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NEW EDITION FOR 1895. 



THE INDEX GOIDE 

To Travel and Art-Study in Europe, 



LAFAYETTE C. L00MI5, A.M., M.D. 

With Plans and Catalogues of the Chief Art Galleries, Maps, Tables of 
Potites, and 160 Illustrations. 



One Volume, Roan Binding, i6mo, 593 Pages, $3.00. 



Part I. — Scenery, Art, Legends, and Myths, including descriptions of places, 
buildings, monuments, works of art, and the historical facts, legends, and 
myths connected with these. 

Part II. — Plans and Catalogues of the Art Galleries of Europe. 

Part III. — Maps, Tables, and Directions for all Leading Routes of Travel. 



" One of the most compact, comprehensive, and exhaustive traveling com- 
panions which has ever been printed.'* — N, Y. Tribune. 

" The whole work is a marvel of compactness, and there is a notable free- 
dom from commonplace remark and needless comment." — Boston Transcript. 

"Most admirable. The little scraps of history and criticisms of eminent 
authors and travelers add largely to the value of the book.'' 

— Inter-Ocean, Chicago. 

" The value of the guide is incontestable. It would be worth purchasing if 
only for the abundant maps of cities, plans of galleries, and charts of railway and 
river routes, to say nothing of the art illustrations."— X. Y. Evening Post. 

'* If Americans are wise hereafter, instead of taking their ' Murray, 1 or 
' Baedeker,' or ' Harper/ they will carry their ' Loomis. ; Certainly nothing we 
have ever seen in the way of a guide-book tells so fully, and in a way so easily to 
be got at, just what the American sight-seer in Europe wants, as this Index 
Guide." — Cincinnati Commercial. 

" This work is thorough and comprehensive, and supplies in a compact form 
an amount of information that would seem incredible to one who has not looked 
through its pages. It is one of the best books for the intelligent traveler who 
goes to Europe, not merely for sight-seeing, but to study and enjoy its great 
works of art and the notable events in its historv."— Boston Post. 



CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS, 153-157 Fifth Aye., New York. 









J-IBHA 













LlY 




A HANDBOOK 

TO 

THE JAPANESE EMPIRE. 



Advertisements. 



THE 



EQUITABLE 

Jfife Jpstftitq SntichJ nf ilic IliiiUit Slates. 

HEAD EA-STER^T OFFICE - - - SHANGHAI. 






4 
-^j|N 1S73 the Equitable Society issued Policy No. 78,061 for $1,000. 

This polic}' was a Twenty-year Endowment, with a twenty-year 
Tontine period. Hence it matured last year. The total amount 
paid in premiums was $953.60. The cash surrender value of the Assur- 
ance (payable to the policy-holder himself during his own lifetime) was 
$1,597.04. This is a return of all the premiums paid, with interest on the 
same at the rate of 6-J per cent, per annum. 

All 20 years Endowment Policies issued by the Society show a return 
of over 6 per cent, per annum. Here follow a few examples : — 

Total amount paid in Cash surrender. Mate of inr 
f Policy. Amonni of Policy, prem. in 20 years. value in 1893. terest realised. 

$4,949.00 S8.224.45 6*% 

4,768.00 7,985.20 6F/o 

i ? 907.oo 3194.08 6t% 

4,782.00 8,002.85 61% 

1,941.20 3,237.34 Qi% 

bs . . $169,066,396 | Income . . $42,022,605 | Surplus . . $32,366,750 

Paid to Policy Holders during the year 1893 $ 17,650,315 

Paid to Policy Holders since organization $192,572,734 

For additioual examples and explanations, or to effect Assurances, 
apply to any of the Society's Agents. 

W. M. STRACHAN & Co., Agents, Yokohama and Kobe. 
TAKATA & Co., Agents, Tokyo and Osaka. 
HOLME, RINGER & Co., Agents, Nagasaki. 
SHEWAN & Co., Agents, Hongkong and Canton. 
THE BORNEO Co., Agents, Singapore. 

J. T. HAMILTON, Manager for the East. 



77,7^3 


So. 000 


78,620 


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-2.044 


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\sw nit/ fit r n r-ferrea J 



i , JoYm 

A 

HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 

IN 

JAPAN 



BY 

BASIL HALL CHAMBERLAIN 

EMEBITUS PROFESSOR OF JAPANESE AND PHILOLOGY IN THE IMPERIAL UNIVERSITY 

OF JAPAN 

AND 

W. B. MASON 

LATE OF THE IMPERIAL JAPANESE DEPARTMENT OF COMMUNICATIONS 



88Kt|) £toenti?^si): iHaps an& JSlans auto Numerous illustrations 



FOURTH EDITION REVISED AND AUGMENTED 



NEW YORK 
CHARLES SCRIBXER'S SONS 

LONDON: JOHN MURRAY 

YOKOHAMA > „ „ „ ( HONGKONG 

SHANGHAI / KELLY * WALSH ' LIMITED \ SI.NGAPOKE 

ToKYo : K. OGAWA, HIYOSHI-CHO 

{All Eights Reserved) 



3)SEos 



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7BESTED BY THE '' SHUEISHA," ETOBASHI-KTJ NISHI XC^7YA-CHO 
TOKYO JAPAN 



Tra«n>sie* 
Army War Colt** 
June 20 19SS 



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PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. 



Since the publication of the previous edition of the Japan 
Handbook in 1891, the compilers have again travelled over 
almost every portion of the country, from Yezo to Loochoo. 
They now submit to the reader a text largely re-written and 
thoroughly revised to date, fifteen new Eoutes in which the 
whole Empire is for the first time included, greatly improved 
maps and plans, and numerous illustrations. 

Grateful acknowledgments are due to numerous kind 
friends, more especially to Eev. Walter Weston for revising 
the Mountain Eoutes 28 and 30, and to Lafcadio Hearn, Esq., 
for the material of Eoute 48. 

Corrections or suggestions will be welcome at any time. 
Tokyo, May 1st, 1894. 



CONTENTS, 



INTRODUCTION. 



1. General ; Books on Japan ; 
Maps 

2. Steam Communication .... 

3. Custom-House 

4. Public Holidays 

5. Treaty Limits ; Passports. . 

6. Guides 

7. Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks . . 

8. Currency 

9. Weights and Measures 

10. Inns; Travelling Expenses 

11. Climate ; Dress ; Time of 
Visit 

12. Provisions 

13. Means of Locomotion ; 
Luggage 

14. Where to Go and What to 
See 



Page. Page. 

15. Purchases; Objects of Art. . 13 

16. Shipment of Goods 14 

17. Shooting 14 

18. Fishing 15 

19. Miscellaneous Hints 16 

20. Language 18 

21. The Shinto Religion 32 

22. Ryobu Shinto 34 

23. Japanese Buddhism 35 

24. List of Gods and God- 
desses 39 

25. Christian Mission Stations 50 

26. Outline of Japanese His- 
tory 51 

27. Celebrated Personages 53 

28. Population of the Chief 
Cities 68 

12 29. Outline Tours 68 



10 



10 



ROUTES. 
Section I. — Eastern Japan. 



Route. 
1. 
2. 
3. 
4. 
5. 



Page. Route. 



Page. 



Yokohama 75 

Excursions from Yokohama 77 
From Yokohama to Tokyo . 86 

Tokyo 87 

Excursions from Tokyo . . 116 

6. Miyanoshita and Hakone. . 122 

7. The Peninsula of Izu 133 

8. Vries Island 138 

9. Fuji and Neighbourhood . . 140 
10. Takasaki-Karuizawa Rail- 
way 148 

Karuizawa and Asama- 

yama 150 

Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neigh- 
bourhood 153 

13. The Ryomo Railway 159 

14. Nikko and Neighbourhood . 161 

15. From Nikko to Ikao by the 
Valley of the Watarase- 
gawa 178 



11 



12 



16. From Nikko to Ikao over 
the Konsei-toge 180 

17. Trips in the Provinces of 
Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa, 

and Boshu 182 

The Shiobara District 194 

Bandai-san 196 

From Inawashiro to Yone- 
zawa via Bandai-san and 

the Hibara-toge 198 

From Inawashiro or Waka- 
matsu to Nikko by the 
Valley of the Kinugawa . . 199 
From Niigata to Waka- 

matsu 200 

From Niigata to Ikao by 
the Mikuni-toge 201 

24. From Koriyama through 
the Province of Iwaki to 
Taira and Mito 202 



18. 
19. 
20. 



21. 



22. 



23. 



Vlll. 



Contents. 



Section II. — Central Japan. 



Route. 



Page. Route. 



Page. 



25. Karuizawa-Naoetsu Rail- 
way and Niigata. Island 

of Sado 205 

26. Ways to and from Kofu . . 213 

27. Valley of the Hayakawa . . 224 

28. Mountains between the 
Fujikawa and the Tenryu- 
gawa 226 



29. Rapids of the Tenryu-gawa 230 

30. Mountains of Hida and 
Etchu 232 

31. The Potteries of Seto 244 

32. The Shrines of Ise 245 

33. The West Coast from Tsu- 
ruga to Naoetsu 257 



Section III. — Eoutes Connecting Tokyo and Kyoto. 

34. The Tokaido 263 I 36. The Steamer Voyage from 

35. The Nakasendo 277 | Yokohama to Kobe 282 

Section IV. — Western Japan and the Inland Sea. 



37. Kobe and Neighbourhood . . 287 

38. Osaka and Neighbourhood . 292 

39. Kyoto and Neighbourhood . 297 

40. Lake Biwa 328 

41. Nara and Neighbourhood. . 333 

42. Through Yamato to Koya- 
san and Wakayama in 
Kishu 341 

43. Through Kumano to Ise . . 359 

44. Minor Itineraries in the 
Province of Kishu 369 



45. From Kyoto to Ama-no- 

Hashidate on the Sea of 
Japan 370 

46. From Himeji to Miyazu . . 371 

47. Matsue and the Temples of 
Izumo 373 

48. The Oki Islands 375 

49. The Island of Awaji 377 

50. The Inland Sea and Chief 
Places on and near its 
Northern Shore 382 



Section V. — The Island of Shikoku. 



51. North-Eastern Shikoku .. 395 

52. North-Western Shikoku . . 400 

53. Valley of the Yoshino-gawa 404 



54. Western Shikoku from Ma- 
tsuyama to Uwajima .... 408 

55. Kochi and Ways thither . . 409 



Section VI. — Kyushu and Outlying Islands. 



56. Nagasaki and Neighbour- 

hood 413 

57. Excursions from Nagasaki . 419 

58. The Shimabara Peninsula.. 420 

59. Through North - Western 
Kyushu by Rail and Road. 425 

60. The Yabakei Valley 431 

61. North-Eastern Kyushu and 

across Country to Kuma- 
moto 433 

62. Aso-san 437 



63. From Kumamoto to Nobe- 
oka and Oita. By the South- 
East Coast to Kagoshima.. 438 

64. Kagoshima 440 

65. From Kagoshima to Kuma- 
moto via the Rapids of the 
Kumagawa. Kirishima . . 443 

66. The Loochoo Islands 445 

67. The Goto Islands and Tsu- 
shima. Fusan, Gensau, 
and Vladivostock 447 



Contents. 



IX* 



Section VII. — Northekn Japan. 



Route. Page. 

68. The Northern Eailway 451 

69. Matsushima and Kinkwa- 
zan 461 

70. The North-East Coast 466 

71. From Yonezawa by the 
Miomote Valley to Mura- 
kami on the N.W. Coast 
and to Tsuru-ga-oka 467 



Route. Page. 

72. From Sendai to Yamagata 
and Yonezawa 469 

73. From Sendai to Tsuru-ga- 
oka, Sakata, Honjo, and 
Akita 470 

74. Ways to Akita 472 

75. From Akita to Aomori .... 474 

76. Lake Towada 476 



Section VIII. — The Island of Yezo. 



77. Hakodate and Neighbour- 
hood 479 

78. Excursions from Hakodate. 481 

79. From Hakodate to Fuku- 
yama 483 

80. From Hakodate to Esashi . 484 

GLOSSAEY 

INDEX 

ERRATA AND ADDENDA 



81. Otaru, Sapporo, Hokkaido 
Eailway, and YolcanoBay.. 485 

82. The South-East Coast and 
the Southern Kuriles .... 488 

83. From Kushiro to Abashiri 
and Northern Yezo 489 

.. 491 

497 

529 







MAPS AND PLANS. 



1. Japan in pocket of cover. 

2. Key to Sectional Maps to face title-page. 

3. Shinto Temple of Izumo to face p. 33 

4. Buddhist Temple of Ikegami ,, p. 37 

5. Eastern Japan ,, p. 73 

6. Neighbourhood of Yokohama ,, p. 75 

7. Chief Sights of Tokyo „ p. 87 

8. Temples and Tombs of Shiba on p. 94 

9. Tokyo and Neighbourhood to face p. 116 

10. Miyanoshita and Hakone ,, p. 123 

11. Fuji and the Hakone District „ p. 140 

12. Ikao and Kusatsu „ p. 153 

13. Nikko „ p. 161 

14. Nikko Temples across p. 162 

15. Central Japan to face p. 203 

16. Kofu „ p. 213 

17. Geku Temple at Ise on p. 252 

18. Western Japan and the Inland Sea to face p. 285 

19. Osaka and Kobe „ . p. 2S7 

20. Kyoto ,, p. 297 

21. Kyushu ,, p. 411 

22. Neighbourhood of Nagasaki ,, p. 413 

23. Kumamoto Castle on p. 428 

24. Northern Japan to face p. 449 

25. Matsushima „ p. 461 

26. Southwestern Yezo ,, p. 477 



Via Canada to Japan. 



The shortest and most enjoyable 
way from Europe to Japan is by 
the Canadian Pacific Eailway Com- 
pany's Line (commonly known as 
the C. P. R.), which lies wholly in 
British territory. The journey from 
Liverpool to Yokohama by this 
route can be accomplished in less 
than four weeks, as against the six 
weeks occupied in the alternative 
eastward route via Suez and Hong- 
kong. If six weeks be taken for it 
the traveller may visit all the chief 
Canadian cities, besides enjoying the 
wonderful scenery of the Rockies 
and neighbouring ranges at his 
leisure. 

Expenses. — First-class rates from 
Liverpool or Southampton to Yoko- 
hama range between £60 and £70, 
according to the Atlantic Line and 
accommodation selected. 

Via Allan Line to Halifax 

in winter, and via the 

Gulf of and River St. 

Lawrence to Quebec and 

Montreal in summer ; 

thence Canadian Pacific 

Railway £68.3.5 

Return Fare £109.12.6 

Via Dominion Line, same 

routes £66.7.5 

Return Fare £107.12.6 

Via Beaver Line, same 

routes £61.7.5 

Return Fare £98.2.6 

Via White Star, American, 

or Cunard Lines to New 

York, thence via Mon- 
treal or Niagara Falls 

and Toronto, and the 

Canadian Pacific Rail- 
way £69.3.7 

Return Fare £111.13.7 

Besides the above, there is a 
charge of $20 for accommodation in 
the Sleeping Car from Montreal to 
Vancouver— an indispensable item 
— a charge of 75 cents per meal on 



the dining cars, and there will pro- 
bably be a day's hotel expenses at 
Montreal varying from $3 to $5. 
The hotels in Canada are conducted 
on what is called the " American 
plan," the guest being charged a 
fixed sum per diem, irrespective of 
what meals he may take, the only 
' extras being wines and liquors. 

Money. — The currency of Canada 
\ is based upon the decimal system ; 
one English halfpenny equals one 
cent. Silver coins are in 5 cent, 10 
cent, 25 cent, and 50 cent pieces, 
and 100 cents equal one dollar. 
English sovereigns pass current for 
$4.86, and United States gold in 5, 
10, or 20 dollar pieces pass at par. 
1 Bank and Government notes are 
for one, two, four, five, ten, twenty, 
fifty, one hundred, five hundred, and 
| one thousand dollars. United States 
silver and notes pass at par in most 
Canadian towns and cities, but in a 
| few small towns discount is charged. 
The chief banks are the Bank 
of Montreal, Bank of Commerce, 
I Bank of Toronto, Merchants' Bank, 
I Imperial Bank, Traders' Bank, 
Bank of Hamilton, Molson's Bank, 
Bank of Nova Scotia, and Union 
Bank. Canadian Bank and Govern- 
ment notes are subjected to a small 
discount in the United States, while 
the silver passes at par in most 
places along the frontier. 

Clothing. — Warm elothiog and 

wraps are needed on the Atlantic 
: and Pacific at all times of the year. 
Somewhat lighter garb may suffice 
even in winter for the hotels and 
! " cars," which are heated through- 
j out in a manner surprising to those 
whose experiences are of the Old 
j World only. There is no "dressing" 
on the cars ; but on board the Cana- 
dian Pacific, as on most large Allan 
, mail steamers, it is usual for gentle- 
' men to appear in a black coat at 
i dinner. 



[ II ] 



The voyage across the Atlantic is 
too well known to need description 
here. Those desiring information 
can obtain it at any of the C. P. R's 
Agencies in Great Britain, viz : — 

London, 67 and 68, King William 
Street, E.C. 

Liverpool, 7, James Street. 
Manchester, 105, Market Street. 
Glasgow, 67, St. Vincent Street. 

There is a large choice of steam- 
ship lines, so that the traveller may 
please himself in the matter of 
landing on the American continent 
at Quebec, Montreal, Halifax, Bos- 
ton, or New York. In any case, one 
ticket purchasable in Great Britain 
covers the whole distance from 
Liverpool to Japan. Montreal 
should be regarded by the Japan - 
bound traveller as the starting-point 
of his land journey, for it is at 
Montreal that the trans-continental 
train is made up. 

Quebec. — Those desirous of " do- 
ing " Canada properly and travelling 
by way of the Gulf of St. Lawrence 
are, however, strongly advised to 
stop a day at Quebec, the only 
walled city on the American con- 
tinent, the city most rich in his- 
torical associations, and the most 
splendidly situated. The steamers 
from Liverpool to Montreal touch at 
Quebec to disembark passengers, 
who can proceed to Montreal later 
on by train, for which their through 
ticket from Europe is available. In 
anticipation of the early establish- 
ment of a fast Atlantic service in 
connection with the Canadian Paci- 
fic ^ Railway, a large hotel, the 
Chateau Frontenac, has been erec- 
ted at Quebec, and is now open to 
guests. The hotel is built, near the 
famous Citadel, on Dufferin Terrace, 
from which a magnificent view is 
obtained. 

Quebec was founded by Champlain in 
1608, taken by the English in 1629, and 
restored to France in 1632. Struggles to 
regain possession of the city were main- 
tained at intervals for over a hundred 
years, until it fell into the hands of the 
English in 1759, when both Wolfe and 



Montcalm, with whose memories the 
place is indissolubly associated, died in the 
final attack. The population of Quebec 
which at that time numbered less than 
5,00; i, has risen to 70,000, of whom even at 
this day only some 6,000 are not of French 
extraction. Another name held in loving 
remembrance by the inhabitants is that 
of Lord Dufferin, for some years Governor 
General of Canada. 

The best way to spend a day at 
Quebec is first to walk out on the 
Dufferin Terrace in order to enjoy 
the splendid panorama of the 
city, River St. Lawrence, and the 
Laurentian Hills beyond (or they 
can be viewed from the windows of 
the Chateau Frontenac), and then to 
engage a carriage to make the round 
of such sights as the Roman Catholic 
Cathedral, Parliament Buildings, 
the Plains of Abraham, etc. ; not 
forgetting the fur-stores, and, in the 
afternoon the Montmorenci Falls 
and the "Natural Steps" of the 
Montmorenci River situated some 
8 miles from the city. The crosses 
by the wayside, and the generally 
old-fashioned provincial French as- 
pect of all around is very notice- 
able, and there are many points, 
buildings, and relics of historical 
record that are worth seeing. The 
Falls can also be reached by rail- 
way, as also can the famous shrine 
of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, a few miles 
beyond, which is yearly visited by 
hundreds of thousands. 

Montreal (Hotels, Windsor Hotel, 
St. Lawrence Hall, Queen's, Bal- 
moral Hotel), the chief city of 
Canada (pop., with suburbs, 300,000), 
and its greatest shipping port, be- 
ing at the head of ocean navigation, 
although over 200 miles from salt 
water and about 150 miles from 
tide-water, is situated on an island 
formed by the Rivers St. Lawrence 
and Ottawa. 

It stands on the site of the ancient 
Indian village of Hochelaga, visited by 
the celebrated French explorer Jacques 
Cartier as long ago as 1535. Montreal was 
the last place surrendered by the French 
to the English in 1760, and the French 
language is still extensively used. 

The city has a commanding share 
of the trade of Canada and the 



[ III ] 



Great Lakes, handsome public build- ' 
ings, and a general air of prosperity 
and refinement. Cabs are cheap 
and numerous, and there is an effi- 
cient electric car service. The best 
view of Montreal is obtained either 
from Mount Royal, the mountain 
which gives its name to the city — 
a short drive or walk — or from the 
tower of the great parish church of 
Notre Dame which can be ascended 
in an elevator. The visitor will 
likewise be attracted by the gigantic 
new Roman Catholic Cathedral of 
St. Peter, one third the size of St. 
Peter's at Rome, on the plan of 
which it is constructed. The num- 
ber of other churches and nunneries 
is very great. Of secular educa- 
tional institutions, the most interest- 
ing is the McGill University. Among 
large public buildings, may be men- 
tioned the Windsor Street Station 
of the Canadian Pacific Railway, 
overlooking a handsome public 
square and within two minutes 
walk of the Windsor Hotel. A re- 
cent writer, in suggesting Montreal 
as an ideal holiday resort, sums up 
thus : — Snow-shoeing, tobogganing, 
skating, curling, and sleighing make 
Montreal a delight in the winter ; all 
the joys pertaining to river, moun- 
tain, and forest and glorious climate 
make it a paradise in summer. 

The Railway Joueney Across 
the Continent. 

The conscruction of the C. P. E. may- 
be said to have been begun in 1881, when 
the Company was organized and took 
over the colossal enterprise from the 
hands of the Government. In less than 
five years— at the close of 1885— the line 
extended from Quebec and Montreal to 
the Pacific Ocean, and in the following- 
year the vast system was in complete and 
successful wo. king order. 

The Trans-continental train leaves 
Montreal every evening. To the 
Englishman, accustomed to short 
railway trips, it is a new sensation 
to find himself embarked on a jour- 
ney of five nights and nearly as 
many days, covering a stretch of 
over 2,900 miles. The sleeping car 
is not only a means of transit : it is 



a hotel pro tern, in which he can 
retire comfortably to bed at night 
and perform his ablutions in the 
morning ; thrice daily, excellent 
meals are served in the dining-cars, 
named Balmoral, Sandringham, 
Holyrood, Frogmore, and so on, 
after European palaces, while the 
sleeping cars, which are used as 
drawing-rooms by day and dormi- 
tories by night, for the most part 
bear prophetically some such name 
as Yokohama, Tokyo, Fujiyama, 
or Nagoya, as if to familiarise him 
with the place-names of the coun- 
try whither he is bound. 

Most travellers will find the 
general sleeping car accommoda- 
tion — one berth — amply sufficient. 
Those desiring extra luxury may, 
by double payment, secure double 
room both by night and day (what 
is termed a " Section "), or, if they 
have a party, they may ensure ab- 
solute privacy by engaging the 
" State-room." These arrangements 
should be made before leaving 
Montreal. 

The first place of importance 
passed after quitting Montreal is 

Ottawa (Hotels, Russell House, 
Grand Union, Vv'indsor), pop. -8,000, 
the official capital of the Dominion 
of Canada, and an important centre 
of the lumber trade, the Chaudiere 
Falls, which here interrupt the 
navigation of the Ottawa River, 
affording water-power for a host of 
saw-rnills and other manufactories. 
It is picturesquely situated at the 
junction of the Rivers Ottawa and 
Rideau, opposite the mouth of the 
Gatineau, the Gothic towers and 
pinnacles of the Houses of Parlia- 
ment and other Government build- 
ings crowning the cliffs that over- 
hang the running water. Rideau 
Hall, the residence of the Governor- 
General is two miles distant. Trans- 
continental passengers wishing to 
see Ottawa, even superficially, must 
stay over there, as the train runs 
through it at midnight. They can, 
however, leave Montreal by an early 
train, spend part of tbe day in Ottawa 



[ iv ] 



and join the Trans-continental or 
Pacific express at night. On leaving 
Ottawa . we gradually pass beyond the 
old-settled French colony into newer 
lands where Anglo-Saxon energy 
reigns supreme, Scotch settlers be- 
ing particularly numerous and suc- 
cessful as farmers. During the 

First Day of the Trans-continen- 
tal journey, we at first keep the Otta- 
wa River with us, passing through 
Pembroke and Mattawa, an old 
fur-trading post of the Hudson's 
Bay Company, now a favourite cen- 
tre for moose hunters, and fisher- 
men. Here guides and supplies 
for shooting and fishing expeditions 
can always be obtained, as also at 
North Bay, a couple of hours fur- 
ther on, on the- shores of Lake 
Nipissing. This beautiful sheet of 
water, 40 miles long by 10 miles wide 
is but the largest of a succession of 
lakes which form the characteristic ! 
feature of this first day of the jour- 
ney ; and in October the whole 
country-side glows with brightest 
autumnal hues. Passengers travel- 
ling by way of Niagara Falls or 
Toronto will here join the Trans- • 
continental express. At Sudbury, 
a new-1 eking town planted in the 
forest, we find a branch line of rail- 
way leading to Sault Ste. Marie at 
the eastern extremity of Lake Supe- 
rior. Here it connects with two 
American lines extending to Duluth 
and to St. Paul and Minneapolis, 
and on till it rejoins the Trans- 
contirental route near Moosejaw in 
the Canadian North-West, convey- 
ing vast quantities of flour and grain 
on their way to the Atlantic sea- 
board. Within a few miles of Sud- 
bury itself, and reached by two short 
railway lines, are the most extensive 
copper and nickel deposits known 
in the world. To those travelling 
westward, darkness sooner or later, 
according to the season, shrouds 
the fine river and lake scenery 
between Onaping and Biscotasing. 
The traveller must be content to wait 
till next morning, which is the 
Second, or Lake Superior Day of 



his journey. He will rise early 
to enjoy the w T hole scene from 
Heron Bay and Peninsula onwards. 
The line has been forced through 
and around the bold, harsh promon- 
tories of Lake Superior by means of 
tunnels, and viaducts, and deep 
cuttings in the red and grey rock ; 
and the vistas of islands, and of the 
grand sweep of Lake Superior, which 
is here about 100 miles wide, are 
delightful, those portions called 
Jackfish Bay and Nepigon Bay being 
specially striking. The Biver Ne- 
pigon, which empties into Lake Su- 
perior, is noted the world over for 
the great size of its speckled trout. 
Indeed, all the streams in this part 
of the country deserve the sports- 
man's attention. 

Fort William, on Lake Superior 
(Hotel, Ft. William Hotel, pop. 
2.800), which is reached in the 
early afternoon of the second day, 
is the terminus of the eastern 
division of the C. P. B. Those who 
prefer the water to the land, or who 
take Toronto and Niagara en route, 
may in summer (May to November 
inclusive) thread their way through 
the great lakes, on one of the C. P. 
E. magnificent lake steamers, from 
Owen Sound on Georgian Bay (Lake 
Huron) — a voyage of somewhat less 
than two days — and join the rail- 
way here. At Fort William, des- 
tined from its position to become 
ere long an immense city, the 
traveller will begin to realise the 
magnitude of the wheat and lumber 
trade of the Great North- West, 
when he beholds the piers and the 
wharves crowded with shipping, and 
the immense grain elevators, some 
of which hold as much as 1,500,000 
bushels each. Ee-entering the train, 
we find that the clocks have been 
put back an hour, making it appear 
as if we re-started before we had 
! arrived ! For the purpose of reckon- 
ing time, Canada is divided, at 
intervals of 15 degrees of longitude, 
into four districts, in each of which 
the clock is one hour slower than in 
that to the east of it. There is 



[ V ] 



Eastern Time (5 hours slow of 
Greenwich) east of Fort William. 

Central Time (6 hours slow of 
Greenwich) from Fort William to 
Brandon. 

Mountain Time (7 hours slow of 
Greenwich) from Brandon to 
Donald. 

Pacific Time (8 hours slow of 
Greenwich) from Donald to Van- 
couver and Victoria. 

Furthermore, at all the C. P. R. 
Stations west of Fort William, the 
11 24 Hour System " is in use. By 
this system, the terms A.M. and 
P.M. are abolished, and the hours 
from noon to midnight are called 
13, 14, and so on up to 24 o'clock. 

The third day of the journey 
may be called the Prairie Pay, 
as a great stretch of the vast prairie 
will be traversed on that day, There 
is charming lake and woodland scen- 
ery from the station of Eagle Biver 
on to Bat Portage and Keewatin. 

Rat Portage (pop. 2,000) is a 
town of some importance at the 
principal outlet of the Lake of the 
Woods, a lovely body of water, with 
bays and quiet reaches, and dotted 
with countless islands — a very mirror j 
of peace and seclusion from the 
world. 

It was through, the rough and broken-: 
country stretching from Fort William to 
Winnipeg (or Fort Garry, as it was then 
called), a distance of 500 miles by the 
Winnipeg river, that General Wolseley led ; 
an armed expedition of over 1,500 men to 
suppress a rebellion of the half-breed 
French-Indians on the Eed River in the | 
year 1870, nsing the more or less connected 
lakes and rivers much of the way. 

Beyond Whitemouth tbe country 
gradually flattens out, and becomes 
as level as a billiard table before the 
train reaches 

Winnipeg: (Hotels, Manitoba, 
Clarendon, Leland, and Queen's), 
situated at the junction of the Red 
River and the Assiniboine, with 
railways radiating in every direction 
like the spokes of a wheel. Win- 
nipeg naturally commands the 
trade of the whole North-West, 
whence doubtless the magic growth 
which, in a little over two decades, 



has converted the insignificant 
village of about 200 inhabitants 
into a bustling city of 32,000, who 
boast public buildings on a grand 
scale and every convenience of 
modern civilization. Winnipeg, in 
fact, is the type of a go-ahead, 
successful, western city. The eye 
is caught in all directions by 
advertisements in various languages 
pointing out to immigrants the 
facilities for buying land in the as 
yet thinly peopled surrounding 
country. Winnipeg is the point of 
junction with the Canadian Pacific 
Railway of trains from Chicago, St. 
Paul, Minneapolis, and other western 
cities of the United States. The 
whole of the day is spent in speeding 
along over flat land mostly devoted 
to the cultivation of grain. 

Brandon (pop. 5,400) is the largest 
grain market in Manitoba, itself the 
greatest grain-producing province 
of the Dominion. 

Begina (pop, 2,200), capital of the 
North-West Territories, which com- 
prise the districts of Assiniboia, 
Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Atha- 
basca, is reached in the afternoon. 
Here a branch line extends away to 
the Saskatchewan country in the 
north. From Regina west is, per- 
haps, to a stranger the most novel and 
interesting part of the whole journey 
hitherto. The people themselves look 
different. Indians are to be seen at 
some of the railway stations as we 
pass through, and here and there 
the red coats and spurred boots of 
the North- West Mounted Police, 
whose business it is to look after the 
Indians and preserve order general- 
ly. The approach of the train scares 
flocks of "prairie chickens " (a de- 
licate game bird) to flight ; and 
11 coyotes," " gophers," and oc- 
casionally antelopes scamper off as 
: hard as they can tear over the 
buffalo grass that tufts the dry soil. 
Of buffaloes there now remain, 
alas ! but the bones. Wanton 
slaughter has exterminated this 
noble breed, and large oblong piles 
of whitening heads and horns and 



[ VI ] 



other bones form a unique feature 
at several of the stations. But 
though the buffaloes are no more, 
their tracks still intersect the plain 
in countless numbers, showing the 
way the herds took to and from the 
watering places. At Pasqua, thirty- 
three miles west of Regina, the line 
from Sault Ste Marie, Michigan, 
which connects at that point with 
the Canadian Pacific Railway's 
Sault Ste Marie branch from Sud- 
bury, and which runs via St. Paul 
and Minneapolis through Minnesota 
and Dakota, rejoins the main line 
of the Canadian Pacific Railway. 
From time to time little lakes are 
passed, some of them alive with 
swans, geese, ducks, and pelican ; 
and arid as the soil looks, much of 
it has been found to be excellently 
rich, needing only irrigation and 
care to make it bear abundant 
harvests. Other parts, however, are 
better adapted for rearing horses 
and cattle. Though apparently so 
flat on either side of the railway, 
the hills occasionally seen in the 
distance betoken a general gradual 
rise in the land. 

Medicine Hat,— a town of 1,000 
inhabitants, stands at an elevation 
of over 2,000 feet. From here on- 
wards, in the summer time, the 
country presents the aspect of a 
billowy ocean of grass. By early 
rising, we should get our first 
view of the Rocky Mountains from 
Gleichen. 

Calgary is reached in the early 
morning. It is a typically pro- 
gressive place, now dignified by the 
name of "city" — the first one in 
the Territories — and stands at an 
elevation of 3,300 feet. Its popula- 
tion is 4,500. Having discarded the 
dining car which accompanied us 
across the plains, we breakfast here 
in the first of the model restaurants 
which the Canadian Pacific Rail- 
way Co. has erected in the moun- 
tain section. From Calgary a 
branch line extends South to near 
the international boundary line 
through the ranching country, and 



| another North for about 200 miles 

I into what has been proved to be 
the best mixed farming country on 

| the North American continent. 
The Fourth or Rocky Mountain 
Day is partly spent in this justly 

i celebrated range, whose extraordin- 
arily jagged formation will prepare 
the traveller to appreciate the truth 
of Japanese and Chinese representa- 
tions of mountain scenery deemed 

, by many exaggerated. After the 
long journey across the plains, what 
a relief to mind as well as body are 
the crisp air, the rushing water, 
and the heaven-soaring peaks that 

j accompany us from now onwards 
to the Pacific Coast, as we rush 
in succession through the Rockies, 
the Selkirks, the Gold Range, and 
the Cascade Range ! The gap by 
which the railway enters the 
mountains, occurs just beyond the 
station of Kananaskis ; and soon 
after, at Canmorc, an " observa- 
tion car " is attached to the train, 
so that travellers may enjo}- an 
unobstructed view of the countless 
Castles of Nature. Soon we pass 
through Anthracite, noted for its 
coal mines, and arrive at 

Banff Hot Spring's (C. P. R. 
Hotel), which is the best place on 
the whole line at which to break 

j the journey. 

Banff stands at a height of 4,500 feet. 

\ Its charming situation, surrounded as the 

village is by mountains, recalls the Tyro- 

! lean or Austrian Alps, and the numerous 

. drives and excursions in the neighbour- 

; hood point it out as an excellent summer 

holiday resort. The warm springs form 

a natural bath in a cave not far from the 

hotel. The stretch of country, 26 miles 

long by 10 miles wide, in which Banff 

lies, has been made into a "National 

Park." 

It being impossible in this brief 
sketch to describe in detail the 
beauties of this part of the journey, 
which crow T d upon the eye every 
moment of the day, we must refer 
the traveller to the " Annotated 
Time Table " published by the C. 
P. R. Company. 

Lsiggan (4,930 ft.), 1 hour beyond 
Banff, is the station for the "Lakes 



[ VII ] 



in the Clouds." Ponies and vehicles 
are here in waiting for tourists in- 
tending to visit these picturesque 
and interesting lakes. Lake Louise, 
which is the first, lies about three 
miles from the station and 600 ft. 
above the railway and is easily 
reached. On the margin of this 
beautiful lake there is a comfortable 
Chalet hotel where parties take lun- 
cheon, and where, if any desire to 
stay over, beds can be obtained. 
A guide can be engaged if required 
for excursions from this point. 
There is a bridle path to Mirror 
Lake higher up the mountain ; and 
the still further ascent to Lake 
Agnes — a short distance — is done 
on foot. These mountain lakes 
afford a very pleasant and inexpen- 
sive day's outing for those who 
remain over at Banff. The summit 
of the Eockies is reached soon after 
at Stephen (5,296 ft.), and then 
begins the precipitous descent along 
the bank of the Kickiug-Horse 
Eiver, where, until the feat had been 
accomplished, it would have seemed 
almost incredible that a line of 
railway could be made to cling so 
securely to such dizzy glacier-o'er- 
shadowed heights. The easy but 
serpentine passage of this portion 
of the road is always an object of 
interest to the occupants of the 
train. Fishermen might like to 
stay at Field, where there is an ex- 
cellent Chalet Hotel operated by 
the C. P. E. Co. The passage of the 
Eockies terminates at the small 
mining town of Golden, situated on 
the Eiver Columbia, in a Swiss- 
looking valley, with the Selkirk 
Range, which the train now has to 
climb, beyond. Notice the great 
trees, — spruce, Douglas fir, and 
cedars — on this range, of which 
Mounts Sir Donald and Hermit 
are the highest peaks. It is on this 
portion of the line that are seen 
the perfect arrangements that have 
been made for rendering innocuous 
any snow-slides that may from 
time to time occur. Exactly op- 
posite Mount Sir Donald is another 



of the C. P. R. Co.'s Chalet Hotels 
which, like the others, is a model of 
convenience and comfort. It is 
well-patronized by sportsmen and 
by tourists, the former using it as 
a starting-point for expeditions 
after the mountain sheep, the 
mountain goat, etc., and the 
latter taking advantage of its com- 
fortable accommodation to enjoy 
the beauty of the surrounding 
scenery and to make excursions in 
the mountains or to the Great 
Glacier of the Selkirks, the foot of 
which is within a mile of the hotel. 
The Asulkan and Dawson glaciers 
are not far away. Both are of 
enormous size, and the former is 
easily accessible, but the Dawson, 
resting in a deep and narrow gorge, 
has as yet been explored by few. 
From Selkirk Summit (4,300 ft.), we 
pass down the valley of the Illicilli- 
waet where the line is built in a 
series of extraordinary curves, 
called "the Loop," doubling upon 
itself again and again. About 22 
miles beyond the Glacier House is 
the Albert Canon, a remarkable 
gorge through which the foaming 
waters of the Illicilliwaet river ever 
rush in a narrow channel. The 
train stops here for a few minutes 

■. to allow passengers to alight, and 
view the gorge from the summit of 
its confining rock. 
Hevelstoke stands in a good 

: sporting country at the western base 
of the Selkirks, and not far from the 

■ eastern base of the Gold Range. 
I This is one of the grandest portions 

of the whole journey, the passage 
down the Thompson Canon being 
one continuous series of delightful 

■ surprises. From Eevelstoke, a 
! Branch railway runs down to the 

! head of the Upper Arrow Lakes and 
; around to New Denver, in the heart 
J of the mining regions ; and steamers 
I ply on the Arrow lakes to Eobson. 

The Fifth or Fraser Canon Day 
i makes a glorious termination to the 
i journey across the great Western 
| Continent. The Canon begins 4 
I miles beyond North Bend, where a 



[ VIII ] 



stop is made for breakfast at an- 
other of the C. P. R. Chalet Hotels, 
a house similar in appearance and 
excellence to those at Field and the 
Great Glacier, — a good point from 
which to make excursions to the 
celebrated Canons of the Fraser 
river. From this point on for 23 
miles to the station of Yale, the 
austere grandeur of the scene passes 
the power of words to describe ; the 
dark frowning rocV;, the great 
trees, the rushing river far below, 
the sense of mystery and of power 
forming a whole that is almost 
overwhelming. No better prepara- 
tion (by way of contrast) can be 
imagined for those about to plunge 
into the Capua of Japan, than the 
unapproachably severe magnificence 
of the Fraser River Valley, which 
seems like some grand moral lesson 
translated into terms of scenery. 
After the station of Hope, where we 
descend to an altitude of only 200 
feet above sea-level, many small 
towns are passed. West Coast In- 
dians differing individually from 
those of the plains may be seen 
from time to time, also Chinamen 
in considerable numbers, who are 
emplo}*ed as navvies on the line or 
gain their living as miners, washer- 
men, cooks, etc. All this part of the 
country was formerly famous for 
the immense size of its trees, and 
occasional specimens are still to be 
seen surviving the ruthless waste of 
the early settlers. The Fraser here 
becomes a wide, stately river ; but 
there is beauty on its banks the 
whole way to the Coast, and Mt. 
Baker, a cone 13,000 feet in height 
constantly greets our gaze. The 
train reaches Vancouver soon after 
midday on the Fifth Day, and the 
long but by no means tedious jour- 
ney is at an end. 

Vancouver (Hotel Vancouver, 
operated by the C. P. R. Co., Manor 



House, etc.,) founded in 1886, has 
; already a population of 20,000, and 
is the starting-point of the C. P. R. 
steamships that cross the Pacific to 
Honolulu, Australia, Japan, and 
China, the sailings to the Anti- 
podes being monthly, and to 
Asiatic ports every three weeks 
' in summer and monthly in winter. 
The mountains and the sea com- 
bine to make for it a charm- 
ing entourage. None should fail to 
drive out to Stanley Park to see the 
giant trees of which British Colum- 
bians are so proud. Those staying 
a few days in this neighbourhood 
should also visit the city of Victoria 
the capital of the Province, on the 
| southern extremity of Vancouver 
Island (Hotel Driard), 6 hours dis- 
; taut by steamer through the island- 
'. dotted waters of the Straits of Geor- 
' gia. EsGinmaali, three miles east 
of Victoria and connected with it 
by an electric railway, is the head- 
quarters of the British navy on the 
North Pacific Coast. The Japan 
steamers frcrn Vancouver touch at 
Victoria to pick up such passengers 
as may prefer to embark at the 
latter place. The steamers do not 
proceed farther than the mouth of 
the harbour, the passengers being 
brought off by a tender. The last 
stage of the journey is the 4,300 
miles of Pacific Ocean that lie be- 
tween Vancouver and Yokohama. 
It takes from 10 to 13 days to per- 
form it ; but with the magnificent 
White Empresses of the Canadian 
Pacific's staunch fleet, the crossing 
of the Western ocean is robbed of 
all the unpleasantness and incon- 
venience of an ordinary sea vo} T age. 
The three Empresses — of India, of 
China, and of Japan — are each of 
6,000 tons burthen, with 10,000 
horse-power, have a speed of 
19 knots, and are without rivals on 
the Pacific. 



Handbook for Travellers 



JAPAN. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Page. 

1. General ; Books on Japan ; 15. 
Maps 1 16. 

2. Stearo. Communication .... 2 17. 

3. Custom-House 3 IS. 

4. Public Holidays 3 19. 

5. Treaty Limits ; Passports . . 3 20. 

6. Guides 5 21. 

7. Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks. . 5 j 22. 

8. Currency 5 ' 23. 

9. Weights and Measures 6 21, 

10. Inns ; Travelling Expenses . 7 

11. Climate ; Dress ; Time of 25. 
Visit 8 26, 

12. Provisions 10 

13. Means of Locomotion ; I 27. 
Luggage 10 23, 

14. Where to Go and What to 

See 12 29, 



Page. 

Purchases ; Objects of Art . . 13 

Shipment of Goods 14 

Shooting 14 

Fishing 15 

Miscellaneous Hints 16 

Language 18 

The Shinto Religion 32 

Kyobu Shinto 34 

Japanese Buddhism 35 

List of Gods and God- 
desses 39 

Christian Mission Stations.. 50 
Outline of Japanese His- 
tory 51 

Celebrated Personages .... 53 
Population of the Chief 

Cities 68 

Outline Tours 68 



1. — General; Books on Japan; Maps. 

Japan, secluded for over two centuries from contact with the outer 
world, was burst open by the American expedition in 1853-4 under the 
command of Commodore Perry. Making a virtue of necessity, her rulers 
soon determined to Europeanise the country as the best means of pre- 
serving its independence. Ships were bought, foreign naval and military 
instructors engaged, feudalism replaced by a centralised autocracy, 
education re-organised on the pattern offered by Western nations, posts, 
telegraphs, and railways introduced, European dress, European manners, 
European amusements adopted, Buddhism disestablished, Christianity — 
if not encouraged — at least no longer persecuted. In short, in every 
sphere of activity the old order gave way to the new. But even Japan, 



2 Introduction: — Steam Communication. 

great as is the power of imitation and assimilation possessed by her 
people, has not been able completely to transform her whole material, men- 
tal, and social being within the limits of a single lifetime. Fortunately for 
the curious observer, she continues in a state of transition, — less Japanese 
and more European day by day, it is true, but still retaining characteristics 
of her own, especially in the dress, manners, and beliefs of the lower 
classes. Those who wish to see as much as possible of the old order of 
things should come quickly. 

It is impossible within the limits of this Introduction to enter into those 
details of rice, history, customs, religion, art, literature, etc., which, com- 
bined with the influence exercised more recently by Europe and America, 
have made Japan what she is to-day. The traveller who desires to travel 
intelligently — to do more than merely wander from hotel to hotel — may 
be referred for a summary of such information to a small work entitled 
Tilings Japanese^ where, if he wishes for still more, he will find references 
to the original authorities in each special branch. Of religion alone, a 
short sketch seemed indispensable, as the temples are among Japan's 
chief sights ; an outline of history and lists of gods and celebrated per- 
sonages have been added, in order to assist the traveller to thread his way 
through the maze of proper names with w T hich he will be confronted. In 
Japan, more than in any European country, is it necessary to take some 
trouble in order to master such preliminary information. For whereas 
England, Fi-ance, Italy, Germany, and the rest, all resemble each other 
in their maiu features, because all have alike grown up in a culture 
fundamentally identical, this is not the case with Japan. He, therefore, 
who should essay to travel without having learnt a word concerning 
Japan's past, would run the risk of forming opinions ludicrously 
erroneous. We would also specially recommend Griffis's Mikado's Em- 
pire and Eein's Japan and The Industries of Japan, as books which it 
would be profitable to read on the way out. Rein's works are, it is true, 
fitted only for the serious student, who is prepared for hard words and 
technical details ; but The Mikado's Empire is calculated to appeal to all 
classes of readers. Of books on Japanese art, Anderson's Pictorial Arts 
of Japan is by far the best. We may perhaps also mention Huish's 
more handy Japan and its Art. Morse's Japanese Homes is an excellent 
description, not only of the dwellings of the people, but of all the articles 
belonging to their daily life. Lafcadio Hearn, in his Glimpses of Unfamil- 
iar Japan, treats with intimate knowledge and sympathy of their man- 
ners, customs, and beliefs. 

The elaborate series of maps now in course of publication at the 
Imperial Geological Office may be obtained of Messrs. Kelly and Walsh 
at Yokohama. 

2. — Steam Communication. 

Japan may be reached by the Canadian Pacific Company's steamers 
from Vancouver in 14 days; by the Pacific Mail or the Occidental and 
Oriental Company's steamers from San Francisco in about 16 days, or 18 
days if Honolulu be touched at ; by the Northern Pacific Company's steam- 
ers from Tacoma in about 15 days ; or else from Europe through the Suez 
Canal by the Peninsular and Oriental steamers from London or Brindisi ; 
by the Messa^eries Maritimes from Marseilles, and by the Norddeutscher 
Lloyd from Bremerhaven, Southampton, or Genoa in about 40 days. 
There are also outside steamers from London, notably those of the " Glen " 
and " Shire " Lines. Yokohama is the connecting port of all the above. 



Custom- House. Public Holidays. Treaty Limits. Passports. 3 

The principal Japanese Company is the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha 
(Japan Mail Steamship Company), which runs steamers from Yokohama 
almost daily to Kobe, weekly to Nagasaki and Shanghai, every third day 
to Hakodate and Otaru ; from Kobe weekly to Sakai, Tsuruga, Niigata, 
and Hakodate, occupying altogether about six weeks on the round trip ; 
also at longer intervals to the Loochoo and Bonin Islands. The Com- 
pany also runs frequent steamers to the principal Korean and Chinese 
ports and to Vladivostock in Siberia, also occasional steamers to Manila, 
Honolulu, and Australia. Numerous smaller companies run steamers to 
the Inland Sea ports and other points on the coast, and also on some of 
the larger rivers and lakes. 

Boats — known in the Treaty Ports as sampans — ply in all the har- 
oours, and land passengers from the steamers. The usual fare from ship 
to shore, or vice versa, is from 10 to 20 sen per head. Hotel boats are in 
attendance at the larger places. 

3. — Custom-House. 

Strict examination of the luggage of passengers is made at the 
Custom-House, and the best way to avoid trouble and delay is to open 
up everything freely. Cameras, sporting gear, most special apparatus, and 
many other articles, but not ordinary personal effects, are liable to duty. 

4. — Public Holidays. 

The Custom-House and other public offices observe the following 

holidays : — 

Jan. 1] 
,, 3 -New Year Holidays (Shogicatsu) . 

o) 
,, 30. Anniversary of death of Komei Tenno, the late Emperor. 
Feb. 11. Accession of Jimmu Tenno in 660 B.C., and Promulgation 

of Constitution in 1889, (Kigen-setsic). 
Mar. 20. Spring Equinox (Shunki Korci-sai). 
April 3. Death of Jimmu Tenno. 
Sept. 23. Autumn Equinox (Shuki Eorei-sai). 
Oct. 17. Harvest Thanksgiving to the Deities of Ise (Sliinjo-sai, also 

called Kan-name Matswri). 
Nov. 3. Mikado's Birthday (Tenclio-setsu). 
,, 23. Second Harvest Festival (Shinjo-sai, or Nii-name Matsuri). 

The foreign banks, besides observing Christmas, New Year, and some 
of the Japanese holidays, keep the Chinese New Year, the German Em- 
peror's birthday on the 27th January, the Queen's birthday, and the 
American and French national anniversaries. 

5. — Treaty Limits ; Passports. 

Foreigners* have the right to reside without passports in the Foreign 
Settlements at the " Open Ports " (also called " Treaty Ports ") of Yoko- 

* " Foreigners " Map. gwaikokiijin or ijin) is the word universally employed in 
Japan to denote all persons of Caucasian race. It will sound odd to new-comers to 
hear Englishmen speaking of themselves as " foreigners," " we foreigners." 



4 Introduction: — Treaty Limits. Passports. 

hama, Kobe, Osaka, Nagasaki, Hakodate, and Niigata, and to travel to 
any place within a radius of 10 ri 9 that is nearly 24J miles, from those 
ports. Travelling West from Yokohama, the last place on the Tokaido 
Railway to which one may go without a passport is Kozu. Tokyo, though 
not property an Open Port, may be visited without a passport, as may 
also its immediate neighbourhood ; and the night may be spent at any of 
the foreign hotels, or at a friend's house, without let or hindrance. 

Passports for visiting other portions of Japan may be obtained by 
tourists and all others not in Japanese employ by personal application 
to the authorities of the country to which they belong, these officials 
obtaining them from the Japanese Foreign Office. Thus, Englishmen 
must apply through the British Consulate at Tokyo, Yokohama, or other 
Treaty Port (the British Legation is not the proper channel for such applica- 
tions), Americans through the United States Legation in Tokyo or any of the 
American Consulates. Applications sent from abroad are not entertained 
by the British authorities. The American Legation, while permitting 
such applications, requires proof of citizenship from the applicant. Two 
or more names may be included in the same application, if it is desired 
to obtain a single passport for two or more persons, for instance, a husband 
and wife with their children. Every application should state the time 
for which the passport is desired, three months being the maximum 
usually granted. It is also desirable to state that the journey is intended 
"for the benefit of my health," or "for scientific purposes." Foreign 
employes must apply through their Japanese employers. Persons wishing 
to travel at the close of the year should bear in mind that no applications 
for passports are entertained by the Foreign Office between the 25th 
December and 4th January inclusive. British subjects are mulcted by 
their Consuls in the sum of $2 per passport, while Americans obtain 
theirs for a few cents. Three or four days generally elapse between the 
application for a passport and its delivery. 

The Hakone-Miyanoshita-Atami district forms an exception to this 
rule. Passports for it can be obtained within a few minutes at the Kenclio 
(Prefecture) or at the Consulates in Yokohama, on payment of a small fee. 
A similar rule holds good at Kobe with regard to passports for the Kyoto - 
2Tara and Lake Biwa district, and at Nagasaki for the baths of Ureshino 
and Takeo. It will often be found highly convenient to avail of one of 
these lesser passports while waiting for the more extensive one. 

The Japanese authorities generally insist on being exactly informed 
of the route the traveller purposes taking. He is therefore advised to 
make out his application with some minuteness, mentioning as many 
routes and places on each route as possible. This he can best do, either 
by copyiDg portions of the headings and names of the chief places in the 
itineraries given at the beginning of each Route in this volume, or be- 
taking counsel with some resident friend. After all, he is not obliged to- 
visit every place on his programme, which had therefore better err on the 
side of over-fulness than on that of scantiness. A list of so-called Fixed 
Routes has been issued by the British authorities, and copied with a 
few improvements by the American authorities (see Section 29). The 
term Fixed Routes does not imply that travel is in any way restricted 
to the routes in question. The arrangement is meant only to save trouble 
to applicants as well as to the Consuls. The "Thirteen Provinces round 
Fuji " (Fuji-mi Ju-san-shii ) form a favourite, including much of the 
loveliest scenery in Japan. A list of their names is given on the margin 
of the General Map which accompanies this work. 



Guides. Posts. Telegraphs. Banks. Currency. 5 

6. — Guides. 

Guides understanding English can be procured of the Guides' Asso- 
ciation (Kaiyusha) at Yokohama and Kobe, with branches at Tokyo and 
Kyoto. Apply at any of the hotels. The fixed charge at present (1894) 
is advertised as follows : — " Two dollars per day for a party of one or two 
tourists ; over two, 25 cents added for each tourist. In all cases the 
guide's travelling expenses must be paid by his employer, except his 
hotel expenses." 

A guide is an absolute necessity to persons unacquainted with 
the language. Those knowing a little Japanese may feel themselves 
more their own masters by hiring a man-servant, or " boy," also able to 
cook, and having neither objection to performing menial functions, nor 
opinions of his own as to the route which it will be best to take. 

7. — Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks. 

The Imperial Japanese Post and Telegraph services are excellent. 
Letters and papers can be forwarded with perfect safety to the different 
stages of a journey. The Post-Office Order system is thoroughly efficient, 
and will be found useful by travellers who wish to avoid carrying about 
much money. 

In most towns of any size, the Post and Telegraph Offices are com- 
bined. Telegrams in any of the principal European languages cost 5 
cents per word, with a minimum charge of 25 cents, addresses being 
charged for. A telegram in Japanese of 10 Kana characters costs 15 
cents, addresses not being charged for, and the foreign residents therefore 
often avail themselves of this means of communication. Telephone Ex- 
changes have been established in some of the larger towns. 

There are at Yokohama, Kobe, and Nagasaki branches or agencies of 
the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, the Chartered Bank of India, Austra- 
lia, and China, and the National Bank of China. 

8. — Currency. 

The values are decimal, with the yen, or silver dollar, as the unit. 
One yen contains 100 sen or cents ; one sen contains 10 rin. The currency 
consists of gold which is practically never seen ; of silver pieces of 1 yen, 
50 sen, 20 sen, 10 sen, and 5 sen ; of nickel pieces of 5 sen ; of copper 
pieces of 2 sen, 1 sen, 5 rin, and 1 rin besides others issued during feudal 
days representing 1J rin, 8 rin (these are oblong pieces called tempo, now 
rarely seen), etc. ; and of paper money worth 20 sen, 50 sen, 1 yen, 5 yen, 
10 yen, and various larger sums. Mexican silver dollars can be passed 
only at the Treaty Ports. 

It is best to travel with paper money, both because of its superior 
portability, and because it is better known to the inhabitants of the 
interior than the silver yen. One of the first things the tourist should do 
is to learn the difference between the various notes for the values 
above-mentioned. He is advised to take with him no notes of a higher 
denomination than 10 yen, as it is often difficult to get change except in 
in the big towns. ^ ■ ■ 



Introduction: — Weights and Measures. 



9. — Weights and Measures. 

Distances are reckoned by ri and chd, 36 chd going to the ri* One 
ri is equal to 2.44 English statute miles, or, roughly speaking, to a trifle 
under 2£ miles. One chd is equal to 358 English feet, or -^ of a mile. 
The chd is subdivided into 60 ken (1 ken—6 ft. approximately), and the 
ken into 6 shako, (1 shaku=l ft. approximately). The subdivisions of the 
shaku follow the decimal system. Throughout this work, the distances 
are given in ri and chd as well as in miles, as visitors to Japan drop 
very soon into the Japanese method of reckoning, which indeed must 
be learnt in any case, as coolies, jinriMsha-men, and others know nothing 
of English miles. A word of caution may here be given against the habit 
of certain Japanese having a superficial knowledge of English, who 
mistranslate the world ri by " miles." The following table, borrowed 
from Dr. Whitney's Dictionary of Roads, Toicns, and Tillages of Japan, 
will be found useful : — 



EQUIVALENTS OF JAPANESE SI AND CHO IN ENGLISH MILES. 


Japanese Ri. 





1 


2 


3 


4 


5 


6 


7 


S 


9 




Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


1 


2.44 


24.40 


26.84 


29.28 


31.72 


34.16 


36.60 


39.04 


41.49 


43.93 


46.37 


2 


4.88 


48.81 


51.25 


53. 69 


56.13 


58.57 


61.01 


63.45 


65.89 


6S.3S 


70.77 


3 


7.32 


73.20 


75.65 


7S.09 


80.53 


82.97 


85.41 


87.85 


90.29 


92.73 


95.17 


4 


9.76 


97.61 


100.05 


102.49 


104.93 


107.37 


109.81 


112.25 


114.69 


117.13 


119.58 


5 


12.20 


122.01 


124.46 


126.90 


129.34 


131.78 


134.21 


136.66 


139.10 


141.54 


143. 9S 


6 


14.R4 


146.43 


148.87 


151.31 


153.75 


156.19 


158.63 


161.07 


163.51 


165.95 


168.39 


7 


17.08 


170.S3 


178.27 


175.71 


178.15 


1S0.59 


183.03 


185.47 


187.91 


190.35 


192.79 


8 


19.52 


195.23 


197.67 


200.11 


202.55 


205.00 


207.44 


209.S8 


212.32 


214.76 


217.20 


9 


21.96 


219.64 


222.0b 


224.52 


226.96 


2*9.40 


231.84 


234.28 


236.72 


239.16 


241.60 


Chd 


Miles 


Chd 


Miles 


Chd 


Miles 


Chd 


Miles 


Chd 


Miles 


Chd 


Miles 


1 


0.07 


7 


0.47 


13 


0.88 


19 


1.29 


25 


1.69 


31 


2.10 


2 


0.14 


S 


0.54 


14 


0.95 


20 


1.36 


26 


1.76 


32 


2.17 


3 


0.20 


9 


0.61 


15 


1.02 


21 


1.42 


27 


1.83 


33 


2.24 


4 


0.27 


10 


0.68 


16 


1.08 


22 


1.49 


28 


1 .90 


34 


2.3D 


5 


0.3-1 


11 


0.75 


17 


1.15 


23 


1.56 


29 


1.97 


35 


2.37 


6 


0.41 


12 


0.81 


IS 


1.22 


24 


1.63 


30 


2.03 


36 


2.44 



Long Measure (Kane). 10 bu=l sun (often translated " inch," but= 
1.19 inches of English measure); 10 sun—1 shaku; 6 shaku—1 ken ; 10 
sliaku=ljd. The jo, equal to about 10 English feet, is the unit employed 
in measuring heights and depths. 

Cloth Measure (Kujira). 10 bu==lsun; 10 stin—1 shaku, or nearly 
12 inches ; 10 shaku=l jo. In this measure, the shaku is 4 longer than 
in Long Measure. 

Land Measure (Tsubo). The unit is the tsubo, nearly equivalent to 4 
square yards English. An acre is nearly equivalent to 1,210 tsubo. 

1 cho -2 J acres, and 1 ri (square) =6 sq. miles, approximately. 

Measure of Capacity. 10 go— 1 slid, which contains about 103J cubic 
inches, and is a little larger than 1£ quart; 10 shd=l ro, nearly half a 

* Some mountain districts have a longer ri of 50 cho. 



Inns. Travelling Expenses. 7 

bushel, or, for liquids, 4 gallons ; 10 to=l koku, which is a fraction less 
than 5 English bushels. 

Weights. The kin is about 1J lb. avoirdupois ; 1 lb. avoir. =about 120 
momme. The kwan is equal to 1,000 momme (6J kin or a little over 8J lbs.). 

10. — Inns ; Travelling Expenses. 

The inns are given from personal knowledge or from the best 
accessible authorities, an asterisk being sometimes prefixed to the name 
of a house specially worthy of mention. What is termed hatago at a 
Japanese inn includes supper, bed, and breakfast, for which a single 
charge is usually made. This varies in different parts of the country ; at 
present it ranges from 25 sen to 75 sen per head. Anything in the way 
of food or liquor ordered in addition to the meals supplied has to be paid 
for separately. There is no charge for firing, lighting, attendance, or 
bath, provided always the traveller is content with what is given to every 
one else, neither is there any for tea. But it is usual, shortly after 
arriving and being shown into a room, or in paying one's account just 
before leaving, to make a present, known as chadai or " tea-money." 
The latter course is recommended. With Japanese travellers, this 
tea-money varies with the rank of the individual, the amount of extra 
attention which he desires or has received, and with the quality of the 
accommodation. Generally they are very liberal. The foreign tourist 
is on a somewhat different footing, and there are seldom gradations of 
rank to be considered in his case. As a fair and practical solution of 
a vexed question, those who travel a lajaponaise and who are charged 
in accordance with the native scale, may be recommended to make the 
amount of their chadai vary from 25 sen to 50 sen per night. Therefore, 
for a single night's entertainment, the cost — hatago and chadai included 
— may be put down at from 50 cents to §1.25. If two or more persons 
are travelling together, the chadai is increased say to one-half more for 
two, and double for three persons. In some parts, especially at bathing 
resorts, there is a fixed rate for accommodation only, the food being 
charged for separately according to order. In such places, it is usual to 
make a present for distribution amongst the servants in addition to the 
chadai, whereas in the ordinary inns such presents are not looked for. 

It is but fair that foreigners should pay more than natives, both for 
accommodation and for jinrikishas. They usually weigh more, they 
almost always want to travel more quickly, they give infinitely more 
trouble at an inn with their demands for separate rooms, fresh water in 
the bath, the occupation of a portion of the kitchen to cook their 
European food in, and a dozen other such requirements, to say nothing 
of the necessity under which the host lies of reporting their presence to 
the police. 

In the Europeanised hotels at such frequented spots as Nikko, 
Kamakura, Miyanoshita, Kyoto, Nagoya, etc., the general charge is from 
$2.50 to §3.50 a day, everything included except wines. Tho charges 
at the hotels under foreign management in the Open Ports are generally 
slightly higher. The charge per diem for a native servant is about 
50 sen a day. The average charge (to foreigners) for jinrikishas in the 
most frequented portions of the country is now (189^) from 10 to 15 sen 
per 77, the same per hour, and §1 per diem, — for sightseeing in the cities 
about 80 sen per diem. About 50 per cent, is added to these rates in bad 
weather -and at night. But the tendency of late years has been towards 



8 Introduction: — Luis. Climate. Dress. 

constantly increased rates, owing to the rise in the price of rice and other 
staple commodities. It is usual to give a small gratuity (sakate) to 
jinrikisha-men after a hard run of any distance. 

Perhaps one might say that the total cost to a traveller of average 
requirements, travelling at a reasonable speed, and having with him a 
native servant, should not exceed $8 per diem. If he restricts himself to 
mountainous districts, the expense will be considerably less. A certain 
saving is also effected when two or three persons travel together. 

It will be seen from the above that the hostelries at which travellers 
in Japan put up are of three kinds, — the European hotel, the Euro- 
peanised or half-European half- Japanese hotel (hoteru), and the purely 
native inn (yadoya). The ryori-ya, or restaurant, supplies meals with 
less delay than the regular inns, but offers no sleeping accommodation. 
The tea-house (chaya) is different again, being a place where people 
neither sleep nor dine, but only halt for a short time to rest and take 
slight refreshment. Residents in Japan, however, often include inns 
under the denomination of tea-houses. Every little railway station has 
its tea-house which undertakes to purchase the traveller's ticket and 
check his luggage. 

The best style of Japanese inn is now generally supplied with a few 
chairs and tables ; or if there are none in the house, some can be brought 
in from the school or the police-station hard by, where they are de 
rigueur. Beds are still rare ; but good quilts (futon) are laid down on 
the mats, wherever may be most convenient ; a smaller quilt will be 
rolled into a pillow, and in summer a mosquito-net will be provided. No 
inn in native style has a dining-room. Each guest dines in his own 
apartment at whatever time he (or more often the host) may select. 

It is a common Japanese custom to carry letters of introduction (a?i- 
nai-jo) from inn to inn. This has advantages, especially in seasons of 
epidemic disease or under any other circumstances liable to cause the 
traveller to be viewed with suspicion, or when, for the purposes of any 
special investigation, he wishes to be brought into intimate relations 
with his hosts along the road. Many inns keep printed forms of 
annai-jo which they fill in with the traveller's name. Occasionally these, 
and the little paper slips in which toothpicks are wrapped up, as also 
the fans or towels which it is still the custom in many places to present 
on departure to those guests who have given a suitable cliadai, are charm- 
ing specimens of Japanese taste in small matters of every-day life. 

11. — Climate ; Dkess ; Time of Visit. 

Remember that Japan is not in the tropics, and bring warm clothing 
with you, whatever be the season of your visit ; also very light 
clothing, if your visit be in the summer. Even in July, when the mean 
temperature of Tokyo is about 76° Fahrenheit, days may come when you 
will be glad of all your winter things. This applies still more to the 
mountains. On the other hand, be more careful of exposure to the sun 
than you would be in England. A sun helmet and a white umbrella are 
useful additions to the traveller's wardrobe. 

Though garments of the roughest description will suffice for the 
country districts, bring good clothes, such as might be worn at home, in 
which to appear at the larger hotels, and to mix, if need be, in society, 
whether Japanese or foreign. The Japanese authorities now attend their 
offices in frock or morning coats, and Europeans visiting them should be 



Climate. Dress. Time of Visit. 9 

similarly attired. At a few of the highest social functions, frock-coats 
and tall hats are de rigueur. With regard to boots, it is advisable to 
wear such as can be pulled of! and on easily, as it is necessary 
to remove one's boots every time one enters a house or temple, in 
order not to soil the mats on which the Japanese sit. Grave of- 
fence is given, and naturally given, by the disregard of this 
cleanly custom. Light shoes or boots with elastic sides are therefore to 
be preferred, except for mountain work. If your boots give out, try the 
native straw sandals (icaraji) with the native sock (tabi), which give a 
better foothold than boots on smooth rocks. Many foreigners have found 
them excellent foot-gear, the only addition required being a small piece of 
cotton-wool to prevent chafing by the thong which passes between the 
great and second toes. Boots barely holding together can be made to 
last a day or two longer by tying icaraji underneath them. Kanjiki, that 
is, iron clamps of triangular shape with spikes, are often fastened below 
the icaraji for walking over snow. The native blue cotton gaiters called 
kyahan afford excellent protection against the attacks of flies, and from, 
the rank undergrowth so often found on the lower slopes of Japanese 
mountains. 

At Yokohama, Chinese tailors attend the hotels, and will fit out 
travellers literally between a night and a morning with duck, crape, and 
other light clothing. Washing is expeditiously done at the Open Ports 
and at the principal summer resorts. 

Roughly speaking, the Japanese summer is hot and occasionally 
wet ; September and the first half of October much wetter ; the late 
autumn and early winter cool, comparatively dry, and delightful ; February 
and March disagreeable, with occasional snow and dirty weather, which, 
is all the more keenly felt in Japanese inns devoid of fire-places ; the late 
spring rainy and windy, with beautiful days interspersed. But different 
years vary greatly from each other. The average temperature of January, 
which is the coldest month, is between 36° and 37° Fahrenheit at Tokyo ; 
but there are frequent frosts at night during five months of the year, 
namely, from November to March inclusive. Skatiug is rare in Tokyo. 
The average temperature of August is 78°, and the thermometer some- 
times registers over 90°. The climate of Northern Japan from Sendai 
onwards is much colder in winter, though not appreciably cooler during 
July and August. A similar remark applies even more forcibly to the 
entire West coast, which is exposed to the icy winds that blow direct from 
Siberia. Kishu, Southern Shikoku, and Southern Kyushu are warmer all 
the year round. 

Each traveller must judge for himself from the above remarks which 
season to select for his tour. If possible, he should be either in Tokyo 
or in Kyoto during the first half of April to see the lovely display of 
cherry-blossoms, which are followed throughout the early summer by 
other flowers — peonies, azaleas, wistarias, irises — well-worth seeing both 
for their own sake and for that of the picturesque crowds of Japanese 
sight-seers whom they attract. If not able to visit Kyoto early in April, 
he should try to be there at the end of October or early in November, 
when the autumn leaves are in all their glory of red and gold. Tokyo is 
less favoured in this respect, but the chrysanthemums there early in 
November are magnificent. The summer may most advantageously be 
devoted to Nikko, to Mij^anoshita, Arima, Unzen, or other mineral bath 
resorts, or else to travelling in Yezo and in the high mountainous districts 
of the interior of the Main Island, which are practically inaccessible 



10 Introduction : — Provisions. 

except between June and October. Fuji is only ascended during the 
hottest period of summer. 

12. — Provisions. 

Except at a few of the larger towns and favourite hill or sea-side 
resorts, meat, bread, and the other forms of European food are unknown. 
Even chickens are but rarely to be obtained ; for though plenty may be 
seen in almost every village, the people object to sell them — partly be- 
cause they keep them for the sake of their eggs, partly on account of a 
lingering Buddhist dislike to taking life. Those, therefore, who cannot 
live on the native fare of rice, eggs, and fish (this, too, not to be counted 
on in the mountains), should carry their own supplies with them. Wines, 
spirits, and cigars are equally unobtainable ; but beer is to be met with 
in most tow T ns, the Kirin Beer brewed at Yokohama being excellent. It 
is advisable to take one or two knives, forks, spoons, a corkscrew, a 
tin-opener, and the most elementary cooking utensils. Plates and 
glasses can be borrowed almost everywhere. Persons fairly easy 
to please and who wish to travel lightly, can reduce the size of their pro- 
vision basket by using the rice, fish, and eggs of the country as auxiliary 
to what they carry with them. Curry-powder will often help to make 
insipid Japanese dishes palatable, and shoyu (soy) adds a zest to soups. 
When starting off for the first time, it is best to err on the side of taking 
too much. Many who view Japanese food hopefully from a distance, 
have found their spirits sink and their tempers embittered when brought 
face to face with its unsatisfying actuality. 

Milk may now sometimes be obtained at the towns aloug the Tokaido, 
Nakasendo, and other chief highways, but should not be counted on. 
The yolk of an egg beaten up is considered by many to be a good sub- 
stitute for it in tea or coffee. It is essential to avoid all water into which 
rice-fields may have drained. In the plains, water should be filtered and 
boiled before drinking. 

The following Japanese articles of food are considered palatable by 
most foreigners : 

Kasuteira, sponge-cake. 

Miso-sliiru, bean-soup. 

Sakana no shio-yaki, broiled fish. 

Sakana no tempura, fish fritter. 

Sake, a strong liquor made from rice and generally taken hot. 

Sembei, thin biscuits of various kinds. 

Tamago-yaki, a sort of omelette. 

Tori-nabc, chicken cut up small and stewed. 

Uslii-nabe, beef similarly treated. 

Unagi-mcslhi, layers of rice with eels done in soy. 

Yokan, sweet-bean paste. 

13. — Means of Locomotion ; Luggage. 

Take the railway wherever available. On those plains which no 
railway yet traverses, take a jinrikisha. Avoid the native basha 
(carriage), if you have either nerves to shatter or bones to shake, and 
be very chary of burdening yourself with a horse and saddle of your 
own in the interior, as all sorts of troubles are apt to arise with regard 
to shoeing, run-away grooms (betto), etc. Such, in a few words, is 



Means of Locomotion. Luggage. 11 

our advice, founded on long personal experience. Other possible con- 
veyances are pack-horses (but the Japanese pack-saddle is torture), cows, 
the kago — a species of small palanquin, uncomfortable at first, but not dis- 
liked by many old residents, — and lastly chairs borne by four coolies ; but 
these have only recently been introduced from China, and are not found 
except at Miyanoshita, Nikko, and a very few other places much resorted 
to by foreigners. The pleasantest sort of trip for a healthy man is that in 
which walking and jinrikisha-riding are combined. In the hilly districts 
which make Japan so picturesque, walking is the only possible, or at least 
the only pleasant, method of progression. The luggage is then taken on 
a pack-horse or on a coolie's back. 

Persons intending to go at all off the beaten tracks are advised to 
compress their luggage within narrow limits. This is specially neces- 
sary in the thinly populated mountainous parts of the country, where 
one coolie — not improbably a grandfather superannuated from regular 
work, or possibly a buxom lass, — is often the sole means of transport that a 
village can supply, all the horses being generally with their masters miles 
away in the mountains. 

It is always best to avoid large boxes and portmanteaus, and to divide 
the luggage into two or three smaller pieces for convenience in piling on 
a coolie's hod, or for balancing the two sides of a pack-horse's load. The 
Japanese wicker baskets called yanagi-gori are much recommended, as 
cheap, portable, capacious, and contractable. The yanagi-gori (often 
called kori for short) consists of an oblong basket, with a second fitting 
over it to any depth as a cover, and is consequently convenient, not only 
for clothes and books, but for provisions, since the size of the basket can 
be diminished as the stores are consumed, without any empty space 
being left for the remaining articles to rattle about in. A pair of these 
yanagi-gori — one for personal effects, the other for provisions — should 
suffice to him who intends to rough it. They should be provided with a 
large wrapper of oil-paper (abiira-kami) against the rain, and fastened 
either with cords which can be procured anywhere, or with stout leather 
straps. 

As to Japanese roads, no general opinion can be expressed. Some- 
times excellent when first made, they are often kept in insufficient repair. 
Travellers must therefore not be astonished if they come across roads, 
which, though mentioned in this work as good for jinrikishas, have become 
almost impassable even for foot passengers — the result of a single season 
of floods or typhoons. The changes in this respect are in proportion to 
the violence of the Japanese climate. It is furthermore probable that 
the distances given in our itineraries differ slightly in some cases from 
the actual truth, notwithstanding all the care taken to obtain information 
as accurate as possible. It is hoped, however, that such discrepancies 
will never be so great as seriously to affect the traveller's plans. An 
apparent error of J mile will occasionally be observed in the total mileage 
of the itineraries. This arises from the fact that, the mileage of each 
stage of a journey being given only within J mile of the actual distance, 
the fractional errors thus arising, though balanced and allowed for as 
carefully as possible, sometimes unavoidably accumulate. On the other 
hand, the so-called total mileage is obtained, not by adding up the mileage 
column, but by direct calculation (also within J mile) of the value of the 
total in ri and did. 

On the railroads, men desirous of practising economy will find the 
second class quite good enough, and those who wish to make a near 



12 Introduction: — Where to Go and What to See. 

acquaintance with Japanese life will meet in the second class with far more 
subject-matter for their investigations. But ladies are advised to travel 
first class, as smoking is general, and the ways of the Japanese lower 
middle class with regard to clothing, the management of children, and 
other matters, are not altogether as our ways. Some lines provide non- 
smoking second class compartments. There are as yet no sleeping-cars, 
dining-cars, or buffets ; but neat little boxes of Japanese food (bento), tea, 
beer, ice, and cakes are offered for sale at the principal stations by runners 
from the inns. The Railway Regulations permit holders of tickets for 
distances of over 50 miles to break their journey at the more important 
places. Luggage is checked as in the United States, each first-class 
passenger being allowed to carry 100 lbs. and each second-class passenger 
60 lbs. free of charge. 

14. — Where to Go and What to See. 

" How long does it take to do Japan?" is a question often asked. 
If by "doing" Japan, be meant hurrying through its chief sights, the 
globe-trotter can manage this in three or four weeks by adopting one of the 
Outline Tours given in Sec. 29. He who is bent on more serious observ- 
ation will not find four months too much ; and one who has spent that 
time rarely fails to come again. Travellers' tastes differ widely. Some 
come to study a unique civilisation, some come in search of health, some 
to climb volcanoes, others to investigate a special art or industry. 
Those who desire to investigate Buddhist temples will find what they 
want in fullest perfection at Kyoto, at Nara, at Tokyo, and at Nikko. 
The chief shrines of Shinto are at Ise and at Kitsuki in the province 
of Izumo. Those in search of health and comparative coolness during 
the summer months, to be obtained without much " roughing," are 
advised to try Miyanoshita, Nikko, or Ikao in the Tokyo district, Arima 
in the Kobe district, or (if they come from China, and wish to remain as 
near home as possible) Unzen in the Nagasaki district. All the above, 
except Kitsuki, may be safely recommended to ladies. Yezo is specially 
suited for persons residing in Japan proper, and desiring thorough change 
of air. At Hakodate they will get sea-bathing, at Sapporo they will 
get fishing if they go in June or early in July. But Japan is more 
especially the happy hunting-ground of the lover of the picturesque. 
With the symmetrical outlines of its volcanoes, with its fantastic rocks, 
its magnificent timber which somehow, even when growing naturally, 
produces the impression of having been planted for artistic effect, with its 
tiny shrines and quaint hostelries constantly placed so as to command 
vistas that delight the eye, this beautiful land is a fitting abode for 
the most esthetic of modern peoples. Every variety of scenery, from 
the gracefully lovely to the ruggedly grand, is here to be found. Of the 
former character are the neighbourhood of Yokohama (Kamakura, 
Enoshima, Kanazawa), the whole Hakone district, Fuji and its surround- 
ing ring of lakes, Nikko, Haruna, the Inland Sea, the Kiso valley, 
North-Eastern Kyushu, Matsushima in the North of the Main Island, 
and many more. Rugged and sublime in thair character are the Hida- 
Etchu range, Koma-ga-take in Koshu, the whole mass of mountains 
lying between the rivers Fujikawa and Tenryu-gawa, and the district 
near the North-Western coast including Mounts Chokai, Gwassan, and 
Haguro-san. But the travelling amidst these rough mountains is itself 
rough in the extreme. None but thoroughly healthy men, inured to 



Purchases. Objects of Art. 13 

hardship, should attempt it. As for what is called " seeing Japanese 
life," the best plan is to avoid the Foreign Settlements in the Open Ports. 
You will see theatres, wrestling, dancing-girls, and the new Japan of 
European uniforms, political lectures, clubs, colleges, hospitals, and 
Methodist chapels, in the big cities. The old peasant life still continues 
almost unchanged in the districts not opened up by railways. 

15. — Purchases ; Objects of Art. 

Travellers will find the greatest facilities for purchases of every de- 
scription in the large stores of Yokohama and Kobe. They will also find 
much to attract them in Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Nagasaki. The 
names of the best shops are given under each of these towns. Though 
now sometimes sold in large stores, Japanese objects of art are not 
produced in large workshops. In old days, when the test pieces were 
made, few masters employed as many as half a dozen workmen in 
addition to the members of their own family, and clicfs-cVceuvre often 
originated in humble dwellings, where perhaps a single artisan laboured 
in the most primitive style assisted by one or two children. At the 
present day, foreign influence is causing the spread of Western business 
methods, extensive manufactures, and splendidly decked out shop-windows, 
but as yet only in two or three of the larger towns. Even there, the best 
things must often be sought in narrow lanes. It was also formerly, and 
is still to some extent, characteristic of the Japanese tradesman and 
artisan- artist to hesitate to bring out his finest specimens at once. The 
rule is that several visits are necessary before he will display his choicest 
articles, and that even then a long time must be spent in bargaining. A 
few establishments of the more modern sort have fixed prices. This 
remark also applies to the Kivankoba, or bazaars. 

Japan is now almost denuded of old curios. Some have found their 
way into the museums of the country, while priceless collections have 
crossed the sea to Europe and America. But many of the productions 
of the present day are eminently beautiful, more especially the embroid- 
eries and the cloisonne. It is not possible within the limits of a travelling 
Handbook to enter into a disquisition on Japanese art — its origin, its 
characteristics, and the great names that adorn its history. A whole library 
on this subject has come into existence within the last fifteen years, and 
the views of connoisseurs differ widely even on points of prime importance. 
We must content ourselves with mentioning the names of certain art- 
forms unknown in Europe, and for most of which no appropriate English 
equivalents exist. The objects embodying these art-forms will constantly 
come under the traveller's notice if he frequents the curio stores. Such 
are : — 

The Inro, a medicine-box in segments, generally made of lacquer. 
The segments are held together by means of a cord, to one extremity of 
which a Netsuke is often attached. 

The Kakemono or hanging scroll, generally painted, sometimes em- 
broidered. 

The Koto, or incense-burner, generally in bronze or porcelain. 

The Makimono, or scroll, not meant to be hung up. It is used chiefly 
for manuscripts which are often beautifully illustrated. 

The Netsuke, originally a kind of button for the medicine box, pipe- 
case, or tobacco-pouch, carved out of wood or ivory. These little article^ 
have since developed into gems of glyptic art. 



1-1 Introduction : — Shipment of Goods. Shooting. 

The Okimono, a general name for various small ornaments having no 
definite use, but intended to be placed in an alcove or on a cabinet. 

We may also mention various gear appertaining to the Japanese 
sword and often cunningly wrought in metals and alloys, of which 
latter the best known are Shibu-ichi and Shakudo, both formed of a basis 
of copper with varying admixtures of silver and gold. Specially note- 
worthy among these articles are the Tsuba, or guard, and the Menuki, 
small ornaments fixed one on each side of the hilt, and held in place by 
the silk cord which binds together the various parts of the handle. 

16. — Shipment of Goods. 

A reference to the local Directories (or Hong Lists, as they are also 
called) will furnish the names of those firms in Yokohama and Kobe which 
make a business of shipping travellers' purchases to Europe, America, 
and elsewhere. As a rule, too, the foreign firms which deal in curios will 
undertake to forward anything to destination. Remember, when sending 
a box for shipment to a shipping firm, to nail it down but slightly, as it 
will be opened and examined at the Custom-House. The shipping firm 
should be furnished with a detailed list of the contents and their value, 
and be requested to see to the box being secured in a more solid manner 
after examination. 

17. — Shooting. 

The mountainous districts of Japan, especially the Northern portion 
of the Main Island, shelter plenty of deer and boar, while in Yezo many 
bears still remain. Dnck of various kinds, the green pheasant, quail, 
woodcock, snipe, and hares, are to be found in the plains and on the 
lower ranges of hills bordering the flat country, while on somewhat higher 
ground the copper pheasant has its abode in the thickest cover. Hybrids 
between the green pheasant and an imported Chinese species are also 
sometimes met with. The gorgeous golden pheasant is extremely rare. 
Japan, with its rich plains and hills giving ample shelter to game, should 
naturally be a good sporting country. It would be still better, if the law 
protecting birds and animals during the breeding season were consistently 
enforced. Be this as it may, the foreign sportsman labours under 
heavy restrictions. The license which he has to obtain at a 
cost of $10 yearly, only entitles him to shoot whthin a radius of 10 ri 
(2ir\ miles) from the Treaty Ports, and within an irregular boundary of 
less area round Tokyo. But the game having been almost exterminated 
throughout thus area, the majority of resident sportsmen have abandoned 
the field. In the event of existing conditions being replaced by others 
which will allow foreigners to travel and shoot all over Japan, there will 
be excellent sport for one provided with good dogs and not afraid of hard 
walking. Meanwhile, a gun-case is a useless piece of baggage to the 
foreign visitor. 

The shooting season begins on the 15th October, and ends on the 
14th March. Shooting licenses may be obtained at the Treaty Ports 
from the Prefecture (Kenchb). Applications by residents in Tokyo for 
shooting licenses must in the first instance be made by letter to the 
Police Bureau (Kcislii-cho), stating the full name, age, and residence of 
the applicant, who must afterwards take delivery in person of the license 
at the Chief Police Office, on being informed that it has been issued. 



Fishing. 15 

The applicant has to enter into a written engagement to observe certain 
regulations, the violation of which involves the forfeiture of the license 
and the payment of a fine of §10 more. Shooting beyond Treaty Limits 
is strictly prohibited. 

18. — Fishing. 

Locality. Fly-fishing may be said to be confined to that portion of 
the East Coast of Japan, North of Tokyo, where the water is suffi- 
ciently cold for salmon and trout. In Yezo, the river Yurap on 
the East Coast, and the Shiribetsu on the West Coast are recom- 
mended. Both are in season about June. In former years good trout 
fishing was obtainable near Sapporo in the river Toyohira ; but owing 
to the refuse from the flax-mills being allowed to discharge into 
the stream, only few fish now run past it. Most of the other rivers 
of Yezo and of the Northern provinces of the Main Island contain trout. 
The lakes of Yezo also abound in ao-masu and ami-masu, the former a 
pink, the latter a white-fleshed fish. These take the fly greedily, and 
are caught up to 2 lbs. in weight. Near Fukuoka in the province of 
Rikuoku is a good stretch of water, which would probably be best worked 
by staying at ichinohe. Further South, near Furusawa and close to the 
railway, is a fishing river called the Nagagawa, and in the North-West of 
the Main Island the rivers Iwaki and Noshiro are believed to be worth a 
visit. Trout are also found in Lakes Biwa and Chuzenji. Fly-fishers 
may hope for sport during June, July, and the early part of August. 

Fish. There are two classes of sporting fish, — the shake, or salmon 
as known in Europe, and the masu (Salmo japonicus). The shake is a 
full-sized salmon, and ascends the rivers in great quantities during 
autumn and early winter. All the Northern rivers hold these fish, which 
in Yezo are so plentiful that they fall an easy prey to crows and 
bears. Many must weigh as much as 30 lbs. when caught ; but they 
afford no sport to the angler, since, like salmon in other Pacific waters, 
they neither rise to a fly nor run to a spinning bait. At New Year, the 
shops in Tokyo are full of smoked shake that have been sent down from the 
North. Of the masu there are several varieties ; but all are of the trout or 
salmon-trout description, and all are sporting fish. The true masu run 
up the rivers from May to August, the time depending on the temperature 
of the water. These fish are in the best condition at a temperature of 
from 55° to 65 3 . They are not taken below 50°. An 8 lb. fish is a 
large one, the usual size being 5 lbs. or 6 lbs. 

Tackle. Ordinary salmon tackle may be used, with flies of medium 
salmon size and plenty of bright colour, especially orange and yellow. The 
fly is but rarely taken on the surface, and should therefore be well drowned. 
A rod of about 16 ft. is the most convenient, as the fish are strong and 
the pools often large. Wading trousers are useful. Spinning with a 
spoon-bait or a phantom minnow is often successful. In Lake Chuzenji, 
the fish are caught during the summer months by trolling from a boat 
with 60 or 70 yards of line heavily leaded. The bait used is a kind of 
Colorado spoon, and can be obtained from Nakamura, at Kyobashi Ginza 
Itchome in Tokyo, where also Japanese lines can be had to supplement 
the angler's gear for this kind of fishing. 

Accommodation. Except in Yezo, fair accommodation can be had 
almost everywhere. In Yezo one must be prepared for rough quarters, 
and many districts there are quite uninhabited, so that a tent should form 
part of the sportsman's outfit if he is to be free in his movements. 



16 Introduction : — Miscellaneous Hints. 

19. — Miscellaneous Hints. 

Take plenty of flea-powder or camphor ; also, if going off the beaten 
tracks, take soap, candles, and carbolic acid — the latter to counteract 
the unpleasant odours that often disturb the comfort of guests in 
Japanese inns. 

Take towels, a pair of sheets, and a pillow, or at least a pillow-case 
to put on the extemporised pillow r which the tea-house people will arrange. 
Instead of loose sheets, some prefer to sew two sheets together to form 
a bag which is tied round the sleeper's neck. 

Entrust your passport to your guide or servant. This will obviate 
interruptions from police officers at inconvenient hours. 

If your servant seems honest and intelligent, entrust him with money 
for current expenses. This will save a world of petty bother and vexation 
as to change, bargaining, and such matters. 

If you have much money with you, entrust it to the host of each 
respectable hotel you stop at, and get his receipt for it. 

Start early, and do not insist on travelling after dark. You will 
thus most easily obtain good coolies or horses for the day's journey. 
By arriving at your destination before sunset, you will be likely to find 
the bath as yet unused, and will thus avoid the trouble and delay entailed 
by the necessity of having other water heated. You will also have a 
better choice of rooms. 

When planning your day's journey, allow an hour for each ri to be 
done on foot, which should be sufficient to cover stoppages and un- 
avoidable delays. Ten ri (24J miles) is considered by the Japanese a 
proper day's work. 

However inconvenient to yourself, never refuse the coolies' request 
to be allowed to stop for food, as they can do no w r ork on an empty 
stomach. 

The Japanese, whose granclc passion is bathing, use water at higher 
temperatures — 110°-120° Fahrenheit— than physicians in Europe consider 
healthful. No one, however, will be injured by taking baths of between 
100° and 106° Fahrenheit, unless he has a weak heart or is liable to 
congestion. Owing to some unexplained peculiarity of the climate, hot 
baths are found by almost all Europeans in Japan to suit them better 
than cold. It is advisable to pour hot water over the head from time to 
time, and strong persons may advantageously end up with a cold douche. 
The hotter the bath, the greater the impunity with which one may 
afterwards expose oneself to the cold air. The reason why people at home 
have come to entertain the notion that hot baths give a chilly reaction, is 
that they do not take them hot enough, or do not immerse themselves 
up to the neck. The Japanese have the habit, to us disagreeable, of 
getting into the same bath, one after another, or even at the same time ; 
but it is a breach of etiquette to discolour the water by the use of soap. 
They soap themselves outside. The first guest to arrive at an inn has 
the prior right to the bath. Formerly, promiscuous bathing of the sexes 
was common ; but this is now forbidden by the police regulations. 

Massage is much practised in Japan, and is a capital restorative 
from fatigue after mountain climbing. The services of a blind sham- 
pooer {annua sail) may be obtained at almost every inn. 






Miscellaneous Hints. 17 

Never enter a Japanese house with your boots on. The mats take the 
place of our chairs and sofas. What should we say to a man who trod 
on our chairs and sofas with his dirty boots ? 

It is next to impossible to get windows opened at night in Japanese 
inns. The reason is that it is considered unsafe to leave anything 
open on account of thieves, and there is a police regulation to enforce 
closing. 

In the event of trouble arising with regard to accommodation, the 
procuring of coolies, etc., always apply to the police, who are almost in- 
variably polite and serviceable. These officials — for officials they are, 
however small — must not be insulted by the offer of a tip. 

Take visiting cards with you. Japanese with whom you become 
acquainted will often want to exchange cards. 

Above all, be constantly polite and conciliatory in your demeanour 
towards the people. Whereas the lower classes at home are apt to resent 
suave manners, and to imagine that he who addresses them politely 
wishes to deceive them or get something out of them, every Japanese, 
however humble, expects courtesy, being himself courteous. His courtesy, 
however, differs from that of the West in not being specially directed 
towards ladies. 

Many travellers irritate the Japanese by talking and acting as 
if they thought Japan and her customs a sort of peep-show set 
up for foreigners to gape at. Others run counter to native custom, 
and nevertheless expect to get things at native prices. They cannot 
understand why a bill for several dollars should be presented to 
them for ten minutes' dancing, which perhaps after all has not amused 
them. The reason for the high charge is quite simple. Japanese 
do not send for dancing-girls without ordering a dinner at the same 
time. The dancing is an incident of the dinner, and it is in this 
dinner that the tea-house proprietor makes his profit. He does not care 
to have his house invaded at unusual hours by people who take nothing 
for the good of the house ; neither can the dancers get ready on the spur 
of the moment. Too many foreigners, we fear, give not only trouble 
and offence, but just cause for indignation by their disregard of propriety, 
especially in their behaviour towards Japanese women, whose engaging 
manners and naive ways they misinterpret. The subject is too delicate 
to be treated here. We may, however, be permitted to remark in 
passing that the waitresses at any respectable Japanese inn deserve the 
same respectful treatment that is accorded to girls in a similar position 
at home. 

Never show any impatience. You will only get stared at or laughed 
at behind your back, and matters will not move any the quicker in this 
land where an hour more or less is of no account. The word tadaima, 
which the dictionaries, in their simplicity, render by " immediately,'' 
ma}- mean any time between now and Christmas. Storming will not 
mend matters, when you find (to take one instance out of a hundred) that 
your jinrikisha coolies wish to stop for a meal just after you have started 
and have been calculating that you will arrive at such and such a place 
at such and such an hour. It is best to resign oneself at the beginning, 
once for all. While waiting patiently, you have an opportunity of study- 
ing Japanese life. Neither be moved to anger because you are asked 
personal questions by casual acquaintances. To ask such questions is the 
Japanese way of showing kindly interest. 



18 Introduction : — Language. 

20. — Language. 

The Japanese language, though extremely difficult to learn correctly, 
is easy to acquire a smattering of ; and even a smattering will add im- 
mensely to the pleasure of a tour in the country, by bringing the 
traveller into personal relations with the people, and by delivering him 
from the wearisome tutelage of guides and interpreters. 

Remember, in pronouncing Japanese, that the consonants are to be 
sounded approximately as in English, the vowels as in Spanish or Italian, 
that is to say : — 

a as in father i as in pin 

e as in pet o as in pony 

u as in full 

But i and u are sometimes almost inaudible, and are then marked 

7 and u in the following vocabulary, thus arimasu, "there is;" wakari- 
maslnta, " I understand." In diphthongs each vowel retains its original 
force. Thus : — 

ai as in the English word "sky" 
gal as in the English word " cow" 
ei as in the English word " hay." 

There is scarcely any tonic acceut ; in other words, all the syllables 
are pronounced equally or nearly so. But particular care must be taken 
to distinguish long 5 and u from short o and u. The short vowels are 
pronounced in a very light, staccato manner. Thus O tori nasai means 
M Please take this ;" but tori nasai means "Please come (or go, lit. pass) 
in." 

G is hard as in "give," never soft as in "gin ; " but in Tokyo and 
Eastern Japan it sounds Hire ng when in the middle of a word, exactly as 
in the English words " singer," " springy " (not " sing-ger," " spring-gy"). 

8 is always sharp as in "mouse." W is often omitted after Tc or g, as 
Jcashi, " cake," for kiuashi. Be very careful to pronounce double con- 
sonants really double, as in Italian ; thus, 7cite, " coming ; " but kittc, " a 
ticket," 

As in all other languages of the Tartar or Mongolian type, so in 
Japanese the adjective precedes its noun, and the genitive precedes the 
nominative. Prepositions follow their noun, and are therefore really 
"postpositions." The verb comes at the end of the sentence. There is 
no distinction between singular and plural, or between the different 
persons of the verb, and there are no genders. Consequently such 
phrases as Kimasliita ka? may equally well mean "Has he come?" 
" Has she come ? " or " Have they come ? " — for pronouns are very little 
used, the sense they would convey being generally left to be gathered 
from the context. Questions are asked by suffixing the particle ka, as in 
the instance just cited. There are no negative adverbs or pronouns, like 
our English " not," " never," " nothing," etc. ; but the tenses of Japanese 
verbs have negative forms. Though the conjugations are too complicated 
to be given here in detail, the following specimens of the most useful 



Language. 



19 



tenses, positive and negative, may be of practical utility. The beginner 
will probably find the Honorific forms the easier to remember. They are 
in constant use. 

Paradigm of Japanese Veebs. 



Present & Cer- 
tain Future 

Past. 

Probable Fut. 
Gerund. 
Neg. Pres. 
Neg. Past. 
Improb. Fut. 



I Plain. 
I Honorific. 
j Plain. 
( Honorific. 
/Plain. 
I Honorific. 
(Plain, 
j Honorific. 
j Plain. 
( Honorific. 
(Plain. 
( Honorific. 
(Plain. 
(Honorific. 






ABU 

Arimasu 

Atta 

Arimasliita 

Ard or aru dard 

Arimasho 

Atte 

Arimasliite 

Nai 

Arimasen 

Nakatta 

Arimasen desliita 

Nakard or Arumai 

Arimasumai 



j There is or 
f will be. 

J- There was. 

[ There probably will 

[ be. 

[There being, having 

\ been. 

[ There is not or 

J will not be. 

!■ There was not. 

) There probably will 
j not be. 



Present & Cer- 
tain Future, 

Past. 

Probable Fut. 
Gerund. 
Neg. Pres. 
Neg. Past. 
Improb. Fut. 



(Plain. 
I Honorific. 
(Plain. 
I Honorific. 
( Plain. 
i Honorific. 
( Plain, 
i Honorific. 
( Plain. 
( Honorific. 
/ Plain. 
| Honorific. 
I Plain. 
(Honorific. 



IKU 

Ikimasu 

Itta 

Ikimaslftta 

Ikd or iku dard 

IJcimaslid 

Itte 

Ikimasliite 

Ikanai 

ITcimascn 

Ikanakatta 

IJcimasen desliita 

Ikumai 

I/cimasumai 



{I go or 

j will go. 

>I went. 

( I shall probably 

I go- 

J Going, having 

i g° ne - 

( I do not or 
\ shall not go. 



-I did not go 



I shall probably not 
go. 



Present & Cer- 
tain Future. 

Past. 

Probably Fut. 
Gerund. 
Neg. Pres. 
Neg. Past. 
Improb. Fut. 



J Plain. 
i Honorific. 
J Plain, 
i Honorific. 
/Plain. 
( Honorific. 
/Plain. 
j Honorific. 
| Plain. 
i Honorific. 
/Plain, 
i Honorific. 
[ Plain. 
I Honorific. 



KURU 

Kimasu 

Kita 

Kimasliita 

Koyo or Jcitru dard 

Kimaslw 

Kite 

Kimashtte 

Konai 

Kimasen 

Konalcatta 

Kimasen desliita 

Kimai 

Kimasumai 



\ I come or 
\ will come. 

[-1 came. 

j I shall probably 

j come. 

[ Coming, having 

j come. 

j I do not or 

\ shall not come. 

!• I did not come. 

I shall probably not 
come. 



20 



Introduction : — Language. 



Present & Cer- 
tain Future. 

Past. 

Probable Fut, 
Gerund. 
Neg. Pres. 
Neg. Past. 
Improb. Fut. 



(Plain. 
(Honorific, 
j Plain. 

{ Honorific. 
I Plain. 
] Honorific. 
(Plain. 
{ Honorific. 
j Plain. 
(Honorific. 
/Plain. 
I Honorific. 
j Plain. 
(Honorific. 



SURU 
Shimasu 

Shita 

Shimashtta 

Shi yd or sunt daro 

Shimasho 

Shite 

Shiviaslutc 

Shinai 

Sli imasen 

SliinaJcatta 

Shimasen dcsluta 

Sliimai 

Shimasiunai 



\ I do or 
\ shall do. 

1 1 did. 

) I shall probably 

1 do. 

( Doiug, having 

\ done. 

} I do not or 

\ shall not do. 

[■ I did not do. 

[ I shall probably not 
i do. 



Present & Cer 
tain Future. 

Past. 

Probably Fut. 
Gerund. 
Neg. Pres. 
Neg. Past. 
Improb. Fut. 



| Plain. 
\ Honorific. 
(Plain. 
| Honorific. 
(Plain. 
( Honorific. 
(Plain. 
"( Honorific. 
( Plain. 
I Honorific, 
i Plain. 
(Honorific. 
J Plain. 
\Honorific. 



[ I eat or 
\ shall eat. 



TABERU 
Tabemasu 

Tabeta 

Tabemashtta \ 

Tabeyo or taberu daro) I shall probably 



I 



late. 



Tabcmasho 
Tabde 
Tabemasliite 
Tabenai 

Tabemasen 
TabcnaJcatta 
Tabemasen deshita 
Tabemai 
Tabemasumai 



f eat. 

[ Eating, having 

\ eaten. 

) I do not or 

\ shall not eat. 



I did not eat. 



\ 

\ I shall probably not 
\ eat. 



I 



Adjectives are conjugated somewhat after the model of a-u " to be,' 1 
Bsyoroshii or yoi, "it is good;" yoJcatta, "it was, or would have been 
good ; " yoJcarb, " it will probably be good ; " yokunai, " it is not good ; " 
yokvte, " being good ;" yoJcu naJcute , " not being good.'' Similarly ivarui, 
"is bad;" waru/catta, "was bad;" taJcai "is dear;" takakunai, "not 
dear ; " mtizuhashi% " is difficult ; " muzukashikute, " being difficult," etc. 

The Japanese, like other nations of the Far-East, are much addicted 
to the use of polite forms of speech. When two equivalents for the same 
English phrase are given in our list of Useful Sentences, that marked 
" less polite " should be used only to coolies and others of the lowest 
class. It will be noticed in numerous examples that our English impera- 
tives are almost always softened down to a polite periphrasis with the 
word kudasai, " please give," " condescend to .... " Sometimes the final 
Jciidasai is omitted for brevity's sake, as To wo shimete kudasai (lit. 
"Door shutting condescend"), or more familiarly To wo shimete, " Shut 
the door." 

The following Vocabulary of words connected with food and travel, 
and the Sentences that follow, will be found useful. The interlinear 
literal translations serve to show which word corresponds to which, — a 
thing otherwise hopelessly perplexing to the beginner, on account .of the 
wide gulf that separates Japanese from English idiom. Those ambitious 



language. 



21 



of learning more of the language can provide themselves with Chamber- 
lain's Handbook of Colloquial Japanese. Satow and Ishibashi's English- 
Japanese Pocket Dictionary is excellent. Hepburn's Pocket Dictionary is 
to be recommended for Japanese-English. 



Aerated water 
Bag 

Baggage 
Bar-room 
Bath 

Bath-room 
Beans 
Bed 

Bed-clothes 
Bed-room 
Bedstead 
Beef 
Beer 
Bell 

Billiard-room 
Bill of fare 
Blanket 
Boat 
Boatman 
Boots 
Bottle 
Box 
Brazier 
Bread 
Breakfast- 
Bridge 
Cabin 
Cake 
Candle 
Candlestick 
Carriage 
Charcoal 
Chicken 
Chopsticks 
Cigar 
Cigarette 
Coachman 
Coal 
Coffee 
Consulate 
Coolie 
Cucumber 
•Curio -shop 
Dining-room 
Dinner (late) 
Disinfectant 
Door 
Downstairs 



Vocabulary. 




teppo-mizu 


Driver 


gyosha 


fukuro 


Duck (tame) 


ahiru 


nimotsU 


Duck (wild) 


kamo 


sal: aba 


Eels 


unagi 


fi(?'0, o yu 


E<*tf 


tamago 


furoba 


Egg-plant 


nasu 


mame 


Express train 


kyuko-rcssha 


toko 


Fan- 


ennichi 


yogi, fyton 


Fan (that shuts] 


ogi> scnsic 


nema, nebeya 


Ean (not shut- 




nedai 


ting) 


uclxiv:a 


gyu-niku, ushi 


Feast 


gochiso 


biiric 


Ferry 


funa-icatashi 


yobi-gane 


Festival 


maisuri 


tama-tsuki-ba 


Fire 


hi 


kondate 


Fish 


sakana 


furanken, ketto 


Flea 


nvmi 


fiine 


Food 


tabe-mono 


sendo 


Food (European 


) yo-shoku 


kutsu 


Fork 


niku-sashi 


tokkuri, bin 


Fowl 


tori 


liako 


Fruit 


mizu-gwashi 


hibachi 


Grapes 


budo 


pan 


Guide 


annai-sha 


asa-han 


Hill 


yania 


hashi 


Horse 


iima 


heya 


Hotel 


yadoya, hoteru 


kicashi 


House 


ie, jinka 


rbsoku 


Ice 


kbri 


teshoku 


Inn 


yadoya 


basha 


Island 


shima 


sumi 


Kitchen 


dai-dokoro 


niwa-tori, tori 


Knife 


hoc] to 


liashi 


Lake 


mizu-umi, kosui 


maki-tabako 


Lamp 


rampu 


kami-maki 


Lantern 


chochin 


gyosha 


Lemon 


yuzu 


sckitan 


Lemonade 


ramune 


kohi, kahe 


Light 


akari 


rydji-kwan 


Luggage 


nimotsu 


ninsoku 


Lunch 


hiru-gozen 


ki-nri 


Mat 


tat ami 


dbgu-ya 


Match 


tsukcgi, matchi 


shoku-db 


Matting 


goza 


yu-shoku 


Meat 


niku 


shuki-domc 


Melon (musk-) 


makmca~uri 


to 


Melon (water-) 


snikwa 


shita 


Milk 


chichi 



22 



Introduction : — Language, 



Money 

Mosquito 

Mosquito-net 

Mountain 

Mustard 

Napkin 

Oil 

Oil-paper 

Omnibus 

Onions 

Orange 

Overcoat 

Oyster 

Parcel 

Parcel post 

Pass (between 

mountains) 
Passport 
Path 
Peach 
Pear 
Peas 
Pepper 
Persimmon 
Pheasant 
Plum 
Policeman 
Police-station 
Portmanteau 
Post-office 
Potatoes 
Potatoes (sweet) 
Quail 
Railway 
Railway train 
Rice (boiled) 
River 
Road 

Road (uew) 
Road (old) 
Room 
Rug 
Salmon 
Salmon-trout 
Salt 

Sardines 
Screen 
Sea 



kane, kinsu 
ka 

Jcaya 

yama 

karashi 

kuchi-fvki 

abura 

abnra-kami 

nori-ai-basha 

negi 

mikan 

gwaitdy uwagi 

kaJci 

tsutsumi-mono 

ko-zutsumi yubin 

toge 

(ryoko) merijo 

michi 

memo 

nashi 

endo-mame 

kosho 

JcaJci 

Jciji 

sumomo, time 

junsa 

Jcoban 

Jcaban 

yubin-kyoku 

imo 

Satsuma-imo 

uzura 

tetsudo 

Jcisha 

meshi, gozen 

ka wa 

michi 

shindo 

kyudo 

hey a, zashiki 

ketto 

shake 

masu 

sJiiico 

iwashi 

byobu 

umi 



Servant 

Ship 

Sni^je 

Soap 

Soup 

Soy 

Spoon 

Stamp (postage 

Station 

Steamer 

Stick 

Strawberry 

Street 

Sugar 

Supper 

Tea 

Tea-house 

Telegram 

Telegraph Office 

Telephone 

Temple (Bud- 
dhist) 

Temple (Shinto) 

Ticket 

Ticket (return) 

Tomato 

Toothpick 

Towel 

Town 

Train 

Train (first) 

Train (last) 

Train (express) 

Tramway 

Trout 

Tunnel 

Turnip 

Umbrella 

Upstairs 

Vegetables 

Vinegar 

Waiter ! 

Waitress ! 

Water (cold) 

Water (hot) 

Water-closet 

Window 

Wine 



meshi-tsukae 
fune 

shigi 
shabon 
soppiL, tsuyu 
shoyu 
saji 
■) yubin-gitte, inshi 
station, teishaba 
jokisen 
tsue 
icJiigo 
machi, tori 
said 

yu -meshi 
cha, o cha 
chaya 
dempo 

denshin-kyoJcu 
demc a 
tcra 

yashiro, jinja 

kippu 

ohen-gippu 

alca-nasu 

koydji 

te-nugui 

machi 

Jcisha 

ichiban-gislia 

shimai-gisha 

JcyiiJco-ressha 

tetsudo-basha 

ai, yamame 

ana, tonneru 

Jcabu 

Jcasa, ledmori 

nikai 

yasai 

su 

boy! 

nesan I 

mizu 

yu, oyu 

benjd, chozuba 

ma do 

budoshu 



I 

You 
He 
She 
It 



watakushi 
anata, omae 
ano Into, ano otoko 
ano Into, ano onna 
scrre, are 



We 

You (plur.J 

They 

This 

That 



wa ta k us hi-domo 
anata-gata 
ano hlto-tachi 
kore 
sore, are 






Language. 



23 



1 


— 


hitotsu 


or ichi 


2 


- 


futatsu 


„ ni 


3 


—\ 


mitsu 


,, S&71 


4 


m 


yotsu 


„ shi 


5 


m 


itsutsu 


»s £0 


6 


y> 


mutsu 


,, ?'0^W 


7 


-b 


nanatsu ,, shichi 


8 


A 


y at sic 


,, hachi 


9 


% 


kokonotsu ,, ku 


10 


+ 


to 


» /« 


11 


+- 


ju-ichi 




12 


+n 


ju-ni 




13 


+H 


ju-san 




14 


+ra 


ju-shi 




15 


+5: 


ju-go 






No 


1 


ichi-ban 




No 


. 2 


ni-ban 




No 


3 


sam-ban 




No 


. 4 


yo-ban 




No 


. 5 


go-ban 



16 


+* 


ju-roku 


17 


+-b 


ju-shzchi 


18 


+A 


ju-hachi 


19 


-Wl 


ju-ku 


20 


~+ 


ni-ju 


21 


r+- 


ni-ju-ichi 


22 


zi+n 


ni-ju-ni 


30 


H+ 


san-ju 


40 


H4- 


shi-ju 


50 


5+ 


go-ju 


60 


*+ 


roku-ju 


70 


*+ 


shichi-ju 


80 


A+ 


hachi- ju 


90 


A+ 


kit-jii 


100 


S 


hyaJcu 


1 c 


>'clock 


ichi-ji 


2 


?> 


ni-ji 


3 


)> 


san-ji 


4 


,, 


yo-ji 


5 


» 


go-ji 




$2 — m-6?& 




1st 


class— -joto 




2n< 


1 class — chiito 




3rd 


. class — kato 



$1 — ichi-en 

10 cents— jis-sen 
20 cents — ni-jis-sen 
30 cents — san-jis-sen 

Many of onr words have no Japanese equivalents, because the things 
for which they stand are not commonly known in Japan. Such are, for 
instance, jam, lamb, tin-opener. The following are examples of Japanese 
words for which there are no exact English equivalents : 

Bento, lunch carried with one. 

Bento-bako, a box to hold such lunch. 

Betto, a running groom. 

Kago, a kind of basket or litter in which travellers are carried. 

Yanagi-gori, a useful sort of trunk made of wicker-work. 

Kyahan, a kind of gaiters. 



How do you do ? 

Good morning. 

It is fine weather to-day. 



Useful Sentences. 
I. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Konnichi iva ! 
To-day as for 

O hayo. 

Honourably early 

Konnichi wa, 
To-day as for, 
gozaimasii. 



yoi tenki de 
good weather by 



24 



Introduction: — Language. 



It is hot to-day. 

It is cold to-day. 

(The above weather remarks 
Good evening. 

Good night. 

Goodbye. 

Thank you. 

Pray don't mention it. 

That is so (^English "yes"). 

,, (less polite). 

Is that so ? 
That is not so. 

Isn't that so ? 

Is that all right ? (polite) 

„ (less polite). 
That is all right. 
Is it this ? 

It is this. 
It isn't this. 

Do you understand ? 

I understand. 

I don't understand. 

Please come here. 

Come in. 

Please sit down. 

Please come again. 

Please excuse me. 

Allow me to congratulate you. 



That is plenty. 
No, thank you. 



atsu gozaimasu. 

Honourably hot augustly-is 

samu gozaimasu. 

almost amount to greetings.) 

Komban wa ! 

This evening as for 

yasumi nasai. 

Honourably resting deign 

Sayonara. 

Arigato. 

Do itasliimasliite ! 
How having done 

Sayo de gozaimasu. 
So by is 

So desu, or So da. 
So is So is 

So desu ka? 

So ja oiai. 

So by isn't 

So ja nai ka ? 

Yoroshu gozaimasu Tea ? 
Good is ? 

Yoroshii Tea ? 

Yoroshu gozaimasu ; or Yoroshii. 

Kore desu Tea ? 
This is ? 

Kore desu. 

Kore ja nai. 
This by is n't 

VfaJcarimasliita Jca ? 
Have understood ? 

WaTcarimasliita. 

Wakarimasen. 

Oide nasai. 

Honourable exit deign 

O hairi nasai. 

Honourable entering deign 

Dozo o haTce nasai. 

Please honourably to place deign 

Mat a irasshai. 

Again come (honorific verb) 

Gomcn nasai. 

August excuse deign 

O medeto gozaimasu. 

Honourably congratulatory is 

Mo taJcusan. 
Already plenty 



Language. 



25 



What shall we do ? 

What is it ? 

What is this ? 

Please show me. 

Please let ine know. 

Just let me look. 

Please go and ask. 

You had better go and ask. 

Just go and see. 

Is that all right ? 

Don't do that. 

That won't do. 

Why do you do such things ? 

Please take care. 

Where is it ? 

Who is it ? 
When is it ? 
Where is it from ? 
What o'clock is it? 

Is this all ? 

I don't kuow. 

He says he doesn't know. 

Wait a little. 

Go quickly. 

That is no good, or That won't do. 
Which is yours ? 



Do slibnasho % 
How shall do 

Nan desu ka? 

What is ? 

Kore wa t nan desu ka ? 

This as for, what is ? 

Misete kudasai. 
Showing condescend 

S h iras kite k udasai. 
Informing condescend 

Cliotto haiken 
Jubt respectful glance 

Kiite kudasai. 
Asking condescend 

Kiite kuru ga ii. 
Heaiing to-come (nom.) good 

Cliotto mite kite kudasai. 
Just, looking coming condescend 

Sore de yoroshii ka ? 

That by, good ? 

So slnclia ikenai. 
So as for doing, can't go 

Sere ja ikemasen. 
That by, cant't go 

Naze sonna koto sum leal 
Why such things do ? 

Ki ico tsukete kudasai. 
Spirit (accus.) fixing condescend 

Doko desu Tea 1 
Where is ? 

Dare desu Tea 

Itsu desu ka ? 

Doko Tear a desu ka ? 

Nan-doki desu ka? 
What-hour is ? 

Kore dake desu ka ? 
This only is ? 

Shirimasen (Bhiranai less polite). 

Shirimasen to iimasu. 
Knows-not that says 

Siikoshi mate. 
Little wait 

Hayaku! hayaku! 
Quickly quickly 

Sore wa } dame desu. 
That as for, useless is 

Dochi ga anata no desu kal 
Which (nom.) you of is ? 



26 



Introduction : — Language. 



This is mine. 
Who is that ? 
What is his name ? 

That is enough. 

Oh, what a bother ! 

Don't make such a row ! 

Don't bother so ! 

What a horrid smell 1 

Please leave off. 
Don't do that. 

It can't be helped. 

As quickly as possible. 

As early as possible. 

Is anything the matter ? 

Which is the best ? 

How much for one ? 

How much per ri (2J miles) ? 

How much per head ? 

What is the charge per ri ? 

I don't want that. 

This is the one I want. 

It doesn't matter. 
Don't trouble about it. 

What a pity ! 

I don't want to go. 



Kore ga watakushi no desu. 
of is. 

dare desu lea ? 



who is 

no na wa, 
of name as for, 
ka? 



nan 
what 



This (nom.) 

Ano hito iva, 
That person as for, 

Ano liito 

That person 

to iimasu 

that say ? 

Mo yoroshii. 
Already good 

Eomatta mon' da, ne ! 
Troubled thing is isn't-it. 

Yakamashii I 
Noisy. 

TJrusai ! urusai ! 
Troublesome troublesome. 

Kusai ! Jciisai ! 
Smelly smelly. 

yoshi nasai. 

Honourably abstaining deign. 

SMkata ga nai. 

Doing manner (nom.) isn't, 

NarutaJce Isolde. 

As... as possible hurrying. 

NarutaJce liayaJc it . 

As... as possible quickly. 

Do lea shimasliita ka ? 
Somehow has done ? 

Dochi ga yoroshii ? 
Which (nom.) good. 

HUotsu i/cura ? 
One how much 

Ichi-ri iJcura ? 
One ri how much 

Hitori-mae ikura I 

One person front how much 

Ichi-ri iJcura no tuari desu 
One-ri how much of proportion is 

ka? 

? 






Are 
That 

Kono 
This 



irimasen. 
enters not. 



wa, 
as for, 

lib ga irimasu 
side (nora.) enters 



Kamaimasen. 
Matters not 

koto 
fact 



Oshii 
Regrettable 



desu, 



ne! 
isn't-it. 



Ikitaku 
Wanting to go 



nai. 
am not. 



Language. 



27 



I don't want to eat. 
I have none at all. 
Has nobody come ? 



Which is the best inn ? 



TabetaJcu nai. 

Wanting to eat am not 

Suhoshi mo nai. 
Little even isn't 

Dare mo Jconai ha ? 
Anybody conies not ? 



II. 



AT AN INN. 



Have you any rooms ? 

Have you any beer ? 
This room will do. 

Can you give us European food ? 

I suppose you haven't bedsteads, 
have you ? 

I don't want a bedstead. 

Are there any mosquitoes here ? 



It is dreadfully hot. 
Please open the paper slides. 
Please shut the window. 
Bring some hot water. 

Bring some cold water. 
Where is the W. C. ? 
Please show me the way. 
Please bring a candle. 



Yado tea, nani-ya 
Hotel as for, what house 
yoroshii lea ? 
good ? 

Zasliihi wa, arimasu ha? 
Room as for, is ? 

Biiru wa, arimasu Tea ? 

Kono zasliihi de yoroshii. 
This room by, good 

Yo-shohtc ga dehimasu Tea ? 
Sea-food (nom.) eventuates ? 



ga 
(nom.) 



Nedai wa, 

Bedstead as for, 

Neda i tea 

Eedstead as for, 

Kono hen 



anmasumai, ne ? 

probably is not, eh? 



irwuisen. 
enters not 

wa, 



ha 



Is the bath ready ? 



This neighbourhood as for, mosquito 

ga imasii ha ? 
(nom.) dwells ? 

Atsuhute shiyd ga nai. 

Hot being way of doing (nom,) isn't. 

Shdji ico ahcte hudasai. 

Paper slide (accus.) opening condescend. 

Mado wo shimete hudasai. 
Window (accus.) shutting condescend 

O yu wo motte 

Honourable hot water (accus.) bearing 
hoi. 

come 

Mizu motte hoi. 
Cold water bearing come 

Benjd w a, dochira desu ? 
W. C. as for, where is 

Cliotto annai shite hndasai. 
Just guide doing condescend 

Bosohu wo, motte hite 

Candle (accus.) carrying coming 

hudasai. 

condescend 

Furo ga dehimasliita ha ? 
Bath (nom.) has eventuated ? 



28 Introduction : — Language. 

It is not ready yet. 



Isn't it ready yet ? 
When will it be ready ? 

Please let me know when it is ready. 



All right, Sir. 



Please buy me Hive 10 cent post- 
age-stamps. 



And then please take these things 
away. 



Have the things come from the 
wash ? 



I am thirsty. 
Give me a glass of water. 
Please give me some more. 
I am hungry. 

I want something to eat. 
Please get it ready quickly. 

Anything will do. 

And then please lay down the 
bedding. 

Please let me have more quilts. 



There is a hole in the mosquito- 
net. 



(Said only 



Mada dekimasen. 
Still eventuates not 

Mada dekimasen Tea ? 

Itsu dekimasu ka? 
"When eventuates ? 

Dekimashitara y shiraslute 

When shall have eventuated informing 

Jcudasai. 

condescend 

Kasliikomarimashita. 
Have been reverential 
to superiors). 

Jis-sen no yubin-gitte go-mai 
Ten cents of postage-stamp five pieces 

Icatte kite kusadai. 

buying coming condescend 

Sore kara, kore wo sagete 
That from, this (accus..) lowering 
kudasai. 
condescend 

Sentaku-mono ga dehita 

Wash-things (nom.) have eventuated 

ka? 

? 

Nodo 
Throat 

Mizu 
Water 

Motto 
More 



ga kaivakimasJiita. 
(nom.) has dried 

too ippai. 
(accus.) one-full 

Jcudasai. 
condescend 



naJca 

Honourable inside 

sukimashtta. 
has become empty 



ga 

(nom.) 



Nani Tea 
Something 



tabetai. 
want to eat 



O sliitaku wo hayaku 

Honorable preparations (accus.) quickly 
doka. 
please 

Nan de mo yorosliii. 
What by even good 

Sore Jcara, toko shiite Jcudasai. 
That from, bed spreading condescend 

Futon wo, motto shiite 
Quilt (accus.) more spreading 

Jcudasai. 

condescend 

Kay a ni t ana ga arimasu. 

Mosquito-net in, hole (nom.) is 



Language. 



29 



I want to get shaved. Is there a 
barber here ? 



There is. 

Then send for him. 

I feel unwell. 

Is there a doctor here ? 

Please call my " boy." 

Please hurry him up. 
Please lend a hand here. 
Please post these (letters). 

Please light the lights. 

I start at 7 o'clock to-morrow 
morning. 



As I am starting early to-morrow, 

please wake me early. 



I want to be called at J past 5. 



I am going by the first train in the 
morning. 

At what o'clock does the first train 
start ? 

Please engage two coolies. 



Hige wo sotte moraitai 
Beard (accus.) shaving want to receive 
ga, TcoTco ni tokoya ga 

whereas, here in barber (noni.) 
arimasu ka % 
is ? 

Gozaimasu (more polite than Ari- 
masu). 

Sonnarcij yonde Tcoi. 
If so, calling come 

Kagen ga warui. 

Feelings (nom.) had 

KoJco ni isha ga orimasu 
Here in doctor (nom.) dwells 



boy wo yonde 
hoy (accus.) calling 



WaiaTcuslii no 
I of 

Tcudasai. 

condescend 

Saisoku sliite Tcudasai. 
Urgency doing condescend 

Te ico Tcaslntc Tcudasai. 

Hand (accus.) lending condescend. 

Kono yubin wo daslutc 

This post (accus.) putting forth 

Tcudasai. 

condescend 

Al-ari wo tsukeie Tcudasai. 

Light (accus.) rising condescend 

Myoasa sJuchi-ji ni 

To-morrow morning seven-hours at, 
shuttatsu shiniasu. 

departure do 

Myd-asa hayaku iatsu 

To-morrow morning early start 

Jcara, hayaku okoshite Jcuda- 

because, early rousing con- 

sai. 
descend 

Go-ji-han ni olcoshlte morai- 

Five-hours-half at, rousing want-to- 
tai 
obtain 

Ichi-ban-gisha de ihimo.su. 

One-number-train by, go 

Ichi-ban-gisha wa nan-ji desu ? 
One-numher-train as for, what-hour is. 

Ninsoku futari tanonde 

Coolie two people requesting 

Tcudasai. 
condescend 



30 

Please bring the bill. 



Introduction : — Language. 



Please to accept this small sum as 
tea-money. 



Many thanks for the trouble you 
have taken. 



Is the luggage ready ? 



Please order the jinrikishas. 



We will start as soon as everything 
is ready. 

We must not be late. 



Doha, kanjo-gaki loo (motte 
Please bill- writing (accus.) carrying 
kite kudasai) . 
coming condescend 

Kore iv a, sukoshi desu ga, — 
This as for, little is although, — 

o chadai desu. 

honourable tea-price is 

Oki-ni o sewa ni 

Greatly honourable help to 

narimashita. 

have become 



Nimotsu no shitaku 

Luggage of preparation 

yoroshii ka ? 

good ? 



wa, 
as for, 



Wasure-mono 

Forgotten-things 



wa nai ka ? 

as for, aren't ? 



Kuruma no shitaku ico, 
Jinrikisha of preparation (accus.) 

shite kudasai. 

doing condescend 

Sliitaku shidai, de-kakemasho. 
Preparation according, will go forth. 

Osoku naru to ikenai. 
Late become if, can't go 



III. 

SHOPPING. 



I think I'll go out shopping. 

How much is it ? 

That is too dear. 

You must go down a little in price. 

Haven't you any a little cheaper ? 

How much does it all come to ? 

Have you change for a dollar ? 

Please send them to the hotel. 



Kai-mono ni de-lakemasho. 
Purchases to will probably go out 

Ikura desu? 
How much is 

Sore voa takai. 
That as for, dear 

Sukoshi o make nasai. 

Little honourably cheapening deign 

Mo chitto yasui no ga 
Still little cheap ones (nom.) 

nai ka ? 

aren't ? 

Mina de, ikura ni narimasu 
All by how much to becomes 

ka? 

? 

Ichi-en no tsuri wa, 

One-dollar of change as for 

ariniasu ka ? 

is ? 

Yado ye todokete kudasai. 
Hotel to forwarding condescend. 



Language. 



31 



IV. 



ON THE ROAD. 



Which is the way to Kiga? 



Please tell me the way. 

Go straight on. 

Where is the telegraph office ? 

Where is the ticket-office ? 



(Give me) one 1st class ticket to 
Nikko. 



(Please book) this luggage for 
Nikko. 



How many hours does it take to 
get to Naeoya ? 



I mean to spend the night at 
Nag ova. 



When does the train for Nikko 
start ? 



Where do we change trains ? 

I will rest a little. 

What is the name of that moun- 
tain ? 

What is this place called ? 



Kiga ye 

Kiga to 
dochira de 
which by 

Michi wo 
Road (accus.) 



iku 

goes 



michi 

road 



wa, 

as for, 



gozaimasu < 



oshiete kudasai. 
teaching condescend 

Massugu oide nasai. 

Straight honourable exit deign 

Den shin-Icy oku wa, dochira, 

Telegraph office as for, where 

desu ha? 

is ? 



Kippu 
Ticket 
do~ko 

where 


wo uru tokoro 

(accus.) sell place 
desu lea ? 
is ? 


wa, 

as for, 


Nikko 
Xikko 


made, joto 
till, superior class 


ichi- 

one- 


mai. 






piece 







Kore dake no nimotsu wo, 

This only of luggage (accus.) 
Nikko made. 

Xikko till 

Nagoya maole, nan-jUkan 
Nagoya till, what-hour-space 

kakarimasu ? 

lasts ? 

Na goya de, ippahu 

Xagoya at, one-night's lodging 

sum tswmori desu. 

do intention is 

Nikho-yuki no hi ha wa, 

Nikko going of train as for, 

nan-doki ni demasu ha? 

what hour at issues ? 



Doko de nori-haemasu 
Where at ride-change 



ha? 

? 



yasumimasho. 
will probably rest 



Siikoshi 

Little 

Ano yama wa, 
That mountain as for, 
iimasu lea? 

say ? 

Koko wa, nan 

Here as f • >r, what 

tokoro desu ka? 

place is ? 



nan 

what 



to 

that 



to 

that 



in 
say 



32 Introduction: — The Shinto Religion. 

Is this a Buddhist or a Shinto Kore wa, tera desu 

temple ? Tnis as for » Buddli. temple is 

ha ? yashiro desit ka ? 
? Sh. temple is ? 

How far is it from here to the next Koko kara, saki no sliuku 
town ? Here from, front of post-town 

made, ri-su wa dono 

till, mile-number as for, what 
kurai d.esu ? 
about is 

I will lie down a bit, as I feel Fune m yoimasluta kara. 
seasick. Ship in have-got-tipsy because, 

chotto nemasho. 
little will-lie 

21. — The Shinto Beligion. 

The Japanese have two religions, Shinto and Buddhism — the former 
indigenous, the latter imported from India via China and Korea ; but 
it must not be supposed that the nation is therefore divided into two 
distinct sections, each professing to observe one of these exclusively. 
On the contrary, the two are so thoroughly interfused in practice, that the 
number of pure Shintoists and pure Buddhists must be extremely small. 
The only exception is afforded by the province of Satsuma, from which the 
Buddhist priesthood has been excluded ever since some of their number 
betrayed the local chieftain into the hands of Hideyoshi. Every Japa- 
nese from his birth is placed by his parents under the protection of some 
Shinto deity, whose foster-child he becomes, while the funeral rites are 
conducted, with few exceptions, according to the ceremonial of the 
Buddhist sect to which his family belongs. It is only in recent years 
that burial according to the ancient ritual of the Shintoists has been 
revived, after almost total disuse during some twelve centuries. This 
apparently anomalous condition of things is to be explained by the fact 
that the Shinto religion demands little more of its adherents than a visit- 
to the local temple on the occasion of the annual festival, and does not 
profess to teach any theory of the destiny of man, or of moral duty, thus 
leaving the greater part of the field free to the priests of Buddha, with 
their apparatus of theological dogma aided by splendid rites and 
gorgeous decorations. Multitudinous as are its own deities, Buddhism 
found no difficulty in receiving those of the indigenous belief into its 
pantheon, this catholicity having been previously displayed with regard 
to Hindoo deities and other mythological beings. In most cases it 
was pretended that the native Shinto gods (Kami) were merely avatars 
of some Buddhist deity (Hotokc) ; and thus it was possible for those who 
became converts to the foreign doctrine to continue to believe in and 
offer up prayers to their ancient gods as before. 

Shinto is a compound of nature-worship and ancestor-worship. It 
has gods and goddesses of the wind, the ocean, fire, food, and pesti- 
lence, of mountains and rivers, of certain special mountains, certain 
rivers, certain trees, certain temples, — eight hundred myriads of deities 
in all. Chief among these is Ama-terasu, the radiant Goddess of the 
Sun, born from the left eye of Izanagi, the Creator of Japan, while 
from his right eye was produced the God of the Moon, and from his 
nose the violent God Susa-no-o, who subjected his sister to various 
indignities and was chastised accordingly. The Sun-Goddess was the 






, - .- 3**#~~^i.~r.JU-&B 



O KUS 










w 






3L~ 













IKMl 



SHINTO TEMPLE OF IZUMO 




The Shinto Religion. 33 

ancestress of trie line of heaven-descended Mikados, who have reigned 
in unbroken succession from the beginning of the world, and are 
themselves gods upon earth. Hence the Sun-Goddess is honoured above 
all the rest, her shrine at Ise being the Mecca of Japan. Other shrines 
hold other gods, the deified ghosts of princes and heroes of eld, some 
commanding a wide popularity, others known only to narrow local 
fame, most of them tended by hereditary families of priests believed 
to be lineal descendants either of the god himself or of his chief 
servant. From time to time new names are added to the pantheon. 
The present reign has witnessed several instances of such apotheosis. 

Shinto has scarcely any regular services in which the people take 
part, and its priests (kannushi) are not distinguishable by their appearance 
from ordinary laymen. Only when engaged in offering the morning and 
evening sacrifices do they wear a peculiar dress, which consists of 
a long loose gown with wide sleeves, fastened at the waist with a 
girdle, and sometimes a black cap bound round the head with a broad 
white fillet. The priests are not bound by any vows of celibacy, and are 
free to adopt another career whenever they choose. At some temples 
young girls fill the office of priestesses ; but their duties do not extend 
beyond the performance of the pantomimic dances known as Icagztra, and 
assistance in the presentation of the daily offerings. They likewise are 
under no vows, and marry as a matter of course. The services consist in 
the presentation of offerings of rice, fish, fruits, vegetables, the flesh of 
game, animals, and rice-beer, and in the recital of certain formal address- 
es, partly laudatory and partly in the nature of petitions. The style of 
composition employed is that of a very remote period, and would not be 
comprehended by the common people, even if the latter were in the habit 
of taking any part in the ritual. With moral teaching Shinto does not 
profess to concern itself. " Follow your natural impulses, and obey the 
Mikado's decrees:" — such is the sum of its theory of human duty. The 
sermon forms no part of its institutions, nor are the rewards and punish- 
ments of a future life used as incentives to right conduct. The continued 
existence of the dead is believed in, but whether it is a condition of joy or 
pain is nowhere revealed. 

Shinto is a Chinese word, meaning the " Way of the Gods," and was 
first adopted after the introduction of Buddhism to distinguish the native 
beliefs and practices from those of the Indian religion. 

The architecture of Shinto temples is extremely simple, and the mate- 
rial used is plain white wood with a thatch of chamaecyparisbark. The 
annexed plan of the Great Temple of Izumo (Izumo no O-yashiro), 
taken from a native drawing sold to pilgrims, and printed on Japanese 
paper, will serve to exemplify this style of architecture. Few Shinto 
temples, however, are quite so elaborate as this, the second holiest in the 
Empire. W T e find then : — 

1. The Main Shrine (honsha or honden), which is divided into two 
chambers. The rear chamber contains the emblem of the god {mi tama- 
shiro) — a mirror, a sword, a curious stone, or some other object — and is 
always kept closed, while in the antechamber stands a wand from which 
depend strips of white paper (goliei) intended to represent the cloth 
offerings of ancient times. The mirror which is seen in front of not a 
few temples was borrowed from the Shingon sect of Buddhists, and has 
nothing to do with the Shinto Sun-Goddess, as is often supposed. 

2. An Oratory (haiclcn) in front of the main building, with which it 
is sometimes, but not in the case of the Izumo temple, connected by 



34 Introduction: — Ryobu Shinto. 

3. A Corridor or Gallery (ai-no-ma). A gong often hangs over 
the entrance of the Oratory, for the worshipper to attract the attention 
of the god, and beneath stands a large box to receive contributions. 

4. A Cistern (mi tarashi), at which to wash the hands before prayer. 

5. A low Wall, or rather Fence (tama-gahi, lit. jewel hedge), en- 
closing the chief temple buildings. 

6. A second Enclosing Fence, often made of boards and therefore 
termed ita-gaki. 

7. A peculiar Gateway (torii) at the entrance to the grounds. Some- 
times there are several of these gateways. Their origin and signification 
are alike unknown. 

8. A Temple Office (shamusho), where the business of the temple is 
transacted, and where some of the priests often reside. 

9. Secondary Shrines (sessha or massha) scattered about the grounds, 
and dedicated not to the deity worshipped at the main shrine, but to 
other members of the crowded pantheon. 

10. A Library (bunko). This item is generally absent. 

11. A Treasure-house (liozo). 

12. One or more Places for Offerings (shinscnjo). 

13. A Gallery (hwairo). 

14. A Dancing-stage (bugaku-dai) . A more usual form of this is the 
kagura-dd, or stage for the performance of the kagura, an ancient 
symbolic dance. 

15. A Stable in which is kept the Sacred Horse (jimme), usually an 
albino. 

16. An Assembly Hall. This is generally missing. 

17. Gates. 

Frequently there is some object of minor sanctity, such as a holy 
well or stone, the image of the bull on which the god Tenjin rode, etc. 

The curiously projecting ends of the rafters on the roof of the honsJia 
are termed chigi. The cigar-shaped logs a^re termed Jcatsaogi. Both these 
ornaments are derived from the architecture of the primitive Japanese 
hut, the katsuogi having anciently served to keep in place the two trunks 
forming the ridge of the roof. The temple grounds are usually surrounded 
by a grove of trees, the most common among which is the cryptomeria, a 
useful timber tree. These plantations were originally intended to supply 
materials for the repair or re-erection of the buildings ; but in many cases 
their great antiquity causes a sacred character to be attributed to the older 
trees, which are surrounded by a fillet of straw rope, as if to show that 
they are tenanted by a divine spirit. 

The two figures with bows and arrows, seated in niches right and left 
of the gate to keep guard over the approach to the temple, are called 
Zuijin, or " attendants," more popularly Ya-daijin, or " ministers with 
arrows." The stone figures of dogs — or lions, as some suppose them to be 
— which are often found in temple grounds, are called Ama-inu and 
Koma-inu, lit. " the Heavenly Dog " and " the Korean Dog." They are 
credited with the power of driving off demons. 

22. — Ryobu Shinto. 

The doctrines of metempsychosis and universal perfectibility taught by 
Buddhism naturally made it tolerant of other creeds, and willing to afford 
hospitality to their gods in its own pantheon. Hence the early Buddhist 
teachers of the Japanese nation were led to regard the aboriginal Shinto 



i 



Japanese Buddhism. 35 

gods and goddesses as incarnations or avatars — trie Japanese term is 
gongen, signifying literally " temporary manifestations " — of some of the 
many myriads of Buddhas. Thus was formed a mixed system, called 
Ryobu Shinto or Shin-Butsu Konko which lasted throughout the Middle 
Ages. For a thousand years the service of most of the Shinto temples, 
except Ise and Izumo, was performed by Buddhist priests, and the temple 
architecture was deeply affected by Buddhist (that is, Indian) principles, 
— witness the elaborate carvings, the form of the two-storied sammon, or 
outer gate, and even the pagoda itself, which, though essentially Buddhis- 
tic, was found in the most popular Shinto shrines. In several cases, for 
instance Kompira and Hachiman, the so-called Shinto deities worshipped 
were probably unknown in pre-Buddhist ages, and owed their origin to 
priestly ingenuity. This curious state of things began to totter more 
than a century ago, under the attacks of a school of enthusiastically 
patriotic literati who revived the ancient traditions of " pure Shinto." 
When the revolution of 1863 occurred, and restored the Mikado's authority, 
these old traditions, amongst which the divine right of the sovereign was 
one of the most important, became paramount. It was for a time hoped 
that Buddhism might be suppressed, and Shinto established as the sole 
national religion ; but the extreme party was in the end not allowed to 
have its way. The reform was limited to the complete separation of the 
two religions, and the Buddhist priests were expelled from the Shinto 
temples, which they had so long "contaminated" by their sway. All 
buildings, such as pagodas, belfries, and richly decorated shrines, that 
did not properly belong to the Shinto establishment were removed, 
many precious structures being thus destroyed by " purifying " zeal. In 
consequence of all this, the modern visitor to Japan loses much that 
delighted the eyes of those who came twenty years ago. To quote but a 
single example, the temple of Hachiman at Kamakura has been despoiled 
of its chief beauty. On the other hand, he has better opportunities for 
familiarising himself with the style of " pure Shinto," which, if severely 
simple, is at least unique in the world. 

23. — Japanese Buddhism. 

Buddhism, in its Chinese form, first entered Japan via Korea in the 
6th century of the Christian era, the first Japanese pagoda having been 
erected about A.D. 584 by one Soga-no-Iname. The Constantine of Japa- 
nese Buddhism was Sliotoku Taishi, prince regent under the Empress 
Suiko (A.D. 593-621), from whose time many of the most celebrated tem- 
ples date. Thenceforward, though Shinto was never entirely suppressed, 
Buddhism became for centuries the popular national religion, appealing 
as it did to the deepest instincts of the liuman heart, both by its doctrine 
and by its ritual, in a way which Shinto could never emulate. Buddhism 
was adopted by the very Mikados, descendants of the Shinto Goddess of 
the Sun. During the 6th, 7th, and 8th centuries, Korean and Chinese 
monks and nuns visited Japan for purposes of proselytism, much as 
Christian missionaries visit it to-day. From the 8th century onwards, it be- 
came more usual for the Japanese monks to visit China, in order to study the 
doctrines of the best-accredited teachers at the fountain-head. From 
these historical circumstances results the general adhesion of the Japa- 
nese Buddhists to the Chinese, Northern, or " Greater Vehicle " school of 
that religion (Sanskrit, Mahdydna ; Jap. Daijo), in whose teachiugs the 
simple morality of Southern Buddhism, as practised in Ceylon and Siam, 



36 Introduction : — Japanese Buddhism. 

is overlaid with many mystical and ceremonial observances. It must 
not be supposed, however, that all Japanese Buddhists agree among 
themselves. Buddhism was already over a thousand years old when 
introduced into this archipelago, and Chinese Buddhism, in particular, 
was split into numerous sects and sub-sects, whose quarrels took new 
root on Japanese soil. Some of the Chinese sects of that early day still 
survive. Such are the Tended and the Shingon. Others, notably the 
Nichiren and Shin sects, are later Japanese developments. The following 
are the chief denominations existing at the present day : — 

Tended (3 sub-sects). 
Shingon (2 sub-sects). 
Joelo (3 sub-sects). 

| Rimed (9 sub-sects). 
Zen, divided into i Soto. 

[Obahu. 
Shin, Monto (Hongiceinji), or Ikkol(10 sub-sects). 
Nichiren or HoJcIce (7 sub- sects). 
Ji. 
Yuzu Nembutsu. 

The points in dispute between the various sects are highly metaphy- 
sical and technical, — so much so that Mr. Satow, speaking of the Shingon 
sect, asserts that its " whole doctrine is extremely difficult to compre- 
hend, and more difficult to put into intelligible language." Of another 
sect he tells us that its " highest truths are considered to be incom- 
prehensible, except to those who have attained to Buddhaship." * 

Under these circumstances, the general reader will perhaps do best 
simply to fix in his mind the following few cardinal facts : — that 
Buddhism arose in India, some say in the 7th, others in the 11th, century 
before Christ ; that its founder was the Buddha Shaka Muni, a prince of 
the blood royal, who, disenchanted first of worldly pleasures and then of 
the austerities which he practised for long years in the Himalayan 
wilderness under the guidance of the most self-denying anchorites of 
his time, at length felt dawn on his mind the truth that all happh 

* The following may serve as a specimen of the difficulties to be encountered in 
this study : — ** The doctrine of the sect is compared to a piece of cloth, in which 
teaching of Shaka is the warp, and the interpretation or private judgment of 
individual, corrected by the opinion of other monks, is the woof. It is held that 
there is a kind of intuition or perception of truth, called Shin-ayo, suggested by the 
words of scripture, but transcending them in certainty. This is said to be in 
harmony with the thought of Shaka. The entirety of doctrine, however, results in 
one central troth, namely that ISiivana is the final result of existence, a state in 
which the thinking substance, while remaining individual, is unaffected by 
external, and is consequently devoid of feeling, thought, or passion. To this the 
name of Mu-i (Asa«/skWta) is given, signifying absolute, unconditioned existence. 
When this is spoken of as annihilation, it is the annihilation of conditions, not of the! 
sul stai ce, that is meant. Pushed to its logical result, this would appear to the 
ignorant (i.e., the unregenerate) to amount to the same thing as non-existence; but 
here we are encountered by one of those mysteries which lie at the foundation of all 
religious belief, and which must be accepted without questioning, if there 
any spiritual religion at all. A follower of Herbert Spencer would probably object 
that this is an 'illegitimate symbolical conception.' 

"Ignorant and obtuse minds are to be taught by lohen, that is by the presenta- 
tion of truth under a form suited to their capacity. For superior intellects shaka, 
quitting the symbolic teaching appropriate to the vernacular understanding, revealed 
the truth in itself. Whoever can apprehend the Ten Abstract Truths in their proper 
order may, after four successive births, attain to perfect Buddhaship, while the 'in- 
ferior intelligence can only arrive at that condition after UX) Kalpas, or periods of 
time transcending calculation."— (Satow.) 



Jmamm—mmmmmamaammmmmmmmammmmmmmmm 

oiMA8 3>il =JO 3JMM3T TS.'HdGUa 




UDDHIST TEMPLE OF IKESAMl 




Japanese Buddhism. 37 

and salvation come from within, — come from the recognition of the 
impermanence of all phenomena, from the extinction of desire which 
is at the root of life, life itself being at the root of all sorrow and 
imperfection. Asceticism still reigned snpreme ; but it was asceticism 
rather of the mind than of outward observances, and its ultimate object 
was absorption into Nirvana, which some interpret to mean annihilation, 
while others describe it as a state in which the thinking substance, after 
numerous transmigrations and progressive sanctification, attains to 
perfect beatitude in serene tranquillity. Neither in China nor in Japan 
lias practical Buddhism been able to maintain itself at these philosophic 
heights, but by the aid of hob en, or pious devices, the priesthood has 
played into the hands of popular superstition. Here as elsewhere there 
have been evolved charms, amulets, pilgrimages, and gorgeous temple 
services, in which people worship not only the Buddha who was himself 
an agnostic, but his disciples and even such abstractions as Amida, 
which are mistaken for actual divine personages. 

Annexed is the plan of the temple of Hommonji at Ikegami near 
Tokyo, which may be regarded as fairly typical of Japanese Buddhist 
architecture. The roofing of these temples is generally of tiles, forming 
a contrast to the primitive thatch of their Shinto rivals, The chief 
features are as follows : 

1. The Saminon, or two-storied Gate, at the entrance to the temple 
grounds. 

2. The Ema-do, or Ex-voto Hall, also called Gaku-do. 

3. The Shard, or Belfry. 

4. The Hondo, or Main Temple. 

5. The Soshi-do, or Founder's Hall, dedicated to Nichiren the 
founder of the sect to which this temple belongs. 

6. The Taho-to, or Pagoda-shaped Reliquary containing portions of 
Nichiren's body. 

7. The Pdnzo, or Revolving Library, holding a complete copy of the 
Buddhist canon. 

8. The Shoin, also called Zashiki, or Priests' Apartments. 

9. The Kyaku-den, or Reception Rooms. 

10. The Hozo, or Treasure-house. 

11. The Dai-dokoro, or Kitchen. 

12. The Chozu-bachi, or Cistern for washing the hands before 
worsbip. 

13. The Drum-tower (Koro). 

14. The Pagoda (Go-ju no to). 

15. Stone Lanterns (Ishi-dorb) presented as offerings. 

All temples do not possess a Founder's Hall in addition to the Main 
Temple, and very few possess a Taho-to or a Rinzo. In the temples of the 
Monto or Hongwanji sect, which always comprise two chief edifices, the 
larger of the two unites in itself the functions of Main Temple and 
Founder's Hall, while the lesser, with which it is connected by a covered 
gallery, is sometimes specially dedicated to Amida, the deity chiefly 

-hipped by this sect, and is sometimes used for preaching sermons in, 
whence the name of Jiki-do, or Refectory, alluding to the idea that 
sermons are food for the soul. A set of Buddhist buildings, with pagoda, 
belfry, etc., all complete, is often called a Shichi-do Garan. The termina- 
tion ji, which occurs in so many temple names, means "Buddhist 



38 



Introduction : — Japanese Buddhism. 





temple" in Chinese ; the current Japanese word is tcra. Most 
Buddhist temples have alternative names ending 
in sail and in. 

Many temples have what is called an Oltu- 
no-in, — a Holy of Holies, so to say, which is 
generally situated behind the main shrine, and 
often a long way up the mountain at whose 
foot the other temple buildings cluster. Most 
Oku-no-in are less highly ornamented than the 
temples to which they belong. Some indeed are 
mere sheds. 

The ceremony of throwing open to the gaze of 
worshippers the shrine which holds the image 
of the patron saint, is called Kaidio, and is usual- 
ly, accompanied by a short service. Pictures of 
the god, together with holy inscriptions (o fuda) 
and charms (mamori) are sold at many temples. 
The specimens here figured are from the great 
shrine of Pudo at Narita. Sometimes cheap 
miniature reprints of Buddhist sutras are offered 
for sale, bundles of straws or sticks used as 
counters by those performing what is termed 
the Hyaku-do, that is the pious act of walking 
up and down the temple court a hundred times, 
etc., etc. The flocks of pigeons seen fluttering about many 
temple courts are not objects of worship. They simply take 
up their home where piety secures from them molestation. 
object frequently seen in Buddhist temple grounds is the 

sotoba or toba. a corruption of the 
Sanskrit sttlpa (tope), which was ori- 
ginally a memorial erected over the 
remains of a saint. It assumes two 
forms in Japan, one being a thin 
stick, notched and often inscribed with 
Indian characters, the other a stone 
monument in common use as a grave- 
stone, where the component elem 
of the structure are more clearly in- 
dicated. They are the ball, crescent, 
pyramid, sphere and cube, sym- 
bolising respectively Ether, Air, Fire, 
Water, and Earth. One glance at a 
sotoba is said to ensure the foi> 
ness of all sins. 

The way up to temples or sacred 
mountains is frequently marked by 
oblong stones, like mile-stones, at the 
interval of a did, inscribed as follows : 
— PTf (or — f), one did; Zl W two 
did, etc. 

Stones with inscriptions, for which 
wooden boards are often substituted, 
also serve to commemorate gifts of 
money to the temple, or of trees to 




THE SOTOBA 

(In its two shapes.) 



Gods and Goddesses. 



39 



ornament the grounds. Irregularly shaped slabs of stcne are much prized 
by the Japanese, who use them as monumental tablets. 

All the famous holy places have subsidiary or representative temples 
(tUsushi or de-barij in various parts of the Empire, for the convenience of 
those worshippers who cannot make the actual pilgrimage. The shrine 
of the Narita Fudo at Asakusa in Tokyo is a familiar example. 

24. — List of Gods and Goddesses. 

The following are the most popular deities, Buddhist and Shinto. They 
are placed together in one list, because throughout Japanese history 
there has been more or less confusion between the two religion- : — 

Aieen Myo-o, el deity represented with a fierce expression, a fiarning 
halo, three eyes, and six arms. Nevertheless he is popularly regarded as 
the God of Love. Anderson describes him as "a transformation of 
Atchal. the In 

A .-tcrasu, lit. "the Heaven-Shiner," that is, the Sun-Godd 
Born from the left eye of the Creator Izanagi. was 

performing his ablutions on returning from a visit be his lead wife Iza- 
nami in Hades, herself the ancestress :: 

Imperial Family of Japan. The m:~: striking episode in her legem 
that in which she is insulted by her brother 3usa-no-c and retires in 
high dudgeon to a cavern, thus plunging the whole world in larks 
All the >thei gods and goddesses assemble at the cavern's month, with 
music and dancing. At length curiosity lures her to tire door, and she 
is finally enticed out by the sight of her own fair image in a mirror, 
which one of the gods pushes : r ards her. The origin of 
sacred 3 3es called Kagura is traced to this incident by the native 
literati. Other names under which the Sun-Goddess it known are 
Shako Daijin, and JT 

A}. ' Sanskrit A .' ) Ekpowe 
deity dwelling in a lovely paradise t 

Originally A . ..'. was an abst . - 
tion, the ideal of boundless light. His 

cerally be recognised by 
hands lying on the lap, with :re thumbs 
placed end to end. Very after ::: 
halo (goko) forms a background not only to 
the he is then 

termed fwna-goko, from its resemblance in 
shape to a boar. The spot on the forehead 
is emblematical of wisdom. [ : im- 

age (Daibutsu) at Kamakura rej res ants this 
deity. 

Anas (Sanskrit, . . one of Bud- 

end earliest converts. He is 
called Tamon ^\£ . lit. "hearing 
much." on account of h ive know- 

ledge and wonderful memory, a name which 
is also applied to Bishamon. 

BenteuST, or Bzxzaiten, one of the Seven 
Deities of Luck. She is often represented 
riding on a serpent or dragon, whence 
perhaps the sacred character attributed amida. 




40 



Introduction : — Gods and Goddesses. 



in mauy localities to snakes, 
on islands. 



Benten's shrines are mostly situated 




Bixzuru, originally one of the Six- 
teen Rakaiu was expelled from their 
number for having violated his vow of 
chastity by remarking upon the beauty 
of a female, whence the usual situation 
of his image outside the chancel. It is 
also said that Buddha conferred on him 
the power to cure all human ills. For 
this reason, believers rub the image of 
Binzuru on that part which may be 
causing them pain in their own bodies, 
and then rub themselves in the hope of 
obtaining relief. Binzuru is a highly 
popular object of worship with the 
lower classes, and his image is often 
to be seen adorned by his devotees with 
a red or yellow cotton hood, a bib, and 
mittens. 

Bishamon (Sanskrit, Vdisramana), 
explained in Eitel's Hand-book of Chi- 
nese Buddhism as the God of Wealth, 
has been adopted by the Japanese as 
one of their Seven Gods of Luck, with 
£>j.x>ziuxiu. .j.j ie S p ec i a i characteristic of imperson- 

ating war. Hence he is represented as clad in armour and bearing a 
spear, as well as a toy pagoda. 
Boxtex, Brahma. 

Bosatsu (Sanskrit, Bodhisattva), the general title of a large class of 
Buddhist saints, who have only to pass through one more human exist- 
ence before attaining to Buddhahood. 

Daikoku, the God of Wealth, may be known by his rice-bales. 
Daixichi Nyorai (Sanskrit, Vdirotchcuia Tathagata), is one of the 
persons of the Tritrana, or Bud- 
dhist Trinity, the personification of 
wisdom and of absolute purity. He 
is popularly confounded with Fudo, 
the images of the two being diffi- 
cult to distinguish. 

Daiseishi, a Bosatsu belong- 
ing to the retinue of Amida. 

Daishi, a title applied to many 
Buddhist abbots and saints. It 
means either " Great Teacher," 
or ''Perfected Saint" (Sanskrit 
Mah&sattva), according to the 
characters used to write it. 

Dabuma (Sanskrit, Dharma), a 
deified Indian Buddhist patriarch 
of the 6th century, who sat for 
nine years in profound abstrac- 
tion till his legs fell off. 

Dosojin, the God of Roads. 




Gods and Goddesses, 



41 



Ebisu, one of the Gods of Luck, is the patron of honest labour. He 
bears in his hand a tai-fish. 




EMMA-6. 

Emma-0 (Sanskrit, Ydma-raja), the regent of the Buddhist hells. 
He may be known by his cap resembling a judge's beret, and by the huge 
mace in his right hand. Before him often sit two myrmidons, one of 
whom holds a pen to write down the sins of human beings, while the 
other reads out the list of their offences from a scroll. 

Fu Daishi, a deified Chinese priest of the 6th century, the inventor 
of the Rinzo, or Revolving Libraries, for a description of which see Route 
4, Asakusa Temple. Fu Daishi is represented in art seated between 
his two sons Fuken and Fujo, who clap their hands and laugh, and 
hence are popularly known as Warai-botoke, or the Laughing Buddhas. 

Fudo (Sanskrit, Achala). Much obscurity hangs over the origin and 
attributes of this popular divinity. According to Sir Monier Williams, 
Achala, which means " immovable " {Fudo, ^pfft, translates this meaning 
exactly), is a name of the Brahminical God Siva and of the first of the 
nine deified persons called " white Balas " among the Jainas. Satow 
says : — " Fudo (Akshara)is identified with Dainichi (Vairo^ana), the God 
of Wisdom, which quality is symbolised by the flames which surround 
him : it is a common error to suppose that he is the God of Fire. 
According to the popular view, the sharp sword which he grasps in the 
right hand is to frighten evil-doers, while in his left hand he holds a 
rope to biod them with." — Fudo is generally represented in art attended 
by his two chief followers, Seitaka Ddji and Kongara Doji. 

Fugex (Sanskrit, Samantabliadra) is the special divine patron of 
those who practise the HoJckc-zammai, a species of ecstatic meditation. 
His image is generally seated on the right hand of Shaka. 



42 



Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses. 




Fukukokuju, one of the Gods of 
Luck, is distinguished by a preter- 
naturally long head, and typifies 
longevity and wisdom. 

Go-chi Nyobai, the Five Bud- 
dhas of Contemplation or of Wisdom, 
viz., Yakushi, Taho, Dainichi, Ashu- 
ku, and Shaka. But some authori- 
ties make a different enumeration. 

Goxgen. This is not the name 
of any special divinity, but a general 
term used in Ryobu Shinto (see p. 
35) to denote such Shinto gods as 
are considered to be " temporary 
manifestations," that is, avatars or 
incarnations of Buddhas. It is, 
however, applied with special fre- 
quency to leyasu, the deified founder 
of the Tokugawa dynasty of Skoguns, 
who is the Gongcn Savia, that is 
Lord Gongen par excellence. 

Gwakeo Bosatsu, a Buddhist 
moon-deity. 

Hachemax, the Chinese _name 
under which, the Emperor Oiin is 
worshipped as the God of War. The 
Japanese equivalent is Yaw 
reason for this particular form of 
apotheosis is not apparent, as no 
warlike exploits are recounted of the 
monarch in question. Perhaps it 
may be owing to the tradition that 
his mother, the Empress Jingo, car- 
ried him for three }'ears in her womb 
whilst making her celebrated i 
upon Korea. Au other explanation, 
suggested by Mr. Satow, is that his 
high position in the pantheon re- 
ed from the fact of his having been 
the patron of the powerful and war- 
like Alinamoto clan. 

Hotei, one of the Seven Gods of 
Luck, typifies contentment and good- 
nature. Ke is represented in art 
with an enormous naked abdomen. 

Hotoke, the general name of 
all Buddhas, that is, gods or per- 
fected saints of popular Buddhism. 
The dead are also often spoken of 
as hotoke. 

Ida Tex (Sanskrit, Ytda Bdja), 
a protector of Buddhism, generally 
represented as a strong and hand- 
some youth. 



Gods and Goddesses. 



43 




IXARI. 



Inari, the Goddess of Rice, also 
called Uga-no-Mitama. The im- 
age of the fox, which is always 
found in temples dedicated to 
Inari, seems to have been first 
placed there as a tribute to the 
fear which that wily beast in- 
spires ; but in popular superstition 
Inari is the fox-deity. There is 
some confusion with regard to the 
sex of Inari, who is occasion- 
ally represented as a bearded man. 
Izaxagi and Izaxalii, the Crea- 
tor and Creatress of Japan. The 
curious though indelicate legend 
of their courtship, the striking legend of the descent of Izanagi into Hades 
to visit Izanami after the latter's death and burial, and the account of 
Izanagi's lustrations, will be found in pp. 18-43 of the translation of the 
KojiH, forming the Supplement to Vol. X. of the Transactions of the 
Asiatic Society of Japan. 

Jizo (Sanskrit, Kshitigarbha), the 
compassionate Buddhist helper of 
those who are in trouble. He is the 
patron of travellers, of pregnant wo- 
men, and of children. His image is 
often loaded with pebbles, which serve 
in the other world to relieve the labours 
of the young who have been robbed of 
their clothes by the hag named Slid- 
zuTca no Baba, and then set by her 
to perform the endless task of piling up 
stones on the bank of the Buddhist 
Styx. Jizo is represented as a shaven 
priest with a benevolent countenance, 
holding in one hand a jewel, in the 
other a staff with metal rings (shakujo). 
His stone image is found more fre- 
quently than that of any other object 
of worship throughout the Empire. It- 
need scarcely be said that the resem- 
blance in sound between the names Jizo 
and Jcsits is quite fortuitous. 

Jurojin, one of the Gods of Luck, 
often represented as accompanied by a 
stag and a crane. 

Kami, a general name for all Shinto jizo. 

gods and goddesses. 

Kasho (Sanskrit, Kdsyapa), one of Buddha's foremost disciples. He 
is said to have swallowed the sun and moon, in consequence whereof his 
body became radiant like gold. 

Kishi Bojix, the Indian goddess Rariti or Ariti, was originally a 
woman, who, having sworn to devour all the children at Rajagriha, the 
metropolis of Buddhism, was reborn as a demon and gave birth to five 
hundred children, one of whom she was bound to devour every day. She 




A I z 




4:4: Introduction : — Gods and Goddesses. 

was converted by Buddha, and entered a nunnery. The Japanese wor- 
ship her as the protectress of children. She is represented as a beauti- 
ful woman, carrying a child, and holding a pomegranate in one hand. 
The lanterns and other ornaments of the temples dedicated to her are 
marked with the crest of the pomegranate. The offerings brought to her 
shrine by bereaved mothers are such as may well touch any heart, — the 
dresses, dolls, and other mementos of their lost darlings. 

Kojix, the God of the Kitchen. 

Kokuzo Bosatsu (Sanskrit, AJcdsha Bodhisattva), an infinitely wise 
female saint, who dwells in space. 

Kompiba (Sanskrit, Kwnbhira). Much obscurity shrouds the origin 
and nature of this highly popular divinity. According to some he is a 
demon, the crocodile or alligator of the Ganges. Others aver that Shaka 
Muni (Buddha) himself became " the boy Kompira," in order to over- 
come the heretics and enemies of religion who pressed upon him one day 
as he was preaching in "the Garden of Delight," — the said "boy 
Kompira " having a bodj 7 1,000 ft. long, provided with 1,000 heads and 
1,000 arms. The mediaeval Shintoists identified Kompira with Susa-no-o, 
brother of the Japanese Sun-Goddess. More recently it has been de- 
clared, on the part of the Shinto authorities whose cause the Government 
espouses in all such disputes, that the Indian Kompira is none other 
than Kotohira, a hitherto obscure Japanese deity whose name has a con- 
venient similarity in sound. Consequently the great Buddhist shrine of 
Kompira in the island of Shikoku, and all the other shrines erected to 
Kompira throughout the Empire, have been claimed and taken ever as 
Shinto property. Kompira is a special object of devotion to seamen and 
travellers. 

Koshin, a deification of that day of the month which corresponds to 
the 57th term of the Chinese sexagesimal circle, and is called in Japanese 
Ka-no-e Saru. This being the day of the Monkey, it is represented by three 
monkeys (sam biJci-zarii) called respectively, by a play upon words, 
mi-zaru, kika-zaru, and iica-zaru, that is, " the blind monkey," "the 
deaf monkey," and "the dumb monkey." Stone slabs with these three 
monkeys in relief are among the most usual objects of devotion met with 
on the roadside in the rural districts of Japan, the idea being that this 
curious triad will neither see, hear, nor speak any evil. 

Kuni-toko-tachi, lit. "The Earthly Eternally Standing One." 
This deity, with Izanagi, Izan ami, and four others, helps to form what are 
termed " The Seven Divine Generations " ( Ten] in Sliiclii-dai). 

Kwaxxon (Sanskrit, Avalokitesvara), the Goddess of Mercy, w T ho 
contemplates the world and listens to the prayers of the unhappy. 
According to another but less favourite opinion, Kwannon belongs to the 
male sex. Kwannon is represented under various forms — many-headed, 
headed like a horse, thousand-handed. With reference to the images 
of Kwannon, it should be stated that the so-called Thousand-Handed 
iiion has in reality but forty hands which hold out a number 
of Buddhist emblems, such as the lotus-flower, the wheel of the law, 

an and moon, a skull, a pagoda, and an axe — this last serving to 
typify severance from all worldly cares. A pair of hands folded on 
the image's lap holds the bowl of the mendicant priest. The Horse- 
Headed Kwannon has three faces and four pairs of arms, a horse's 
head being carved above the forehead of the central face. One of the 
four pairs of arms is clasped before the breast in the attitude called 
Ecnge no In, emblematical of the lotus-flower. Another pair holds 



Gods and Goddesses. 



45 




KWANNON. 



46 Introduction : — Gods and Goddesses. 

the axe and wheel. Yet another pair grasps two forms of the tofcTco 
(Sanskrit, vdjra), an ornament originally designed to represent a dia- 
mond club, and now used by priests and exorcists as a religious sceptre 
symbolising the irresistible power of prayer, meditation, and incantation. 
Of the fourth pair of hands, the left holds a cord wherewith to bind the 
wicked, and the right is stretched out open to indicate almsgiving or 
succour to the weak and erring. A title often applied to Kwannon is 
Nyo-i-rin, properly the name of a gem which is supposed to enable its 
possessor to gratify all his desires, arid which may be approximately 
rendered by the adjective " omnipotent." 

The two figures often represented on either side of Kwannon are 
Pudo and Aizen Myo-6. The "Twenty-eight Followers" of Kwannon 
(Ni-ju-liacJii Bushu), — favourite subjects of the Japanese sculptor and 
painter — are personifications of the twenty-eight constellations known to 
Far-Eastern astronomy. The various forms represented in the accom- 
panying illustration are : 

1. Sho-Kwannon (Kwannon the Wise). 

2. Ju-ichi-men Kwannon (Eleven-Faced). 

3. Sen-ju Kwannon (Thousand-Handed). 

4. Ba-to Kwannon (Horse-Headed). 

5. Nyo-i-rin Kwannon (Omnipotent). 

Mabishitbn (Sanskrit, Marichi), is the personification of light in the 
Brahmimeal theology, and also a name of Krishna. In Chinese and Japa- 
nese Buddhism, Marishiten is considered to be the Queen of Heaven, 
and is believed by some to have her residence in a star forming part of 
the constellation of the Great Bear. She is represented with eight arms, 
two of which hold up emblems of the sun and moon. 

Maya Buxix, the mother of Buddha. 

Mida, see Amida. 

Mikoto, a title- applied to Shinto deities. It is best translated 
by ; ' Au gu st n e s s . " 

Mihoku (Sanskrit, Mditreya), Buddha's successor, — the Buddhist 
Messiah, whose advent is expected to take place 5,000 years after 
Buddha's entry into Nirvana. 

Monju (Sanskrit Manjusri), the apotheosis of transcendental wisdom. 
His image is usually seated on the left hand of Shaka. 

Nikko Bosatsu, a Buddhist solar deity. 

Ni-6, lit. "the Two Deva Kings," Indra and Brahma, who keep 
guard at the outer gate of temples to scare away demons. Each 
bears in his hand the toTcJco. The figures of the Ni-6 are of gigantic 
size and terrific appearance, and are often bespattered with little pellets 
of paper, aimed at them by devotees who think thus to secure the 
accomplishment of some desire on which they have set their hearts. 

Nyobai (Sanskrit, Tathdgata), an honorific title applied to all 
Buddhas. It is compounded of Chinese nyo (jfl), " like," and rai (^Sg), 
" to come," the idea being that a Buddha is one whose coming and going 
are in accordance with the action of his predecessors. 

Onamuji or Okuni-nushi, the aboriginal deity of Izumo, who re- 
signed his throne in favour of the Mikado's ancestors when they came 
down from heaven to Japan. He is also worshipped under the titles of 
Sanno and Hie. 

Oxi, a general name for demons, ogres, or devils, — not " the Devil " 
in the singular, as Japanese theology knows nothing of any supreme 
Prince of Darkness. 



Gods and Goddesses. 



47 



Kazan (Sanskrit, Arhdn, or Arhat), properly the perfected Arya or 
"holy man," but used to designate not only the perfected saint, but 
all Buddha's disciples, more especially his "Five Hundred Disciples" 
{Go-hyaku RaJcan), and his " Sixteen Disciples " (Ju-roku RaJcan). Few 
art-motives are more popular with Japanese painters and sculptors. 
The holy men are represented in various attitudes, emaciated and 
scantily clad. 

Boku-bu-tex, a collective name for the Buddhist gods Bonten, 
Taishaku, and the Shi-Tenno. 

Saeuta-hiko, a Shinto deity who led the van when the divine 
ancestors of the Mikado descended to take possession of Japan. 

Seishi, a Buddhist deity who constantly attends Ami da. 

Sexgex, the Goddess of Mount Fuji. She is also called Asama or 
Ko-no-Ha:ia-Saku-ya-Him.e, that is, "the Princess who makes the Flowers 
of the Trees to Blossoms." 




SHAKA MUNI. 

Shaxa Muni, the Japanese pronunciation of S'dkya Muni, the name 
of the founder of Buddhism, who was also called Gautama and is gene- 
poken of by Europeans as "Buddha," though it would be more 
correct to say " the Buddha." In his youth he was called Shitta Taishi 
(Sanskrit, Siddhdrtha). His birth is usually placed by the Chinese and 
Japanese in the year 1027 B.C., but the date accepted by European 
scholars is 653 B.C. The most accessible account of Buddha's life and 
doctrine is that given by Professor Rhys Davids, in his little work entitled 
BuddJiisvi published by the Society for Promoting Christian Know- 
ledge. The entombment of Buddha, with all creation standing weeping 
around, is a favourite motive of Japanese art. Such pictures are called 



48 Introduction : — Gods and Goddesses. 

Ncluinzo, that is " Representations of the Entry into Nirvana." The birth 
of Buddha (tanjo-Shaka) is also often represented, the great teacher then 
appearing as a naked infant with his right hand pointing up and his left 
hand down, to indicate the power which he exercises over heaven and earth. 
Our illustration gives the most usual form of his image. Though not un- 
like that of Amida, it differs from the latter by the position of the hand 
and the shape of the halo. The chief festivals of Shaka are on the 8th 
April (his birthday) and the 15th February (the anniversary of his death). 

Shakihotsu (Sanskrit, S'ariputtra), the wisest of Buddha's ten chief 
disciples. 

Shichi Fukujin, the Seven Gods of Luck, namely 1 Ebisu, 2 Dai- 
koku, 3 Benten, 4 Fukurokuju, 5 Bishamon, 6 Jurojin, 7 Hotei. 

Shi-Tenno, the Four Heavenly Kings, who guard the world against 
the attacks of demons, each defending one quarter of the horizon. Their 
names are Jikoku, East (Sanskrit Dhritarashtra) ; Komoku, South 
(Virupdksha)) Zocho, West (VirudJiaka) ; and Tamon — also called Bisha- 
mon, — North (Vdisravana or Kuvera). Their images differ from those of 
the Ni-d by holding weapons in their hands, and generally trampling 
demons under foot. Moreover they are placed, not at the outer gate of 
temples, but at an inner one. 

Shozuka no Baba. See Jizo. 

Sukuna-Bikona, a microscopic god who aided Onamuji to establish 
his rule over the land of Izumo before the descent to earth of the 
ancestors of the Mikados. 

Susa-no-o, lit. " the Impetuous Male." The name of this deity is 
explained by the violent conduct which he exhibited towards his sister, the 
Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, whom he alarmed so terribly by his mad freaks 
that she retired into a cavern. Born from the nose of the Creator 
Izanagi, Susa-no-o is considered by some to be the God of the Sea, by 
others the God of the Moon. He was the ancestor of the gods or mon- 
arch s of the province of Izumo, who finally renounced their claims to 
sovereignty over any part of Japan in favour of the descendants of the 
Sun-Goddess. Susa-no-o is also styled Gczu Tenno, " the Ox-headed 
Emperor," — a name apparently derived from that of a certain mountain 
in Korea where he is supposed to have been worshipped. The temples 
dedicated to Susa-no-o are called Gion or Yasaka. The former are 
Buddhist or Ryobu Shinto ; the latter are pure Shinto shrines. 

Taishaku, the Brahminical god Indra. 

Tamon, see Anan. 

Ten, a title suffixed to the names of many Buddhist deities, and 
equivalent to the Sanskrit Diva. 

Tenjin is the name under which is apotheosised the great minister 
and scholar Sugawara-no-Michizane, who, having fallen a victim to 
calumny in A.D. 901, was degraded to the post of Vice-President of 
the Dazaifu, or Governor-Generalship of the island of Kyushu, at that 
time a usual form of banishment for illustrious criminals. He died 
in exile in A.D. 903, his death being followed by many portents and dis- 
asters to his enemies. He is worshipped as the God of Calligraphy, 
other names for him being Kan Shojo and Temmangu. He is repre- 
sented in the robes of an ancient court noble, and the temples dedicated 
to him bear in several places his crest of six stars. A recumbent image 
of a cow frequently adorns the temple grounds, because Michizane used to 
ride about on a cow in the land of his exile. A plum-tree is also often 
planted near the temple, that having been his favourite tree. Indeed, 




GODS OF LUCK (SHICHI FUKUJIN). 



50 Introduction: — Christian Mission Stations. 

tradition says that the most beautiful plum-tree in his garden at Kyoto 
flew after him through the air to Dazaifu. 

Texxix (Sanskrit, Apsaras), Buddhist angels — always of the female 
sex. They are represented floating in the air, clothed in bright-coloured 
robes that often end in long feathers like the tails of the bird of paradise, 
and playing on instruments of music. 

T6sh5gc, the name under which the great Shogun Ieyasu, also called 
Gongen Sama, is worshipped. It signifies " the Temple (or Prince) 
Illuminating the East," in allusion to the fact that Ieyasu's glory centred 
in Eastern Japan. 

TOYO-UKB-BiMB, also called Uke-mochi-no-Kami, the Shinto Goddess 
of Food or of the Earth. The Nihongi, one of the two principal sources of 
Japanese mythology and early history, says that the Sun-Goddess sent the 
Moon-God down from heaven to visit Uke-mochi-no-Kami, who, turning 
her face successively towards the earth, the sea, and the mountains, pro- 
duced from her mouth rice, fish, and game, which she served up to him at 
a banquet. The Moon-God took offence at her feeding him with unclean 
viands, and drawing his sword, cut off her head. On his reporting this 
act to the Sun-Goddess, the latter was very angry, and secluded herself 
from him for the space of a day and night. From the body of the 
murdered Earth sprang cattle and horses, millet, silkworms, rice, barley, 
and beans, which the Sun-Goddess decreed should thenceforth be the 
food of the human race. In the KojiJci version of the myth, it is 
Susa-no-o who slays the Goddess of Food, and there are other differences 
of detail. 

Yakusht Nyorai (Sanskrit, Blidishajyagurii), lit. "the Healing 
Buddha." His name is explained by reference to a prayer, in which he 
is called upon to heal in the next life the miserable condition of man's 
present existence. The images of this deity are scarcely to be dis- 
tinguished from those of Shaka. 

25. — Christian Mission Stations. 

The Roman Catholic Mission in Japan dates from the time of Saint 
Francis Xavier, and though Christianity was sternly repressed during the 
17th and 18th centuries and down to 1873, the embers continued to 
smoulder, especially in the island of Kyushu. The Catholic Church now 
has an Archbishop at Tokyo, and Bishops at Osaka, Nagasaki, and 
Hakodate, with a total following of over 44,000. 

The labours of the Protestant Missionaries commenced in 1859, and 
a network of mission stations now covers the greater portion of the 
Empire. Tokyo and the Open Ports are the head-quarters of most of 
the denominations, and are, for shortness' sake, not mentioned in the 
following list of mission stations, given for the benefit of travellers 
interested in Christian work. 

The Church of Christ in Japan {Nippon Itchi KyoTcwai), an amalga- 
mation of American and Scotch Presbyterian Churches, has the largest 
number of members, over 11,000. Stations :— Fukui, Hiroshima, Kana- 
zawa, Koohi, Kyoto, Morioka, Nagoya, Okazaki, Sapporo, Sendai, 
Tokushima, Ueno, Wakayama, Yamaguchi, Yokkaichi. 

The Kumi-ai Churches, in co-operation with the American Board's 
Mission, over 10,000 members. Stations: — Kumamoto, Kyoto, Maebashi, 
Matsuyama, Miyazaki, Okayama, Sendai, Tottori, Tsu. 

The Nippon Sci Ko/civai, including the missions of the Church of 
England and of the Protestant Episcopal Church of America, 4,000. 



Outline of Japanese History. 51 

Stations : — Aomori, Fukuoka, Fukushima, Fukuyama, Gifu, Kumamoto, 
Kushiro, Matsue, Nagoya, Nara, Sapporo, Tokushima, Yonago. 

American Methodist Episcopal Church, over 4,000. Stations :— Fuku- 
oka, Hirosaki, Hiroshima, Kagoshima, Matsuyama, Nagoya, Oita, 
Sendai, Uwajima, Yamaguchi, Yonezawa. 

Methodist Church of Canada, 1,900. Stations : — Fukui, Kanazawa, 
Kofu, Nagano, Shizuoka, Toyama. 

American Baptist Missionary Union, over 1,300. Stations : — Himeji, 
Nemuro, Sendai, Toyoura. 

The above stations are those at which foreign missionaries reside. 
Native pastors carry on the work at other places. Numerous smaller 
denominations, chiefly American, are also represented. 

The Orthodox Russian Church has a flourishing mission, whose head- 
quarters are at Tokyo. 

26. — Outline of Japanese History. 

Nothing is known concerning the origin of the Japanese people, or 
the period at which they reached their present habitat. The dawn of 
trustworthy history, in the 5th century after Christ, finds the Mikados 
— Emperors claiming descent from the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu — 
already governing all Japan except the North, which was still occupied 
by the Aino aborigines, and Chinese civilisation beginning to filter into 
what had apparently hitherto been a semi-barbarous land. The chief 
pioneers of this civilisation were Buddhist priests from Korea. From 
that time forward Japanese history consists, broadly speaking, in the 
rise of successive great families and chiefs, who, while always pro- 
fessing a nominal respect for the divine authority of the Mikado, 
practically usurp his power and are the de facto rulers of the country. 
By the end of the 12th century, the old absolutism had been converted 
into a feudalism, of which Yoritomo, the successful leader of the 
Minamoto family or clan, became the acknowledged head under the 
title of Shocjun, which closely corresponds in etymology and in mean- 
ing to the Latin Imperator. Thus was inaugurated the dual sj'stern of 
government which lasted down to the year 1868, — the Mikado supreme 
in name, but powerless and dwelling in a gilded captivity at the old 
capital Kyoto, the Shdgun with his great feudatories, his armed re- 
tainers, and his well-filled exchequer, ruling the whole empire from 
his new capital in Eastern Japan— first Kamakura, then Yedo. During 
the latter period of the nominal supremacy of the Minamoto family of 
Shoguns, the real power was in the hands of their chief retainers, the 
Hojo family, — the political arrangement thus becoming a triple one. 
The rule of the Hojo was rendered memorable by the repulse of the 
Mongol fleet sent by Kublai Khan to conquer Japan, since which time 
Japan has never been invaded by any foreign foe. The Ashikaga 
line of Shoguns grasped the power which had fallen from the H6jo T s 
hands, and distinguished themselves by their patronage of the arts. 
The second half of the 16th century was a period of anarchy, during 
which two great soldiers of fortune who were not Shoguns — Nobunaga 
and Hideyoshi — successively rose to supreme power. Hideyoshi even 
went so far as to conquer Korea and to meditate the conquest of China, 
an enterprise which was, however, interrupted by his death in A.D. 1598. 
Tokugawa Ieyasu, Hideyoshi's greatest general, then succeeded in making 
Japan his own, and founded a dynasty of Shoguns who ruled the land in 



52 Introduction: — Outline of Japanese History. 

profound peace from 1603 to 1868. Among the means resorted to for 
securing this end, were the ejection of the Catholic missionaries and the 
closing of the country to foreign trade. Nagasaki was the only place in 
the Empire at which any communication with the outer world was per- 
mitted, no European nation hut the Dutch was allowed to trade there, 
and even Dutch commerce was restricted within narrow limits. At last, 
in 1853, the government of the United States sent a fleet under the com- 
mand of Commodore Perry to insist on the abandonment of the Japanese 
policy of isolation. This act of interference from the outside gave the 
coup de grace to the Shogunate, which had previously been weakened by 
internal discontent. It fell, and in its fall dragged down the whole fabric 
of mediaeval Japanese civilisation. On the one hand, the Mikado was 
restored to the absolute power which had belonged to his ancestors cen- 
turies before. On the other, Europe anism (if one may so phrase it) 
became supreme in every branch of thought and activity. The natural 
outcome of this has been the Europeanisation of the monarchy itself. 
Not only has the Court adopted foreign manners and etiquette, — it has 
granted a Constitution modelled on that of Prussia ; and the Diet, as it is 
termed, meets yearly. The tendency of this body is to grow rapidly more 
and more radical. 

The following are the chief dates of Japanese history : — 

B.C. 

*-h /Accession of the first Mikado, Jimmu Tenno 660 

J-g-l A.D. 

£ "fi i Prince Yamato-take conquers S.W. and E. Japan . . 97-113 

^ffj Conquest of Korea by the Empress Jingo 200 

" \ First Chinese books brought to Japan 285 

Buddhism introduced from Korea 552 

Shotoku Taishi patronises Buddhism . . . . ; 593-621 

Government remodelled on Chinese bureaucratic plan . . . . 600-800 

Chinese calendar introduced 602 

Fujiwara family predominant 670-1050 

The Court resides at Nara 709-784 

First extant Japanese book published (Kojilci) 712 

Printing introduced 770 

Kyoto made the capital 794 

Invention of Hira-gava syllabary 809 

Struggle between the Taira and Minamoto clans 1156-1185 

Yoritomo establishes the Shogunate at Kamakura 1192 

Hojo family predominant 1205-1333 

Repulse of the Mongols 1271-1281 

Two rival lines of Mikaclos, the Northern and Southern Courts 1332-1392 

Ashikaga dynasty of Shoguns 1338-1565 

The Portuguese discover Japan 1542 

St. Francis Xavier arrives in Japan 1549 

First persecution of the Christians 15S7 

Yedo founded by Ieyasu 1590 

Hideyoshi invades Korea 1592-1598 

Battle of Seki-ga-hara 1600 

Tokugawa dynasty of Shoguns 1603-1868 

Japan closed and Christianity prohibited 1624 

The Dutch relegated to Deshima 1639 

Kaempfer visits Japan 1690-92 

Last eruption of Fuji 1707 



Celebrated Personages. 53 

Arrival of Commodore Perry 1853 

First treaty signed with the United States 1854 

Great earthquake at Yedo 1855 

First treaties with European Powers 1857-59 

Yokohama opened I . . . • 1858 

First Japanese embassy sent abroad 1860 

Bombardment of Shimonoseki 1864 

The Shogunate abolished and the Mikado restored 1868 

Civil war between Imperialists and partisans of the Shogun. . 1868-69 

The Mikado removes to Yedo (Tokyo) 1869 

Abolition of feudal system 1871 

Tokyo- Yokohama railway opened 1872 

Adoption of Gregorian calendar 1873 

Expedition to Formosa 1874 

The wearing of swords interdicted 1876 

Satsuma rebellion 1877 

New Codes published 1880-90 

Constitution proclaimed 1889 

First Diet met 1890 

Great earthquake at Gifu 1891 

27. — List of Celebrated Personages. 

The following list of celebrated personages referred to in this book, 
and likely to be mentioned by guides when explaining objects of historical 
or artistic interest, may be found useful. 

Akahito (flourished circa A.D. 700), one of the earliest great poets of 
Japan. His full name was Yamabe no Akahito. 

Antoku Texno, an ill-fated infant Mikado, who perished at sea in 
A.D. 1185, during the civil war waged between the Taira and Minamoto 
clans. 

Asaina Saburo (end of 12th century), one of Yoritomo's doughtiest 
retainers, was distinguished by almost incredible physical strength. He 
is represented in art as hurling great rocks with the same ease that he 
flings stalwart rivals, and as swimming with a live shark under each arm. 

Benkei, or Musashi-bo Benkei, was Yoshitsune's famous henchman. 
How many of Benkei's valorous achievements are historical, it would 
be hard to say. According to the current version, he was eight feet 
in height, strong as a hundred men, and had even in early years per- 
formed so many deeds of violence as to have been nicknamed Oni- 
iua/ca, "the Devil Youth." Having attempted to cut down Yoshitsune, 
then a mere stripling, on the Gojo Bridge in Kyoto, he found in him 
his master in the art of fencing, and was made to sue for quarter. So 
great was the veneration thus inspired in his breast, that he thenceforth 
attached himself to Yoshitsune's fortunes and died battling iu his 
cause. The fight between Yoshitsune and Benkei is a favourite subject 
with the artists of Japan. Another is the subterfuge by which Benkei 
made way for his master and their little band through one of the 
barriers where at that time all travellers were liable to be stopped. He 
pretended that he was a priest sent to collect subscriptions for the 
building of a new temple, and therefore privileged to travel free. The 
pictures represent him reading out his supposed ecclesiastical commission 
from a scroll to the barrier-keepers, who were too ignorant of letters to 
discover the feint. This story is the subject of a drama called Kanjin-cho. 



54 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages, 

Buson (1716-1783), a highly original and vigorous artist of the 
Chinese school. 

Cho Denstj (second half of 14th century), the greatest and most original 
painter of the Buddhist school, is termed by Anderson " the Fra Angelico 
of Japan." 

Date Masamune (1567-1636), Daimyo of Sendai, is chiefly remem- 
bered for the embassy which he despatched to the Pope and to the King 
of Spain in 1614 (Comp. Route 4, Section 6). Date was eminent as a 
warrior, a diplomat, and a patron of learning and art. 

Dengyo Daishi (flourished about A.D. 800) was the first Buddhist 
abbot of Hiei-zan. He made a long sojourn in China for the purpose of 
esoteric study, and brought back with hirn the doctrines of the Tendai 
sect. 

En no Sh5kaiiu was a famous Buddhist saint and miracle-worker of 
the 7th century, and the first human being to ascend Haku-san, Daisen, 
Tateyama, and others of Japan's highest mountains, it being part of his 
mission to bring all such remote and inaccessible places under the sway 
of Buddha. Having been slandered as a magician and condemned to 
death, he so fortified himself by the use of mystic signs and formulae that 
the swords of the executioners sent to behead him snapped in pieces ; but 
afterwards he flew away through the air, and was never again seen by 
mortal eyes. 

Eshin (942-1017), a Buddhist abbot who is famous as a sculptor. 

Forty-Seven Ronins. Their story, too long to be told here, will be 
found in Tilings Japanese. 

Go-Daigo Tenno (reigned 1319-1339) was a Mikado celebrated for his 
misfortunes. At the beginning of his reign, the throne and the nation 
were alike trampled under foot by the Hojo " Regents " at Kamakura, and 
his endeavour to shake oft their domination only resulted, after much 
shedding of blood, in his being taken prisoner and banished to the 
Oki Islands. When the Hojo fell in 1333 under the sword of the 
loyalist warrior Nitta Yoshisada, the Emperor Go-Daigo was recalled 
from exile. But the times were not ripe for the abolition of military rule., 
nor was Go-Daigo wise in his choice of counsellors after his restoraton. 
Ashikaga Takauji, who had posed as the champion of Imperial rights, 
desired nothing so much as to become Shogun himself, and bribed the 
Mikado's concubiiie Kado-ko to poison her lord's mind against those 
who had served him most faithfully, and even against his own son, Prince 
Moriyoshi, who was declared a rebel, cast into a dungeon at Kamakura, 
and there murdered. Go-Daigo repented of his folly and weakness when 
it was too late. Takauji left Kyoto, and the army sent to smite him 
received such a crushing defeat that Go-Daigo was forced to seek safety 
inflight. Thereupon Takauji set another Mikado on the throne. But as 
Go-Daigo continued to be recognised by many as the rightful sovereign, 
the Mikadoate was split into two rival branches, called the Southern 
(legitimate) and the Northern (usurping) Courts. After sixty years of 
strife and misery, the Northern Court triumphed in 1392, the represen- 
tative of the Southern dynasty handing over to it the Imperial regalia. 
Go-Daigo perished at an early period of the struggle. His Court — if we 
may so call the mountain fastness where he mostly encamped — was at 
Yoshino, whose position to the South of Kyoto was the origin of the 
epithet " Southern " applied to it by native historians. 

Gyogi Bosatsu (670-749), a Korean by birth, and a Buddhist abbot 
and saint, is the subject of many artistic fictions. He is credited not only 



Celebrated Personages, 55 

with, the invention of the potter's wheel, which was certainly used in 
Japan before his time, but with a number of important wood-carvings and 
other works of art. The ware called after him, Gyogi-yaJci is earthen- 
ware, — dark, glossy, very solid, having wave-lines in the interior, and a 
pattern resembling the impression of matting on the outside. 

Hachiman Taro, lit. the First-Born of the God of War, was a famous 
general of the end of the 11th century, whose real name was Minamoto no 
Yoshiie, and whose vigorous personality created the pre-eminence of the 
Minamoto family. He it was who conquered Northern Japan (the part 
beyond Sendai), and brought those hitherto barbarous provinces into 
permanent subjection to the Imperial sway. Artists often depict an 
episode in his career which showed his skill as a strategist, namely, his 
discovery of an ambush among the rushes which he inferred from the 
disturbed flight of the wild-geese overhead. Like many other turbulent 
spirits of that time, he forsook the w r orld and became a Buddhist monk 
at the approach of old age. 

Hidari Jingoeo (1594-1634), Japan's greatest carver in wood, vvas a 
simple carpenter whose nickname of Hidari arose from his being left- 
handed. Among the best known of his works, are the carved gateway of 
the Nishi Hongwanji temple in Kyoto, the ramma, or ventilating panels, 
of the principal apartments in the same temple, and three carvings, — two 
of elephants after designs by Kano Tan-yu, and one of a sleeping cat, — in 
the mortuary chapel of Ieyasu at Nikko. The notice attracted by his 
labours was so great that the architectural wood-carvers, whose artistic 
efforts had previously been limited to the execution of mechanical designs 
and conventional flowers, now came to be regarded as a body distinct 
from the carpenters to whom they had hitherto been affiliated. 

Hidetoshi (1536 — 1598), commonly known as the Taiko Hideyoshi — 
the word Taiko being a title indicative of exalted rank — has sometimes 
been called the Napoleon of Japan. Of low birth and so ugly as to earn 
the nickname of " Monkey," Hideyoshi worked his way up by sheer will, 
hard fighting, and far-sighted ability, to the position of Nobunaga's most 
trusty lieutenant ; and when that ruler died in 1582, Hideyoshi, having 
slain his chief enemies and captured Kyoto, became practically monarch 
of Japan w 7 ith the title of Regent (Kivavwaku), w r hich till then had never 
been accorded to any but the highest nobility. Hideyoshi carried out 
many w r ise measures of internal policy, such as financial reform, the 
improvement of the great cities of Kyoto and Osaka, and the encourage- 
ment of maritime trade. He was also more merciful to his foes and 
rivals than his predecessor Nobunaga had been. His greatest failing was 
the vulgar ambition of the parvenu. His dream was to conquer China and 
become Emperor of the whole East. As a first step towards this, he sent 
an army across the straits to Korea under command of the celebrated 
generals Kato Kiyomasa and Konishi Yukinaga — the latter a Christian, 
as were many of the soldiers of the expedition. Korea was ruined, and 
Japan nowise benefited. Hideyoshi's death resulted in the withdrawal of 
the Japanese troops from the peninsula, and in the speedy overthrow of 
his own family power which he had hoped to render hereditary. 

Hitomaru (flourished circa A. D. 700) w 7 as one of Japan's earliest 
great poets, and the rival of Akahito. His full name was Kakinomoto no 
Hitomaru. 

Iemitsu (1604-1651), the third Shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, in- 
herited the administrative ability of his grandfather Ieyasu, and devoted 
his peaceful reign to perfecting the system of government established by 



56 Introduction: — Celebrated Personages. 

the latter, including the elaborate system of espionage touching which early 
European writers on Japan have so much to say. To him is due the rule 
according to which all the Daimyos were obliged to reside during half the 
year in Yedo, and to leave their families there as hostages during the 
other half. It was also Iemitsu who suppressed Christianity as 
dangerous to the state, and closed up the country against all foreigners 
except the Dutch and Chinese, who were permitted to trade at Nagasaki 
under humiliating conditions. In fact, it was Iemitsu who consolidated 
what we call " Old Japan." His tomb is at Nikko near that of Ieyasu. 

Ieyasu (1542-1616), one of the greatest generals and altogether the 
greatest ruler that Japan has ever produced, was a Samurai of the pro- 
vince of Mikawa, and a scion of thb great family of Minamoto. His own 
surname was Tokugawa. Having served under both Nobunaga and the 
Taiko Hideyoshi, he profited by the latter's death in 1598 to make war 
on his infant son Hideyori, seized the great castle of Osaka, burnt the 
Taiko's celebrated palace of Momoyama at Fushimi, and finally, in the 
year 1600, defeated all his enemies at the battle of Seki-ga-hara, a small 
village in the province of Omi, now a station on the Tokaido Railway. 
Meanwhile he had, in 1590, moved his own head-quarters from Shizuoka, 
where they had been for many years, to Yedo, then an unimportant fish- 
ing-village, which he chose on account of the strategic advantages of its 
position. In 1603 he obtained from the faineant Court of Kyoto the title 
of Shogun, which was borne by his descendants during two and a half cen- 
turies of unbroken peace, till Commodore Perry's arrival in 1853 led to the 
revolution of 1868, and to the break-up of Japanese feudalism and dualism. 
The statecraft which caused so long a reign of peace under one dynasty to 
take the place of the secular struggles between petty warring chieftains, 
consisted principally in maintaining a balance of power whereby the rivalries 
of the greater Daimyos were played off against each other, and in the an- 
nexation to the Shdgun's own domain, or to those of his nearest relatives, of 
large strips of territory in all portions of the Empire. These served as 
coignes of vantage, whence, in those days of difficult communication, the 
actions of each Daimyo could more easily be controlled. Ieyasu held in 
his own grasp all the military resources of the country, and forced all the 
Daimyos to regard themselves as his feudatories. He likewise had the 
Court of Kyoto strictly guarded, — nominally as a protection for the sacred 
Mikado against rebel foes, but in reality to prevent His Majesty, who 
still retained the semblance of Imperial power, from endeavouring to 
shake off the fetters which made him a passive instrument in the Shogun's 
hands. Ieyasu furthermore built powerful strongholds, made new high- 
ways, established a system of posts, and promulgated laws, which — if we 
accept the theory of paternal government alike in politics and in the 
family— were very wise, and which were in any case far in advance of 
anything that Japan had known before. When the government had 
been established on a firm footing in 1605, Ieyasu followed the usual 
Japanese custom of abdicating in favour of his son . He retired to Shizuoka, 
and spent the evening of his life in encouraging the renaissance of Japa- 
nese literature which had just begun. To his munificence is owing the 
editio princeps of many an important work. Ieyasu was first buried at 
Kuno-zan, not far from Shizuoka, in a beautiful shrine on a castle-like 
eminence overlooking the sea. In the year 1617, his remains were re- 
moved to their present still grander resting-place at Nikko. The dynasty 
of Shogun s founded by Ieyasu is called the Tokugawa dynasty, from the 
surname of the family. 



Celebrated Personages. 57 

Ishikawa Goemon (end of 16th century), the most notorious of 
Japanese robbers, is credited with having possessed the physical strength 
of thirty ordinary men. Being at last captured at the age of thirty-seven, 
he and his young son Ichiro were condemned to be boiled to death in a 
cauldron of oil, which sentence was carried out in the dry bed of the 
Kamogawa at Kyoto. In accordance with custom, the criminal com- 
posed a death-song, which ran as follows : 

Ishikazva ya 

Hama no masago wa 
Tsukuru to mo, 

To ni nusiibito no 

Tane iva tsukimaji. 

which may be rendered thus, " Though the stony-bedded rivers (ishi-fcatva, 
a pun on his own name) and the sand on the sea-shore come to an end, 
the line of thieves shall never come to an end." 

Iwasa Matahei (16th century) was the originator of the UJciyo-e 
Ryu, or "popular school" of Japanese art, which, abandoning the pre- 
scribed subjects and conventional routine of the classical schools, under- 
took to paint life as it is. 

Jikaku Daishi (A.D. 794-864), a celebrated Buddhist abbot. Like 
many others of his time and profession, he visited China in search of 
religious and magical lore. 

Jimmu Tenno, that is, the Emperor Jimmu, is accounted by the 
Japanese annalists the first human sovereign of their country, which had 
till then been ruled over by the Shinto gods. Jimmu Tenno was himself 
descended from the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, and consequently semi- 
divine. The orthodox account of his career is that, starting from Kyushu 
in the extreme West of Japan, he rowed up the Inland Sea with a band 
of devoted warriors, subduing the aborigines as he went along, in virtue 
of the commission which he had received from heaven. After much 
fighting in what are now the provinces of Bizen and Yamato, and many 
miraculous occurrences, he died at the age of one hundred and thirty- 
-seven, and was buried at Kashiwabara in Yamato, where his capital had 
been established after the conquest. The date assigned for his accession 
is the 11th February, 660 B.C., the anniversary of which day has been 
made a public holiday during the present reign, and was chosen for the 
promulgation of the new Constitution, evidently with the desire to 
strengthen the popular belief in the authenticity and continuity of Japa- 
nese history. Jimmu Tenno and his successors during ma.ny centuries 
have, however, been condemned as myths by competent European in- 
vestigators, though it is allowed that the Jimmu legend may possibly be 
an echo of some actual invasion of Central Japan by Western tribes of 
adventurers in very early days. 

Jingo Kogo, that is, the Empress Jingo, ruled over Japan, according 
to the native annalists, from A.D. 201 to 269, when she died at the age 
of one hundred ; but xiston, the greatest authority on early Japanese 
history, while not denying the existence of this Japanese Semiramis, 
relegates most of her great deeds to the realm of fable. The chief legend 
connected with her is that of the conquest of Korea, to which country 
she crossed over with a gallant fleet, aided by the fishes both great and 
small and by a miraculous wave, and whence she returned only after 



58 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages. 

receiving the abject submission of the King. During _the three years of 
her absence in Korea, she held in her womb her son Ojin who is worship- 
ped as Hachiman, the God of War. Next she turned her attention east- 
wards, and, going in her fleet up the Inland Sea, smote the rebels of 
Yarnato, as Jimmu Tenno is said to have done before her. Indeed, it has 
been suspected that the two legends are but slightly varying versions of 
the same story. 

Jocho, the most original of Japan's mediaeval sculptors, flourished 
during the reign of the Emperor Go-Ichijo (A.D. 1017-1036). He carved 
Buddhist subjects. 

Josetsu (flourished about A.D. 1400), was a priest and celebrated 
painter. Anderson calls him the Japanese Cimabue. 

Kaxo, the family name of a celebrated school of painters, which 
originated in the 15th century and is not yet extinct. Its manner, which 
appears highly conventional to Europeans, is classical in the eyes of the 
Japanese. The greatest of these painters was Kano Alotonobu (born 1477). 
Other noteworthy members cf the family were K. Slioei, K. Eitoku, and 
K. Sanraku (16th century), K. Sansetsu, and especially K. Tan-yu. 
K. Naonobu, K. Yasunobu, K. Toun, and K. Tsunenobu were also dis- 
tinguished. All these names, from Sansetsu onwards, belong to the 17th 
century. The Japanese custom of adoption is the key to the apparent 
mystery of so many men similarly gifted arising in one family. 

Kato Kiyomasa was one of Hideyoshi's generals in the invasion of 
Korea at the end of the 16th century, and a fierce enemy of the Christians. 
He is one of the most popular Japanese heroes, and is worshipped — 
chiefly by the Nichiren sect of Buddhists — under the name of Sei Shoko. 

Kiyoatori (1118—1181), whom Satow calls the Warwick of Japanese 
history, was head of the great house of Taira during its struggles with the 
rival house of Minamoto, and during the brief period of triumph which 
preceded its final overthrow at Dan-no-ura. From the year 1156 until 
his death, Kiyomori was all-powerful, engrossing all the highest offices of 
state for his own kinsmen, and governing the Palace through his kins- 
women where boy Mikados succeeded each other like shadows on the 
throne. To suit his own convenience, he moved the capital for a time 
from Kyoto to Fukuwara near the site of modern K5be — an act of high- 
handed autocracy which was bitterly resented by the courtiers and the 
nobility, whose habits were interfered with and their resources taxed by the 
double move. While irritating the upper classes by his nepotism and over- 
bearing demeanour, he ground down the common people by his exactions, 
and endeavoured utterly to exterminate the Taira clan. The famous 
beauty Tokiwa, handmaiden to Yoshitomo, was forced to yield to his em- 
braces in order to save the life of her infant, the future hero Yoshitsune ; 
and every woman that pleased his fancy had to minister to his lust. His 
eldest son Shigemori remonstrated with him in vain. But the storm did 
not break in his time. He died in his bed, leaving his whole house to 
perish four years later in a sea of blood. 

Kobo Daishi (774 — 834), the most famous of all Japanese Buddhist 
saints, was noted equally as preacher, painter, sculptor, calligraphist, and 
traveller. Had his life lasted six hundred years instead of sixty, he 
could hardly have graven all the images, scaled all the mountain peaks, 
confounded all the sceptics, wrought all the miracles, and performed all 
the other feats with which he is popularly credited. B} r 6bu-ga-ura, near 
the modern temple of Kompira in Shikoku, was his birth-place. His 
conception was miraculous, and he came into the world with his hands 



Celebrated Personages. 



59 




KOBO DAISHI. 



folded as if in prayer. He entered the 
priesthood in A.D. 793. Various legends 
are told of the trials to which he was 
subjected by evil spirits during his novi- 
tiate. At Cape Muroto in Tosa, dragons 
and other monsters appeared out of the 
sea and disturbed him in his prayers. 
These he drove away by repeating mystic 
formulae called Darani, and by spitting 
at them the rays of the evening star 
which had flown from heaven into his 
mouth. At a temple built by him on 
this spot, he was constantly annoyed by 
hobgoblins who forced hirn to enter into 
conversation ; but he finally got rid of 
them by surrounding himself with a con- 
secrated enclosure into which they were 
unable to enter against his will. Having 
been sent to China as a student in 801, 
much as promising Japanese youths are 
sent to Europe and America to-day, he 
became the favourite disciple of the great abbot Hui-kwo (Jap. Kei-kwa), 
by whom he was charged to carry back to Japan the tenets of the Yoga- 
charya, or, as it is called in Japan, Shingon sect, which occupies itself 
greatly with mystic formularies, magic spells, and incantations. Kobo 
Daishi returned home in 806, bringing with him a large quantity of 
Buddhist books and devotional objects, and in 810 was appointed abbot 
of Toji in Kyoto. A few years later he founded the great monastery 
of Koya-san, where his last days were spent at the close of a life of 
incessant toil. It is asserted that he did not die, but merely retired into 
a vaulted tomb, where he still awaits the coming of Miroku, the Buddhist 
Messiah. Among the innumerable great deeds with which this saint is 
credited, is the invention of the Hiragana syllabary. It should be noted 
that the name Kobo Daishi (lit. the Great Teacher Spreading abroad the 
Law) is a posthumous title conferred on him by the Emperor Daigo in 
the year 921. His name while alive was Kukai. 

Kojima Takanoei, also called Bingo no Saburo, was a high-born 
warrior of the 11th century, celebrated for his romantic loyalty to the 
Emperor Go-Daigo. "When this ill-fated monarch was being carried off to 
exile by the minions of the usurping house of Hojo, the faithful young- 
soldier endeavoured to rescue him on the road. Having failed not onh; 
in this, but even in gaining access for a moment to his master's person, 
he hit on a method of communication characteristically esthetic and 
Japanese. Stealing at night into the garden of the inn where the Im- 
perial party had halted, he scraped bare part of the bark of a cherry-tree, 
and on it wrote the following line of poetry 



% % m % m 

which, being interpreted, signifies 



m * m m « 



" O Heaven ! destroy not Kosen, 
For he is not without a Hanrei !" 

the allusion being to an ancient Chinese King, who, after twenty years of 
warfare, was at length helped to victory by the prowess of a faithful 



60 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages. 

vassal. When day broke, the soldiers, seeing the writing, bnt being too 
ignorant to decipher it, showed it to their Imperial captive, who at once 
understood that it referred to himself and was meant to intimate that 
faithful friends were at hand. The choice of a cherry-tree was not the 
least significant part of the deed ; for that tree is in Japan the emblem of 
of patriotism and loyalty. Later on, Kojima died fighting for his sover- 
eign, and artists still love to reproduce that scene of his life in which 
loyalty and delicacy were so well combined. 

Komachi (full name Ono no KomacJii), the most famous of Japan's 
many poetesses, seems to have flourished in the second half of the 9th 
century, and left a lasting impression on the national mind by her beauty, 
her talents, and the miserable old age which was the reward of her pride 
and frailty ; but nothing certain is known of her career. Every branch 
of art borrows motives from Komachi's life. " She is shown," saj 7 s 
Anderson, "in her days of* pride and luxury, drawiDg rain down upon 
the parched earth bj the numbers of her magic verse, bringing to 
shame the rival who sought to fasten upon her the stigma of plagiarism 
and falsehood ; courted by the noblest of the brilliant band that sur- 
rounded the throne — and again, without a step of transition, old, 
enfeebled, clad in unclean rags, begging her way from door to door until 
she died, rotted, and became the food of dogs on the highway — a moral 
illustration of the Buddhistic text, All is vanity, that the artist never 
tires of repeating, and sometimes elaborates with sickening detail." 

Kobin (latter half of 17th century) was a famous lacquer artist and 
painter. 

Kose no Kanaoka (second half of 9th century) was the first great 
Japanese painter. A number of quaint legends testify to the effect which 
his skill produced on the minds of his contemporaries. 

Kumagai Naozane, a warrior of the latter half of the 12th century, took 
his surname from the town of Kumagai in the province of Musashi, which 
he received as a fief from Yoritomo. The most striking incident in his life 
was his encounter with Atsumori at the battle of Ichi-no-tani not far from 
Kobe, in the year 1184. Atsumori was a delicate young nobleman of the 
Taira clan, scarcely sixteen years of age, who, when the city of Fuku- 
wara had been taken by the Minamoto, sought safety like the rest of his 
kindred in flight on board a junk, but being pursued by Kumagai Nao- 
zane, had to fight for his life. He succumbed to the veteran, who, tear- 
ing off his helmet the better to cut off his head, beheld the youthful face 
and was struck with pity and sympathy, his own son having fallen earlier 
in the day. He reflected, however, that to spare the boy's life might only 
cause him to fall into more ruthless hands. So partly out of compassion, 
and partly for the sake of his own reputation, he resolved to carry out his 
first purpose. Atsumori submitted to his fate with heroic courage, while 
Naozane, overwhelmed with bitter remorse, vowed never more to bear 
arms, but to forsake the world and spend the remainder of his days in 
praying for the soul of the fair youth whose life he had so unwillingly 
taken. He restored to Atsumori's father the head and the other spoils 
which he had won, paid after the conclusion of the war went to Kyoto, 
and took monastic vows in the temple of Kurodani, where numerous relics 
of him are shown to this day. The story has been dramatised under the 
title of Atsumori. 

Kusuxoki M asashige, also called Nanko (first half of 14th century), 
is celebrated for his courage and for his unswerving loyalty to the throne. 
Had the Emperor Go-Daigo listened to his advice, the rising power of the 



Celebrated Personages. 61 

house of Ashikaga might have been crushed. As ifc was, Masashige was 
unequally pitted against a superior foe ; and when his army had been 
annihilated at the battle of Minato-gawa in 1336, he and a little band of 
personal followers committed harakiri rather than surrender. A scene 
which artists often represent is Masashige, about to die, presenting to his 
son the ancestral roll in order to stimulate him to deeds worthy of the 
family renown. 

Masakado (killed A.D. 940) was the most celebrated of Japanese 
rebels, and the only one who ever went so far as to arrogate to himself 
the title of Mikado. For details, see under Narita (Route 17), and the 
temple of Kanda Myojin in Tokyo. 

Mito Komon (1622-1700), second Prince of Mito, a near relative 
of the Tokugawa Shoguns, helped greatly though unconsciously to the 
final overthrow of their house, and of the whole feudal system a century 
and a half later, by means of his celebrated historical work, the Dai 
Nihon Shi, which first caused men to suspect that the Shoguns were 
usurpers, and the Mikados the only rightful rulers of Japan. He also 
patronised the new school of Shinto literati, whose studies led them, and 
finally the majority of the educated public, to endeavour to bring back 
the state of things supposed to have existed in pre-Buddhistic and pre- 
feudal days. Popular tradition ascribes to this prince many fanciful under- 
takings, such as the endeavour to raise the great bell from the river at 
Konodai, and to find the bottom of the Kaname-ishi at Kashima, which 
is supposed to be the pivot of the world. 

Murasaki Shikibu (flourished circa A.D. 1000) was a Court lad}-, 
and the most celebrated of Japanese romance-writers. Her chief work 
is the Genji Monogatari. 

Narihira (A.D. 825-880), the Don Juan of ancient Japan. 

Nitta Yoshisada, a warrior of the 14th century, famed for his 
courage and for his devotion to the Mikado's cause against the usurping 
families of Hojo and Ashikaga. An incident in his life which artists love 
to pourtray is that related at the end of the description of Kamakura in 
Route 2. 

Nobuznaga,* properly Ota Nohunaga (1534-15S2), was a warrior who, 
in the general scramble for land and power which went on in the latter 
half of_the 16th century, gained possession of the provinces of Suruga, 
Mino, Omi, Mikawa, Ise, and Echizen. Having next taken Kyoto, he 
built the stronghold of rsijo, and sided with Ashikaga Yoshiaki, who by 
his influence was made Shogun in 1558. Six years later the two quarrel- 
led. Nobunaga arrested and deposed Yoshiaki ; and the power of the 
Ashikaga family, which had lasted two hundred and thirty-eight years, 
came to an end. By the aid of his generals Hideyoshi and leyasu, he 
brought large portions of the Empire under his sway, but never obtained 
the title of Shogun, which custom had limited to members of the 
Minamoto family, whereas Nobunaga was of Taira descent. Though a 
great soldier, Nobunaga lacked the administrative ability to follow up 
and consolidate the advantages gained in war. Consequently, when he 
was assassinated by an offended subordinate named Akechi, his power 
died with him. Nobunaga was a bitter foe to Buddhism. Among 
his many acts of violence, was the destruction of the great monastery of 
Hiei-zan near Kyoto and of the Hongwanji at Osaka, on both which 
occasions frightful scenes of massacre ensued. On the other hand, he 

* This article is taken almost verbally from G-riffis's 31iJcado 1 s Empire, Chap, 
XXIII. * 



62 



Introduction : — Celebrated Personages. 



encouraged the Christians ; but it is not to be supposed that a man of his 
stamp did so out of any appreciation of their theological tenets. 

Nichiren was born at Kominato in the province of Awa, at the 
mouth of Yedo Bay, in A.D. 1222. At the age of twelve, he became an 
acolyte in the Shingon sect of Buddhisfcs, and was admitted to the 
priesthood three years later. Shortly afterwards, he adopted the name 
by which he is known to history. It signifies " lotus of the sun," and is 
derived from a drearn which came to his mother of the sun on a lotus-flower, 
in consequence of which she became pregnant. He acquired a thorough 
knowledge of the whole Buddhist canon by means of a miracle, and met in 
the course of his studies with words which he converted into the formula 
Namu Myoho Renge Kyo, " Oh, the Scripture of the Lotus of the Wonderful 
Law ! " — a formula which is still constantly used as an invocation by his 
followers, and which is to be seen carved on stones all over the country 
in the eccentric calligraphy (hige-daimoku) represented in the illustration. 

Having excited the wrath of the 
Regent Tokiyori by the unspar- 
ing manner in which he attacked 
other sects, he was banished to the 
peninsula of Izu in 1261, but par- 
doned soon after. Ten years later, 
his enemies persuaded the Regent 
Tokimune that Nichiren' s doctrines 
tended to subvert the state. He was 
seized and thrown into a cave with 
his six chief disciples, and condemned 
to be beheaded the same night, but 
when brought to the place of execu- 
tion, was saved by a miracle, the 
executioner's sword failing to act 
on the head of so holy a man ; and 
Tokimune, warned in a dream, 
spared his life. Nichiren was, how- 
ever, banished to the island of Sado 
in the North, but was permitted in 
1274 to return to Kamakura, then 
the military capital of Eastern Japan. 
He next retired to live among the 
mountains of Minobu in a hut, which 
he quitted in order to take up his 
abode with the lord of the manor, 
Nambu Rokuro, a devotee so zealous 
hige-daimoku. that he bestowed on the saint and his 

sect forever all the lands in his possession. As crowds of disciples flocked 
to Nichiren for instruction in the faith, he erected a small shrine which 
became the nucleus of the now famous monastery of Minobu. In 1282, 
feeling that death was approaching, he removed from Minobu to Ikegami, 
near the modern city of Tokyo, and there died. His body was burnt on 
the spot and tbe bones were conveyed to Minobu, only a small portion be- 
ing retained at Ikegami as a precious relic. His zeal and his intolerance 
appear to have been inherited by his spiritual children, — the Nichiren- 
shu, or Hokke-shu, as the sect derived from him is also called, having 
pushed the odium theologicum to a degree otherwise rare in Japan. The 
chief outward and visible— or rather audible— sign of their temples is 




Celebrated Personages. 63 

the drum, which the devotees beat for hours together to keep time to 
their chanting of the sacred formula Namu Myolio Benge Kyo. Nichiren's 
crest is the orange-blossom (tachibana). 

Oguei JECangwan (15th century) and his faithful wife or mistress, 
Terute Hime belong rather to romance than to sober history. Robbers 
having plotted to drug him with sake and murder him during the 
night, she — at that time one of the courtesans of the village, who had 
been invited to assist in the revels— informed him of the plot. 
Vaulting upon the back of a wild horse found in a thicket close by, he 
escaped to Fujisawa on the Tokaido, where his tomb and Terute Hime's 
are still shown. On another occasion, his enemies decoyed him into a 
poisonous bath which produced leprosj^ ; but Terute Hime wheeled him in 
a barrow from Xamakura all the way to the hot springs of Yunomine in 
Kishu, where a single week's bathing restored him to_health and strength. 

Ok3:o (1733 — 1795), properly called Maruyama Okyo, was the founder 
of the Shijo school of painters, whose watchword was fidelity to nature, 
though, as Anderson points out, their practice was far less radical than 
their theory, and did not lead them actually to reject the conventionalities 
of their predecessors. Okyo was specially successful in his representation 
of birds and fishes. 

Saig5, a samurai of the Satsuma clan, whose youth coincided with 
the closing years of the Japanese ancien regime, conspicuously dis- 
tinguished himself on the Imperialist side. Before the triumph of the 
latter, he was thrice exiled to Oshima in Loochoo, as a political suspect ; 
but after the revolution of 1868, to the success of which he contributed 
so materially as to earn the title of Commander-in-Chief of the Imperial 
forces, he became one of the most important personages in the state. 
His programme, however, was no radical one. When his colleagues in 
the government showed that their aim was not, as had at first been 
asserted, a return to the Japan of early historic days, but the complete 
Europeanisation of the country and the abandonment of national 
usages and traditions, Saigo broke with them, and retired to the city of 
Kagoshima in Satsuma, where he founded a military school to which 
all the ardent youth of Satsuma and Osumi soon began to flock. The 
influence of this school precipitated the inevitable conflict between the 
old and the new order of ideas. It broke out in 1877, and is known to 
history as the Satsuma Rebellion. After a struggle of several months, 
the Imperialists triumphed, and Saigo himself fell on the 24th September, 
as did the whole of the little band of five hundred that had remained 
faithful to him till the end. Saigo still lives in popular esteem as the 
most perfect example of a brave warrior and a true patriot ; and even the 
Imperial Court now reveres his memory, the ban of degradation having 
been removed in 1890, and the dead Commander-in-Chief re-instated post- 
humously in all his honours. The common people say that Saigo's spirit 
has gone to dwell in one of the brightest stars of heaven. The visit of the 
Czarewitch to Japan in 1891 helped to give credence to a w T ild notion 
according to which Saigo had, like Yoshitsune centuries before, escaped 
to Siberia. 

Saigyo Hoshi (died A.D. 1198) was an eccentric monk and famous 
poet of noble birth. 

Sesshij (1421-1507) was the greatest Japanese artist of the Chinese 
school of painting. Anderson says of him : 

" It is difficult for a European to estimate Sesshu at his true value. . . 
Notwithstanding the boast of the artist that the scenery of China was 



64 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages. 

his only teacher, and the credit bestowed upon him by his admirers of 
having invented a new style, he has in no respect departed from the 
artificial rules accepted by his fellow painters. He was, however, an 
original and powerful artist, and his renderings of Chinese scenery 
bear evidences of local study that we look for in vain in the works of bis 
successors. The grand simplicity of his landscape compositions, their 
extraordinary breadth of design, the illusive suggestions of atmosphere 
and distance, and the all-pervading sense of poetry, demonstrate a genius 
that could rise above all defects of theory in the principles of his art." 

Shinean Shoxin (1173-1262) was the founder oi the powerful Ikko 
sect of Buddhists, also called Shinshu or Monto, whose splendid 
temples, known by the name of Hongwanji or Mouze/ci, are among^the 
chief sights of the greater Japanese cities. - Hongwanji means " the 
Monastery of the Real Vow," in allusion to the vow made by Amida that 
he would not accept Buddhahood unless salvation were made attain- 
able for all who should sincerely desire to be born into his kingdom, 
and signify their desire by invoking his name ten times. It is upon a 
passage in a Buddhist scripture where this vow is recorded that the peculiar 
doctrine of the sect is based, its central idea being that man is to be saved 
by faith in the merciful power of Amida, and not by works or vain repeti- 
tion of prayers. For this reason, and also because its priests are permitted 
to marry, this sect has sometimes been called the Protestantism of Japan. 
In the year 1602, political reasons caused a split in the sect, which since 
that time has been divided into a Western and an Eastern branch — 
Nishi Hongwanji and Higashi Hongivanji, — each branch owning a temple 
in every considerable city. Shinran Shonin was descended from the 
Imperial family. The abbots of the sect therefore bear the title of 
Monzeki, or Imperial Offspring, while the walls enclosing its temples are 
allowed the snji-kabe, or suji-bei, — striped plaster ornamentation, other- 
wise reserved for buildings inhabited by Imperial princes. During the 
present reign, Shinran Shonin has been honoured by the bestowal of the 
posthumous title of Kenshin Daishi, that is " the Great Teacher who Sees 
the Truth." 

Shotoku Taishi (572-621), the Constantine of Japanese Buddhism, 
was son of the Emperor Yoniei and regent under the Empress Suiko, 
but never himself actually ascended the throne. He founded a large 
number of monasteries, framed a code of laws, and is said to have 
introduced the use of the calendar into Japan. He is also the reputed 
author of numerous paintings and sculptures, which Anderson, however, 
inclines to consider apocryphal. 

Shu bun (15th century), one of the greatest Japanese painters of the 
Chinese school. 

Soga Kyodai, that is, the Soga Brethren Juro and Goio, have re- 
mained national heroes on account of the pious vendetta which they 
executed in the hunting-camp of the Shogun Yoritomo at the base of 
Fuji, in the year 1193, on Kudo Suketsune, the murderer of their father. 
Juro perished in the attempt, while Goro was captured, brought before 
Yoritomo, and condemned to have his head hacked ofE with a blunt sword. 
Together with their names_has been preserved that of Tora Gozen, a 
courtesan of the town of Oiso on the Tokaido, who was the younger 
brother's mistress, and who, no less faithful than fair, aided him in his re- 
venge and became a nun after his death. 

Sosen (17-17-1821), an artist of the Shijo school, famed for his paint- 
ings of monkeys. 



Celebrated Personages. 65 

Takeda Shingen (see Rte. 26). 

Takenouchi no Sukuxe, the Methuselah of Japan, is said to have 
lived two hundred and fifty -live years (according to others, three hundred 
and sixty years), and to have served six successive Mikados. His birth 
is supposed to have taken place about 200 B.C. 

Tamura Maro (died A.D. 811), the bravest and most successful 
generalissimo (Shogim) of his time. He subdued the Amos who then 
inhabited the Northern portion of the Main Island almost as far South 
as Sendai. 

Toba Sojo, an abbot of the 13th century, is remembered as the origi- 
nator of a quaint, coarse style of picture called Toba-e. 

Tori Busshi (early in the 7th Century), the first great Japanese 
sculptor. He was of Chinese descent and carved Buddhist images. Some 
of his works still survive at the temple of Horyuji near Nara. 

Unkei, a famous mediaeval sculptor of Buddhist images. 

Urashima Taro, the Japanese Rip Van Winkle, is said by the 
national historians to have left Japan in A.D. 477, and to have returned 
in 825. His legend takes a hundred forms. The following is not 
only the simplest, but the most ancient, being translated as literally as 
possible from a ballad contained in the Man-yo-shu, an anthology which 
dates from A.D. 760. The poem itself is probably far older : — 

THE FISHER-BOY URASHIMA. 

'Tis Spring, and the mist conies stealing 

O'er Suminoye's shore, 
And I stand by the sea-side musing 

On the days that are no more. 

I muse on the old-world story, 

As the boats glide to and fro, 
Of the fisher-boy Urashima, 

Who a-nshing loved to go, — 

How he came not back to the village 

Though sev'n suns had risen and set, 

But rowed on past th% bounds of ocean, 
And the Sea-God's daughter met ; 

How they pledged their faith to each other, 

And came to the Evergreen Land, 
And entered the Sea-God's palace 

So lovingly hand in hand, 

To dwell for aye in that country, 

The ocean-maiden and he, — 
The country where youth and beauty 

Abide eternally. 

But the foolish boy said, ' To-morrow 

I'll come back with thee to dwell ; 
But I have a word to my father, 

A word to my mother to tell.' 



66 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages. 

The maiden answered, * A casket 

I give into thine hand ; 
And if that thou hopest truly 

To conie back to the Evergreen Land, 

' Then open it not, I charge thee ! 

Open it not, I beseech ! ' — 
So the boy rowed home o'er the billows 

To Smninoye's beach. 

But where is his native hamlet ? 

Strange hamlets line the strand. 
Where is his mother's cottage ? 

Strange cots rise on either hand. 

' What ! in three short years since I left it,' 

He cries in his wonder sore, 
1 Has the home of my childhood vanished ? 

Is the bamboo fence no more ? 

1 Perchance if I open the casket 

Which the maiden gave to me, 
My home and the dear old village 

Will come back as they used to be.' 

And he lifts the lid, and there rises 

A fleecy, silvery cloud, 
That floats off to the Evergreen Country — 

And the fisher-boy cries aloud, 

He waves the sleeve of his tunic, 

He rolls over on the ground, 
He dances with fury and horror, 

Running wildly round and round. 

But a sudden chill comes o'er him 

That bleaches his raven hair, 
And furrows with hoary wrinkles 

The form erst so ]^)ung and fair. 

His breath grows fainter and fainter, 

Till at last he sinks dead on the shore ; 

And I gaze on the spot when his cottage 
Once stood, but now stands no more. 

Yamato-take xo Mikoto, one of the eighty children of the Emperor 
Keiko, was a great hero of the pre-historic age. While yet a stripling, he 
was sent by his father to destroy the rebels of Western Japan. In order 
to accomplish this end, he borrowed the gown of his aunt who 
was high-priestess of Ise, and, thus disguised, made the rebel 
chieftains fall in love with him while carousing in the cave where 
they dwelt. Then suddenly drawing a sword from his bosom, he smote 
them to death. He next subdued the province of Izumo, and finally 
conquered Eastern Japan, which was at that time a barbarous waste. 
After many adventures both warlike and amorous, he died on the home- 
ward march to Yamato where the Emperor, his father, held Court. 



Celebrated Personages. 67 

Yoritomo (1147-1199) was the founder of the Shogunate, the first 
Japanese Mayor of the Palace, if one may so phrase it. A scion of the 
great house of Minamoto, as shrewd and ambitious as he was unscrupulous 
and inhuman, he was left an orphan at an early age, and barely escaped 
death as a lad at the hands of Kiyomori, the then all-powerful Minister, 
who belonged to the rival Taira clan. Kiyornori's exactions having 
roused the indignation of the whole Empire, Yoritorno saw that the 
moment had come to essay the restoration of his own fortunes. All the 
malcontents eagerly flocked to his standard ; and first in Eastern Japan, 
then at Kyoto, and lastly at the great sea-fight of Dan-no-ura near 
Shimonoseki at the S.W. end of the Inland Sea, Yoritorno defeated the 
Taira and utterly exterminated them, putting even women and children 
to the sword. Yoritorno established his capital at Kamakura, which soon 
grew into a great city, thoroughly reorganised the administration by the 
appointment of military governors, chosen from among his own clan, to 
act conjointly with the civil governors who received their nominations 
from the Mikado, by the levy of taxes for military purposes payable 
into his own treasury, and by other far-sighted innovations made in the 
interests of a military feudalism. At last in 1192, he obtained — in other 
words forced — from the Court of Kyoto the title of Sei-i Tai Shogun, that 
is " Barbarian-subduing Generalissimo," which soon came to denote the 
military or actual ruler of the country, as distinguished from its theoretical 
head, the heaven-descended Mikado. Yoritorno, whose life had been spent 
fighting, died peacefully in his bed. Among the many on whom he 
trampled to satisfy the dictates of personal ambition, was his own brother 
Yoshitsune, a far nobler character. Though Yoritomo's system of govern- 
ment remained in vigour for well-nigh seven centuries, the sceptre dropped 
from his own family in the generation following his death, his sons Yoriie 
and Sanetomo being weaklings who both perished by assassination at an 
early age. 

Yoshitsune, (b. 1159), also called Ushiwaka, was younger half-brother 
to the first Shogun Yoritorno, being the son of Yoshitomo by a beautiful 
concubine named Tokiwa. By yielding to the wicked desires of the 
tyrant Kiyomori, Tokiwa obtained pardon for her son on condition that 
he shaved his head and became a niook. Accordingly he was placed in 
the Buddhist monastery of Kurama-yama near Kyoto. But theological 
exercises were so little to his taste that he ran away to Northern Japan 
in company with a friendly merchant, and at once distinguished himself 
by the valour with which he repelled the assaults of the brigands, slaying 
several with his own hand, though then himself but sixteen years of 
age. When Yoritorno rose in arms against the Taira clan, Yoshitsune 
naturally joined him, and became his greatest general. Indeed, the real 
guerdon belonged rightfully to the younger rather than to the elder 
brother. Yoritorno, far from feeling any gratitude, began to burn with 
jealous}' and to detest Yoshitsune as a possible rival. He even went so 
far as to compass his death. But Yoshitsune escaped again to Northern 
Japan, where, according to one account, he was discovered by spies, and 
killed after a desperate fight on the banks of the Koromo-gawa, his head 
being sent to Yoritorno at Kamakura, preserved in sake. Others say that 
he committed liarakiri when he saw that all was lost, having previously 
killed his own wife and children. A more fanciful account is that he 
escaped to Yezo, and then re-appeared on the mainland of Asia as 
Genghis Khan. This fable probably originated in an accidental similarity 
between the Chinese characters used to write the names of these two 



68 Introduction : — Population of Chief Cities. Outline Tours. 

famous men. But it is a remarkable fact that to this day Yoshitsune 
remains an object of worship among the Ainos of Yezo. To the Japanese 
his name is a synonym for single-minded bravery and devotion. The 
traveller will often hear mentioned in connection with the name of 
Yoshitsune those of Benkei, his faithful retainer, and Yasuhira, the 
traitor suborned by Yoritomo to slay him. 

28. — Population of the Chief Cities. 

Eukui (Echizen) . . . . 41,000 | Nagoya 179,000 

Fukuoka (Chikuzen) . . 55,000 I Niigata 47,000 

Gifu 31,000 ! Okayama 47,000 

Hakodate 58,000 ! Osaka 484,000 

Hirosaki 30,000 ' Otsu 32,000 

Hiroshima 90,000 , Sakai (Izumi) 45,000 

Kagoshima 56,000 Sendai 64,000 

Kanazawa (Kaga) . . . . 93,000 : Shimonoseki 33,000 

Kobe 143,000 , Shizuoka 38,000 

Koehi 33,000 ! Takamatsu (Sanuki) . . 34,000 

Kofu 33,000 : Tokushima (Awa) . . . . 60,000 

Kumamoto 56,000 ' Tokyo (district of) . . . . 1,628,000 

Kyoto 298,000 i Toyama (Etchu) . . . . 59,000 

Maebashi 32,000 l Utsunomiya 31,000 

Matsue 35,000 ! Wakayama 55,000 

Matsuyama (Iyo) . . . . 34,000 Yokohama 143,000 

Morioka . . 32,000 | Yokosuka 32,000 

Nagasaki 60,000 I 

Total population of Japan on 1st Jan., 1892, was 40,718,677. 

29. — Outline Toues. 

1.— One Month's Tour from Yokohama: — 

Tokyo 3 days. 

Kamakura and Enoshima 1 ,, 

Miyanoshita 3 ,, 

From Miyanoshita to Nagoya by Tokaido Kailway 1 ,, 

Nagoya J „ 

Erom Nagoya to Kyoto 1 ,, 

Kyoto 4 „ 

Lake Biwa and back to_Kyoto 1 ,, 

Erom Kyoto to Nara, Osaka, and Kobe 3 ,, 

Kobe to Yokohama by steamer (by rail J day less) 1J ,,. 

Erom Yokohama to Nikko by rail -J ,, 

Nikko and Chuzenji 3J ,, 

Erom Nikko to Ikao via Ashio and the Watarase-gawa . . 2 „ 

Ikao (visit Haruna) 2 ,, 

From Ikao to Myogi-san via Takasaki 1 ,, 

Myogi-san and back to Yokohama by rail 1 ,, 

Spare days 2 „ 

Total ..31 , r 

With this tour may be combined the ascent of Fuji from Yokohama 
(see Koute 9). 



Outline Tours. 69 

2. — One Month's Tour from Kobe: — 

Kobe 1 day. 

Osaka, Nara, Kyoto, and Lake Biwa 5 ,, 

Train from Kyoto to Gif u ; along the Nakasendo to Asania- 

yama and Karuizawa 6 

Karuizawa to Ikao 1 

Ikao .. .. 1 

Ikao to Nikko via the Watarase-gawa 2 

Nikko .. ._. 4 

By rail to Tokyo J 

Tokyo 3 

Yokohama, Kamakura, and Miyanoshita 4J 

Tokaido Railway to Nagoya 1 

Rail to Kobe 1 

Spare days 1 

Total ..31 „ 

3. — One Month's Tour from Nagasaki: — 

Nagasaki and Onsen (Unzen) 4 days. 

From Nagasaki to Kobe by steamer 2 

Nara, Kyoto, and Lake Biwa 5 

From Kyoto to Nagoya by Tokaido Railway 1 

From Nagoya to Miyanoshita . . 1 

Miyanoshita 3 

From Miyanoshita to Kamakura and Yokohama 1 

Yokohama 1 

Tokyo .. ♦. 3 

From Tokyo to Nikko and back 4 

Steamer from Yokohama to Nagasaki 4 

Spare days 2 

Total .. 31 „ 

4. — It frequently happens that travellers from America, en route to 
Europe via India, have only a fortnight to devote to Japan between the 
steamer that drops them at Yokohama and the next one that picks them 
up at Kobe. To such the following outline is suggested : — 

Yokohama (shopping, travelling arrangements) 2 days. 

Tokyo (sights and the theatre) 2 „ 

Tokyo to Nikko and back to Yokohama 3 ,, 

By Tokaido Railway to Miyanoshita, visiting Kamakura and 

Enoshima en route 1 ,, 

Miyanoshita 1 ,, 

Rail to Kyoto 1 „ 

Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe 4 „ 

Total .. 14 

All the above tours are practicable for ladies. Shorter tours can 
easily be arranged by omitting certain portions of them. 

5. Yokohama to Miyanoshita, Hakone, and Atami (see Routes 6 and 7). 



70 Introduction : — Outline Tours. 

6. Yokohama to Nikko, the copper-mines of Ashio, down the valley 
of the Watarase-gawa to Omama, and back to Yokohama by train. Five 
days. One day extra for Koshin-zan (Routes 14 and 15). 

7. Yokohama to Nikko, Chuzenji, and Yumoto ; thence over the 
Konsei-toge to,Maebashi, and back to Yokohama by train. One week. 
Two extra days to visit Ikao at end of trip (Routes 14, 16, and 12). 

8. Yokohama to Tachikawa on the Hachioji Railway ; thence via 
Ome up the valley of the Tamagawa to Kofu. Kofu to Kajikazawa, and 
down the rapids of the Fujikawa (visiting Minobu) to Iwabuchi on the 
Tokaido Railway. One week. If Mitake be visited, one day more. All 
this is included in Route 26* 

9. Yokohama to Ikao, 1st day ; Ikao to Kusatsu, 2nd day ; Kusatsu 
to Shibu, 3rd day; Shibu to Toyono and Nagano, 4th day. From 
Nagano to Myogi-san via Karuizawa, 5th day. Train from Matsuida to 
Yokohama in 5 J hrs. One day extra for ascent of Asama-yarna from 
Karuizawa (Routes 12, 25, 11, and 10). 

10. Yokohama to Nagano by train, back to Ueda to rejoin the Naka- 
sendo, thence along the Nakasendo to Gifu, and by train to Kyoto. 
Eight or nine days (Routes 25, 35, and 34). 

11. Yokohama by the Koshu Kaido or Nakasendo to Shimo-no-Suwa, 
and down the rapids of the Tenryu-gawa to the Tokaido-Railway. Five 
or six days (Routes' 26, 35, and 39). 

12. Yokohama by train to Shiogama, by water to Matsushima, Ishi- 
nomaki, Kinkwa-zan, and Oginohama, whence steamer back to Yoko- 
hama. Four days. Three extra days to visit Bandai-san from Motomiya 
on Northern Railway. (Routes 68, 69, and 19). 

13. The Shrines of Ise. . Four days from Yokohama or Kobe. 
(Routes 34 and 32). 

14. Osaka through- Yamato to Koya-san, and back by Wakayama. 
Five days (Routes 38 and 42). 

15. Kyoto to Tsuruga on the Sea of Japan ; overland or steamer to 
Fushiki, steamer to Naoetsu, rail to Tokyo. Five or six days (Routes 33, 
25, and 10). 

16. Tour of the Inland Sea and Shikoku. Time uncertain (Routes 
50 to 55). 

17. Nagasaki to the solfataras of Onsen (Unzen) and back. Three 
days (Route 58). 

18. Nagasaki to the hot-springs of Takeo, and back via the Potteries 
of Arita. Three days (Route 57). 

19. Rapids of the Kumagawa. Four days (Route 65). 

20. From Nagasaki to XJreshino, Takeo, and Saga ; rail to Kurume ; 
via Yabakei VaJley to Nakatsu, Oita, .Takeda, . Sakanashi, Kumanioto ; 
back to Nagasaki by steamer from Misumi, 8 clays. Two extra days are 
required for the ascent of Aso-san (Routes 57, 59, 60, 61, and 62). 

21. By steamer from Yokohama to Hakodate and Otaru; rail to 
Sapporo and Mororan ; steamer to Hakodate and Aomori ; back to Yoko- 
hama by rail, visiting Matsushima, Bandai-san, and Nikko en route. 
A fortnight (Routes 77, 81, 69, 19, and 14). 

22. .By steamer from Hakodate up the East Coast of Yezo and to the 
Southern Kuriles (Route 82). 



Outline Tours. 71 

List of "Fixed Routes of Travel." 

(A traveller restricting himself to one of these Routes need only 
mention the number in his application.) 

FROM YOKOHAMA : 

No. 1. By regular routes* to the Thirteen Provinces round Fuji and 
back. 

No. 1-A. (In the American list only). (To Nikko and vicinity, and 
Bandai-san and vicinity by rail; thence by regular routes 
to Kotsuke, Shinano, Musashi, Sag ami f Izu, Kai, Siiruga, 
and Totomi to Nagoya, Kyoto, and Kobe, Himeji and Oka- 
yama, and return, with permission to visit Nara and Ise 
Shrines en route. — This route may also be applied for from 
Kobe or Nagasaki.) 

No. 2. By rail to Kobe via Shizuoka, Nagoya, and Kyoto, with liberty 
to break the journey to visit Hakone and Nara. 

No. 3. To Kyoto by the Nakasendo, and thence to Nara and Kobe by 
regular routes. {American list includes return). 

No. 4. To Yokkaichi by sea, and thence by regular routes to Ise, 
Nara, Kyoto, and Kobe. ("And return." Amer. List.) 

No. 5. By rail to Sendai, and thence to Matsushirna and Oginohama 
(and back if necessary), with leave to break the journey to visit Bandai- 
san. ("And Hakodate and Nikko" Amer. List.) 

No. 6. By rail to Sendai and thence by regular routes to Aomori 
and Hakodate and back. 

No. 7. Hakodate, Otaru, Sapporo, and Yezo generally. 

FR03I KOBE : 

No. 8. To Himeji by rail ; thence to Yokohama by rail via Kyoto, 
Nagoya, and Shizuoka, with liberty to break the journey to visit Nara and 
Hakone. ("Also Nikko and ISC'" Amer. List.) 

No. 9. To Himeji by rail ; thence by regular routes to Kyoto and 
Nara ; thence by the Nakasendo to Tokyo ("and back." Amer. List.) with 
liberty to visit by regular routes the Provinces of Kotsuke, Shimotsuke, 
Hitachi, Shimosa, and Musashi. 

No. 10. By regular routes to the provinces of Settsu, Harima, Yania- 
shiro, Kawachi, Echizen, Omi, Izumi, Yamato, Kishu, and back. 

No. 11. To Nagasaki by regular routes through the Provinces of 
Harima, Bizen, Bitchu, Mimasaka, Bingo, Aki, Suwo, Nagato, Buzen, 
Chikuzen, and Hizen, and back. 

No. 12. By regular routes to the Provinces of Harima, Bizen, Sanuki, 
Awa, Kishu, Izumi, and the Island of Awaji and back. 

FROM NAGASAKI \ 

No. 13. By regular routes through the Provinces of Hizen, Chikugo, 
Higo, Satsuma, Osumi, Hyuga, Bungo, Buzen, Chikuzen and back. 

No. 14. To the Goto Islands and back. 

No. 15. To Shimonoseki by sea ; thence to Kobe by regular routes 
through the Provinces of Nagato, Suwo, Aki, Bingo, Bitchu, Mimasaka, 
Bizen, Harima, and back. 

* Officialdom lias vouchsafed no definition of this mystic term ; but in practice 
the regular roads mean all or any roads. 



72 



Introduction : — Outline Tours. 



No. 16. To Shimon oseki by regular routes through the Provinces of 
Hizeu, Chikuzen, and Buzen ; thence to Kobe by regular routes through 
the Provinces of Nagato, Suwo, Aki, Bingo, Bitchu, Mirnasaka, Bizen, and 
Harima. (" And back." Amer. List.) 



FE03kI HAKODATE : 



No. 17. Same as No. 7. 

No. 18. Via Mororan to Sapporo and Yezo generally. 

No. 19. By sea>to Aomori ; thence by regular routes to Sendai, and 
thence by rail to Tokyo. 



* 





SECTION 1. 
EASTERN JAPAN. 

(Routes i — 24. 



' , 



i «■: 



.'^YOKOHAMA 



/P. 



Ss 



^VCxAMI iiu . 









Handbook for Travellers 



JAPAN. 



ROUTES. 



ROUTE 1. 

Yokohama. 

Yokohama, the place where most 

visitors first touch. Japanese soil, is 
the largest of the Treaty Ports and 
practically the port of Tokyo. The 
landing-place {hatoba) and the 
custom-house (zei-kwan) are with- 
in 5 min. drive of the Hotels and 
In 10 min. of the Railway 
ion. 
Hotels.— Grand Hotel, No. 20: 
Hotel, No. 5-b, both on the 
Bund, facing the sea : Oriental 
Hotel, No. S7, Main -:;-, 
Resta u ra nts. — (En rqpean food) 
i-ro, in U:a-machi. Go-chome ; 
Edoko, in Minami Naka-dori. (Jaj - 
Sanomo, in Ota-machi; 
Fukki-ro. near the Railway Station. 
\ Inns. — Fukui, in Ben- 
ten-dori ; Takano-ya, in Honcho- 
dori. 

Banks. — Hongkong and Shanghai 
Bank, No. 2 : Chartered Bank of 
India, Australia, and China. No. 7r : 
>nal Bank of China. No. 61. 
Also Agencies of the Chartered Mer- 
le Bank, and of the Bank of 
China, Japan and the Straits. 
Consulates. — British, No. 172; 



American. 2no. 23= ; French. No. 
B4 : German, No. 81. 

Post and TeU ffice. — This, 

together with the Telephone 1 :.■ 
change, the Custom-House and the 

: ture Ka .:'.' . stands nc : 
British and American Consulates, 
on the space between the Z::ri ± n 
Settlement and the Japanese town. 

Steam Communication. — Japan 
Mail Steamship Company Nippc 
Yusen Kwaisha^ slose :: the Rail- 
way Station; Peninsular and Orien- 
tal. No. 15 : Messageriefi Maritime* 
No. 9: Xorddeurscher Lloyd. 2 : : 
29: Pacific IMail, Occidental and 
Oriental, No. 4-a ; Canadian Pa sific 
No. 20C ; Northern Pacific, and '..- 
■• Shire " line, Dc Iwell, C irlil] 
and Co.). No. 50. B : M Glen " line 
Jardine, IMatheson & Go." No. 1 
i; Ben " line, Domes A Co.Nc : 
Holt's line, Butterfield and Swire 
No. 7 . 

Churches. — Christ Church (An- 
No. 105; Union Church 
(Protestant . No. 167 ; Methodist, 
No. 221; Roman Catholic. No. 90. 

Clubs. — Yokohama United Club, 
No. 5-a. Club Germania. No. 23£ 
dr. No. 61. Chess 
Club, No. ML 



76 



Route I. — Yokohama. 



Photographs of Japanese Scenery 
and Costumes. — Farsari & Co., No. 
16 ; Kimbei, in Honcho-dori ; Taraa- 
mura, in Benten-dori ; Suzuki, near 
the Cricket Ground. 

Books and Maps relating to Japan. 
—Kelly and Walsh, No. 61 ; Good- 
enough & Co., No. 56 ; Farsari, No. 
16. 

Foreign Stores for Japanese Works 
of Art. — Deakin Brothers & Co., 
opposite the Grand Hotel, and No. 
38 ; Kuhn, No. 57 ; Arthur & Bond's 
Fine Art Gallery, No. 12. 

Japanese Curio Dealers. — Mi nod a 
Chojiro, in Honcho-dori, fine lac- 
quer, enamels, and ivories ; Inoue, 
44, Honcho-dori, screens, embroid- 
eries, etc. ; Musashi-}-a, in Honcho- 
dori, jewellery, ivories, silver-ware, 
etc. ; Nagasaki-3-a, in Honcho-dori, 
jewellery, metal-work, ivories, etc. ; 
Matsuishi-ya, in Honcho - dori, 
porcelain in European shapes ; 
Tashiro-ya, in Benten-dori, porce- 
lain ; Watano, in Honcho-dori, 
porcelain ; Kosaka, 25, Benten-dori, 
paper fans ; Shamokame, 15, Hon- 
cho-dori, embroidery, porcelain, and 
enamels; Fine Art Exhibition, in 
Asahi-machi. 

Silk Stores. — Shdbei, Shieno, both 
in Honcho-dori ; Noboru-ya Saku- 
bei, in Benten-dori ; also, for cheaper 
articles, Yamaguchi in Ota-machi; 
Matsura, 52, Benten - dori ; Tanabe, 
Honcho-dori ; and Tsuruya, Ishi- 
kawa. 

Embroideries, Silk and Cotton 
Crapes, Japanese Cottons, etc. — No- 
zawa-ya, 30, Benten-dori, Ni-chome ; 
Yamagata-ya, opposite Nozawa-ya. 

Japanese Note-paper. — Tanikawa, 
in Minarni Naka-dori Itchome. 

Toys, etc, — Nagai, in Honcho-dori. 

Bamboo and Bead Blinds, Cabi- 
nets, etc. — Moriyasu, 62, Benten-dori 
Shi-chome. 

Florists. — Bcehmer & Co., 4, 5, and 
28, Bluff. Gardeners' Association, 
21, Nakamura Bluff. 

Japanese Theatres, etc. — Tsuta-za, 
in Isezaki-cho ; Minato-za, in Sumi- 
yoshi-cho, where there is also 
generally a sort of fair. 



Public Garden and Cricket 
Ground. — At the back of the Settle- 
ment, behind the American Consu- 
late ; Bluff Gardens, No. 230. 

Neivspapers. — " Japan Daily Ad- 
vertiser," " Japan Gazette," " Japan 
Herald," " Japan Mail," daily ; 
"Box of Curios," "Eastern World," 
weekly. 

HiSTOKY. — Yokohama owes its com- 
mercial importance to the foreigners who 
have settled there. It was an insignificant 
fishing village when Commodore Perry 
anchored off it in 1854, and gave American 
names to several points in the neighbour- 
hood. When it was agreed to open a 
Treaty Port in this part of Japan, the 
choice naturally fell, not on Yokohama, 
hut on the thriving town of Kanagawa, 
on the opposite side of the small bay, now 
partially filled in. But the Japanese 
Government, finding Kanagawa incon- 
venient because of its situation on the 
Tokaido, at a time when collisions be- 
tween foreigners and the armed retainers 
of the Daimyos passing to and from the 
capital were to be apprehended, gave 
facilities for leasing ground at Yokohama 
instead. Thither accordingly the mer- 
chants, anxious to open up trade, repaired 
in 1859. The consuls protested against 
the change ; but the only lasting result of 
their protest is the retention of the name 
Kanagawa in certain official documents. 
The superiority of the Yokohama an- 
chorage doubtless reconciled the foreign 
community to the inferior position of the 
place on a mud flat facing North. The 
greater portion of the Settlement, as it 
now exists, dates from after the fire of 
1866 ; and the Bluff, on which most of 
the well-to-do residents have their dwell- 
I ings was first leased for building purposes 
in 1867. A large and rapidly growing 
native town has sprung up outside the 
foreign Settlement. The government of 
the Settlement, at one time in the hands 
of a mixed foreign municipality, is at 
present administered by the Prefect of 
Kanagawa. The last of the English 
soldiers, by whom foreign life and 
property were at one time protected, left 
Japan in March, 1875. Waterworks 
opened in 1887 supply Yokohama from 
the Sagami-gawa, '28 m. distant. Har- 
bour-works are still in progress. — On the 
31st December, 1892, the foreign popula- 
tion of Yokohama, exclusive of Chinese, 
amounted to 1,588, of whom 763 British. 

It should be explained that al- 
though the streets have names, 
these are comparatively little used, 
as the numbering of the whole 
Settlement is continuous, irrespec- 



Boate 2. — Excursions from Yokohai 



77 



tive of street names. A similar 
remark applies to the Bluff. 

Though Yokohama boasts but few 
sights properly so called, the curio- 
hunter will here find himself in his 
element ; and to one newly landed 
the native town, with its street- 
stalls, its theatrical and other 
shows, will afford an interesting 
spectacle. A visit should be paid 
to Noge-yama, close behind the 
Bail way Station, for the sake of the 
general view of the town and har- 
bour. Here stand some small, but 
popular and representative, shrines 
dedicated to the Shinto god of 
Akiha, to Doryo, a Buddhist saint, 
to Fudo, the great Buddhist god 
whose chief shrine is at Narita (see 
Eoute 17), and to the Sun Goddess 
of Ise (see Boute 32). This last, 
which crowns the hill, is generally 
known as Daijingu. Festivals are 
are held at Xoge-yama on the 1st, 
15th, and 28th of every month. 
The temple of Zotoka-in, dedicated 
to Yakushi Nyorai and situated 
close to the Grand Hotel, celebrates 
its festivals on the 8th and 12th of 
the month. 

Yokohama possesses a Public 
Hall, where theatrical and other 
entertainments are given, and a 
Bace Course. 

Bace meetings, often attended by : 
His Majesty the Mikado, are held : 
in spring and autumn. The race- | 
course overlooks Mississippi Bay, 
Which affords a charming objective 
point for a drive. Indeed, the whole | 
neighbourhood abounds in beautiful 
landscapes. 



EOUTE 2. 

. Excursions feo^i Yokohama. 

1. kamakuea and the daibutsu • 
2. exoshima. 3. dzushi axdho" 
eiuchi. 4. kakazawa. [muse]. 

5. SUGITA AXD T03IIOKA. 6. YOKO- 
SUEA, UEAGA, AND 3IISAKI. 

7. BUKENJI. 8. THE CAVES OF TO- 
TSUEA. 9. OYAMA 10. OISO AND 
KOZU. 11. EAPIDS OF THE KATS0- 
RA-GAWA. 

(All these excursions may be made 
without passports, except No. 11.) 

1. — Kamakura is reached from 
Yokohama in 50 min. by the Tokaido 
Kailway, changing carriages at 
Ofuna Junction. This branch line 
continues on to Dzushi and Yoko- 
suka, being altogether 21J miles in 
length. 

Kaiiia&nra, once the populous 
capital of Eastern Japan, has now 
shrunk into a quiet sea-side village 
which is a favourite resort of the 
Yokohama residents. The Kailiin- 
in Hotel, or Marine Sanatorium 
(foreign style), situated under a pine- 
grove near that portion of the shore 
known as Yui-ga-hama, is J hr. 
by jinrikisha from the Station. 
The Japanese inn, Mitsuhashi, may 
also be recommended. Both provide 
hot and cold salt-water baths. 

Kamakura was the seat of govern- 
ment in Eastern Japan from the end of 
the I'-'th to the middle of the 15th century. 
Yoritomo, who established the Shogunate 
in 1192, chose this place as his capital, and 
here was laid the foundation of the feudal 
system of government which prevailed up 
to the year 1868. The city of Kamakura. 
in the time of Yoritomo's immediate 
successors, extended all over the plain 
and into the recesses of the different 
yatm, or dells, which branch off from it 
among the hils. Its population is believed 
to have exceeded one million in the days 
of its glory. Kamakura was the scene of 
innumerable contests between rival mili- 
tary factions, and of many bloody deeds. 
Here, on the sea-shore, were beheaded 
the Mongol ambassadors of Kublai Khan, 
{Jap. Kop-pitsu-retsu), who had impe- 
riously sent to demand the submission of 
Japan to his sway. The city was repeat- 



78 



Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama. 



edly sacked and laid in ashes, and seems 
never to have fully recovered from the 
disasters of the year 1455. The neighbour- 
ing city of Odawara, which next rose into 
importance as the seat of the powerful 
Hojo family, attracted to itself large 
numbers of the inhabitants of Kamakura, 
the ruin of which town was completed by 
the founding of Yedo in A.D. 1603. 

The chief sights of Kamakura are 
the Temple of Hachiman, the Dai- 
butsu or colossal bronze Buddha, 
aud the great image of the goddess 
Kwannon. They all lie within a 
mile of the hotel. 

The Temple of Hachiman, the 
God of War, dating from the end 
of the 12th century, stands in a 
commanding position on a hill call- 
ed Tsuru-ga-oka, and is approached 
by a stately avenue of pine-trees 
leading up the whole way from the 
sea-shore. Though both avenue and 
temple have suffered from the rav- 
ages of time, enough still remains 
to remind one of the ancient glories 
of the place. Three stone torii lead 
up to the temple, which stands at 
the head of a broad flight of stone 
steps. Notice the magnificent icho 
tree, nearly 20 ffc. in circumference 
and said to be over a thousand 
years old, and the flowering trees 
scattered about the grounds. 

Before ascending the flight of 
steps, the minor shrines to the r. 
deserve passing notice. The nearer 
one, painted red and called Waka- 
miya, is dedicated to the Emperor 
Nintoku, son of the God of War. 
The further one, renovated in 1890, 
is called Shirahata Jinja and dedi- 
cated to Yoritomo. The style and 
structure are somewhat unusual, 
black and gold being the only 
colours employed, and iron being 
the material of the four main pillars. 
The interior holds a small wooden 
image of Yoritomo. 

A side path leads up hence to the 
main temple, which is enclosed in a 
square colonnade painted red. The 
temple, which was re-erected in 
1828 after having been destroyed by 
fire seven years previously, is in the 
RyGbu Shinto style, with red pillars, 



| beams, and rafters, and is decorated 

j with small painted carvings chiefly 
of birds and animals. In the colon- 
nade are several religious palanquins 
(mikoshi) used on the occasion of 
the semi-annual festivals (loth April 

! and 15th September), a wooden 

j image of Sumiyoshi by Unkei, and 
a few relics of Yoritomo. Most of 
the relics once preserved in the 
temple have been removed to the 

; residence of the Chief Priest (Hako- 
zaki Oyatsu-kican), and are only 

! exhibited at festival time. 

Immediately behind the temple* 
of Hachiman, is a small hill called 
Shiraliata-yama, whence Yoritomo 

! is said to have often admired the 
prospect. The base of the hill is 

i enclosed and laid out as a garden. 

The Daibutsn, or Great Buddha, 
\ stands alone among Japanese works 
[ of art. No other gives such an kn- 
! pression of majesty, or so truly sym- 
bolises the central idea of Bud- 
dhism — the intellectual calm which 
comes of perfected knowledge and 
5 the subjugation of all passion. But 
to be fully appreciated, the Dai- 
butsu must be visited many times. 

There had been a temple in this place 

since the 8th century, but the image is of 

much later date, its precise history is 

; involved in obscurity. Tradition, how- 

; ever, says that Yoritomo, when taking 

part in the dedication of the Daibutsn at 

Nara, conceived the desire of having a 

; similar object of worship at his own 

: capital, but died before he could put the 

plan into execution. One of the ladies of 

! his court undertook to collect funds for the 

j purpose, and in the year 1252 the Kama- 

: kura Daibutsn was cast by Ono Gorosmon. 

History tells of two such images. The 

first, a wooden one, was designed by a 

priest, who collected money far and wide 

' amongst all classes, and in 123S the head 

I of the image, 80 ft. in circumference, was 

in its place, while the temple in which it 

stood was completed in 1241 and dedicated 

: in 1243. This image is said to have 

represented Amida, and to have been 

j destroyed by a tempest. The second is 

' spoken of as" a gilt bronze image of Shaka, 

I and the casting is believed to have been 

i begun in 1252. The present one repre- 

! sents Amida, and notwithstanding the 

i difference of name, is probably the bronze 

image referred to above as dating from 

1252. It was enclosed in a large building 

' 50 yds. square, whose roof was supported 



Kamakura. 



79 



on sixty-three massive wooden pillars. 
Many of the stone bases on which they 
rested are still in situ. The temple build- 
ings were twice destroyed by tidal waves, 
in 1369 and 1494, after which they were 
not rebuilt. Since that time the image 
has remained exposed to the elements. 

The Daibutsu is best seen froni 
about half-way up the approach. 
Its dimensions are approximately 
as follows : — 

ft. or. 

Height 49 7 

Circumference 97 2 

Length of face 8 5 

Width from ear to ear .... 17 9 
Round white boss on fore- 
head 1 3 

Length of eye 3 11 

., of eyebrow 4 2 

„ of ear 6 6 

„ of nose 3 9 

Width of mouth 3 2 

Height of bump of wisdom 9 

Diameter of bump of wisdom 2 4 
Curls (of which there are 

830) : Height 9 

,, Diameter 1 

Length from knee to knee 35 8 
Circumference of thumb . . 3 

The eyes are of pure gold, and 
the silver boss weighs 30 lbs. 
avoirdupois. The image is formed 
of sheets of bronze cast separately, 
brazed together, and finished oft on 
the outside with the chisel. The 
hollow interior of the image 
contains a small shrine, and a ladder- 
leads up into the head. 

The Temple of Kicannon, known 
as Hase no Kwannon, stands not far 
from the Daibutsu on an eminence 
commanding a beautiful view of the 
sea-shore towards Misaki, and over 
the plain of Kamakura. The great 
image of the Goddess of Mercy, for 
which this temple is celebrated, 
stands behind foldiDg-doors which 
a small fee to the attendant priest 
will suffice to open ; but the figure 
can only be indistinctly seen by the 
dim light of a few candles. It is of 
brown lacquer gilded over, and its 
height is 30 ft. 5£ in. The ad- 
mirable bronze seated figure of 
Dainichi Nyorai on the 1. was pre- 



sented by the Shogun Ashikaga 
Yoshimasa (b. 1436, d. 1490). 

Close to this temple is a bold cliff 
called Inamura-ga-saki. 

In 1333, when the city of Kamakura 
was attacked by the partisans of the 
Emperor Go-Daigo, part of the force led 
by Xitta Yoshisada advanced along the 
strand from the W. of this hill, but were 
unable to pass under the cliff owing to 
chevaux-de-frise being placed against it 
down to the water's edge, while their 
passage in boats was prevented by a long 
row of war-junks lying some 500 or 600 
yards off the shore. Yoshisada therefore 
climbed the cliff, and after praying to the 
Sea- God, flung his sword into the sea, 
whereupon the tide miraculously re- 
treated, leaving a space a mile and a 
half wide at the foot of the cliff, along 
which he marched his army into Kama- 
kura. 

Lovers of early sculpture and 
of Japanese historical and anti- 
quarian lore, will find scattered over 
Kamakura many minor temples and 
other objects to arrest their attention. 
Amongst these the following may 
be enumerated : — 

Enndji, small and dilapidated, but 
containing the celebrated image of 
Emma-O, Regent of Hell, called 
Arai-no-Emma, and carved by Un- 
kei. 

Legend says that TJnkei, having died, 
appeared in due course before this re- 
doubtable deity, who thus accosted him : 
" Thou hast carved many images of me, 
but never a true one. Now that thou hast 
seen my face, return to earth and show me 
as I am." So TJnkei, coming to life again, 
carved this image, which is, therefore, 
said to be UnJcei Yomiji-gaeri no mTcu, that 
is, "the work of TJnkei redivivus." 

The image is only shown on 
application to the custodian. Other 
large images line the walls, one of 
Shozuka-no-Baba (see p. 43), also by 
CJnkei, being specially powerful. 

Kenchdji is situated in beautiful 
but now mostly deserted grounds, 
amidst magnificent trees, of which 
the rugged byakushin (Juniperus 
chinensis) is the most prominent 
species, and a favourite material 
with the carvers of Buddhist images. 
The Sammon is a grand structure. 
The main temple contains a large 
image of Jizo, and four hundred 



80 



Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama, 



small gilt ones of the same divinity 
carved by Eshin. 

A very popular little shrine was 
erected in 1890 on Shdjoken, the 
hill behind Kenchoji, and attracts 
such crowds of pilgrims that a 
special train is run on the 17th day 
of the month for their benefit. The 
shrine is dedicated to a goblin 
called Hanzobo, to whom enormous 
quantities of small paper flags are 
offered up. These line both sides 
of the pathway that leads up the 
hill for a distance of 5 did. A tea- 
house near the shrine commands a 
splendid view of Fuji and the sea. 
The Oku-no-in at the very top 
overlooks a maze of small hills and 
valleys in the direction of Yoko- 
hama. 

The ancient Temple of Kokitonji, 
contains images of the Ju-ni-ten 
nearly life-size, and very large ones 
of Yakushi Nyorai, Nikko Bosatsu, 
and Gwakko Bosatsu, all attributed 
to the chisel of Unkei. 

The Tomb of Yoritomo is a modest 
little monument covered with 
creepers. 

The Kamakura-no-Miya was 
erected in 1869 in honour of a son 
of the Emperor Go-Daigo, called 
Oto-no-Miya, who, having failed in 
his attempt to overthrow the feudal 
government, was captured, confined 
in a cave, and finally assassinated 
A.D. 1335. The temple, which is 
in pure Shinto style, stands direct- 
ly in front of the cave. 

Enkakuji possesses the largest 
bell in Kamakura. This bell, dat- 
ing from A.D. 1201, is 6 in. thick, 
4 ft. 7 in. in diameter, and about 
8 ft. high. 

Myohonji, Komydji, Eishdji, and 
Ju-rofcu-ido, or the Sixteen Pools, in 
which, according to an apocryphal 
tradition, Kobo Daishi performed 
his ablutions, are also noted. 

2. — Enoshima. 

This most picturesque spot, 
though called an island, is more 
properly a peninsula; for only at 
high tide is it surrounded by the 



sea. The prettiest way there leads 
by the road called Shichi-ri-ga- 
hama * skirting the beach from 
Kamakura, and through the vill. 
of Katase. The distance from Kama- 
kura is 4 m. 

Half-way is the Yukiai-gawa, which, 
though "but an in significant streamlet, is 
worthy of mention on account of the 
following incident : — 

When Nichiren was miraculously deliv- 
ered from the hands of the executioner 
at the neighbouring village of Koshigoe, 
a messenger was at once despatched to 
Kamakura to ask for further orders, 
while at the same moment a reprieve 
was sent from the palace of the Regent 
Tokiyori. The two messengers happen- 
ed to meet at this stream, whence the 
name of Yukiai-yawa, which means "the 
River of Meeting." A stone now marks 
the spot. 

Jinrikishas can be taken as far as 
Koshigoe, 

The heroYoshitsune alighted at the small 
monastery of Mampukuji in this village, 
when his brother Yoritomo, jealous of his 
exploits and popularity, denied him en- 
trance into the city of Kamakura. The 
priests still show the draft of the letter 
sent by Yoshitsune, denying the intrigues 
imputed to him and protesting in vain his 
loyalty. The handwriting is said to be 
that of his faithful henchman, Benkei. 

whence it is a short walk across the 
neck of sand joining Enoshima to 
the mainland. 

A more direct way of approach- 
ing Enoshima is from Fujisawa 
station on the Tokaido Railway, 
whence it is 1 ri by jinrikisha. 
Residents of Yokohama often go 
by boat down the river, which is 
crossed some 6 cho from the station. 
The road from Fujisawa branches 
off r. to Enoshima close to the vill. 
of Katase, at the entrance of 
which stands the temple of Ryu- 
kdji, founded after Nichiren's 
death by six of his disciples, and 
built on the spot where his execu- 
tion was to have taken place. It 
possesses a number of fine wood- 
carvings. 

Enoshima, being a popular holi- 
day resort, is full of excellent inns. 
The best are the Iwamoto-in and 

* Literally, the " seven ri shore," the 
ri in early times in Eastern Japan having 
consisted of only 6 cho. 



En oshima . Dzushi . Kan aza iva . 



81 



Ebisu-ya in the vill., and the Kin- 
ki-ro higher up. There is fair sea- 
bathing. The shops of Enoshima 
are full of shells, corals, and marine 
curiosities generally, many of which 
are brought from other parts of the 
coast for sale. The beautiful glass 
rope sponge (Hyalonema sieboldi), 
called hosugai by the Japanese, is 
said to be gathered from a reef deep 
below the surface of the sea not far 
from the island of Oshima, whose 
smoking top is visible to the S. on 
a clear day. 

From the earliest ages the island 
was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist 
Goddess of Luck. 

Before the existence of Enoshima, so 
says the ancient legend, the site of the 
present cave was the abode of a dragon, 
which used to devour the children of the 
village of Koshigoe. In the 6th cen- 
tury, on the occasion of a violent earth- 
quake, the goddess Benten appeared 
in the clouds over the spot inhabited by 
that monster, and the island of Enoshima 
suddenly rising from the waters, she 
descended to it, married the dragon, and 
put an end to his ravages. 

This cult has now been, exchanged 
for that of three Shinto goddesses, 
to whom several of the temples 
have been re-dedicated. But the 
spot considered most sacred of all 
is the large cave on the far side 
of the island. It is 124 yds. in 
depth, the height at the entrance 
being at least 30 ft., but diminish- 
ing gradually towards the interior. 
The rocks near the cave are 
frequented by divers, who for a 
few cents bring up shell-fish from 
the deep, which, however, they may 
be suspected of having previously 
concealed about their persons. 

Ten cho from Enoshima and 28 
cho from Fujisawa station, is the 
sea-bathing resort of Kugenuma 
(Inn, Kosho-kwan). 

3. — Dzushi and Horiuchi. 

Dzushi, on the railway, 2J miles 
to the S. E. of Kamakura, is the 
station for Horiuchi, 1J m. dis- 
tant, which has lately risen into 
favour as a sea-side resort, some of 
the wealthier residents of Tokyo 



and Yokohama having built villas 
there. A carriage road connects 
Dzushi and Horiuchi, which latter 
place commands a lovely view, — 
Euji, which rises straight from the 
waters of Odawara Bay, forming the 
central feature of the scene. The 
Hikage-no-Chaya inn at Horiuchi 
is apt to be noisy. Nearer the station, 
across a ferry, may be found a quieter 
inn, known as the Onsen, with 
better bathing. Half a mile beyond 
the Hikage-no-Chaya stretches the 
pretty wooded promontory of Morita 
Myojin, and the walk for 2 m. further 
along the coast to a point called 
Choja-saki, where there is a good 
inn and capital bathing, can be re- 
commended. 

4. — Kanazawa. [Mine.] 

Jinrikishas may be taken the 
whole way ; two men required. 
The total distance is 4 ri 30 cho 
(llf m.), the road being flat for 
the first 6 m., as far as the hamlet 
of SeJci (Inn, Ishikawa-ya), and 
after that, very hilly. 

[At the hamlet of TanaTca, 10 
cho beyond Seki, a road prac- 
ticable most of the way for 
jinrikishas, turns off r. to a 
hill called Mine, which com- 
mands a wonderfully extensive 
view. The finest prospect is 
towards the N., looking down 
on the multitude of furrowed 
ridges that stretch away to the 
mountains of Kotsuke. To the 
W., the sea is visible near Hira- 
tsuka and Oiso on the Tokaido ; 
beyond it is Fuji, with the 
Oyama and Hakone ranges. 
The distance from Tanaka to 
Mine is 28 cho, say 2 m.] 

On reaching the crest of the 
ridge, the wondrous beauty which 
has led the foreign residents to be- 
stow on this neighbourhood the 
name of the Plains of Heaven, 
suddenly reveals itself. A scene of 
perfect loveliness may be enjoyed 
from a wayside tea-house called 
Nokendo, which nestles under a 



82 



Route 2, — Excursions from Yokohama. 



pine-tree known as the Fude-sute- 
matsu, because a Japanese artist of 
olden times here flung away his 
pencil in despair. At the spectator's 
feet is a wide, cultivated valley, 
bordered by pine-clad hills and 
opening out to the shores of an 
inlet, whose still waters are partly 
hemmed in by small peninsulas 
and islets, with to the 1. the pro- 
montory of Kwannon-saki, and on 
the opposite side of Tokyo Bay the 
long crest of Nokogiri-yama. The 
most conspicuous of the islands are 
Natsnshima (Webster Island), with 
Sarushima (Perry Island) beyond 
it, and Eboshi-jima which is much 
smaller and recognisable by its 
triangular shape. But a mere cata- 
logue of names can avail nothing 
towards conveying an idea of the 
peculiar magic of a scene which 
might be the original that inspired 
the Japanese landscape-painter's 
art. 

Kanazawa (Inns, Chiyo-moto, 
Azuma-ya), on the shores of the 
Mutsura Inlet, is chiefly noted for 
its Hah-kci, a characteristically 
Japanese view from a small height 
just outside the village. Close to 
the ferry at Nojima (Inn, Nishino- 
ya), is a celebrated peony garden, 
which attracts many visitors from 
Tokyo during the season of flowering. 
Some of the plants are said to be over 
300 years old. — Kanazawa may also 
be reached by the coast road via 
Tomioka on foot in 3 hrs. The way 
back to Yokohama can be pleasant- 
ly varied by taking the jinrikisha 
road across the neck of the little 
peninsula of Misaki to Dzushi 
station on the Yokosuka branch of 
the Tokaido Railway, a distance of 
2£ri (6 m.). 

This trip may advantageously be 
combined with a visit to Kamakura, 
the station beyond Dzushi, or to 
Yokosuka, via Will Adams' tomb. 
The whole neighbourhood offers 
delightful walks, as paths leading to 
the top of every hill command ex- 
quisite views. 



5. — Sugita and Tomioka. 

It is a very pleasant walk or 
jinrikisha ride of about 2 ri 
from Yokohama to Sugita (Inns, 
Azuma-ya and others), famous for 
its plum-blossoms ; and 1 ri fur- 
ther on to Tomioka (Inns, Kimpa- 
ro, Kaihin-ro), a favourite resort 
of the Yokohama residents, on ac- 
count of the good sea-bathing 
in Mississippi Bay. Tomioka may 
also be easily reached by boat from 
the Cutting at the back of the Settle- 
ment in about 40 min., the distance 
from the Settlement to the point 
where the boat is taken being ap- 
proximately 1 ri. 

A favourite afternoon's walk is to 
Macpherson's Hill (Mori-tsuka), on 
the way to Sugita. This hill com- 
mands a fine view of Mississippi 
Bay and of the country towards 
Fuji. 

6. — Yokosuka, Uraga, and 
Misaki. 
_ Yokosuka is the terminus of the 
Ofuna branch line, and is reached 
from Yokohama in 1J hr. Steamers 
also ply between Yokohama and 
Yokosuka. The little line of railway 
passes through characteristically 
Japanese scenery — wooded hills 
rising up abruptly from valleys laid 
out in rice-fields, with here and 
there a cottage or a tiny shrine 
half-hidden in a rustic bower. The 
train darts in and out of short 
tunnels under some of these hills 
before reaching the sea-shore at 
Yokosuka. 

YokoSJska (Inn, Mitomi-ya; For- 
eign restaurant, Kaiyo-ken). which 
but a few years ago was a poor 
village, is rapidly growing in im- 
portance, on account of the Govern- 
ment Dockyard established there. 
Foreigners may sometimes obtain 
admittance by presenting their cards 
at the gate ; but it is safer to 
provide oneself with an introduction 
from the naval authorities. The 
town is prettily situated on a land- 
locked bay. Its chief interest for 
Englishmen lies in the fact that 



Yokosuka. Uraga. 



83 



here lived and died Will Adams, 
the first Englishman that ever 
landed on the shores of Japan. 

Will Adams, a native of Gillingliam in 
Kent, was chief pilot to a fleet of Dutch 
ships which reached the southern coast 
of Japan on the 19th April, A.D. 1600. 
Brought as a prisoner inr,o the presence 
of Ieyasu, Adams soon won the favour 
of that astute ruler, who employed him 
both as a shipbuilder and as a kind of 
diplomatic agent when other English and 
Dutch traders began to arrive. Adams' 
constantly reiterated desire to behold his 
native land again and the wife and child- 
ren whom he had left behind, was to the 
last frustrated by adverse circumstances. 
He consoled himself by taking another 
wife, a Japanese, with whom he lived 
until his death in 1620 at Hemi, a suburb 
of Yokosuka, where the railway station 
now stands. 

His grave and that of his Japa- 
nese wife are situated on the top of 
a hill, -J hr. walk from the railway 
station. The Japanese call the 
place Anjin-zitka, from anjin which 
means "pilot," that having been 
the appellation by which Adams 
was commonly known. The tombs 
are of stone in the ordinary Japa- 
nese style. Will Adams' monument 
is without an inscription, while that 
of his wife bears the posthumous 
title which every good Buddhist 
receives from the priests of the 
parish temple. Not only is the 
situation of the graves most pictur- 
esque, but the eminence on which 
they stand affords a lovely view of 
land and sea. 

On Azuma-yama, a high wooded 
eminence J hr. from Yokosuka by 
boat, stands a small phallic shrine 
now much decayed. 

Very little is known as to the origin of 
phallic worship in Japan, although this 
primitive cult appears to have been near- 
ly universal in the rural districts till 
within quite recent times, when it fell 
suddenly into disfavour through con- 
tact with European ideas. Only one point 
can positively be asserted, namely, that 
its connection is not with Buddhism, but 
with Shinto. The emblems reverenced 
are sometimes natural rocks, as at Nachi 
in Kishu, at Nezu Daimyojin in the dis- 
trict of Ogata in Shinshu, and at Inujima 
in JBizen. More often they are artificial. 

The S. side of Azuma-yama has 
been cut through to afford a short 



water passage from Yokosuka to the 
Torpedo Station of Nagaura. 

Another vantage-point just out- 
side the opposite or E. end of Yoko- 
suka, is Kome-no-yama, a cliff on 
which stands a temple of the Nichi- 
ren sect, called Ryuhonji, possessing 
some good carvings. The level 
stretches at the foot of the cliffs 
have recently been reclaimed from 
the sea. 

The distance from Yokosuka to 
Uraga is 1 ri 32 did (4J m.) 
along an excellent road. A little 
more than _ half-way lies the 
hamlet of Otsu where there is 
excellent _Japanese accommodation 
at the Otsu-kwan, with a good 
beach for bathing. 

UntgA (Inn, Yoshikawa) is built 
on both sides of a very narrow fiord- 
like harbour, and the two divisions 
thus formed are called respectively 
Rig as hi- Uraga and Nis hi- Uraga, 
i.e., East and West Uraga. They are 
connected by a bridge and a ferry. 

Iii former times all junks entering the 
Bay of Yedo were stopped at Uraga for 
inspection, and it was here that Com- 
modore Perry anchored on the 8th July, 
1853, bearing with him the letter of Pre- 
sident Fillmore to the Shogun, the result 
of which was to open Japan to foreign in- 
tercourse. 

Uraga is noted for its manufac- 
ture of mizu-ame, a sweet and 
wholesome preparation from saJce- 
malt, somewhat resembling honey 
in taste. It is worth while devot- 
ing J hr. to the climb up Atago- 
yama, a hill at the back of Nishi- 
Uraga, close to the Yoshikawa inn, 
commanding a fine view of the 
town and harbour. The hills be- 
yond the sea to the E. are the 
Boshu range. 

Uraga is in daily steam com- 
munication with Tokyo. The 
steamers touch at Kachi}^ama, 
Tateyama, and other ports on the 
Boshu side. The passage to Tokyo 
occupies about 4 hours. 

It is a walk or jinrikisha ride 
of 4 ri 3 did (10 m.) to Misaki, 
first along the sands, and then over 
a cultivated upland commanding a 



84 



Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama. 



fine view of Fuji, the Hakone and 
Oyama ranges, and the opposite 
shores of Tokyo Bay. 

Misaki (Inns, Kinokuni-ya, Ao- 
yagi) has a Marine Biological 
Laboratory (Misaki Rinkai Jik- 
kcn-jo), connected with the Science 
College of the Imperial University. 
The marine fauna of this district 
being particularly rich in rare 
forms, dredging has produced re- 
sults highly interesting to the 
zoologist. A lighthouse stands on 
the island of Jogashima, 15 cho 
from the mainland, with which it 
is connected by ferry. 

One may complete the tour of 
the Sagami Peninsula, at the ex- 
tremity of which Misaki stands, by 
a pleasant walk of about 7 ri (17 m.) 
along the coast to Dzushi. 

7. — Bukenji. 
This temple of the Nichiren sect, 
about J hr. walk from the Kana- 
gawa station, is a favourite resort 
of picnic parties from Yokohama. 
From the top of the hill there is a 
fine view towards Fuji and Oyama. 
On the way there, the (clearly 
apocryphal) grave of Urashima, the 
Japanese Rip Van Winkle is pass- 
ed (see p. 65). 

8. — The Caves of Totsuka. 
(Taya no Ana.) 
Though known to foreigners as 
the Caves of Totsuka, these caves 
are really nearer to Ofuna, the 
next station beyond Totsuka on the 
Tokaido Railway, 40 min. run from 
Yokohama. They lie at a distance of 
12 or 15 cho from Ofuna station, but 
nearly 1J ri from Totsuka station. 
Whichever station one decides to 
alight at, the trip on to the caves 
can be done by jinrikisha, and lies 
through pretty scenery. The caves 
are well worth a visit ; but as they 
are apt to be wet, it is advisable to 
wear old clothes for the occasion. 
The best time to choose is the 
spring, as the cherry-trees too will 
then be seen to advantage. Candles 



are provided at a house near the 
entrance. A local guide will point 
out the Buddhist carvings with 
which the walls and ceilings are 
adorned. 

These caves, with their carvings, are a 
monument of modern Buddhist piety. 
Existing in embryo since the Middle Ages 
(tradition asserts them to have been em- 
ployed for the concealment both of troops 
and of treasure in the 14th century), they 
have only been excavated to their present 
extent by an old man still living — one 
Sato Shichizaemon, also known as Kino- 
ue-no-Inkyo — whose family have for 
generations been rich peasants in this 
locality. In the year 1851, this man was 
urged in a dream to devote his life to 
making these caves into an imperishable 
shrine to various Buddhist divinities, and 
especially to the goddess Benten. This 
he accordingly did and still continues to 
do, employing his own money for the 
enterprise and local talent for the 
carvings. 

Among the subjects pourtrayed 
may be distinguished angels, dra- 
gons, lions, birds both natural and 
mythical, the Twelve Signs of the 
Zodiac, the Eighteen Rakan, the 
Thirty-Three Kwannon of the dis- 
trict of Chichibu, and other Bud- 
dhas innumerable. To explore the 
caves properly takes about 1 hr. 
The rock being quite soft, it may be 
feared that this strange monument 
will not prove as lasting as old Mr. 
Sato piously anticipates. 

9. — Oyama. 

This celebrated mountain, 4,150 
ft. high, is most easily reached 
from Yokohama by alighting at 
Hiratsuka station on the Tokaido 
Railway, a run of a little over 1 hr.; 
thence by jinrikisha to the vill. of 
Oyama on the lower slope, Sh ri 
(9 J m.) distant. It is a favourite 
goal of pilgrims, who continue to be 
attracted to its shrine, although the 
old Buddhist objects of worship 
have here, as in so many other 
parts of the country, been replaced 
by comparatively obscure Shinto 
deities. 

Indeed, according to Satow, it is un- 
certain who these gods are ; but the best 
authority asserts that the chief deity is 



Oyama. Oiso. The Katsura-gawa. 



85 



Iwanaga-hime, sister to the goddess of 
Mount Fuji. The people of the neigh- 
bouring country-side often call the moun- 
tain by the name of Sekison-mn. Yet 
-another name is Afari-yama. 

Jinrikishas are left at the vill. of 
Koyasu {Inn, Kami-ya), along street 
of steps, which at its upper end 
changes its name to Oyaina {Inns, 
Koma-ya, with a curious garden ; 
Izu-ya). Such of the inhabitants 
as do not keep houses of entertain- 
ment for the pilgrims who flock here 
during the month of June, busy 
themselves with the manufacture of 
rosaries, toys, and domestic utensils. 
The traveller will notice that the 
posts of two shrines in the village 
.are so much cut away as scarcely 
any longer to support the roof, — a re- 
sult of the visit of many devotees who 
believe that the chips act as charms. 

The ascent and descent of the 
mountain take from 4 J to 5 hrs., 
but are far more fatiguing than 
most climbs of the same length, 
owing to the multitude of steps. 
A little way bej^ond the inns, a 
stream rushes out of a hole in a 
rocky wall some 20 ft. high, and 
falls into a pool, in which it is con- 
sidered highly meritorious to bathe 
as long as the cold can be endured. 
Ten cho further up, the entrance 
to the sacred domain is indicated 
by a torii perched on the top of a 
flight of steps. Here the traveller 
has to choose between the Otoko- 
zaka (man's ascent), and Onna- 
zaka (woman's ascent), the former 
a continuous series of steep flights 
of high steps, the latter longer but 
less fatiguing. Both paths unite 
higher up. The prospect from this 
latter point includes the plains of 
Sagami and Musashi, with the River 
Banyu, Gapes Misaki and Sunosaki 
at the entrance of Tokyo Bay, the 
sea, and the mountains of Kazusa. 
Some flights of steps lead up to the 
main temple, whence it is a climb 
of 28 cho to the summit, which com- 
mands a view of Fuji, the wooded 
top of Tanzawa, the mountains of 
Jtfikko, Enoshima, etc. 



{Tanzawa, whose name occurs se- 
veral times in this volume^ is a 
small range situated close to Oyama 
on the West. It includes Sobutsu- 
yama, Tanzawa proper, and Bodai- 
yama, but offers little interest). 

10. — Oiso and Kozu. 

Oiso is \\ hr. from Yokohama by 
the Tokaido Railway. An enjoyable 
day may here be spent loitering on 
the beautiful beach and bathing in 
the sea. There is a lovely view : — 
to the r., Fuji, the Hakone range, 
and the peninsula of Izu ; ahead, 
Vries Island; to the 1., the pro- 
montory of Misaki with the islet 
of Enoshima. The *Toryo-kwan at 
Oiso is an excellent inn in Japanese 
style, at which some simple Euro- 
pean dishes may be obtained, and 
where there is a resident doctor. 

Oiso, though apparently so insignifi- 
cant a place, boasts considerable antiquity. 
Mention of it occurs in the story of the 
Soga Brethren's Revenge, in the 12th- 
century (see p. 64). 

Kozu {Inn, Kozu-kwan), the sta- 
tion beyond Oiso, is another sea-side 
village, having much the same view, 
and well-protected from cold winter 
winds — an advantage to which the 
groves of orange-trees covering all 
the surrounding slopes bear witness. 



11. 



-The Rapids of the 
Katsura-gawa. 



A pleasant trip, combining varied 
and picturesque scenery with a dash 
of excitement, may be made by 
descending the Katsura-gawa (also 
called Sagami-gawa and Banyu 
lower down) from Yose on the Ko- 
shu Kaido (see Rte. 26) to Atsugi 
near Hiratsuka Station on the To- 
kaido. The best plan is to take 
train to Hachioji, which will en- 
able one to be at Yose {Inn, Kado-ya) 
in time for dinner, that village being 
reached by basha from Hachioji in 
about 3 hrs. A boat should at 
once be ordered for the next morn- 
ing, the cost ranging from $3. 
The first portion of the journey is 



Route 5. — Yokohama to Tokyo by Rail. 



very pretty, as the river runs 
between precipitous rocky bluffs 
covered with a variety of trees, the 
azalea being conspicuous in spring 
and the maple in autumn. Some 
distance down, the pumping station 
of the water-works which supply 
Yokohama is seen on the 1. bank, 
where one may land to inspect the 
machinery. At the hamlet of Oi, 2-J 
hrs. from Yose, the best part of 
the journey comes to an end. The 
rest occupies about 3 hrs., the river 
having entered the plain long before 
we arrive at Atsugi. It is possible 
to go all the way to Hiratsuka by 
boat in about the same time(ljhr.), 
as the distance can be done by 
jinrikisha ; but the road is generally 
preferred. 



EOUTE 3. 

Yokohama to Tokyo by Bail. 


<D OS 

o d 

3 1 


Names 

of 
Stations. 


Remarks. 


lim. 
5| 
7f 
12 

m 

18 


YOKOHAMA 

Kanagawa 

Tsurumi 


) Express runs 
J, tlirougli. 

/Change carri- 
ages for Sub- 

J urban and 
Northern Rail- 

\ways. 
ShimbashiSt. 


Kawasaki 

Omori 


Shinagawa 

TOKYO 





This railway, built by English 
engineers and finished in the autumn 
of 1872, was the first line opened 
to traffic in Japan. The journey 
from Yokohama to Tokyo occu- 
pies 50 min. The line skirts the 
shores of Tokyo Bay, with the old 
Tokaido highivay recognisable at 
intervals on the r. by its avenue of 
pines. Glimpses are caught of the 
hills of Kazusa beyond the Bay. 



Soon after leaving Yokohama, the 
Tokaido Kailway branches off 1. 
Observe the fine view of Fuji near 
the first station, 

Kanagawa, once a noted post- 
town on the Tokaido, and intimately 
connected with the early settlement 
of foreigners in this part of Japan. 
(See p. 76). 

On the Tokaido avenue near Namavnugi, 
between this station and the next, occur- 
red the murder of 0. L. Richardson, who, 
with two other Englishmen and a lady, 
got entangled in the armed procession of 
Shimazu Saburo, Prince of Satsuma, on 
the 14th September, 1862, an event which 
ultimately led to the bombardment of 
Kagoshima. The whole story will be 
found iu Black's Young Japan, Chap. 13. 

Kawasaki {Inn, Asada-ya) is 
noted for a temple situated If m. 
from the station, dedicated to Kobe* 
Daishi, and commonly known as 
Daishi Sama. 

Local legend attributes the sanctity of 
this place to an image of Kobo Daishi 
carved by that saint himself while in 
China, and consigned by him to the 
waves. It floated to this coast, where it 
was caught in a fisherman's net, and 
being conveyed ashore, performed nume- 
rous miracles. The trees in the temple- 
grounds, trained in the shape of junks 
under sail, attest the devotion paid to 
this holy image by the sea-faring folk. 

So great is its popularity that 
special trains are run on the 
21st of each month to accommo- 
date the crowds that visit it. 
The chief festival takes place on 
the 21st March, when the grounds 
are rilled with cheap stalls and itin- 
erant shows. The temple possesses 
some excellent carvings. A Plum 
Garden (Bai-en), with pleasant tea- 
houses attached, adjoins the temple 
grounds, and is one of the show- 
places of the fragrant blossom. The 
river crossed just beyond Kawasaki 
is the Tamagawa or Eokugo, the 
upper course of which is roman- 
tically beautiful and is described in 
Kte. 26, Sect. 3. Extensive pear 
orchards stretch on either side of 
the line. Between this station and 
the next, the whole Hakone range, 
Buko-zan, and the other mountains 



CHIEF SIGHTS OF 
TOKYO 





^ip^r 




Route 4. — Tokyo. 



87 



of Chichibu come in view ahead to 
the 1. On approaching 

Omori, the fine wooded bluff seen 
1. is the site of the noted monastery 
of Ikegami. Immediately above the 
station lie the grounds of a tea- 
house commanding a fine prospect, 
and the range of the Imperial 
Japanese _ Rifle Club. The shell- 
heaps of Omori discovered by Prof. 
Morse have furnished interesting 
prehistoric remains, which have 
been the subject of vehement dis- 
cussion among the learned. At 

SSsinagrawa, are seen the forts 
built in Tokyo Bay during the latter 
days of the Shogunate, to protect 
the approach to the great city, but 
now dismantled because useless in 
modern warfare. Just beyond the 
gas-works, the line skirts r. the 
prettily laid out garden of the Shiba 
Bikyu, one of the minor Imperial 
palaces. A little further on, the 
noble trees in the grounds of the 
summer palace called Enryo-kwan 
are seen also to the r., and soon 
after, the train enters the 

ShiiBjlbashi terminus, and the 
traveller is in Tokyo. 



ROUTE 4. 

Tokyo. 

Tokyo, also called To/cei, former- 
ly Yedo. 

Hotels. — Imperial (Teikoku) Hotel 
and Tokyo Hotel, both centrally 
situated; Hotel Metropole, in Tsuki- 
ji ; Seiyo-ken, near the Shimbashi 
terminus, with branch inUeno Park. 

Japanese Inns. — Fushimi-ya, in 
Koku-cho ; Higuchi-ya, in Shiro- 
kane-cho ; Karimame-ya, in Baku- 
ro-cho — all in the Nihon-bashi 
district. 

Bestaurants. — {Foreign food) Fu- 
getsu-do, near Shimbashi, with 
confectionery shop ; San-en-tei, in 
Shiba Park ; Fujimi-ken, not far 



from the British Legation. — (Japa- 
nese food) Yaozen, at San-ya, Asa- 
kusa ; Yaomatsu, at Mukojima ; 
Hirasei, in Fukagawa ; Tokiwa-ya, 
in Hama-cho (Kyu Hana-Yashiki). 
Tea-houses (tor entertainments in 
Japanese style). — Nakamura-ro, at 
Ryogoku ; Ibumura-ro, at Asakusa ; 
O-un-tei, in Ueno Park. 

Club. — The Tokyo Club, occupy- 
ing a portion of the Rokumei-kwan, 
5 min. from Shimbashi terminus. 

Foreign Legations. — Austria, 15, 
Kami Ni-bancho ; France, 1, Iida- 
machi Itchome ; Germany, 14, 
Nagata-cho ; Great Britain, 1, 
Kojimachi Go-bancho ; Holland 
(Denmark and Norway), 3, Shiba 
Sakae-cho ; Italy, 4, Sannen-cho; 
Russia, 1, Ura-Kasumi-ga-seki ; 
United States, 1, Akasaka Enoki- 
zaka. 

General Post Office. — At Yedo- 
bashi. 

Central Telegraph Office. — In Ko- 
biki-cho, near the Shimbashi ter- 
minus. Sub-offices in various dis- 
tricts of the city. 

Telephone Exchange. — At No. 1, 
Kojimachi, Zeuigame-cho, with 
numerous Call Offices in the city. 
Parks.— Shiba, Ueno, & Asakusa. 
Museums. — TheHakubufcsu-kwan, 
in Ueno Park ; Educational Mu- 
seum, in the Seido at Hongo ; 
Museum of Arms (Yushu-Jciuan), in 
the grounds of the Shokonsha 
temple at Koji-machi. 

Public Library. — The Tosho- 
kwan, in Ueno Park. 

Churches. — Church of England, 
in Shiba Sakae-cho ; American 
Episcopal, Union Church (Pro- 
testant), Roman Catholic, — all in 
Tsukiji ; Russian Orthodox, at 
Suruga-dai. 

Theatres. — Kabuki-za, in Kobiki- 
cho ; Fukano-za, in Tsukiji ; 
Haruki-za, in Hongo. 

Wrestling. — At Eko-in, in Honjo, 
twice yearly for ten days in winter 
and spring. Also at other times 
and places not fixed. 

Bazaar (Kivankoba). — In Shiba 
Park. Fixed prices. 



88 



Route 4.— Tokyo. 



A Eailway, officially styled the 
Tokyo and Akabane Junction, 
but generally known as the Sub- 
urban or Circular Baihoay, affords 
an easy means of reaching certain 
points on the outskirts of the city. 
The following is a schedule : — 





Names 




g c,c 


of 


Remarks. 


££ 2 






82 


Stations. 






SHIMBASHI. 




3jm. 


Shinagawa. 




5 


Meguro. 




n 


Sftibuya. 




9f 


Sliinjiku Jet 


j Change for Ha- 
\ chidji Branch. 


llf 


Ztfejiro. 




13f 


Itabashi. 




16| 


AKABANE Jet. 


1 Change for the 
) North. 



Conveyances. — Jinrikishas are in 
universal use. Tramcars, not much 
patronised by the gentry or by 
Europeans, because usually crowded 
by the Japanese lower classes, run 
from the Shimbashi terminus along 
the principal thoroughfares to Ueno 
and Asakusa. Omnibuses of a sort 
are numerous. 

Livery stables. — Tokyo Basha 
Kabu-shiki Gwaisha, with offices at 
the Imperial Hotel, at Monzeki- 
mae in Tsukiji, and at Kanda 
Nishiki-cho. 

Steam Communication. — The com- 
pany called Tokyo Wan Kisen- 
Givaislia runs steamers daily to Ura- 
ga and Yokosuka, Chiba, Kisarazu, 
and other ports on the opposite side 
of the bay, and occasionally toKomi- 
nato and other ports on the Pacific 
Coast of the Kazusa-Boshu penin- 
sula, to Atami, and other ports in 
Izu. Its steamers start from 
Reigan-jima. 

The Tsu-un Gwaisha runs daily 
steamers on the Tonegawa, — the 
Kami-Tone, or Upper River line, 
taking passengers to Gyotoku, Seki- 
yado, Koga, and numerous minor 
villages, while the Shimo-Tone, or 
Lower River line, branches off E. 



at Shiukawafor Sawara, Tsunomiya, 
and Omigajvva, whence S. to Choshi, 
and N. to Ofunatsu and Hokoda on 
the Kita-ura Lagoon. These steam- 
ers start from Ryogoku-bashi. 

The local steamers are but little 
used by foreigners and by the 
better class of Japanese, as they are 
small and make scant pretension 
to comfort. There is not even 
always a distinction of classes, 
though it is sometimes possible to 
secure a separate room by paying 
the price of five tickets. The fares 
are extremely low. 

The following are some of the 
chief shops at which articles likely 
to interest the tourist are sold : — 

Porcelain. — Kawamoto, at No. 6, 
Ginza Ni-chome ; Mikawa-ya, at 
Owari-cho Itchome ; Takizawa, at 
Kakigara-cho Itchome. 

Lacquer. — Kuroe-ya, at Tori It- 
chome ; Suruga-ya, in Bakuro-cho. 

Bronze. — Miyao, at No. 1, Nihon- 
bashi Hon-Shirokane-cho (large 
things) ; Mikawa-ya, at Soto-Kanda 
Hatago-cho Itchome (chiefly small 
things suited to foreign needs). 

Cloisonne. — Namikawa, at No. 8, 
Nihon-bashi Shin-emon-cho. 

Ivory. — Wakatake, at No. 6 Ni- 
hon-bashi Hisamatsu-cho. 

Bamboo - work. — Fujimura, at 
Kanda Misaki-cho San-chome. 

Old Silk and Embroideries. — Iwa- 
moto Denshichi, at No. 16, Nihon- 
bashi Kawasekoku-cho ; Morita, at 
No. 8, Nihon-bashi Sanai-cho. 

Silk Mercers. — Daimaru, in Hata- 
go-cho ; Echigo-ya, in Muro-machi ; 
Shiroki-ya in Tori Itchome ; Mizu- 
shima (chiefly European articles for 
presents), in Honcho Itchome, — all 
in the Nihon-bashi district. Ueda- 
ya, at 15, Yariya-cho, Kyoba- 
shi. 

Paper and Fans. — Haibara, No. 
1, Nihon-bashi Tori Itchome. 

Crape Paper Picture Books. — 
Hasegawa, in Hiyoshi-chd near 
Shimbashi Station. 

Old Prints. — Kobayashi, at Asa- 
kusa Komakata. 

Photographers. — Ogawa, at Kanda 



Shops. Festivals. 



89 



Misaki-cho ; Suzuki onKudan-zaka ; 
Egi, at Shimbashi Maruya-cho. 

Photographic Depots.— Ogawa, at 
No. 13, Kyobashi, Hiyoshi-cho ; 
Okamoto at Ginza Shi-chome 
Yoko-cho. 

Bookseller. — Maruzen, at Nihon- 
bashi Tori San-cbome. 

Bazaar. — The Kwankoba in Shiba 
Park. 

Curios in General. — Murata Kim- 
bei, at Nihon-bashi Kawasekoku- 



cho ; Sawada-ya, at No. 17, Ginza It- 
chome ; Daizen, in Naka-dori (chief- 
ly for expensive articles) ; Osaka-ya, 
at No. 20, Nihon-bashi Aomono-chd ; 
Ebi-ya, at No. 5. Nihon-bashi Jik- 
ken-dana. 

There is also a very interesting 
street called Naka-dori, running 
parallel to the main thoroughfare 
between Kyobashi and Nihon-bashi, 
full of shops where old curios and 
brocade are exposed for sale. 



Chief Populab Festivals. 



NAME OF FESTIVAL. 



WHERE HELD. 



Monthly, 5th Suitengu Kakigara-cho. 

Monthly, 10th (October, 

special) Kompira Tora-no-mon. 

Monthly, 17-18th Kwannon Asakusa. 

Monthly, 21st (March, 

special) Daishi 

Monthly, 24th (September, 

special) Atago Jinja 

First Day of the Hare 

(hatsu-u) Myokendo 

April 17th Toshogu 

April 18th Sanja Matsuri Asakusa. 

May 6 8th ShoTconsha (races, 

wrestling, etc.) .... 

June 3rd Kumano Jinja 

June 3-14th Tennd Matsuri < 



Kawasaki. 

Atago-shita. 

Yanagi-shima. 

Shiba and Ueno Parks. 



Kudan. 

ligura and Aoyama. 
Shinagawa, Yotsuya, 
Asakusa, Senji. 



July 15th 

July 15th 

September ll-20th 
September 14-15th 



Mid- July Kawa-biraki (Opening 

of the River) Ryogoku. 

July 7-14th Tennd Matsuri Nakabashi. 

July 9-10th Shi-man Rohu-sen 

Nichi Asakusa Kwannon. 

. . Sanno Nagata-cho. 

.. Hikawa Jinja Akasaka. 

. . Shimmei Matsuri .... Shiba. 

. . Kanda Myojin Kanda. 

October 12-13th O EshiJci (Anniversary 

of Nichiren's death) Ikegami and Hori-no- 
uchi. 

October 15th Kanda Myojin Kanda. 

November 6-8th ShoJconsha, (races, etc.) Kudan. 

November 22-28th Ko Mairi Monzeki temple at 

Asakusa. 
November (on Days of the 

Bird, tori no hi) Tori no Machi Asakusa. 

Temples having monthly festivals are most crowded in January, 
May, and September. Further, the 1st, 15th, and 28th of each month 
are more or less specially observed. 



90 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



Akin to the popular festivals (matsuri or emiichi), are the following 
fairs (ichi), held at the close of the year for the citizens to make seasonable 
purchases : — 



NAME OF FESTIVAL. 



WHEEE HELD. 



December 13th Tenno Sama Shinagawa, 

December 15th Hachiman Fukagawa. 

December 17-18th Kwannon Asakusa. 

December 20-21st Kanda Myojin Kanda. 

December 22-23rd Shimmei Shiba. 

December 23-24th Atago Atago-shita. 

December 25th Tenjin Hirakawa. 

December 27-28th Fudo Yagen-bori. 



Flowers. 

Phmi-blossoms (Time). — Kamada, 
nearOmori Station; Kameido Ume- 
yashiki, Kinegawa Ume-yashiki, 
both close to Mukojima, end of 
February and beginning of March, 
sometimes earlier. 

Cherry -blossoms (Sakur a). — Ueno, 
Mukojima, and Shiba, early in 
April ; Koganei, middle of April. 
So many avenues of cherry-trees 
have been planted in Tokyo during 
the last twenty years, that for a 
brief space in spring the whole city 
is more or less a show of these 
lovely blossoms. 

Peonies (Botan). — Florists' gar- 
dens at Somei, end of April ; Sho- 
kwa-en in Azabu, beginning of May. 

Wistarias (Fuji). - Kameido, first 
week in May. 

Azaleas_ [Tsutsuji). — Florists' gar- 
dens at Okubo-mura, early in May. 

Irises (Hana-shobu). — Horikiri, 
beyond Mukojima, early in June. 

Convolvuli ( Asagao ). — Florists' 
gardens at Iriya in Shitaya, end of 
July and beginning of August. 

Lotus-flowers (Hasu). — Lake Shi- 
nobazu at Ueno, and the Castle 
moats, beginning of August. These 
flowers can only be seen to perfec- 
tion during the morning hours. 

Chrysanthemums (Kiku). — Dan- 
go-zaka and Asakusa, beginning of 
November. 

Maples (Momiji). — Kaianji at 
Bhinagawa, beginning of November ; 
Oji, middle of November. 

Principal Places Worth Visit- 
ing. — Shiba and Ueno Parks (Tombs 



of the Tokugawa Shoguns in both, 
the former more easily accessible). 
Temple of Kwannon at Asakusa, 
Hakubutsu-kwan Museum at Ueno, 
the Kwankoba Bazaar in Shiba, 
Atago Tower for view of the city. 
Drive along the Main Street (Ginza) 
to Nihon-bashi and round the inner 
moat (Naka-bori). 

Time to Chief Points by jinrikisha 
with two men. 

From Shimbashi terminus to : — 

Imperial Hotel 5 Mim 

Tokyo Hotel 7 „ 

Hotel Metropole 12 „ 

Rokumei-kwan 5 ,, 

British Legation 18 ,, 

United States Legation . . 10 ,, 

Shiba Park 10 „ 

Ueno Park 35 ,, 

Asakusa (Kwannon) 40 ,, 

History and Topography.— Previous 
to its becoming the military capital of 
Japan in the year 1590, Yedo was little 
more than a rude fortress surrounded by 
a few scattered villages. This fortress 
was founded in 1456 by a certain Ota 
Dokwan. Prom 1486 to' 1524, it was held 
by vassals of the Uesugi family, but in 
the latter year was taken from them by 
llojo Ujitsuna, who was then rising to be 
ruler of the Eastern provinces, and who had 
his capital at Odawara, close to the foot of 
the Hakone pass. In the 13th century, 
the district now called Asakusa stood 
on the sea-shore, at the mouth of a con- 
siderable inlet. The name Yedo means 
" Estuary Gate." At the time Ie.vasu took 
possession in 1590, the coast on the E. side 
of the river had advanced greatly below 
Asakusa ; but larger lagoons still occupied 
areas which, have since been filled up and 
built over. Ota Dokwan's fortress occupied 
a portion of the ground which was later 
included in the Palace of the Shoguns and 
now in that of His Majesty the Emperor. 



History and Topography. 



91 



The Shogun's Palace, or Castle as it was 
often called, was several times burnt 
down and rebuilt, and was totally de- 
stroyed by a fire which, took place on the 
17th July, 1863. A separate building in 
the enclosure which had been the resid- 
ence of the heir-apparent to the Shogun- 
ate, was appropriated for the Emperor's 
use after the removal of H.M. to Tokyo 
in 1868. But this too, was burnt down on 
the night of the 5th May, 1873. From that 
time forward the Emperor occupied the 
Palace at Aoyama, now inhabited by the 
Crown 1'rince, until the construction on 
the old site in 1889 of a new Palace, semi- 
Japanese and senii-foriegn in style. Yedo 
has been repeatedly visited by destructive 
fires. In 1601 the whole city was laid in 
ashes. At that time all the houses were 
thatched with grass, the use of tiles not 
naving been allowed to the citizens till 
the middle of the 17th century. Great 
fires occurred in 1657 and again in 
1668. The greatest conflagration of more 
modern times took place in 1845. In 
1603 a large part of the hill now called 
Suruga-dai was cut away, and the soil 
used to fill up four square miles of shallow 
inlets on the S. side of the town. The 
same year witnessed the construction of 
the great bridge, Nihon-bashi, from which 
distances have since been measured along 
the chief roads of the ICmpire. In 1642, a 
regulation was made whereby the Daimyos 
were obliged to reside alternately in Yedo 
and on their domains for certain fixed 
periods. A map dated 1632 shows that the 
greater part of what now forms the Kyobi- 
shi district, including Tsukiji, was re- 
claimed from the sea subsequent to that 
date. Up to about the year 1H50, the 
townspeople depended for their water 
supply on the stream from Kanda-yama 
and the lake of Tame-ike; but shortly 
afterwards an aqueduct was constructed 
on the N. side to bring water from the 
I-no-kashira, Zempukuji, and Myosho-ji 
lakes, as well as from the Tamagawa into 
the city. In 1653, the Tamagawa aque- 
duct, which enters the city by way of 
Yotsuya, was constructed, its length 
being about 27 miles. 

In 166o, the first theatre was built in 
Kobiki-cho by one Merita Kan-ya. whose 
name has been borne by successive sene- 
rations Of impresari. The history of the 
city for the most part consists of a succes- 
sion of earthquakes, fires, typhoons. 
epidemics, Hoods, and droughts. The 
year 1703 was marked by a great earth- 
quake ; it is said that on this occasion the 
deaths in Yedo alone were 37,000. An 
epidemic which ra^ed in 1773 is stated to 
have carried off 190,000 persons, chiefly of 
the lower classes. On the 11th November, 
1855. the last great earthquake occurred, 
when the loss of life was computed at 
100,000 persons. But recent investigations 
have shown that this was a gross exag- 
geration. 
, On the 13th September, 1868, the desig- 



nation of the city was changed to Tokyo 
or Tokei, either being a correct way of 
pronouncing the two Chinese characters- 
HC J5> which are used in writing the name, 
the signification of which is "Eastern 
Capital," given in contradistinction to 
Saikyo, H JEj>, or "Western Capital," ap- 
plied at the same time to Kyoto. In 
November of the same year the Mikado 
visited Tokyo for the first time, and it 
became the recognised seat of Govern- 
ment on 26th March, 1869. A great 
change has since taken place in the 
outward appearance of the city . Most of 
the yashiki, or mansions of the territorial 
nobility, have been pulled down to make 
room for new buildings better adapted to 
modern needs. At the same time, the 
disappearance of the two-sworded men, 
the supersession of the palanquin {Jcago) 
by the jinrikisha, the very general adop- 
tion of foreign dress, and the European 
style of dressing the hair which is now 
almost universal among the men, have 
robbed the streets of the picturesqueness 
formerly so attractive to the foreign visi- 
tor. The construction of buildings in 
European style dates from about 1872. 
Tokyo was thrown open to foreign travel 
in 1869, but not to foreign residence. 
Tsukiji, the foreign concession (Kyoryu- 
chi),^ is still the only quarter in which 
foreigners can lease land. 

The city is divided for administrative 
purposes into fifteen districts {Ku , viz: — 
1, Koji-machi. 2, Kanda. 3, Nihon-bashi. 
4, Kyo-bashi. 5, Shiba. 6, Azabu. 7, Aka- 
saka, 8, Yotsuya. 9,Ushigome. 10, Koishi- 
kawa. H,Hongo. 12, Shitaya. 13, Asaku- 
sa. 14, Honjo. 15, Fukagawa. The princi- 
pal suburbs are Shinasrawa S., on the 
Tokaido; Naito Shinjiku W„ on the 
Chichibu road; Itabashi N W., on the 
Nakasendo; and Senji N. E., on the 
Oshu Kaido. Tokyo is popularly estimat- 
ed to cover an area of four ri in every 
direction, in other words, a hundred 
square miles. The population is officially 
stated to be, in round numbers, 1,628.001), 
but this includes the whole metropolitan 
district {Tokyo Fn). The city proper has 
under a million. Tokyo was connected 
by railway with Yokohama in the autumn 
of 1872 ; horse tramways were laid along 
the main thoroughfares in 1882 ; the first 
electric lighting company w r as formed in 
1885, and a telephone exchange was 
opened in 1890. In the same year, a short 
electrical railway was laid within the 
grounds of the IJeno Park, 'ihree great 
Industrial Exhibitions have been held in 
Tokyo, the first in 1877, and the last in 
1890. The houses of the Imperial Diet, 
inaugurated in November, 1890, "were 
burnt down two months later but rebuilt 
in time for the assembling of the Diet in 
November, 1881. A plan of city improve- 
ment has recently been adopted, in 
consequence of which the narrower streets 
of any district burnt down are widened, 



92 



Boute 4. — Tokyo. 



and better sanitary arrangements intro- 
duced. 

Owing to the shape and the vast 
extent of the city, it is impossible 
to combine all the chief sights in a 
single round. The best plan is to 
take them in groups, according to 
the direction in which they lie. 
The following description proceeds 
on this principle. 

1.— The Kwankoba. Shiba Park. 
Temples and Tombs of the Sho- 
guns. Zempukuji. The Forty- 
seven Ronins. Nyoraiji. Ata- 

GO-YAMA. 

From the Shimbashi Railway 
terminus, a long narrow street, 
called HiJcage-cho at the beginning 
and Shimmei-mae at the end, leads 
to Shiba Park, and is particularly 
well worth strolling along for the 
sake of the shops. Nowhere can 
one more easily pick up the thou- 
sand and one little articles that are 
in daily use among the people. 

Passing through the Daimon or 
Great Gate, we turn through the 
park r. to the Kivankdba, the best 
bazaar in Tokyo, where everything 
is sold at fixed prices. If the trav- 
eller comes straight from the 
Imperial Hotel, he will enter Shiba 
Park by the N. gate (Onari-Mon) 
and have the Kwankoba on his 1. 

Shiba Park (S'hiba Kbsnehi) formed, till 
1877, the grounds of the great Buddhist 
temple of Zojoji, the head-quarters in this 
city of the Jodo sect. Here are still 
preserved the Mortuary Temples ( Go Hei- 
ya) of several of the Tokugawa Shoguns, 
Ieyasu, the founder of that dynasty and 
of Yedo, having taken Zojoji under his 
special protection, and chosen it as the 
temple where the funeral tablets (iliai) of 
himself and his descendants should be 
preserved. The monastery had been 
originally founded in 1393, but was re- 
moved io 1596 to the present site. The 
partial transfer of the temple to the Shin- 
toists, in 1873, naturally led to friction 
between them and the Buddhists, r.he 
gravest consequence of which was the 
destruction by fire of the magnificent 
main building on the 1st January, 1874. It 
has lately been replaced by a new build- 
ing, smaller and much less beautiful. 
Only the large gate (summon) remains just 



as it was built in 1623. This temple, 
which is used for popular worship, must 
not be mistaken for one of the Mortuary- 
Temples. 

The following is a list of the Tokugawa 
Shoguns. Those whose names are marked 
with an asterisk are buried at Ueno, at 
the opposite end of Tokyo ; those whose 
names have a dagger prefixed lie at 
Nikko, 100 miles to the N. of Tokyo, and 
the others at Shiba. 



PERSONAL 

NAMK. 



POSTHUMOUS 
TITLE. 



DIED. 
A.D. 



1. fleyasu Toshogu 1616 

2. Hidetada Taitokuin 1632 

3. flemitsu Taiyuin 1651 

4. *Ietsuna Genyuin 1680 

5. *Tsunayoshi ....loken-in 1709 

6. lenobu Bunshoin 1713 

7. letsugu Yushoin 1716 

8. *Yoshimune ...Yutokuin 1751 

9. Ieshige Jun shin-in 1761 

10. *Ieharu Shimmeiin 1786 

11. *Ienari BunKyoin 1841 

12. leyoshi Shintokuin 1853 

13. *Iesada Onkyoin 1858 

14. Iemochi Shotokuin 1866 

15. Yoshinobu (usually called Kei- 

ki), abdicated, and is still living 
at Shizuoka in Suruga. 

The Sliifoa Temples, which count 
among the chief marvels of Japa- 
nese art, should, if possible, be 
visited on the forenoou of a fine 
day. Otherwise their situation, and 
the black bearding which has been 
put up to ward off the attacks of 
the weather, will interfere with a 
full enjoyment of their minutely 
elaborate decorations. They may 
best be taken in the following order. 
Persons pressed for time might limit 
themselves to an inspection of the 
temple and. tomb (Octagonal Shrine) 
of the 2nd Shogun only (see p. 97). 

The entrance to the Mortuary 
Chapels of letsugu and Ieshige, 
the 7th and 9th Shoguns, is 
immediately opposite the Kwan- 
koba. A highly ornamented gate 
called the Ni-Ten Mon, or Gate 
of the Two Deva Kings, leads into 
a court containing numerous stone 
lanterns offered by Daimyos as a 
mark of respect to the memory of 
their deceased lord and master, the 
Shogun. At the opposite end of the 
court is the Clioka-gaJcu Mon, or 
Gate of the Imperial Tablet, so 
called from a tablet hung over the 



Shiba I'emples. 



93 



lintel, containing in gold letters the 
posthumous name of the 7th Shogun 
in the fac-simile of the hand- writ- 
ing of the Mikado known to history 
as Naka-no-Mikado-no-In (d. 1737). 
This gate is remarkable for its 
pillars with dragons twisted round 
them, originally gilt over a coating 
of red oxide of iron. Passing 
through this gate, we enter an inner 
court lined with bronze lanterns, 
two hundred and twelve in all, 
dating some from A.D. 1716, some 
from 1761, also the gift of Daimyos, 
and having r. a belfry and 1. a 
cistern for holy water. Hence 
through a third gate called the 
O Kara Mon, or Chinese Gate, 
on either side of which stretches a 
gallery with beautifully painted 
carvings of flowers and birds in the 
panels. Observe the angel on the 
ceiling, the work of Kano Ryosetsu. 
A short colonnade of black pillars 
edged with gold leads to the portico 
of the temple, where, among other 
marvels of carving, are two dragons, 
called " the Ascending and Descend- 
ing Dragons " (Nobori-ryu and 
Kudari-ryu), serving as beams to 
connect the temple with two pillars 
outside. 

Up to this point the public has 
free admittance. Those desirous 
of seeing the interior of the temple, 
together with the tombs, must apply 
to the custodian, and pay him on 
departing a fee of 20 cents per head. 
Boots must of course be removed 
before entering. These observations 
hold good at all the other Mortuary 
Temples. The visitor is led directly 
into the sanctum containing the 
altar. And here be it observed that 
each of these Mortuary Temples 
consists of three parts, — an outer 
oratory (haiden), a connecting gal- 
lery or corridor (ai-no-ma), and an 
inner sanctum (honden). In each 
of these one finds oneself in a blaze 
of gold, colours, and elaborate ara- 
besques, which, especially if the 
day be fine, quite dazzle the eye by 
their brilliancy. In feudal times, 
when the Shogun came to worship 



the spirits of his ancestors, he alone 
ascended to the sanctum, the 
greater Daimyos ranged themselves 
next to him in the corridor below, 
and the lesser nobility occupied 
the oratory. 

The altar of this temple is separat- 
ed from the corridor by one of those 
bamboo blinds bound with silk, 
which, together with a peculiar Kind 
of banner, temper the brilliancy of 
the other decorations. The sanctum 
contains three double-roofed shrines 
of the most gorgeous gold lacquer, 
picked out with body-colour below 
the eaves, and held together by 
costly and elaborate metal-work. 
That to the r. contains a wooden 
image of the father of the 6th 
Shogun, that in the middle an im- 
age of the 7th Shogun, and that to 
the 1. one of the 9th Shogun, 
together with the funeral tablets of 
each. The images, which are con- 
sidered sacred because presented by 
Mikados, are never shown. On 
either side of each shrine stand 
wooden statuettes of the Shi Tennd, 
who guard the world against 
the attacks of demons. In front 
are Kwannon and Benten. The 
wall at the back is gilt, while the 
altar and two tables in front are of 
splendid red lacquer. In innume- 
rable places may be seen the three- 
leaved Asarum or Kamo-aoi, which 
is the crest of the Tokugawa family, 
and the lotus, the Buddhist emblem 
of purity. The altar is protected at 
night by massive gilt gates orna- 
mented with the family crest and 
conventional flowers. Descending 
into the corridor, and noticing as 
we pass the gorgeous panelling of 
the ceiling, we reach the oratory, 
where the decorations are on a 
similar scale of magnificence. Ob- 
serve the conventional paintings of 
lions on the wall. Under the 
baldachin sits on festival days (12th 
and 13th of each month, when visi- 
tors are not admitted) the abbot of 
Zojoji, while the priests are ranged 
around at small lacquer tables. 
The lacquer boxes on the latter 



Shiba Temples. 



95 



contain scrolls of the Buddhist 
sutras. As the guide leads the 
way from the temple to the tombs, 
observe on the eaves the carvings of 
musical instruments, lions, dragons, 
etc. Observe, too, the carvings of 
unicorns (Jcirin) on the Oshi-kiri 
Mon, or Dividing Gate, which is 
now passed through. Although the 
carving is open-work, the dragons 
appear quite different according to 
the side from which they are view- 
ed. Thence, through a noble court 
with more bronze lanterns, to a 
stone staircase which leads up to 
the site to the Tombs, — that of the 
7th Shogun to the 1., that of the 
9th Shogun to the r. Below each 
tomb is a highly decorated oratory. 
The tombs are of stone, in the shape 
called koto (treasure shrine), which 
somewhat resembles a pagoda. They 
stand on an octagonal granite base, 
with a stone balustrade. Their 
simplicity contrasts strongly with 
the lavish magnificence of all that 
goes before. As Mitford says in his 
Tales of Old Japan, " the sermon 
may have been preached by design, 
or it may have been by accident, 
but the lesson is there." 

The pattern on the black copper 
facing round the wall enclosing the 
tomb, is intended to represent the 
waves of the sea. The body is said 
to be buried at a depth of 20 ft., 
and to have been coated with ver- 
milion and charcoal powder to 
prevent decay. The tomb of the 
9th Shogun is a replica of that of 
the 7th. On leaving this place, we 
pass the oratory of the 7th Shogun, 



and notice the exquisite carvings in 
high relief of peacocks on the 
panels of the gate. 

Leaving this temple by the Cho- 
Icu-galcii Mon, and turning r. 
through rows of stone lanterns, we 
soon reach r. another splendidly 
carved gate, which gives access to the 
temple and tombs of the 6th, 12th, 
and 14th Shoguns. In arrange- 
ment, the temple closely resembles 
the one we have just left ; but the 
gilt is fresher, the carvings truer to 
nature, and the general impression, 
more magnificent, the result per- 
haps of the interest taken by the 
6th Shogun in the preparation of 
his own last resting-place. The 
flowers and birds in the spaces 
between the cornice and the lintel 
of the oratory are perfect, both in 
chiselling and in delicacy of colour. 
The coffered ceiling is a master- 
piece ; and the vista of the altar, 
as one stands under the baldachin, 
reveals an indescribable glory of 
blended gold and colours. The 
order of the shrines on the altar is, 
from r. to 1., that of the 12th, 6th, 
and 14th Shoguns, the shrine of the 
last containing also the funeral 
tablet of his consort. 

From the Mortuary Temple, a 
flight of steps at the back leads up 
to the tombs of these three Shoguns 
and of the consort of the 14th, who 
was aunt to the present Mikado, and 
after the death of her husband bore 
the title of Sei-kwan-In-no-Miya. 
Her obsequies, in 1877, were the last 
performed within these precincts. 
Each tomb has a small oratory at- 



Index to Plan of Shiba Temples. 



1. Ni-Ten Mon. 

2. Temple of 7th and 9th Shoguns. 

3. Tombs of 7th and 9th Shoguns. 

4. Temple of 6th, 12th and 14th Sho- 

guns. 

5. Tombs of 6th, 12th and 14th Sho- 

guns. 

6. Great Gate (Sammon). 

7. Shrine of Five Hundred Rakan. 

8. Priests' Apartments. 



9. Zojoji. 

10. Gokoku-den. 

11. Ten-ei-in. 

12. Temple of 2nd Shogun. 

13. Octagonal Hall (HakkaJcu-dd). 

14. Ankoku-den (Toshogu). 

15. Maruyama. 

16. Pagoda. 

17. Shrine of Benten. 

18. Koyo-kwan (Maple Club). 



96 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



tached. The fine bronze gate of the 
enclosure of No. 6, which is the first 
tomb reached, is said to be the work 
of Korean artificers; but the design 
was probably furnished by a Japanese 
draughtsman. The dragons in low 
relief on the r. and 1., both inside 
and out, are specially worthy of 
attention. Next to it is the tomb 
of the 12th Shogun, and beyond it 
again those of the 14th and his 
consort. The tomb of this princess 
is of bronze and marked by the 
Imperial crest, the sixteen-petalled 
chrysanthemum. 

Quitting the grounds of this 
Mortuary Temple by a small side 
door to the r., we turn down 1. to 
the main road, and enter the 
grounds of the Monastery of Zojoji 
by the Great Gate (Sammon), which 
is the oldest (271 years) of all the tem- 
ple buildings, it having escaped the 
great fire of 1874. The upper storey, 
which is reached by an extremely 
steep staircase, contains large images 
of the Sixteen Rakan, coloured and 
seated in an artificial rockwork. 
In the middle is Shaka, finely gilt. 
These can generally be seen only 
on application to the priests. To the 
r. is a small shrine dedicated to 
the Five Hundred Rattan, having 
in front of it a stone with the im- 
print of Buddha's feet, which are of 
phenomenal size. The grand bell, 
also on the r., was saved from 
the fire, and only suspended 
again in 1892. On the 1. are the 
priests' apartments (Hqjo) and 
temple offices (Jimusho). In front 
is the main temple of Zojoji, re- 
stored outwardly in the plainest 
style, but spacious within. The 
large gilt image of Amida enthroned 
on the altar is from the chisel of 
the famous Buddhist abbot and 
artist Eshin. The temple possesses 
many objects of artistic and his- 
torical interest, but they are only 
occasionally displayed. 

The little temple at the back of 
Zojoji, in the same brilliant style 
of decoration as the Mortuary 
Temple, is called Gokoku-den. It 



contains the Kuro-Honzon, or Black 
Image, — a statuette of Amida by 
Eshin, noteworthy on account 
of the veneration in which it 
was held by Ieyasu, who used to 
carry it about with him in his cam- 
paigns, and ascribed his victories to- 
its influence. Admittance to the 
Gokoku-den is gained through the 
priests' house to the 1. The Black 
Image, which is not shown save on 
great occasions, is enclosed in a 
handsome gold reliquary. Another 
reliquary contains small marble 
images of the Sixteen Rakan. 
Notice the curious plate-shaped 
ornaments above the pillars in front 
of the altar, with the Buddhist gods 
Shaka, Monju, and Fugen, and 
attendant animals in high relief. 
The bold paintings of hawks 
round the walls recall leyasu's 
fondness for hawking. The fine 
bronze image of Shaka outside 
dates from the year 1763. 

Such unprotected statues are called in 
Japanese by the rather irreverent name 
of Wet Saints (nure-botohe) . The thin 
sticks inscribed with Sanskrit characters 
which stand behind it, are sotoba fsee 
p. 83). 

Coming down from Gokoku-den, 
and leaving the Zojoji enclosure by 
an opening to the r., we next reach 
the Mortuary Temple (Ten-ei-in) at- 
tached to the tombs of the consorts 
of the 2nd, 6th, 11th, and 12th 
Shoguns. Admittance is by the 
priests' house to the 1. Though the 
oratory is plainer than those already 
described, the altar is by no means 
less splendid. Gilded gates, gilded 
panelling, huge gilded pillars, — 
everything sparkles with gold, while 
the shrines on the altar are the 
most magnificent specimens extant 
of a peculiar kind of lacquer adorn- 
ed with metal-work. Their order 
is, from r. to 1., the consorts of the 
12th, 6th, 2nd, and 11th Shoguns, 
while in the extreme 1. corner is 
that of the concubine of the 5th. 
The coffered ceiling, decorated with 
the phoenix in various colours, is 
specially admired. 



Shiba Temples. 



97 



From this temple, we pass into 
the court of that attached to the 
tomb of the 2nd Shogun, — entrance 
through the priests' house to the 
r. The sanctum is a grand ex- 
ample of Japanese religious ar- 
chitecture. Two huge gilded pillars 
called daijin-bashira, r. and 1. of 
the altar, support the lofty vaulted 
roof, curiously constructed of a net- 
work of beams. The upper part of 
the walls is decorated with large 
carved medallions of birds in high 
relief, richly painted and gilt. The 
shrine is of fine gold lacquer, over 
two and a half centuries old, and the 
tables in front deserve inspection. 
The bronze incense-burner in the 
form of a lion dates from 1635. 
Ieyasu's war-drum rests on a large 
ornamental stand. The coffers in 
the ceilings are filled with fretwork 
over lacquer. 

A short and pretty walk through 
the wood at the back leads to the 
Hakkaku-do, or Octagonal Hall, 
containing the tomb of the 2nd 
Shogun, which is the largest speci- 
men of gold lacquer in the w T orld 
and one of the most magnificent. 
Parts of it are inlaid with enamel 
and crystals. The scenes on the 
upper half represent the "Eight 
Views" of Siao-Siang in China and 
of Lake Biwa in Japan, while the 
lower half is adorned with the lion 
and peony, the king of beasts and 
the king of flowers. The base is of 
stone shaped like a lotus-flower. 
The shrine contains only an effigy 
of the Shogun and his funeral 
tablet, the actual body being be- 
neath the pavement. The interior 
walls of the hall are of lacquer gild- 
ed over. Eight pillars covered with 
gilt copper plates support the roof. 

Outside this building are two 
curiously carved stones dating from 
1644. The subject of one is " Shaka's 
Entry into Nirvana," and of the other 
the " Five-and-Twenty Bosatsu " 
coming with Amida to welcome the 
departed soul. The oratory in front 
of the Octagonal Hall contains no- 
thing worthy of notice. 



Descending again to the Mortuary 
Temple, and passing through its 
two gates, the visitor turns sharp 
to the r. through a third gate, and 
follows a stone walk lined with 
cherry-trees to a torii, standing in 
front of the temple of Ankoku-den. 
Here, on the 17th of every month, 
a popular festival is held in honour 
of Ieyasu, who is worshipped as a 
Shinto deity under the name of 
Tdshogu. Constructed when Bud- 
dhism was dominant, this temple 
is architecturally as highly orna- 
mented as the rest, the present in- 
fluence of the Shinto cult being 
indicated only by the paper symbols 
(gohei) in the oratory, which also 
contains a large bronze mirror and 
two gilt ama-inu. The sanctum 
(admittance through the shamusho, 
or temple office, to the r.) stands 
behind, in a separate enclosure. 
The coffered ceiling is very fine, as 
are the hawks and birds of paradise 
on a gold ground in the panels 
round the interior. Particularly ex- 
cellent is a painting by Kano Hogen 
at the back of the altar, represent- 
ing Shaka attended by Monju and 
Fugen. The shrine is about 4 ft. 
high, with an elaborate cornice of 
three rows of brackets ; and its 
walls are of splendid gold lacquer 
with raised designs. In front, on 
the door-panels, are eight small 
landscapes, with dragons de- 
scending through the clouds on 
either hand. At the sides are 
boldly designed groups of the pine 
and bamboo. Inside is a life-like 
wooden effigy of Ieyasu, which can 
be seen only on the 17th day of the 
month. 

The big wooden building in 
European style, nearly opposite the 
entrance to Ankoku-den, is called 
Yayoi-sha, and is used for holding 
meetings of various kinds. 

A visit to Shiba may be termi- 
nated by walking up Maruyama, 
the little hill at the back, which 
commands a pretty view of the 
bay. Close to the pagoda, which 
is not open to the public, stands a 



98 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



monument erected in 1890 to the 
memory of Ino Chukei, the father 
of Japanese cartography, who flour- 
ished in the 18th century. 

The mound on which, this monument 
stands has recently heen discovered by 
Prof. Tsuboi to be an artificial tumulus 
(tmlca) of the gourd-shape used for Im- 
perial interments over a thousand years 
ago; and there are two smaller tumuli 
close Ivy. The larger was probably the 
burial-place of a Priuce, as a branch of 
the reigning family settled in Eastern 
Japan in very early times. 

Thence one descends to the little 
Temple of Benten, picturesquely 
situated on an islet in a lake over- 
grown with lotuses. Further back 
in the wood stands the Koyo-kwan, 
or Maple Club, where excellent 
dinners and beautiful dances in 
native style are given. 

Shiba is particularly lovely in 
early April, when the cherry-trees 
are in blossom. 

About 1 in. from the Shiba tem- 
ples, in the direction of Shinagawa, 
stands the Buddhist temple of 
Sengakuji, where the Forty-seven 
Ron Ins ( Shi-ju-shichi Shi) lie 
buried. 

For their dramatic story, see Things 
Japanese, p. 126. A more detailed ac- 
count is given in Mitford's Tales of Old 
Japan. 

Just within the gate is a two- 
storied building called Kanranjo, 
where swords, armour, and other 
relics of these heroes are shown 
on payment of a small fee. The 
well (Kubi-arai ido), where the 
Ronins washed the head of the 
foe on whom they had taken ven- 
geance, still exists by the side of 
the path leading to the tombs, 
which are ranged round the sides of 
a small square court. That in the 
further corner is the grave of Oishi 
Kuranosuke, the leader of the 
faithful band ; and the monument 
next to his, on the other side of the 
stone fence, marks the grave of the 
lord for whose sake he and his 
comrades sacrificed their lives. The 
popular reverence for these heroes 
is attested by the incense perpetual- 



ly kept burning before Oishi's grave, 
and by the visiting cards constantly 
left there. Painted statuettes of the 
Ronins are exhibited in a building 
below. 

A little nearer Shinagawa stands 
Nyoraiji, a Buddhist temple dedi- 
cated to the Five Buddhas of 
Wisdom, whose gigantic images, 
carved in A.D. 1635, are here en- 
shrined. 

On the way back, one may obtain 
a good view of the town by going 
up Atago-yama, a small hill a little 
to the N. of Shiba Park, named 
after the higher Mount Atago at 
Kyoto, 

Atago is properly the name of a divinity; 
and the wide-spread use of it— for there 
are Atago-yamas all over Japan — is at- 
tribut.'.ble to the fact that the god in 
question specially protects towns against 
fire. He is an avatar of the creatress 
Izanami and of her last-born child Ho- 
musubi (also called Kagutsuchi), the God 
of Fire, whose birth caused her death. 
The connection between Atago and fire is 
thus made clear. 

Atago-yama, like many other 
such places in Japan, has two 
flights of steps leading up it, one of 
which, called " the men's staircase, " 
is straight and steep, while the 
other, or " women's staircase," is 
circuitous but less fatiguing. A 
tower has been erected on Atago- 
yama, which visitors pay a trifling 
fee to ascend. The view includes 
Fuji, the Hakone range, Oyama, 
Mitake, Mount Tsukuba, and the 
provinces beyond Tokyo Bay with 
Kano-zan and Nokogiri-yama. 

2. — Akasaka and Azabu. 

Akasaka and Azaftn are the 

highest and healthiest parts of 
Tokyo, but contain very little to 
interest the tourist. In a part of 
Akasaka called Aoyama, is situated 
the palace occupied for many years 
by the Mikado while the present 
palace was building, and now by 
the Empress Dowager and the 
Grown Prince. It is not open to 
the public; but the elite of Tokyo 
society is invited there once yearly 



Akasaka. Azabn. Kojimachi. 



99 



to a garden party in November, given 
on the occasion of what is perhaps 
the most wonderful chrysanthe- 
mum show in the world. Closely 
adjoining it, is an immense Parade 
Ground (Rempei-ba), where the 
great annual review on the Mi- 
kado's birthday (3rd November) is 
held. A little further to the S. is 
the Aoyama Cemetery, part of 
which has been set apart for the 
interment of foreigners. 

Zempukuji, a temple of the Monto 
sect, dates from A.D. 1232, and is 
somewhat striking. The main hall 
of the temple is 96 ft. square. The 
pillars supporting the roof are 
massive and unadorned, save by a 
few touches of white paint on the 
capitals, in accordance with the 
usual practice of the sect. The 
screen dividing the nave from the 
chancel, as also the altar itself, are 
good specimens of florid ornamenta- 
tion in gold and colours. The 
temple relics are exhibited from the 
1st to 6th November. In the court- 
yard stands an enormous Icho tree, 
known as the " Staff Icho." 

Local tradition says that when Shinran 
•Shonin, the founder of the Monto sect, 
was about to depart for Kyoto, and bade 
adieu to Roltai, the apostle of the sect 
in Eastern Japan, he stuck his staff 
upside down in the ground, saying, 
** Like this staff shall be the strength of 
the faith and the salvation of the people," — 
whereupon the staff immediately began 
to take root and sprout upwards. 

To the W. of Azabu, in the suburb 
of Shibuya, stands the Bed Cross 
Hospital (Seki-juji-sha By din), ■ a 
large and admirably organised in- 
stitution. 

3. — Chief Buildings in Koji- 
machi. The Diet. Sanno. 
Okubo's Monument. Shokon- 

SHA. 

Leaving Shimbashi station and 
turning 1. along the moat, the 
wooden buildings of the Imperial 
Diet will be seen beyond the em- 
bankment on the other side. The 
fine brick buildings soon passed r. 
were completed in 1877 for the 



College of Engineering, the earliest 
scientific academy established in 
Japan, and presided over by British 
professors. Since the amalgama- 
tion of this College with the Imperial 
University in 1886, the buildings 
have been used for various other 
purposes. 

Turning along the moat r., we 
come to a stretch of flat ground, 
which was till recently a swamp 
called Tame-ike. On the hill to the 
r. is the new mansion of Marquis 
Nabeshima, formerly Daimyo of 
Hizen and now Grand Master of 
Ceremonies at the Imperial Court. 
In front is the prettily wooded emi- 
nence on which stands the Shinto 
Temple of Sanno, officially styled 
Hie Jinja. Dating in its present 
form from 1654, it was adopted by 
the Shoguns of the Tokugawa 
dynasty as their tutelary shrine. 
The situation is pretty, but all the 
buildings except the main temple 
are falling into decay. In each 
of the inner compartments of the 
large gate stands an image of 
a monkey ornamented with a bib, 
that animal being regarded as the 
servant of the divinity of Hie, for 
which reason monkeys also figure 
on the altar. 

This neighbourhood, of which 
the chief part is called Nagata-cho, 
is one of the most fashionable in 
Tokyo. Here stand the palaces of 
Princes Kita-Shirakawa and Arisu- 
gawa, and the residences of many 
high officials and foreign diplomats. 
Hence, in local parlance, it is some- 
times nicknamed Daimyo Koji, or 
the Daimyo Quarter. Below 
Prince Kita-Shirakawa's Palace is 
the Kioi-cho Koenchi, a small public 
garden containing a huge monolith 
commemorative of Okubo Toshi- 
michi, one of the founders of the 
new order of things in Japan, who 
was assassinated near this spot on 
the 14th May, 1878, as he was 
driving from his residence to the 
Imperial Palace. On the flat top of 
the Kudan hill, a short way beyond 
the British Legation, stands the 



100 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



modern Shinto temple of Yasukuni, 
better known as the 

Shokonsha, or Spirit-Invoking 
Shrine. 

This temple was erected in 1869 for the 
worship of the spirits of those who had 
fallen fighting for the Mikado's cause in 
the revolutionary war of the previous 
year. Services are also held in honour of 
those who fell in the Saga troubles of 1873, 
and in the Satsuma rebellion of 1877. 

The Shokonsha is built in accor- 
dance with the severest canons of 
pure Shinto architecture, and is 
completely empty except for a 
mirror, a European drugget, and a 
dozen cheap wooden chairs for the 
use of the officials who come to 
assist at the memorial services 
which are held from time to time, 
the principal ones being on the 6-8th 
May and 6-8th November. These 
occasions are enlivened by horse- 
races, wrestling, and other popular 
amusements. The enormous bronze 
torii was manufactured in the Osaka 
arsenal, and set up in December, 
1887. 

The grounds behind the temple 
have been tastefully laid out, and 
look their best in early spring when 
the plum-trees are in blossom. 

The brick building to the r. of 
the temple is the Yushu-kzvan, a 
Museum of Arms, which is open 
on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Sa- 
turdays, from 8 a.m. till 5 p.m. in 
summer, and from 9 to 3 in winter. 
It is well worth a visit, for the sake 
of the magnificent specimens of old 
Japanese swords and scabbards 
which it contains, as well as ar- 
mour, old Korean bronze cannon, 
etc. The granite lanterns lining 
the avenue which runs down the 
centre of the race-course, were pre- 
sented by the nobility in 1878. The 
large bronze statue of Omura Hyo- 
bu Taiyu, a distinguished patriot 
in the war that restored the 
Mikado to power, was erected in 
1892, and is remarkable as being 
the first Japanese example of this 
method of commemorating departed 
worth. 

Leaving the grounds of the Sho- 



konsha, we come to an ancient 
stone beacon, which formerly light- 
ed junks on their way up Tokyo 
Bay. Opposite to it, stands a 
monument in the shape of a bayo- 
net, erected in 1880 by the soldiers 
of the Imperial Guard, in memory 
of their comrades who had fallen 
fighting on the loyalist side in the 
Satsuma rebellion. This point over- 
looks the city in the direction of 
Ueno. The prominent edifice on 
the bluff opposite (Suruga-dai) is 
the Russian Cathedral, consecrated 
in 1891. 

4. — Kojimachi ( Continued ). In- 
ner Moat. The Imperial, 
Palace. Insatsu Kyoku. 

Another and more direct way 
from Shimbashi to the Shokonsha 
at Kudan, is by crossing the first 
bridge (Do-bashi) over the moat, 
passing the Rohumei-kwan, a large 
edifice used for social purposes, on 
the r., and going straight on as far 
as the site of the Houses of the 
Diet, at the further end of the 
former Hibiya parade ground, now 
being covered with extensive public 
buildings. Here the road turns r.> 
with the Russian Legation, the 
Foreign Office (Gioaimushb) , and 
military barracks on the 1. Skirting 
the moat, the large building seen 
in front is the Head-Quarters of the 
General Staff Department. 

Near here, on the 24th March I860, Ii- 
Kamon-no-Kami, Regent during' the in- 
terval preceding the election of a new 
Shogun, and a man of rare sagacity and 
favourable to foreign intercourse, was 
assassinated in broad daylight by emis- 
saries of the Prince of Mito, who was 
desirous of seating his own son on the 
throne. To elucidate this incident, it 
should be mentioned that there were three 
branches of the Tokugawa family, viz. 
Kishu, Mito, and Owari, from whom the 
Shoguns were elected by a family council, 
and that the election had fallen upon a 
young prince of Kishu, thus baulking 
Mito's plans. 

The moat here, with its green 
banks and spreading trees, and in 
winter the myriads of wild-fowl flut- 
tering in the water, is one of the 



Imperial Palace. 



101 



prettiest bits of Tokyo. The vast 
enclosure of the Imperial Palace 
lies beyond this moat. 
T3ie Imperial Palace. The new 

Palace, inhabited by His Majesty 
the Mikado since 1889, is not acces- 
sible to the public, only those who 
are honoured by an Imperial Audi- 
ence being admitted within its 
walls. Nevertheless the following 
description, abridged from the Japan 
Mail, maybe of interest : — Entering 
through long corridors isolated by 
massive iron doors, we find ourselves 
in the smaller of two reception 
rooms, and at the commencement 
of what seems an endless vista of 
crystal chambers. This effect is 
due to the fact that the shqji, or 
sliding-doors, are of plate-glass. 
The workmanship and decoration 
of these chambers are truly exqui- 
site. It need scarcely be said that 
the woods employed are of the 
choicest description, and that the 
carpenters and joiners have done 
their part with such skill as only 
Japanese artisans seem to possess. 
Every ceiling is a work of art, 
being divided by lacquer ribs of a 
deep brown colour into numerous 
panels, each of which contains a 
beautifully executed decorative de- 
sign, painted, embroidered, or em- 
bossed. The walls are covered in 
most cases with rich but chaste 
brocades, except in the corridors, 
where a thick, embossed paper of 
charming tint and pattern shows 
what skill has been developed in 
this class of manufacture at the 
Imperial Printing Bureau. Amid 
this luxury of well-assorted but 
warm tints, remain the massive 
square posts — beautiful enough in 
themselves, but scarcely harmo- 
nising with their environment, and 
introducing an incongruous element 
into the building. The true type 
of what may be called Imperial 
esthetic decoration was essentially 
marked by refined simplicity — 
white wooden joinery, with pale 
neutral tints and mellow gilding. 
'The splendour of richly painted 



ceilings, lacquered lattice-work, and 
brocaded walls was reserved for 
Buddhist temples and mausolea. 
Thus we have the Shinto, or true 
Imperial style, presenting itself in 
the severely colourless pillars, while 
the resources of religious architec- 
ture have been drawn upon for the 
rest of the decoration. In one part 
of the building the severest canons 
have been strictly followed : the six 
Imperial Studios, three below stairs 
and three above, are precisely such 
chaste and pure apartments as a 
scholar would choose for the abode 
of learning. By way of an example 
in the other direction, we may take 
the Banqueting Hall, a room of 
magnificent size (540 sq. yds.) and 
noble proportions, its immense ex- 
panse of ceiling glowing with gold 
and colours, and its broad walls 
hung with the costliest silks. The 
Throne Chamber is scarcely less 
striking, though of smaller dimen- 
sions and more subdued decoration. 
Every detail of the work shows in- 
finite painstaking, and is redolent 
of artistic instinct. A magnificent 
piece of tapestry hangs in one of the 
salons. It is 40 ft. by 13 ft., woven 
in one piece by Messrs. Kawashima 
of Kyoto. The weaving is of the 
kind known as tsuzure-ori, so called 
because each part of the design is 
separated from the body of the stuff 
by a border of pin-points, so that 
the whole pattern seems suspended 
in the material. The subject re- 
presented is an Imperial procession 
in feudal Japan, and the designer 
has succeeded in grouping an im- 
mense number of figures with ad- 
mirable taste and skill. The colours 
are rich and harmonious, and the 
whole forms probably one of the 
finest pieces of tapestry in existence. 
The furniture of the Palace was 
imported from Germany. Exter- 
nally the principal buildings are all 
in pure Japanese style. The ap- 
propriation for the Palace was 
13,000,000 ; but to this amount 
must be added considerable sums 
voluntarily offered by wealthy Japa- 



102 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



nese, as well as valuable contribu- 
tions of materials. 

The unpretentious brick and 
plaster structure to be seen from 
the E. side, rising above the rnoat 
in the Palace enclosure, contains 
the offices of the Imperial House- 
hold Department (Kunaisho). 

Not far from the Palace, in an 
E. direction, is the Insatsil Kyoku 
or Government Printing Office, a 
vast and well-organised establish- 
ment, to the inspection of which a 
day may be profitably devoted, as 
its scope is very wide, includ- 
ing much besides mere printing. 
Here, among other things, is manu- 
factured the paper currency of the 
country. The Ministries of Finance, 
of Education, and of the Interior, 
together with various other Govern- 
ment Offices, are in the same 
neighbourhood. 

5. — GlNZA. SUITENGU. NlHON- 

bashi. Cueio Street. Seido. 
Kanda Myojin. Imperial Uni- 
versity. Dango-zaka. O-gwan- 
non. Botanical Garden. Koi- 
shikawa. Arsenal and Garden. 
Gokoku-ji. Imperial Cemetery. 

The most important thorough- 
fare in Tokyo, which none should 
fail to see, leads from the Shimbashi 
terminus to Megane-bashi. The 
portion of it nearest to the station 
is called the Grinza, and has many 
shops in European style. Proceed- 
ing along it, the traveller crosses 
the Kyobashi and Nihon-bashi 
bridges, from the latter of which all 
distances in Eastern Japan are 
calculated. The new General Post- 
Office stands close by. Parallel to 
the portion of the main street be- 
tween these bridges is Naka-dori, a 
street highly attractive on account 
of its second-hand curio shops, and 
hence commonly known as Curio 
Street among the foreign residents. 
Nihon-bashi has also given its name 
to the surrounding large and busy 
district, which is filled with shops, 
market-places, and godowns. The 



great fish-market is a notable sight 
in the early hours of the morn- 
ing. 

Another sight (chiefly on the 5th 
day of the month) is afforded by the 
concourse of worshippers at the 
Suite ngii Temple. 

The deity here worshipped is a com- 
pound evolved by the popular conscious- 
ness from Varuna, the Buddhist Neptune, 
the Shinto sea-gods of Sumiyoshi near 
Osaka, and the boy-emperor, Antoku, 
who found a watery grave at Dannoura. 

Megane-Bashi, or Spectacles 
Bridge, is so called from its circu- 
lar arches. The portion of the 
canal to the 1. is popularly known 
as " Sendai's Weeping Excavation "" 
(Naki-bori). 

Local history says that Tsunamune, 
Daimyo of Sendai, was in the habit of 
squandering large sums at the Yoshi- 
wara, and that "the Shogun, in order to 
turn him from his rakish ways, and also 
to put such extravagance out of his 
power, imposed on him the task of deep- 
ening and widening this part of the moat 
— a work which he is said to have per- 
formed with much lamentation over the 
drain on his purse. 

A little way on is the former 
Seido, the Sage's Hall, or Temple of 
Confucius, now used as an Educa- 
tional Museum. It is pleasantly 
situated on rising ground in the 
midst of a grove of trees, among which 
the fragrant mokusei is most conspic- 
uous. The buildings, which date 
from 1691, are fine specimens of the 
Chinese style of architecture. The 
main hall facing the entrance is 
supported on black lacquered pillars, 
the celling also is of black lacquer, 
while the floor is of finely chiselled 
square blocks of stone. Opposite 
the door is a wooden image of 
Confucius, possessing considerable 
merit as a work of art. The 
Museum, which contains specimens 
of school and kindergarten furni- 
ture, books, maps, etc., is open daily 
to visitors. 

Just above, in the same grounds, 
stand the two sections of the Nor- 
mal School (Shihan Gakkd), that 
in brick being for young men, the 
other for girls. 



Kanda Myojin. University. Koishikaiva, 



103 



Behind the Seido, is the Kyobu 
Shinto temple of Kanda Myojin, 

dedicated to the god Onamuji and 
to Masakado, a celebrated rebel of 
the 10th century. 

After the final overthrow of Masakado, 
"his ghost used to haunt the neighbour- 
hood. In order to lay this spectre, apo- 
theosis was resorted to in the 13th cen- 
tury. The temple, for which a hoary 
antiquity is claimed, but which was only 
established in its present site in 161G, has 
been frequently burnt down and rebuilt 
since that time. 

The temple, originally decorated 
with paintings by artists of the 
Kano school, has now grown some- 
what dingy, but is still popular with 
the multitude. The chief festival, 
celebrated on the 15th September, 
is well worth seeing. 

Entering the main street of the 
district of Kanda, one of the chief 
arteries of the Northern portion of 
the metropolis, we come r. to the 
Imperial University (Teikoku Dai- 
gaku), a set of handsome brick 
buildings standing in the extensive 
grounds of the former Kaga Yashiki, 
or mansion of the great Daimyo of 
Kaga. 

The germ of this institution was the 
BansJio Shirabe-jo, or " Place for the Ex- 
amination of Barbarian Writings," found- 
ed by the Tokugawa Government in 1856. 
Seven years later, this name was altered 
to that of Kaisei-jo, or "Place for Develop- 
ing and Completing," which indicated a 
change for the better in the views held 
by the Japanese as to the value of Euro- 
pean learning. Numerous other modifica- 
tions have taken place both in the name and 
scope of the institution, which since 1881 
has been placed on a thoroughly modern 
footing, and now includes Colleges of 
Law, Medicine, Engineering, Literature, 
Science, and Agriculture, where lectures 
are delivered by a large staff of professors 
of various nationalities and in various 
languages. The students number over 
1,300. The courses that attract most 
students are those of Law and Medicine. 
A large hospital connected with the Uni- 
versity stands in the same grounds. 
Other institutions under the authority of 
the President of the University are the 
Botanical Gardens in the district of Koi- 
shikawa, and the Tokyo Observatory at 
Iigura. 

__ Further on, in the direction of 
Oji, are the florists' gardens of 
Dango-zaka, whither the towns- 



folk flock in thousands to see the 
chrysanthemum shows in Novem- 
ber. The flowers are trained over 
trellis-work to represent historical 
and mythological scenes, ships, 
dragons, and other curious objects. 

The O-CxWiifinon, or Great 
Kwannon, may be worth a pass- 
ing visit. The gilt image, which is 
16 ft. high, was an offering made in 
the 17th century by a merchant of 
Yedo, and represents the goddess 
bending slightly forward, and hold- 
ing in her hand the lotus, the em- 
blem of purity. Bound the walls 
of the shrine containing the image, 
are ranged in tiers the Sen-tai 
Kwannon, or images of the Thou- 
sand Incarnations of Kwannon. 

The Koishikawa Botanical Gar- 
den (Slioku-butsu-cn) is open to the 
public, and duplicate specimens of 
the plants are for sale a.t the office. 

The small temple of Muryo-in, in 
the same district, is connected with 
the history of the early Catholic 
missionaries to Japan, some of 
whom lie buried in the cemetery. 
Hence the name oiKirishitan-zaka, 
or Christian Hill, by which the 
locality is popularly known. The 
grave of the earliest of these mis- 
sionaries, Father Giuseppe Chiara, 
who died in 1685, may be dis- 
tinguished by a priest's hat carved 
in the stone. 

Readers desirous of further details are 
referred to the writings of Mr. Ernest 
Satow and Professor j/M. Dixon, in Vol. 
VI, Part I, and Vol. XVI, Part III. of the 
Transactions of the Asiatic Society of 
Japan. 

The Koishikawa Arsenal (Hohei 
Kbsho) occupies the site of the 
former mansion of the Prince of 
Mito. Here are manufactured the 
celebrated Murata rifles. An order 
from the military authorities is 
necessary to gain admittance. An 
order is also necessary for the 
Garden (Koraku-en), which still re- 
mains intact, and is the finest 
specimen of the Japanese land- 
scape gardener's art to be seen 
in the capital. The object of its 



104 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



designer was to reproduce in minia- 
ture many of the scenes whose 
names are classic among the lite- 
rati of Japan. Prince Mitsukuni, 
generally known as Mito Komon, 
laid out the grounds as a place in 
which to enjoy a calm old age after 
a life of labour. If the visitor has 
first inspected the Arsenal, he will 
then be conducted to a summer- 
house in the Garden, with an 
extensive grass-plot attached, and 
overlooking a lake copied from a 
noted one in China, called Sei-ko. A 
small wooded hill rises beyond, 
which we ascend, and on which 
stands a miniature replica of the 
famous temple of Kiyomizu at 
Kyoto, enriched with carvings, but 
worn by time. Descending, we are 
plunged for a minute in the 
depths of a wood before reaching an 
old bridge with a rivulet running far 
below. Crossing the bridge and 
following up a zigzag path, we come 
to the shrine of Haku-i and Shiku- 
sei, the loyal brothers of Chinese 
lore, who, after the overthrow of 
their lord and master, refused to eat 
the corn produced under the con- 
queror's sway, and, secluding them- 
selves on Mount Shuyo, lived on 
ferns till, being told that ferns grew 
also on their enemy's lands, they 
abstained even from that poor food, 
and so died of starvation. An 
arched stone bridge and another 
shrine, shaped octagonally in allu- 
sion to the Eight Diagrams of the 
Chinese system of divination, are 
next passed. From here, a tunnel- 
like opening leads through a thicket 
of creepers and other trees to a lake 
several acres in extent and full of 
lotus-flowers. The water, which 
comes from the Tamagawa aque- 
duct, is made to form a pretty cas- 
cade before falling into the lake. 
An island in the centre is connected 
with the mainland by a bridge. 
Everywhere there are magnificent 
trees— cherry-trees for the spring, 
maples for the autumn, plum-trees 
for the winter, making a change of 
scene at each season. Near the 



exit, is a hill with a path paved in 
such manner as to imitate the road 
over the Hakone Pass. 

On the extreme N. W. outskirt of 
the city stands the Buddhist temple 
of Gokokujiy now used as the head- 
quarters of the Shingon sect, which 
has a seminary there for young 
priests. With its extensive grounds, 
its silent belfry, and the perfect 
stillness of its surroundings, it 
recalls the memory of days now 
irretrievably past, when Buddhism 
was a mighty power in the land. 
The azaleas here are noted for their 
beauty. The chief treasure of the 
temple is a gigantic kakemono of 
Buddha's Entry into Nirvana, by 
Kano Yasunobu, which is shown 
only during the month of April. 

Adjoining Gokokuji is the new 
Cemetery of the Imperial family, 
selected since the removal of the 
Court to Tokyo. It is not open to 
the public. 

6. — Ueno Park, Temples, and 
Museum. Asakusa. Higashi 
Hongwanji. Temple op Kwan- 
non. Mukojima. Horikiri. 
XJeiiO Park, famed for its Temples 
and Tombs of the Shoguns, is the 
most popular resort in the metro- 
polis, and has been the site of three 
National Industrial Exhibitions. 
Here, in April, all Tokyo assembles 
to admire the wonderful mass of 
cherry-blossom for which it is 
famous. No traveller should miss 
this opportunity of witnessing a 
scene charming alike for natural 
beauty and picturesque Eastern 
life. 

The importance of Ueno, which lies due 
N. E. of the Palace, had its origin in a 
wide-spread superstition, which regards 
that q tiarter as the most unlucky of all 
the points of the compass, and brands it 
with the name of Ki-mon, or the Demons* 
Gate. When, therefore, some progress 
had been made in the construction of the 
city of Yedo, the Shogun Iemitsu, in the 
year 1625, determined to erect here a set 
of Buddhist temples, which, eclipsing all 
others in splendour, should ward off 
the approach of such evil influences. 
The original main temple then founded 



Ueno Park and Temples. 



105 



occupied the site of the present Museum, 
and was burnt down in 1868 on the 
occasion of a bloody battle fought between 
the partisans of the Mikado and those of 
the Shogun. The outer gate still exists, 
showing the marks of bullets. This 
temple was counted among the triumphs 
of Japanese architecture. Here always 
resided as high-priest a son of the reign- 
ing Mikado, retained in gilded slavery 
for political reasons, as it was convenient 
for the Shoguns to have in their power 
a prince who could at once be decorated 
with the Imperial title, should the Court 
of Kyoto at any time prove unfavourable 
to their policy. The last high-priest of 
Ueno was actually utilised in this man- 
ner by the shogun' s partisans, and car- 
ried off by them to Aizu when they raised 
the standard of rebellion. On their defeat, 
he was pardoned by the present legiti- 
mate sovereign, was sent to Germany to 
study, and is now known by the title of 
Prince Kita-Shirakawa. 

Leaving his jinrikisha at the 
bottom of the hill, the traveller 
ascends r. a short flight of steps, 
leading to a plateau planted with 
cherry-trees and commanding a 
good view of the city, especially 
towards Asakusa, including the 
twelve-storied tower which is seen 
rising beyond the Ueno railway 
station, and the high roof of the 
great Hongwanji temple. The stone 
monument on this plateau is de- 
dicated to the soldiers who fell 
fighting for the Shogun's cause in 
the battle of Ueno. Close by to the 
1., is a dingy Buddhist temple dedi- 
cated to the Thousand-Handed 
Kwannon. 

Descending again to the main 
road, we reach the celebrated avenue 
of cherry-trees, a uniquely beauti- 
ful sight during the season of blos- 
som. The air seems to be rilled with 
pink clouds. To the 1., is a shallow 
piece of water, called Shinobazu 
no Ike and celebrated for its lotus- 
flowers in August. On a little 
peninsula jutting out into the lake, 
is a shrine dedicated to the goddess 
Benten. This formerly romantic 
spot has of late years fallen a victim 
to vandalism, the shores of the lake 
having been turned into a race- 
course. A little further up, is a 
branch of the *Seiydhen Hotel, 



which commands a good view of the 
lake. The extensive buildings seen 
in the distance, on a height, are the 
Imperial University and the First 
Higher Middle School. Close to the 
hotel is a bronze image of Buddha, 
21 J ft. high, known as the Daibutsu. 
This inferior specimen of the bronze 
sculptor's art dates from about the 
year 1660. Following along the 
main road for a few yards, we come 
1. to a bullet-riddled gate, preserved 
as a relic of the battle of Ueno. An 
immense stone lantern just inside 
the gate is one of the three largest 
in Japan, and dates from early in 
the 17th century. Beyond it again, 
has stood since 1890 a switch-back 
railway, whose vulgar clatter strikes 
a strangely discordant note in the 
harmony produced by the stately 
cryptomerias, the ancient pagoda, 
and the glorious gold gate at the 
end of the long avenue of stone 
lanterns, presented in 1651 by 
various Daimyos as a tribute to the 
memory of the Shogun Ieyasu. To 
this Shogun, under his posthumous 
name of Toshogu or Gongen Sama, 
the shrine within the gate is dedi- 
cated. The gate itself, restored in 
1890, is a dream of beauty. Carv- 
ings of dragons adorn it on either 
side. Above are geometrical figures, 
birds, foliage, and everywhere the 
Tokugawa crest of three Asarum 
leaves. It is intended to restore in 
the same style the temple whose 
gold has been worn away in many 
places. The details resemble those 
of the Mortuary Shrines at Shiba. 
The temple contains some fine speci- 
mens of lacquer. Round the walls 
hang pictures of the San-ju-rok-Jca- 
sen, below which are screens with 
conventional lions. 

The San-ju-roJc-Jca-sen, or Thirty-six 
Poetical Geniuses, flourished during the 
8th, 9th, and 10th centuries. The grouping 
of their names in a galaxy is attributed to 
a court noble of the 11th century, named 
Kinto Dainagon. Their portraits were 
first painted by Fujiwara-no-Nobuzane 
about AD. 1200. A complete list of their 
names will be found in Dr. Wm. Ander- 
son's interesting Catalogue of Japanese and 
Chinese Paintings. 



106 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



Returning to the main road 
the way we came, and passing 
by the former buildings of the last 
National Industrial Exhibition, we 
reach the 

Ueno Museum ( Hakubutsu- 
kwaii). This institution, which is 
open from 8 to 5 in summer, and 
from 9 to 4 in winter, Mondays and 
the three weeks from the 16th De- 
cember to the 4th January excepted, 
is well worth a visit. The contents 
are arranged as follows : — 

Ground Floor. R. of Entrance. 
Natural History Department : — ob- 
serve the cocks from Tosa, with tail 
feathers 12 \ ft. long. The front 
rooms contain the Zoological Sec- 
tion ; the back rooms, the Mineral- 
ogical Section. A wing lying beyond 
the room chiefly devoted to osteo- 
logical specimens, is the Department 
of Industry, containing glass and 
porcelain (both foreign and Japa- 
nese), chemical, ship-building, engi- 
neering, architectural, and other 
specimens. 

An annexe at the back of the 
main building contains the surplus 
of the Mineralogical Section. Be- 
hind it a pretty landscape garden 
in Japanese style has been laid out. 

Ground Floor. L. of Entrance. 
Front rooms. Historical or Archse- 
logical Department, including 

Room I. 
Ancient manuscripts and printed 
books, old maps, paintings, and 
rubbings. 

Room II. 

Stone arrow-heads, spear-heads, 
and pottery of the prehistoric period; 
proto-historic copper bells and mir- 
rors, iron swords, armour, horse- 
trappings, shoes, and cooking uten- 
sils. The most characteristically 
Japanese specimens are the maga- 
tama and kuda-tama in jasper, 
agate, etc., 

The maga-tama, or "curved jewels," 
which somewhat resemble a tadpole in 
shape, were anciently (say, prior to 
the 7th century) strung together and used 
as necklaces and ornaments for the waist 



both by men and women, as were also 
the kuda-tama or " tube-shaped jewels." 
Their use survived in the Loochoo Is- 
lands till a much more recent date. 

Besides the above, notice also the 
pottery anciently used for the pre- 
sentation of offerings to the Shinto 
gods. Some pieces from the pro- 
vinces on the N.E. shore of the In- 
land Sea are remarkably ornamented 
with human figures in high relief. 
Particularly curious are the earthen- 
ware images of men and horses used 
in proto-historic times for interment 
in the graves of illustrious person- 
ages, after the custom of burying their 
chief retainers alive with them had 
been discontinued, the figures of birds 
— apparently geese — which were 
used as a fence round the tumulus 
of the Emperor Ojin in the pro- 
vince of Kawachi, and fragments of 
earthenware posts put to a similar 
purpose. 

Room III. (End Room). 

Objects illustrating the manners 
and customs of the Ainos, Koreans, 
Loochooans, Chinese, Formosan 
and Australasian aborigines, the 
natives of India, and the American 
Indians. 

The back rooms on this side 
contain palanquins of the Tokugawa 
period, old paintings, statues by the 
students of the Tokyo Art School, 
and copies of very ancient Buddhist 
frescoes preserved at the temple of 
Horyuji in Yamato. 

Upper Floor. Landing : — Ancient 
Imperial State bullock cart and 
palanquins, model of the Tenchi 
Maru, or Ship of Heaven and 
Earth, which was the state barge 
used by the Shoguns. 

Central Boom, adjoining the 
landing : — Imperial robes, and other 
articles used by the Emperor under 
the old regime, including the throne 
hung with silk hangings, which 
served to shroud Majesty from the 
gaze of ordinary mortals, who, so it 
was believed, would be struck blind 
if they looked upon the " Dragon 



Ueno Museum. 



107 



Face." There are also Imperial 
autographs, gold screens, etc. 

Turning to the r. (over the 
Natural History Department), we 
come to the Fine Art Department. 
Room 1 contains old Kakemonos 
and Makimonos ; Eoom 2, ancient 
masks and images, chiefly bronze ; 
Boom 3, manuscripts and illustrat- 
ed scrolls. The back rooms on this 
side comprise the Art Industry 
Department, — lacquer, porcelain, 
bronze, etc. 

Upper Stobey. L. op Entrance. 

Room I. 

Model, on a scale of ^, of the 
Shinto shrines temporarily erected 
in the Fukiage garden in Tokyo, 
for the ceremonies attending the 
accession of the present Emperor. 
These ceremonies took place in 
1871, and the buildings were at 
once burnt. 

Room II. 

Department of History. This 
room is chiefly devoted to ancient 
objects from Horyuji, such as 
temple furniture, seals, golden tok- 
ko, and specimens of the miniature 
pagodas (Hachi-man-to) of which, 
in A.D. 764, the reigning Mikado 
caused a million to be made for 
distribution to all the Buddhist 
temples throughout the land. 
There are also manuscripts, which 
rank among the earliest specimens 
of Japanese calligraphy. They are 
all in the Chinese language. The 
principal other exhibits are fac- 
similes of ancient objects of daily use 
at the Imperial Court preserved at 
the Shoso-in, a celebrated store- 
house attached to the temple of 
Todaiji at Nara, and implements 
used in the Shinto religious cult. 

Two cases in this room have a 
very special interest, as they are 
filled with Christian relics. 

Many of these date from the embassy to 
Borne of Hashikura Rokuemon, who was 
sent thither by Date Masamime, Prince of 
Sendai, in 1614, with a train of followers, 



and returned to Japan in 1620. The offi- 
cial Japanese account of this curious 
episode is that the embassy went at the 
Shogun's desire, in order to investigate 
the political strength and resources of 
Europe. The version usually accepted by 
European writers is that the expedition 
really was what it avowed itself to be, — 
an act of submission to the religious 
supremacy of the Pope. The envoy was 
well received at the Roman Court, and 
was presented with the freedom of the 
city of Rome, besides being loaded with 
presents. The relics remained in the 
possession of the Date family at Sendai 
until a few years ago. 

Among the objects in these cases, 
are an oil-painting of Hashikura 
in prayer before a crucifix, an il- 
luminated Latin document confer- 
ring on him the freedom of the city 
of Rome, holy pictures, rosaries, 
crucifixes, a small Japanese book 
of Catholic devotion in Hiragana 
characters, photographs of Date 
Maspomune's letters to the Pope in 
Japanese and Latin, a portrait of 
Hashikura in the Italian costume, 
etc. To a set of circumstances very 
different in their nature, though 
not far removed in time, belong the 
fumi-ita, or " trampling boards," — 
oblong blocks of metal with figures 
in high relief of Christ before Pilate, 
the Descent from the Cross, the 
Virgin and Child, etc., on which 
persons suspected of the crime of 
Christianity were obliged to trample 
during times of persecution, in order 
to testify their abjuration of the 
"Depraved Sect," as it was called. 
The Dutch traders at Nagasaki are 
suspected of having lent themselves 
to this infamous practice for the 
sake of monetary gain. 

The last room of this suite con- 
tains objects illustrative of Japanese 
social usages and etiquette, such as 
symbolical presents given on the 
occasion of marriages and the 
naming of children, methods of 
folding paper and tying up presents, 
the toys displayed on the Girls' 
Festival of the 3rd March, and the 
Boys' Festival of the 5th May, etc. 

The back rooms on this side con- 
tain court robes, ancient textile 
fabrics, armour and weapons, 



108 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



musical instruments, tea utensils, 
masks, and theatrical costumes. 

On quitting the Museum, an 
avenue r. leads to the Art School 
'(Bijutsu Gakko), not accessible 
without a special introduction. In 
the same grounds are a Public 
Library and Reading Room (Tosho- 
kivan), and a learned Academy 
called the Gakushi Kioai-in. Close 
by are the Zoological Gardens (Dd- 
biUsu-en). 

Before reaching the Tosho-kwan, 
an avenue turns off r. to the 

Tombs of the Shoguns {Go Rei- 
ya), abutting on the second and 
finer of the two Mortuary Temples 
(Ni no Go Reiya). The main gate 
is always kept closed, but a side en- 
trance 1. leads to the priest's house. 
The resident custodian will act as 
guide for a small fee. 

The six Shoguns buried at Ueno belong- 
ed to the Tokugrawa family, being the 4th, 
5th, 8th, 10th, 11th, and 13th of their line. 
It is still at the private expense of the 
family that these shrines are kept np. In 
general style, they closely resemble those 
at Shiba, described on pp. 94—7, and are 
among the priceless legacies of the art of 
Old Japan. Like the Shiba shrines, too, 
they have suffered at the hands of thieves 
since the Revolution of 1868. 

This glorious building, a sym- 
phony in gold and blended colours, 
has a wooden colonnade in front, 
the red walls of which are divided 
into compartments, each contain- 
ing a medallion in the centre, filled 
with painted open-work carvings 
of birds and flowers, with arabes- 
ques derived from the chrysan- 
themum above and a carved wave- 
design below. In the centre of this 
colonnade is a gate decorated with 
a painting of an angel. From here, 
an open colonnade leads up to the 
steps of the main building. The 
porch has brackets carved with 
conventional chrysanthemums. Its 
square columns are adorned with 
plum-blossoms in red and gold. 
Under the beams, are red and gold 
lions' heads as brackets. The doors 
of the oratory are carved in diapers, 



and gilded all over. Note the taste- 
fully painted diapers on the archi- 
trave. The ceiling is massive and 
loaded with metal fastenings. In 
the coffers are dragons in gold on a 
blue ground. The interior walls 
are gilded, having in some places 
conventional paintings of lions, in 
others movable shutters. This 
apartment is 16 yds. wide by 7 yds. 
in depth. The corridor which suc- 
ceeds it is 4 yds. wide by 8 yds. in 
depth, and leads to the black lac- 
quered steps of the inner sanctum. 
Its ceiling is decorated with the 
phoenix on a green and gold ground. 
Handsome gilt doors covered with 
carved arabesques close the entrance 
to the sanctum, which measures 7 
yds. in depth by 11 }^ds. in width. 
The ceiling is decorated with fine 
gilt lattice-work in the coffers. The 
small shrines, containing the me- 
morial tablets of the illustrious 
dead, are gorgeous specimens of 
gold lacquer. Beginning at the r., 
these shrines are respectively those 
of the 5th, 8th, and 13th Shoguns, 
and of K6kyo-In, son of the tenth 
Shogun. B. and 1. are two shrines 
containing tablets of eight mothers of 
Shoguns. Curiously enough, all were 
concubines, not legitimate consorts. 
The actual graves are in the grounds 
behind. The finest, a bronze one, 
is that of the 5th Shogun. Its 
bronze gate has magnificent panels, 
with the phoenix and unicorn in 
bas-relief — Korean castings from 
Japanese designs about 140 years 
old. 

The First Mortuary Temple (Ichi 
no Go Reiya) is close to the Second. 
On leaving the Second, turn to the 
1. to reach the priests' house, where 
application for admission must be 
made. Here are buried the 4th, 
10th, and 11th Shoguns, together 
with several princesses. The monu- 
ment of the 4th is in bronze, the 
others in simple stone. Over the 
grave of the 11th Shogun hangs a 
weeping cherry-tree, placed there 
to commemorate the love of flowers 
which distinguished that amiable 



Higashi Hongwanji. 



109 



prince, whose reign (A.D. 1787-1838) 
formed the culminating point of the 
splendour of Old Japan. 

Returning towards the entrance 
of the park, we reach the Buddhist 
temple popularly known as Ryo 
Daishi, properly Jigen-Do, dedicated 
to the two great Abbots, Jie Daishi 
and Jigen Daishi, the former of 
whom nourished in the 9th century, 
the latter in the 16th and 17th. 
The portrait of Jie Daishi here pre- 
served is considered one of the chef- 
d'ceuvres of the great painter Kano 
Tan-yu. On this side of the park 
are some buildings often used of 
late years for art exhibitions of 
various kinds. 

We now leave Ueno, and passing 
along a busy thoroughfare, reach 
the district of Asakusa. The first 
object of interest here is the spacious 
temple of Higaslii Hongwanji, 
popularly called Monzeki, the chief 
religious edifice in Tokyo of the 
Monto sect of Buddhists. Though 
very plain, as is usual with the 
buildings of this sect, the Monzeki 
is worth visiting on account of its 
noble proportions. It was founded 
in 1657. The iron net-work thrown 
over the temple is intended to pre- 
vent sparks from falling on the 
wood-work, when there is a confla- 
gration in the neighbourhood. The 
huge porch is adorned with finely 
carved wooden brackets, the designs 
being chrysanthemum flowers and 
leaves, and peony flowers and 
leaves. On the transverse beams 
are some curiously involved dragons, 
which are the best specimens of 
this sort of work in Tokyo, and 
should therefore not be passed over. 
Observe, too, the manner — peculiar 
to the buildings of this sect — in 
which the beams are picked out with 
white. The area of the matted 
floor of the nave (gejin) is 140 mats, 
and round the front and sides runs 
a wooden aisle 12 ft. wide. Over 
the screen which separates the 
chancel and its side-chapels from 
the nave, are massive gilt open-work 
carvings representing angels and 



phoenixes ; the largest are 12 ft. 
in length by 4 ft. in height. The 
rest of the building is unadorned. 
Hanging against the gilt background 
of the temple wall, on either side of 
the altar, are to be seen several 
kakemonos of Buddhist saints, 
indistinguishable in the " dim religi- 
ous light;" als,o r. the posthumous 
tablet of Ieyasu, which is exposed 
for veneration on the 17th of the 
month. The honzon, Amida, is a 
black image, always exposed to 
view, and standing in a very hand- 
some shrine of black and gold lac- 
quer. From the r. side of bhe main 
hall, a bridge leads down to the 
Jiki-do, or preaching hall. At the 
main temple, sermons are only 
preached for one week in the year,, 
viz. from the 21st to 28th Novem- 
ber, when the gorgeous services 
{Ho-on-kd) held in honour of the 
founder of the sect are well worth 
witnessing. On this occasion, the 
men all go to the temple in the 
style of dress known as kata-gimi, 
and the women with a head-dress 
called tsuno-kakushi (lit. " horn- 
hider ") — both relics of the past. 
The " horn-hider " would seem to 
have been so named in allusion to 
a Buddhist text which says : " A 
woman's exterior is that of a saint, 
but her heart is that of a demon." — 
Lesser services are held at the time 
of the vernal' and autumnal equi- 
noxes. Quaint testimony is borne 
to the popularity of this temple 
with the lower middle class by the 
notices posted up on some of the 
great columns in the main hall. 
Not only is there one to prohibit 
smoking, but one warning people 
not to come here for their afternoon 
nap (Hiru-ne muyd) ! On quitting 
the Monzeki, notice its nobly mass- 
ive roof, with lions rampant at the 
corners. 

About 7 cho from the Monzeki, 
stands the great Buddhist temple 
of Sensdji, popularly called A.sa- 
kusa Kwannon, because dedicat- 
ed to Kwannon, the goddess of 
Mercy. 



110 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



A fabulous antiquity is claimed for the 
founding in this locality of a shrine 
sacred to Kwannon, the tradition being 
that the image which is now worshipped 
there, was fished up on the neighbouring 
strand daring the reign of the Empress 
Suiko (A.D. 593—628) by a noble of the 
name of Hashi-no-Nakatomo, who had 
been exiled to this then desolate portion 
of the coast, and with two attendants 
gained his livelihood by casting his nets 
at the mouth of the Asakusa. river. In 
his fishing-hut the first altar is said to 
have been raised ; and the crest of three 
nets, which is to be seen marking certain 
portions of the buildings, was devised in 
memory of the event. The miraculous 
image is never shown, but is commonly 
believed to be but If inch in height ; and 
the disproportion between the smallness 
of the image and the vastness of the 
temple has passed into a popular saying. 
Instead of the original sacred image, there 
is exhibited on the 13t,h December of 
every year a newer and larger one which 
stands in front of the high altar. In the 
year 1180, Yoritomo endowed the temple 
with ninety acres of arable land. But 
when leyasu made Yedo his capital, he 
found the temple gone to ruin, and the 
priests living in disorder and immorality. 
The present buildings date from the time 
of lemitsu, after the destruction by fire 
of the former edifice. They are in the 
possession of the Tendai sect of Bud- 
dhists. 

On no account should a visit to 
this popular temple and the sur- 
rounding grounds (Koenchi) be 
omitted ; for it is the great holiday 
resort of the middle and lower 
classes, and nothing is more strik- 
ing than the juxtaposition of piety 
and pleasure, of gorgeous altars 
and grotesque ex-votos, of pretty 
costumes and dingy idols, the 
clatter of the clogs, cocks and hens 
and pigeons strutting about among 
the worshippers, children playing, 
soldiers smoking, believers chaffer- 
ing with dealers of charms, ancient 
art, modern advertisements — in 
fine, a spectacle than which surely 
nothing more motley was ever wit- 
nessed within a religious edifice. 
The most crowded time is Sunday 
afternoon, and the 17th and 18th 
of each month, days sacred to 
Kwannon. 

The main gate of the temple no 
longer exists. One walks up 
through a lane of red brick shops, 



where toys, photographs, and gew- 
gaws of all kinds are spread out 
to tempt the multitude. The sam- 
mon, or two-storied gate in front of 
the temple, is a huge structure of 
red wood, with images of the Ni-d 
on either side. The immense 
sandals hung up in front of the 
cages containing these images, are 
placed there by persons desirous 
of becoming good walkers. To the 
1., immediately before passing 
through the big gate, is a popular 
Shrine of Fudo, just outside of 
which is a shrine of Jizo, distin- 
guishable by a prayer- wheel (go-sho- 
guruma) roughly resembling a pillar 
post-box. 

The prayer- wheel is, in Japan, found 
only in connection with the mystic doc- 
trine of the Tendai and Shingon sects, 
and its use differs slightly from that to 
which it is put in Thibet. No prayers are 
written on it ; but the worshipper, attri- 
buting to ingwa (the Sanskrit karma, which 
means, the effect in this life of the actions 
in a former state of existence) any sin 
of which he wishes to be cleansed, or any 
desire that occurs to him, turns the wheel 
with a simple request to Jizo to let this 
ingwa duly run its course — the course of 
ingwa, resembling the perpetual revolu- 
tions of a wheel. 

On the opposite or r. side of the 
lane, on a mound, is the large Asa- 
kusa bell whose sonorous notes are 
heard all over the northern part 
of the city. 

The great hall of the temple of 
Kwannon is 102 ft. square, and is 
entirely surrounded by a wide 
gallery. The large picture hanging 
above the entrance to the r. re- 
presents life (under the figure of 
two sleeping men and a sleep- 
ing tiger) as nothing more than a 
dream, the only living reality in 
which is the power of religion 
(typified by a Buddhist priest). 
Just below this rests a huge moku- 
gyo, a hollow wooden block, fish- 
shaped, which priests strike while 
praying. The eye is struck, on 
entering, by the immense number 
of lanterns and pictures which 
cover the ceiling and walls. These 
are all offerings presented by be- 



Temple of -Kwannon at Asakusa. 



Ill 



lievers. Some of the pictures are 
by good modern artists. One over 
the shrine to the r. represents a 
performance of the No, or mediaeval 
, lyric drama, in which the red-hair- 
ed sea-demon called Shojo plays 
the chief part. Opposite is a 
curious painted carving in relief, 
representing the "Three Heroes of 
Shoku" (a Chinese state established 
in the 2nd century chiefly by their 
efforts). The hero on the r., called 
Kwan-u, is now worshipped in 
China as the God of War. To the 
1. of this, is one showing On-Uma- 
ya-no-Kisanda fixing his bow-string 
to, shoot the foes of his master 
Yoshitsune, the latter (to the r.) 
being awakened by his mistress, the 
renowned and lovely Shizuka Go- 
zen. The ceiling is painted with 
representations of angels, the work 
of Kano Doshun. The seated image 
to the r., with a pink bib round its 
neck, and now almost rubbed away 
with age, was a celebrated work of 
Jikaku Daishi, and represents Bin- 
zuru, the helper of the sick. At 
any time of the day believers may 
be observed rubbing it (see p. 40). 
The stalls in front of the main 
shrine are for the sale of pictures 
of the goddess Kwannon, which are 
used as charms against sickness, to 
help women in child-birth, etc., of 
tickets to say whether a child about 
to be born will be a boy or a girl, 
and so forth. 

The chancel is, as usual, separat- 
ed from the nave by a wire screen, 
and is not accessible to the public. 
A small douceur tendered to one of 
the priests in charge will, however, 
generally procure admission. On 
the high altar, gorgeous with lamps, 
flowers, gold, damask, and sacred 
vessels, and guarded by figures of 
the Shi Tenno, of Bon ten, and of 
Taishaku, the latter said to be the 
work of Gyogi Bosatsu, stands the 
shrine containing the sacred image 
of Kwannon. On either side are 
ranged images, some 2 or 3 ft. 
high, of Kwannon in her " Three- 
and - Thirty Terrestrial Embodi- 



ments," each set in a handsome 
shrine standing out against the 
gold ground of the wall. E. and 1. 
of the altar, hang a pair of votive 
offerings — golden horses in high 
relief on a lacquer ground — present- 
ed by the Shogun Iemitsu. On the 
ceiling is a dragon, the work of Kano 
Eishin. The side altar to the r. is 
dedicated to Fudo. Observe the 
numerous vessels used in the 
ceremony of the Goma prayers, 
which are frequently offered up 
here for the recovery of the sick. 
The twelve small images are the 
Ju-ni Doji, or attendants of Kwan- 
non. The altar to the 1. is de- 
dicated to Aizen Myo-6, whose red 
image with three eyes and six arms 
is contained in a gaudy shrine. 
The two-storied miniature pagoda 
is simply an offering, as are also 
the thousand small images of 
Kwannon in a case to the 1., and 
the large European mirror, in front 
of which is a life-like image of the 
abbot Zennin Shonin. At the back 
of the main altar is another 
called Ura Kwannon {lira meaning 
"back"), which should be visited 
for the sake of the modern wall- 
pictures on lacquer with a back- 
ground of gold leaf, by artists of 
the Kano school. Above are a crowd 
of supernatural beings, headed by 
a converted dragon in the form 
of a beautiful woman, who offers a 
large jewel to Shaka. Two of the 
latter's disciples (Rakan) are at his 
r. foot, Monju at his 1. foot, and 
Fugen below on the 1. The figure 
of Fugen has been restored within 
the last thirty years. Those on the 
r. and 1. walls are intended for the 
Twenty -eight Manifestations of 
Kwannon. 

In the grounds are several build- 
ings of interest, and a number of 
icho trees whose golden foliage in 
autumu is a sight in itself. Be- 
hind the great temple to the 1., is a 
small shrine full of ex-votos in- 
scribed with the character )fr, 
" eye," presented by persons afflict- 
ed with eye disease. Beside it is a 



112 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



large bronze image of Buddha, and 
close by is a lantern on which be- 
lievers pour water to obtain an an- 
swer to their prayers. The small 
hexagonal building immediately be- 
hind the great temple is the Daiho- 
do or Jizo-do, containing a crowd of 
little stone images seated in tiers 
round a large one of Jizo. This 
divinity being the special protector 
of children, parents bring the images 
of their dead little ones to his shrine. 
Beyond the Jizo-do, is the Nem- 
butsu-do with a pretty altar. Turn- 
ing r., we come to the Sanja — a 
Shinto shrine, dedicated to the 
Three Fishermen of the local legend, 
and having panels decorated with 
mythological monsters in gaudy 
colours. Note the bronze and stone 
lions in front. Passing the stage 
on which the Kagura dances are 
performed, we reach the Rinzo, or 
Revolving Library, contained in a 
square building with carved lions on 
the eaves. 

The Minzb is a receptacle large enough. 
to hold a complete collection of the Bud- 
dhist Scriptures, but turning so easily on 
a pivot as to be readily made to revolve 
by one vigorous push. A ticket over the 
door explains the use of this peculiar 
book case : " Owing to the volurninousness 
of the Buddhist Scriptures — 6,771 volumes 
— it is impossible for any single in- 
dividual to read them through. But a 
degree of merit equal to that accruing to 
him who should have perused the entire 
canon, may be obtained by those who will 
cause this library to revolve three times 
on its axis ; and moreover long life, pros- 
perity, and the avoidance of all misfor- 
tunes shall be their reward." The inven- 
tion of Revolving Libraries is attributed to 
Fu Daishi (see p. 41). That at Asakusa, is 
of red lacquer on a black lacquer base and 
stone lotus-shaped pedestal. The ceiling 
of the small building containing it has re- 
presentations of clouds and angels. The 
images in front, on entering, represent 
Fu Daishi with his sons. Those tramp- 
ling on demons are the Shi Tenno, and 
the life-size gilt figure is Shaka. The 
books, which were brought from China 
early in the 13th century, are aired every 
year at the autumn equinox, but are not 
shown at other times. The custodian, in 
return for a small gratuity, will allow 
visitors to make the library revolve. 

The Pagoda close by is no longer 
open to visitors. 



Adjacent to the temple enclosure 
we find the Asakusa Koenchi, or 
Public Grounds, where stands the 
lofty tower, properly called Byd-un- 
kaku, and more popularly, Ju-ni- 
kai. This building, erected in 1890, 
has twelve storeys, as its popular 
name implies, is 220 ft. in height, 
nearly 50 ft. in internal diameter at 
the base, and commands a more 
extensive view than any other point 
in the city. 

The grounds of Asakusa are the 
quaintest and liveliest place in 
Tokyo. Here are raree-shows, penny 
gaffs, performing monkeys, cheap 
photographers, street artists, jug- 
glers, wrestlers, theatrical and 
other figures (ningyo) in painted wood 
and clay, vendors of toys and lolly- 
pops of every sort, and, circulating 
amidst all these cheap attractions, a 
seething crowd of busy holiday- 
makers. 

About 1 m. to the N. of Asakusa 
Park lies the world-famed Yoshi- 
ivara, the principal quarter inhabit- 
ed by the licensed hetairse of the 
metropolis. Many of the houses 
within this district are almost pala- 
tial in appearance, and in the eve- 
ning present a spectacle probably 
unparalleled in any other country, 
but reproduced on a smaller scale 
in the provincial Japanese cities. 
The unfortunate inmates, decked 
out in gorgeous raiment, sit in rows 
with gold screens behind, and pro- 
tected from the outside by iron 
bars. As the whole quarter is under 
special municipal surveillance, per- 
fect order prevails, enabling the 
stranger to study, while walking 
along the streets, the manner in 
which the Japanese have solved one 
of the vexed questions of all ages. 
Their method, though running 
counter to Anglo-Saxon ideas, pre- 
serves Tokyo from the disorderly 
scenes that obtrude themselves ;on 
the passer-by in our Western cities. 

On the other side of Azuma-bashi, 
the finest bridge in Tokyo, is the 



Muhdjima. Eko-in. 



118 



Satake Yashiki, which offers one of 
the best specimens of the Japanese 
style of landscape gardening. A 
small fee gives admittance to it. 
The noted Yaomatsu tea-house 
stands close by. 

Mukojima, celebrated for its 
avenue of cherry-trees, stretches 
for more than a mile along the 
1. bank of the Sumida-gawa. When 
the blossoms are out in April, 
Mukojima is densely crowded with 
holiday-makers from morn till dusk, 
and the tea-houses on the banks 
and the boats on the river re-echo 
with music and merriment. This 
sight, which lasts for about a week, 
should on no account be missed. 
The little temple at the end of the 
avenue was raised in remembrance 
of a touching episode of the 10th 
centmy, which forms the subject of 
a famous Lyric Drama. 

Umewaka, the child of a noble family, 
was carried off from Kyoto by a slave- 
merchant, and perished in this distant 
spot, where his body was fonnd by a 
good priest who gave it burial. The next 
year his mother, who had roamed over 
the country in search of her boy, came to 
the place, where, under a willow-tree, the 
villagers were weeping over a lowly 
grave. On asking the name of the dead, 
she discovered that it was none other 
than her own son, who during the night 
appeared in ghostly form, and held con- 
verse with her; but when day dawned, 
nothing remained but the waving 
branches of the willow, and instead of 
his voice only the sighing of the breeze. 
A commemorative service is still held on 
the 15th March; and if it rains on that 
day, the people say the rain-drops are 
Umewaka' s tears. 

Another favourite flower resort, lying 
some little way beyond Mukojima, 
is Horikiri, famed for its irises 
which bloom in June. The excur- 
sion is a pleasant one at that time 
of the year. 

7. — Eko-in. The Five Hundred 
Kakan. Kameido. District of 

FUKAGAWA. SUSAKI. 

Crossing Ryogoku-baslii, one of 
the largest bridges in the metro- 
polis spanning the Sumida-gawa, 
we reach the noted Buddhist tem- 
ple of Eko-in. 



In the spring of 1657, on the occasion of 
a terrible conflagration which lasted for 
two days and nights, 107,046 persons are 
said to have perished in the flames. The 
Government undertook the care of their 
interment, and orders were given to Dan- 
zaemon, the chief of the pariahs,* to con- 
vey the bodies to Ushijima, as this part 
of Yedo was then called, and dig for them 
a common pit. Priests from all the 
different Buddhist sects came together 
to recite, for the space of seven days, a 
thousand scrolls of the sacred books for 
the benefit of the souls of the departed. 
The grave was called Muenzuku, or the 
Mound of Destitution, and the temple 
which was built near it is, therefore, also 
popularly entitled Muenji. Eko-in being, 
on account of its peculiar origin, without 
the usual means of support derived from 
the gifts of the relatives of the dead, was 
formerly used as the place whither sacred 
images were brought from other provinces 
to be worshipped for a time by the people 
of Yedo, and as a scene of public per- 
formances. The latter custom still sur- 
vives in the wrestling-matches and other 
shows, which draw great crowds here 
every spring and winter. At Eko-in 
prayers are offered up daily for the souls 
of dead animals. A fee of 30 cents will 
procure a short service and burial in the 
temple grounds for such domestic pets as 
cats, dogs, etc., a larger sum being neces- 
sary if the animal's ihai, or funeral tablet, 
has also to be furnished. 

Eko-in might well be taken as a 
text by those who denounce 
" heathen " temples. Dirty, gaudy, 
full of semi-defaced images, the 
walls plastered with advertisements, 
the altar guarded by two hideous red 
monsters, children scampering in 
and out, wrestlers stamping, crowds 
shouting — the place lacks even the 
semblance of sanctity. In a small 
arched enclosure behind the temple, 
stands the grave of the celebrated 
highwayman Neziimi Kozd, where 
incense is always kept burning. 
The cemetery at the back contains 
monuments to those who perished 
in the great fire of 1657, and in the 
great earthquake of 1855. 

In Honjo, Midori-cho, about 1 
mile further on, is a temple con- 



* In Japanese, Eta. Their occupations 
were to slaughter animals, tan leather, 
assist at executions, etc. The class as 
such is now abolished; but remnants of 
its peculiar costume may still occasional- 
ly be seen in the persons of young girls 
with broad hats, who go about the streets* 
playing and singing. 



114 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



taming painted images, almost life- 
size, of the Five Hundred Rakan 
(Go-hyaku Rakan), seated on shelves 
reaching from the bare earth of 
the floor to the rafters of the roof. 
They are from the chisel of Shoun, 
an artist of the 17th century. On 
some of them are pasted slips of 
paper with their names. The much 
larger image in the centre repre- 
sents Shaka, with Anan on his r. 
hand and Kasho on his 1. The 
white image in front of Shaka is 
Kwannon. The temple also con- 
tains a hundred small images of 
Kwannon. The present edifice dates 
only from 1889, when the images 
were removed from an older build- 
ing in the district of Fukagawa, 
which had fallen into decay. 

Not far off stands the Shinto 
Temple of Temmangu, commonly 
known as Ksisneido, from a stone 
tortoise seated on a well in the 
grounds. Sugawara-no-Michizane 
is here worshipped under the title 
of Temman Daijizai, i.e., " the Per- 
fectly Free and Heaven -Filling 
Heavenly Divinity." The temple 
grounds have been laid out in 
imitation of those at Dazaifu, the 
place of his exile. Passing in 
through the outer gate, the eye is 
first attracted by the wistarias 
trained on trellis, whose blossoms, 
during the last week of April, make 
Kameido one of the chief show- 
places of the capital. They grow on 
the borders of a pond called Shinji 
no Ike, or "Pond of the Word Heart," 
on account of a supposed resem- 
blance to i\^>, the Chinese character 
for " heart ; " and one of the amuse- 
ments of the visitors is to feed the 
carp and tortoises which it contains. 
A semi-circular bridge leads over the 
pond to a large gate in Yatsu- 
mune-zukuri (i.e., eight-roofed) style, 
standing in front of the temple. 
Glass cases inside the gate enclose 
the usual large images of Zuijin. 
Round the walls of the temple 
hang small pictures on a gold 
ground of the ancient religious 
dances called Bugaku. 



Beyond a shed containing two 
life-size images of sacred ponies, is 
an exit by which the visitor can 
reach the Ume-yashiki, or Plum- 
Garden of Kameido, 4 cho distant. 
Here grow the Gwarydbai (lit. 
Plum-trees of the Recumbent Dra- 
gon), and it is a great show-place 
early in March, when the blossoms 
are all out. There are over 500 
trees, all extremely old and partly 
creeping along the ground, whence 
the name. Most of the cut stones 
which stand about the grounds are 
inscribed with stanzas of poetry in 
praise of the flowers ; and during 
the season, similar tributes written 
on paper will be seen hung up on 
the branches A few cho off lies 
Mukdjima, described above. 

The S.E. part of Tokyo, consisting 
of the district of Fukagawa on the 
1. bank of the Sumida-gawa, is a 
maze of narrow streets, chiefly in- 
habited by the lower trading and 
artisan classes, and offers little for 
the sightseer. 

Joshiiiji, though the chief temple 
of the Nichiren sect in Tokyo, is 
quite unpretentious ; but there are 
some good carvings on the gates of 
the priests' dwellings which line the 
narrow street leading up to it. In 
the court-yard is a large bronze 
image of Shaka supported on the 
shoulders of stone demons ; and at 
the back, beyond the cemetery, a 
curious susperstitious practice may 
be witnessed at the shrine of 
Shogyo Bosatsu. The stone image 
of the saint stands in a little wooden 
shed hung round with small re- 
gularly cut bundles of straw. The 
faithful buy these at the gate, dip 
them in water, brush the idol with 
them, and then ladle water over his 
head, believing that this ceremony 
will ensure a favourable reply to 
their petitions. The image is con- 
stantly wet, showing how firm the 
belief is. The priests of the sect 
seem unable to account for the 
origin of the usage. 

The Shinto temple of Hachiman, 
which dates from A.D. 1668, is 



Sasaki. Tsukiji. 



115 



•handsome, owing to former Bud- 
dhist influence. The walls and 
■ceiling are decorated with paintings 
•of birds and flowers, and there are 
also some pretty wood carvings. 
The ornamentation of the chancel 
is extremely rich, the ceiling being 
panelled, and gold profusely scat- 
tered about. There are likewise 
gold lions, and gold figures of the 
Sun-Goddess Amaterasu and of the 
Gods of Kasuga. Doves fly about 
the grounds, as is usual in temples 
dedicated to Hachiman. They are 
supposed to act as the god's mes- 
sengers, — strange messengers from 
the God of War ! 

The district situated between the 
temple of Hachiman and that of 
Susaki-no-Benten is noted for its 
trade in timber, the town being here 
intersected by numerous canals 
communicating with the river, 
down which come the timber-laden 
rafts from the inland provinces. 
The temple of Susaki no Benten 
(Susaki being the name of the pro- 
jecting point of land on which it is 
situated) dates from the latter part 
of the 17th century, at which time 
the ground on which it was erected 
had only recently been reclaimed.. 
The temple itself is uninteresting ; 
but on a clear day there is a good 
view from the embankment built 
after the ravages of the inundations 
and tidal waves of the eighth decade 
of the last century. At low tide, 
which the Japanese consider the 
prettiest time, and especially if the 
season be spring, numerous pleasure 
boats, with singing-girls and other 
merry-makers, will be seen lazily 
floating about in the offing, watch- 
ing the oyster-catchers ply their 
trade. 

8. — Tsukiji. 

On the way from the Shimbashi 
Terminus to the Foreign Conces- 
sion in Tsukiji, several important 
modern buildings are passed : — 1. 
the Fifteenth National Bank, r. the 
Imperial Department of Communi- 
cations, and further on r. the De- 



partment of Agriculture and Com- 
merce, a huge building, opposite to 
which is the Seiyoken Hotel. Be- 
hind the latter stands the Kabuki- 
za, one of the best theatres of the 
metropolis. The Naval Academy is 
seen to the r. beyond the canal. 
Still further to the r. is the Enryo 
hwan, formerly the summer palace 
of the Shoguns, and more recently 
a place of entertainment for il- 
lustrious visitors. It is also used 
once a year for an Imperial Garden 
party, at the season when the 
masses of double cherry-flowers are 
in bloom. The Enryo-kwan is un- 
fortunately not open to the general 
public. 

To the 1. is the enclosure of the 
Nishi Hongioanji, popularly called 
the Tsukiji Monzeki, a vast temple 
burnt down in 1893, but likely to be 
rebuilt, as it belongs to the rich and 
powerful Monto sect. The Renge- 
den, or Lotus Hall, used for ser- 
mons, remains intact. 

A large proportion of the build- 
ings in the Foreign Concession is 
devoted to religious and educational 
purposes, testifying to the zeal of 
the various missionary bodies, 
whose members form the bulk of 
the population. The most striking 
places of worship are the Cathedral 
of the Protestant Episcopal Church 
of America and the Koman Catholic 
Cathedral. Another conspicuous 
building is the Hotel Mttropole, 
situated on the Bund facing the 
Sumida-gawa near its mouth. Be- 
yond the river lies Ishikawa-jima, 
where stands a large Convict Prison. 
The land is gaining rapidly on the 
water in this district, the whole spit 
opposite the Bund having been re- 
claimed within the last eighteen 
years. On a fine breezy day, the 
junks sailing up the river mouth add 
picturesque animation to the scene. 



116 



Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo. 



ROUTE 5. 

EXCUBSIONS FROM TOKYO. 

1. MEGUEO, YUTENJI, AND KUHON- 
BUTSU. 2. IKEGAMI. 3. FUTAGO 
AND MARIKO. 4. JUNISO, HORI-NO- 
UCHI, AND I-NO-KASHIRA. 5. KO- 
GANEI. 6. TAKAO-ZAN. 7. OJI. 8. 
THE CAVE-DWELLINGS NEAR KO- 
NOSU. 9. KONODAI. 

(All these places may be visited 
without passports, except Takao-zan, 
Konosu, and Konodai.) 

1. Meguro, Yutenji, and Kuhon- 

BUTSU. 

Meguro {Tea-houses, *Uchida, 
Eashiwa-ya ; there are several 
others, but they are apt to be 
noisy) is a favourite picnic resort, 
3 m. out of the city westwards by 
road or Suburban Railway ; but the 
station is about a mile from the 
village. Shortly after leaving the 
station, at the top of a descent call- 
ed Gydnin-zaka, one seesl. the small 
temple of Daienji, which deserves 
passing notice for the sake of the 
Go-hyaku Rakan, — tier upon tier 
of small seated Buddhist images 
in various attitudes of meditation, 
quaint yet pathetic in their stony 
stillness. Meguro is seen to best 
advantage when either the peonies 
or the chrysanthemums are in 
blossom. There are two permanent 
sights — the Temple of Fudo, and 
the graves of Gompachi and Ko- 
murasaki. The key to the latter 
is kept at the tea-house. The 
grave is called Hiyoku-zuka, after 
the hiyoku, a fabulous double bird 
which is an emblem of constancy 
in love. It may be added that 
sentiment is the only motive for 
visiting the grave, as there is really 
nothing to see. 

About 250 years ago, there lived a 
young man called Shirai Gompachi, who 
at the age of sixteen had already won a 
name for his skill in the use of arms, but, 
having had the misfortune to kill a fellow- 
clansman in a quarrel over a dog, was 



compelled to fly from his native province. 
While resting at an inn on his way to Yedo, 
a beautiful girl named Komurasaki came 
and awoke him at midnight, to tell him that 
a band of robbers, who had stolen her from 
her home, intended to kill him for the 
sake of the sword which every Samurai at 
that time carried. Being thus forewarn- 
ed, Gompachi succeeded in slaying the 
thieves when the attack was made upon 
him. He also restored the girl to her 
grateful father, a rich merchant, who 
would have been glad to make the young 
man his son-in-law j but being ambitious, 
Gompachi insisted on pursuing his way 
to Yedo. Meanwhile, unhappy Komura- 
saki was left to pine for the handsome 
youth with whom she had fallen deeply 
in love. After further adventures, Gom- 
pachi reached Yedo, only however to fall 
into dissolute habits. Hearing much 
praise of a lovely and accomplished girl 
who had lately become an inmate of the 
Yoshiwara, Gompachi went to see her, 
and was astonished to find in the famous 
beauty no other than the maiden whom 
he had but a few months before rescued 
from the robbers' den. It was the usual 
pathetic story. Her parents having be- 
come poverty-stricken, she had sold her- 
self in order to alleviate their distress. 
Frequent visits to his sweetheart soon 
exhausted Gompachi's slender means, and 
having no fixed employment, he was 
driven in desperation to murder a man 
for the sake of money to spend at the 
Yoshiwara. The crime was repeated, 
until he was caught red-handed, and 
ultimately beheaded as a common male- 
factor. A friend claimed the body and 
buried it at Meguro, whither poor Komu- 
rasaki hastened on hearing the sad news 
of her lover's end, and throwing herself 
on the newly-made grave, plunged a 
dagger into her bosom and died. 

At the bottom of the stops lead- 
ing up the temple of Fudo, is a 
pool fed by two tiny cascades. To 
stand naked under the stream of 
water for several hours in cold 
weather is considered a meritorious- 
penance, the effect of which is to 
wash away all taint of sin. Tradi- 
tion says that Jikaku Daishi, the 
founder of this temple, miraculously 
called the spring into existence by 
the aid of his mace (tokko), whence 
the name of Tokko-no-taki, or Mace 
Cascade. The most remarkable of 
the ex-votos is a huge sword, such 
as the god Fudo is often represented 
with. 

To prevent mistakes, it may here 
be noted that } ri from Meguro 



¥©B£¥@ 

AM ® 






fa 






1 .<** 



7 *> 






Yutenji. Kuhon-butsu. Ilcegami. 



117 



proper, and nearer Tokyo, lies an- 
other village called Kami-Meguro. 
At the latter also there is a good 
spot for picnics, known as Shin-Fuji 
— a small artificial hill, from the top 
of which an extensive view is ob- 
tained. A third picnic resort in 
this neighbourhood is Sensoku, 
which has a pretty piece of water. 
It is about 1 ri from Meguro on the 
direct road from Tokyo to Mariko. 

Ten did W. of Meguro, stands in 
solemn solitude the handsome tem- 
ple of Yifiteiiji, founded in the early 
part of the 18th century. The art- 
treasures of this temple, which are 
set out in January, May, and Sep- 
tember, will well repay a visit. 
There are a series of kakemono by 
Cho Densu, paintings by Motonobu, 
gorgeous lacquer and bronze objects 
formerly belonging to the Tokugawa 
family, etc., etc. Among the most in- 
teresting curiosities, are some fine 
specimens of old European tapestry, 
which were probably presented to 
the Shogun by the head of the 
Dutch factory at Nagasaki. At 
other times it is difficult, if not 
impossible, to see these objects, as 
they are carefully stored away. 
The florist's garden in the immediate 
neighbourhood of Yutenji well de- 
serves a visit in spring. 

Kuhon-butsu. These temples, 
containing the nine large and hand- 
somely gilt images of Buddha from 
which the place derives its name, 
are situated in the vicinity of 
Meguro. The direct way is along 
the pretty main road to Futago — 
f hr. ride from the Meguro railway 
station, — thence for 15 min. by a 
path 1. across the fields which 
finally emerges on an avenue lead- 
ing to the temple buildings, charm- 
ingly situated amongst finely wood- 
ed surroundings. Kuhon-butsu be- 
longs to the Jodo sect of Buddhists. 
In the upper storey of the massive 
gateway repose a number of gilt, 
but sadly neglected, images of 
Kwannon. The main hall stands 
in the centre of the grounds, and 
faces the three shrines in each of 



which are three images — splendid 
specimens of the sculptor's art, and 
all in an excellent state of preserva- 
tion. A visit to Kuhon-butsu, 
Meguro, and Yutenji may be com- 
bined in one agreeable outing. 

2. — Ike g ami. 

_ Ikeg'ami is reached by train to 
Omori station on the Yokohama 
line in \ hr., whence it is about 1 m. 
by jinrikisha. The great temple 
of Hommonji is celebrated, as the 
spot where the Buddhist saint Ni- 
chiren died in A.D. 1282. Its fine 
situation and magnificent timber 
make it one of the most attractive 
points within easy reach of Tokyo. 
The best time to visit it is on the 
12th — 13th October, when the an- 
nual festival in Nichiren's honour 
takes place. On this occasion over 
20,000 persons make the pilgrimage. 
Another festival is held from the 
22nd to 28th April. At the top of 
the temple steps is 1. the Daimoku- 
do, where some of the faithful are 
generally to be heard beating the 
drum and reciting the formulary of 
the sect — Namu My oho Eenge Kyo. 
Next to this, is a temple dedi- 
cated to Kato Kiyomasa. Then 
comes the Shaka-do, or Hall of 
Shaka, where worshippers spend 
the night at the time of the annual 
festival, with, behind it, another 
building containing a complete set 
of the Buddhist scriptures that 
may be made to revolve on a huge 
hexagonal wheel. Fronting the 
gate is the main temple, recently 
restored in handsome style, an 
evidence of the popularity which 
this sect still enjoys. On the altar 
stands an exquisitely lacquered 
shrine, containing a life-size image 
of Nichiren in sitting posture, said 
to have been carved by Nichiro, 
one of his chief disciples. The 
upper part of the wall is decorated 
with pictures of angels pla}'ing on 
musical instruments. Behind the 
altar, outside the temple, is a 
pictorial representation of the chief 
incidents in the saint's life. The 



118 



Boute 5. — Excursions from Tokyo. 



extensive buildings at the rear are 
the residences of the abbot and 
monks. Although Nichiren died at 
Ikegami, his bones were conveyed 
to Minobu ; all that remain here 
are one tooth and the ashes of his 
funeral pyre. The shrine (Kotstc-do) 
containing these relics is a short 
way down the hill to the 1. This 
building, about 20 ft. in diameter, 
stands on a huge lotus-flower of 
stone. (For plan of Ikegami see 
p. 37). 

One may picnic either at the tea- 
house (Tamba-ya) in the village, or 
(but in this case notice must be sent 
the day before, as the matter is 
more or less one of favour) at Eijuin, 
a temple in the wood behind the 
pagoda, having beautiful plum-trees 
and peonies, besides a fine view. 
The imposing-looking tomb in the 
temple garden is that of a Daimyo's 
wife. A third place, immediately 
below the pagoda, is the immense 
tea-house of Akebono-ro, popularly- 
known as Ikegami Onsen. It is 
quite a curiosity, sprawling as it 
does up and down two hills by 
means of galleries and bridges, 
which remind the beholder of scenes 
in Chinese art. This tea-house is 
a favourite native holiday resort. 

3. — FOTAGO AND MAEIKO. 

Fiitag'O (Inn, Kame-ya) lies on 
the banks of the Tamagawa, 2j ri 
by jinrikisha from Tokyo. Just 
before reaching the river, there is 
a striking view of Fuji and a pano- 
rama of the surrounding country. 
During the summer months, the 
Japanese visit Futago for the sake 
of the sport — if so it can be termed 
— of watching fishermen net the ayu 
(or ai), a kind of trout. A little 
higher up, at Sekido, cormorant 
fishing is practised on a small scale 
(comp. Route 34). One ri down the 
river from Futago lies 

Mrtriko (Inn, Wakamatsu-ya, on 
the Tokyo side), a place of similar 
character. An alternative way of 
returning to Tokyo is to take boat 
down the river to Kawasaki station, 



which is about 2 hrs. from Futago. 
The distance by the direct jinriki- 
sha road from Mariko to Tokyo is 
2 ri 30 did. 

4. — JUNISO, HORI-NO-UCHI, AND 
I-NO-KASHIRA. 

Jiiniso. Train to Shinjiku sta- 
tion on the Suburban Line, or jin- 
rikisha all the way. Crossing the 
railway, the extensive works seen on 
the 1. are those of the new water- 
works for the supply of Tokydj 
whence, proceeding along the Ome 
Kaido for 10 min., the path to 
Juniso turns 1. through the fields, 
and in 10 min. more a short avenue 
of pines is reached, leading to the 
small and deserted temple of Juniso 
Gongen. Below the temple lies a 
small lake, plentifully stocked with 
a species of carp. Several tea-sheds 
stand at the upper end. Juniso is 
a favourite spot for pleasure parties 
during the summer months. 

Hori-no-nchi may be reached in 
f hr. from Juniso. A lane directly 
behin_d the tea-sheds soon rejoins 
the Ome Kaido, along which we 
proceed for J hr., to leave it again 
by a path 1., at the corner of which 
is a pretty plum orchard. A short 
distance beyond, the path turns 
sharp r., where a stone indicates the 
distance to Hori-no-uchi as 16 did. 
From here an avenue of double 
cherry-trees is lined with shops for 
the sale of rosaries, salted plums, 
toys, etc. The temple of Myohdji 
at Hori-no-uchi, belonging to the 
Nichiren sect, merits a visit for the 
sake of the excellent carvings that 
adorn the main building — those of 
dragons in the porch, below the 
architrave, and in the eaves being 
especially spirited. The iron gates 
and railing to the r. of the main 
entrance are good specimens of 
modern workmanship. On the 1. of 
the court, is a long shed filled with a 
curious collection of ex-votos, such 
as the queues of men whose prayers 
have been granted by the inter- 
position of Nichiren, oil-paintings, 
etc. In the main hall, a splendid 



Hori-no-uchi. I-no-kashira. Koganei. 



119 



shrine 5 ft. square and 10 ft. long, 
covered with gilt carvings, occupies 
the centre of the further side of the 
chancel. It contains a seated image 
of Nichiren, said to be the earliest 
effigy of the saint, and to have 
been carved in A.D. 1261. It can be 
seen and a short service in its honour 
witnessed, on payment of a small fee. 
The principal festival is held on the 
13th October, the anniversary of 
Nichiren's death. A polite request 
will generally gain permission to 
visit the lovely landscape garden 
attached to the main temple. 

Half a ri further on is the once 
noted temple of Omiya Hachiman, 
founded in the 10th century, but 
now terribly decayed. A stately 
avenue of cryptomerias and maple- 
trees, together with several torii, 
attest its former importance. 

Proceeding through the flat fields 
for 3J m. further, we reach the 
Temple of Benten, picturesquely 
situated on the borders of the little 
lake of I-no-kashira, whose waters, 
derived from seven small springs, 
supply the aqueduct leading to 
Kanda in Tokyo. 

History says that in 1600 the lake was 
visited by leyasu, who found the water 
so excellent that it was used ever after 
for making His Highness' s tea. In 1639 
his grandson, the Shogun Ieinitsu, gave 
orders for the water to be laid on to the 
Castle in Yedo. He also, on the occasion 
of a visit to the lake, carved with the 
small knife from his dirk the head of a 
wild boar (i no kashira) on the trunk of a 
tree close by, whence the present name. 
It was not, however, till about 1653 that 
the aqueduct was constructed. 

I-no-kashira attracts visitors 
chiefly in April for the cherry- 
blossoms, and in May for the azaleas. 

The best way_to return to Tokyo 
is to regain the Ome Kaido, 40 min., 
whence it is about 2 ri to Shinjiku 
station. After bad weather the 
roads are heavy throughout. 

5. — Koganei. 

Koganei, with its fine avenue of 
cherry-trees iij m. in length, along 
the banks of the small canal that 
conducts the waters of the Tama- 



gawa to Tokyo, is about 1J ri beyond 
I-no-kashira, but should only be 
visited when the trees are in blos- 
som. It is most easily reached by 
train to Sakai on the Hachioji line, 
\ hr. from Shinjiku Junction, and 
\ hr. distant from the avenue. 

Ten thousand young trees were brought 
from Yoshino in Yamato, and from the 
banks of the Sakura-gawa in Hitachi, 
and planted here in 1735 by command of 
the Shogun Yoshimune. 

The crowds that assemble daily to 
revel under the shade of the pink 
and white blossoms about the 
middle of April, present a gay 
spectacle. 

Instead of returning to Sakai, it 
will be found shorter to walk on to 
Kokubunji station, which is only 
about 20 min. from the upper end 
of the avenue. A pleasant alterna- 
tive plan is to return by jinrikisha 
via I-no-kashira and Hori-no-uchi, 
3 hrs. to Shinjiku station. 

— By the Shinjiku - Hachioji 
Kailway to Takao-zan. 





Names 




12'S 5 


of 


Remarks. 


ft m 


Stations. 






SHINJIKU Jet. 




3 m. 


Nakano. 

( 


Alight for cherry 


10 


Sakai j 


avenue of Ko- 
ganei. 


13 


Kokubunji. 

( 


Alight for Tama- 


17 


Tachikawa < 


gawa Valley, 
Route 26. 


19 


Hino. 




23 


HACHIOJI. 





This is a favourite excursion in 
spring and autumn with holiday- 
makers from Tokyo. The railway 
journey to Hachioji occupies \\ hr., 
whence it is 2ri along the plain to 
the foot of Takao-zan. Jinrikishas 
and baslia traverse this distance in 
about 1 hr. 

The railway track, after leaving 
Shinjiku, lies for a short distance 
close to the Florists' Gardens of 



120 



Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo. 



Okubo, noted for their azaleas, the 
rest of the route passing mostly 
over a flat country with heavy, 
clayey soil. The Tamagawa and 
one of its affluents are crossed 
before reaching 

Hacllioji (Inn, Kado-ya), the 
centre of an important silk district, 
but otherwise uninteresting. One 
long and broad street forms the 
business part of the town. 

A short distance beyond the vil- 
lage of Komagino, the path lead- 
ing up Takao-zan turns off r. from 
the main road, and crosses the 
stream, from which point to the 
temple buildings is a walk of about 
1 hr. 

Takao-zan is a high hill rising 
some 1,600 ft. above the sea. On 
the summit stands a much frequent- 
ed temple, surrounded by a splendid 
grove, chiefly of cryptomerias, 
planted in past times by de- 
votees of the temple. The road is 
lined with posts on which are 
recorded the names of persons who 
have presented young trees, so many 
hundreds at a time, with the object 
of maintaining the grove undimi- 
nished. On the platform at the top 
of the ascent, stands a fine bronze 
pagoda, 12 ft. in height. Above 
this, on another terrace, are three 
shrines dedicated toFudo, Yakushi, 
and Dainichi, and at the top of a 
long flight of steps is a gaudily 
decorated Shinto shrine with paint- 
ed carvings. The annual festival 
takes place on the 21st April. 
Trees shut out the view from this 
point ; but lower down a space has 
been cleared, from which the eye 
ranges over the plain of Tokyo and 
the sea in the distance. A narrower 
and steeper path than that ascended 
may be taken on the way down, 
and affords pretty glimpses of the 
densely wooded valley. 



7.— Oji. 

Oji. — The vill. of Oji, long one 
of the favourite retreats in the sub- 
urbs of Tokyo, now presents more 
the aspect of a manufacturing cen- 



tre than of a holiday resort. Huge 
brick buildings, paper and cotton 
mills, the clash of machinery, and 
lofty chimneys from which columns 
of smoke sweep over the cherry-trees 
on Asuka-yama, deprive the place of 
much of its former tranquillity and 
beauty. Oji is, nevertheless, still 
one of the attractions in the envi- 
rons of the great city ; and crowds 
flock there twice yearly, — in spring 
when the cherry-trees are in blossom, 
and in autumn when the maples 
lining the banks of the Taki-no- 
gaiva put on their crimson tints. 

The train from Ueno station lands 
one in a few minutes close to the 
noted tea-houses, Ogi-ya and Ebi-ya, 
which stand together on the edge of 
the stream, and look out on a small 
but tastefully arranged garden. 
Half a mile beyond the tea-houses, 
in a grove of evergreen oaks on the 
top of a slight eminence, stands the 
Temple of InarL The buildings 
consist of a rather dilapidated 
oratory and chapel. In the court- 
yard are some fine old cherry-trees. 
The temple and little waterfall dedi- 
cated to Fudo, also in the vicinity 
of the tea-houses, attract many 
visitors. As the trains are gene- 
rally full to overflowing during the 
cherry and maple seasons, some 
visitors may prefer to go out by 
road. The prettiest way, 5 m., 
leaves the little lake at Ueno, and 
passing through the suburb of 
Shimo Komagome, turns to the r. 
on reaching the tomb of the Dai- 
myo of Kaga, descends the hill, 
and follows up the valley to the 1. 

8.— The Caves (Hyaku Ana) near 
Konosu. 

These interesting artificial Caves 
are situated at Kita Yoshimi-mura 
in the prefecture of Saitama, and 
are within the limits of a short day's 
excursion from Tokyo. Konosu is 
reached in 1J hr. by train from 
Ueno station. The road to Kita 
Yoshimi-mura, 2^ ri distant, crosses 
the railway line not far from the 
station, and runs over the plain 



Caves of Konosn. Konodai. 



121 



straight towards the Chichibu 
mountains. It is a good jinrikisha 
road, though apt in parts to be heavy 
after rain. Kita Yoshimi-mura 
nestles under the first hilly ground 
met with on the road. At the 
further end of the village, the path 
to the caves turns r. On the way, 
a quaint old temple of Kwannon, 
worthy a few minutes' attention, 
is passed. It is wedged in between 
rocks, from the inner side of which 
an entrance leads to a chamber 
containing a number of stone images 
of Kwannon. A few yards beyond 
stands the office of the local author- 
ities, by whom the place is now 
maintained. These officials will 
furnish a guide to the caves hard 
by. The whole hillside is honey- 
combed with these relics of a remote 
-antiquity, whose origin and use 
have given occasion to controversy 
amongst the learned. 

Mr. Aston, the pioneer in Japanese ar- 
chaeological research, declares that there 
is good reason to believe that the caves 
were primarily intended for sepulchres, 
although some were doubtless used as 
shelters by beggars and outlaws at a 
later period; while Dr. Tsuboi, of the 
Imperial University of Japan, an energe- 
tic worker in the same field, and the dis- 
coverer of most of the caves at Yoshimi- 
mura, maintains that they were the habita- 
tions of the beings whom the Japanese term 
"earth-spiders." The original Japanese 
word is tmehi-gumo. There is consider- 
able doubt as to its etymology, though 
every one agrees in interpreting it to 
mean a race of cave-dwelling savages. 
Motoori, the greatest of all Japanese 
literati, explains the name by a com- 
parison of the habits of the race in ques- 
tion with those of the spider. But it is 
surely more rational to regard the word 
tmchi-gumo as a corruption of tsuchi-go- 
mori, " earth-Aiders," than which no name 
could be more appropriate to troglodytes. 
These people, who were widely spread 
over Japan in prehistoric times, were 
probably the ancestors of the modern 
Ainos. One of the earliest Japanese his- 
tories describes them as "short in stature, 
and having long arms and legs like 
pigmies." Jimmu Tenno is said to have 
massacred a number of them in one of 
their cave-dwellings. 

The caves, most of which face 
due S., are believed to number two 
hundred and thirty-seven in all. 
The entrances are about 3 ft. square ; 



then comes a passage of 6 ft. and 
upwards in length, leading to a 
second doorway within which are 
the chambers. These are of various 
sizes, many being 6 ft. square, 
and from 5 to 6 ft. high. The 
ceilings are dome-shaped. Each 
chamber contains one or two ledges 
having slightly raised edges. Traces 
of the use of tools are visible on 
the walls. Iron rings, arrow-heads, 
etc., have been found in some of 
the caves ; but the presence of these 
is doubtless due to the fact, as local 
tradition asserts, that parties of 
fighting men took refuge here in 
more modern times. The hill affords 
an extensive view of the adjacent 
mountains, including Buko-zan in 
the Chichibu range, Fuji, and 
Asama-yama. The town of Matsu- 
yama (Inn, K6ji-ya) is only 13 cho 
distant. It contains a large Shinto 
temple to the gods of Inari, called 
the Yakyu Inari. 

9. — Konodai. 

Omnibuses ply constantly between 
Ryogoku-bashi and the Ichikawa 
ferry, 3 ri 25 cho (9 m.), a Treaty 
Limit boundary where passports 
have to be shown. Konodai, pro- 
perly Mama Konodai (Inn, Musa- 
shi-ya, close to the ferry), is the 
bluff on the opposite side of the 
Yedo-gawa, \ m. above the ferry, 
and used to be a favourite resort of 
holiday-makers from Tokyo. 

It was the site of a strong fortress held 
by Satomi Awa-no-Kami, from whom it 
was captured and razed to the ground by 
the powerful Hojo family of Odawara, in 
1564. 

A Military Academy for cadets of 
all branches of the service is now 
located here, detracting from the ad- 
vantages of Konodai as a place for 
picnics. The situation affords a 
pleasing view of the plain, with Fuji 
and the Oyama range in the back- 
ground. Pretty also is the view of 
the fleet of boats sailing up the 
river before a brisk breeze. The 
whole site is thickly overgrown 
with tress and rank vegetation ; 



122 



Route 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone. 



but a priest from the dilapidated 
monastery of Sonenji, which stands 
within the same enclosure, will act 
as guide and point out various 
objects of interest, including the 
tomb of Ogasawara Sadayori, the 
discoverer of the Bonin Islands. 
Afterwards, a visit should be paid 
to the temple of Kolidji in the near 
vicinity, noted for the richness of its 
maple tints in autumn. Down the 
steps on the hill-side, stands a 
shrine dedicated to a beautiful girl 
called Mama-no-Tekona, who, for 
reasons which tradition does not 
assign, drowned herself in the 
swamp close by. 

The story of Mama-no-Tekona was al- 
ready an aocient one in the 8th century. 
The unfortunate maiden is much prayed 
to by women for safe delivery in child- 
birth. 



ROUTE 6. 

The Hakone Disteict : Miyano- 
shita, Hakone. 

1. geneeal infoemation. 2. miya- 
noshita and neighbouehood. 
3. hakone and neighbouehood. 

1. — Geneeal Inpoemation. 

This route is specially recom- 
mended, as uniting charm of 
scenery, accessibility, and an un- 
usual degree of comfort. All 
tourists arriving at Yokohama are 
advised to devote a week to it, and 
if they have not so much time at 
their disposal, then to devote two 
or three days to a portion of it. 
Even should they be disinclined 
for walking and sightseeing, they 
will find no place more pleasant for 
idling in at all seasons than Miya- 
noshita. 

The word Hakone, it should be observed, 
though employed by us, as by all Euro- 
peans, to denote the village called by the 
Japanese Hakone-no-shukit , Hakone-no-eki , 



or Hakone-mura, is properly the general, 
name of the entire mountainous district 
lying at the neck of the peninsula of Izu, 
between the Bays of Odawara and Suru- 
ga. For this reason the Japanese talk of 
Miyanoshita, Kiga, etc., as being "in 
Hakone." The original name of Hakone 
Lake (now, however, used only in poetry) 
is Ashi-no-Umi, that is, the Sea of Reeds. 
Hence the name of the hot springs of 
Ashinoyn. The lake measures, in round 
numbers, If ri long, 4| ri round, and has 
a depth of 37 fathoms in its deepest part. 

The following are the heights of 
the chief villages and mountains 
mentioned in this route : — 

Ashinoyu t 2,870 feet. 

Dai-ga-take 3,500 ,, 

Dogashima 1,080 ,, 

Futago-yama 3,620 ,, 

Hakone 2,400 „ 

Higane (temple near 

Atami) 2,400 „ 

Kamiyama 4,770 ,, 

Kiga 1,400 „ 

Kintoki-zan 4,060 „ 

Kojigoku (Kowaki-dani). 2,100 ,, 

Koma-ga-take 4,500 „ 

Miyagino 1,500 ,, 

Miyanoshita 1,400 ,, 

Myojin-ga-take 3,880 „ 

Myojo-ga-take 3,080 ,, 

Ojigoku 3,466 „ 

Otome-tdge 3,333 „ 

Saijoji (Doryo-san) 1,240 „ 

Sengoku-hara 2,170 ,, 

Ten Province Pass .... 3,216 ,, 

Ubago 2,940 „ 

Yumoto 400 „ 

2. — Miyanoshita and Neighbor- 
hood. 

Miyanoshita is easily reached 
from Yokohama by the Tokaido 
Railway to Kozu station, 1J hr.; 
thence by tram, jinrikisha, or car- 
riage to Yumoto, 1 hr.; thence by 
jinrikisha (at least two men neces- 
sary) or on foot, for 1J ri up the 
valley of the Hayakawa to Miyano- 
shita, nearly 1 hr. by jinrikisha, 1J 
hr. on foot — say 4j hrs. for the 
whole journey, including stoppages. 
Prom Tokyo it is 1 hr. more, or 5£ 
hrs. in all. 



Way to Miyanoshita, 



128 



Team Itineeary along Plain. 

Kozu to : — Bi. Clio. M. 

Odawara 1 28 4-J 

Yumoto 2 10 5 J 

Total 4 2 10 



Walking or Jinrikisha Itinerary 
up the Hill. 

Yumoto to : — Bi. Cho. M. 

Tonosawa 6J \ 

Miyanoshita 1 16| 3£ 

{Kiga 9 \ 

Miyagino 5 J) 

Total 2 1 5 



At Kozu (Inn, Kozu-kwan), it is 
worth devoting a few minutes to 
walking out on the beach to look at 
the beautiful view of Odawara Bay, 
with to the r. the peninsula of Izu 
on whose coast Atami_ is situated, 
ahead the volcano of Oshima (Vries 
Island), and the islet of Enoshima to 
the 1. Turning round, one has a 
magnificent view of Fuji. The road 
from Kozu to Yumoto — the old T6- 
kaido — leads past (about 1 m.) the 
Shoto-en, an inn situated on the 
beach, with detached apartments 
and good bathing. It is patronised 
by the higher official class. Half- 
way we pass through the town of 

Odawara (Inn, Koise-ya), cele- 
brated in Japanese history as the 
scene of many bloody conflicts in 
feudal times. 

Odawara belonged successively to vari- 
ous families of Dahnyos, who dwelt in 
the castle which was not finally destroyed 
till the time of the late revolution. The 
most celebrated of these families were 
the Hojo, a younger branch of the family 
of " Regents," who ruled over Japan 
during the 13th century and the first 
three decades of the 14th. This younger 
branch, choosing Odawara as their capital 
in A.D. 1495, continued to reside there for 
five generations, namely, till 1590, when 
they were defeated and the power of their 
house broken for ever by the Taiko Hide- 
yoshi in the . battle of Ishikake-yama. 
Retiring to their castle, the various com- 
manding officers on the Hojo side could 
come to no agreement, as time wore on, 
as to whether it were better to await the 
onslaught of the enemy, or to sally forth 



themselves and offer battle. While they 
were still discussing this question in all 
its bearings, Hideyoshi made a sudden 
attack and captured the castle by a coup 
de main. Hence the proverbial saying, 
Odawara hybgi, that is, the Odawara Con- 
ference, which means endless talk result- 
ing in nothing. 

The tram-cars change horses op- 
posite the ruined walls of the castle. 
On leaving Odawara, the road 
enters the valley of the Hayakaiva 
near the mouth of that stream, 
which takes its origin in Lake 
Hakone. The two round summits 
seen almost constantly ahead are 
Futago-yama, or the Twin Moun- 
tains. The avenue to the r. of the 
tram road marks the Tokaido, 
which carriages and jinrikishas still 
follow. Near 

Yumoto (10 min. out of the vill.), 
is a cascade known as Tamadare 
no tahi. A small fee is charged 
for admittance. Yumoto boasts 
a large inn, called Fukuzumi. 
Foreigners obliged to break the 
journey are, however, advised to push 
on 6J cho further to the vill. of 

Tonosawa, where the Tamano- 
yu Hotel will be found a pleasanter 
abode, owing to the fact that Euro- 
pean food and beds are provided. 
There are also good hot springs. 
The white building, which strikes 
the eye on the hill opposite, is a 
Russian chapel. The mosaic wood- 
work (kiji-mono), which from Yu- 
moto onwards fills such a prominent 
place in every shop-window, is the 
specialty for which the whole 
Hakone district is noted. The 
hamlet more than half-way up from 
Yumoto to Miyanoshita is 

Ohirailai. On the r. side is a 
good wood-work shop, Watanabe, 
whose specialty is the fine bamboo 
basket-work of Shizuoka. 

Miyanoshita (Hotels, *Fuji-ya, in 
European style ; Nara-ya) is a 
pleasant resort for many reasons — 
the purity of the air, the excellence 
of the hotel accommodation, the 
numerous pretty walks both short 
and long, the plentiful supply of 
" chairs " and of specially large and 



124 



Route 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone. 



comfortable kagos for those who 
prefer being carried, and the deli- 
cious hot baths, which, containing 
but faint traces of salt and soda, 
may be used without medical advice. 
The upper portion of the vill. is 
called Sokokura. The principal 
short walks from Miyanoshita are: — 

1. To Xiga (distance, 9 cho, say 
J hr.) : — no climbing, view of fine 
gorge of the Jakotsu-gawa from 
bridge just below Sokokura, 

Jakotsu-gawa means literally " Stream 
of the Serpent's Bones." The name is 
given to this romantic gorge on account 
of some white stones found higher up, 
and popularly believed to be the bones of 
dead serpents. 

waterfalls, tame gold-fish to feed 
with cakes at the favourite Sengoku- 
ya tea-house. Kiga was formerly 
an agreeable summer resort, but has 
never recovered the destructive fire 
of 1892. Looking back from here, 
one sees the tea-house of Mi-harashi 
perched high up the steep hill- 
side. Paths lead up to it from 
the main road. Equally flat and 
pleasant road 5 cho further up the 
valley of the Hayakawa to Miyagino, 
a vill. built on both sides of the 
stream. 

2. To Dogasliima, a hamlet some 
few hundred yards below Miyano- 
shita, down a steep ravine. Here 
are a pretty cascade and a charm- 
ing villa, permission to visit which 
may sometimes be obtained through 
the proprietor of the Fujiya Hotel. 

3. Walk down the main road in 
the direction of Tonosawa to the 
toll-house (8 J cho), or on to Ollira- 
dai (17 cho). 

4. Climb half-way up Setigetl- 
yama, the wooded hill immediately 
at the back of the Japanese wing 
of the Fuji-ya Hotel. It is a steep 
pull of 20 min. or J hr. to the 
tea-shed, 650 ft. above the village, 
whence beautiful view of upper half 
of Fuji. This walk may be con- 
tinued along the ridge in the direc- 
tion of Asbinoyu. 

Somewhat longer (1 to 2 hrs.), 



less good walking, but very pic- 
turesque are : — 

5. To Kiga and Miyagino, as in 

No. 1 ; then cross the river and turn 
sharp to the r., walking home on 
the other side, and re-crossing to 
the Miyanoshita side at Dogashima. 
Guide indispensable. This, the 
most beautiful of all the walks near 
Miyanoshita, takes a good walker 
a little over 1 hr. 

6. Up to Kojigoku (Kowaki- 
dani), then down past the hamlet 
of Ninotaira to Miyagino and Kiga, 
whence home by the main road. 
This walk may be abridged by turn- 
ing to the r. before reaching Koji- 
goku, almost all the paths r. leading 
down ultimately to the Kiga road. 
Many persons elect to stay at Koji- 
goku rather than at Miyanoshita, 
as the former place is some 700 ft. 
higher, and consequently has cooler 
air. The Kaikiuatei Hotel offers 
European comforts and excellent 
baths. The 15 cho (1 m.) from Miya- 
noshita to Kojigoku is done on foot 
or in kago. 

The meaning of the name Kojigoku is 
Small Hell. It was given to the place in 
allusion to some small sulphur springs, 
which supply the hotel baths. In 1877, 
on the occasion of the visit of H. M. the 
Mikado, the name of Kojigoku was 
officially altered to KotcaH-dani, which 
means the Valley of the Lesser Boiling. 
But the older name is in common use. 

Good half-day's excursions are 
to:— 

7. Ojigokll, or Big Hell, alter- 
natively named Owaki-dani, i.e., the 
Valley of the Greater Boiling — dis- 
tance, a little under 2 ri to the top of 
the gorge. Neither name is a mis- j 
nomer. The whole gorge reeks 
with sulphurous fumes, vegetation 
decreases as one ascends higher, 
and the aspect of the scene becomes 
weird and desolate. It is advisable 
to keep to the path and tread care- 
fully after the guide, as more lives 

i than one have been sacrificed by a 
false step on the treacherous crust. 
The view from the top of the gorge 



Walks at Miyanoshita, Ashinoyu. 



125 



differs as widely in its charms from 
the scene of desolation just traversed 
as can well be imagined. In the cen- 
tre, Fuji towers up in perfect beauty. 
To the extreme r. is tooth-shaped 
Kintoki-zan, then the Otome-toge, 
the Nagao-toge, and to the 1. the more 
imposing slopes of Ashitaka. The 
summit of Kammuri-ga-take, which 
rises up immediately behind the 
sulphur springs, distinguishes itself 
by its graceful outline and by the 
dense forest covering its sides. The 
vegetation of this neighbourhood 
is remarkable, consisting as it does 
chiefly of the small box and asemi 
(Andromeda japonica). Ojigoku 
looks wildest on a gloomy day. 

8. Up Myojo-ga-take, or Muko- 
yama, the big grassy hill immediate- 
ly opposite Miyanoshita, on the 
left side of the stream. It is a 
walk of \\ hr. to the top, the path 
at first leading down through the 
vill. of Dogashima, there crossing 
the stream, and then turning con- 
siderably to the r., before turning 1. 
again along the crest of the hill. 
The view from the summit is magni- 
ficent. In the centre is Fuji, the 
depression immediately in front of 
which is the Otome-toge ; then to 
the r. Kintoki and_Myojin-ga-take, 
behind which rise Oyama and Tan- 
zawa ; in the plain the Sakawa- 
gawa, and behind it the low range 
of Sogayama, in which a red 
treeless patch marks the Kozu 
railway station. The town of Oda- 
wara can be seen by walking back a 
few yards ; then the sea with 
Oshima, and to the r. the low slope 
of Ishikake-yama ; then Futago- 
yama, Koma-ga-take, Kamiyama, 
and Dai-ga-take. The blear spot 
on Kamiyama is the solfatara of 
S6-on Jigoku. Still further to the 
r., in the blue distance, is Ashitaka- 
yama. The best time to view this 
scene is at sunrise or at sunset. The 
coolie should therefore carry a lan- 
tern, either for the first or for the 
last portion of the walk. Those who 
are willing to face a very stony path 
for the sake of continued beautiful 



views, are advised to return via 
Miyagino and Kiga. The whole 
expedition will then occupy 3 J hrs., 
including a short rest at the sum- 
mit. 

The following are whole day. ex- 
cursions : — 

9. To Ashinoyu and Hakone (1 ri 
8 did to Ashinoyu, thence a little over 
1 ri on to Hakone, say 5J m. altoge- 
ther). Ashinoyu (Inns, Matsuzaka- 
ya, foreign food and beds ; Kinokuni- 
ya) is famous for its sulphur springs, 
whose efficacy in the treatment of 
skin diseases and rheumatism at- 
tracts crowds of Japanese patients 
and not a few foreigners, despite 
the bleak uninviting appearance of 
the locality. Ashinoyu is very cool 
in summer, owing to its height, but 
pays for this advantage by being 
frequently enveloped in mist. The 
road thither, about half of which is 
a stiff pull, leads close by Kojigoku. 
Just before reaching Ashinoyu, to- 
wards the end of a steep climb 
called the Nana-wawari, or Seven 
Turnings, the guide should be told 
to lead over a small eminence known 
as Benten-yama. It is not at all 
out of the way, and offers a splendid 
view — Odawara Bay, the peninsula 
of Misaki with Enoshima like a 
little knob on the coast ; and be- 
yond that, Tokyo Bay and the blue 
outline of the provinces of Kazusa 
and Boshu, which divide Tokyo 
Bay from the Pacific. The principal 
mountain to the 1. is Oshima, 
bluntly triangular in shape. Turn- 
ing round, one has Futago to the 
1., Koma-ga-take and Kamiyama 
to the right. Ashinoyu itself Las no 
view, as it lies in a marshy depres- 
sion, though on the top of a hill. 

[On a hill 8 did, say J hr., beyond 
Ashinoyu, at a place called 
Yu-no-hana-zawa, a bathing 
establishment with very strong 
sulphur baths was opened a few 
years ago. It commands a 
fine view, similar to that from 
Benten-yama. This walk, and 
that along the flat in the direc- 



126 



Route 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone. 



tion of Hakone, are the two 
best for invalids staying at 
Ashinoyu. From Yu-no-hana- 
zawa it is a rough climb of 1J 
hr. up Kamiyama, the central 
and highest peak of the Hakone 
range, the way — we purposely 
say " way," for there is not 
always a path — lying first 
among long grass, and then 
through scrub. An old crater 
is traversed before reaching the 
summit, which commands a 
grander panorama than any 
other in this district. Fuji 
towers to the N.W., flanked 
by the snowy summits of 
the Koshu mountains to the 
r. and the Shinshu moun- 
tains to the 1. Further 1. is 
Ashitaka-yama, then the blue 
Gulf of Suruga with its line of 
surf, and the narrow pine-clad 
promontory of Mio-no-Matsu- 
bara shutting in Shimizu Bay. 
Next comes the peninsula of 
Izu with the Amagi-san range, 
Hatsushima near Atami, smok- 
ing Vries Island and the smaller 
islands of Toshima, Niijima, 
etc., forming with it and with 
more distant Hachijo the 
" Seven Isles of Izu ; " Sagami 
Bay, with the town of Oda- 
wara, the River Sakawa, Eno- 
shima, and the promontory 
of Misaki, with the further 
promontory of Sunosaki in 
Boshu behind ; the plain that 
stretches towards Fujisawa, 
Oyama, and the Tanzawa range. 
All the summits of the Hakone 
range are grouped in the nearer 
distance at the spectator's feet. 
Between him and Fuji is a 
ridge, the three lowest points 
of which are the Otome-toge, 
Nagao-toge, and Fukara-toge. 
The grassy summit on the other 
(southern) side is Koma-ga-take 
with Futago - yama behind, 
while Tatko-yama and Ishikake- 
yama stretch behind that again 
like a long wall. Miyanoshita, 
too, is visible on this side. 



Taiko-yama, or Taiko-michi, be it 
observed, takes its name from a 
tradition to the effect that the Taikd 
Hideyoshi led his troops along it 
when going to fight the battle of 
Ishikake-yama. The way was shown 
him — so it is alleged— by a hunter, 
whom he thereupon killed, in order 
to make sure that the enemy should 
not profit by the poor fellow's local 
knowledge. 

The descent from the summit 
of Kamiyama to Yu-no-hana- 
zawa will take f hr. The 
whole expedition from Miyano- 
shita and back may be done in 
5 hrs. Its roughness makes it 
unsuitable for ladies, and there 
is a short bit, just beyond 
Yu-no-hana-zawa, where people 
with weak heads are apt to feel 
dizzy.] 

After leaving Ashinoyu, the path 
is at first level, and then descends 
most of the way to Hakone. The 
first object of interest passed is, 
1., a set of three small stone monu- 
ments dedicated to the Soga Brethren 
and to Tora Gozen (see p. 64). A 
few yards further on, to the 1. and 
half-hidden among the grass and 
bushes, is a block of andesite rock 
well-worth pausing a moment to 
inspect, as it is covered with Bud- 
dhist images carved in relief. These 
images are known as the Ni-ju-go 
Bosatsu, that is, the Twenty-rive 
Bosatsu ; but which of the many 
thousands of these divine beings 
they are intended to represent, is 
uncertain. The carving apparently 
dates only from A.D. 1293, though 
attributed to Kobo Daishi. 

Two or three of the images at the top 
are unfinished. According to a legend 
still credited by the country-folk, Kobo 
Daishi had carved the other twenty-two 
during a single night ; but as day broke 
before the completion of his labours, the 
rest perforce remained incomplete. 

But the chief curiosity on the road 
is the large Image of Jizo (Rokudo 
no Jizo) carved in relief on a block 
of andesite, and ranking among the 
triumphs of the Japanese chisel. 
Tradition has it that the great 



Futago-yama . Koma-ga-take. 



127 



Buddhist saint, KoboDaishi, carved 
this image also in a single night. A 
festival in its honour is celebrated 
yearly on the 23rd August. 

[Some way beyond this large 
image, a path up Futago-yama 

( Uwa-Futago) 

Futago-yama, lit. Twin Mountain, 
is a favourite designation for such 
double peaks. 

turns of! to the 1. The ascent, 
which will take a good walker 
20 min. or ^ hr. from this 
spot, is worth making — per- 
haps most conveniently as a 
separate walk from Miyanoshita 
or from Hakone — the ancient 
crater (now thickly carpeted 
with moss and overgrown with 
bushes and trees) being re- 
markably extensive, and the 
view from its upper rim, which 
is clear of wood, being very 
fine. The chief points seen are 
almost the same as those 
enumerated above under the 
heading of Kamiyama. It is 
possible to ascend the further 
summit of Futago-yama (Shi- 
ta-Futago) ; but the labour is 
not repaid, as the summit it- 
self is covered with trees and 
bushes that shut out all view. 
Koma-ga-take, also, may be 
ascended r. from near the large 
image of Jizo, but is rather less 
worth climbing than Futago- 
yama or Kamiyama, as the 
plateau-like nature of the top 
makes it impossible to take in 
the whole of the view from any 
single spot. It has, however, 
the advantage of showing Fuji 
from peak to base. Time, 1 \ hr. 

A boulder at the top of Koma-ga- 
take is the subject of a curious 
superstition. Tt is believed that the 
water contained in the hollows of 
this boulder never runs dry ; and the 
peasants of the surrounding country 
make pilgrimages to it in seasons of 
drought, in order to obtain rain by 
scattering the drops about to the 
four winds. But if any of the water 
be taken down the mountain, the re- 
sult is a typhoon. 



Koma-ga-take may also be as- 
cended from a point nearer the 
vill. of Ashinoyu ; but the climb 
is then considerably steeper.] 

The two meres (Shoni-ga-ike and 
Nazuna-ga-ike), r. and 1. on the 
way between Ashinoyu and Hakone, 
are the remains of ancient craters. 
Shoni-ga-ike generally offers fair 
skating in the winter. The first 
hamlet reached on getting to the 
lake is Moto-Hakone, 15 cho this 
side of Hakone itself. The Tsuji- 
ya Inn, pleasantly situated on the 
border of the lake, commands the 
best view of Fuji to be had in this 
neighbourhood. 

Instead of returning to Miyano- 
shita by the way one has come, it 
will be found pleasant in warm 
weather to take a boat from Hako- 
ne (or from Moto-Hakone, which 
shortens the expedition by one 
mile) to a spot called Shin-yu at 
the far-end of the lake — Umi-jiri, 
lit. "sea-end," as it is also termed, 
where was formerly a tea-house now 
burnt down. Alighting there, we go 
past the little bathing village of 
Ubago, up_ the spur separating the 
lake from Ojigoku, and return home 
to Miyanoshita by the Ojigoku way, 
as in walk No. 7. Those who have 
done the expedition, not on foot, but 
in chairs or kagos, can take these 
conveyances with them in the boat, 
and can be carried most of the way 
home from Shin-yu. It is only 
necessary to walk over the danger- 
ous portion of the Ojigoku gorge. 
Instead of taking a boat, some may 
prefer to follow the path along the 
edge of the lake. The distances, if 
this extension be adopted, are : 

Miyanoshita to : — Bi. Cho. M. 

Ashinoyu 1 8 3 

Moto-Hakone 23 1£ 

Hakone 15 1 

Umijiri 1 18 3f 

Ubago 12 f 

Ojigoku 8 i 

Miyanoshita 1 34 4f 

Total 6 10 15J 



128 



Route 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone. 



10. Up half-way to Ashinoyu, as 
far as two little tea-houses beside a 
brook, known as Ike-jiri ; thence 
sharp 1. for 30 did down a steep and 
stony but picturesque path, which 
passes through the vill. of Kata on 
the old Tokaido. The return to 
Miyanoshita is _made via Yumoto, 
Tonosawa, and Ohiradai— total dis- 
tance, about 5 ri. The first portion 
of the descent is called Takizaka, 
or Cascade Hill, on account of a 
pretty cascade seen to the r. about 
two-thirds of the way down. There 
is another path to Hata 1., just be- 
fore the final climb to Ashinoyu, 
which joins the Takizaka path ; but 
this makes the walk some 10 did 
longer. 

11. To the top of the Otome- 
toge, or Maiden's Pass, distant 2% ri 
(6 m.), whence can be gained the 
nearest and most complete view of 
Fuji and of the plain at its base. 
The path is not steep, excepting 
some 8 did in the middle up a hill 
called the Usui-tdge (by foreigners, 
" the Corkscrew "), and 11 did at 
the end. It is possible, however, 
except for unusually heavy persons, 
to be carried the whole way in a 
chair. The path leads through 
Kiga and Miyagino, crosses the 
Hayakawa, and continues up the 
valley to the vill. of 

Sengoku, noted for its cattle- 
farm, extensive for Japan, whence 
the Miyanoshita hotels are supplied 
with milk and butter. 

[From Sengoku, it is possible to 
ascend Kintoki-zan. The dis- 
tance to the summit is estimat- 
ed at 25 did, and the climb is 
very steep in some places. The 
people of the surrounding coun- 
try-side ascend Kintoki - zan 
annually on the 17th day of 
the 3rd moon, old style, on 
which day the festival of I-no- 
hana (" the boar's nose ") is held 
on the summit. The name of 
the mountain is derived from 
that of Kintoki, a mighty hunter 
of legendary fame.] 



The climb up the Otome-t5ge 
commences shortly after leaving 
Sengoku. The labour it entails is 
amply repaid by the view from the 
gap forming the pass. Persons with 
sufficient time will do well to climb 
up the hill to the r., from whose top 
are visible the snow-clad peaks of 
the mountains of Koshu and Shin- 
shu. It is also possible to walk 1. 
along the ridge to the Nagao-tdge, 
the first J hr's. scramble through 
difficult scrub being rewarded by a 
glorious view from the open summit 
of the Nagao-dai. In this case the 
return is made via the farm. — To 
travel out to Miyanoshita via the 
Otome-toge, is a pleasant alternative 
route for those who intend visiting 
this district a second time. Instead 
of alighting at Kozu, one continues 
in the train as far as the station of 
Gotemba, situated in the plain at 
Fuji's base. From Gotemba it is 2 J 
ri to the top of the pass. The first 
portion of the way may be done by 
jinrikisha. Gotemba is also the 
nearest station for travellers coming 
up the Tokaido Kailway from Kobe, 
bound for Miyanoshita. But if they 
have much luggage or object to 
walking, they should go on to Kozu, 
whence the facilities for proceeding 
to Miyanoshita are greater. 

12. To the vill. of Sengoku, as in 
the preceding walk ; there cross the 
river to the deeply wooded hill of 
I)ai-ga-take ; then through the 
hamlet of Yuba which has mineral 
springs, again crossing and re-cross- 
ing the river to Miyagino and Kiga, 
and so home. The park-like 
scenery about Dai-ga-take and Yuba 
differs from that of the other 
walks in the neighbourhood of 
Miyanoshita, and offers much plea- 
sant shade besides delightful dis- 
tant glimpses. Path, fairly good. 
Time, 2 hrs. from Sengoku, or 4 
hrs. altogether. 

13. To the Buddhist temple of 
Saijftji, sometimes called Ddryo- 
san, distant 3 ri. Though placed 
last, this expedition is perhaps the 
most delightful of all ; for it alone 



Saijoji (Dor yd -san). 



129 



includes architectural beauties as 
well as beauties of nature. The 
path, after passing through Kiga 
and Miyagino and crossing the 
Hayakawa, leads up to a grassy 
plateau near the summit of Mydjin- 
ga-take, — not to be confounded with 
the Myojo-ga-take of Walk No. 8. 
(Though kagos go this way, horses 
cannot. Riders therefore have to 
go round via Yagura-zaioa, which 
increases the distance by about a 
couple of miles.) Tell the guide to 
lead to the spot, not far out of the 
way, whence may best be seen the 
superb view : — on the one hand, the 
sCa, with Vries Island, the pen- 
insula of Boshu, and the nearer 
peninsula of Sagami, the plain of 
Sagami watered by the rivers Ba- 
nyu and Sakawa, the mountain 
ranges of Oyama, Kurakake, Tan- 
zawa, Sobutsu, Yagura-ga-take, and 
many of the mountains of Koshu ; 
on the other, the wooded heights 
beyond the Hakone pass which 
dwarf the nearer ridge of Takanosu ; 
then turning towards the r., double- 
crested Futago-yama, Koma-ga- 
take, Kammuri-ga-take, and the 
long ridge to the W. of Hakone 
which terminates in Kintoki-zan ; 
and above and beyond all, the 
gigantic cone of Fuji. From this 
point it is a descent, Saijoji being- 
even lower down on the far side of 
the mountain than Miyanoshita is 
on the near. Before reaching it, 
the open moorland of the hillside is 
exchanged for a magnificent forest 
of pines and cryptomerias, with an 
undergrowth of beautiful flowering 
shrubs — deutzia, azalea, pyrus ja- 
ponica, aucuba, etc., according to 
the season. 

The monastery of Saijoji, which be- 
longs to the Soto sect of Buddhists, was 
founded by a hermit named Ryoan, who 
died A.D. 1401 ; but it owes its special 
reputation for sanctity to his successor 
Doryo, who was supposed to be one of 
the numerous incarnations of Kwannon, 
the Goddess of Mercy. 

To Doryo's memory is dedicated 
the finest of all the shrines which 
collectively constitute Saijoji. It is 



called Myokwaku-do, and stands at 
the top of a flight of steps to the 1. 
The links of the chain which divides 
the staircase into two parts are 
often bound with scraps of paper, 
on which pilgrims have written 
their prayers. The 'fan of feathers, 
which forms so striking a feature 
of the ornamentation, was Doryo's 
crest. The winged figures with 
large noses represent goblins (tengu), 
who dwell in the mountains. Do 
not fail to notice the elaborate wood 
carvings. Most of the large up- 
right stones of irregular shape in- 
scribed with characters in red or 
gold, which are scattered about the 
grounds, are memorials of persons 
who have at various times contri- 
buted towards the repairs of the 
temple. So is the hideous grey 
railing, by which more modern 
piety has endeavoured to mar the 
perfect taste and beauty of the 
scene. It is generally most con- 
venient to lunch at Saijoji al fresco 
in one of the more retired portions 
of the temple grounds. There are 
also some tea-sheds some way down 
the avenue beyond the temple. 

Instead of returning to Miyano- 
shita the way one came, it is far 
better to arrange at the hotel, be- 
fore starting, to have jinrikishas in 
waiting at the end of the stately 
avenue of cryptomerias leading from 
the temple down for 28 chd to the 
vill. of Sekimoto (tea-house, Saka-ya). 
After the fatigues of the walk, one 
can thence bowl along merrily 
through the pleasant valley of 
the Sakawa-gawa, skirting Odawara, 
and thence proceeding up the new 
road to Tonosawa and Miyanoshita, 
either in the same jinrikisha or on 
foot. The total distance of the trip, 
as thus modified, is 10 ri 25 did 
(26 miles) ; but the 3 ri in jinrikisha 
from Sekimoto to Odawara, and 
the possibility of doing all the 
remainder of the way up to Miya- 
noshita by jinrikisha, prevent it 
from being too fatiguing. — It is 
also possible to take Saijoji on the 
way back from Miyanoshita to 



130 



Route 6.— Miyanoshita and HaJcone. 



Yokohama, by joining the Tokaido 
Railway at Matsuda, the nearest 
station to the temple. The distance 
from the end of the avenue just 
mentioned, where jinrikishas may 
be obtained, is under 2 ri. From 6 
to 7 hrs. should be allowed for the 
whole expedition including a stop- 
page for lunch. 

3. — Hakone and Neighbouehood. 

Hakone is most quickly reached 
from Yokohama and Tokyo by the 
Tokaido Railway as far as Kozu, 
thence by train to Yumoto, and on 
foot or in kago along the old To- 
kaido up the Hakone pass via Hata, 
the whole journey taking about 6 
hrs. from Yokohama, or 7 hrs. from 
Tokyo. The way up the Hakone 
pass through the forest is most 
picturesque, but the road is stony 
beyond description. An alternative 
plan is to continue on in the train as 
far as Sano, whence walk to Hakone 
by the Izu-Sano path, joining the 
Tokaido at its highest point, — about 
10 m. Many residents prefer to tra- 
vel via Miyanoshita where they spend 
the night, and then push on next 
morning by Walk No. 9 (see p. 125). 

The respective merits of Hakone 
and Miyanoshita as summer resorts 
form a constant subject of debate 
between the partisans of the two 
places. Miyanoshita has the ad- 
vantage of hot springs, a drier air, 
easier access, and a hotel in Euro- 
pean style. Hakone is cooler, being 
1,000 ft. higher, it affords more 
privacy, and has a picturesque lake 
where one may bathe and boat and 
go on water picnics. The view of 
Fuji, too, and the reflection of Fuji 
in the lake [Hakone no Saka-Fuji) 
form a great attraction. In winter 
the advantage is altogether on Miya- 
noshita's side. No one thinks of 
staying at Hakone during that 
season, whereas Miyanoshita is 
equally pleasant all the year round. 
Indeed, many prefer the early 
winter there to the summer, as the 
air is almost always clear in winter, 
and walking consequently more 



enjoyable. The chief inn at Hakone 
is the Hafu-ya, on the lake. But 
as nearly every house in the village 
is to let during the summer season, 
the plan usually followed by families 
from Yokohama is to hire a separate 
residence by the month, bring their 
own servants with them, and set up 
housekeeping. Foreign furniture 
of a rough kind is generally obtain- 
able, as also provisions during the 
summer season. 

Some of the most enjoyable ex- 
peditions from Hakone are the 
same as those already described 
from Miyanoshita, — for instance, 
those to Ojigoku, to Ashinoyu, 
up Futago-yama, etc. The follow- 
ing may also be recommended : — 

1. The temple of GrOngeil. The 
way leads out of the N. end of the 
village, under an avenue of fine 
cryptomerias that line the Tokai- 
do. A flight of steps will be seen r., 
leading to a small shed whence 
there is a charming view. The 
village formerly extended to this 
place. Here also stood the old 
Barrier {Hakone no seki) and guard- 
house, where all travellers were 
challenged and required to show 
their passports. The barrier was 
removed in 1871, but part of the 
stone-work still remains. 

Kaempfer, who parsed this way on 
Sunday, the 11th March, 1691, writes of 
this guard-house as follows : — " We came 
to the Imperial guard at the end of the 
village, where all the Japanese came out 
of their Norimons and Cangos, and those 
on horseback alighted from their horses, 
presenting themselves very respectfully 
and bareheaded, to be search' d, which 
however was done but slightly. If there 
be any the least suspicion of a woman, 
disguis'd in man's cloaths, they must 
be more narrowly search'd, with this 
difference however, that in this case, they 
are examin'd by women. Private persons 
going up to Jedo, must show their Pass- 
ports at this place, otherwise they are 
kept under arrest for three days, before 
they are permitted to pursue their 
journey." 

Following along the avenue, we 
soon come 1. to an Imperial Summer 
Palace (Rikyu), not accessible to 
the public. The next point in the 



Walks from Hakonet 



131 



*oad is the Tsuji-ya inn, command- 
ing the best view of Fuji to be had 
^anywhere on the shores of the lake. 
A little further on, we pass under a 
•stone torii and enter the hamlet of 
Moto Hakone. We then turn slight- 
ly to the L, passing under a red 
torii, by the side of which stands a 
wooden shed containing two iron 
rice-boilers said to have been used 
by Yoritomo on his hunting expedi- 
tions. The road here skirts the 
lake, soon bringing us to a charm- 
ing vista as we ascend to the foot of 
the temple steps. On the 1., just 
before passing through the torii, 
stands the custodian's house, where 
Yoritomo's sword and other interest- 
ing relics are shown. On the 1., 
half-way up, is a shrine dedicat- 
ed to the Soga Brethren. The 
main temple contains votive pic- 
tures representing these Brethren, 
the Gods of Luck, Yoritomo's horse, 
etc. The walk back may be varied 
by taking a wide turning to the 1. 
about the middle of Moto Hakone, 
going up the stone steps nearly as 
far as the torii, and then taking a 
turn to the 1. which is the Sliindd, 
or New Road, to Ashinoyu: After 
following this for about J m., we 
strike r. the old path which leads 
to the Tokaido. The pass above 
the torii commands the view so 
often seen in photographs. 

2. Walk to the End 6f the Lake. 
— At the entrance to the avenue 
leading to the temple of Gongen, a 
path will be seen 1. lower down, by 
following which a walk of 5 miles 
can be taken to Umijiri, as the N. 
end of the lake is called. Those 
going by boat (1 hr.) will find that 
the shadow of the large trees over- 
hanging the lake r., shortly before 
reaching Umijiri, affords a nice spot 
for a water picnic. 

3. Along the Siikuino-gawa.-— 
This is a pleasant but rather rough 
walk. The stream has to be perpe- 
tually crossed and re-crossed, and 
sometimes wading is unavoidable. 
The path finally leads out near the 
▼ill. of Hata, where kagos can be ob- 



tained for the return via the stony 
Hakone Pass. At the beginning of 
the valley, a path to the r. leads to 
Yoshihama on the coast. It affords 
pretty peeps of Fuji and the lake, 
but the high grass intercepts the 
view from the top. 

4. Walks in the direction of 
Atatni. — Several pleasant walks can 
be taken in the direction of the Ten 
Province Pass and Atami, notably 
one up the slope of Okoma-yama 
and over Kazakoshi-yama, to the 
highest point of the Tokaido, where, 
on a little plateau, the boundary 
post between the provinces of Saga- 
mi and Izu is placed ; and back to 
Hakone by the Tokaido. While 
crossing the plateau, there is a fine 
view of the lake, the mountains 
surrounding it, and Fuji beyond, 
with to the S. the Bay of Suruga, 
the promontory of Izu, the towns 
dotting the Tokaido, Ashitaka- 
yama, the Fujikawa far away in 
the distance like a streak of silver, 
and still further the long point of 
Omae-zaki stretching out into the 
ocean. Distance about 3^ m. 

Another walk in the same general 
direction is past the pond called 
Numa-ga-ike, then over a little ridge 
separating it from another pond or 
swamp on the Suruga side, called 
Otama-ga-ike, and on up the moun- 
tain slope to a gap, where a turn to 
the 1. should be taken up through 
the grass to the survey post. The 
summit affords an extensive view. 

But of all walks in this direction, 
the most delightful is that to the 
Ten Province Pass {Jikkoku-toge 
or Hig cine- tog e). Those intending 
to picnic there should, however, 
take water with them, as none is to 
be obtained on the way. The climb 
is for the most part easy enough, and 
the panorama from the summit, es- 
pecially on a fine day in early winter, 
something never to be forgotten. 
The top of the ridge, which is mark- 
ed by a stone known as the Ten Pro- 
vince Stone, looks down on the pro- 
vinces of Izu, Suruga, Totorni, 
Koshu, Kotsuke, Musashi, Shimosa, 



132 



Route 6. — Miyanosliita and Hakone. 



Kazusa, Boshu, and Saganii. Bays, 
peninsulas, islands, mountain- 
ranges, lie spread out in entrancing 
variety of form and colour, Fuji 
towering up magnificently above 
all the rest. The distance from 
Hakone is locally estimated at 5 ri, 
but must be less, as it can easily 
be done in 2J hrs. 

[A steep descent of a little over 
3 m. leads from the top down 
to Atami. There is also a path 
from the top to the hamlet of 
Iztt-san, distant 1 ri.] 

5. Hirahama on the lake. — A 
short walk may be taken from the 
S. end of the village to the 
foot of the Hakone Pass, where 
there is a path leading to the 
shore of the lake. After skirting 
the latter, the way leads over a 
small hill to the next bay, called 
Hirahama. Should the water be too 
high, Hirahama may be reached 
by the track over Hatahiki-yama. 

6. Umidaira- — This is the pla- 
teau rising above the S.W. shore 
of the lake, from which is obtain- 
ed an extensive and beautiful 
view, embracing many of the points 
seen from the Ten Province Pass. 
Time, about 2 hrs. A track leads 
down through the grass to a little 
bay on the lake near the Hiraishi, 
or Flat Stone, whence Hakone can 
be easily reached by boat, which 
should be ordered in advance. 

7. The Subterranean Water- 
Course and the Fnkara Pass. — The 
Fukara Pass is the most southerly 
of three that lead from the end of 
Lake Hakone to Fuji, the other 
two being the Nagao Pass and the 
Otome Pass. The first stage on 
the way to all three from Hakone 
is by boat nearly to the end of the 
lake. Close to the spot on the 
shore where the ascent of the 
Fukara Pass begins, is a tunnel 
(suimon), through which a portion 
of the waters of the lake is carried 
to several villages on the other 
side of the mountain, serving to 
irrigate their rice-fields, and then 



flowing on to form the waterfalls of 
Sano. 

This subterranean channel is said to be- 
entirely artificial, the local account being 
that it was pierced by two brothers, who 
bored through the mountain from op- 
posite sides until they met in the middle. 

The walk up the pass takes 20 
min. The exit of the tunnel (u?ni 
no ana) may be easily reached from 
the top of the pass, the whole 
expedition from the boat and back 
again taking about 2 hrs. There 
is some climbing and scrambling to 
be done, bat the paths are on the 
whole fairly good. 

8. The Nagao Pass. — This lies 
1 ri 7 cho from Umijiri. The 
way leads first across the Haya- 
kawa, the natural outlet of the 
lake, which later on flows past 
Miyanoshita ; then along a broad 
level cinder path to the foot of 
the pass, and finally by an easy 
climb of 12J cho to the top. The 
gap at the summit of the pass com- 
mands a complete view of Fuji from 
base to peak. On looking back, 
the eye sweeps across the plain of 
Sengoku-hara and over the w T aters 
of Hakone Lake. Kammuri-ga-take 
is also seen to advantage, and on its 
slope can be_ distinctly traced the sol- 
fataras of Ojigoku. A more exten- 
sive and beautiful view is, however, 
obtained by ascending the hill to the 
1. of the pass. From this summit, 
not only Fuji, but the promontory 
of Izu, with Amagi-san, the whole 
of the fertile plain stretching away 
to the r. of the town of Mishima, 
the rugged peaks of Ashitaka, the 
course of the Fujikawa, the pro- 
montory of Mio-no-Matsubara, Ku- 
no-zan, and the full sweep of Suruga 
Bay lie at the spectator's feet. 



Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu, 



133 



ROUTE 7. 

The Peninsula of Izu. 

1. atami and neighboubhood. 
2. hakone to shuzenji and 
shimoda. 3. from numazu to 
shimoda and atami by the coast. 
4. yugashima to atami. 

1. — Atami and Neighbourhood. 

At&mi (*Higuchi Hotel, foreign 
style ; Sagami-ya, Fuji-ya, and 
many others) is a favourite winter 
resort of the Japanese higher offi- 
cial class, as it is protected by 
high hills from the northerly and 
westerly winds which prevail at 
that season over Japan. The whole 
stretch of coast from Kozu on the 
Tokaido Railway to Atami partakes 
more or less of the same advantage ; 
and the soft air, the orange-groves, 
and the deep blue sea of Odawara 
Bay, combine to make of this dis- 
trict the Riviera of Japan. 

Atami is most easily reached 
from Yokohama by the Tokaido 
Railway as far as Kozu, lj hr., 
and then by jinrikisha for the rest 
of the way, nearly 5 hrs. along the 
coast. 

Itinerary. 

KOZU to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Odawara 1 28 4| 

Hayakawa 10 f 

Nebukawa 1 20 3| 

Enoura 1 12 3J 

Yoshihama 1 32 4J 

Izu-san 2 12 5f 

ATAMI 18 1| 

Total 9 24 23J 

The road is delightfully pictur- 
esque and representatively Japa- 
nese, leading first under an ancient 
avenue most of the way to Oda- 
wara, and thence up and down 
along the coast, with ever-changing 



views of sea and land and of Vries 
Island smoking in the distance. 
The little peninsula whose neck is 
crossed about half-way, is called 
Cape Manazuru. 

Travellers approaching Atami 
from the Kyoto side may find it a 
convenient saviDg of time to alight 
at Numazu station, and thence to 
proceed to Atami over the hills, — a 
pretty walk of about 5 hrs. ; road 
practicable also, except after heavy 
rain, for jinrikishas with two men. 
The distance is estimated at 7 ri. 
From the town of Mishima to Atami 
is somewhat shorter. During most 
of the way up, a fine near view is 
obtained of Fuji, with to the r. 
Amagi-san and the lower ranges of 
the peninsula of Izu, and in front 
the Bay of Numazu at Fuji's base. 
The view from the top of the ridge 
is rather disappointing. 

A third way, much to be recom- 
mended to good walkers, is that 
from Miyanoshita via Ashinoyu to 
Hakone (see p. 125), and thence 
over the hills by the Ten Province 
Pass (see p. 131) with its incom- 
parable view. The ascent is not 
very steep, but the descent on the 
Atami side is short and abrupt. 
The total distance from Miyano- 
shita to Atami by this way is be- 
tween 6 and 7 ri. 

Fourthly and lastly, Atami may 
be reached by small steamer from 
Kozu, touching at Odawara and 
Manazuru.- It is possible that some 
eccentric persons may prefer this 
means of approaching it. 

The curiosity for which Atarni 
is noted is its geyser (Oyu), which 
breaks out once in every four hours 
in the middle of the town. It ori- 
ginally shot straight up into the 
air, but is now partially enclosed, 
and an inhalation house (Kyiiki- 
kwan) has been erected by the au- 
thorities for patients suffering 
from affections of the throat and 
lungs, the salt in which the steam 
of the geyser is rich being benefi- 
cial in such cases. The handsome 



134 



Boute 7. — Peninsula of Izu. 



house close behind the Kyuki- 
kwan, on the other side of the 
small creek which flows through the 
town, is a villa formerly belonging 
to the millionaire, Mr. Iwasaki, and 
now the property of His Imperial 
Highness, the Grown Prince. The 
chief productions of Atami are a 
beautifully delicate kind of paper, 
called gampishi, literally, "wild- 
goose skin paper," and an excellent 
sweetmeat called ame. 

The walks to be recommended 
from Atami are : — 

1. To the grove of EJnomiya, a 
few ruin, distant from the hotels. 
At the far end of this grove, are 
some of the finest camphor trees 
{kusunoki) in Japan. 

2. To Uomi, the hut visible high 
up on the cliff that shuts in Ata- 
mi Bay to the S. It is a climb 
of some 20 min., but the lovely view 
from the top amply repays the 
trouble. The name Uomi, lit. "fish- 
outlook," refers to the use to which 
this post of observation is put. 
When a school of bonitos is expect- 
ed — and they frequently visit the 
bay in enormous numbers — a man 
stands on this eminence, whence he 
can see clearly down to a great 
depth in the water, and makes signs 
to the fishermen below, indicating 
to them the direction in which it 
will be best to turn. 

3. To the hot springs of IziJ-san, 
\ ri. They are situated on the rock 
below the highway, in a manner 
resembling swallow's' nests. 

4. To Bnieaiji, a pretty park. 
This is a pleasant level walk of less 
than 1 ri. 

5. To Tosawa, i hr. climb half- 
way up Higane-san to a beautiful 
grove of trees. There one may turn 
to the r., and come back by way of 
the vill. of Izu-san. (This vill. is not 
below the highway, as are the hot 
springs of Izu-san, mentioned in 
No. 3.) 

6. To the little port of Ajiro, a 
steep but very pretty walk over the 
hills, returning, if preferred, by 



boat. The walk takes about 2 \ hrs. r 
the return by sea less. Ajiro, which 
lies at the S. end of a beautiful bay, 
can also be reached from Atami by 
small coasting steamer. It will be 
found best to lunch at the Shi?nizu- 
ya Inn, situated at the point where 
the Shimoda road branches off r. 
over the Taka-toge, and having 
pleasant rooms overlooking the bay. 
The vill. itself offers no attractions. 
The following are pleasant all day 
expeditions : — 

7. To the small island of Hatsn- 
sllima, thence to Ajiro, on to a 
beautiful stretch of coast known as 
Nishiki-ura, and so home. Those 
who like the sea will find this a 
charming boating excursion on a 
calm day. Nishiki-ura boasts some- 
caves. 

8. Up Higane-san, and down a 
steep narrow gorge r. from the 
temple there to the hot springs of 
Yugawara ; thence back (by jinriki- 
sha, if preferred) via Yoshihama on 
the Atami main road. 

9. By boat to It© (Wada), 5 ri 
28 cho byroad, but shorter by water, 
and thence via the baths of Matsu- 
bara {Inn, Maeda-ya), 

Both. Wada and Matsubara form part 
of a cluster of hamlets collectively known 
as Ito, and noted for their hot mineral 
waters- The other hamlets of the group 
are Yukawa, Take-no-uchi, and Arai. 

where a guide should be procured, to 
Omuro-zan, an extinct volcano re- 
sembling Fuji in shape, and there- 
fore often called by the country-folk 
Fuji no Imoto, " Fuji's Younger 
Sister," or Sengen-yama (Sengen is 
an alternative name of the Goddess 
of Fuji). About 2 hrs. are required 
to walk from Matsubara to the base, 
which is half-way between the 
hamlets of Ikemura and Totari ; 
thence it is 20 min. more to the 
summit, from which there is a fine 
panorama. The crater is about 250 
yds. in diameter, and some 80 ft. 
deep, the bottom being covered with 
scattered blocks of lava. To the 
E. of this volcano stands a smaller 
one called Komuro-zan, 



Mishima. Shuzenji. 



135 



2.— Fkom Hakone to the hot 
speings of shuzenji, and over 
Amagi-san to Shimoda. 



Itinerary. 

HAKONE to:— Ri. 

Mishima 3 

Hojo (Yokka- 



_ niacin) 

Ohito 

Uryuno 

SHUZENJI 

Yugashima . , 
Nashimoto . . 
Mitsukuri . , 
SHIMODA . 



Cho. 
21 

6 
32 

9 
25 
18 

6 
11 

5 



M. 



5i 

i 
if 



12* 
5| 

5i 



Total 21 



25 53 



This is a two or three days' trip, 
which should be arranged in such 
fashion as to sleep the first night at 
Shuzenji, and the second at Yuga- 
no, whence one can easily reach 
Shimoda by noon on the third day ; 
or if necessary, by pushing on to 
the hot springs of Yugashima the 
first night, Shimoda could be reach- 
ed on the second. It is possible to 
take jinrikishas as far as Yuga- 
shima, and again along the excel- 
lently graded road from the foot of 
the Konabe-toge into Shimoda, but 
they are not always to be depended 
upon in that direction. Take it 
altogether, the way beyond Shuzen- 
ji is very hilly, and scarcely to be 
recommended except to pedestrians, 
who will find it replete with natural 
beauty. 

The above itinerary is given from 
Hakone ; but the quickest way of 
reaching Shuzenji from Tokyo is to 
take train to Numazu, from which 
place a good "jinrikisha road follows 
the course of the Kanogawa, joining 
the main road to Shimoda close to 
Hojo, a distance of 3 ri. An alter- 
native road from Numazu via Ushi- 
buse is 1 ri longer, but offers lovely 
sea views. One might also alight 
at Sano which is 1 ri 20 cho from 
Mishima by jinrikisha. 



The first stage of the way from 
Hakone to Mishima, takes the 
traveller along the old roughly 
paved Tokaido, which, soon after 
leaving Hakone, rises to a height 
of 2,970 ft. above the sea, and 
then again descends. About half- 
way down is a vantage-point 1., 
commanding a fine view of the 
country E. of Numazu. The river 
Kanogawa is here seen winding 
between groups of hills, beyond 
which rises the bolder mass of 
Amagi-san. 

Mishima (Inns, Mishima-kwan, 
Sagami-ya), formerly a busy town, 
still boasts a la,rge and famous 
Shinto temple of Oyama-tsumi, the 
god of mountains. 

This temple, founded in A.D. 733, was 

destroyed by earthquake in 1855, and re- 
built in 1869. 

From this place, the road crosses 
a plain near the head of the Gulf of 
Suruga to the vill. of Daiba, where it 
turns up the valley of the Kanogawa, 
passing through the vill. of Hojo. 

Noted in history a s the birthplace of the 
founder of the great Hojo family, who, 
during the 13th century and a portion of 
the 14th, ruled Japan as "Regents'* 
(ShiJcken), in the name of the "Puppet 
Shoguns" of Kamakura. 

The scenery all the way up the 
valley is pretty, including, on turn- 
ing back, charming views of Fuji. 
The rocky sides of Joyama present 
a striking object as_ seen on the r. 
of the hamlet of Ohito. Not far 
beyond Ohito, the prefectural road, 
which has hitherto been followed, is 
abandoned for a path leading up the 
1. bank of the Katsura-gawa to 

Shuzenji (Inn, Arai-ya). De- 
lightfully situated in a secluded 
valley, this place is much resorted 
to on account of its mineral waters. 
In the middle of the river, which 
flows down through the village, a 
hot spring rises up in a basin of 
rock. A roofing has been built over 
the spot, and a wooden bridge con- 
nects it with the bank ; so that 
bathers may either luxuriate in the 
high temperature of the spring, or 



136 



Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu. 



moderate it by means of the cold 
water of the river. The water is also 
led into the inns by means of pipes. 
On the 1. bank stands the temple of 
Shuzenji, belonging to the Soto sect, 
which, though insignificant, gives 
its name to the village. _ 

Behind the vill. of Odaira, and 
visible from the road, is Asahi-no- 
taki, a cascade of about 100 ft. in 
height, forming a series of four or 
five falls. All this neighbourhood 
abounds in hot springs, those of 
Seko-no-taki being the most notable 
( 8 did off the main road from 
Yugashima), and picturesquely si- 
tuated. 

Yiigasliima (Inns, Yumoto-ya, 
Ochiai-ro, at the hot springs) is a 
hamlet at the foot of the Amagi- 
ioge. The ascent of this pass (3 ri) 
is mostly gradual, only one-third of 
the distance being steep. The path 
continues along the r. bank of the 
Kanogawa to the hamlet of Takijiri, 
whence, passing through a pretty 
rocky valley and over open grassy 
hills, it ascends the forest-clad slope 
of one of the spurs to the r. of 
Amagi-san. 

Amogi-san, it should be mentioned, is 
the general name iriven to the whole 
mountain mass stretching across the pro- 
montory of Izu from E. to W., the loftiest 
summit of which is called Banjiro. 
Splendid as is still the timber on this 
range, it has suffered much from deforesta- 
tion during the last two decades. 

The traveller should turn aside 
to visit the cascade of Joren-taki, 
formed by the waters of the Kano- 
gawa. It is situated close to the 
main road. 

The favourite hot springs of 

Yiignno (Inns, Shioda-ya, Edo- 
ya) are prettily situated on the 
banks of the Kawazu-gawa, some 
6 did only from the poor hamlet of 
Nashimoto at the foot of the pass on 
the other side. Here a road branches 
off to Kawazu-no-hama on the coast 
(1J ri), which affords a different 
route for those desirous of returning 
by land. 

Beyond Nashimoto the road 
crosses the Konabe-tdge, a climb of 



18 did, and after passing Mitsuhuri 
descends a picturesque valley, well- 
cultivated, and irrigated by the 
waters of the Nozugawa, a stream 
flowing into the harbour of Shimoda. 
The country round is beautifully 
diversified, every hill laid out in a 
series of terraces planted with rice 
and barley. The conspicuous cone- 
shaped hill which seems, from the 
vill. of Kochi, to block up the mouth 
of the valley, is called Shimoda Fuji. 
Three did from Kochi stands the 
hamlet of B,endaiji (Inn by Yoshi- 
mura Heijiro), noted for its hot 
springs. Further on, the valley wi- 
dens till it forms an extensive open 
plain before reaching 

Shimoda (Inns, Yamamoto-ya, 
Awaman-ro, a compactly built 
and regularly laid out town situated 
on the banks of the Nozugawa. 
The situation of Shimoda is such 
as to command a healthy climate, 
owing to the dryness of the soil 
and the fresh sea-breezes. The 
harbour, though small, is safe and 
convenient. There is also an inner 
anchorage for small junks and boats, 
which is connected with the Nozu- 
gawa, being artificially constructed 
by means of dykes and a break- 
water. 

From Shimoda is exported most 
of the stone employed for the new 
constructions in the capital. It 
comes from extensive quarries at 
Sawada, near Kawazu - no - hama 
(Inn, Mage-ya, with hot springs), 
about 3J ri distant. 

Shimoda was first visited in 1854 by 
Commodore Perry and the ships of the 
United States squadron. By the treaty 
which he concluded, it was constituted an 
open port for American shipping : and 
here Mr. Harris, the American Minister, 
resided until the substitution of Kana- 
gawa as a trading port in 1859. This 
change was motived by an earthquake 
and huge tidal wave that rendered the 
harbour useless for large ships and 
overwhelmed the town. The limit of the 
tidal wave is marked by the spot on which 
the Normal School now stands. 

The easiest way to quit Shimoda 
is by small steamer to Atami, calling 
at two or three places en route. 



Walk round the Coast. 



137 



3. — From Numazu to Shimoda, and 
thence to atami by the coast. 

It is possible to walk round 
the entire peninsula of Izu by fol- 
lowing the path that skirts the 
coast, — a journey which, though 
fatiguing, is extremely pretty in a 
characteristically Japanese way, and 
quite off the beaten track. It is a 
good plan to relieve the monotony 
of such a lengthy walking tour by 
taking boat over certain portions of 
the way, especially that between Ina- 
tori and Ito, where the rugged coast- 
line is seen to better advantage 
from the sea. Indeed, steamers may 
be availed of the whole way ; but 
in making plans, it should never 
be forgotten that this apparently 
more rapid method of conveyance 
affords no punctuality and but little 
comfort. The path continually 
winds up and down the cliffs along 
the sea-shore, passing a succession 
of picturesque nooks, bays, and is- 
lets with rocky caves and pinnacles. 
Of these Dogashima is the most 
noted. The bay of Enoura is famed 
for its beauty, while all along the 
coast from _Shimoda to Atami, the 
volcano of Oshhria, and the smaller 
isles of Izu are constantly in sight. 
The usual country accommodation, 
with excellent fish, is everywhere 
obtainable. If the trip be made in 
winter, — the month of December is 
recommended — it may be advan- 
tageous to do it in the reverse 
direction, in order to have the 
prevailing winds in one's favour. 
The best places to stop at are : — 

Hida (Inn, Haruki-ya). 
Tago (Inn, Taka-ya). 
Matsuzaki (Inn, Shokai-ro). 
Shimoda (see opposite page) . 
Atagawa (Seijo-kwan). 
Ito (Maeda-ya, at Matsubara). 
Atami (*Higuchi-ya), 

The inns recommended at other 
places on the road are : Hashimoto- 
ya, at Mito ; Mage-ya, at Kawazu- 
no-hama ; Shimoda-ya, at Inatori ; 
Matsu-ya, at Yawatano. 



The following is the 
Itinerary. 

NUMAZU to:— Bi. Chd. 

Enoura 1 31 

Mito 2 5 

Tachibo 1 24 

Hida 2 20 

Toi 3 — 

TAGO 5 2 

Matsuzaki .... 2 18 

Nagatsuro .... 5 — 

SHIMODA.... 4 18 
Kawazu - no- 

hama 3 20 

Inatori 1 29 

Naramoto (near 

Atagawa) .... 1 27 

Yawatano 2 27 

ITO (Wada) . . 3 10 

Usami 1 10 

Ajiro 2 — 

ATAMI 2 18 

Total 47 7 



M. 

4 



ii 



4£ 

6f 

8 

3 

5 

6 



115J 



In the above itinerary the road 
lies away from the coast between 
Matsuzaki and Shimoda, and is 
practicable for jinrikishas for about 
half the distance. The coast road 
via Kano is 3J ri longer. 

From Afcami one may reach Kozu 
on the Tokaido Railway by the 
itinerary (reversed) given at the 
beginning of this route (p. 133). 

4. — From Yugashima to Atami. 

This walk from the centre of the 
peninsula to the coast offers superb 
views. The itinerary is as follows : 

YUGASHIMA to :— Bi. Chd. M. 

Nagano — 20 1J 

Harabo 2 — 5 

Hiekawa 1 19 3f 

Ito (Wada) 2 — 5 

ATAMI 5 28 14 

Total 11 31 29 



138 



Route 8. — Tries Island. 



EOUTE 8. 

Vries Island. 

Tries Island, called Izuno Oshima 
by the Japanese, is the largest and 
most accessible of the Izu no Shichi- 
to, or Seven Isles of Izu, which 
stretch away for over 100 m. in 
a southerly direction from near the 
entrance of Tokyo Bay to 33° lat. N. 
Its greatest length is 10 m*. ; its 
breadth in the broadest part 5-J m. 
It is situated 15 m. from the nearest 
point of Izu, and 28Jm. from Misaki 
and Sagami. The ever-smoking vol- 
cano on Vries Island is sighted by 
all ships bound for Yokohama. The 
names of the other six are Toshima, 
Niishima, Kozushima, Miyake, 
Mikura, and Hachijo. 

In ancient days Eastern Japan, then 
semi-barbarous, was used as a place of 
"banishment for criminals expelled from the 
central part_ of the Empire, that is to say 
Nara, Kyot;o, and their environs, where 
the Mikado held his Court. When the 
mainland of E. Japan became settled, the 
islands alone continued to be used as con- 
vict settlements, and they retained this 
character till quite recent times. There 
were exiles living on Vries as late as the 
end of the 18th century. On English 
charts, Hachijo (misspelt Fatsisio), the 
southernmost of the group, is sometimes 
stated to be "a place of exile for the 
grandees of Japan." But it is a mistake 
to suppose that Hachij o was peculiar in 
this respect, or that grandees were the 
only class of persons transported thither. 
The most noted of the many exiles to 
Vries was the famous archer Tametomo, 
who was banished there in 1156, and 
whose prowess forms a favourite subject 
with Japanese romance writers and 
artists. His picture may be seen on the 
back of some of the Japanese bank-notes. 
The current English name of Vries Island 
is derived from that of Captain Martin 
Gerritsz Vries, a Dutch navigator who 
discovered it in 1643. Vries Island was 
noted until recent years for its peculiar 
dialect, and for the retention of curious 
old customs. But few remnants of these 
now survive, excepting the coiffure of the 
women and their habit of carrying loads 
on the head. 

Vries Island has no regular, and 
but little irregular, steam commu- 
nication with the outer world. The 
best way to reach it is by fishing- 
boat from Misaki (see p. 84), whence 



the fare with five sailors should be 
about 10 yen. The weather being 
favourable, any point on the coast 
of the island may be reached in 
from 5 to 8 hrs. The island may 
also be reached from Shimoda or 
Ajiro in Izu, or by junk from Rei- 
gan-jima, Tokyo. The native craft 
cannot, however, be recommended 
to any persons unacquainted with 
the language or unaccustomed to 
Japanese ways ; and the many de- 
lays and disappointments caused 
by the uncertainty of communica- 
tion with the mainland are hardly 
counterbalanced, except to the in- 
vestigator of volcanic phenomena, 
by such interest as the island 
possesses. The best season for the 
trip is early spring, the next best 
being winter. 

There are six villages on the 
island, all situated on the coast, 
and named respectively Motomura 
(more correctly Niijima), Nomashi, 
Sashikiji, Habu, Senzu, and Okada. 
Of these Motomura is the best to 
stop at, whilst Habu has the ad- 
vantage of possessing a small harbour 
— the submerged crater of an ancient 
volcano — and is therefore the easiest 
to take ship from when departing. 
There are no inns on Vries Island, 
excepting a poor one at Motomura ; 
but accommodation can be obtained 
at the house of the Nanushi (Head- 
man) of each village. There are no 
vehicles of any kind, and but few 
pack-horses. The distances along 
the road or path connecting the 
villages are approximately as fol- 
lows (the estimate is that given by 
the local officials, and seems to be 
a rather liberal one) : — 

Bi. Cho. M. 
Senzu to Okada 1 — 2 J 

Okada to Motomura .... 2 — 5 
Motomura to Nomashi . . 1 — 2 J 
Nomashi to Sashikiji.. 3 — 7J 
Sashikiji to Habu .... — 19 1J 

For the most part the road runs 
at some distance from the coast, 
which it only rejoins on nearing 
the villages; and there are also a 



Volcano of Mihara. 



139 



number of paths in all directions, 
used by the inhabitants for bring- 
ing down fire-wood from the hill- 
sides. Usually the way lies through 
a low wood of camellia, skimmia, 
and other evergreens, and some- 
times, as for instance between 
Motomura and Nomashi, along a 
charming fern-clad dell. Pheasants 
are abundant. 

There is no road round the E. 
coast from Habu to Senzu; but the 
distance is approximately 5 ri> and 
the way leads over the desolate 
slope of the volcano by which the 
whole centre of the island is occu- 
pied. The name of the volcano is 
Mihara, 2,500 ft. high. From its 
summit smoke perpetually issues, 
and it is subject to frequent erup- 
tions. The nearest point on the 
coast to the summit of the moun- 
tain is Nomashi, but the ascent 
may be undertaken equally well 
from Motomura. 

The climb requires only 2 hrs., 
and the whole expedition, including 
stoppages, can easily be made during 
a forenoon. Passing through the 
village, the ascent, as made from 
Motomura, leads for the first hour 
through a wood, aud then emerges 
on to volcanic scoriae, where nothing- 
grows but small tufts of grass and 
dwarf alder. The eminence seen 
ahead to the 1. and called Kagami- 
bata, is not the summit of the 
mountain, but only a portion of the 
wall of an immense ancient crater, 
in the midst of which stands the 
present cone, with its much smaller 
though still considerable dimen- 
sions. From this point it is a 5 
min. walk to the lip of the an- 
cient crater, which here forms a 
flat oval waste of minute scoriae, 
with stones scattered here and 
there. Its greatest length on this 
side is estimated at nearly 1 m., 
and it is surrounded by low broken 
hillocks of lava, against whose sides 
the sand is piled up. Half an hour's 
walk across this desolate waste, 
where not even a blade of grass is 
to be seen, brings us to the little 



torii marking the Nomashi approach 
to the mountain, and forming the 
limit beyond which women are not 
allowed to proceed. From this 
point there is a fine view. In front, 
and most conspicuous of all, are the 
other islands and islets of the Izu 
group, the curious pyramidal To- 
shima, with Shikine and Kozu 
behind ; to the 1. of Toshima the 
longer and lower outline of Niijima, 
with little Udoma in front. To the 
1. again, but considerably more 
distant, are the larger islands of 
Miyake and Mikura, while on ex- 
ceptionally clear days the outline 
of Hachijo — so at least it is asserted 
— can be descried. To the W. are 
seen Amagi-san and other portions 
of the peninsula of Izu, the tower- 
ing cone of _Fuji, with the lesser 
Hakone and Oyama ranges ; to the 
N. Misaki in Sagami, and to the 
N.E. the outline of the peninsula 
of Kazusa-Boshu, which shuts in 
Tokyo Bay from the open Pacific. 
The climb hence to the top of 
the mountain takes \ hr. The 
width of the present crater at the 
summit has been estimated at § m. 

Mihara may also be ascended 
from Habu or from Senzu, the climb 
on that side of the island being, 
however, much longer and more 
difficult, 

Excepting the ascent of the vol- 
cano, there are few w^alks in the 
island deserving of mention. The 
collector of ferns will, however, find 
numerous and beautiful species, 
not only between Motomura and 
Nomashi, but also at a place called 
Bdzu-ga-Hora, i.e., the Priest's Dell, 
about 1 m. out of Habu in the 
direction of Senzu. A spare day at 
Habu may also be devoted to walk- 
ing along the coast towards Senzu ; 
but the vapour spring situated on 
the mountain -side between the two 
places, of which the visitor will be 
told by the natives, is at a distance 
— 5 ri — which makes it difficult of 
access in one day, on account of the 
arduous nature of the ground ; and 
there is not even a shed in which to 



140 



Eoute 9. — Fuji and Neighbourhood. 



lake shelter. This spring is resorted 
to in cases of wounds and bruises, 
the friends of the sick person erect- 
ing some temporary cover, Futago- 
yama, the double-crested mountain, 
whose red hue, caused by the pre- 
sence of brittle lava of that colour, 
is so conspicuous from Habu, is a 
mere spur of the volcano, and has 
no special interest. 



EOUTE 9. 

Fuji and Neighbourhood. 

1. general information. 2. as- 
cent from gotemba station. 
3. ascent from murayama. 4. 
ascent from subashiri. 5. as- 
cent from yoshida. 6. ascent 
from hito-ana. 7. ascent from 
suyama. 8. summit of fuji. 9. 
circuit of fuji half-way up. 
10. circuit of the base, cave of 
hito-ana, kami-ide waterfalls. 

1. — General Information. 

Time. Mere hurried ascent of 
Fuji and back to Yokohama, 1 day 
and night ; more comfortably in 2 
days and 1 night, which latter is 
spent at one of the huts on the 
mountain side. 

The pleasantest plan is to com- 
bine the ascent of Fuji with a visit 
to the Miyanoshita-Hakone district, 
giving at least a week to the entire 
trip, and climbing the mountain 
during whichever portion of that 
time seems to promise the most 
settled weather. The ascent is 
usually made between the 15th July 
and 10th September, the huts to 
accommodate pilgrims being closed 
during the rest of the year and the 
coolie guides (gdriki) fearing to go 
up so long as any snow remains on 
the path. The charge at the huts 
is $1 per night. The best time is 



from the 25th July to the 10th 

August. 

The best way to reach Fuji from 
Yokohama is to take the Tokaido 
Railway as far as Gotemba Station, 
3 hrs., where guides, horses, foreign 
saddles, as also rough quilts and 
charcoal to ward oft the cold air at 
night in the huts on the mountain 
top can be procured. The traveller 
must bring his own food. Instead of 
staying at Gotemba and making the 
ascent thence, many prefer to push 
on 6 m. to Subashiri at the E. base 
of the mountain, where there is a 
better inn and whence the climb is 
a rather easier one. Travellers 
from the Kobe direction should 
alight either at Iwabuchi or at 
Suzukawa, and ascend from Mura- 
yama, it being 3 ri_ from each 
of those stations to Omiya (Inn, 
Wata-ya). One goes from Iwabuchi 
to Omiya by jinrikisha ; from Suzu- 
kawa to Omiya by tram in 1J hr., 
passing through the town of Yoshi- 
wara. There is a short cut from 
Yoshiwara for pedestrians. Those 
coming from Kofu will naturally 
ascend from Yoshida. It is also 
possible to ascend from Suyama, 
S. E., and Hito-ana, S. W. ; but 
these last two have nothing special 
to recommend them. Details of 
the ascent from Gotemba Station, 
etc., are given below. Numbers of 
travellers choose rather to reach Fuji 
from Miyanoshita or Hakone, by 
walking to Gotemba or Subashiri, 
over the Otome-toge (see p. 128). In 
this case they can provide them- 
selves beforehand with all neces- 
saries at the hotel. It is always 
advisable to take plenty of warm 
clothing, as the temperature falls 
below freezing point at night on the 
summit of the mountain even 
during the hottest period of summer. 
It is also prudent to take an extra 
supply of food, as parties have 
occasionally been detained on the 
mountain side by stress of weather, 
unable either to reach the summit 
or to descend to the base. It is 
possible, by sleeping at Gotemba 



T 

1 , -. 






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y^6kit»a 


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smzroKA & 


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Vm. 


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Genera I Info rma Hon . 



141 



Station or at Murayama, and start- 
ing at dawn, to reach the summit 
and descend again in a single day 
(in local Japanese parlance hi-yama, 
that is, "day-mountaiu "). Counting 
the working day as having 15 hrs. 
(4 a.m. to 7 p.m.), this would allow 
11 hrs. for the ascent, including 
short stoppages, 1 hr. at the top, and 
3 hrs. for the descent. The shortest 
time in which the ascent and descent 
have been known to be made from 
Gotemba Station, including stop- 
pages, is 9 hrs. 8 min., of which 6 hrs. 
50 rn. were occupied in the ascent. 
But persons less desirous of " break- 
ing the record " than of really seeing 
what they have come so far to see, 
are strongly urged to pursue the 
following course : — leave Gotemba 
Station or Murayama before day- 
light — say at 2 a.m. — thus includ- 
ing the glory of sunrise on the way 
up. After sunrise, do the remain- 
der of the ascent slowly, reaching 
the summit about midday. Having 
established himself in one of the 
huts on the summit, the traveller 
should go down into the crater, 
make the round of the crater, -and 
spend the night at the top. This 
will afford the chance of a sunset 
and of a second sunrise, after which 
the descent can be at once begun. 
The descent will take most people 
from 4J to 5 hrs. The great ad- 
vantage of this plan is that it 
multiplies the chances of a good 
view from the summit, — such views 
being much more often obtained at 
sunrise and sunset than in the 
middle of the day, and being by no 
means certain at any time. 

Apropos of views, may be mentioned the 
Japanese term Fuji-mi Ju-san-shu, that is, 
the Thirteen Provinces from which Fuji 
is visible. These are Musashi, Boshu, 
Kazusa, Shimosa, Hitachi, Shimotsuke, 
Kotsuke, Shinshu, Koshu, Totomi, Suru- 
ga, Izu, and Sagami. The map of these 
provinces is an excellent specimen of old- 
fashioned Japanese cartography. A very 
slight acquaintance with the written 
characters will make it one of the most 
useful maps to travel with. 

Fuji is much more easily ascend- 
ed than many mountains far in- 



ferior in height, as it presents no 
obstacles in the shape of rocks or 
undergrowth. The first 6,000 ft. of 
the ascent can moreover be per- 
formed on horseback, after which 
the accomplishment of the re- 
mainder is merely a question of 
steady perseverance. The distance 
to the summit from the point call- 
ed Uma-gaeshi, is unequally divided 
into ten parts called go (the unit 
being oddly enough a sho, which is 
a measure of capacity containing 
about 1J quarts), which are sub- 
divided in some cases into halves 
called go-shaku. The first station 
is thus Ichi-go-me, the second Ni-go- 
me, and so on, the last before the 
summit is reached being Ku-go-me, 
or No. 9. 

One explanation given by the Japanese 
of this peculiar method of calculation is 
that the mountain resembles in shape a 
heap of dry rice poured out of a measure, 
and that consequently its subdivisions 
must correspond to the fractions of the 
latter. However this may be, the go is 
used as a tenth part of the ri in other 
provinces, especially in Satsuma. 

At most of these stations, as also 
at the top, are huts where accom- 
modation for the night, boiled rice, 
and water can be obtained. 

The number of coolies required 
will of course depend on the amount 
of baggage to be carried. When 
ladies are making the ascent, it is 
advisable to have a spare man or 
two to help them when tired. 
Stout gaiters are recommended to 
be worn during the descent, to 
prevent sand and ashes from get- 
ting inside the boots. 

Fuji, often called Fuji-son, that is 
Mount Fuji, and by the poets Fuji-no- 
yama, that is the Mountain of Fuji, 
whence tbe form Fusiyama often used by 
Europeans, stands between the provinces 
of Sut uga and Koshu, and is the highest, 
the most beautiful, and the most famous 
mountain in Japan. The height of Ken- 
ga-mine, its loftiest peak, has been vari- 
ously estimated at 12,234 ft. (Knipping)j 
12,341 ft. (Chaplin); 12,360 ft. (Favre- 
Brandt); 12,365 ft. (Stewart); 12,400— 
12,450 (Milne) ; 12,437 ft. (Rein). 

Though now quiescent, Fuji must still 
be accounted a volcano. Frequent men- 
tion is made in Japanese literature of the 



142 



"Route 9. —Fuji and Neighbourhood* 



smoke of Fuji, which, If the expressions 
used by poets may be taken as Indicating 
foci s, mm i ii:>\ e formed r oonstant Peal are 
m the \\\ ndscape at least as late as the 
iiih oenl ii i-.\ . a hundred j en rs earlier It 
me, however, to have been already less 
violent than the discharge from A.sama- 
yama In Shinsbu\ An author who flou- 
rished about the end <>i the Oth century 

says: " Their is :t l»w el spurc at, the simi- 

iii ii , about one H square, having a depres- 

I Li hi in (lie een! re ; Im ] >< •< I like n cm iiIiIimh, 

at the bottom of whioh is r pond. This 
cauldron Is usunlly filled with vapour of a 
pine green (or blue) colour, and the bot« 
torn appears like boiling water, The 
steam Is vi Lble al n s peat distance Prom 
i he mount :> In." I □ 987 a small mounts in 
whs formed at the eastern base of Fuji. 
Tins was probably the small hump called 
i ... Fuji, on i, he I. of the second station on 
i kc < ;..i cniiii sscenl . \ tre seller's journal 
<>r the year 1081 freaks of smoke rising 
Prom i he slightly flattened summit, while 
at in-ill, flre was seen to issue Prom the 
crater. Eruptions alsoooourred in t082s ad 

m; 19, 'rii- in. . i reoent one I an on the 

18th Deoemb ■'■, I r07, and lusted with In- 
tervals till the 22nd January, i7os. 
This being the period known in Japanese 
chronology as Zxd>t, the name of udsutoan 
whs ;• i\ en to the hump then formed os 
i. in- upper slope of the S. side or the 
mountain. According to a uother aocount, 
:i projection had alwavs existed in this 
plaoe, ''Hi. whs rendered more conspicuous 
by this Latest eruption. Be this at It 
may, it. is recorded I hat the ashes lay <; 

I'eei, deep on the Tokfl tdfl ne:ir I hna n.lld 

SToshiwara, and even Pell in Sedotoadepth 
of <"» Inches. Even at the present, day, 
i nil ii i|un nti! Les of steam continue to 

issue through the n.shes on t,h • ED. Or Snha- 

shirl side of I he mounts in, just, outside 

I he lip Of I he era.h-r. I I has 0660 H idely 

believed thai the greal ea pthquake of is;u 
ed I he Bhape or the mountain ; but 
this Ides la oompiel elj groundless. 

Em 'i mous must ha ^e been the torrents 
of lava that have flowed Prom Fuji on 
different ooOHsions. Fifteen mii.s Prom 
-I ii n. in :i direot line, Mt. the vill, 
of Mati niio <ui t he r bank of tin- Fuji- 
■ a i . Is i he termination of one <a these 
- ■ pea "i .. w hiic !i uother may be studied 
on the n.k. side of the base, between 
5 ■ ■ hide and Funatsu. But most, of the 
i »\ m has "on"- sinoe been oo\ cvr*\ up by 
the deep deposits of ashes and scoriae, 
and only becomes visible here and there 
w here 11 Is denuded by I ii«' si reams \> hioh 

furrow I he low i'\- part, of the mountain. 

The aspect of Fuji has so impressed 

.' lonal mind I lint, many other hills 
of hk.' Shape derive th.'ir name from it.. 

'rims we have the Bungo Fuji, Co-Fuji, 

Fuji stands by Itself, rising with 
niio majestic sweep from a plain 
almost surrounded by mountains. | 



The S. side slopes right down to 

Mm- sea, Its outline being broke* 
only on the S.E. by the rugged 
peaks of Ashitaka-yama. On the 
N. and w. rise steep granite ranges, 
stretohing away from the Misaks> 
t5ge nearly to the junction of the 
Shibakawa with the Fujikawa. 
Against these mountains the showers 
of ashes which were ejected from 
the orater have piled themselves 
up, and confined in their separate 
basins the waters of tin; Motosu, 
Shoji, and other lakes. The EJ, 
side Is shut in by volcanic moun- 
tains of undetermined origin, be- 
ginning near Subashiri, and extend* 

iUth Wards into the peninsula 
of 1/u. Among them lies Lake 
Eakone, with the numerous hot, 

springs of Miyanoshita, Ashinoyti, 
Atami, and their neighbourhood. 
The base of the mountain is 
cultivated \\\> to a, height of about 

1,500 ft., above which spreads a 
wide grassy moorland to 4,000 ft., 

where the forest commences. The 

upper limit of this varies consider- 
ably, being lowest on the B. side, 

namely, about 5,500 ft. on the as- 
cent from GKotemba, and 7,900 ft. on 
the Murayama side. But <>n the 
\V. Eaoe, between the Yoshida and 
Murayama ascents, and looking 

down OVer the plain round llito- 

ana, it must extend as high as 

9,000 ft. oi more. This difference 

is no doubt due in a, great measure 
to the comparatively recent die- 
turbanoe on the S.B. side, which 
caused the present conformation of 
l [dei-zan, v\ hen the greater part of 
the ashes thrown out fell iii the 
direction of ( iotemba, destroying the 
forest, and leaving a desert waste 
whioh only a long lapse of years 
can again oover with vegetation. 
To the same oause, namely, com- 
paratively reoont volcanic action, 
must be asoribed the almost entire 
absence of those Alpine plants 
whioh abound on the summits of 
other high mountains in the neigh- 
bourhood, such as Ontake, Shirane 
in Kodiu, and Yatsu-^a-take. 



Ascent from Gotnnha and from Murayama. 



143 



the foresl lies a narrow 
of bushes, chiefly dwarfed larch. 
•ies of hardy plants are 
found up to a height of 10,1 

on some parts of the cone. 



2.- 



-ASCENT FROM GOTEMBA 
ST A'i 



Gotemba Si at ion [Inns, Fuji-ya, 
Hatsu-ya) is 12 i the vill. cf 

tliere is no longer 
any nece sity f I > the latter 

oticc in pro-railway 

ing now a direct and 

q from 

i by what ia called the 

ifa route, avoiding 

If the traveller intends 
end the night at 
Station, lie should try to arrive 
is to avoid difficulty in 
bccommodationat tl 
In order to economise one's 
it is advisable to take 
first 2.J hrs. of the 
t across an open and geutty 
This ta . 
J 

i (also 
called Komitake), where they must 
be left.* 

At Tardbd (so called from a 
goblin w]j 

■ 
way up. These stavi 
engraved with the f the 

mountain, and can have a further 
inscrii led by the 

w] i o d wel 1 i i j si d e tl i e c r I 

igh Fuji, as already stated, 
is theoretically divided on all its 

r exist in 

are Bubdii 

and top ar- should 

ind, in ease of the 
»ry of calling a halt f 
,ay. 

■ 

which it i 



The heights of the chief stations 
are as follows : — 



No. 



3. 




L 




5. 




f, 


9,317 


B. 


10,693 



ft. 



From No. 2 \ to 5 the path 
in, where the steep porl 

the as .. 6 a path 

turns off for Hoei-zan. A 
the climb I 
still, being I 

From here, too, patches of sn< 
probably be found in rifts in the 
lava rock; but there are nowhere 
any actual snow-fields to be tra- 
versed. At No. 10 — the top — there 
are three stone huts, fairly i 
and comfortable. Should tl. 
be occupied by pilgrims, the travel- 
ler must walk round to the huts on 
the Subashiri side of the lip of the 
crater, about J m. distant. 

The descent as far as No. 7 is 
the same as the ascent. At I 
it diverges to the r. down a kind of 
glissade (Jap. hashiri) of loose sand, 
over which one may uch a 

rate as to reach No. 24 in less than 
1 hr. From Tardbd onwards, the 
t will OOOU] much 

ai was required for the as- 
cent. The entire journey down 
from the summit to Gotemba 
fcion can be accomplished in 5 hrs. 

: :AYAMA. 

From Murayama {Inn, by Fnji- 
masa) to the Uma-gacshi, or riding 

t the mou 
is a distance of 9 
onward it is necessary to wall 
the various stations, No. 5 is the 
-led, thoi - 
ir, the ascent from Mun I 

having long been that 

pilgrims, 
and therefore styled tl; 
quchl. -or Front Entrance, to t lie 

bain. This ai 
advantage of ofl made 

than t 
climbers therefore recommend going 



144 



Route 9. — Fuji and Neighbourhood. 



up this way, and descending on the 
steeper Gotemba side. 

4. — Ascent from Subashiri. 
At Subftshiri, the inn generally 
patronised by foreigners is Yone- 
yarna. Yaniada-ya also is fair. 
The road to the Uma-gaeshi on 
this side leads for 2 ri up a broad 
avenue through the forest, whence 
it is another 2 ri to a place called 
Chujiki-ba, where a halt for re- 
freshments is generally made. This 
is 8 cho below station No. 1. The 
best stations are 2, 6, and especially 
No. 8 and the top. At No. 9 is 
a small shrine known as Mukai 
Sengen, that is the Goddess of 
Fuji's Welcome, intimating to the 
weary wayfarer that he is ap- 
proaching the goddess's sanctum. 

5. — Ascent from Yoshida. 
Yosliida is an unusually long 
village, divided into an upper por- 
tion {Kami Yoshida) and a lower 
portion (Shimo Yoshida). From 
Kami Yoshida (Inn, Kogiku) the 
way to Uma-gaeshi, the 2nd sta- 
tion, as far as which it is possible to 
ride, lies up an avenue. The upper 
edge of the forest is not quitted till 
No. 5 is reached. Thus the view on 
the way up is less good by this route 
than on the Gotemba and Mura- 
yama sides. 

6. — Ascent from Hito-ana. 
The ascent from Hito-ana (Inn, 
Akaike Keikichi) is laborious, and 
the view much spoilt by the 
dense forest through which the 
track lies. It is therefore not 
recommended. Travellers wishiug 
to visit the beautiful waterfalls of 
Kami-ide (see Sect. 10) might, how- 
ever, find it worth their while to 
descend on this side. If their lug- 
gage is light, they can take it with 
them over the mountain. If not, 
they must allow plenty of time for 
sending it round the base. 

7.— Ascent from Suyama. 

This is an alternative way for 
persons staying at Hakone, who can 



reach Suyama via the Lake and 
the Fukara Pass in 6 to 8 hrs. 
Coolies for the whole trip, includ- 
ing the ascent of Fuji, should be 
engaged at Hakone, as the re- 
sources of Suyama are limited, 
though there is a tea-house (Wa- 
tanabe Hideo). But the ascent 
from Gotemba Station is to be 
preferred. The path up Fuji from 
Suyama joins the path up from 
Gotemba at station No. 3. 

8. — Summit of Fuji. 

The summit of the mountain 
consists of a series of peaks sur- 
rounding the crater, the diameter 
of which is not far short of 2,000 
ft. The descent into it, down the 
loose talus of rock and cinders 
close to the huts at the top of the 
Murayama ascent, is quite easy ; 
still it is advisable to take a guide. 
The bottom is reached in 20 min. 
The floor, which is formed of 
cinders, inclines slightly from W. 
to E., and is intersected by small 
stream-beds, which at the E. end 
terminate among the loosely piled 
lava masses forming the core of the 
mountain. All round, except where 
the descent is made, rise precipi- 
tous rocky walls, from which large 
pieces detach themselves from time 
to time with a loud crackling sound 
like musketry. On the W. side, 
immediately under Ken-ga-mine, 
there is usually a large snow-slope. 
The depth has been variously cal- 
culated at 416 ft., 548 ft. and 584 ft. 
The return to the edge will take 
about 25 min. 

Before dawn the pilgrims betake 
themselves to Ken-ga-mine, the 
peak on the W. of the crater, 
and the true summit of the moun- 
tain, to await the sun's rising. As 
the luminary approaches the hori- 
zon and all the clouds about it 
glow with the most brilliant hues 
of red flame, the feeling of longing 
expectation seems almost to over- 
come them ; but as soon as the 
burning disc appears, they greet it 
devoutly, rubbing their chaplets 



Summit of Fuji. 



145 



between their hands and muttering 
prayers to the great deity. 

Ken-ga-mine commands a mar- 
vellously extensive view. To the 
S. stretches the Gulf of Suruga, 
shut in on the E. by the lofty 
promontory of Izu, and confined on 
the W. by Miozaki at the termi- 
nation of the long range divid- 
ing the valley of the Abekawa from 
that of the Fujikawa. S.W. is the 
broad pebbly bed of the Fujikawa, 
its course above the point where it 
crosses the Tokaido being hidden 
by the lower hills. Westwards are 
seen all the lofty peaks of the 
border range of Koshu and Shin- 
shu, beginning with the angular 
granite obelisk of Koma-ga-take 
and its lesser neighbours Jizo and 
H6-6-zaD, then the three summits 
of Shirane, known as Kaigane, Ai- 
no-take, and Nodori, the Koma-ga- 
take of Shinshu rising between the 
Tenryu-gawa and Kisogawa, and 
so on to Ena-san in Mino and 
the top of Shichimen-zan near 
Minobu. Further to the r.', ex- 
tending northwards, comes the 
great range dividing far-off Hida 
from Shinshu, amongst whose 
peaks may be distinguished Nori- 
kura, Yari-ga-take, and, further 
remote in Etchu, the volcanic 
summits of Tateyama. Gradually 
moving E. again, along the north- 
ern horizon, we distinguish the 
mountains near Nagano, — Ken-no- 
mine and the extinct volcano of 
Myoko-zan. Nearer in the fore- 
ground rise the numerous sum- 
mits of Yatsu-ga-take ; and then 
glancing further N., we perceive 
Asama-yama's smoking crater, the 
mountains about the Mikuni Pass, 
and next, all the Nikko mountains, 
— Shirane, Nantai-zan, and lesser 
peaks. E. of Yatsu-ga-take is seen 
Kimpu-zan, easily known by its 
rounded shoulder and the pillar of 
rock at the summit ; then Yakushi 
and Mitsumine in Chichibu, till 
the eye loses itself in a confusion of 
lower ridges. On the E. side of the 
crater, from almost any point that 



may be chosen, the eye rests on a 
prospect less extensive indeed, but 
surpassing this in beauty. Far 
away across the plain, is distinctly 
visible the double top of Tsukuba in 
Hitachi, while further S. we descry 
the outer edge of the Tokyo plain; 
with Tokyo lying far up the bay ; 
then in succession Capes Sagami 
and Sunosaki, Vries Island, the Gulf 
of Sagami, and nearer in the fore- 
ground beautiful Lake Hakone 
peacefully embosomed among green 
hills. 

Few will be fortunate enough to 
obtain a perfectly clear view from 
the summit of Fuji, but the best 
chances are just before and at sun- 
rise. " Nor," says an authority, 
" will the pilgrim be wholly fortunate 
unless he sees the superb cloud 
effects which the mountain affords. 
These are most likety to be enjoyed 
in ordinary summer weather, be- 
tween noon and 6 o'clock in the 
evening, and they are truly magni- 
ficent. The summit of the mountain 
remains clear, but its shoulders and 
waist are surrounded by billowy 
masses of dense white vapour of 
indescribable splendour. Here and 
there a momentary break may per- 
mit a glimpse of the earth beneath, 
but usually nothing can be seen 
landward but this vast ocean of 
cloud, amid which the peak stands 
as the only island in the world. 
Turning seaward, the ocean itself 
can be seen over the circumambient 
vapour, and affords a striking con- 
trast to the turmoil and restless 
change of form of the clouds them- 
selves." 

A curious phenomenon may also 
sometimes be witnessed at sunrise 
from the W. side of the summit. 
As the sun's rays appear above the 
horizon, 4he shadow of Fuji (kagc- 
Fiiji) is thrown in deep outline on 
the clouds and mist, which at that 
hour clothe the range of mountains 
to the west. 

Descending again from Ken-ga- 
mine, the path passes under it, and 
just above the steep talus called 



146 



Route 9.— Fuji and Neighbourhood, 



Oya sliirazu Kg shirazu (" Heedless 
of Parent or Child"), from the notion 
that people in danger of falling over 
the edge of the crater would not 
heed even their nearest relatives if 
sharers of the peril. The name 
occurs in similarly perilous places 
in many parts of Japan. Con- 
tinuing N., the path skirts the 
edge of the cone, passing a huge 
and precipitous gorge which appears 
to extend downwards to the very 
base of the mountain. This gorge 
is called Osaioa, the lower limit of 
which may be some 6,000 ft. above 
the sea, or only half-way from the 
summit. Passing across the flank 
of the Rai-iwa, or Thunder Rock, it 
goes outside the crater wall, ascends 
the Shaka no Wari-ishi (Shaka's 
Cleft Rock), and leaving Shaka-ga- 
take — the second loftiest peak — be- 
hind, descends to the Kim-mei-sui 
(Famous Golden Water), a spring of 
ice-cold water situated on the flat 
shelf between the N. edge of the 
crater and the outer wall. Ascend- 
ing again, the path passes the row of 
huts at the top of the ascent from 
Yoshida and Subashiri, and reaches 
a torii commanding the best view of 
the crater. It then turns again to 
the 1., and goes outside the wall of 
the crater, underneath Kwannon-ga- 
take. Here the interesting pheno- 
menon may be observed of steam 
still issuing from the soil in several 
places, one of which is close to the 
path, while another lies near at 
hand on the 1., about 50 ft. down the 
exterior of the cone, and a third is 
seen immediately underneath a 
wall of rock 50 yds. ahead. A few 
inches below the surface, the heat 
is great enough to boil an egg. 
Beyond this point, the path crosses 
a depression known as Seishi-ga- 
kubo, ascends E. the Sai-ne-kawara, 
dotted with stone cairns raised in 
honour of Jizo, descends to the 
Gim-mei+sui, or Famous Silver 
Water, at the top of the Gotemba 
ascent, and passing under the low 
peak named Koma-ga-take, reaches 
the huts at the top of the path from 



Murayama. Between this last point 
and Ken-ga-mine, is a small crater 
named Konoshiro-ga-ike, accessible 
from the N. The total distance 
round the large crater is said by the 
Japanese to be 1 ri, or 2J miles; 
but this is doubtless an exaggera- 
tion. An interesting hour may be 
devoted to making the circuit, which 
will allow for pauses at all the best 
points of view. 

9. — The Chudo-Megubi, ob Cir- 
cuit of Fuji Half-way up. 

This walk is a favourite with 
native lovers of the picturesque, 
on account of the panorama which 
it successively unfolds. The path 
encircles Fuji at heights varying 
from 9,490 ft. on the Gotem- 
ba side (which it intersects at 
station No. 6) to 7,450 ft. on the 
Yoshida side. It is best to turn to 
the 1. on starting from the above- 
mentioned No. 6 station, because 
the path descends a rapid slope of 
loose sand from the ridge of Hoei- 
zan towards the W., which would 
be very fatiguing if taken in the 
opposite direction. The path pro- 
ceeds along the narrow ridge of 
Hoei-zan, turns down into the deep 
hollow formed by the eruption of 
1707, crosses the ridge at its further 
side to a broad plateau bestrewn 
with the cast-off sandals of pilgrims, 
and climbs steeply to hut No. 5 on 
the Murayama ascent. It then 
continues W. over dykes oj lava 
until it reaches the great O-Sawa 
ravine, and, descending the moun- 
tain to the 1. of the huge mass of 
lava which here projects over the 
chasm, passes through a wood of 
larch and rhododendron to the S. 
edge of the ravine, which is now 
crossed. The path onward lies al- 
ternately through the wood and over 
the bare northern side of the cone 
to a spot called Ko-mitake, where 
a hut affords accommodation for the 
night. Shortly beyond this point 
the path divides, the r. branch, 
which should be taken, leading to 



Circuit of the Base. 



147 



No. 5J on the Yoshida ascent 
whence Lake Yamanaka is well 
seen almost due E. Turning off 1. 
-at No. 6, the path winds over the 
lava dykes to No. 5 on the Suba- 
shiri ascent, and then by a gentle 
gradient back to our starting-point. 
The time required for the entire 
circuit is from 7 to 8 hrs., the walk 
offering no difficulties. 

10. — ClECUIT OF THE BASE OF FUJI 

(Time, 2 j— 3 days.) 

Itinerary. 
GOTEMBA Station to :— 

Ri. Clio. M. 
Gotemba Village . . 12 f 

Subashiri 2 18 6 

Yamanaka 2 — 5 

Yoshida 2 8 5J 

Funatsu 1 — 2J 

Kodachi 12 f 

Nagahama 1 — 2-J 

Nishi-no-umi 12- f 

Nemba 1 12 3J 

Shoji 1 24 4 

Motosu 2—5 

Nebara 1 8 3 

Hito-ana 2 28 6| 

Kami-ide 1 8 3 

Omiya 3 8 7f 

SUZUKAWA 3 — li 

Total 26 6 63| 



(From Suzukawa by rail to Go- 
temba in 1J hr.) 

The road is practicable as far as 
Subashiri by basha, and on to 
Kodachi by jinrikisha, the Kago- 
zaka being the only part where it is 
necessary to get out and walk. 
Boats can be taken from Kodachi 
to Nagahama, from Nishi-no-umi 
to Nemba, and from Shoji across 
the lake of the same name. 
Pack-horses can be got at most 
of the stages for the whole round. 
A tramway runs from Omiya to 
Suzukawa. Travellers are recom- 
mended to engage horses for the 
whole trip, and thus render them- 



selves independent of their luggage, 
should they avail themselves of 
the opportunity of doing portions 
of the journey by boat. 

Excepting the first 5 or 6 ri 9 
the whole of this trip is highly- 
picturesque, leading, as it does, 
along the chain of lakes — Kawagu- 
chi, Nishi-no-Umi, Shoji, and 
Motosu — that encircles the base of 
Fuji. Were there only good hotels 
or good private houses to hire, the 
shores of all these lakes would 
form delightful summer retreats. 
Scenery, fishing of sorts (carp, 
eels, aka-hara, etc.), short walks for 
the delicate, climbing for the strong 
and active, bathing, nearness to 
such celebrated excursions as Fuji, 
the Misaka-toge, Minobu, etc.,— all 
the elements of a pleasant holiday 
are there. But the accommodation 
is everywhere poor except at Suba- 
shiri, Yoshida, and Kami-ide. 

At Hito-ana is a cave 250 yds. 
long, visited by pilgrims anxious 
to worship the little image of 
Kwannon perched on a project- 
ing rock at its far end. But the 
chief sight on the road is af- 
forded by the beautiful waterfalls 
of KiUiii-ide, known as Shira-ito no 
taki, or the White Thread Cas- 
cades. The two largest, some 85 
ft. in height, are called respectively 
O-daki and Me-daki, or the Male 
and Female Cascades, and there 
are more than forty smaller falls, 
their children. In the neighbour- 
hood is another fine cascade, about 
100 ft. high and 30 ft. wide, called 
Nen-nen-fuchi. 

Persons not caring to make the 
entire round of Fuji may visit the 
Kami-ide waterfalls by alighting 
at Suzukawa station on the Tokaido 
B-ailway, whence it is a distance 
of 6 ri 8 cho^ the first 3 ri of which, 
as far as Omiya, by tram. The 
way there and back can be done in 
a day, under favourable circum- 
stances. One may also alight at 
Iwabuchi (good inn at station), 
whence it is only 5J ri ; but there 
is no tram. 



148 



Route 10. — The Takasaki- Karuizawa Railway. 



EOUTE 10. 

The Tokyo-Takasaki-Karuizawa 
Kailway. 

[cave temple of kagemori. 
maebashi.] isobe. myogi-san. 



Distance 

from 

TokyS. 


Names 

of 

Stations. 


Remarks. 


4 m. 

6 
10 
13 

17 

22 
24 
29 
34 
38 
45 
51 
56 

63 

64% 
69 

73^ 

77| 

m 

87i 


TOKYO (Ueno). 
Oji. 

Akabane Jet 

Warabi. 
Urawa. 

Omiya Jet 


flip trains 

< change for 
(. Yokohama. 

^Change for 

< Nikko and 
(. the North. 

See p. 120. 

/Change for 
Karui zawa. 
I Some trains 
j change for 
1 MaebasM, 6 
^ miles, 
j Alight for 
i Myogi-san. 


Ageo. 
Okegawa. 
Konosu 


Fukiage. 

Kumagai, 

Fukaya. 

Honjo. 

Shimmachi. 

TAKASAKI 

Jet 


Iizuka. 

Annaka. 

Isobe 


Matsuida. 

Yokokawa. 

KARUIZAWA. 



This line closely follows the first 
stages of the old Nakasendo (see 
Route 35), and is flat and unin- 
teresting till Takasaki Junction is 
left behind. 

Urawa (Inn, Yamaguchi-ya) is 
the seat of government of the pre- 
fecture of Saitama, which includes 
the greater part of the province of 
Musashi. 

Omiya (Inn, Takashima-ya in the 
Public Garden supplies foreign 
food). An avenue of 1 m. in length 
leads to Hikawa no Jinja, the chief 
Shinto temple of Musashi, situated 
in grounds that have been turned into 
a public garden. The temple is said 
to have been founded in honour of 
Susano-o by Yamato-take, on his 



return from subduing the barbarous 
tribes of Eastern Japan. Leaving 
Omiya, the first place of importance 
reached is 

Jin m ag'ai ( Inn, Shimizu - ya ) r 
which carries on a large trade in 
silk and cotton, and possesses his- 
torical interest in connection with 
the warrior Kumagai Naozane (see 
p. 60). 

[A jinrikisha road strikes off from 
Kumagai to Omiya (Inn, Kado- 
ya) in Chichibu, 12| ri, an im- 
portant mart of the silk-trade,, 
not to be confounded with 
Omiya on the Railway, men- 
tioned just above. Twenty cho- 
beyond the town, at the vill. of 
Kagemori, is a celebrated Cave- 
temple of K wan nun. The 
stalactites here assume a variety 
of fantastic shapes to which 
realistic names are given, such 
as the Five Yiscera, the 
Dragon's Head and_Tail, the 
Lotus-flower, etc. — Omiya is 
the best starting-point for 
Buko-zan, 4,360 ft., the highest 
mountain in Chichibu ; but 
there is no special interest in; 
the ascent, and no view obtain- 
able from the forest-covered 
summit. Hikawa, situated in 
the valley of the Tamagawa 
(see Route 26), about 11 ri 
from Omiya, may be reached 
by a lonely mountain path over 
the Sengen-toge andviaNippara. 
But the most attractive route 
for enthusiastic climbers is that 
to Koshu by the Karizaka-toge. 
The distance is variously 
estimated at from 23 to 28 ri.] 

At Honjo (Inn, Izumi-ya) there 
are some important cross-country 
roads, one of which joins the Rei- 
heishi Kaido, the route formerly 
followed by the Mikado's annual 
envoy to the shrine of Ieyasu at 
Nikko. 

Shiminaclii (Inn, Mitsumata) is- 
a large silk-producing place. 

Takasaki (Inn, Sakai-ya ; Bestt.y 



Maebashi. Isobe. 



149 



:Sumiyoshi, at station) was formerly 
the castle-town of a Daimyo, and is 
still an important industrial centre. 

[The railway branches off here to 
Mael)as!ii 9 6 m., where it meets 
the Byomo line from Oyama 
(see Route 13). Maebashi (Inn 
Abura-ya ; Akagi-tei, foreign 
restt.) formerly the seat of a 
great Daimyo named Matsu- 
daira Yamato-no-Kami, is now 
the capital of the prefecture of 
Gumma, and a great empo- 
rium of the silk trade, one of 
the best qualities of raw silk 
being named after this town. 
The extensive silk-reeling fac- 
tories can be seen on applica- 
tion. To the N. rises the extinct 
volcano of Akagi-san, and W. 
is the curious group of moun- 
tains collectively called Haru- 
na, on the N. flank of which 
are situated the fashionable 
baths of Ikao, described in 
Route 12. Within a short dis- 
tance of Maebashi station 
stands one of the largest con- 
vict prisons in Japan, whose 
brick wall 20 ft. high encloses 
11 acres of land.] 

Iiznka is a station at the W. end 
of Takasaki, some distance from 
the business part of the town. It 
lies on one of the roads to Ikao. 

Auiiaka was formerly a castle- 
town. Two hrs. distant by jinriki- 
sha is Tomioka, a thriving place, 
which boasts the largest silk filature 
in the Empire established in 1872 
under French direction. 

Isobe (Inns, *Kyoju-kwan, Haya- 
shi-ya, and others). This is the 
best station to alight at for a visit to 
the remarkable conglomeration of 
rocks that crown Myogi-san. But 
travellers coming eastwards from 
Karuizawa need not go beyond 
Matsuida station, the distance from 
each of these two places to Myogi 
being nearly the same. Isobe is 
reached in 4 hrs. by rail, and 
Myogi by road in 1J hr. more ; and 



as less than a day is required for 

seeing the marvels of the mountain, 
the journey from the capital and 
back may thus be accomplished in 
a day and a half. 

Isobe is a watering-place of recent 
growth, lying in a wide valley less 
than 1,000 ft. above the level of 
the sea. Exposed as it is on all 
sides, it is neither mild in winter 
nor cool in summer. The mineral 
waters of Isobe, which are cold, 
contain a large quantity of carbonic 
acid gas, and, unlike most other 
Japanese springs, are beneficial to 
persons suffering from catarrh of the 
stomach and other internal com- 
plaints. On the road to Myogi, a good 
view is obtained of Akagi-san and 
Haruna-san to the N., and Asama- 
yama to the W. If the visit be 
made in autumn, the precipitous 
sides of the Myogi range will be 
found in a glow of rich colour 
arising from the crimson tints of 
the maples that mingle with the 
variegated leaves of other trees. 

Myogi (Inns, Shishi-ya, Kambe- 
ya) is an insignificant village. 

The shrine at Myogi is dedicated to the 
memory of the 13th abbot of Enryakuji, 
a temple on Hiei-zan near Kyoto, who, in 
the reign of the Emperor Daigo (A.D. 898- 
930), retired here to mourn over the 
sudden downfull and banishment of his 
pupil, the famous Sugawara-no-Michizane. 
After his death, he was deified under 
the title of Myogi Dai G-ongen . Over two 
centuries ago, a fresh fit of zeal on the 
part of his devotees was the cause of the 
shrine being rebuilt in the grand style of 
which traces still remain. It is now in 
charge of Shinto priests. 

The temple stands a short distance 
above the village, in the midst of 
a grove of magnificent crypto- 
merias. The Oku-no-in lies 25 cho 
further up the mountain, and above 
this the cliffs are nearly perpen- 
dicular. A rocky cave, formed 
by a huge block resting in a fissure, 
contains an image of the god. On 
the summit of one of the jutting 
peaks near the Oku-no-in, is the 
enormous Chinese character ^ (dai)j 
"great," whose dimensions are 
stated at 30 ft. by 20 ft. It is con- 



150 



Route 11. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama. 



structed of thin bamboos, tied to- 
gether and covered with strips of 
paper, the votive offerings of pil- 
grims, which give it the appearance 
from below of being painted white. 
The surrounding scenery is weird 
and romantic. Prom the bosom of a 
gloomy grove rise innumerable rocky 
pinnacles, gradually increasing in 
height round a lofty central peak, 
the whole vaguely recalling the 
front of some colossal Gothic 
cathedral. 

Dr. Naumann describes Myogi-san as a 
system of grand acute-edged, deeply ser- 
rated dykes, apparently radiating from a 
common centre, whose highest summit is 
about 3,880 ft. in height. Probably it is 
the skeleton of a very old volcano. 

The ascent of the highest peak 
visible from the vill. can be ac- 
complished in less than half a 
day. To scale this peak is a 
rather dangerous undertaking. 
Those, however, who appreciate 
the delights of rough and difficult 
climbing, ought not to miss the 
opportunity of mounting Hakun- 
20,11, the jagged ridge rising directly 
above the village. The S. wing is 
called Kinkei-san, Kinto-san lying 
between the two. The highest point 
of Myogi-san is behind Hakun-zan. 
JRosoku-ishi, "the Candle-Stone," is 
a conspicuous projection belonging 
to Kinkei-san and forming the 
JST.W. termination of tins dyke. It 
takes about 1$ hr. to get from the 
vill. to Daikoku-san, the way there 
leading over the pass between Kin- 
kei-san and Kinto-san. A gigantic 
natural arch, called Ichi no Seki- 
mon, is passed on this way. Ni no 
Sekimon and San no Sekimon are 
clefts in the mountain further on, 
readied after a breakneck climb. 
The perforation in Ni-no-Sekimon 
is invisible from this side of the 
mountain, but is to be seen from 
Yokokawa and the Usui-toge. 

According to local tradition, the hole 
■was made by an arrow shot from the bow 
of a certain Yuriwaka Daijin while stand- 
ing at the vill. of Yokokawa. 

The Hige-suri-iwa, or " Beard- 
Scraping Rock," is a slender 



column of volcanic breccia, the- 
last 10 ft. of the climb up which 
is achieved with the assistance of 
an iron chain and ladder. From 
this coign of vantage, the lofty peak 
of Naka-iio-take and many other 
curious rocks are visible. The 
modern-looking edifice below the 
Hige-suri-iwa was built for the 
priests, after the burning of the two 
temples in 1872. 

Leaving Myogi, the railway may 
be rejoined at Matsnida ; or else 
one may walk on for 2 ri to a 
point a little further along the 
Nakasendo near 

Yokokawa {Inns, Ogino-ya, Ko- 
dake-ya, both at the station). 



ROUTE 11. 

Kaeuizawa and Asama-yama. 

1. — Kaeuizawa and Neibourhood. 

Karuizawa is reached from Tokyo- 
by Railway (see p. 148), 5J hrs. 

The construction of the 7 miles of rail- 
way leading to Karuizawa over the Usui 
Pass presented greater difficulties than 
any that had hitherto been contended 
with by engineers in Japan, and for this 
reason a hiatus remained in the middle of 
the line to the West Coast -until 1893, 
when the Abt system, with its cog-wheels 
working on rack-rails, was successfully 
introduced. The gradient is 1 in 15, and 
almost the whole way a succession of 
bridges and tunnels, the total tunnelling 
aggregating 2f miles. The great viaduct 
over the Usui-gawa has four arches, each 
of 60 ft. opening; and the height of the 
rails from the valley is 110 ft. It was 
designed by Mr. C. A. W*. Pownall, M. 
Inst, C. E., Principal Engineer to the 
Imperial Railway Department. 

Shin-Karnizawa (Inn, Abura- 
ya), the station, lies J hr. by jin- 
rikisha from the summer resort, 

Kyii-Kamizawa {Inn, Bansho- 
kwan), lying in the upper corner of a 
grassy moor, 780 ft. below the sum- 
mit of the Usui pass. The vill. was 
in former times principally depen- 



Walks from Kamizatua. . 



151 



dent upon travellers over the an- 
cient highway, and appears to have 
just escaped ruin, after the con- 
struction of the railway, by a 
number of the foreign residents of 
Tokyo making it a retreat from the 
unhealthy heat of the city during 
the summer months. The old inns 
have been hired, and many new 
villas built on the mountain slopes. 
Facilities exist for European food 
and washing. Karuizawa's lofty 
situation (3,270 ft.) gives it a tem- 
perature seldom excessive during 
the day, and invariably cool at 
night. The rainfall bears favourable 
comparison with Nikko and other 
mountain resorts, and owing to the 
porous nature of the soil in the 
vicinity, leaves fewer traces behind. 
The place is nevertheless not free 
from mosquitoes, and the small 
sand-fly called buyu abounds, — an 
insect which inflicts a bite, painless 
at first, but afterwards extremely 
irritable and liable to swell during 
several succeeding days. Riding 
may be enjoyed over an uncultivat- 
ed moor covered with wild-flowers 
in July and August, which extends 
for miles in a southerly direction, 
and terminates on the E. in a 
range of grassy hills. 

The chief excursion from Karui- 
zawa is the ascent of Asama-yama 
(see next page), and the railway 
affords opportunities for visiting the 
romantically situated monastery of 
Shakusonji near Komoro, the 
famous Buddhist temple of Zenkoji 
at Nagano, and the mountains 
beyond (see Rte. 25). There is a 
variety of shorter walks, viz. 

1. To the Top of the Ustii-tojsre, 
1J m. by a fair road. Asama, the 
Shirane-san and Koma-ga-take of 
Koshu, Yatsu-ga-take, and Tate- 
shina-yama are seen on the way 
up. On the summit stand a few 
houses and a small temple, whose 
steps are the best place to obtain 
the view. 

In this spot is localised the following- 
legend., preserved in the Kojihi : — 
When Yamato-take (see p. 66 ) i was .cross- 



ing- from Sag-ami to Kazusa, while on his 
expedition against the barbarous tribes 
who then inhabited that region, he ridi- 
culed the name of 11a shiri-mizu ("Running' 
Water") given to the strait, and exclaimed 
that it was no more than an easy jump 
across. The Sea-God, offended at this 
insult, so disturbed the waters that Ya- 
mato-take's ship was unable to advance. 
Upon this, his consort Oto-Tachib»na- 
Hime said to him, " I will drown myself in 
thy stead " — and as she plunged into the 
sea, the waves became still. iSeven days 
afterwards her comb floated ashore. The 
prince built a tomb, and deposited the 
comb therein. On returning- to the capital 
after subduing the tribes, he stopped to 
r^st at the top of the Usui Pass, and 
gazing over the plain, said thrice in a 
melancholy voice : l *Azumawaya ,> (''Alas! 
my wife"), whence the name of Azuma by 
which Eastern Japan is still known. 

2. Atago-yama. This isolated 
hill, j hr. walk from the vill., is 
ascended by two flights of stone 
steps, and has some curious perpen- 
dicular rocks half-way up. 

3. Hanare-yama, about l m. off. 
On its E. side, near the summit, 
is a large cave tenanted by bats, 
which has to be reached by a very 
rough climb up a precipitous land- 
slip. The view from the narrow ledge 
at the mouth of the cave is ex- 
tensive. 

4. Iriyama-tdgf!, 1 hr., by the. 
base of the hills skirting the moor, 
and past the curious rock called 
Kamado-iwa by the Japanese, and 
Pulpit Rock by foreigners. The 
summit commands probably the 
finest view obtainable of the valley 
leading towards Myogi-san, and, 
looking backwards, of the wide 
stretch of moorland at the base of 
Asama-yama. 

5. WaBti'ttige and Kosoku-iwa. 
From the foot of the Iriyama-toge, 
the path keeps to the r., and in -J 
hr. more the road from Oiwake 
over the Wami-toge is reached. The 
ascent is easy. After a short but 
steep descent on the opposite side, 
a path 1. leads to the hamlet of 
Ongawa situated at the base of the 
Bosoku-iwa, aptly re-named by 
foreigners " the Cathedral Rocks,' 7 
and remarkable for the petrified 
wood found in the neighbourhood. 



152 



Route 11. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama. 



These rocks are most easily ap- 
proached from Ongawa. Instead 
of returning the way one came, 
a pleasant round may be made 
by taking a tortuous hill path lead- 
ing down deep into the Iriyama 
valley, from which Karuizawa may 
be regained by the Iriyama-toge ; — 
or by pursuing a downward course 
from Ongawa, the hamlet of Arai, 
at the lower end of the Iriyama 
valley, may be reached. From this 
point it is a little over 1 ri to 
Yokokawa, whence train. In any 
case the excursion will occupy the 
greater part of a day. 

6. Kiritsumi (Irm, Chosei-kwan). 
The thermal springs of this place 
are reached after a 3 hrs. walk via 
the Usui Pass. Not far from the 
summit a narrow path turns 1., 
leading up and down a succession 
of wooded mountain gorges, till the 
final descent is made into the vale 
in which Kiritsumi nestles at a 
height of 3,200 ft. These baths may 
be more conveniently reached by a 
jinrikisha road from Yokokawa, 2J 
ri. The way is pretty, but the view 
shut out on all sides. The water 
of Kiritsumi is slightly saline, 
with a temperature of 104 F. Higher 
up, in a neighbouring valley, is the 
old-fashioned watering-place of Iri- 
no-yu with accommodation only for 
peasant guests. The baths are sul- 
phurous and have a high tempera- 
ture. 

7. Yiinosawa, J hr., by a path 
leading from the centre of the vill. 
towards Asama-yama. In the small 
house here a bath may be had, tepid 
mineral water being brought from 
the hill beyond. Continuing along 
the same path, which soon leads 
over more elevated ground and 
passes through beautiful stretches 
of forest, the baths of 

8. Kose are reached in about 
1 hr. Kose is a tiny hamlet in a 
fold of the hills, but possesses a 
commodious inn. Just before enter- 
ing Kose (from Karuizawa), two 
paths turn to the 1. The first leads 
to Kutsukake on the Nakasendo and 



is a pleasant walk of 1 \ hr., mostly 
by the side of a stream. Kutsukake 
is 3f m. from Karuizawa. The other 
path — the one nearer to Kose — is a 
narrow track, which, after travers- 
ing the forest, emerges on grassy 
mountain slopes, and ascends 
Hana-magari - yama, commanding 
various fine views. It then de- 
scends steeply into Kiritsumi, to 
which vill. This is a longer but more 
picturesque route than the one 
given above. 

2. — Asama-yama. 

Asama-yama (8,280 ft.) is not 
only the largest active volcano in 
Japan, but also the most accessible. 
The excursion to the top and back 
may be made from Karuizawa in 
one day. 

The last great eruption occurred in the 
summer of 1783, when a vast stream of 
lava destroyed a primeval forest of con- 
siderable extent, together with several 
villages on the N. side. Subsequent 
eruptions have produced mere showers 
of ashes. At the foot of the steep cone 
the subterranean disturbances can be 
distinctly heard, and the sulphurous 
exhalations near the summit often make 
this part of the ascent rather oppressive. 

The ascent by the Wakasare-no- 
Chaya road, a hut on the way to 
Kusatsu, is the one now usually 
preferred, and is certainly the least 
fatiguing. The best plan is to hire 
horses at Karuizawa, where foreign 
saddles may be procured, ride via 
Kutsukake {Inn, Tsuchi-ya) to Ko- 
Asama 2 J hrs., — the excrescence on 
the mountain side, — and walk up by 
the Wakasare-no-chaya path. The 
climb is steep, but the path a good 
solid one of cinders, marked at inter- 
vals by small cairns. The time 
taken to the lip of the crater is 
about 3 hrs. 

The crater is circular, some J 
m. in circumference, with sides per- 
pendicular, honeycombed, and 
burnt to a red hue, while sulphur- 
ous steam wells up from the bottom 
and from numerous crevices in the 
walls. On the S. side of the mountain 
rise two precipitous rocky ramparts, 







,-*—-;'. - - * "-- v^V" "'■ 









■i'lim Am iWo&SS'i} 



"#6,™ 



^jw 






^c. 



Route 12. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood. 



153 



separated by a considerable interval, 
the outer one being lower and nearly 
covered with vegetation. They 
seem to be the remains of two suc- 
cessive concentric craters, the 
existing cone being the third and 
most recent. The nearer is quite 
bare, and columnar in structure at 
the centre. The side of the cone is 
strewn with large rough fragments 
of loose lava, and unfathomable 
rifts extend for the greater part of 
the way down to its base. The 
view from the summit is very ex- 
tensive: — to the N., the whole of 
the Kotsuke mountains, with the 
Haruna group and Akagi-san ; the 
Nikko range and the E. range 
dividing Shinshu from Kotsuke ; 
the sea far away in the distance ; 
next the Koshu mountains on the 
S., with Fuji peering over them; 
the conical Yatsu-ga-take and ad- 
jacent summits of Koshu ; and then 
on the W., the huge range that 
forms the boundary between Shin- 
shu and Hida. The descent to the 
Wakasare-no-chaya takes \\ hr. 

Another way up, also occupying 
about 5 J hr., is from Oiwake (Inn, 
Nakamura-ya), a vill. on the Naka- 
sendo, 2 ri 14 did from Karuizawa, 
and formerly a place of some note, 
but much decayed since railway 
enterprise diverted the traffic from 
the highway. On leaving Oiwake, 
the path ascends gently through 
sloping meadows covered with wild- 
flowers ; then the acclivity becomes 
greater, and gritty ash is reached. 
At an elevation of 1,145 ft. above 
Oiwake, is a cascade hidden among 
the trees that skirt a deep gorge. 
The height of the fall is about 
18 ft. ; the red colour of the water 
and of the underlying rock — vol- 
canic breccia covered with a red 
crust — gives it a strange appearance. 
At a height of 3,225 ft. above 
Oiwake, all vegetation ceases. For 
1,600 ft. more, the path proceeds 
up a steep ascent of loose ash to 
the edge of the outer ridge, which 
from the vill. below appears to be 
the summit, though in reality be- 



low it. The path then descends, 
and crosses over to the base of the 
present cone, which is more easily 
climbed. 

The ascent can also be made from 
Komoro, a station 13 J m. from Karui- 
zawa. The path leads straight across 
the fields towards the highest visible 
point of Asama, and in 1J hr. fair 
walking brings one to the crest of a 
ridge, beyond which is a deep ravine 
with a yellow brook at the bottom, 
and the path from Oiwake at about 
one's own level on the other side. 
The brook is crossed after 35 min. 
walking, when the path joins that 
from Oiwake, described above. The 
actual time taken by a good walker 
to make the ascent from Komoro 
was 5f hrs., exclusive of stoppages, 
the last 1J hr. being an extremely 
rough and steep climb. 



EOUTE 12. 

Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbour- 
hood. 

1. ikao. 2. walks and excursions 
from ikao i haruna, etc. 3. ku- 
satsu. 4. walks in the neigh- 
bourhood of kusatsu. 5. from 
kusatsu to nagano over the 
shibu-toge, ascent of shirane- 
san, the torii-toge. 

1. — Ikao. 

Ikao is a short day's journey 
from Tokyo (Ueno station) to Mae- 
bashi by the Takasaki-Maebashi 
Railway in 3 J hrs. (see p. 148) ; 
thence 6 ri 8 cho (15 m.) partly by 
tram, partly by carriage or jinriki- 
sha, but jinrikisha the whole way to 
be preferred at present. The start- 
ing place of the tram is 1J m. from 
the station. If three or four per- 



154 fioute 12. — Ikao, Kiisatsu, and Neighbourhood. 



sons are travelling together and 
have much luggage, it may be well 
to hire a private car. The latter 
part of the ride is uphill, so that 
two men to each jinrikisha are indi- 
spensable. Should the main road 
via Maebashi be impassable owing 
to floods, Ikao may also be reached 
by jinrikisha via Iizuka (the station 
at the W. end of Takasaki), 
Kaneko, and Shibukawa : — distance, 
7 ri 8 did (17f m.). 

Yet another way (6 ri or 14f m.), 
practicable for jinrikishas as far as 
Mizusawa, whence it is hilly and 
very pretty, starts from Takasaki 
and passes through the hamlets of 
Nakazato, Kashiwagi-zawa, and 
Mizusawa, and round the base of the 
lofty peak of Sengen-yama. At the 
upper end of Mizusaiva stands a 
temple dedicated to Kwannon, where 
six bronze images, life-size, on a 
revolving platform are worthy of 
notice. This is one of the Thirty- 
three Holy Places of Eastern Japan. 

Hotels. — Kindayu, Muramatsu, 
European style. There are also the 
Budaiyu, Chigira, Shimada Hachi- 
ro, and other good inns in Japanese 
style. 

Ikao, one of the best summer 
resorts in Japan, is built on ter- 
races along the N. E. slope of 
Mount Haruna, at an elevation 
varying from 2,500 to 2,700 ft. The 
picturesque main street, which di- 
vides the vill. into an eastern and 
a western part, consists of one near- 
ly continuous steep flight of steps. 
The houses W. of the steps border 
on a deep ravine called the Yusawa, 
through which rushes a foaming 
torrent. Ikao has the advantage of 
cool nights, absence of mosquitoes, 
and an unusually beautiful situa- 
tion, offering from nearly every 
house a grand view of the valleys 
of the Azuma or Agatsuma- 
gawa and Tone-gawa, and of the 
high mountain-ranges on the 
border of the great plain in 
which Tokyo is situated. From 
few places can the Nikko moun- 
tains be seen to such advan- 



tage. Ikao is famous for its 
mineral springs, which have a 
temperature of 45° C. (113° F.) r 
and which contain a small amount 
of iron and sulphate of soda. They 
have been known since prehistoric 
times, and the bath-houses pouring 
out clouds of steam form a striking 
feature of the precipitous village 
street. According to the Japanese 
style of bathing, the hot baths are 
made use of several times a day,, 
and indiscriminately by patients of 
every description. Lately the water 
has been used for drinking purposes, 
but it has little more effect than 
pure hot water. 



2.- 



- Walks and Excursions from 
Ikao. 



1. Along the Yusawa ravine to- 
Yumoto 9 about \ m., nearly level. 
Yu-moto means lit., " the Source of 
the Hot Water." Seats are erected 
for the accommodation of visitors, 
who resort there to drink of the 
mineral spring. The water, which 
at its source is quite clear, has a 
slightly inky taste. On being ex- 
posed to the air the carbonic acid 
evaporates, and part of the iron 
which the water contains is pre- 
cipitated as a yellowish mass. This 
covers the bed of the river and the 
bottom of the aqueduct, and gives to 
the water in the baths a thick, dis- 
coloured appearance. The people, 
who have great faith in the 
strengthening effects of this preci- 
pitated iron salt, place large strips 
of cotton cloth in the stream. 
When the cloth has assumed a deep 
yellow colour, it is taken out, dried, 
and used as a belt for the body. 
The mineral water is led down to 
Ikao from Yusawa in bamboo pipes. 

2. Up Koiiipim-san, £ hr. climb. 
Though of no great height, the 
top commands an extensive view, 
stretching from Shirane-san near 
Kusatsu to Tsukuba-san in Hitachi, 
and including the Mikuni and Nik- 
ko ranges, Akagi-san, and the valley 
of the Tonegawa. Just below the 



Soma*yama . Haruna . 



155 



Summit, a narrow path leads over 
the ridge to Futatsu-dake. 

3. To Mushi-yu, Sengen, Futa- 
tsu-dake, and Soma-yama. Mushi- 
yu (lit. "the Steam Bath") is so 
called from the sulphurous gases 
which here emanate from holes in 
the ground, over which huts have 
been erected for the treatment of 
rheumatic patients. The number 
of naked people generally standing 
about at Mushi-yu makes this place 
unsightly. The time taken to reach 
the baths is about f hr. Sengen- 
yama, Futatsu-dake, and Soma may 
all be ascended from Mushi-yu. An 
easier way is from the path to 
Haruna on the S. side. Chains are 
hung on the stiffest bits of both 
these ascents to assist the climber ; 
but there is not the least real 
danger. Up Futatsu-dake there is 
a path only part of the way, the rest 
being a scramble over stones and 
roots of trees. The view from the 
top of Soma (4,850 ft. above the sea 
level, 2,150 ft. above Ikao) is 
magnificent. The summit of Fuji 
appears over the Chichibu moun- 
tains nearly due S. To the W. of 
it are seen the Koshu Shirane, the 
Koma-ga-take's of Koshu and Shin- 
shu seemingly in close proximity, 
then Yatsu-ga-take, Ontake about 
W. S. W., Asama-yama a little 
to the S. of W., Yahazu-yama 
W. N. W., then the Shirane of 
Kusatsu, and a part of the Hida- 
Shinshu range. Eastwards rise 
Tsukuba-san and the Shirane of 
Nikko, with one of the peaks of 
Akagi-san half-way between them. 
The town of Maebashi is visible to 
the E. S. E., with the Tonegawa 
half encircling it before pursuing 
its course down the plain. 

4. To the pretty little waterfall 
of Benten-daki, on the stream 
which issues from Lake Haruna ; 
distance a little over 4 m. 

5. To Haruna,— about 6 m. to 
the lake, and 1J m. more on to the 
temple. This, though, rough is by 
far the prettiest walking expedition 



from Ikao. " Chairs," however, may 
be taken. 

[On the way to Haruna, a con- 
spicuous conical hill called 
Haruna Fuji is passed, the steep 
and stony ascent of which occu- 
pies about § hr. from the place 
where the path diverges. The 
near view from the summit 
is very beautiful, showing the 
lake and surrounding moun- 
tains to great advantage. The 
distant prospect includes most 
of the view already described 
as seen from Soma. The stone 
shrine on the top is very anci- 
ent. — The best plan is to make 
of this a separate expedition. 
There is grazing-ground for 
cattle on this little Fuji, and a 
dairy-farm.] 

Lake Haruna, which apparently 
occupies the site of an extinct 
crater, contains salmon and other 
fish. On its border is a tea-house 
where one may lunch. From the 
lake it is a short and easy ascent 
to the top of a pass called 
Tenjin-toge, 1,000 ft. above Ikao, 
commanding an extensive view. 
From the Tenjin-toge the path 
descends a wooded glen to the 
ancient Shinto temple of Haruna, 
situated amongst precipitous and 
overhanging volcanic rocks, in a 
grove of lofty cryptomerias. It is 
dedicated to Ho-musubi, the God of 
Fire, and Haniyasu-hime, the God- 
dess of Earth. Over the principal 
building, which is decorated with 
excellent wood-carvings (especially 
two dragons twined round the side- 
beams of the porch), hangs a huge 
rock supported on a slender base, 
which seems every moment to 
threaten the temple with destruc- 
tion. The whole site is one of the 
most weird and fantastic that can 
be imagined, nature appearing to 
have laid a wager here to perform 
quaint feats in stone, the least 
malleable of all materials. 

6. The hot springs of Shima lie 



156 Route 12. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood. 



nearly 8 ri from Ikao, so that 
a trip there involves staying 
the night. Shima may most con- 
veniently be taken en route to Kusa- 
tsu, the way being the same as far 
as 20 cho past Nakanojo on the road 
to Sawatari. Jinrikishas can be 
availed of, but must occasionally be 
alighted from. Shima includes two 
hamlets, called respectively Yama- 
guclii Onsen and Arai-yu, 8 cho 
distant from each other. Travel- 
lers are recommended not to stay 
at the former, but to go on to Arai- 
yu and put up at the inn kept by 
Tamura Mosaburo. Tho hamlet is 
picturesquely situated close to the 
river, on whose bank the springs 
which supply the baths gush forth. 
Travellers not returning to Ikao, but 
going on to Kusatsu, need not pass 
again through. Nakanojo, as there 
is a shorter cut from a place called 
Kimino. It is, however, scarcely 
passable for jinrikishas. 

7. To Asama-yania* It is a 2 
days' trip from Ikao to the volcano. 
The first day takes one by jinriki- 
sha to Iizuha (Takasaki), 7 ri 8 cho, 
whence train to Karuizawa, where 
sleep. For the ascent on the second 
day see p. 152. 

8. To Myogl-san. It is a splendid 
day's walk via Haruna-san, Kami 
Moroda, and Shimo Sannokura to 

Matsuicla on the Takasaki-Karui- 
zawa Railway, about 9 ri, whence 
1 ri more to the vill. of Myogi 
(see p. 149). Horses may be engaged 
for the baggage. 

3. Kusatsu. 

The stalwart pedestrian can walk 
over from Ikao to Kusatsu in one 
long day via Gochoda, Nakanojo, 
Sawatari, and Namazu, — a delight- 
fully picturesque expedition of over 
30 m., or else one may take a pack- 
horse. There is good accommodation 
at Nakanojo ; but should a break in 
the journey become indispensable, 
Sawatari (Inns, Fukuda, ShinKano- 
ya), a small batbiug vill. 5 ri 9 cho 
from Kusatsu, will probably be found 



the least uncomfortable place at 
which to spend the night. The baths, 
however, cannot be recommended. 

An alternative way from Ikao to 
Kusatsu is via the hamlets of Go- 
choda, Haramachi, Yokoya, and Na- 
ganohara, a distance of nearly 14 ri. 
This way is much recommended 
on account of the beautiful scenery 
of portions of the valley of the 
Agatsuma-gawa. It is practicable 
for jinrikishas from Gochoda to 
Yokoya, and for pack-horses the 
remainder of the way. There is no 
accommodation until reaching Na- 
ganohara. Instead of going via Go- 
choda, one may take the ITaruna 
Lake route and _by turning to the 
1. at the vill. of Odo, join the Hara- 
machi route a little beyond Ka- 
ivara-yu (Inn, by Hagiwara) where 
are hot springs high up on the 
river bank. 

Kusatsu can also easily be reach- 
ed from Tokyo by taking rail to 
Karuizawa (see p. 148), whence it 
is an 11 ri journey across the delight- 
ful park-like country at the base of 
Asama-yama. Time, 1-J day. 

Kusatsu (Inns, *Yamamoto-kwan, 
with good private baths; Ichii), 
3,800 ft. above sea-level, whose 
trim, cleanly appearance strongly 
recalls that of a village in the Tyrol, 
is the coolest of Japan's summer 
resorts. Visitors who, attracted by 
these considerations, may think of 
spending any time there, must 
however remember that the mineral 
waters are specially efficacious — not 
only in rheumatism, and, as re- 
cently discovered by Dr. Baelz, in 
gout — but in syphilis, leprosy, and 
other loathsome diseases, and that 
the first effect of the free sulphuric 
acid in the water is to bring out 
sores on the tender parts of the 
body. The chief constituents of the 
Kusatsu spriDgs are mineral acids, 
sulphur, iron, alum, and arsenic. 
The temperature of the springs is 
extremely high, ranging from 100° 
to 160° Fahrenheit, while the baths 
are generally 113° to 128°. The 
chief bath, called Netsu-no-yu, has 



Knsatsu. Walks in the Neighbourhood. 



157 



three divisions of increasing de- 
grees of temperature. Even the 
Japanese, inured as they are to 
scalding water, find their courage 
fail them ; and the native invalids 
are therefore taken to bathe in squads 
under a semi-military discipline to 
which they voluntarily submit. 
Soon after daylight a horn is blown 
and the bathers assemble, as many 
as can find room taking their first 
daily bath. Each is provided with 
a wooden dipper, and the " bath- 
master " directs the patients to pour 
a hundred dippers of water over 
their heads to avoid congestion. 
Attendants are on the watch, as 
fainting fits sometimes occur. Most 
curious is the sort of choric chant 
which takes place between the 
bathers and their leader on entering 
and while sitting in the bath, — a 
trial which, though lasting only 
from 3 J to 4 minutes, seems an 
eternity to their festering, agonised 
bodies. After the lapse of about 
one minute, the bath-master cries 
out, and the others all answer with 
a hoarse shout. After a little he cries 
out, " Three minutes have passed/' 
After another half-minute or so, 
" Two minutes more ! " then " One 
minute more ! " the chorus answer- 
ing each time. At last the leader 
cries " Finished ! " whereupon the 
whole mass of naked bodies rise 
from the water with an alacrity 
which he who has witnessed their 
slow, painful entry into the place 
of torture will scarcely cre- 
dit. The horn is shortly after- 
wards blown again, and the same 
process gone through by another 
batch, the bathing being continued 
from early morn till far into the 
night. The usual Kusatsu course in- 
cludes 120 baths, spread over 4 or 5 
weeks. Most patients then proceed 
for the "after-cure" to Sawatari, 5 ri 
9 cho distant, where the waters have 
a softening effect on the skin and 
quickly alleviate the terrible irrita- 
tion. Of late years, there has been 
a tendency to desert Sawatari in 
favour of Shibu (see next page). 



4. — Walks in the Neighbour- 
hood of Kusatsu. 

1. To the solfatara of Sessho- 
g*a-wara, on the slope of Moto- 
Shirane, about 1 ri. 

2. To Sai-iio-Kawara and Kori- 

daui 9 20 cho. The meaning of the 
name Sai-no-Kawara is " the River- 
bed of Souls." On its numerous 
rocks and boulders, small stones 
have been piled up by visitors as 
offerings to dead children. Among 
these rocks is one called Yurugi- 
ishi, which, notwithstanding its- 
being a huge boulder, is so nicely 
balanced that it can be moved by 
the hand. Kori-dani is so-called 
from the frozen snow which is to 
be found there even during the 
dog-days. 

3. To the small Shinto shrine of 
Suwa (Suwa nojinja), 25 cho. 

4. Via Suwa-no-jinja, Higane,. 
Kiyozuka, and Hikinuma, to Hana- 
siliki near Iriyama, with hot 
springs spurting up near a cold 
stream. About 2J ri. 

5. Part of the way to Otokn, up 
a pathless hill to a place which, 
just above thirty-three stone images 
of Kwannon, offers a magnificent 
panorama of the whole neighbour- 
ing country. Distance, about 1 ri;. 
on to Otoku, about 20 cho more. 

6. To Niimao, 1 ri. 

7. To Kosame, 1J ri on the way 
to Sawatari. 

8. To Hikage, 2 ri. 

9. To San-iio-sawa, 25 cho on 
the way to Karuizawa, and through 
a splendid forest to Haneo or to 
Maeguchi, 20 cho more. Or else 
to San-uo-sawa by the new road, 
which skirts Moto-Shirane and is 
therefore somewhat longer. A path 
leads hence, 10 cho, up one of the 
spurs of Moto-Shirane to a small 
stone shrine with a fine view of 
Asama-yama and other mountains. 

10. Shiran e-san 9 

Shira-ne signifies White Peak, which 
accounts for there being several moun- 
tains of this name in Japan. 

a volcano over 7,000 ft., forms a 



158 Route I2.->—Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood. 



pleasant day's expedition via Ses- 
sho-gaivara, the path leading through 
a remarkable skeleton forest, whose 
every bough and twig, though per- 
fect in shape, remains blasted by 
the fumes exhaled during the last 
eruption. The crater is oval in 
slmpe, its longer diameter being 
about 500 yds., and its breadth 150 
to 200 yds. The walls are very 
steep ; but on the E. side is a depres- 
sion through which travellers can en- 
ter. The sulphurous lake, bubbling 
and seething, is a most remarkable, 
sight. It is 3 acres in extent, and 
consists entirely of hydrochloric 
acid, with iron and alum, only 
waiting to be diluted in order 
to form an excellent lemonade. 

It would be possible to take the 
ascent of Shirane-san on the way 
to Shibu, but the day would be an 
extremely long one, as the volcano 
is considerably off the road. 

,5. — Kusatsu to Nagano over the 
Shibu-toge. The Torii-toge. 

Itinerary. 

KUSATSU to:— Bi. Chd. M. 

Top of Shibu-toge. 2 32 7 

SHIBU 3 22 8f 

Toyono (Station). .5 — 12J 

NAGANO 2 29 6| 

Total 14 11 35 



On foot or on pack-horse as far 
as Shibu (2,250 ft. above the sea) ; 
thence basha or jinrikisha to Toyo- 
no ; thence train to Nagano. 

This route affords splendid 
scenery. The best plan is to 
sleep at SMbu (Bins, *Tsubata-ya 
and others), catching {Hie train at 
Toyono next-day. Those who do 
not care to visit the temple of Zen- 
koji at Nagano, can continue on by 
rail to Karuizawa and Tokyo. The 
route is one specially recommended 
to those who have been taking the 
sulphur baths at Kusatsu. Instead 
of going for the "after-cure" to 
Sawatari — the usual Japanese 
routine — they can stay en route at 



Shibu, where there are thermal 
springs suitable to their needs, and 
be far more comfortable, as it is 
one of the cleanest watering-places 
in Japan. 

The extreme picturesqueness of 
the road from Kusatsu to Shibu is 
purchased at the expense of a long 
climb. The descent from the top 
of the pass to the vill. of Shibu is 
also long and steep. The following 
mountains come in sight : — Myokd- 
zan in Echigo, Kurohime, Toga- 
kushi-san, and Izuna. Some 25 
chd from Shibu is an interesting 
geyser (Ojigoku) in the river bed. 

An alternative way to Nagano 
from Kusatsu is over the Yamada- 
toge, which is comparatively short, 
and where the baths of Yamada 
may be visited. Another is over 
the Torii-toge. Both of these 
descend to the vill. of Suzaka. 
The itinerary of the Torii-toge 
route is as follows : 

KUSATSU to:— Bi. Chd. M. 

Mihara 2 6 5J 

Ozasa « 2 30 7 

Tashiro 1 18 3| 

Torii-toge .. 30 2 

Nire 4 24 11 J 

Suzaka 1 29 4£ 

NAGANO 3 11 8 

Total 17 4 41f 



This so-called pass is but a gentle 
ascent of 50 chd. The prettiest part 
of the route is on the far side of it, 
where, after leaving the vill. of Nire, 
the monotony of grassy hills shut- 
ting out all distant prospect is ex- 
changed for charming views of the 
mountains on the borders of Echigo. 
Jinrikishas can be obtained at 
Suzaka for the remainder of the 
journey, during which the volcanic 
cone of Madarao, besides other 
mountains mentioned above, are 
visible. 



Route 13.— The Ryomo Railway. 



159 



EOUTE 13. 



The Eyomo Railway. 



TEMPLE-CAVES OF IZURU. 
OF AKAGI-SAN.] 



[ASCENT 



3p£ 


Names 




of 


Remarks. 




Stations. 






TOKYO (Ueno). 


C See Northern 


43 m. 


Oyama 


< Railway, 
(. Route 68. 






54f 


Tochigi. 




60 


Iwafune. 


("Alight for 


64| 


SANO 


< c a v e s of 
(. Izuru. 


71f 


Ashikaga. 




77 


Omata. 




81 


Kiryu. 








rRoad to Nik- 


83 


OMAMA 


< ko by Wata- 
(. rase-gawa. 






87 


Kunisada. 




91 


Iseaaki. 




94| 


Komakata. 




99i 


MAEBASHI. 





This line of railway, branching 
off from the Northern line at Oya- 
ma, which is reached in 2J hrs. 
from Tokyo, traverses the provinces 
of Kofcsuke and Shimotsuke. It 
affords an alternative, though 
longer, railway route from Tokyo 
to Maebashi, and is the easiest way 
of reaching the hot springs of Ikao 
in one day from Nikko. The scenery 
is pretty all along the route. 

Toelligi (Inns, Kanahan, Yoshi- 
kawa-ya) is one of the most im- 
portant towns in Shimotsuke. Its 
chief product is hempen thread. 

Sano or Temmyo (Inns, Saito, 
Kiku-ya) is a pretty and prosperous 
place. Its Public Park lies close to 
the station. There also exist the 
ruins of a castle built by Hidesato 
about 900 years ago. 

[From Sano an excursion may 
be made to the very curious 
limestone caverns of Izuru, 
where a temple dedicated to 
Kwannon was founded by Sho- 



do Shonin in the 8th centuryi 
In these caves the saint is 
fabled to have taken up his 
abode, and passed three years 
in prayer and meditation. They 
are about 6 ri distant from 
Sano on a mountain route to 
Nikko. Jinrikishas are prac- 
ticable most of the way to the 
caves. From the vill. of Izuru, 
it is a walk of 2 cho up a ravine 
to the cave called Daishi no 
Iwaya, the mouth of which 
is high up amongst the precipi- 
tous rocks, and is only to be 
reached by ladders. Further on 
is the cave sacred to Kwannon, 
reached by climbing over steep 
rocks with the assistance of 
chains, and then by ladders 
up to a platform on which 
stand images of Daikoku and 
Shodo Shonin. The guide 
lights candles and shows the 
way into the cave, which con- 
tains a large stalactite sup- 
posed to resemble a back view 
of the body of Kwannon. The 
cave is evidently much deeper, 
but pilgrims do not usually go 
further in. Close by is a 
hollow in the rock, with two 
issues. The guide climbs up 
a ladder to the upper hole, gets 
inside, and after a minute or 
two appears, head first, out of 
the lower. Half a did further 
is another cave, named after 
the god Dainichi Nyorai, and 
having two branches, — one 
about 50 yds. deep, the other 
penetrating for an unknown dis- 
tance into the mountain.] 

The silk goods produced at Sano, 
although similar in kind to those of 
Ashikaga, are much finer in quality. 

Ashikaga (Inn, Sagami-ro) is a 
great centre of the trade in native 
cotton and silk goods, the former, 
however, mostly woven from foreign 
yarns. 

Ashikaga was celebrated for its Aca- 
demy of Chinese Learning {Ashikaga Gak- 
kb), the foundation of which institution is 



160 



Boute 13. — Ashikaga. Ascent of Almgi-san. 



traditionally ascribed to the eminent 
scholar Ono-no-Takanmra (A.D. 801—852). 
It reached the zenith of its prosperity in 
the time of the Shoguns of the Ashikaga 
dynasty, its last great benefactor being 
Uesugi Norizane who died in 1573. This 
Academy possessed a magnificent library 
of Chinese works, and was the chief 
centre of Chinese erudition and of the 
worship of Confucius until the establish- 
ment of the Seido at Yedo (p, 102). Most 
of the books are now dispersed, but the 
image of Confucius still attracts visitors. 

Kiryfi (Inns, Kanaki-ya, Yama- 
ne), is a large town, about 2 ri 
from its railway station. The chief 
products are crape, gauze, and 
Jmbutai, a silk fabric resembling 
taffety. The large manufactory 
here, called the Nippon Orimono 
Kwaisha, is worth inspection. It is 
furnished with French machinery 
for the manufacture of satins in 
European style. A canal has been 
cut to bring water from the neigh- 
bouring hills expressly for the use 
of this factory. 

Omama (Inn, Tsuru-ya) is situat- 
ed near the foot of Akagi-san. The 
picturesque road from here to the 
copper mines of Ashio by the valley 
of the Watarase-gawa is described 
in Route 15. Omama itself is a long 
straggling town, and, like the other 
places on this railway route, of 
little general interest, being entirely 
devoted to sericulture. Incon- 
venience is caused by the fact that 
the railway station lies over 1 ri 
from the town. Travellers coming 
down the Watarase-gawa must 
allow for this. 

[The extinct volcano of Akagi- 
san is best ascended from the 
vill. of Ogo, 3 ri 9 cho from 
Omama, whence the climb will 
take from 3| to 4 hrs. Leav- 
ing the upper end of Ogo vill. the 
path ascends gently for about 
1J hr. through hamlets, and 
then over a moor dotted with 
fir-trees to a large stone torii, 
and thence on to the hamlet of 
Miyazawa. The remainder of 
the way is also an_easy climb. 
About 3 hrs. from Ogo we reach 



a grassy knoll where the path 
divides, the 1. branch going to 
one of the peaks of Akagi known 
as Nabeivari, the other leading 
to a lake about 2§m. in circum- 
ference, and bean-shaped, with 
a small island in it. The peak ri- 
sing just above this grassy knoll 
is Arayama, 4,830 ft. in height, 
which can be ascended in about 
f hr. The summit commands a 
grand panorama of moun- 
tains: — Fuji S. S. W., Kaigane- 
san (part of the Koshu Shirane- 
san) S. W., the numerous peaks 
of Yatsu-ga-take withTateshina 
nearly W. S. W., Asama-yama 
due W., and the Kusatsu Shi- 
rane about W. N. W. Nearly 
due N. rises Hodaka-san, one of 
the loftiest peaks in Kotsuke, 
easily recognised by its double 
top. The descent from Ara- 
yama on the N. side is very 
steep, but not dangerous, and 
the path is well-marked. From 
the knoll above referred to, 
the main path skirts the E. 
base of Arayama, and, travers- 
ing a grassy moorland basin, 
crosses a col to the temple 
(Daido) on the margin of the 
lake. About 2,000 yds. to the 
r. of the path is a tarn called 
Konuma, the level of which 
must be from 250 to 300 ft. 
higher than that of the larger 
lake.] 

Maebaslii, see p. 149. 



JffiTOGE 



" y * 



M 



v. 






1 I 



Route 14.— Nikko and Neighbourhood. 



161 



ROUTE 14. 

Nikko and Neighbourhood. 
1. general information. 2. chief 
objects of interest. 3. objects 
of minor interest. 4. walks 
in the neighbourhood. 5. ke- 
gon-no-taki, chu zenji, nantai- 
zan, and yumoto. 6. ascent of 
shirane-san, and of 6-manago 
and nantai-zan from yumoto. 
1. — General Information, 

A popular Japanese proverb says, 
" Do not use the word magnificent 
till you have seen Nikko: " 

Nikko wo minai uchi wa, 
" Kekko " to iu na ! 

Nikko's is a double glory — a glory 
of nature and a glory of art. 
Mountains, cascades, monumental 
forest trees, had always stood there. 
To these, in the 17th century, were 
added the mausolea of the illustrious 
Shogun Ieyasu, founder of the 
Tokugawa dynasty, and of his 
scarcely less famous grandson Ie- 
mitsu. 

Japanese wood-carving, and paint- 
ing on wood being then at their 
zenith, the result was the most 
perfect assemblage of shrines in the 
whole land. But though there is 
gorgeousness, there is no gaudiness. 
That sobriety which is the key-note 
of Japanese taste, gives to all the 
gay designs and bright colours its 
own chaste character. 

Properly speaking, Nikko is the 
name, not of any single place, but 
of a whole mountainous district 
lying about 100 miles to the N. of 
Tokyo. Nevertheless, when people 
speak of going to Nikko, they ge- 
nerally mean going to one of the 
villages called Hachi-ishi and Iri- 
machi, between which stand the 
Mausolea. Lying 2,000 ft. above 
the sea, Nikko is a delightful 
summer resort, for which reason 
many foreign residents of Tokyo 
have villas there, or else at 



Chuzenji (4,385 ft.), 7J m. further 
on. The only drawback to the 
climate is the frequent rain. 
Within a radius of 15 miles there 
are no less than twenty-five or 
thirty pretty cascades. Nikko is 
noted, among other things, for the 
glorious tints of its autumn foliage. 
Nikko is reached in 5 hrs. from 
Tokyo by the Northern Railway, 
carriages being changed at Utsuno- 
miya, where the Nikko branch turns 
off. 

Nikko Branch Line. 



1 a> 






£ ox 


Names 
of 


Remarks. 


B H 


Stations. 








r See North- 




TOKYO (Ueno)... 


3 ern Rail- 


65|m. 


UTSUNOMIYA. 


1 way, Route 

km. 


69| 


Togami. 




74| 


Kanuma. 




79| 


Fubasami. 




86f 


Imaichi. 




90$ 


NIKKO (Hachi- 
ishi). 





The railway diverges to the W. 
in order to tap the JReiheishi Kaido 
at the thriving town of Kanuma, 
and following that highway lined 
with ancient cryptomeriaa, does not 
come in sight of the other and still 
more imposing avenue ( Nikko 
Kaido), 20 m. in length, leading 
from Utsunomiya to Nikko, until 
Imaichi is reached, where the two 
roads join. 

The JReiheishi Kaido was so called be- 
cause in old days the Reiheishi, or Envoy 
of the Mikado, used to travel along" it, 
bearing gifts from his Imperial master to 
be offered at the Mausoleum of Ieyasu. 

Pine views of the Nikko mountains 
are obtained on the r. between 
Utsunomiya and Togami ; later, 
Nantai-zan alone is seen towering 
above a lower range in the fore- 
ground ; then the lofty cryptornerias 
of the Reiheishi Kaido, close to 
which the railway runs, shut out 
the prospect until a break occurs 10 
min. beyond Fubasami, when the 
whole mass appears on the 1. ahead. 



162 



Route 14. — Nikko and Neighbourhood. 



The village of Ilachiishi, being a 
long one, and the railway only touch- 
ing its lower end, there remains a 
stretch of 1J m. to be done by 
jinrikisha from the station to the 
hotels. 

Hotels.— *Kanaya Hotel, *Nikko 
Hotel, *Arai, Suzuki, all in European 
style ; Konishi-ya, Kamiyama, Jap. 
style. Foreign stores and fresh 
meat can be obtained at Masaju in 
the vtiL, close to the Red Bridge. 

Means of conveyance. — Chairs, 
Jcagos, or pack-horses can be taken 
to such places as are not accessible 
by jinrikisha. There is a fixed 
scale of charges. 

Guides are in attendance at the 
Hotels, and will arrange for the 
purchase of tickets of admittance to 
the Mausolea. Additional small 
charges are made at various points 
within the building. Membership 
of the Hokdrkwai, or Nikko Preser- 
vation Society ($5) confers the per- 
manent privilege of admission to all 
the temples without further fees. 
The Mausolea of the Shoguns are 
open daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. 
Visitors must remove their boots at 
the entrance of the main shrines. 

Nikko is a mart for skins of the 
badger, deer, marten, wild-boar, etc., 
and various pretty articles made of 
a black fossil wood (jindai-boku) 
brought from Sendai in the north. 

History. — The range of mountains 
known as Nikko-zan li-s on the N.YV. 
boundary of the province of Shimotsuke. 
The original name was Futa-ara-yama, 
which, when written with Chinese ideo- 
graphs, may also be pronounced Ni-ko-zan. 
According to the popular account, the 
name was derived from periodical hurri- 
canes in spring and autumn, which issued 
from a great cavern on Nantai-zan, the 
mountain to the N. E. of Chuzenji. In 
A.D. 8-20 Kot'.o Daishi visited the spot, 
made a road to the neighbourhood of the 
cavern, and changed the name of the 
range to Nikl<o-zan, or '* Mountains of the 
Sun's Brightness," from which moment 
the storms ceased to devastate the 
country. Up to the end of the 17th cen- 
tury, a family of Shinto priests named 
Ono used to visit the cavern twice yearly 
to perform certain exorcisms, the secret 
of which had been imparted to their an- 
cestor by Kobo Daishi. A cavern situated 
high up on the face of an inaccessible 



cliff, just beyond the hamlet of TJma- 
gaeshi on the way to Chuzenji, is pointed 
out as the cave in question. Another 
explanation of the name Futa-ara-yama, 
is that it means " The Two Raging 
Mountains," in allusion to the two vol- 
canoes which form part of it, viz., Nantai- 
zan and Shirane-san. beyond Yumoto. 
But though the latter breaks out at fre- 
quent intervals, no eruptions have taken 
place from Nantai-zan within memory of 
man. 

From the earliest ages of which any 
trustworthy record remains, a Shinto 
temple existed at Nikko, which was after- 
wards removed to Utsunomiya. In the 
year 767, the first Buddhist temple was 
erected by the saint Shodo Shonin, Later 
on, in the beginning of the 9th century, 
Kobo Daishi, and in the middle of the 
same century the abbot Jigaku Daishi, 
added to the holy places. The following 
account of Shodo Shonin is summarised 
from a memoir written by his disciples 
the year after his death. He was born 
at Takaoka near the B. boundary of Shi- 
motsuke, in the year 735. His parents 
had long desired to have a son, and at 
last their wish was granted by the Thou- 
sand-Handed Kwannon of the Izuru 
Caves, to whom they had prayed for off- 
spring. Various portents accompanied 
his birth : — loud thunder was heard, a 
miraculous cloud hung over the cottage, 
flowers fell from heaven into the court- 
yard, and a strange perfume filled the air. 
From his earliest years the saint was 
devoted to the worship of the gods, and 
amused himself by raising toy pagodas 
and shriues of earth and stones, which 
gained for him the nickname of "temple 
builder" among his companions. In his 
twentieth year he secretly quitted his 
father's house, and took up his abode in 
the cave of the Thousand-Handed Kwan- 
non at Izuru. After passing three years 
in prayer and meditation, he dreamt in 
mid-winter of a great mountain N. of 
Izuru, on the top of which lay a sword 
more than 3 ft. in length. On awaking, 
he left the cave, and endeavoured to 
make his way in the direction indicated ; 
but the deep snow opposed difficulties 
almost insurmountable. Vowing to sacri- 
fice his life rather than abandon the en- 
terprise, he persevered, and at last reach- 
ed a point from which he beheld the 
object of his search. Ascending to the 
top of the mountain, he gave himself up 
to austere discipline, living on fruits 
which were brought to him by a super- 
natural being. After thus passing three 
more years, he returned to Izuru, and in 
762 visited the temple of YaJ:ushi-ji, not 
far from Ishibashi on the Oshu Kaido, 
where, meeting some Chinese priests, he 
was admitted by them as a novice. He 
remained in the monastery for five years, 
and then returned to the mouutain now 
called Kobu-ga-hara. From its summit 
he beheld, oh the range to the N., four 



lit!!** tejbM 



;^^B i 



^8^ .,. p 



^ 



JSP 




-v 







History. 



163 



miraculous clouds of different colours 
rising straight up into the sky, and he 
at once set off to reach them, carrying 
his holy books and images in a bundle on 
his back. On reaching the spot whence 
the clouds had seemed to ascend, he 
found his advance barred by a broad 
river, which poured its torrent over huge 
rocks and looked utterly impassable. 
The saint fell upon his knees and prayed, 
whereupon there appeared on the opposite 
bank a divine being of colossal size, 
dressed in blue and black robes, and 
having a string of skulls hung round his 
neck. This being cried out that he would 
help him to pass the stream, as he had 
once helped the Chinese pilgrim Hsiian 
Chuang across the River of Flowing Sand. 
With this promise, he flung across the 
river two green and blue snakes which 
he held in his right hand, and in an 
instant a long bridge was seen, to span 
the waters, like a rainbow floating among 
the hills ; but when the saint crossed it 
and reached the northern bank, both the 
god and the snake-bridge suddenly 
vanished. Having thus attained the ob- 
ject of his desires, Shodo Shonin built 
himself a hut wherein to practise his 
religious exercises. One night a man 
appeared to him in a vision, and told him 
that the hill rising to the north was called 
the Mount of the Four Gods, and was 
inhabited by the Azure Dragon, the Ver- 
milion Bird, the White Tiger, and the 
Sombre Warrior, who respectively occu- 
pied its E., S., W. and N. peaks. He 
climbed the hill, and found that he had 
arrived at the poal of his journey ; for 
there were the four clouds which he had 
originally set out to seek, rising up around 
him. He proceeded accordingly to build 
a shrine, which he named the Monastery 
of the Four Dragons {Shi-Jion-ryu-ji). In 
the year 767 he resolved to ascend the 
highest peak of the group, and after duly 
preparing himself by religious exercises, 
he set out upon this new enterprise. After 
ascending for a distance of over 40 ri 



(probably the ancient ri, of which 4=1 
mile), he came to a great lake {Chuzenji) 
on the flank of the mountain [Naniai- 
zan) ; but in spite of his prayers found it 
impossible to proceed any further, on. 
account of the deep snow and the terrific 
peals of thunder which roared about the 
mountain top. He therefore retraced his 
steps to Nikko, where he spent fourteen, 
years in fitting himself, by the repetition 
of countless prayers and the performance 
of penances,^ for the task which he was 
unwilling to abandon. In 781 he renewed 
the attempt unsuccessfully, but in the 
following year he finally reached the sum- 
mit, accompanied by some of his dis- 
ciples. It seemed to him a region such 
as gods and other supernatural beings 
would naturally choose for their residence, 
and he therefore erected a Buddhist 
temple called Chuzenji, in which he 
placed a life-size image of the Thousand- 
Handed Kwannon, and close by it a 
Shinto temple in honour of the Gongen of 
Nikko. He also built a shrine to the 
" Great King of the Deep Sand" (Jinja 
Bai-b) at the point where he had crossed 
the stream. Shodo Shonin died in 817 in 
the odour of sanctity. Mqngwanji or Rin- 
noji is the modern name of the monastery 
founded by him at Nikko. 

In A.D. 1616, when Jigen Daishi was 
abbot, the second Shogun of the Toku- 
gawa dynasty, acting on the dying in- 
junctions of his father Ieyasu, sent two 
high officials to Nikko to choose a resting- 
place for his father's body, which had 
been temporarily interred at Kuno-zan, a 
beautiful spot near Shizuoka on the To- 
kaido. They selected a site on a hill 
called Hotoke-iwa, and the mausoleum 
was commenced in December of the same 
.year. The mortuary chapel and some of 
the surrounding edifices were completed 
in the spring of the succeeding year, and 
on the 20th April the procession bearing 
the corpse started from Kuno-zan, reach- 
ing Nikko on the 8th May. The coffin 
was deposited in the tomb, with impres- 



Index to Plan of Nikko Temples. 



1. Mangwanji. 

2. Public Park. 

3. Pagoda. 

4. Kari-den. 

5. Ni-6-mon. 

6. Sacred Store-houses. 

7. Sacred Stable. 

3. Holy-water Cistern. 
9. Kyozo. 

10. Bell-tower. 

11. Temple of Yakushi. 

12. Yomei-mon. 

13. Kagura Stage. 

14. Goma-do. 



15. Mikoshi-do. 

16. Kara-mon. 

17. Houden. 

18. Tomb of Ieyasu. 

19. Futa-ara Shrine. 

20. Futatsu-do. 

21. Tomb of Jigen Daishi. 

22. Ryuko-in. 

23. Ni-6-mon. 

24. Holy-water Cistern. 

25. Niten-mon. 

26. Yasha-mon. 

27. Honden. 

28. Tomb of lemitsu. 



164 



Route 14. — Nikko and Neighbourhood. 



sive Buddhist services in which both the 
reigning Shogun and an envoy from the 
Mikado took part. In the year 16M Jigen 
Daishi died. The next abbot was a court 
noble, the next to him was a son of the 
Emperor Go-Mizuno-o, since which time 
down to the revolution of 1868 the abbot 
of Nikko was always a prince of the Im- 
perial blood. He usually resided at Ueno 
in Yedo, and visited Nikko three times 
annually. The last pduce-abbot was 
Kita Shirakawa-no-Miya, already referred 
to on p. 105, 

The great annual festival is held 
on the 1st and 2nd June. The 
sacred palanquins (mikoshi) con- 
taining the divine symbols are then 
borne in procession, when ancient 
costumes, masks, and armour are 
donned by the villagers, old and 
young alike taking part in the dis- 
play. Another, but less elaborate, 
ceremonial is observed on the 17th 
September. 

2. — Chief Objects of Interest. 

On issuing from the upper end of 
the village, one of the first objects 
that attract attention is the Mi 
Hashi, a Red Bridge spanning the 
Daiya-gawa, a stream about 40 ft. 
wide between the stone walls which 
here confine its course. The bridge 
is supported on stone piers of great 
solidity, fixed into the rocks between 
which the stream flows, and its 
colour forms a striking contrast to 
the deep green of the cryptomerias 
on the opposite bank. 

It was formerly closed to all persons 
except the Shoguns, save twice a year 
when it was opened to pilgrims. It stands 
on the spot where, according to the legend 
above related, Shodo Shonin crossed the 
river. 

The present structure, which is 
84 ft. long and 18 ft. wide, was 
built in 1638 and last repaired in 
1892. At each end are gates 
which are kept constantly closed. 
Forty yards or so lower down the 
stream, is the so-called " Temporary 
Bridge " (Karibashi), which is open 
to ordinary mortals. Crossing this 
and turning to the 1., the visitor 
ascends the Nagasaka through a 
grove of cryptomerias, and reaches 
the enclosure in which formerly 



stood the Hombo, or Abbot's Palace. 
This is commonly spoken of as 
Mangwanji or Rinndji, names 
which, however, properly denote 
all the Nikko temple buildings 
collectively. The road to be taken 
skirts the S. wall of this en- 
closure, and then follows its W. 
side. On the 1. of the avenue is the 
Chdyo-Kwariy formerly used for the 
reception of grandees of the Toku- 
gawa family, but now the summer 
residence of the young Imperial 
Princesses, Tsune-no-Miya and 
Kane-no-Miya. 

Within the Mangwanji enclosure 
stands the Sambutsu-do, or Hall of 
the Three Buddhas, so called from 
gigantic gilt images of the Thousand- 
Handed Kwannon, r. ; Amida, in 
the centre; and the Horse-Headed 
Kwannon, 1., which are enshrined 
behind the main altar. There are 
other images, and a beautiful silk 
Mandara of Dainichi Nyorai and the 
36 Buddhas. Turning towards the 




SORINTO. 



Mausoleum of leyasu. 



165 



pretty Landscape Garden, one sees 
at the back of the Sarnbutsu-do a 
row of small painted images, among 
which Fudo and his followers, colour- 
ed blue, occupy the place of honour. 
Close by is a pillar called Sorinto, 
erected in 1643 for the sake, it is 
said, of averting evil influences, and 
consisting of a cylindrical copper 
column 42 ft. high, of a black colour, 
supported by horizontal bars cross- 
ing through its centre, which rest 
on shorter columns of the same 
material. The top is adorned with 
a series of four cups shaped like 
lotus-flowers, from the petals of 
which depend small bells. Just be- 
neath the lowest of these cups are 
four small medallions, with the 
Tokugawa crest of three asarum 
leaves (aoi no mon or mitsu-aoi). 
Notice two fine bronze lanterns. 
On the opposite side of the road is 
the new Public Park in Japanese 
style. 

Mausoleum of leyasu. Ascend- 
ing some broad steps between two 
rows of cryptomerias, we come to 
the granite torii presented by the 
prince of Chikuzen from his own 
quarries in the year 1618. Its total 
height is 27 ft. 6 in., and the dia- 
meter of the columns is 3 ft. 6 in. 
The inscription on the columns 
merely records the fact of their 
presentation and the name of the 
donor. On the 1. is a five-storied 
pagoda of graceful form, painted in 
harmonious colours. It rises to a 
height of 104 ft., and the roofs 
measure 18 ft. on each side. This 
monument was the offering in 1650 
of Sakai Wakasa-no-Kami, one of 
the chief supporters of the Toku- 
gawa family. Round the lower 
storej are life-like painted carvings 
of the twelve signs of the zodiac. 
Opposite the pagoda, and standing 
amidst the trees to the r. of the 
steps, is the Kari-den, a building 
used to hold the image of leyasu 
whenever the main temple is under 
repair. From the torii, a pavement 
leads to the bottom of the steps 
crowned by the Ni-o-mon y or Gate 



of the Two Kings. The gigantic 
figures of these gods which formerly 
occupied tbe niches on the outside of 
this gate, have been removed, and 
their places taken by gilt Ama-init, 
and Koma-inu. On the tops of the pil- 
lars, at the four external angles, are 
tapirs (Jap. baku) , representations of 
which are in China believed to act 
as charms against pestilence. The 
heads on the central pillars of the 
two outer ends of the structure are 
lions ; in the niches r. and 1. of the 
lion at one end are unicorns, and 
in the corresponding niches at the 
other end are fabulous beasts called 
takuju, which are supposed to be 
endowed with the power of speech, 
and only to appear in the world 
when a virtuous sovereign occupies 
the throne. The doorways are 
ornamented with elephants' heads, 
the first portico has lions and 
peonies, and the second tigers. The 
interiors of the niches on the out- 
side of the gateway are decorated 
with tapirs and peonies, those on 
the inside niches with bamboos. 
The carvings of tigers under the 
eaves on the interior side of the 
gateway are excellent. Notice also 
the fine old bronze flower-vases from 
Loochoo. 

Passing through the gateway, the 
visitor finds himself in a courtyard 
raised high above the approach, and 
enclosed by a timber wall painted 
bright red. The three handsome 
buildings arranged in a zigzag are 
storehouses, where various uten- 
sils employed in the religious ceremo- 
nies performed in honour of leyasu, 
pictures, furniture, and other articles 
used by him during his life-time, 
and many other treasures belonging 
to the temple, are deposited. The 
third is remarkable for two curious 
painted carvings of elephants in 
relief in the gable of the nearest 
end, which are ascribed to Hidari 
Jingoro, the drawings having been 
made by the celebrated artist Tan- 
yii. It will be noticed that the 
joints of the hind-legs are repre- 
sented bent in the wrong direction^ 



166 



Route 14. — Nikko and Neighbourhood. 



On the 1. of the gate stands a 
conifer of the species called Uoya- 
maki, surrounded by a stone railing. 

Some say that this is the identical tree 
which Ieyasu was in the habit of carry in^ 
about with him in his palanquin, when it 
was still small enough to be contained in 
a flower-pot. 

Close to this tree is a stable 
for the sacred white pony kept 
for the use of the god. This gate- 
way, like the others to be noticed 
further on, is beautifully carved. 

Over the doors are some cleverly 
executed groups of monkeys, for 
whose signification see K6shin,p. 44. 
A very interesting object is the 
Chi Chozttya, containing a holy- 
water cistern made of one solid piece 
of granite, and protected by a roof 
supported on twelve square pillars of 
the same material. It was erected 
in 1618. The pediment of the roof 
contains a pair of winged dra- 
gons, carved in wood and painted. 
The beautifully decorated build- 
ing beyond the holy-water basin is 
called the Kyozo, and is the depo- 
sitory of a complete collection of 
the Buddhist scriptures, contained 
in a fine revolving octagonal book- 
case with red lacquer panels and 
gilt pillars. In front are smiling 
figures of Fu Daishi and his sons (see 
p. 41) whence the name of Warai- 
do, popularly applied to this edifice. 
Paintings of angels on a gilt ground 
occupy the clerestory of the interior. 
In the centre of the court stands a 
fine bronze torii, with the Tokugawa 
crest in gold on the tops of the 
pillars and on the tie-beam. 

A flight of steps gives access to 
another court, along the front of 
which runs a stone balustrade. 
Just inside are two stone lions in 
the act of leaping down, presented 
by Iemitsu. On the r. stand a bell- 
tower, a bronze candelabrum pre- 
sented by the King of Loochoo, 
and a bell given by the King of Ko- 
rea, called the " Moth-eaten Bell," 
because of there being a hole in the 
top just under the ring by which it 
is suspended. On the. 1. stand a 



bronze lantern from Korea, a can- 
delabrum from Holland, and a 
drum-tower, no unworthy companion 
to the bell-tower opposite. (Be it 
remarked that Holland, Korea, and 
Loochoo were considered to be 
Japan's three vassal states.) The 
lantern is a fine and solid piece of 
workmanship; but its style and 
construction indicate that it does 
not owe its origin to Korea. The 
two candelabra and the lantern, as 
well as the bronze candle-brackets 
fixed upon the interior wall of the 
court, r. and 1. of the steps, probably 
carne from Europe through Dutch 
or Portuguese traders. Two iron 
standard lanterns on the r. of the 
steps, presented by Date Masamune, 
Prince of Sendai, and the same 
number on the 1. given by the Prince 
of Satsuma, merit attention. They 
are dated 1641. The total number 
of lanterns contributed by various 
Daimyos is one hundred and 
eighteen. 

At the 1. extremity of this same 
platform stands the Temple of 
Yakushi, dedicated to Horaiji Mine- 
no-Yakushi, the patron saint of 
Ieyasu, for which reason its Bud- 
dhist emblems have been left intact, 
while Shinto influence has more or 
less modified the other shrines 
during the present reign. A native 
guide-book truly remarks, " Though 
the exterior of this temple is but- 
ordinary black and red, the orna- 
mentation of the interior has no 
parallel in Nikko." It is a blaze of 
gold and harmonious colours. On 
either side of the altar stand images 
of the Shi-Tenno, flanked b} 7 Yaku- 
shi's twelve followers. The monster 
dragon in sepia occupying the whole 
ceiling is by Kano Yasunobu. 

Proceeding towards the steps that 
lead up to the platform on which 
stands the exquisitely beautiful gate 
called Yomei-mon, observe the fence 
on either side, with fine medallions 
of mountain birds in the upper pa- 
nels, and water-birds in the lower. 
The columns supporting the gate are 
carved with a minute geometrical 



Mausoleum of Ieyasu. 



167 



pattern, and painted white. The 
marking of the hair on the two 
tigers (moku-me no tora) in the 
central medallion of the 1. hand 
pillar, is obtained from the natural 
vein of the wood. The pillar next 
beyond has the pattern carved 
upside down, which was done pur- 
posely, owing to a superstitious 
notion that the flawless perfection 
of the whole structure might bring 
misfortune on the House of Toku- 
gawa by exciting the jealousy of 
Heaven. It is called the Ma-yoke 
no Hashira, or Evil-Averting 
Pillar. The side niches are lined 
with a pattern of graceful arabesques 
founded upon the peony ; those on 
the outside contain the images 
called Sadaijin and Udaijin, armed 
with bows and carrying quivers full 
of arrows on their backs ; the inner 
niches have Ama-inu and Koma- 
inu. The capitals of the columns 
are formed of unicorns' heads. The 
architrave of the second storey 
is adorned with white dragons' 
heads where the cross-beams inter- 
sect, and in the centre of each side 
and end is a magnificently involved 
dragon with golden claws. Above 
the architrave of the lower storey, 
projects a balcony which runs all 
round the building. The railing is 
formed of children at play and 
other subjects. Below again are 
groups of Chinese sages and im- 
mortals. The roof is supported by 
gilt dragons' heads with gaping 
crimson throats, and from the top 
a demon looks down. The Indian- 
ink drawing of dragons on the 
ceilings of the two porticos are by 
Tan-yu. 

Passing through the Yomei-mon, 
we enter a second court in which 
the Buddhist priests used to recite 
their liturgies at the two great 
annual festivals. Of the two build- 
ings on the r., one contains a stage 
for the performance of the sacred 
kagura dances, and in the other, 
called Goma-do, was an altar for 
burning the fragrant cedar while 
prayers were recited. On the 1. is 



the Mikoshi-do, containing the 
palanquins borne in procession on 
the 1st June, when the deified 
spirits of Ieyasu, Hideyoshi, and 
Yoritomo are supposed to occupy 
them. So heavy are they that each 
requires seventy-five men to carry 
it. By the side of the Mikoshi-do 
there is an exhibition of relics con- 
nected with Ieyasu. 

The next object of interest is the 
Kara-mon, or Chinese Gate. It 
gives admittance to the main 
shrine, the enclosure being sur- 
rounded by the tamagaki, or fence, 
forming a quadrangle each side of 
which is 50 yds. long, and is con- 
structed of gilt trellis with borders 
of coloured geometrical decorations. 
Above and beneath these again are 
carvings of birds in groups, about 
8 in. high and 6 ft. long, with back- 
grounds of grass, carved in relief and 
gilt. The pillars of the Kara-mon 
are composed of Chinese woods in- 
laid with great skill and beauty, the 
subjects being the plum-tree, dragon, 
and bamboo. The two white figures 
under the roof are Chinese sages, 
while the lower row represents the 
Emperor Gyo (Yao), the founder of 
the Chinese monarchy, surrounded 
by his court. The folding-doors of 
the Honden, or oratory, are lavishly 
decorated with arabesques of peonies 
in gilt relief. Over the door and 
windows of the front, are nine com- 
partments filled with birds carved 
in relief, four on each side of the 
building ; and there are four more 
at the back on each side of the 
corridor leading to the chapel. The 
interior is a large matted room, 
42 ft. long by 27 ft. deep, with an 
ante-chamber at each end. That 
on the r., which was intended for 
the Shogun, contains pictures of 
lions on a gold ground, and four 
carved oak panels of phoenixes 
which at first sight seem to be in 
low relief, but prove, on closer 
examination, to be figures formed of 
various woods glued on to the 
surface of the panel. The rear 
compartment of the ceiling is of. 



168 



Route 14. — Nikko and Neighbourhood. 



carved wood, with the Tokugawa 
crest in the centre surrounded by 
phoenixes and chrysanthemums. 
The opposite ante-chamber has the 
same number of panels, the sub- 
jects of which are eagles executed 
with much spirit, and a carved and 
painted ceiling with an angel sur- 
rounded by chrysanthemums. The 
gold paper gohei at the back of the 
oratory, and a circular mirror are 
the only ornaments left, the Bud- 
dhist bells, gongs, sutras, and so 
forth, having been removed. Two 
wide steps at the back lead down 
into the Stone Chamber, so called 
because paved with stone under the 
matted wooden floor. The ceiling 
consists of square panels, with gold 
dragons on a blue ground. Beyond 
are the gilt doors of the chapel, 
which is divided into four apart- 
ments not accessible to visitors. 
The first, called Heiden, where 
the offerings are presented, is a 
chastely decorated chamber having 
a coffered ceiling with phoenixes 
diversely designed, and carved 
beams and pillars of plain wood. 
In it stand gilt and silken gohei 
presented by the Emperor. 

To reach Ieyasu's Tomb, we issue 
again from the Kara-mon, and pass 
between the Goma-do and Kagura- 
do to a door in the E. side of the 
gallery. Over this door is a carving 
called the Nemuri no Neko, or 
Sleeping Cat, one of Hidari Jin- 
goro's most famous works, though 
most visitors will be disappointed at 
its insignificance amidst so much 
grandeur. From this a moss-grown 
stone gallery and several steep 
nights, of about two hundred steps 
altogether, lead to the tomb on the 
hill behind. After passing through 
the torii at the top of the last 
flight, we reach another oratory 
used only when that below is under- 
going repairs. The tomb, shaped 
like a small pagoda, is a single 
bronze casting of a light colour, 
produced, it is said, by the admix- 
ture of gold. In front stands a low 
stone table, bearing an immense 



bronze stork with a brass candle in 
its mouth, an incense-burner of 
bronze, and a vase with artificial 
lotus-flowers and leaves in brass. 
The whole is surrounded by a stone 
wall surmounted by a balustrade, 
the entrance being through a bronze 
gate not open to the public, the roof 
of which, as well as the gate itself, 
is a solid casting. Before it sit 
bronze Koma-inu and Ama-inu. 

On leaving the Mausoleum of 
Ieyasu, we turn to the r. at the 
bottom of the steps, and pass along 
the avenue under the wall to the 
open space through the torii, where 
stands r. the Shinto temple of 
Futa-ara no Jinja, dedicated to the 
god Onamuji. 

When Shodo Shonin, in A.D. 782, reached 
the top of Nantai-zan, the tutelary deities 
of the region appeared to him, and pro- 
mised to watch over the welfare of human 
beings and the progress of Buddhism. 
These were the god Onamuji, the goddess 
Tagori-hime his wife, and their son Aji- 
suki-taka-hikone. Japan is believed to 
have been saved on many occasions from 
the perils of civil war and invasion by the 
intervention of these divine beings, who 
are styled the " Three Original Gongen 
of Nikko ;" and local tradition avers that it 
was owing to the efficacy of the prayers 
here offered, that the Mongol invaders in 
the second half of the 13th century were 
repulsed with such terrible loss. The chief 
festival of this temple is held on the 17th 
April. 

In the prettily decorated Honden 
behind, various antique objects, such 
as swords, vestments, lacquer, maga- 
tatna, etc., are exhibited. 

In one corner of the chapel en- 
closure stands a bronze lantern 
called the BaJcemono Toro, present- 
ed in 1292. 

This lantern owes its name to the tradi- 
tion that it formerly had the power of 
taking the form of a demon, and annoy- 
ing the inhabitants of the locality on 
dark nights, until a courageous man 
attacked'it, and with his sword gave it a 
wound which is still visible on the cap. 

Turning to the 1. and descending, 
we perceive two red-lacquered build- 
ings (Futatsu-do), standing together 
and connected by a covered gallery. 
The smaller is dedicated to Kishi 



Mausoleum of Iemitsu. 



169 



Bojin and Fugen Bosatsu, the larger 
to Amida. It is also called Yori- 
tomo-do, because here are preserved 
the bones of Yoritomo, which were 
discovered near the site of the Ni- 
6-mon gate of Ieyasu's mausoleum 
about the year 1617. Bound the 
sides of the interior are ranged a 
number of Buddhist images. 

Passing under the gallery con- 
necting these temples and ascending 
the avenue, we come to the resting- 
place of Jig en Daishi, otherwise 
called Tenkai Daisojo, Abbot of 
Nikko at the time of Ieyasu's inter- 
ment. There is the usual mortuary 
shrine in front ; the tomb is a 
massive stone structure of stUpa 
shape, guarded by life-size stone 
effigies of the Buddhist gods called 
collectively Koku-bu-Ten. To the 
1. up a small flight of steps are the 
unpretending tombs of the prince- 
abbots of Nikko, thirteen in num- 
ber. 

Mausoleum of Iemitsu. The 

building seen to the r. before we 
mount the great stone staircase is 
Ryukd-in, the residence of the 
priests attached to this temple. The 
first gate leading towards the mau- 
soleum is a Ni-o-mon containing 
two pairs of Ni-o, those in the 
niches of the inner side having been 
removed hither from the gate of 
Ieyasu's mausoleum. Under a 
beautiful structure r., supported by 
granite pillars, is a massive granite 
water-basin. The dragon on the 
ceiling is by Kano Yasunobu. 
A flight of steps leads to the gate 
called Niten-mon. The niches on 
the outside contain a red statue of 
Komoku on the L, and on the r. a 
green one of Jikoku, while the 
inside niches on the inside are 
tenanted by the Gods of Wind and 
Thunder. Three more flights con- 
duct us to the Yasha-mon, or 
Demon Gate, whose niches contain 
the Shi-Tenno. Turning round, we 
have before us an exquisite view 
of foliage. 

The oratory and chapel of this 



mausoleum are less magnificent 
than those of Ieyasu. The former 
is crowded with the insignia of 
Buddhism. Two large horn lanterns 
pointed out as Korean are evidently 
Dutch. The Tomb is reached by 
flights of steps up the side of the 
hill on the r. of the chapel. It is of 
bronze, and in the same style as 
that of Ieyasu, but of a darker hue. 
The gates in front are likewise of 
bronze, and are covered with large 
Sanskrit characters in shining brass. 

3. — Objects of Minob Intebest. 

Besides the mausolea of the 
Shoguns, there are various objects 
at Nikko having a lesser degree of 
interest. All are within a short 
distance of the great temples, and 
may be combined within the limits 
of a forenoon. One of these is the 
Hongu, a temple dedicated to the 
Shinto god Ajisuki-taka-hikone, 
whose name implies that he was 
mighty with the spade. This temple 
was built by Shodo Shonin in A.D. 
808, close to the Buddhist monastery 
which he had founded. It is reach- 
ed by ascending the stone steps that 
face the end of the bridge, and then 
turning to the right. The small 
temple, near the three-storied 
pagoda in the same enclosure, 
is dedicated to the Horse-headed 
Kwannon. 

About J hr. walk from the Hongu 
up the Inari-kawa valley to the r. 
of Ieyasu's mausoleum, we come to 
the San-no-miya, a small red 
chapel surrounded by a stone 
balustrade. It is believed that 
women may obtain safe delivery by 
here offering up pieces of wood, 
similar in shape to those used 
in the Japanese game of chess, 
and partly corresponding in their 
movements to our rook. Be- 
side it is the Kaisan-do, a red 
lacquered building 36 ft. square, 
dedicated to Shodo Shonin, the 
" pioneer of the mountain," as the 
name implies. Peeping through 
the grating which forms the window 
on the E. side, we see an image of 



170 



Route 14, — Nikko and Neighbourhood. 



Jizo occupying a lofty position, with 
the effigy of the saint below, and 
those of ten disciples ranged r. and 
L Behind are the tombs of the 
saint and three of his disciples. 
At the base of the rugged and pre- 
cipitous rock at the back of the 
Kaisan-do are some rough Buddhist 
images, from which the hill takes 
its name of Hotoke-iwa. On the 
summit of this hill stands the tomb 
of Ieyasu. Proceeding along the 
stone-paved avenue we pass a small 
shrine dedicated to Tenjin. A large 
stone close to the path on the r., 
just beyond this, is called the Te- 
kake-ishi, or Hand-touched Stone, 
said to have been sanctified by the 
imposition of Kobo Daishi's hands. 
Fragments of it are valued as a 
protection against noxious in- 
fluences. Further on is a stone 
bearing a half-effaced inscription, 
erected over the spot where lies the 
horse which carried Ieyasu at the 
decisive battle of Seki-ga-hara, in 
the year 1600. After the death of 
the master whom he had borne to 
victory, the horse was set free in 
the mountains of Nikko, and died 
in 1630. The next object to be 
noticed is an immense cryptomeria, 
7 ft. in diameter a little above the 
base, called the li-mori no sugi, 
from the supposed resemblance to a 
heap of boiled rice which its pendent 
branches present. The tree is said 
to have been planted by a deputa- 
tion representing 800 Buddhist nuns 
of the province of Wakasa. Close 
to the path on the 1. is the Somen 
ga taki, or Vermicelli Cascade, so 
called from a fancied likeness to a 
bowl of that food. Another and 
prettier name given to it is Shira- 
ito, " White Thread." 

A short way beyond stands the 
temple of Takino-o, founded at the 
beginning of the 9th century, 
and dedicated to Tagori Hime. 
The curiosities of this spot — a fa- 
vourite one for short picnics — are the 
Sam-bon Sugi, three sacred crypto- 
meria trees enclosed by a palisade ; 
the pool called Sake no Izumi from 



a tradition that pure sake once welled 
up from it, as water does at the pre- 
sent day; a large stone, the Ko-dane- 
ishi, to which prayers for offspring 
are offered up by the childless. 

A pleasant way back to the 
Hotels leads by the path (seen 
on the 1. just below Somen-ga- 
taki as we came up the avenue) over 
the ravine to Futa-ara-jinja. At 
the top of the ravine there is a 
small shrine called the Gyoja-do r 
where iron sandals with strings of 
twisted iron are hung up by pilgrims 
who pray for the muscular develop- 
ment of their lower limbs. The 
path leading up behind the Gyoja-d6 
is that taken for the ascent of 
Nyoho-san described on p. 172. 

4. — Walks in the Neighbourhood. 

1. Ryfigai-yaina is the name of 
the bluff behind the upper end of 
the vill. A fine view of the river 
and surrounding country is obtained 
from the tea-sheds overlooking the 
street. 

2. Gaiiiman-ga-fucM. About 20 
min. walk from the bridge, along 
the course of the Daiya-gawa, is a 
deep pool called Gamman-ga-fuchi. 
A hut has been erected here close 
to the boiling eddies, opposite to a 
precipitous rock on which is en- 
graved the Sanskrit word Hdmmam. 
It seems impossible that any one 
should have been able to get across 
to perform the work, and so it is 
ascribed to Kobo Daishi, who ac- 
complished the feat by throwing 
his pen at the rock. But there is 
authority for attributing it to a 
disciple of Jigen Daishi, only two 
centuries ago. On the r. bank of the 
river stand a large number of images 
of Amida ranged in a long row. 

It is asserted that they always count 
up differently, however often the attempt 
he made,— a belief bearing a curious 
resemblance to the superstition which 
prevailed regarding the Druidical stones 
in various parts of" England. It was sup- 
posed that no two person could number 
the stones alike, and that nobody could 
ever find a second counting confirm the 
first. The largest of these images was 
some years ago washed down the river by 



Walks in the Neighbourhood. 



171 



a flood as far as Imaiclii, arriving there 
in perfect safety. It now stands at the 
E. end of that town, with its face towards 
Nikko. 

3. Hontd Somen-ga-taki, or the 

Heal Vermicelli Cascade, so called 
to distinguish it from the one men- 
tioned on the previous page, is about 
\ hr. walk up the valley nearest to 
Gamman-ga-fuchi. It consists of a 
series of three cascades, not large, 
but very pretty after rain. As we 
approach the first fall on going up 
the valley, a small trickle of water 
coming over the face of the hill is per- 
ceived on the 1. This streamlet often 
becomes a clear fall of about 40 ft. 

4. Daiiticlli-dOj just beyond Gam- 
man-ga-fuchi, on the opposite side 
of the river, merits a visit for the 
sake of its prettily arranged garden. 
The water rising from a spring in 
one of the artificial ponds is con- 
sidered the purest in the neighbour- 
hood of Nikko. 

5. Toyama. The nearest emi- 
nence from which an extensive view 
of the plain can be obtained is To- 
yama, a hill rising up somewhat 
in the form of a huge animal cou- 
ehant on the 1. bank of the Inari- 
kawa, which flows down by the 
side of the temples. From the 
bridge to the top is f hr. climb. The 
last bit of the ascent is* steep, but 
the view forms a sufficient reward. 
The large mountain on the extreme 
1. is Keicho-zan, also called Taka- 
hara-yama ; right opposite is the 
long ridge of Haguro-yama. Tsuku- 
ba's double peak is unmistakable. 
Turning round we see the whole of 
the magnificent range formed by 
Nantai-zan, O-Manago, Ko-Manago, 
Nyoho-zan, and Akanagi. 

6. Kirifiiri-no-taki, or the Mist- 
Falling Cascade. By taking a wide 
sweep round the base of Toyama and 
over undulating country to the S., 
this cascade may be reached in 1\ 
hr. A tea-house on the hill above 
commands a picturesque view of 
the fall, and from the top of a knoll 
just beyond the tea-house, a grand 
view is obtained of the country 



towards the E., S., and W. A 
steep and very rough path leads 
down to the foot, where the fall is 
seen to better advantage. The rare 
fern Aspidium tripteron grows by 
the way-side ; it is also found close 
to the temple of Takino-o. 

7. Makkura-daki, or Pitch-dark 
Cascade. On leaving Kirifuri we 
retrace the path for a few steps, and 
then follow another to the r. for 
about 2 m. This path crosses the 
stream above Kirifuri three times, 
and then passing over a hill, leads to 
another stream. 

[Just before the first crossing, a 
path down the stream leads in 
2 or 3 min. to a small fall called 
Chdji-taki.] 

Here we leave the path and plunge 
into a thicket, keeping the stream on 
the r., a short rough climb bringing 
us to Makkura-daki, a fall of 
about 60 ft. in height. The best view 
is obtained from a point a few yards 
up the hill to the 1. The fall shows 
very prettily through the trees as 
it is approached, and altogether 
well repays the toil of reaching 
it. As the path is easily mistaken, 
it is advisable to procure a guide, 
who will also be able to lead one 
back to Nikko a different way. 

8. Jakko (the site of the 
temple of Jakko, and Nana-taki 
cascade). The way lies through 
the village of Irimachi and turns off 
at right angles just before descending 
to a bridge, from which it is 1 hr. 
walk further to the temple of Jakko. 
The edifice that stood here was 
burnt in 1876, and the splendid 
avenue of pines and cryptomerias 
which formed the approach has 
been ruthlessly cut down. Behind 
the site of the temples is a cascade, 
a series of falls of about 100 ft. in 
height. It goes by various names, 
one being Nana-taki, and must not 
be confounded with the other falls 
of the same name mentioned on 
p. 173. 

9. Jakko Ichi-no-taki. Shortly 
before reaching the base of the hill 



172 



Route 14. — Nikko and Neighbourhood. 



on which the temple of Jakko 
stands, we cross a bridge over a 
small stream, where a path leads 
off r. around the base of the hill. 
Less than J m. up a beautiful 
ravine, lies the waterfall of Ichi- 
no-taki. About half-way up, the 
stream is again crossed, and a few 
yards further we gain the first view 
of the fall. The path thence to the 
bottom is steep. As the way is 
very muddy after rain, and only a 
log bridge spans the stream, this 
excursion may be found awkward for 
ladies. 

10. The Deer Park (Go Ryochi). 
About half-way to Jakko from Iri- 
machi, a narrow path turns off r., 
leading up a small valley in which 
the Deer Park is situated. Five 
min. walk takes one to the keeper's 
house, where the presentation of 
a visiting card will ensure admis- 
sion. Within the precincts of the 
park are two pretty cascades. 

11. Urami-ga-iaki, or Back View 
Cascade, 50 ft. high, derives its 
name from the possibility of pass- 
ing behind and under the fall. 
The road, practicable for jinrikishas, 
turns to the r. shortly after crossing 
an affluent of the Daiya-gawa. It 
is 1 hr. walk to the tea-houses by 
the side of a stream, whence the 
remainder of the way is an easy 
climb of 5 cho. Visitors passing 
behind the fall and up the ravine 
on the other side, will be well re- 
paid for their trouble and the in- 
convenience of a slight wetting from 
the spray. On reaching the other 
side of the fall, there is a pictur- 
esque view of the rocky basin over- 
hung with trees, of the cascade, 
and of the deep pool into which it 
tumbles. The path behind leads in 
5 min. to another basin with a small 
cascade falling into it. — A short cut 
leads straight up the hill by the 
side of the tea-shed from Urami into 
the Jikwan road. 

Urami may also be conveniently 
visited on the way back from Chu- 
zenji, by taking the road which 
branches off 1., a little below Uma- 



gaeshi, and by turning to the 1. 
again at Kiyotaki, where a very 
muddy path leads through the 
woods for a distance of about 1 ri 
to the tea-houses above-mentioned. 

12. Jikwan- no -taki (cascade). 
Crossing the stream by the side of 
the tea-houses below Urami, a path 
will be found r. a few steps beyond. 
It leads up the hill, mostly through 
a wood for a little over 1 ri, the 
first part of which is rather steep. 
At top of hill where road divides, 
take the turning to the r. At 
Jikwan there is a pretty effect of 
water falling in a dozen streams 
over a ledge of rock. The view 
from the top of the fall down the 
valley is very fine. About 1 m. be- 
low Jikwan, and visible from a 
small clearing at the edge of the 
hill on the way up, is another fall 
call Jikwan Hatsune. 

13. The Ascent of Nyoho-zan is 
the best of all the mountain climbs 
near Nikko. It is a whole day's 
excursion, and an early start should 
consequently be made. There are 
two ways up, either via Nana-taki 
("the Seven Cascades"), or via the 
Fujimi-toge. By the former route, 
which commands the most exten- 
sive views, average walkers will 
require 5J hrs., including stoppages, 
for the ascent, and 3 hrs. for the des- 
cent. There is no water on the 
mountain, except at a spring some 
10 min. below the log-hut on the 
S. side. Snow may be found close 
to this hut as late as the first days 
of July. The way for pedestrians 
lies past the temple of Futa-ara no 
Jinja and a shrine called the 
Gyoja-do. Here take a narrow 
track to the 1. through the wood, 
leading, after f hr. easy walking 
with a short climb at the end, to a 
large stone known as the Sessho-seki, 
which bears an inscription to notify 
that killing game is prohibited on 
these hills. (The best way for horses 
and kagos leads a short distance 
over the Jakko road to a zigzag path 
clearly visible on the hill to the r., 
and joins the path already mention- 



Ascent of Nyoho-zan and Nantai-zan. 



173 



ed at the Sessho-seki.) Right ahead 
rises a peak called Akappori, con- 
spicuous by its precipitous face of 
red volcanic strata. The path con- 
tinues up the grassy spur in front. 
In 1J hr. from the Sessho-seki we 
arrive at a ruined hut called Happu, 
and 5 min. later we corne to the 
edge of a precipice overlooking a 
gigantic chasm, apparently the 
remains of an ancient crater that 
has been broken away by water on 
the S.E. side, where the Inari-kawa 
has its source. From Akanagi-san 
an almost unbroken crater wall 
extends westward to Akappori. 
This secondary crater appears not 
to have been very deep, as its pre- 
sent floor, out of which descends 
one of the seven cascades that 
supply the Inari-kawa, is high above 
the greater chasm immediately in 
front of us. A projecting spur 
divides the upper from the lower 
crater, and above it on the 1. rises a 
lesser peak named Shakujo-ga-take. 
The falls are viewed from the edge 
of the precipice ; and though they 
are insignificant, the walk to this 
point is one of the most delightful in 
the neighbourhood, affording en- 
trancing views. The excursion as far 
asNana-taki and back occupies from 
5 to 6 hrs. The path hence winds 
to the 1. not far from the edge of the 
chasm, at first very steeply, and 
then through the wood to a large 
hut in If hr. We are now at the 
foot of the final climb which will 
occupy not more than § hr. more. 
The summit, on which stands a 
small shrine dedicated to Ona- 
muji, is 8,100 ft. high. To the N. 
it commands a magnificent view 
over a sea of lower mountains, 
among which lie the secluded valleys 
of Kuriyama-go. To the N.E. 
Nasuno-yama is rendered conspic- 
uous by the smoke rising from its 
crater, and further N, is seen 
Bandai-san. To the E. is Taka- 
hara-yama, which also has the 
appearance of a volcano. On the 
immediate W. of the spectator is 
Akakura, merely a continuation of 



Nyoho-zan, then Ko-Manago, O-Ma- 
nago, and Nantai-zan. Between 
Akakura and Ko-Manago we look 
across to Taro-zan. Senjo-ga-hara 
is partly visible, and beyond it the 
bare volcanic summit of Shirane. 
Further to the S. W. are seen Asama- 
yama, Yatsu-ga-take, and numerous 
other peaks probably belonging to 
the Hida-Shinshu range. The upper 
half of Fuji rises S. over the long 
horizontal line of the Chichibu 
mountains. Away in the plain to 
the E. and S. are perceived the 
broad and deep Kinugawa, stretches 
of the Tonegawa, the vill. of Nikko 
with avenues marking the Nikko 
Kaido and Reiheishi Kaido, and far 
away on the horizon, Tsukuba-san. 

The way by the Fujimi-toge is 
also beautiful, and offers the ad- 
vantage that a much further dis- 
tance may be ridden and less need 
be walked, as horses go as far as 
the torii at the entrance to the 
mountain precincts. Leaving Nikko, 
the path turns r. beside the first tea- 
house on the r. below Urami. For 
about 1 m. beyond Urami it is rough 
— a portion to be avoided before 
nightfall.. Thence it leads for several 
miles through pleasant sylvan 
scenery, until it enters a forest of 
weird beauty 1J m. from the foot 
of Nyoho-zan. The torii is reached 
in 3 hrs., whence the climb by a 
winding path, mostly under the 
shade of fine trees, occupies 2J hrs. 



14. Ascent 



of Nantai-zan 
Urami. 



This is the easiest and pleasantest 
way of making the ascent, though it 
is true that some prefer the shorter 
but steep and rugged path up from 
Chuzenji (see p. 175). Just beyond 
the tea-houses below Urami, the 
path descends to the 1., crosses the 
stream, and turns at once to the r., 
climbing up through a wood on 
emerging from which Nantai-zan, 
O-Manago, Nyoho-zan, aud Akanagi 
are seen in front. After £ hr. 
walking we get to the dry bed of a 
river, thence up a grassy valley for 



174 



Route 14. — Nikko and Neighbourhood. 



some 20 min. and reach a sign-post 
where a path to the r. diverges to 
Nyoho-zan, while the 1. branch 
ascends and gradually winds to the 
r. Plunging among trees, it fol- 
lows up a deep, thickly-wooded 
gully, and at last comes to a torii 
standing in the depression between 
Nantai-zan and 0- Manage Here 
the path forks, the r. branch passing 
the spot from which O-Manago is 
ascended and continuing on towards 
Yumoto, while the 1. climbs up to 
the Shizu huts (5,600 ft.), where the 
back ascent of Nantai-zan com- 
mences. Horses may be taken 
from Nikko to this place, time 4 
hrs. From Shizu to the summit is 
2,600 ft. further, occupying about 3 
hrs. on foot. The way back by the 
same route is an easy 5 hrs. walk. 
Those intending to return to Nikko 
instead of descending to Chuzenji, 
must make a very early start, as the 
path below Shizu is much broken 
up, and unsafe after dark. 

[Instead of ascending Nantai- 
zan, one may walk round its 
base to Chuzenji in about 3J 
hrs. The route for some dis- 
tance follows the path leading 
from Shizu to Yumoto, and 
about 1 ri after crossing the bed 
of a stream, diverges to the 1., 
shortly afterwards issuing on 
the open plain of Senjo-ga-hara, 
from which moment it cannot 
be missed.] 

5. Kegon-no-taki, Chuzenji, As- 
cent of Nantai-zan feom Chu- 
zenji. Yumoto. 

One of the principal points of 
interest near Nikko is the beautiful 
lake of Chuzenji. The road is prac- 
ticable for jinrikishas with two men, 
not only to the till, of Chuzenji, 3 
ri 12 oho from Nikko, but for 2 ri 27 
cho further on to the hot springs of 
Yumoto. But owing to the steep- 
ness of the hill which has to be 
passed on the way, ladies and 
persons unable to walk, are re- 
commended to take chairs or 



horses. The walk from Nikko to 
Chuzenji and back in one day is a 
favourite excursion. Indeed sturdy 
pedestrians are able, b}' making an 
early start, to do the whole distance 
to Yumoto and back within the 
limits of a day ; but this is neither 
advisable nor necessary. Charming 
at all times, the way from Nikko to 
Chuzenji is seen at its best late in 
May or early in June, when the 
azalea trees, some of which are from 
10 ft. to 25 ft. high, display their 
red, white, and purple blossoms, 
and the wistarias too are coming 
into bloom. 

Leaving Nikko, we follow the 
Ashio road along the course of the 
Daiya-gawa as far as Futamiya (1J 
ri)\ where the road to Chuzenji 
branches off r. through a wood, 
still continuing by the river-side. 
This river, which issues from Lake 
Chuzenji, is for most of the year a 
small and quiet stream ; but at times 
it becomes a dangerous torrent carry- 
ing away roads and embankments. 
The ascent is gradual and easy 
up to the hamlet of TJma-gaeshi, 
where there is a fair inn. Just 
before reaching this hamlet, the 
old path from Nikko, still much 
used, joins the new road. The road 
hence for some distance is cut out 
of the side of the overhanging cliff 
close by the brawling stream, and 
owing to landslips is difficult to 
maintain in order. Formerly the 
path climbed along the face of the 
cliff, and was impassable even for 
horses, whence the name of Uma- 
gaeshi (see p. 143). The scenery 
between Uma-gaeshi and the Mi- 
sawa tea-house at the foot of 
the actual ascent, 20 min. walk, is 
wild and picturesque. Leaving the 
rugged gorge, a winding path leads 
up to a narrow ridge, where a 
resting-hut commands a pretty view 
of two cascades called Hannya and 
Hodo, at the head of the ravine to 
the r. From this point the ascent to 
the top, which occupies J hr., is ar- 
duous. Pedestrians may advant- 
ageously take the short cut which the 



Kegon Waterfall. Chuzenji. 



175 



old road offers. At the charmingly 
situated tea-house called Naka no 
Chaya half-way up, the coolies 
usually make a short halt. On the 
summit, the road passes through a 
wood of pines and oaks, many of 
which are covered with the long 
trailing moss called sarugase 
(Lycopodimn sieboldi). A path to 
the 1. leads to a platform com- 
manding a fine view of the cascade 
of 

Kegon-no takh The height of 
this fall is about 250 ft. In the 
earlier part of the year it is 
occasionally almost dry; but after 
the heavy summer rains, it shoots 
out over the edge of the over- 
hanging precipice in considerable 
volume, A good view is obtained 
by descending the side of the preci- 
pice to a look-out which has been 
erected just opposite the fall ; 
still better by going down to the 
foot. Guide from tea-house, 20 
cents. The road onwards soon 
reaches the shore of the lake, and 
enters the singularly deserted villi of 

CliTizenji, 

This name, written fff HI iff > which 
smacks of Buddhism, has been officially 
altered to Chugushi, fp Is J}r1> which is 
Shinto ; but the old name is still currently 
used. 

which is only occupied by pilgrims 
for a few days in July or August, the 
period for the ascent of Nantai-zan 
as a religious exercise varying from 
year to 3^ear according to the old 
lunar calendar. As many as ten 
thousand sleep at the vill. during 
those few days. The houses stand 
in long rows, containing for the 
most part two rooms, one above 
and one below. Fair accommo- 
dation can be had at the inns, — 
Kome-ya and Izumi-ya, — which 
have pleasant rooms looking out on 
the lake, and European food can be 
obtained during the summer mouths. 
The temple here is said to have been 
founded by Shodo Shonin, in A.D. 
816, after his ascent of Nantai-zan. 
The space between the bronze torii 
and the temple itself is considered 



holy ground, and persons in jinriki- 
shas or kagos had better go along 
the lower road if they object to 
being required to alight in order to 
pass through. Close to the temple 
is the gate of 

Nantai-zan, which is closed except 
during the pilgrim season, when 
entrance tickets can be purchased 
for 25 cents. The ascent, occupying 
about 3 hrs., is extremely steep ; but 
the lovely view from the summit 
(8,150 ft.) well repays the exertion. 
The best time to see it is at sunrise ; 
so a very early start should be made 
with lanterns. On the S.E. lies the 
plain stretching towards Tokyo ; on 
the W. rises the lofty cone of 
Shirane-san ; further S. is Koshin- 
zan ; below lies the marshy basin 
of Senjo-ga-hara with the stream 
meandering through it, the blue 
lake of Chuzenji, a glimpse of Lake 
Yumoto, and N. of Shirane, the 
peaks of Taro-zan, O-Manago, Ko- 
Manago, and Nyoho-zan. Fuji is 
also visible in clear weather. The 
ascent can also be made from Yu- 
moto in about 5 hrs. (see p. 177). 

Lake Clinzenji lies at the foot of 
Nantai-zan, being surrounded on 
the other sides by comparatively 
low hills covered with trees to their 
very summit. Its greatest length 
from E. to W. is estimated at 3 r% 
its breadth at 1 ri. Soundings show 
the extraordinary depth of 93 fa- 
thoms, shallowing down towards 
Senju and more rapidly towards 
Kegon. The lake, formerly devoid 
of life, now abounds with excellent 
salmon, salmon-trout, iivana, and 
other fish, with which it was stocked 
between the years 1873 and 1890 by 
the Japanese Government. The sal- 
mon and salmon-trout can only be 
taken with rod and line, whilst the 
iwana, a species of white trout which 
never come to the fisherman's bait, 
are the only fish taken in the 
nets. The height of Lake Chuzen- 
ji above the sea is 4,375 ft. 
Several small temples, which are 
visited by the pilgrims, add to the 
picturesgueness of its shores. The 



176 



Route 14. — Nikko and Neighbourhood. 



prettiest are those at Senju near its 
W. extremity, and one on a pro- 
montory near the hamlet of Ase 
looking towards the sacred islet of 
Kozuke-shima and Nantai-zan. 

The road to Yumoto lies for about 
1 ri along the N. shore, at the edge 
of the forest covering the base of 
Nantai-zan, as far as a promontory 
called Shobu-no-hama, or Iwa-ga- 
saki, to which' point boats may be 
taken. 

[At the far end of the lake stands 
a small shrine close to a brook 
remarkable for the icy coldness 
of its water. This is a pleasant 
spot for a picnic, and is within 
J hr. walk of the Nishi-no-zimi, 
a tarn nestling beneath the 
wooded hills which, at this end, 
recede from Lake Chuzenji] . 

Just beyond the promontory, the 
road turns away from the lake and 
soon crosses the Jigoku-no-kawa, 
a slender stream which hurries over 
smooth rocks. Rest and shelter 
may be had at a hut close by. 
A little further on, a path branches 
oil r. through the grass to a cave 
called Jigoku - no - kama (Hell's 
Cauldron) at the base of Nantai- 
zan. The road ascends slightly 
after leaving the hut, and a few 
steps away to the 1. bring us to 
the foot of the Ryuzu-ga-taki, or 
Dragon's Head Cascade, the most 
curious of all the cascades in this 
neighbourhood. It consists of a 
series of small falls rushing over 
steep black rocks and forming two 
streams. In order to obtain a full 
view, the first stream must be 
crossed. On the L, the second 
stream plunges down through deep, 
dark hollows in the rock, and loses 
itself in hidden windings. The 
maples at this spot, during the 
month of October, display the most 
glorious tints that can be imagined. 
Beyond this, the road is through a 
desolate forest which was ravaged 
by fire some years ago. At length 
it emerges on the Senjo-ga-hara, 
or Moor of the Battle-field, so 



named on account of an engage- 
ment that took place here in A.D. 
1389 between the partisans of the 
Ashikaga Shoguns and those of the 
Southern dynasty of Mikados (see 
p. 54). An alternative name is 
Akanuma-ga-hara, or Moor of the 
Red Swamp, derived from the colour 
of the tall dying sedges in autumn. 
The irises also are a wonderful sight 
in July. This wide solitude is bound- 
ed on all side by forests, above which 
rise the peaks of Nantai-zan, O-Ma- 
nago, Ko-Manago, and Taro-zan. 
Far away on the 1. is a wooded 
elevation, in the centre of which 
the cascade of Yu-no-taki appears 
like a silver thread. Above this 
rises the volcano of Shirane-san, 
the only bare peak in the vicinity. 
The road crosses the plain to a point 
not far from the Yu-no-taki, where 
it begins to rise through a wood 
of oaks. The bottom of the ascent 
is 21 chb from Yumoto. Half-way 
through the wood, a path diverges 
1. to the foot of the cascade, which 
gushes over a smooth black rock 
at an angle of 60°, forming a 
stream that feeds the Ryuzu-ga- 
taki, and finally falls into Lake 
Chuzenji. Its perpendicular height 
is just 200 ft. A narrow steep path 
by its side leads up to the top, some 
60 yds. from the shore of Lake 
Yumoto, so called from the hot 
springs at its further end. This 
lake, though smaller than Lake Chu- 
zenji, is still more beautiful. The 
road winds through the wood along 
the E. side of the lake to the small 
villi of 

Yumoto, (Inns, Namma-ya, Ya- 
mada-ya), 5,000 ft. above the sea. 
Here the water is partially dis- 
coloured by the sulphur springs. 
There are altogether ten springs, 
some under cover, others exposed 
to the open air, all open to the 
public and frequented by both sexes 
promiscuously. 

A picturesque alternative way back 
from Chuzenji to Nikko, available 
only for pedestrians and taking 



Ascent of Shirane, O-Manago, and Nantai. 



177 



about 3 hrs. to Futami-ya, is to 
cross the bridge over the stream 
issuing from the lake just above 
Kegon, and follow the path that 
leads up the opposite hill called 
Kobu-ga-hara-toge. After reaching 
the top, 1J hr. from Chuzenji, a short 
walk on the level brings one to some 
huge granite boulders called Kaga- 
ishi, commanding a magnificent 
view. The path then descends, 
and in J hr. joins the Ashio-Nikko 
road, whence, if ordered beforehand, 
jinrikishas may be availed of for 
the rest of the way home. 

6. — Ascent _of Shirane-san. As- 
cent op O-Manago and Nantai- 
zan from yumoto. 

Shiraiie-san is a volcano 8,800 
ft. high, and was active as recently 
as 1889. The ascent is very rough 
and steep, and should not be at- 
tempted without a guide. For the 
ascent allow 4 J hrs., for the 
descent, 3 hrs. ; but considerable 
time is needed for a survey of the 
top, so that a whole day is none too 
little for the expedition. There is 
no water on the mountain side. 
The first part of the climb is the 
roughest of all, leading over Mae- Shi- 
rane (Front Shirane), a ridge which 
looks as if it had been part of the 
wall of a crater, and that within 
comparatively recent times a new 
and higher cone had been formed 
inside its W. limb, which had nearly 
filled up the original crater, leaving 
only the intervening valley on its 
E. side, the bottom of which slopes 
off from the centre N. and S. The 
N. end contains a tarn of a remark- 
able green colour. Descending 
from Mae-Shirane, we cross the old 
crater floor, and then ascend Shirane 
proper {Oku- Shirane). The cone 
has a great rent down the side, 
which is kept on the r. in going up, 
and a deep crater at the top whose 
edges are very rotten. From the top, 
which is honeycombed with other 
small craters, the view is superb. 

The way leading to O-ManagO 
takes one first along the Chuzenji 



road as far as Senjo-ga-hara, where 
we turn to the 1. close by a fa- 
vourite cold spring. We then skirt 
the moor, passing through a thick 
wood, and after 2£ hrs. from Yu- 
moto, arrive at a shrine containing 
a stone image of Shozuka-uo-Baba, 
with a strange medley of ex-votos 
hanging outside. Shortly after- 
wards we turn to the 1., and in \ hr. 
reach the torii of O-Manago. The 
distance to the summit is 1 ri& clio, 
the real ascent beginning at a 
bronze image of Fudo on a large stone 
pedestal. Three-quarters of the 
way up, we come to another bronze 
image erected in honour of the 
mountain god of Ontake in Shinshu ; 
and the last bit of the ascent is over 
precipitous rocks, where chains are 
fixed to assist the climber. On the 
top stands a wooden shrine, with a 
bronze image behind it, said to be 
Kunitoko-tachi, the Earth-god. The 
view is less extensive than that from 
Nantai-zan. In order to ascend 

Naiiffti-zau from this, the Yumo- 
to side, it is not necessary to go all 
the way up O-Manago, as a path 
to Nantai diverges r. at the torii 
above-mentioned. In this way 
Nantai-zan can be ascended with 
greater ease than from Chuzenji. 
The whole climb, part of which is 
stiff and leads over roots of trees, 
takes from 4J to 5 hrs. 

Japanese pilgrims make the round 
of the various mountains near 
Nikko by ascending first Nyoho- 
zan and then Ko-Manago, descend- 
ing to a place called Sabusawa, and 
ascending O-Manago from the back. 
They sleep at the Shizu hut, climb 
Taro-zan in the forenoon, Nantai- 
zan in the afternoon, and descend 
to Chuzenji. 



178 



Boute 15. — From Nikko to Ikao via Ashio. 



ROUTE 15. 

Fbom Nikko to Ikao by the 
Valley of the Wataease-gawa. 
[koshin - zan.] [chuzenji to 
Ashio.] 

Itinerary. 

NIKKO to:- Ri. Clio. M. 

Top of pass 3 8 8 

ASHIO 3 2 7J 

Sori 2 21 6| 

Godo 2 12 5| 

Hanawa 1 — 2J 

OMAMA 3 4 7J 

Total 15 11 37J 



From Omama to Tokyo by train 
in 4 J hrs. Or from Omama by 
train in § hr. to Maebashi, whence 
see Route 12. 

The road from Nikko to Omama 
over the Hoso-o Pass, whose sum- 
mit is 4,100 ft. above sea level, is 
very rough, but generally practic- 
able for jinrikishas. Pedestrians 
may avail themselves of numerous 
short-cuts on the way up. The 
Watarase-gawa is reached before 
entering 

Ashio (Inns, Izumi-ya, Tsuru-ya). 
This place, famed for its copper 
mines, which are the most produc- 
tive in Japan, lies in a deep valley 
at an altitude of about 2,300 ft. 
The Mines, of which there are two 
in the neighbourhood, bear re- 
spectively the names of Ashio and 
Kotaki, and are about 3 m. from 
the town. Persons desirous of in- 
specting the mines should obtain an 
introduction from the Head Office in 
Tokyo. 

The ore is found in a matrix of clay, 
calcite, and quartz, and is almost entirely 
the pyrite or copper sulphide, although a 
small quantity of oxide also occurs. The 
lodes vary from 6 to 20 ft. in width. The 
most approved modern processes of treat- 
ing the ore are in use. The electricity for 
the motors in the Ashio mine is generated 
by water-power at a station about \% m. 
distant. The average yield is 19 per cent. 
of metal, and the total annual product of 



finished metal from the two mines reaches 
the remarkable figure of 3,600 tons. A 
rope-way some 3 miles in length has been 
constructed over the Ashio Pass for con- 
venience of transport. It consists of a 
continuous steel-rope, 6 m. long, carried 
on posts, and revolving on two drums, one 
a,t each end. Immense hooks are fastened 
to the rope by thin copper bands at a 
distance of about 80 or 100 yds. apart, the 
ascending line carrying bags of coke or 
coal, the descending, bars of smelted ore 
weighing 63 lbs. each. At some points 
the wire is several hundreds of feet above 
the ground. A horse tramway now con- 
nects Nikko with the rope-way. 

It should be borne in mind that 
by making an early start from 
Nikko over the Hoso-o Pass or from 
Chuzenji by the path described on 
p. 180, the Ashio mines may be 
taken en route, and done on the 
same day. Six miles will thus be 
saved either way. The Kotaki 
mines are in another direction, on 
the way to Koshin-zan ; but it is 
difficult to combine a visit to the 
rocks and the mines in one day. 

[An extra day at Ashio may well 
be devoted to visiting the 
wonderful rocks of KosliSn-zan. 
It is a distance of about 1 m. 
from Ashio to the cross-roads, 
where the 1. leads to Omama, 
and the r. to Kotaki and Ko- 
shin-zan. From the cross- 
roads to the mines is approx- 
imately If m., whence to the 
point called Bessho, 4,500 
ft., where the rock scenery be- 
gins, the distance has been 
estimated at 6 m. In order to 
visit the rocks, it is necessary to 
engage the services of a guide 
who lives at the hut. The whole 
round will take about 2 J hrs., 
and is perfectly safe for all 
except those who are apt to be 
troubled with dizziness. 

Leaving the hut by the path 
on the S. side, we commence 
the round of the rocks, scram- 
bling up and down the steepest 
places imaginable, traversing 
deep ravines on rough foot 
bridges, and crawling round the 
face of precipices by the aid of 



Kosliin-zan. The Watarase-gawa. 



179 



iron chains and foot-steps cut 
in the solid rock. For such 
work the waraji is of great 
convenience. A point called Mi- 
harashi commands a magnifi- 
cent prospect of the dense 
forest-covered mountains below, 
and Tsukuba-san in the distant 
plain. Behind, the eye rests 
upon the gigantic rockwork, 
amidst which conifers have 
perched themselves in inacces- 
sible nooks and crannies. To 
the various features of the 
landscape, more or less fanciful 
names have been given. The 
most striking are the San-jit- 
san-gen, a mass of precipices 
dedicated to Kwannon ; the 
Spring dedicated to Yakushi, 
the waters of which are 
believed to be efficacious in 
-cases of eye disease ; the 
Kinoko-seki, or Mushroom 
Hock, beyond which comes the 
Yagura-seki, supposed to resem- 
ble the towers on the walls of a 
fortress; next the TJrami-ga- 
taki, or Back View Cascade, 
which falls from a ledge above 
in silvery threads. The huge 
precipice close by is called the 
Go-shiki no seki, or Rock of the 
Five Colours. The guide points 
out a rock, the Men-seki, in 
which a remote likeness to a 
human face may be traced. 
Above this is the Go-ju no To, 
or Five-storied Pagoda, and 
near it, a small natural arch 
called the Ichi no mon. Creep- 
ing through this, the path 
reaches the Bonji-seki, or 
Sanskrit Character Bocks, next 
passing the Raiko-dani, a deep 
gully supposed to have some 
occult relation with the ori- 
gin of thunder-storms ; the 
Toro-iwa, or Stone-lantern 
Rock; the Fuji-mi-seki, whence 
the upper half of Fuji is seen ; 
the Shishi-seki, or Lion Rock ; 
the Ogi-iwaya, or Fan Cavern ; 
and the Zo-seki, or Elephant 
Hock. Next we come to where 



a huge natural bridge, called 
the Ama no hashi, or Bridge of 
Heaven, used to span the 
ravine until destroyed by an 
earthquake in 1824. On the 
other side is a hole about 6 ft. 
in diameter, called Ni no mon, 
or Second Gate, where the 
bridge terminated. Ascending 
from this point a very narrow 
crevice by the aid of chains, 
the path reaches the Mi-harashi 
already mentioned. Then pass- 
ing behind a precipitous de- 
tached rock, called the Bydbu- 
iiva from its resemblance to a 
screen, we ascend a gorge, and 
finally reach the Oku-no-in 
(5,450 ft.), where in three 
caverns are small shrines de- 
dicated _to the three Shinto 
deities Onamuji, Saruta-hiko, 
and Sukuna-bikona. It was the 
second of these whose worship 
was originally established on 
this mountain under the title 
of Koshin. On turning the 
corner just beyond, we see the 
tops of Nantai-zan and O- 
Manago bearing about N., and 
descending the hillside, reach 
the Bessho again in 25 min. 
from the Oku-no-in. The de- 
scent to the huts at the base of 
the mountain will take nearly 
2J hrs.] 

The scenery the whole way along 
the banks of the Watarase-gawa is 
delightful, and especially between 
Ashio and Godo quite romantic. 
Occasionally the road actually over- 
hangs the river, which now flows 
on in a perfectly placid course, 
while at others it foams and dashes 
amidst tremendous boulders. After 
passing 

Sori (Inn, Komatsu-ya), a glade 
of fine cryptomerias attests the 
priestly care formerly bestowed on 
the temple of Tenno. The road 
then winds up and down the thickly 
wooded side of the valley, high 
above the rushing waters of the 
river to 



180 Route 16.— From Nikko to Ikao over the Konsei-toge. 



fiiodo (Inn, Tama-ya), and 
Hauawa {Inn, Wakamatsu-ya). 
After the latter place it becomes 
less picturesque, leading for most 
of the way across a cultivated 
plateau. The vill. seen on the r. 
bank of the river beyond Hanawa is 
Mizunuma (Inn by * Midori Genki- 
chi), from which it is possible to 
ascend Akagi-san by a shorter 
though rougher route than that 
from Ogo. Large quantities of ai 
are taken both with the fly and the 
net in the Watarase-gawa, which is 
rejoined just above 

Omanta (Inn, Tsuru-ya), seep. 160. 
[An alternative way from Nikko 
to Ashio is via Chuzenji, whence 
over the mountains in about 5 
hrs. steady walking by a path 
impracticable for conveyances 
of any sort. A boat is taken 
across the lake from Chu- 
zenji to Ase-ga-hama, \ hr., 
whence a climb of 8 cho leads 
through a wood to the crest of 
the Asegata-tbge, commanding a 
beautiful prospect. Tier upon 
tier rise the forest-clad ridges 
that close in the valley of 
the Watarase. The way down 
the pass lies through narrow 
valleys between steep and 
scantily wooded hills, and over 
rough stones along the torrent 
bed. About 10 m. from Chu- 
zenji the flourishing mining 
vill. of Akakura, with its copper 
smelting works, is passed ; 
whence to Ashio some 2J m. 
further on, the road, though 
rough and stony, is practicable 
for jinrikishas.] 



ROUTE 16. 

From Nikko to Ikao over the 
Konsei-toge. 

Itinerary. 

NIKKO :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Chuzenji 3 12 7J 

Yumoto 2 27 6| 

Top of Konsei Pass 1 18 3| 

Higashi Ogawa 4 18 11 

Sukagawa 1 18 3f 

Okkai 2 — 5 

Ohara 1 8 3 

Takahira 1 23 1 

NUMATA 2 13 5f 

Tanashita 2 15 6 

Shibukawa 2 34 7J 

IKAO 2 17 6 

Total 28 23 70 



On this route an idea is gained 
of the dense forest that covers 
so large a portion of the cen- 
tral mountain-range ; and the val- 
leys of the Katashina-gawa and 
Tonegawa, down which most of the 
latter part of the way leads, are 
most picturesque. Travellers wish- 



Tokyo this way 
Ikao can join 
Maebashi, 3 ri 
Shibukawa, the 



iDg to return to 
without visiting 
the railway at 
27 cho beyond 
railway journey occupying 3J hrs. 
The means of transport for bag- 
gage on this route are : — coolies over 
the Konsei-toge to Higashi-Ogawa, 
horses not being taken across the 
pass ; horses to Numata, and thence 
jinrikisha or basha. 

To start from Nikko itself makes 
an awkward division of the journey. 
The start should be made from 
Chuzenji, in which case, sleeping 
the first night at Higashi Ogawa 
and the second at Numata, the 
traveller will reach Ikao on the 
afternoon of the third day. 

The way up the Konsei-toge is a 
continued gentle ascent through a 
forest with an undergrowth of bam- 
boo grass, terminating in a steep 
climb. From the top of the pass on 



TIte Konsei-toge. Numata. 



181 



looking round, are seen the thickly 
wooded slopes converging towards 
the dark waters of Lake Yum o to, 
behind which looms up in bold 
relief the massive form of Nantai- 
zan, flanked on the 1. by O-Manago. 
To the r. a glimpse is caught of a 
portion of Lake Chuzenji, while 
Mount Tsukuba rises in the distant 
plain beyond. On the Joshu side 
the thick foliage intercepts all view, 
and there is an equal absence of 
distant prospect during the whole 
of the long downward walk, neither 
is there any sign of human habita- 
tion in the forest, except a solitary 
hunter's hut. Even this is desert- 
ed during the summer, at which 
season alone the tourist will think of 
coming this away, since the road is 
practically impassable from the end 
of October to well on in March. 
The foliage is very fine, and in the 
higher part of the forest a peculiar 
effect is produced by a drapery of 
moss, hanging in gray filaments from 
the branches of the tall conifers. 
On nearing Ogawa-no-Yumoto, a 
few huts with thermal springs about 
1 ri from the vill. of Higashi Ogawa, 
the path follows a stream flowing 
down from Shiran e-san. 

Higaslii Ogawa (Inn, by Kurata 
Rinzaburo) is 2,300ft. above the sea. 
The Ogawa, from which this vill. 
takes its name, is a small tributar}^ 
of the Katashina-gawa, itself an 
affluent of the Tonegawa. 

Leaving Higashi Ogawa, and con- 
tinuing down the valley of the 
Ogawa, dotted with many hamlets, 
we cross over a hill before reaching 

Sukagawa in the valley of the 
Katashina-gawa. From a ridge at 
the foot of which lie two hamlets 
with curious names — Hikage Chido- 
ri, or Shady Chidori, and Hinata- 
Chidori, or Sunny Chidori, — there 
is a fine view, on looking back, of 
this valley stretching far away to 
the N. The two hamlets are 
situated on opposite sides of the 
stream, and united by a bridge. 
Observe the terrace-like formation 
of the hills at the back of Hikage 



Chidori and all the way on to 
below Numata. Three terraces at 
least 2 m. long are distinctly 
marked, each of the lower two being 
a few hundred yards wide, and the 
upper one, surmounted by the usual 
irregular ridge, being from J to f m. 
in width. The course of these 
ridges, which seem to mark the suc- 
cessive positions at different periods 
of a river bank, is S. W. by N.E. 
We next reach 

Okkai (Lin, by Hoshino), near 
which the river dashes between 
perpendicular walls of porphyry. 

[Opposite Okkai, on the far side 
of a small affluent of the Kata- 
shina-gawa, lies the vill. of 
Oyu. This place may be taken 
as a starting-point for the climb 
of Akagi-san (see p. 160), the 
descent being made to Numata 
on the other side.] 

The path now leaves the valley of 
the Katashina-gawa, and crossing 
a well-cultivated upland, comes to 

Ohara (Inn, Kishi-ya), whence it 
winds over the hills and up the 
Kazusaka-toge. The view from this 
point is superb, including Haruna- 
san, the Koshti Koma-ga-take, 
Yatsu-ga-take, Asama-yama, Yaha- 
zu-yama, and the Shiran e of Kusa- 
tsu. At 

Takaliira, the road becomes level 
and practicable for jinrikisbas. 

Numata (Inn, Odake-ya) was 
formerly a castle-town. Soon after 
passing it we enter the valley of the 
Tonegawa, where trout-fishing is 
briskly carried on. A portion of the 
river is enclosed with stones and 
fences running out from each bank 
towards the centre of the stream, 
where a bamboo platform inclined 
at an angle of about 15° is fixed 
upon baskets filled with stones. 
The water rushes up this platform 
and leaves the fish at the top. They 
are then caught, and kept alive in 
perforated boxes which are placed 
on the platform. The scenery is 
very picturesque almost the whole 
way from Numata to Shibukawa, 



182 Route 17. — Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu. 



the road passing high and rugged 
cliffs that overhang the Tonegawa. 
At one point, where the cliff rising 
sheer from the river allows no room 
for a pathway, a passage about 50 
ft. long has been cut through the 
solid rock. 

[About 1J m. before reaching 
Shibukawa, a road diverges 1. to 
Maebashi via the villag9S of 
Shiroi and Hasseki, whence a 
narrow pathway tunnelled 
through the rock in many 
places leads along the bank 
of the Tonegawa to the bridge 
crossed by the tram from Ikao 
to Maebashi.] 

Sliibukawn is a considerable 
town. Hence to Ikao is, for the 
most part, a gentle ascent over 
grassy mountain slopes. For a de- 
tailed account of Ikao and Neigh- 
bourhood, see Route 12. 



EOUTE 17. 

Trips in the Provinces op Hita- 
chi, Shimosa, Kazusa, and Bo- 
shu. 

1. tokyo to tsukuba-san, kasama, 
and mito. 2. tokyo to narita, 
kadori, choshi, and kashima. 
3. kashima to mito. 4. tokyo 
to kisarazu, kano-zan, noko- 
giri - yama, and tateyama. 
5. hoyo to kominato. 6. ways 
back from kominato. 

These four provinces form a natural 
division of the country, all partaking 
more or less of the same characteristics 
of flatness and sandiness. The opinion 
of geologists is that a great part of this 
district, whose sands seem to have been 
washed up by the sea, together with the 
wide Tokyo plain which is formed by 
alluvium washed down from the central 
mountain-ranges, was submerged in quite 
recent times, and that only the southern 
half of the peninsula of Kazusa-Boshu 



stood up out of the waves. This process 
of rising and drying is still going on. 
The large lagoons on the lower course 
of the Tonegawa gradually shrink in size, 
and the same is true of Tokyo Bay. 
From these considerations, it will be in- 
ferred that parts of this district are 
somewhat dreary travelling. Mount 
Tsukuba (2,880 ft.) in the N., and the 
S. portion from Kano-zan downwards, 
with tuff ranges which, though not ex- 
ceeding 1,200 ft., seem higher because 
rising almost directly from the sea, will 
best repay the tourist's trouble. In the 
S. more particularly, there are lovely 
views, as well as a mild winter climate 
due to the Kuroshio, or Japanese Gulf- 
Stream. 

The three provinces of Shimosa, Kazu- 
sa, and Boshu anciently formed one, under 
the name Fusa no Kuni, said to have been 
derived from the excellent quality of the 
hemp grown there. The district was 
subsequently divided into Upper and 
Lower, or Kami tsu Fusa and Shimo tsu 
Fusa, contracted into Kazusa and Shimosa, 
and part of the former was subsequently 
constituted into the province of Awa, 
better known by its Chinese name of 
Boshu. "Upper " and " Lower" seem to 
have been employed to denote the relative 
proximity of these two provinces to the 
ancient capital. Kazusa, Boshu, and the 
greater part of Shimosa now constitute 
the prefecture of Chiba, called after a 
town situated on the E. shore of Tokyo 
Buy, The rest of Shimosa and Hitachi 
are included in the prefecture of Ibaraki, 
of which Mito is the capital. 

1. — Ascent op Tsukuba. Kasama 
and Mito. 

Mito Railway. 



CD 






1st 


Names 




* c M 


of 


Remarks. 


s ^ 


Stations. 












TOKYO (Ueno). 


{■ See Northren 
Railway, 


48 m. 


OYAMA Jet 






( Route 68. 


52i 


Yuki. 




54^- 


Kawashima. 




58| 


Shimodate 


( Alight for 
1 Tsukuba. 




661 


Iwase. 




71 


Fukuhara. 




75 


Kasama. 




78| 


Shishido. 




m 


Uchihara. 




S9| MITO. 





The journey by rail to Shimodate,, 
the station for Tsukuba, occupies 
a little over 3 hrs. Jinrikishas can 



i 



Ascent of Tsuhiiba-san. Kasama. 



183 



thence be taken to the vill. of 
Oshima, near the foot of the moun- 
tain, a distance of about 4 ri over a 
level and fairly good road ; and 
although the ascent to the vill. of 
Tsukuba is 1 hr. rough walking, the 
whole journey may be accomplished 
in an afternoon from Tokyo. There 
is fair accommodation at 

Sllimodate (Inn, Tomo-ya) ; but 
it is best to push on to Tsukuba, 
where the inns are better. The 
jinrikisha-men will act as guides as 
far as the cleanly little vill. of 

Tsukuba {Inn, *Edo-ya), which 
lies about half-way up the moun- 
tain, and contains numerous houses 
much frequented by the people of 
the province of Hitachi. Most of 
the inns command a fine view of the 
plain of Tokyo, stretching away 
towards Fuji. The ascent of the 
mountain begins immediately after 
leaving the vill., the path passing 
through the grounds of a temple. 
From this point to the summit of 
the W. peak, called Nantai-zan 
( Male Mountain ), the distance 
is about 50 cho. This is the usual 
ascent, being less steep than the 
path up the E. and lower peak, 
Nyotai-zan (Female Mountain). 
At the summit are numerous shrines, 
of which the chief is dedicated to 
Izanagi. Similarly, the temple on 
Nyotai-zan is dedicated to his con- 
sort Izanami. There is a magnifi- 
cent view of the Tokyo plain, Fuji, 
Asama-yama, and the Nikko range. 

The name Tsukuba is said to be com- 
posed of two Chinese words meaning 
" built bank ; " and the leg-end is that Iza- 
nagi and Izanami constructed the moun- 
tain as a bulwark against the waves of 
the Pacific Ocean, which they bad forced 
to retire to the other side of Kashima, 
formerly an island in the sea. This 
tradition is in accordance with the fact, 
recently verified by geologists, that the 
E. shores of Japan have been gradually 
rising during many centuries past. One 
legend says that Tsukuba is a fragment 
of the sacred mountain in China called 
Godai-san, which broke off and flew over 
to Japan. This is supposed to account for 
the peculiar plants found on it. But the 
fact is that no botanical species occur 
here that are not also found on other 
Japanese mountains, although the inhabi- 



tants of the vicinity, noticing the differ- 
ence between the floras of the mountain 
and the plain, might naturally be led to 
attribute a miraculous origin to the 
former. 

Pines and cryptomerias cover the 
mountain, and the rocks about the 
summits are awkward to scramble 
over, the assistance of an iron chain 
being necessary in parts. From the 
W. to the E. peak is an interval 
of about j m. The descent from 
the latter is 70 did. It passes 
over and between huge rocks, to 
which fanciful names have been 
given, from their supposed resem- 
blance to portions of the human 
body. The ascent and descent take 
about 4 hrs. 

Leaving Shimodate, the train 
reaches in 1 hr. the small town of 

Kasama (Inn, *Itsutsu-ya), stand- 
ing at the base of a lofty hill whose 
summit was formerly crowned by 
the castle of the Daimyd Makino 
Etchu-uo-Kami. The site is easily 
reached by a path leading from the 
broad main street of the town. At 
intervals, traces are still visible of 
the old stone-faced embankments, 
of small but deep dry ditches, and 
of narrow bridges and heavy gate- 
ways. At the summit are steep 
flighfcs of stone steps, and above all 
is the limited space originally 
occupied by the Daimyo's palace, 
round which runs a high earthen 
embankment. The place is in- 
teresting, and gives a good idea of 
the style of Japanese fortifications 
where nature rather than art had, 
raised the defences. The strong- 
hold must, under any circum- 
stances, have been well-nigh im- 
pregnable. The Temple of Inari, 
once of high repute, is small in 
size. It stands on the 1. of the 
main street, the approach being up 
a narrow alley, through an almost 
continuous archway of tor Li, placed 
within a few inches of each other. 
The wood-carvings in the chapel 
are beautiful, the human figures 
being exceptionally well-formed. 

There is a jinrikisha road from 



184 Route 17. — Hitachi, SMmma, Kazusa, and Boshu. 



Kasama to Mito (4>£ ri) ; but it is 

not recommended if the train be 
available. The time by rail is 50 
rain. As tlie train approaches 
Mito, a number of cavities are seen 
on the 1. in the high bluff on which 
a portion of the town is built. 
These galleries were hollowed out 
for the sake of the blocks used in the 
manufacture of soft-stone furnaces. 

Mito (Inn, Suzuki-ya, with a 
branch establishment near the rail- 
way station), the principal town 
of the province of Hitachi and 
capital of the prefecture of Iba- 
raki, lies some 3 ri inland from 
the shore of the Pacific Ocean, 
on rising ground in the midst of a 
wide plain. The town is in three divi- 
sions, the Lower Town, the Upper 
Town, and the Castle Enclosure 
which lies between the other two. 
The castle, where formerly lived 
the Princes of Mito, is picturesquely 
situated on the crest of the lofty 
ground that rises from the plain. 
The defences consisted of deep 
trenches on the upper town side, 
and lofty banks — the edge of the 
hill, in fact — on the other, with a 
small moat below. Three large 
gates and one tower still remain. 
It is worth walking round the castle 
and under the beautiful trees within 
the grounds. The Public Garden 
on the E. of the upper town, over- 
looking the large mere of Semba, is 
also prettily situated. 

It was laid out some forty-five years 
a.uo by Rekko, Prince of Mito, as a 
retreat for himsslf after handing over the 
cares of government to his successor. 

A good view is obtained from the 
summer-house in the garden, where 
men of letters formerly assembled to 
write verses and practise penman- 
ship. The staple manufactures of 
Mito are cloth and paper. Tobacco 
is aiso made into cigarettes in large 
quantities, and a considerable ex- 
port trade is carried on in both salt 
and fresh-water fish. 

The visitor with time to spare 
may run out by jinrikisha to the 



pleasant sea-side vill. of Oarai(Inn, 
Kimpa-ro), 3J ri, a favourite retreat 
of the Mito folk. 

2. — Tokyo to [Chiba,] Nabita, 
[Kasamobi,] Kadobi, [Choshi,] 
and kashima. 

Itinerary. 

TOKYO to :— Ri. CM. M. 

Ichikawa 3 25 9 

Yawata 29 2 

Funabashi 1 12 3} 

Owada 2 28 6| 

Usui 2 — 5 

SAKURA 1 13 3£ 

Shusui 1 3 2J 

NARITA 2 9 5J 

Ino 3 15 8| 

Sawara 2 26 6| 

Kadori 28 2 

Tsunomiya 18 1J 

( Ofunatsu boat ) 

KASHIMA — 18 — ) 

CHOSHI (boat) . . 10 15 25J 

Total 33 5 81 



Omnibuses ply between Ryogoku- 
bashi (Tokyo) aud Chiba, leaving 
either place several times daily. A 
small steamer also runs daily, mak- 
ing the passage in 3^ hrs. An 
omnibus leaves Ryogoku-bashi at 
7 a.m. daily for Narita ; but jinriki- 
shas, which are procurable at the 
omnibus office at fixed rates, are 
to be preferred. In any case the 
omnibus would have to be left in 
order to visit the shrine of Sakura 
Sogoro, which is off the main road to 
Narita, but approachable by jinriki- 
sha. The road is nearly level the 
whole way, a remark applicable to 
this route in general. The Ichi- 
kawa ferry (Inn, Musashi-ya on 
the far side) over the Yedogawa 
marks the Treaty Limit at this 
point. Half a mile to the 1., on the 
1. bank of the river, lies the bluff of 
Kdnodai described on p. 121. 

Yawata (Inn, Nakamura-ya) 
takes its name from a temple stand- 
ing on the 1. side of the village street. 
The buildings are poor; but by 



Chiba. ' Sakura. 



185 



the side of the chapel is a remarkable 
icho tree, the trunk of which, about 
10 ft. in diameter, has the ap- 
pearance of being formed of some 
40 or 50 trees of different sizes, 
growing together like a huge faggot. 
A little further r. is a small grove of 
bamboos and keyaki-tvees to which 
the villagers attribute peculiar 
powers. 

Tradition avers that Kornon, the second 
Prince of Mito, having heen bold enough 
to venture within, was thrown to the 
ground by some supernatural agency. 
Fearing to offend the spirit of the grove, 
the villagers have always remained igno- 
rant of its mysteries, and have therefore 
given it the name of Ymoata Shirazu, or 
" Yawata Knows-not." 

Fun abash i {Inn, Ebi-ya) is a 
large town, a little way inland from 
Tokyo Bay. 

This place is celebrated as having been 
the rendezvous of the village chiefs who, 
in 1644, headed by the famous Sakura 
Sogoro, proceeded to Yedo to protest 
against the tyranny of the lord of Sakura. 
Even to protest was in those days a capi- 
tal offence, acquiescence in all the man- 
dates of his superiors being an inferior's 
sole and sufficient duty. Not Sogoro only 
was put to death : his wife was crucified 
with him, and their three children de- 
capitated before their eyes. One, a child 
of seven, was butchered as he was eating 
the sweetmeats thrown to him by the 
compassionate spectators. This pathetic 
story is graphically told in Yol. II. of 
Mitford's Tales of Old Japan. 

[The carriage road, 4J ri, to Chiba 
(Inns Kano-ya, Umematsu-ya), 
capital of the prefecture of the 
same name, diverges r. at the 
end of the main street of Funa- 
bashi. This prefecture ranks 
next to Yezo in the abundance 
of its marine products, the dis- 
trict of Kujukuri to the S. of 
Cape Inuboe affording the 
richest field. Three miles be- 
fore reaching the city, at the 
fishing hamlet of Inage, is 
a bathing establishment called 
Kaiki-kwan, where it may be 
pleasanter to stop than at Chiba. 
At Imai, just outside Chiba, 
and the succeeding vills. along 
the coast, a considerable manu- 



facture of starch from the 
sweet potato, is carried on. A 
good 3 m. walk from Chiba 
is to the ancient Temple of 
Daiganji, standing in a pine 
forest where thousands of cor- 
morants roost and build their 
nests. There is a finely graded 
road from Chiba to Sakura and 
Narita through pleasant coun- 
try. The total distance to 
Narita is about 8 ri ; but this 
may be shortened by taking 
the branch road which diverges 
at the hamlet of Doi, and re- 
joins in 1 hr. the main road to 
Narita at the town of Shusui.] 

After Funabashi, the road 
traverses an upland country where 
some of the best rice in Japan is 
grown; it then passes over the 
wide undulating moor of Narashino, 
where the troops forming the 
Tokyo garrison are occasionally re- 
viewed. On the 1. are seen some 
barracks for their accommodation. 
The locality is believed to be 
haunted by the magic foxes and 
badgers that play so important a 
part in Japanese folk-lore. A little 
beyond 

Owada (Inns, Masu-ya, Naka- 
mura-ya), the narrow canal which 
brings the Imba lagoon into com- 
munication with Tokyo Bay is 
crossed. 

Usui (Inn, Ota-ya) is a good- 
sized posting-station on the S. shore 
of the lagoon. 

Sakura {Inn, Kome-ya) is a gar- 
rison town. At an angle of the 
road 1., before reaching the town 
and just within view of the castle 
site, is the old execution-ground, 
where the farmer Sogoro and his 
family suffered death in 1645. A 
large memorial-stone now marks 
the spot. The road passes through 
the lower town by the side of the 
moat, and rises into the upper 
town. 

The castle was formerly the residence 
of the chief of the Hotta family, which 
furnished many statesmen to the Goroju, 



186 Route 17. — Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu. 



or Chief Council of the Tokugawa 
Shoguns. Its site is now occupied by 
barracks. 

A short distance beyond 

Shnsni (Inn, Kome-ya), a road 
diverges 1. for about 1 n to a 
shrine erected in Kozu-mura to the 
memory of Sakura Sogoro. The 
buildings are all the outcome of 
modern piety, plain and substantial, 
but adorned with carvings of aver- 
age merit. Charms bearing the 
name and pictures of the martyred 
peasant with his wife and children 
sell in large numbers. Close by on 
the r. is Sogoro's grave, where in- 
cense is kept perpetually burn- 
ing. It is not necessary to retrace 
one's steps, as the road from 
Sogoro's shrine continues on until 
it rejoins the main road again close 
to Narita. 

Narita (Inns, Ebi-ya, Wakama- 
tsu-ya) is famed for its great Temple 
of Fudo, to which pilgrimages are 
made from all parts of the country. 
The wood-carvings adorning it are 
specially noteworthy. 

The full name of this holy place is 
Narlta-san Shingo Shi7ishoji, i.e. " the 
Divinely Protected Temple of Recent Vic- 
tory on Mount Narita." The story of its 
origin is as follows : — 

At the time of the foundation of the 
Buddhist faith, an Indian sculptor named 
Bishukatsuma carved a wonder-working 
image of the god Fudo (see pp. 41-2), which 
image, after the lapse of many centuries, 
was sent to China, where it passed into 
the hands of a holy priest named Keikwa 
Ajari. When the great Japanese saint, 
Kobo Daishi, visited China in A.D. 804, 
to seek instruction in Buddhist mysteries, 
this priest it was who became his teacher ; 
and when teacher and disciple were about 
to part, each was warned in a dream 
that the miraculous image was destined 
for Japan, and accordingly Kobo Daishi 
brought it home with him and enshrined 
it in a temple on mount Takao near 
Kyoto, together with attendant figures of 
Seitaka Doji and Kongara Doji which he 
carved with his own hand. Now it hap- 
pened that about a century and a half 
later, a revolution broke out. Masakado, 
a courtier of high birth, taking offence 
at the refusal to appoint him on the staff 
of an embassy about to start for China, 
rebelled again st the legitimate sovereign, 
Shujaku Tenno. Retiring to his native 
province of Shimosa, he sacrilegiously 
assumed the title of Mikado, built him- 



self a capital in which the place-names 
round about Kyoto were plagiarised, 
established a mimic Court, and having 
made himself master of several provinces 
in Eastern Japan, prepared to march 
upon Kyoto. The legitimate Mikado, 
thereupon, not content with despatching 
against the rebel such valiant loyal war- 
riors as Fujiwara-no-Tadabami, Taira-no- 
Sadamori, and Tawara T6da Hidesato, 
applied to the priests for supernatural 
assistance. It was found that no god was 
so powerful as Fudo, and no image of 
him so miraculous as that which Kobo 
Daishi had brought over. Accordingly 
Kwancho Daisojo, a celebrated arch- 
bishop of those days, who was also a 
scion of the Imperial family, was com- 
missioned to carry the image to the seat 
of war and exorcise the enemy. The 
archbishop _ embarked at Naniwa (now 
the city of Osaka), and soon landed on the 
coast of Eastern Japan, whence he pro- 
ceeded inland, and, having set up the 
miraculous image on a rock near the 
rebel's capital, performed before it for 
three weeks the G-oma ceremony, that is, 
prayers paid incantations recited while a 
fire is kept burning on the altar. The 
result was the total defeat and death of 
Masakado in the year 940, the triumph 
of the loyalists, and preparations on the 
part of the archbishop to return home, 
when lo and behold! the image waxed 
heavy as a rock, and utterly refused to 
move ! As usual, a dream served to ex- 
plain, matters. The god Fudo appeared, 
and declared his intention of remaining 
where he was, to bless and civilise East- 
ern Japan. Accordingly the grateful 
Mikado granted funds for the construc- 
tion of a temple on a grand scale ; and as 
local circumstances forbade remaining on 
the exact spot where the image had at 
first been set up, lots were drawn by 
thirty-three villages in the surrounding 
country-side, and the lot fell on Narita. 
Time brought further changes, and the 
present site— the hill known as Myo- 
ken-zan— was built on only in 1704. Pro- 
bably the great popularity of the Narita 
shrine dates from about that period. In 
any case, the then recent founding of the 
new capital, Yedo, in the near neighbour- 
hood had furnished it with a large 
number of potential pilgrims ; and for 
some reason otherwise inexplicable, actors 
and other public entertainers, who nourish 
most in great cities, have long been its 
most ardent votaries. Many repairs and 
additions have been made during the 
present century, the great Ni-o gate dating 
from 1831, and the Mido from 1856. Of 
the many relics preserved in the treasure- 
house of Narita, the most highly valued 
is the Amakunl no hoken, a sword said to 
have been forged by Amakuni, the first 
of all Japanese smiths, for the Emperor 
Mommu (A D. 683—697), who prized it 
equally with his crown regalia. After 
the suppression of Masakado' s rebellion, 



Temple of Fiido at Narita. 



187 



this sword was presented to the god Fudo 
by the then Emperor Shujaku, in grate- 
ful acknowledgment of that deity's assis- 
tance. One touch of it is believed to cure 
insane persons and those possessed of 
foxes. It would seem, however, to be 
now never shown. A festival takes place 
on the 28th of each month. 

The temple stands on the side of 
a hill in a fine grove of cryptomerias 
and other trees. It is approached 
from the inns by a paved avenue 
lined with stone lanterns. To the 
r. of the Tamagaki (stone wall), is a 
well where pilgrims perform the 
ceremony of washing with cold 
water. Close by is the Danjiki-do, 
where devotees retire to fast during 
a whole week, the only refreshment 
permitted to them being the use of 
the cold bath. Formerly the period 
was three weeks. 

Tradition says that this practice was 
instituted about the middle of the 16th 
century by the saint Doyo, who passed 
a hundred days in religious exercises. 
At last his prayers were answered by a 
vision of the god, who offered him the 
choice of a sharp or a blunt sword to 
swallow. The saint chose the sharp one, 
which the god thrust down his throat, 
causing the blood to flow freely. On 
awakening he found his intellectual 
powers immensely increased, and felt no 
traces of the wound. Nevertheless, 
priests' robes dyed with the blood shed on 
this occasion are preserved among the 
treasures of the temple. 

In a building to the r. of the Dan- 
jiki-do, worshippers may often be 
seen seated in a circle, handing 
round one to another a huge rosary 
to which a bunch of horse-hair is 
attached, and chanting the invoca- 
tion Namu Amida Butsu. Opposite 
is the Onna Danjiki-do, reserved for 
females. Both buildings have ex- 
votos over the entrance. 

To the 1. of the entrance, a shrine 
called the Daishi-do dedicated to 
Kobo Daishi contains an image of 
that saint, besides fine carvings of 
dragons. The other buildings on 
the 1. are residences of the 
priests. The Ni-o-mon is a massive 
structure of keyaki wood, orna- 
mented with carvings by Goto 
Kisaburo. Under the architrave 
are eight groups representing Chi- 



nese children at play, and sages 
probably intended for the " Seven 
Sages of the Bamboo Grove," whose 
attributes are chess, music, drawing,, 
and caligraphy. At the r. end are 
groups of young cock-fighters, and 
the child delivered from the tall 
water-jar by his sharp-witted com- 
panion Shiba Onko, who breaks a 
hole in it with a stone to let the 
water escape. In front r. is a sage 
writing an inscription, 1. a sage 
playing on the harp. On the 1. 
side are children playing, and a 
group the central figure of which 
dances to the music of flageolet and 
drum. At the back are groups of 
checker-players and of sages in- 
specting a picture. 

On either side of the steps lead- 
ing up from this gate to the Hondo, 
or Main Temple, the prettily ar- 
ranged rockwork crowded with ex- 
votos in bronze and stone has a 
peculiarly bizarre and pleasing 
effect. 

Ascending the steps, the first 
thing that strikes the eye is the 
huge receptacle for money-offerings. 
Above it is a large panel with carv- 
ings of phoenixes gorgeously colour- 
ed, and on the r. and 1. of this are 
coloured panels of peacocks, also in 
relief. This is the only colouring 
about the building, the rest of the 
exterior being of unpainted keyaki. 
The two sides and the back are de- 
corated with eight splendid panels, 
each 9 ft. by 4 ft., representing 
groups of the Go-hyaku Bakan in 
low relief, with an immense variety 
of incident and portraiture. They 
were carved by Matsurnoto Byozan. 
On the huge doors that close the 
sliding windows of this part of the 
building, are beautiful carvings of 
the Tiventy-four Paragons of Filial 
Piety, each panel (2J ft. by 2 ft.) 
containing two subjects, by Shima- 
mura Shumbyo. 

The dragon and angels on the 
ceiling, and the bold sketches of the 
Ju-roku Bakan behind the main 
altar are by Kano Kazunobu, a 
painter of the present century. 



188 Route 17. — Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu. 



In the Naijin, or Holy of Holies, 
is the sacred black image of Fudo 
(often called Dainichi, with whom, 
it will be remembered, Fudo is 
identified), hardly visible in the dim 
light. Among the rockery be- 
hind are 36 small bronze figures ; in 
the centre at the top is Fudo in a 
cave, and higher up on the r. the 
saint En-no-Shokaku. The gro- 
tesque figures popularly called Dai- 
ra-boiclii in the gables, which bear 
the ends of the ridge-pole, are excel- 
lent expressions of the effort to sup- 
port a heavy burden. Round the 
building, under the architrave, are 
groups of fabulous animals. The 
three -storied pagoda is a beau- 
tiful example of this architectural 
form, finely decorated and painted. 
The black groups on the four sides 
represent the Sixteen Rakan, the 
work of Shimamura Entetsu. The 
bell -tower opposite is also well worth 
a few minutes' inspection. Close 
by on the r. is a handsome 
library (Kyodo), containing a high- 
ly decorated revolving octagonal 
box borne on the shoulders of parti- 
coloured demons. Note the peculiar 
coffered ceiling painted wiih kalei- 
doscopic patterns. In the ex-voto 
Hall (Ema-clo) to the 1. of the 
Library, are pictures of Fudo help- 
ing suppliants ; also a huge rosary, 
the string of which is a cable made 
of human hair, and various other 
gifts. The two large anchors thick- 
ly encrusted with barnacles were 
found by fishermen near Shirahama, 
off the coast of Boshu. A flight of 
steps leads up to another platform, 
where stands a large red chapel 
called the Kmnyo-do, or Hall of 
Resplendent Light. Another ex- 
voto shed 1. contains a large variety 
of interesting offerings, where 
charms and pictures of all kinds 
may be purchased. 

[Nearly 17 ri S. of Narita, stands 
the noted temple of Kasamori 
dedicated to the Goddess Kwan- 
non. The ordinary pilgrim route 
is from the vill. of Hamaiw on 



the E. shore of Tokyo Bay, 
whence it is a distance of about 
7 ri. The itinerary from Narita 
is as follows : — 

NARITA to :— Ri. Ghb. M. 

Shibayama . . 4 — 9f 

Naruto 3 18 8J 

Togane 1 27 4J 

Oami 1 16 3J 

Honno 1 19 3f 

Mobara 1 24 4 

Chonan 2 — 5 

KASAMORI.. 1 — 2J 

Total .... 16 32 41£ 

The temple is built on a plat- 
form which rests on the point 
of an irregular conical rock 
some 50 ft. in height, the 
edges being supported by stout 
wooden scaffolding, and is 
reached by three flights of 
stairs. A country road connects 
Kasamori with Kominato on 
the Pacific coast, distant about 
11 ri. For Kominato see p. 
193.] 

Travellers wishing to proceed by 
water instead of road, can catch the 
river steamers at Senda (fair accom- 
modation), a distance of some 6 ri 
from Narita. 

The road from Narita lies chiefly 
over moorland to 

Katiori, also called Sawara (Inn, 
Ukishima-ya, besides many others 
crowding the entrance to the splen- 
did grove of trees in which the 
temple stands). 

This temple is dedicated to Futsu-nushi 
or Iwai-nushi, a deified warrior of the 
mythical period, whose symbol is a sword. 
The date of its foundation is unknown, 
but may be placed a good deal earlier 
than the 5th century. The present 
building was erected at the beginning of 
the 17th century, and restored in A.D. 
17<i0. It is said that, as late as the begin- 
ning of the 17th century, the waters of 
the Tonegawa came right up to the base 
of the hill on which the temple stands, 
and that all the corn and rice-fields be- 
tween it and Tsunomiya have been re- 
claimed since that period. 

The temple is in the mediaeval 
style of Shinto architecture, with a 



Kadori. Kashima. Choshi. 



189 



heavy roof of thick shingling, and 
is painted red. R. and 1. of the 
oratory steps, a mirror and a sword, 
emblematic of the two sexes, are 
suspended in bags of brocade on 
branches of the sacred ma-sakaki 
tree. Black lacquered doors close 
the entrance of the chapel. From 
the back of the grove is a fine view 
of the plain to the N., intersected 
by the Tonegawa and the lagoons. 
Tsukuba is visible to the 1. on a 
clear day. Kashima lies out of 
sight behind a wooded hill on the r. 

At Tsimomiya small steamers 
may be availed of to Ofunatsu on 
the Kita-ura Lagoon, whence by 
jinrikisha to 

Kashima (numerous inns), one of 
the greatest places of pilgrimage in 
E. Japan. 

The name Kashima means " Deer 
Island;" but the district is an island 
no longer. It consists of a sandy 
spit, 13 ri by 1 ri, separating the sea 
from the Kita-ura lagoon, and end- 
ing at the mouth of the Tonegawa, 
opposite the town of Choshi. The 
deer used to wander freely through 
the groves round the temple, but 
they have now been almost ex- 
terminated. A broad avenue leads 
to the temple, which is situated in a 
grove of fine cryptomerias. It con- 
sists of an oratory and chapel con- 
nected by a short corridor in the 
usual mediaeval style. 

The principal deity here worshipped is 
Take-mika-zuchi. This god wks one of 
those sent down from heaven to Japan, to 
prepare the advent of the line of earthly 
sovereigns known afterwards as Mikados. 
The temple is usually said to have been 
founded in the "Age of the Gods," and 
certainly dates from the pre-historic 
epoch. From the most ancient times it 
was the practice here, as at Ise, to rebuild 
not only the main temple, but also all the 
inferior ones surrounding it, every twenty 
years ; but about the beginning of the 9th 
century, for reasons of economy, the rule 
became confined to the principal building. 

The temple faces N. But the box 
containing the sword which is the 
embodiment of the god faces East, 
i.e., towards the Pacific Ocean. A 
narrow path behind the temple con- 
ducts to a small enclosure contain- 



ing the celebrated Kaname-islii, or 
" Pivot Stone," supposed to be a 
pillar whose foundation is at the 
centre of the earth. According to 
one tradition, it was sanctified by 
the local god taking his seat on it 
directly after his descent from 
heaven. Another account is that 
under this place lies confined the 
gigantic fish called namazu, whose 
contortions are the cause of earth- 
quakes, and that the stone acts as 
some restraint on the creature's 
movements. Mitsukuni, the second 
Prince of Mito, is said to have dug 
for six days round it without finding 
the lower end. About 1 m. from the 
temple is a stretch of moorland 
called Takama-no-hara, literally, 
the Plain of High Heaven, where 
the gods are supposed to have as- 
sembled in days of old, and where 
stone arrow-heads are still often 
found. 

[River steamers ply from Ofu- 
natsu to Choshi (Bins, *Dai- 
shin, Komai-yasu), a large town 
at the mouth of the Tonegawa,. 
which here contracts, and rolls 
between sharp rocks into the 
sea. 

The chief occupation of the 
inhabitants is fishing. Im- 
mense quantities of iivashi, a 
fish resembling the pilchard 
but smaller, are caught here 
and all along the coast. They 
are boiled in huge cauldrons 
to obtain the oil, which is used 
for lamps ; and the residue, 
dried in the sun, is sent inland 
for manure. 

The whole coast called Ku-ju- 
ku-ri no hama, stretching S. 
from Choshi, is flat, sandy, and 
uninteresting.] 

3. Kashima to Mito. 

This is a distance of 16tJ- ri (40 m.), 
half of which is traversed by boat to 
Hokocla at the N. end of the Kita- 
ura Lagoon, and half by jinrikisha 
along a sandy road. The accom- 
modation is everywhere poor. 



190 Route 17. — Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa and Boshu. 



4. Kano-zan, Nokogiri-yama, and 

Tateyama. 

Small steamers from Tokyo (Rei- 
gau-jima, see p. 88) stop at Sakurai 
for Kano-zan, making the passage in 
3 hrs. Uncomfortable as these boats 
are, the monotonous coast road from 
Tokyo cannot be recommended as 
an alternative. Kano-zan can 
indeed be reached, and the sea pas- 
sage reduced to 45 min. by taking 
the steamer from Uraga to Kanaya; 
(see next page) but there is always 
some uncertainty about the boats' 
calling at the intermediate ports. 

Itinerary. 
SAKURAI to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Kano-zan 4 — 9f 

Tenjin-yama (Mina- 

to) 3 — 7£ 

Take-ga-oka 34 2£ 

Kanaya 1 31 4J 

Motona 1 8 3 

Kachiyama 1 — 2-J 

Hojo 4 14 10| 

TATEYAMA 13 1 

Total 16 28 41 



Sakurai (Inn, Kadomatsu-ya) is a 
vill. 23 cho from the port of Kisa- 
razu (Inns, Fushimi, Torikai), 
where the road to Kano-zan branches 
off from the coast, first ascending a 
pretty valley, and then crossing a 
low range of hills to the hamlet 
of Hokisaku. A short way on, the 
Koito-gawa is crossed, and the 
road, winding through the fields, 
reaches the foot of Kano-zan, up to 
which point it is practicable for 
jinrikishas. The ascent takes about 
f hr. 

The mountain of Kano-zan (also pro- 
nounced Kauo-zan), which rises to a 
height of 1,260 ft. on the borders of the 
provinces of Kazusa and Boshu, is a 
conspicuous object in the view across 
Tokyo Bay, and itself commands a 
magnificent prospect. It is sufficiently 
elevated above the plain to escape the 
flamp air which renders Tokyo so un- 
healthy in summer, and though not high 
enough to have a temperature markedly be- 
low that of the surrounding lowlands, is 
visited by fresh sea-breezes that render it 
an agreeable resort during the hot months. 



Kano - zan ( Inns, Marushiehi, 
Yuyu-kwan), a village of about 100 
houses, stands on the top of the 
mountain. It is divided into an 
upper and lower street, the upper 
street running E. and W., and the 
lower N. and S. Between them, 
surrounded by a thick grove 
of cryptomerias and other conifers, 
stands a large but decaying temple 
dedicated to Yakushi, and erected in 
1708. The inns are situated in the 
upper street facing W., and com- 
mand a superb prospect : — below, the 
blue waters of Tokyo Bay, beyond 
which rises Fuji ; to the 1. the 
Hakone range ; to the r. the Ctyama 
and Tanzawa ranges ; and further 
N. the Nikko mountains, Akagi- 
san, and Tsukuba. Even more 
comprehensive is the view from the 
hill just below the inns, used as 
one of the principal trigonometrical 
survey stations of Japan. One of 
the prettiest walks at Kano-zan is to 
a waterfall, 1 m. from the vill. The 
way there leads from a corner in the 
upper street where there is a school- 
house just opposite the temple of 
Yakushi, and descends in a S. 
direction along the 1. side of a 
thickly wooded valley. The foot- 
path to the fall is not the first one 
reached (which leads to a small 
shrine dedicated to Tenjin), but is 
about ^ m. further on. The volume 
of water, 35 ft. in height, is small ; 
but the basin into which it falls is 
curious, having rocks on either side 
coming together like the bows of an 
ironclad. 

A 10 min. walk affording a view 
unique in its way is as follows : — 

Passing through the lower street 
of Kano-zan towards the N., we 
reach 1. a flight of 218 stone steps, 
at the top of which stands a small 
Shinto shrine. This is the highest 
point of the mountain ; but being 
overgrown with tall trees, the sum- 
mit commands no view. Opposite 
the steps on the r., a short path 
leads to the brow of the hill, whence 
there is a fine prospect towards the 
E. and N. The side of the moun- 



Kano-zan. Nohogiri-yama. 



191 



tain here slopes away very abrupt- 
ly ; and below, as far as the eye can 
reach, lie low but sharp ridges 
covered with brushwood, intersect- 
ing and meeting so as to form a 
multitude of tiny valleys, in most 
of which rice is cultivated. The 
view from this point has therefore 
received the name of Ku-ju-ku 
Tani, or the Ninety-nine Valleys. 

The descent from the vill. of 
Kano-zan to Sakurai (not to be 
confounded with the vill. of the 
same name near Kisarazu) leads 
over sandy hills recently afforested 
with pines, and thence down the 
valley of the Minato-gawa by a good 
road to 

Tercjin-yama or Minato {Inn, 
*Suiryo-kwan). This prettily situat- 
ed place contains a few sake 
breweries and soy manufactories, 
the produce of which is shipped in 
junks to Tokyo; but the population 
consists chiefly of fisher-folk. A 
smooth sandy beach with a W. as- 
pect stretches 1J m. along the 
shore to the N., affording excellent 
bathing. About 1 mile off rises 
Myoken-yama, which commands a 
fine view. Ascending from the 
Minato-gawa and following along 
some low cliffs, the road passes 
through a lofty tunnel hewn in the 
solid rock, just beyond Take-ga-oka 
{Inn, Matsu-ya) . At Hagyu (no inns) 
the local wonder is a small cavern 
containing a well, called Kogane-ido, 
or the Golden Well, on account of a 
golden scum that rises on its sur- 
face. This effect is due to the 
fluorescent property of the water; 
but the simple country folk hang the 
usual emblems of worship about 
the cavern. More tunnelling 
characterises the road from Hagyu 
to 

Kanaya (Inn, Kaji-ya), a poor 
place where steamers, however, 
call to land passengers for Tenjin- 
yama and Kano-zan. It pos- 
sesses a curious relic of anti- 
quity, known by the name of Kana- 
ya\Daimydjin, which is kept shroud- 
ed from public gaze in a chamber 



in the rock immediately behind a 
small, dilapidated Shinto shrine. 
It is a disc of iron, between 4 and 
5 ft. in diameter and some 3 in. 
thick, split into two unequal parts. 

Local tradition says that it was dis- 
covered in the bay some six centuries 
ago by the fishermen of the village, then 
consisting of eighteen families, but that 
its weight was so great as to render un- 
availing their united efforts to bring it 
ashore. They therefore implored it to 
divide itself in two, promising that they 
would then land it, and worship it as 
their patron deity. After passing all 
night in anxious expectation, they found 
that their petition had been heard ; and 
fishing up the two pieces, they placed 
them in the rock chamber, where the 
split disc has remained enshrined ever 
since. 

Instead of continuing along the 
coast to Motona, 1^ m. from Ka- 
naya, whence the usual ascent of 
Nokogiri-yama is made, the path 
on the N. side may be taken, a 
steep climb of 45 min. through some 
interesting stone quarries. This 
mountain takes its name, which 
means " Saw Mountain," from the 
serrated ridge of peaks that follow 
each other in regular gradation from 
the highest on the E. down to the 
sea-shore. Round the promontory 
thus formed, passes the ordinary 
road to Motona. Scattered over the 
S. side of the mountain are the 
remains of a set of stone images of 
the Five Hundred Bakan, many of 
them now headless or otherwise 
mutilated. Besides these, there 
is a shrine hewn out of the 
living rock, in the centre of which 
is a stone effigy of the person to 
whose initiative the carving of 
the other five hundred images was 
due. The view from the point 
called Mi-harashi, 850 ft. above the 
sea, is lovely. Westward rises 
the perfect form of Fuji above the 
low coast of Sagami, while to the S. 
a succession of bays and promon- 
tories marks the W. coast of Boshu. 
First comes the vill. of Yoshihama, 
bent at an obtuse angle along the 
sea-shore, and beyond it the cape 
under which nestles the little town 
of Kachiyama. To the E. are the 



192 Route 17. — Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu. 



higher peaks of Nokogiri-yama, and 
in front a niass of lesser hills 
intervening between the ridge and 
the valley of the Minato-gawa. 
The lighthouse on Kwannon- saki is 
a prominent landmark bearing N. 
W. by N. 

Motona (Inn, Masu-ya) is almost 
continuous with Hota. The road 
follows the bay in which these 
places lie, and then cutting across a 
tiny peninsula, passes outside 

Kacliiyama {Inn, Nakajin), for- 
merly the castle-town of a small 
Daimyo, where it strikes up into 
the hills. The large pond at the 
head of the valley serves for pur- 
poses of irrigation. The road then 
descends in 5 min. to Ichibu 
{Inn, Hashiba), a clean vill. not 
far from the shore, enclosed in 
pretty hedgerows that remind one 
of England. Behind Ichibu rise 
two conspicuous hills, Nibuyama and 
Tomiyama, the one a grassy sum- 
mit, the other a sharp peak covered 
with trees. Tomiyama possesses a 
temple dedicated to Kwannon. 
Passing through a long tunnel — 
250 yards — we gradually drop to 
Nago {Inn, Yamada-ya) on Tate- 
yama Bay, where a good view may 
be had from a temple dedicated to the 
Thousand-Handed Kwannon, situat- 
ed on a slight eminence at the end of 
the street. Shortly before reaching 
Hojo, it is worth glancing in at the 
Temple of Hachiman, standing in a 
grove 200 yds. to the 1. of the way. 
The porch has some good modern 
carvings, and a coffered ceiling 
containing seventy-two compart- 
ments with a dragon carved in 
relief, the design in each compart- 
ment being different. Within is 
another coffered ceiling, decorat- 
ed with paintings of birds and 
flowers. 

Hojo {Inn, *Kimura-ya, outside 
the town, conveniently situated for 
the steamers; Yoshino-an, in the 
town), though given in the itinerary 
as 13 cho from Tateyama, is practi- 
cally continuous with the latter, the 
two places being separated only 



by a small stream. Travellers are 
recommended to stay at Hojo. 

A pleasant excursion may be 
made from Hojo across the neck of 
the peninsula to the hot-springs of 
Chikura {Inn, Watanabe) on the 
Pacific Coast. The distance is 3 ri 
by a good jinrikisha road. 

Tateyama {Inn, Matsuoka) com- 
mands an incomparable view of 
Fuji across Tokyo Bay. Nowhere 
else does the mountain seem to rise 
to so great a height, completely 
dominating the Oyama and Amagi 
ranges which extend r. and 1., while 
on either hand the shores of the bay 
stretch round to form a fitting frame 
for this lovely picture. A steamer 
leaves Tateyama daily for Tokyo 
at about 10 a.m., calling at several 
places along the coast, and reaches 
Tokyo in 7 hrs. under favourable 
circumstances, Another leaves 
about noon, calling at Uraga. 

5. — Hojo to Kominato. 

Itinerary. 

HOJO to :— Ri. Cho. M. 

Matsuda 3 25 9 

Wada 1 18 3f 

Emi 1 7 3 

Kamogawa 2 31 7 

Amatsu 1 26 4-J 

KOMINATO (Mi- 

nato-mura) .... 3 2f 

Total 12 2 29J 



The distance separating Hojo 
from Matsuda on the Pacific is a 
short cut across the tiny province 
of Awa at its narrowest part, and is 
available for jinrikishas. Prom 

Mats (Hi a (Inn, Abura-ya), the 
road follows the coast. 

Emi (Inn, Hashimoto-ya) is a 
place of some size, standing in what 
for this part of the country appears 
a wide valley, about 1 square mile 
in extent. 

Kamogawa (Inn, Yoshida-ya) 
stands at the mouth of a small 
river, the Kamogawa, whence the 



Kominato. 



193 



road leads through a pine -wood and 
over a sandy shore to Amatsu. A 
steep promontory has to be climb- 
ed before descending again to the 
sea at 

Kominato, also called Minato- 
mura (Inn, Kadokuma). This 
village, though so remote and 
difficult of access — for it is hemmed 
in on all sides between the moun- 
tains and the sea — is famous 
throughout Japan as the birthplace 
of the great Buddhist saint, Nichi- 
ren. 

According to some, the original site of 
the temple founded by Nichiren himself 
on the very spot which gave him birth, is 
now under a stretch of sea called Tai-no- 
ura, said to be the resort of numbers of 
tai fish, which are held sacred by the 
fishermen. Another tradition is, that 
from the day of the saint's birth until he 
was seven days old, two of these fish five 
feet long used daily to appear in the pond 
in his father's garden, whence the spot, 
since covered by the waves, took its 
name of " Tai Bay." In any case, there 
is only just sufficient space between the 
sea and the steep hills behind for the row 
of houses forming the double village of 
Kominato and Uchi-ura. 

The temple raised to the memory 
of Nichiren is called Tanjoji, or 
the Temple of the Birth. On the 
1. after entering the outer gate, is a 
small square building over the well 
which nominally supplied the water 
used to wash the infant saint, — 
nominally only, because the original 
spot was overwhelmed by a tidal 
wave in 1498. We next pass 
through a huge gate, to the 
Main Temple, an unpainted wood- 
en building 72 ft. square inside, 
built in 1846. The porch has some 
excellent carvings of tortoises and 
lions' heads, and the birds in the 
brackets of the transverse beams 
are good. The interior is very 
simple, its only decoration being 
four large panels carved with 
dragons, and a coffered ceiling 
with the Mikado's crest painted 
in each compartment. On the 
altar stands a handsome black and 
gold shrine containing a life-like 
image of the saint, who is repre- 
sented as reading from a richly gilt 



scroll containing a portion of the 
Hoke-kyo. The doors of the shrine 
are kept closed except during service, 
when, they are thrown open in order 
that worshippers may gaze upon 
Nichiren's countenance. 

Two and a half ri from Kominato, 
and 1J ri to the N. of Amatsu, 
stands the vill. of Kiyosumi, cele- 
brated for its temple dedicated to 
Kokuzo Bosatsu. Kiyosumi lies 
about 1,000 ft. above the sea, and 
being free from mosquitoes owing 
to the dryness of the tuff of which 
the hills consist, is much frequented 
during the summer mouths by 
Japanese desiring to escape the 
damp heat of Tokyo. The way 
leads through pine woods, which 
cover the mountains as far as the 
eye can reach. The temple con- 
tains some good carvings of Bud- 
dhist deities. 

6. — Ways Back fbom Kominato. 

Of ways back from Kominato, the 
most picturesque is that via Kiyo- 
sumi and Kururi to Kisarazu (see 
p. 190), whence steamer. Leading 
partly over hills clad with fine forest 
trees and partly through narrow 
ravines, this route yields in beauty 
and variety to no other in the 
peninsula. Guides familiar with 
the landmarks are able to save much 
of the distance by short cuts. The 
best accommodation will be found 
at Kururi, formerly the castle-town 
of a small Daimyo. From here 
Kano-zan can easily be reached. 
Jinrikishas are available between 
Kururi and Kisarazu. The follow- 
ing is the itinerary : — 

KOMINATO to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Kiyosumi 2 16 6 

Kuradama 3 13 8 J 

Hirooka 2 7 5| 

Kururi 1 32 4| 

Mari 2 20 6J 

Yokota 1 8 3 

KISARAZU 2 29 6| 

Total 16 17 40J 



194 



Route 18. — The Shiobara District. 



Those wishing to regain the 
steamer at Tateyama, but not car- 
ing to return from Kominato the 
way they came, may follow the 
coast road right round the peninsula. 
This road diverges from the route 
already given at the village of Ma- 
tsuda. The complete itinerary is 
as follows : — 

KOMINATO to :— Ri. Chd. M. 

Matsuda 8 13 20J 

Shirako 1 5 2f 

Asaina — 33 2J 

Shirahama 2 27 5f 

Mera 1 34 4f- 

Sunosaki 2 27 5| 

TATEYAMA 3 6 7J 

Total 21 1 51£ 



The road is mostly sandy and 
heavy for jinrikishas. The best ac- 
commodation is at Matsuda, the 
hot springs of Chihura near Asaina, 
mentioned on p. 192, and at Shira- 
hama, the latter vill. standing at 
the extreme S. point of the peninsula, 
where a direct road, some 9 ri 
in length, cuts across to Tateyama, 
affording fine views. Here, on the low 
headland of Nojima, stands a fine 
lighthouse, the light of which is 
visible for 20 m. This place enjoys 
a much warmer climate than other 
parts of the province. Luxuriant 
beds of jonquils and other flowers 
abound near the sea-shore, and fill 
the air with their fragrance at 
Christmas-time. Before Mera, a 
choice presents itself of going along 
the beach or of passing over the 
hills by a slightly circuitous 
route. The fishing boats of Mera 
put out in large numbers during the 
season to catch bonitos round Vries 
Island and others of the chain 
extending S. towards Hachijo. The 
scenery from Mera onwards is very 
pretty. 



EOUTE 18. 

The Shiobara District. 

nishi nasuno. furumachi. ascent 
of keicho-zan. nasuno-yama. 

Nishi ^asuno [Inn, Kawashima- 
ya) is reached by the Northern 
Railway from Tokyo in 4 \ hrs. (see 
Route 68). This place is an out- 
come of railway enterprise ; so too 
is the redemption of a large extent 
of the moorland which here stretches 
on all sides, the soil having been 
found well-adapted to fruit cultiva- 
tion. Nishi Nasuno is also the 
nearest station to the favourite hot- 
springs of Shiobara, a place formerly 
out of the beaten track. Railway- 
communication has, however, 
brought it within easy reach of 
Tokyo, and it is now much frequent- 
ed by all classes of Japanese. The 
itinerary of the good jinrikisha road 
from the station is as follows. 

NISHI NASUNO to:— 

Ri. Chd. M. 

Sekiya 3 — 7£ 

Owami 1 18 3j 

Fukuwata 24 If 

Shiogama 13 1 

FURUMACHI.... 8 J 

Total 5 27 14 



As far as Sekiya, at the foot of the 
mountain, the road is perfectly level 
and goes in a straight line across the 
plain, which is covered with dwarf 
chestnut-trees, — a part of the jour- 
ney apt to be very trying in summer, 
owing to the total absence of shade. 
Pheasan t s an d other game are plenti- 
ful in the plain, while in the Shio- 
bara mountains bears are still 
occasionally shot by the peasant 
hunters. After leaving Sekiya, the 
road follows the course of the Hoki- 
gawa as it wends its way through 
deeply wooded ravines to the plain. 
At various points glorious views are 
afforded of the river below, while a 
number of cascades lend variety to 



Fukuwata. Furumachi. Arayu. 



195 



the scene. At the place where the 
valley narrows until it seems little 
more than a gorge, the road be- 
comes highly picturesque. Every 
summer it suffers severely from 
the heavy rains ; but a staff of 
men is generally in readiness to 
effect repairs, so that jinrikishas 
can always pass. The Owami 
springs, with a hut or two, are 
seen from the roadway, at the 
bottom of an almost precipitous 
descent. They are in the bed of 
the river, and are used only by the 
poorest class of visitors. 

Frakuwata (Inn, * Shofuro, and 
others) is, next to Furumachi, the 
most popular bathing resort in the 
Shiobara district, and will pro- 
bably be preferred by foreigners. At 
the entrance to the hamlet of Shio- 
gama, a stone has been erected to 
the memory of the famous courtesan, 
Takao, who was born near this spot 

[Here a bridge crosses the river, 
leading to the hot-springs of 
Shionoyu (Inn, Myoga-ya), 16 
did, situated in the bed of an 
affluent of the Hokigawa. The 
road to these springs is practi- 
cable for jinrikishas, and com- 
modious inns have been built 
on the mountain side close by.] 

Furumachi ( Inns, Fusen - ro, 
Kome-ya, Aizu-ya) lies on the r. 
bank of the river, and is the principal 
vill. in the district. Ifc is shut in 
by mountains, rising in beautifully 
wooded peaks, one above another 
around it. Although situated at 
no great height (1,750 ft.), Furu- 
machi is cooler than many places 
at higher altitudes, and suffers less 
from mosquitoes and other insect 
pests. Visitors would do well to 
take provisions with thern, as the 
local native fare lacks variety. 

The whole Shiobara district is 
dotted with thermal springs. The 
water at Furumachi is moderate 
in temperature and mostly free 
from mineral deposit ; the other 
springs are somewhat saline. A 



favourite midday resort for visitors 
at Furumachi is Sumaki or Taki- 
no-yu (9 cho), in a hollow of the 
hills, with a decent inn. Here the 
water is led in pipes from a spring 
just above the inn, and a hot douche 
can be taken. The temple 
of Myo-onji, a plain thatched 
structure in the vill., is of little 
interest. The only relic in 
the possession of the priests — 
and it is an odd relic in a place of 
worship — is a piece of the wardrobe 
of the frail "beauty above-mentioned. 
A pleasant excursion may be 
made to Arayu, lit. " the Violent 
Spring," 2 ri from Furumachi. The 
path leads directly behind the 
Kome-ya Inn at the head of the 
vill., and over the hills in sharp 
zigzags. The views on the way are 
amongst the finest in this vicinity. 

[Near the top of the pass, on the 
1., is a tarn called Onuma. A 
smaller, called Konuma, situat- 
ed in a deeper hollow, 
is not visible from the 
road. A path follows the 
upper edge of these tarns down 
to the Shionoyu springs, and, 
with pretty glimpses of the 
valleys, also makes a good walk 
from Furumachi.] 

Arayu, a cluster of mediocre inns, 
lies on the side of a hill rendered 
barren by the sulphurous water 
that bubbles forth in several spots, 
and gives the place a very desolate 
aspect. It lies on a mountain road 
to Nikko frequently taken by 
pedestrians, the distances being 
approximately as follows : — 

Arayu to : — Hi. Clio. M. 

Fujiwara 5 — 12J 

Okuwa 3 — 7| 

Imaichi 1 15 3§ 

Total 9 15 23 



Thence train to Nikko in J hr. 
The accommodation en route is 
poor. 



196 



Route 19.— Banded- san. 



Arayu is the best starting-point 
for the ascent of Keicho-zan, 3 J ri, 

one of the peaks of Takahara-yama 
(5,680 ft.), the highest mountain 
of the range separating the pro- 
vince of Shimotsuke from Iwashiro. 
The walk is somewhat rough and 
monotonous for about 1 hr., all 
view being shut out by woods and 
low ridges on both sides until the 
bed of the Akagawa is reached, 
where the ascent of the Takahara- 
toge begins. From the top of the 
pass to the small lake of Benten-ga- 
ike is a distance of 1 ri, and to the 
summit a steep climb of 20 cho 
more. The view from the summit 
is very extensive, embracing Fuji, 
Nantai-zan, Gwassan, Iide-san, 
Bandai-san, and numerous minor 
peaks. The shrine on Keicho-zan 
is dedicated to Saruta-hiko, and the 
usual time of pilgrimage is spring. 
Those wishing to make the ascent 
from Furumachi in one day must 
start early. An alternative is to 
take it on the way to Nikko. 

Nasn no-yam a can be reached in 
one day from Nishi Nasuno. Jin- 
rikishas are taken to the hot-springs 
of Itamura at the foot of the moun- 
tain, where there are several good 
inns. Nasuno-yama has a fortress- 
like aspect when seen from the S. 
Its side is honeycombed with 
hundreds of solfataras. 

Near Itamura is the SessJio-seJci, or 
Death- Stone, famous in a legend which 
has been dramatised as one of the No, or 
Lyric Dramas, of mediaeval Japanese lite- 
rature. The story is that a Buddhist 
priest, Genno by name, who while jour- 
neying across the desolate moor of Nasu, 
pauses to rest beneath this rock. A spirit 
forthwith appears and warns him that, 
by remaining in that place, he is risking 
his life, for that not men only, but even 
birds and beasts perish if they do but 
touch it. The spirit and the chorus then 
recount to him in verse how once upon 
a time there lived a maiden, as learned 
and accomplished as she was surpassing- 
ly beautiful, whom the Emperor Toba-no- 
In took to himself as his favourite con- 
cubine, and for her sake neglected all the 
affairs of state. At last one evening, on 
the occasion of a banquet at the Palace, 
the lights suddenly went out, and from 
the girl's body there darted forth a super- 
natural coruscation that illumined the 



whole scene, while the Mikado himself 
was struck dowu by disease. On the 
representations of the court magician, 
Abe-no- Yasunari, the vile witch — for the 
pretended beauty was evidently nothing 
better than a witch— was driven from the ■ 
Imperial presence, and new away through 
the air to the moor of Nasu, where she 
resumed her original shape, that of a fox. 
In the second act of the play, the spirit 
appearing again, confesses to the good 
priest that itself is none other than the 
wraith of the witch whose story has just 
been told, and relates furthermore how, 
after escaping from the Palace, she was 
hunted by dogs over the moor of Nasu, — 
the origin, as the chorus obligingly stops 
to explain, of the Japanese sport of inu ou 
mono, or " dog-hunting," The priest then 
exorcises the evil spirit by means of 
Buddhistic incantations. But his exor- 
cism seems not to have been permanently 
effectual, if, as is asserted, poisonous ex- 
halations still issue from the Death-Stone 
thrice every day. The stone itself is of 
insignificant size, but is still regarded by 
the peasantry with superstitious dread. 



KOUTE 19. 

Bandai-san. 

Train by the Northern Railway 
from Tokyo (Ueno station) to Moto- 
miya in 8 hrs. Whole trip, 4 days. 

Motomiya. (Inns, Sakai-ya, Mito- 
ya), itself an unattractive town, is 
the best place from which to reach 
the volcano of Bandai-san, noted 
for its terrific eruption on the 
morning of the 15th July, 1888. 
The itinerary to the town of Inawa- 
shiro, situated at the foot of the 
mountain, is as follows : — 

MOTOMIYA to :— Ri. Cho. M. 

Atami 4 — 9| 

Yamagata 2 — 5 

INAWASHIRO .. 4 — 9f 

. Total 10 — 24J 



Leaving Motomiya by jinrikisha 
in the morning, one reaches Ina- 
washiro early in the afternoon. 
The road as far as Atami (fair 
accommodation) is flat and pretty 



Bandai-san. 



197 



good. Here we join the road 
from Koriyama station, which 
is 1 ri longer than that from Moto- 
miya. From Atami to Yamagata, 
a vill. on the shores of Lake Inawa- 
shiro, the road becomes hilly and 
the scenery more varied. A part of 
the way lies by the side of a canal, 
which has been constructed for 
purposes of irrigation. As one ap- 
proaches the cascade formed by the 
water of the canal falling over a 
cliff, it will be found advisable to 
go on foot up the narrow path, 
steep as it is, rather than follow 
the windings of the main road in 
jinrikisha. From 

Yamagata (Inn, Kashima-ya), 
small steamers cross the lake to Tono- 
kuchi, the nearest point to Waka- 
matsu, the capital of the province 
(see Route 21). Lake Inawashiro 
is a large sheet of water measuring 
about 4 ri in every direction, and 
almost surrounded hy a succes- 
sion of thickly wooded hills, above 
which, on the N. shore, rises 
the sharp summit of Bandai-san. 
This lake is not a true crater 
lake, as has been supposed, but is 
probably a depression formed by 
evisceration of the ground, result- 
ing from the copious outpourings of 
volcanic matter in its vicinity. Its 
principal feeder, the river Nagase, 
the upper course of which was 
entirely stopped by the debris swept 
down during the eruption of 1888, 
again became the main source of 
supply after the formation of Lake 
Hibara by the eruption. It is 
plentifully stocked with salmon- 
trout and other fish. The road fol- 
lows the shores of the lake until the 
N. end is reached, whence it leads 
over a wide cultivated area to 

Inawashiro (Inn, Shio-ya), a 
dull country town lying on the 
S. E. base of Bandai-san. From 
here the ascent of the mountain 
and the circuit of the devastated 
district may most conveniently be 
made. 

•Bandai-san (6,000 ft.) is the 
name usually given to a group of 



peaks consisting of O-Bandai, Ko- 
Bandai (destroyed), Kushi-ga-mine, 
and Akahani-yama, surrounding 
an elevated plain called Numa-no- 
taira. This group, standing on 
the N. side of Lake Inawashiro, 
forms a very conspicuous object in 
the landscape. When seen from the 
town of Wakamatsu, on the S. W. 
side, it appears as a single pointed 
peak. O-Bandai, or Great Bandai, 
is the most prominent of the peaks. 
Numa-no-taira is supposed to be 
the remains of the original crater, 
and the peaks mentioned are pro- 
bably parts of the wall that encir- 
cled it. Within it were several 
small lakes or pools, as its name 
implies. It was also covered with 
dense forests, which were destroyed 
in the last eruption. 

"On the morning of July 15th, 1888, the 
weather in the Bandai district was fine, 
there being scarcely a cloud ; and a gentle 
"breeze was blowing from the W.N.W. 
Soon after 7 o'clock, curious rumbling- 
noises were heard, which the people 
thought to be the sound of distant 
thunder. At about half-past 7, there 
occurred a tolerably severe earthquake, 
which lasted more than 20 seconds. This 
was followed soon after by a most violent 
shaking of the ground. At 7.45, while the 
ground was still heaving, the eruption 
of Ko-Bandai-san took place. A dense 
column of steam and dust shot into the 
air, making a tremendous noise. •■ Explo- 
sions followed one after another, in all to 
the number of 15 or 20, the sbeam on each 
occasion except the last being- described 
as having attained a height above the 
peaks about equivalent to that of O-Ban- 
dai as seen from Inawashiro, that is to 
say, some 1,280 metres, or 4,200 ft. The 
last explosion, however, is said to have 
projected its discharge almost horizon- 
tally towards the valley on the N. The 
main eruptions lasted for a minute or 
more, and were accompanied by thunder- 
ing sounds whicb, though rapidly lessen- 
ing in intensity, continued for nearly two 
hours. Meanwhile the dust and steam. 
rapidly ascended, and spread into a great 
cloud like an open umbrella in shape, at 
a height equal to at least three or four 
times that of O-Bandai. At the immediate 
foot of the mountain there was a rain of 
hot scalding ashes, accompanied by pitchy 
darkness. A little later, the darkness was 
still great, and a smart shower of rain 
fell, lasting for about five minutes. The 
rain was quite warm. While darkness 
as aforesaid still shrouded the region, •' a 
mighty avalanche of: earth ; an<l..roek 



198 



Route 20. — Inawashiro to Yonezawa. 



rushed at terrific speed down the mountain 
slopes, buried the Nagase valley with its 
villages and people, and devastated an 
area of more than 70 square kilomteres, 
or 27 square miles." — (Abridged from an 
account published by Professors Sekiya 
and Kikuchi.) 

The total number of lives lost in this 
great cataclysm was 461. Four hamlets 
were completely buried along with their 
inhabitants and cattle, and seven villages 
were partially destroyed. Whole forests 
were levelled by the shock, and rivers 
were blocked up by the ejected mud and 
rocks. 

The ascent to the site of the 
explosion begins by following the 
road to Wakamatsu either in jin- 
rikisha or on foot, for 1 ri. A path 
then turns sharp r. over the grassy 
moor skirting O-Bandai and for a 
considerable distance is a gradual 
climb. When the higher and 
thickly wooded part of the moun- 
tain is reached, the ascent becomes 
much steeper. Looking backwards, 
fine views of the extensive plain 
in which Wakamatsu is situated 
are obtained at various points. A 
walk of about 3J hrs. should bring 
one to the crest of a spur on the W. 
side of the mountain, where the 
scene of destruction bursts upon the 
eye with bewildering suddenness. A 
hut, — the Yamanaka Onsen hut, 
half of which was overwhelmed by 
the eruption, the inmates of the 
eastern room being killed and those 
in the kitchen to the West being 
untouched — stands just under the 
ridge on the further side. Leaving 
the hut on the 1., and following round 
the side of the spur, we reach a hol- 
low from which steam still issues. 
A stiff scramble up the face of 
this spur leads to the brink of the 
main abyss, from which the sight is 
one of the most weird and impres- 
sive to be seen anywhere in the 
world. From the Yamanaka hut it 
is possible to make the circuit of the 
Bandai group. A path passes over 
the sea of mud and rocks in the 
direct line of eruption, till the hill 
shutting out the valley of the 
Nagase-gawa is encountered. Cross- 
ing this and walking over the site 
of the annihilated hamlet of Kawa- 



kami, we next come, 3 m. further 
down the valley, to the hamlet of 
Nagasaka, whose inhabitants, in 
endeavouring to escape to the hills 
opposite, were overwhelmed by the 
sea of mud. At the till, of Mine r 
less than f m. from Inawashiro, a 
deflected portion of the muddy 
stream was arrested, and may be- 
seen piled up several feet thick. 
Great changes have since taken 
place in the appearance of the 
devastated area, through the effects 
of erosion upon the rugged masses 
of rock and mud left by the catas- 
trophe. The dammed-up waters of 
the Nagase-gawa now form a large 
lake, 8 miles long and from 1 m. to 2 
m. broad. 

The circuit of the mountain as 
here described occupies a day, but 
leaves little time for investigation 
of any kind. Local guides are always 
procurable and, it may be added, 
indispensable. Horses may also be 
procured for the greater part of the 
ascent. 



EOUTE 20. 

From Inawashiro to Yonezawa 
vid Bandai-san and the Hiba- 

RA-TOGE. 

Itinerary. 

INAWASHIRO to:— Ri. Clio. M. 
Yamanaka Onsen 

hut 3 — 7£ 

Nagamine 3 — 7| 

Hibara 2 6 5£ 

Top of Pass 2 — 5 

Tsunagi 1 20 3| 

YONEZAWA 4 — 9| 

Total 15 26 38J 

This trip occupies 2 days. 

Jinrikishas can only be taken for 
1£ ri in the Yonezawa plain. From 
Inawashiro to Hibara, luggage must 
be sent round via Shiokawa and 
Oshio,— to Shiokawa 6ri by jinriki- 



Routs 21 — Inawashiro to Nikko. 



199 



sha or packhorse, from Shiokawa to 
Hibara 5J ri by packhorse only, in 
all 11 i ri. 

For the ascent of Bandai-san, see 
previous page. From the Yamanaka 
Onsen hut, it is possible to proceed 
north over the site of the cataclysm 
to Hibara, which lies at the further 
end of the newly formed lake. The 
way leads down for nearly 2 ri 
to the shore of the lake, then 
ascends I. a hill on the top of 
which the devastated district is sud- 
denly abandoned for a grand forest, 
then down, and along the lake, 
with the skeletons of the trees still 
sticking up out of the water, to 
Nagamine, 1 ri more. Here a boat 
can at times be got to Hibara ; 
otherwise 1 ri by the shore, and 1 ri 
6 cho over the Kurobe-tdge to 

Hibara (Inn, Matsumoto), a vill- 
age left half-in half-out of the water 
by the formation of the new lake. 
Across the lake, 15 cho on the 
way up the Hibara-toge, are some 
Silver Refining Works, from which 
it is 1 ri to a tea-house, and 20 cho 
more to the top of the pass through a 
superb forest. Thence 10 cho down 
to a tea-house, and 1 ri 10 cho 
more to 

Tsunagi (Inn, Aizu-ya), a moun- 
tain village. From here the way 
leads over two low passes, from the 
first of which there is a fine view of 
Asahi-dake and Gwassan. 

Yonezawa (see Route 68). 



ROUTE 21. 

From Inawashiro or Wakamatsu 
to Nikko by the Valley of 

THE KlNUGAWA. 

This route, lying amongst some 
of the finest river scenery in 
Eastern Japan, is recommended 
to those who wish to diverge from 
the beaten tracks. A feeling some- 
what unsympathetic towards the 
foreigner may be found to exist in 
the district of Aizu, but this will 



not interfere with his comfort. The 
police readily afford any assistance 
required in procuring accommoda- 
tion, that at Ikari being the best. 
The trip will occupy 3 days from 
Wakamatsu. Jinrikishas can be 
taken as far as the Sanno-ya Inn, 
1J ri beyond Itozawa at the foot of 
the Sanno-toge ; they are not im- 
practicable over the pass, but rid- 
ing or walking is to be preferred. 
The distance from Inawashiro to 
Wakamatsu by the new road via 
Tonokuchi, said to be 8 ri, is pro- 
bably an exaggeration. 

Itinerary. 

WAKAMATSU to :— 

Ri. Cho. M. 

Kami Miyori 2 35 7J 

Top of Funako-toge 1 20 3f 

Onumazaki 1 21 3f 

Yagoshima 2 11 5| 

Tajima 3 16 8£ 

Itozawa 2 21 6J 

Naka Miyori 5 20 13| 

Ikari 2 5 5J 

Takahara 1 26 4J 

Fujiwara 2 3 5 

Takatoku 1 13 3J 

IMAICHI 3 16 8J 

Total 30 27 75 



, The road from Inawashiro along 
the lake affords charming views. 
It passes over a small col before 
descending to 

Tonokuchi, from whence there 
is an excellently graded road into 
Wakamatsu. This makes a short 
day, but enables the following days 
to be better divided by sleeping at 
Tajima and Ikari. 

Wakamatsu (Inns, *Shimizu-ya, 
Minato-ya), formerly the castle- 
town of the Prince of Aizu, is 
situated nearly in the centre of a 
great oval plain of from 10 to 12 ri 
in its longest diameter, constitut- 
ing what is properly called the Aizu 
country. The plain is fertile, culti- 
vated with rice, and watered by 
many streams that descend from 



£00 



Boute 22.— Niigata to Wakamatsu. 



the surrounding mountains and 
unite to form Lake Inawashiro. 

The Aizu clan specially distinguished 
itself fighting on the ShogivrTs side during 
the civil war of 1868, — indeed, their ene- 
mies termed them *' the root of the rebel- 
lion." Though their cause was a losing 
one, their gallantry is none the less re- 
membered. Even lads of fourteen and 
fifteen years followed their fathers to the 
field. 



The Daimyo's castle — the last to 
stand out for the vanquished Sho- 
gun — stood on a hill, a short 
, distance from the town ; but it 
has been razed to the ground. 
With the exception of some fine old 
trees, dilapidated gateways, and ru- 
ins of moats, nothing remains to 
attest the former glory of the place. 
Wakamatsu is a convenient point 
from which to make the ascent of 
Bandai-san, described in Route 19. 
A pleasant walk can be taken to 
Higashi Oyama (Inn, Shin-taki), a 
village of tea-houses 1 ri to the 
8. E. of the town, situated in a 
deep ravine through which flows a 
stream of considerable volume, and 
much frequented on account of its 
hot springs. The waters, which 
gush out of the rocks on the r. 
bank of the stream, have neither 
taste nor smell. Their temperature 
varies from 122° to 131° F. 

After traversing a southern ex- 
tension of the plain, the Funako-toge 
is encountered, for which two men 
are indispensable to each jinrikisha. 
On the other side, the road skirts the 
Tsuruma-gawa, which at intervals 
cuts its way through a small gully, 
while the hills have been tunnelled 
in several places. 

Taj i ma (Inn, Wakamatsu-ya) is 
prettily situated in a plain protected 
by hills on. all sides. The chief 
productions of the neighbourhood 
are hemp and ginseng. The Sanno- 
toge is of inconsiderable height. 
The descent on the Shimotsuke 
side leads into the valley of the 
Kinugawa, along which, between 
the villages of 

Ik an and Fujiwara, lies the 
^prettiest part of the route — de- 



lightful river scenery as far as 
Takahara. The road descends a 
ravine, and in man}' parts actually 
overhangs the river, resting on logs 
which project from the rock and 
are supported by uprights. The 
hot-springs opposite Takahara, of 
which the villagers speak, scarcely 
deserve a visit. From Fujiwara the 
country becomes more open, and at 
Takatoku the mountains are left 
behind. The road hence leads over 
high cultivated upland to Imaichi, 
a station on the Utsunomiya-Nik- 
ko Railway (see p. 161). 



ROUTE 22. 

From Niigata to Wakamatsu. 

Itinerary. 

NIIGATA to :— Ri. Cho. M. 

Kameda 3 13 8J 

Yasuda 5 28 14 

Komatsu 3 11 8 

Iway a (Mikawa) . . 2 4 5f 

Tsugawa 2 18 6 

Torii 3 6 7f 

Nozawa 4 10 10J 

Bange 4 34 12 

WAKAMATSU ..3 7 7| 

Total 32 23 79J 



For Niigata, see Rte. 25. 
This trip, practicable for jinriki- 
shas, though over rough and moun- 
tainous country, may be made in 2 \ 
days. One ri is saved by taking 
boat on the Shinano-gawa from 
Niigata to Kameda. The first 
night's halt should be made at 
Komatsu (Inn, Komatsu-ya). 

[At Tsugawa, the Agano-gawa is 
often resorted to by those tak- 
ing this route in the inverse 
direction. Niigata can thus be 
reached in one day from Tsu- 



Route 23. — NHgatu to Ikao. 



201 



gawa ; but if the current is slack, 
a halt must be made somewhere 
for the night. The boats are 
about 45 ft. long by 6 ft. broad, 
and are propelled by one man 
sculling at the stern, and an- 
other pulling a short-bladed 
oar worked in a loop of wistaria 
at the bow. For about 12 ra- 
the river, hemmed in by lofty 
cliffs, studded with rocks visible 
and sunken, making several 
abrupt turns, and shallowing in 
many places, hurries the boat 
swiftly along. The rapids, how- 
ever, are on a small scale and 
anything but formidable.] 

That part of the route lying be- 
tween Iwaya and Nozawa will be 
found the stiffest, but the most 
picturesque. The road passes along 
the side of a ridge above the rapid 
Agano-gawa, with fine grey cliffs on 
its further side, and commands 
excellent views of the abrupt pre- 
cipices of lide-s.an and Myojin- 
take on the S.W. There is fair 
accommodation at 

Nozawa (Inn, Hotei-ya). Leaving 

Bange (several inns), the road 
enters the cultivated plain in which 
lies 

Wakamatsu (see p. 199). 



ROUTE 23. 

From Niigata to Ikao by the 

MlKUNI-TOGE. 

The first 17 ri, a day's journey, is 
by steamer up the Shinano-gawa to 
Nagraoka (Inn, Tsuruga-ya), a large 
town, whence 3 ri by jinrikisha to 
Myokeil, beyond which mostly on 
foot or pack-horse. It is a pity that 
the first part of this route should be 
flat and uninteresting, seeing how 
beautiful is all the rest from Seki 
onwards, where the pass is ap- 
proached. 



Itinerary. 

MYOKEN to :— Ri. Cho. Jf. 

Kawaguchi 3 14 8 J 

Urasa 4 18 11 

Muikamachi 3 14 8J 

Shiozawa 31 2 

Seki 1 32 4£ 

Yuzawa 1 17 3J 

Mitsumata 2 5 5 \ 

Futai .. .. 2 18 6 

Asakai 2 5 5J 

Nagai 3 14 8£ 

Saru-ga-kyo .... 22 1 j- 

Fuse 1 31 4| 

Nakayama 2 31 7 

IKAO 5 — 12£ 

Total 36 — 87| 



Some of these distances are ap- 
proximate only. 

Urasa has a good inn called Cho- 
jija, and the vill. of Shiozawa also 
affords fair accommodation. From 
Seki, the road crosses a cliff over- 
hanging the stream, and quits the 
dull valley hitherto followed for very 
pretty country. There are but in- 
different inns at Yuzawa, where 
the ascent of the Mikuni Pass begins. 
Properly speaking, four passes are 
included under this general name, 
the first being the Shibahara-toge, 
2,135 ft. above the sea. Descending to 
the bank of the Kiyotsu-gawa, we ar- 
rive at the vilL of Mitsumata (several 
inns), and mount again to reach the 
top of the Nakano-tdge, 2,800 ft., 
amidst lovely views of river, forest, 
and mountain. We now go down 
150 ft. and up to a height of 3,200 
ft., whence far below is descried the 
vill. of Futai (Inns, Tsu-un Kwaisha, 
and others). Ascending easily from. 
Futai, a short descent leads to 
Asakai (several inns), which stands 
at a height of 2,820 ft. in the midst 
of gentle slopes crowned by densely 
wooded summits. 

Here comes the ascent of the 
Mikuni Pass properly so called, 4,100 
ft. above the sea, whence are seen 
Akagi-san, Futago-yama, and Kwan- 
non-dake to the S., and on the N. the 



202 Route 24. — From Koriyama to Taira and Mito. 



long ridge of Naeba-san. Nagai 
stands in a picturesque gorge. A spur 
of the hills is crossed on the way to 
Sarn-ga-kyo, where there are hot- 
springs and good accommodation, 
such as cannot be found at Fuse. 
The scenery beyond this latter 
place is magnificent, the way lead- 
ing through a precipitous gorge to 
the top of the Kirigakubo-toge, 
2,700 ft., at whose far side nestles 
the hamlet of Nakayama. The 
path now rises by a gentle gradient 
over the moorland stretching be- 
tween Komochi-zan 1., and Onoko- 
yama r., to the Nakayajna-toge, 
2,170 ft., and comes in full view of 
the Haruna mountains, with Ikao 
perched far up above the valley, on 
the flank of Kwannon-dake. 

The regular path descends 1. 
through Yokobori and Shibukawa 
towards Maebashi, while our track 
diverges r., crossing the Azuma-gawa 
by ferry and ascending over open 
country to Ikao. 



ROUTE 24. 

From Koriyama through the Pro- 
vince op Iwaki to Taira and 
Mito. 

Though the province of Iwaki is 
not generally considered attractive, 
the following itinerary is given for 
the benefit of such as may desire to 
traverse it. 



Starting from Koriyama, 7 hrs. 
from Tokyo on the Northern Rail- 
way, the road leads through Miharu 
to Taira on the Pacific Coast, and 
then diverges S. to Mito in the 
province of Hitachi, 5 hrs. from 
Tokyo by rail. Time, 4 or 5 days. 

Inn at Miharu, Omi-ya. 
,, ,, Ono-niimachi, Kiku-ya. 
„ ,, Taira, Sumiyoshi. 
„ „ Kamioka, Tokai-ro. 
„ „ Sukegawa, Ebi-ya. 

Itinerary. 

KORIYAMA to:— Bi.Cho. M. 

MIHARU 3 11 8 

Kadosawa 3 10 8 

Ono-niimachi.... 3 15 8£ 

Kawamai 4 8 10J 

Uwadaira 4 3 10 

TAIRA 2 14 5| 

Yumoto 1 30 4 J 

Tanabe 1 33 4| 

Sekida 2 33 7 

Kamioka 1 31 4| 

Takahagi 3 22 8| 

Sukegawa 4 5 10 

Onuma 2 1 5 

Ishigami-Sotojuku 2 2 5 

Tabiko 2 15 6 

MITO 2 31 7 

Total 46 11 113 



Horse tram-cars run between Kori- 
yama and Miharu, whence onwards 
the road is practicable for jinrikishas 
throughout, though mostly heavy 
travelling. 



B£i17»Ai JAPAfl 




r >•..-.• ^' Ctr^r v^ 




< 






SECTION II. 



CENTRAL JAPAN. 



(Routes 25 — 33. 




Route 25.—TheKamizaiva-Naoetsu Railway. 



20S 



ROUTE 25. 

The Karuizawa-Naoetsu Bail- 
way AND NlIGATA. 

UEDA TO MATSUMOTO AND SHIMA- 
SHIMA. TEMPLE OF ZENKOJI. EX- 
CURSIONS FROM NAGANO. LAKE 
NOJIRI AND ASCENT OF MYOKO- 
ZAN. LAND AND SEA WAYS FROM 
NAOETSU TO NIIGATA. THE ISLAND 
OF SADO. 



in 

S °3 


Names 

of 
Stations. 


Remarks. 


8 m. 
13t 
19| 

24| 

31f 

37| 
40| 
46 

52| 

57| 
64 

69* 

73f 
811 
87f 
92 


KARUIZAWA. 

Miyoda. 
Komoro. 
Tanaka. 

UEDA 


(Tokyo to Ka- 

< ruizawa (see 
(. p. 148). 

Branch roads 
( to the Naka- 

< sendo and 
( to Matsu- 

moto. 

/ Road to Kusa- 

< tsu over the 
( Shibu-toge. 

j Alight for 
\ Lake Nojiri. 
(Alight for as- 
j cent of Myo- 
( ko-zan. 


Sakaki. 
Yashiro. 
Shinonoe. 
NAGANO. 

Toyono 


Mure. 
Kashiwabara .. 

Taguchi 


Sekiyama. 
Arai. 
Takata. 
NAOETSU. 



This line, starting from an ele- 
vation of 3,080 ft. at Karuizawa, 
descends to the sea-coast at Nao- 
etsu, and is on the whole the 
most picturesque railway route in 
Japan. The first five or six miles 
are over a fairly level plain ; 
But the conditions are changed 
when the southern slope of Asama- 
yama has to be rounded. Here lies 
a water-shed whence flow large 
rivers north and south, towards the 



Sea of Japan and the Pacific re- 
spectively. All the drainage of the 
great volcano pours down through 
deep gullies into the channel of 
one or other of these rivers. The 
soil, a loosely packed volcanic ash 
and gravel of light colour, is easily 
scooped away, and large chasms 
are left whose sides the highway 
descends and ascends in zigzags. 
Throughout most of this section, 
the traveller looks down from a 
giddy height on rice-fields far be- 
low. From a point near Oiwake, 
where the Nakasendo is left be- 
hind, onto Komoro opportunities are 
afforded of seeing to advantage the 
Iwamurata plain backed by the 
imposing range of Yatsu-ga-take. 
Asama-yama has a less smiling 
aspect on this side ; the flat top of 
the cone lengthens out, the pinky 
brown colour of the sides assumes 
a blackish hue, and chasms rough 
with indurated lava break the 
regularity of the slopes. Before 
Komoro is reached, a long volcanic 
ridge, dominating the valley of 
the river Chikuma as far as Ueda, 
reveals the fact that Asama is not 
an isolated cone, but the last and 
highest of a range of mountains. 
A former crater, which has dis- 
charged itself into this valley and 
is now extinct, displays a row of 
black jagged rocks in the hollow 
between Asama and the next peak 
of the range, a striking feature as 
seen from Komoro. 

Komoro (Inn, Tsuru-ya; Tea-house 
in public garden with good view) is a 
busy commercial centre. Formerly 
the seat of a Daimyo, it has turned 
its picturesque castle-grounds over- 
hanging the river, into a public 
garden. Saddlery, vehicles, and 
tools for the surrounding district are 
manufactured here. 

About 1 hr. walk from the station 
is the monastery of Shakusonji, com- 
monly known as Nunobiki no Kiuan- 
non, which lies perched on the side of 
one of the high bluffs that overlook 
the Chikuma -gawa. It is a very 
romantic spot, approached by a- 



206 



Route 25.— The Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway. 



narrow gorge leading from the 
river bank. The monks have tun- 
nelled through the rocks in several 
places, making passages which lead 
to the various shrines and form a 
continuous corkscrew path round 
the perpendicular cliff. The white- 
painted hut close by the bell-tower 
on the summit commands a superb 
view of the Asama range and the 
valley of the Chikuma-gawa. The 
monastery belongs to the Tendai sect 
of Buddhists. 

From Komoro to Ueda the rail- 
way runs down the valley of the 
Chikuma-gawa, whose S. bank is 
here formed by a series of bold bluffs, 
in many places descending sheer into 
the water. The massive Shinshu- 
Hida range is now also in sight, its 
mountains, even in the height of 
summer, being streaked with snow. 
A few miles before Ueda, the valley 
opens out into a circular plain of 
which that town is the centre. 

Ueda (Inns, Kame-ya, Uemura- 
ya) possesses few attractions. 
White and other silks of a durable 
nature, but wanting in gloss and 
finish, are the principal products of 
the district. It is specially noted 
for a stout striped silk fabric called 
Ueda-jima. 

[The Nakasendo may be joined at 
Nagakubo by a jinrikisha road 
from Ueda, distance 11J ri. 

A carriage road also turns off 
about the middle of the town 
to Matsumoto, whence a jin- 
rikisha road leads to Shima- 
shima at the foot of the Hida 
range of mountains. 

Itinerary. 

UEDA to:— Ri. Clio. M. 

Matsumoto 11 25 28& 

Enojima 3 — 7J 

SHIMASHIMA.. 2—5 



Total 16 25 40f 



The time taken by coach to 
Matsumoto is from 8 to 10 hrs. 
The vehicle starts early in the 



morning. At the top of the 
hill just before descending into 
the town, one of the finest 
mountain views in Japan is 
obtained. The whole Hida 
range spreads out before the 
spectator, Yari-ga-take being 
specially conspicuous with its 
spear-shaped peak that resem- 
bles the Matterhorn. In the 
foreground are well - wooded 
hills, and in the distance the 
river winds like a silver thread. 

Matsumoto {Inns, *Shinano- 
ya, Kome-ya) is one of the most 
important towns in Shinshu, 
being the centre of commerce 
between the S. part of this 
province and the province of 
Echigo. Some of the best silk 
in Japan is produced here. The 
other principal manufactures 
are a kind of cotton cloth called 
shibori, candied fruit, and 
baskets and boxes of bamboo 
work. Matsumoto became a 
castle-town early in the 16th 
century, and was the seat of 
a Daimyo called Matsudaira 
Tamba-no-Kami. The greater 
part of the castle is still pre- 
served. It is only 5 min. from 
the inns, and should be visited, 
if only for the sake of the view 
to be obtained from the top 
storey. The chief sights of 
Matsumoto are the Shinto 
temple of Hachiman and the 
Buddhist temple of Shogyoji. 
Thirty chb from Matsumoto, 
at the villi, of Asama (Inns, 
*Ume-no-yu, Inokuchi ), are 
some excellent hot baths much 
frequented by the people of the 
whole province. 

A carriage road connects 
Matsumoto with Seba on the 
Nakasendo, 4 ri 17 cho (12 m.). 

Sliimasllima is divided by 
the Azusa-gawa into two parts, 
of which the western is Shima- 
shima proper, and the eastern 
Hashiba (Inn, *Shimizu-ya). 
The view from the inn is highly 
picturesque. This is the best 



Veda. Nagano and Temple of Zenkoji. 



207 



place from which to ascend 
Yari-ga-take (see Koute 30, 
Section 4.] 

The old castle of Ueda, of which 
one watch-tower still remains in- 
tact, stands on the river bank be- 
yond the town, and forms a striking 
feature in the landscape as the 
train leaves the station. The exit 
from the amphitheatre of hills en- 
closing Ueda is narrow and hidden 
from view. Just before the line 
turns into it, a curious bluff with a 
cave in its face is noticeable on the 
other side of the river. 

Before reaching Yashiro, there is 
on the other side of the river a hill 
with the curious name of Oba-sute- 
yama, that is, " the Hill where the 
Aunt was Abandoned." 

It is explained by a legend which tells us 
that the abandoned one was Oyama-bime, 
aunt to Ko-no-hana-saku-ya-Hime, the 
lovely goddess of Fuji, who married Ni- 
nigi-no-Mikoto, the first ancestor of the 
Imperial family of Japan. This Oyama- 
bime was so ugly, ill-tempered, envious, 
and malicious that none of the gods 
would take her in marriage. Her nephew 
and niece, in despair that her evil disposi- 
tion should thus stand in the way of her 
happiness, entreated her to reform, but 
in vain. At last the younger goddess 
suggested that a tour through the beauti- 
ful scenery of Shinano, when she might 
contemplate the moon from some lofty 
mountain-top, would be likely to have a 
softening effect. So they set out together, 
and after surmounting innumerable 
peaks, at length reached this place. Ko- 
no-hana-Hime mounted a stone, and 
pointing with her finger, said to her 
aunt, " Yonder is a rock. Climb up it and 
look calmly round, and your heart will be 
purified." The aunt, tired with her long 
journey, melted under the gentle influ- 
ences of the harvest moon. Turning to 
her niece, she said, " I will dwell forever 
on this hill- top, and join with the God of 
Suwa in watching over the land." And 
with these words, she vanished in the 
moonbeams. — This legend, though told of 
Shinto divinities, is probably of Buddhist 
origin. 

At Yashiro a road branches off 
to the important town of Matsushiro, 
and down the r. bank of the Chiku- 
ma-gawa to Niigata. Before reach- 
ing Nagano, both the Chikuma- 
gawa and the Saigawa are crossed. 
The head-waters of the latter are 



near Lake Suwa. It flows past 
Matsumoto, joining the Chikuma- 
gawa a short distance to the S.E. of 
Nagano, and forming with this 
large stream the great Shinano- 
gawa which enters the sea at Nii- 
gata. One of the spans in the 
Saigawa viaduct is 200 ft. long. 

Nagano or Zenkoji (Inns, *Seiyo- 
ken, Fuji-ya, both semi-foreign; 
Ogi-ya) is the capital of the pre- 
fecture of Nagano, which comprises 
the whole province of Shinshu. It 
is beautifully situated at the foot of 
lofty mountains, which form an 
imposing background and almost 
surround it. A considerable trade 
is done in woven goods and agri- 
cultural implements. Numerous 
fine buildings in foreign style and 
crowds of pilgrims thronging the 
streets, give the town an air of 
exceptional prosperity. The Japa- 
nese Club called Tosan-kwan, which 
has a room of 144 mats, commands 
a fine prospect. The Buddhist Tem- 
ple of Zenkoji is one of the most 
celebrated in the whole Empire. It 
is dedicated to Amida and his two 
followers, Kwannon and Daiseishi, 
a group of whose images is here 
enshrined. 

This sacred group is said to have been 
made by Shaka Muni himself out of gold 
found on Mount Shumi, the centre of the 
Universe. After various vicissitudes in 
China and Korea, it was brought to Japan 
in A.D. 552, as a present from the King of 
Korea to the Mikado on the first intro- 
duction of Buddhism into Japan. All the 
effort of the Japanese enemies of Bud- 
dhism to make away with the image were 
in vain. Thrown into rivers, hacked at, 
burnt, it survived all and finally found a 
resting-place at Zenkoji in A.D. 602. 

The building 1. of the entrance 
is the residence of an abbess of 
high rank and a sisterhood of nuns. 
Rows of shops for the sale of 
rosaries and pictures of the sacred 
triad line the court. Behind the 
shops are the houses of the priests, 
each in its own neatly arranged 
garden. At the end of this court 
is the chief gateway, with images 
of Monju and the Shi Tenno, which 
are exhibited only on New Year's 



208 



Route 25. — The Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway. 



day. The Main Temple, erected 
in 1701, is a two-storied buildiDg 
198 ft. in depth by 108 ft. in 
width, with a huge three-gabled 
roof, so that the ridge is T-shaped. 
This form is called shumoku-zukuri, 
from its resemblance to the shumoku, 
a wooden hammer with which the 
Buddhists strike the small bell used 
by them in their religious services. 
The roof is supported by 136 pillars, 
and there are said to be 69,384 
rafters, the same number as that of 
the written characters contained in 
the Chinese version of the Buddhist 
scriptures. At the entrance two 
beautiful new marble lamps, about 
6 ft. high, deserve inspection. The 
sacred golden group, standing in 
a chapel on the W. side, is kept 
in a shrine dating from A.D. 1369, 
shrouded by a gorgeous brocade 
curtain. For a small fee, the cur- 
tain is raised so as to show the outer- 
most of the seven boxes in which 
the image is enclosed. A space of 
88 mats (about 1,600 sq. ft.) is set 
apart for the worshippers. On the 
ES. side of the main hall is an en- 
trance to a dark gallery which runs 
round below the floor of the chancel 
(naijin), issuing again by the same 
door. To complete this circuit 
(kaidan-mawari) thrice is con- 
sidered highly meritorious. More 
than 200 bronze and stone lanterns 
crowd the space in front of the main 
hall. 

The principal festivals are the 
Dai Nembutsiiy or Great Invocation 
of Buddha, held on the 31st July, 
those held at the vernal and au- 
tumnal equinoxes, and one on the 
14th March, in commemoration of 
the terrible earthquake which shook 
this region in 1847. 

On the r. of the temple enclosure 
is the Public Garden, which com- 
mands a good view of the valley. 

Excursions from Nagano. 

1. Burando Yakuslii, 1 ri N.E. 

of the town, a shrine dedicated to 
the Buddhist god of medicine, is 
perched high above the path in a 



large tree growing out of the rock. 
Close by are some petroleum springs. 

2. TogakusM-san and Ken-iio- 

liiine. Five ri from Nagano is the 
temple of Togakushi-san, whither 
the god Tajikara-o-no-Mikoto is said 
to have hurled the rocky door of the 
cavern in which the Sun-Goddess 
had hidden herself from her sub- 
jects in heaven and earth. The 
road, which is passable for jinriki- 
shas drawn by two men, leaves the 
town on the 1. side of the temple, 
and ascends a narrow ravine to the 
hamlet of Arayasu, whence, winding 
over low hills, it issues on to a moor 
which encircles the base of Izuna- 
san. A torii is reached at the 
highest point of the moor. The path 
then descends for over a mile to a 
point where it divides, the r. branch 
proceeding direct to the Chu-in, 
the 1. reaching the Hoko-in after 12 
cho more. The latter temple, 
situated at the top of a long flight of 
steps lined with old cryptomerias, 
is a large building decorated with, 
wood-carvings of considerable merit. 
From this point to the Chu-in is a 
walk of 12 cho through the wood. 
Those who intend to climb Ken-no- 
mine, the highest point of the moun- 
tain behind Togakushi, will do best 
to pass the night here. The road 
to the Oku-no-in (30 cho) is pretty 
level the whole way, except during 
the last few hundred yards. The 
priests' house commands a fine view, 
including the summits of Fuji and. 
Asama. Half-way between the 
bridge and the red gate-way on the 
road to the Oku-no-in, a path 
branches off r. under a wooden torii 
to Ken-no-mine. A walk of about 
3 ri leads to the summit, below 
which is a hut where pilgrims pass 
the night, in order to witness sunrise 
from the peak, whence Amida is 
supposed to be visible riding on 
a cloud of many colours. 

3. Izuna-saH, or Iizuna-san, as 
the name is also pronounced, may 
be ascended either from Arayasu or 
from the Chu-in ; but the latter is 
preferable, as the climb from Ara- 



Lake Nojiri. Akakura. 



209 



yasu is steep. From the Chu-in, 
the summit is easily gained in 1J 
hr. walking up a long spur. The 
view is very extensive in every 
direction. The traveller may either 
return to Arayasu, or strike 
away to the 1. by a_ path leading 
over by the moor to Ofuruma on a 
cross country road called the Hok- 
koku Kaido, and close to Kashiwa- 
bara station, — a 3 hrs. walk. 

The railway from Nagano con- 
tinues along the plain as far as 

Toyono. Here it enters a narrow 
valley, which it follows up until 
Xashiwabara is reached at a height 
of 2,200 ft. At Toyono a road leads 
over the Shibu-toge to Kusatsu (see 
p. 158.) A fine view is obtained of 
Izuna-san on the 1. as 

Kashiwiibara is approached. This 
section of the line traverses a re- 
gion where the snowfall is peculiar- 
ly heavy, drifts occasionally ac- 
cumulating to a depth of over 10 
ft. and stopping all traffic for 
weeks at a time. 

[The traveller with time to spare 
should alight here to visit the 
beautiful little lake called No- 
jiri-ko, 2-J rn. distant. As the 
accommodation at the vill. of 
Nojiri is very poor, it will be 
well to arrange one's plans so 
as to catch a train at Tagitchi, 
the next station, or to proceed 
to the hamlet of Akakura, 
situated on the side of Myoko- 
zan and noted for its hot 
spriugs. Akakura is also the 
point from which the ascent of 
Myoko-zan is most easily made. 
The walk from Kashiwabara is 
through a pleasant oak wood, 
whence the road descends slight- 
ly to ^ 

Nojiri (Inn, Katsura-ya), pic- 
turesquely situated on the 
shores of the lake, which is sur- 
rouuded by low hills covered 
with thickets. On a densely 
wooded islet, is a temple called 
Uga-no-Jinja. In front of the 



temple stand two magnificent 
cedars, one of which measures 
27 ft. in circumference. The 
view of the giant masses of 
Izuna, Kurohime, and Myoko- 
zan, as seen from the island, 
is exceptionally fine. Good 
bathing may be had in the 
lake, and the roads in the 
neighbourhood are all that 
could be desired. The lake 
sometimes freezes over at the 
end of January, when the ice 
becomes passable for men and 
horses. Its waters find an out- 
let into the Sekigawa, which, 
flowing from sources on Toga- 
kushi-san and Yakeyama, falls 
into the sea at Naoetsu. 

From Nojiri to Akakura is a 
walk of 2 hrs. But jinrikishas 
may be taken to the vill. of 
Tagiri on the main road, 
whence, turning sharp 1. over 
the lower grassy slopes of Myo- 
ko-zan, it leads after 23 cho 
to the baths. Leaving Nojiri, 
the road descends to the small 
town of Sekigawa, named after 
the river and situated at the 
junction of two picturesque 
wooded glens, where the torrent 
rushes under the branches of 
trees overhanging it on either 
side. This river — the Sekigawa 
— here forms the boundary be- 
tween the provinces of Echigo 
and Shinshu. A short distance 
beyond the town of the same 
name a road brandies off r. to 
Taguchi station, the nearest 
point on the line of railway 
for Akakura. 

Akakura, is a favourite resort 
of the inhabitants of Takata 
and other places on the plain 
during a part of August and 
September. It possesses an ex- 
cellent Inn, the Kogaku-ro, 
boasting a gigantic bath, which 
is supplied with hot water 
brought in pipes from sources 
2 ri further up the mountain. 
This inn is closed during the 



210 



Route 25. — The Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway. 



winter months. The other inns 
are of an inferior description. 
From the hamlet nothing 
obstructs the glorious prospect 
of the rich plain extending 
down to Naoetsu on the Sea of 
Japan, and of the island of Sado 
on the dim horizou. About 
3 ri off, between Kurohime and 
Myoko-zan, is a large waterfall 
called Nae no taki. As already 
indicated, Akakura is the most 
convenient point from which to 
make the ascent of 

Myoko-zan (8,180 ft.). This 
mountain is not free from snow 
until July. Instead of ascend- 
ing by the pilgrim's path, 
which is extremely steep and 
overgrown with tall bamboo 
grass, the path to the solfatara 
under Akakura-yama should be 
taken. This also lies through 
the same sort of cane-brake, 
but has the advantage of rising 
very gently and of being shorter 
than the other. From the 
solfatara, where two very hot 
springs gush forth, a gully 
has to be / ascended, and the 
main path is entered at a 
point where it is no longer 
difficult or steep. Iron chains 
have been fixed in order to en- 
able the mountaineer to pass 
along the narrow ledges — no 
more than 2 inches wide — 
which at one point serve as a 
path. The track, which ascends 
the crumbling rock of the sum- 
mit by natural steps, is perfectly 
safe, though somewhat steep. 
Myoko-zan forms part of an ex- 
tinct volcano. The mountains 
immediately surroundiug it are 
the long semi-circnlar ridge 
called Myoko-zan-no-Urayama, 
or the " Hind-part of Myoko- 
zan," on the S.E., and Kana- 
yama on the N. Other solfa- 
taras, besides that mentioned, 
occur on the mountain. Water 
is found at the very sum- 
mit, on which stands a small 
wooden shrine dedicated to 



Amida. The view to the S.E. in- 
cludes Asama and Fuji. Direct- 
ly S. rises Kurohime with its two 
peaks, between which is seen 
the top of Izuna-san. Ken-no- 
mine bears about S.S.W., while 
the round -topped mountain 
bearing W.N.W. is Yakeyama, 
an extinct volcano. To the 
N.E. the view extends over the 
plain of Echigo to the Sea of Ja- 
pan and the Island of Sado. Not 
less than 7 Iil-s. should be allow- 
ed for the ascent and descent. 
The mountain is much frequent- 
ed by pilgrims, especially on the 
23rd night of the 6th moon, old 
calendar, when they ascend in 
great numbers by torchlight, 
but do not pass through Aka- 
kura. — From Akakura a path 
descends via Futamata, (26 chb) 
to Sekiyama, 1 \ ri. The path 
to Taguchi station is shorter, 
but the difference has to be 
made up by rail.] 

There is a falling gradient of 
about 600 ft. in the 4J m. traversed 
between Taguchi and 

Sekiyama (Inn, Ogi-ya). The as- 
cent of Myoko-zan may also be 
made from here, but it involves a 
longer walk over the moor than 
from Akakura. The gradient is still 
heavy until Arai is reached, where 
the country becomes flatter. 

Arai (good accommodation) is a 
flourishing town noted for tobac- 
co, pueraria starch (kuzu), and pe- 
troleum, the springs being in the 
immediate neighbourhood. Here is 
first seen the custom peculiar to 
most of the towns in Echigo, of 
covered ways along the house-fronts, 
used when the snow lies deep in the 
streets. 

Takata (Inn, Koyo-kwan) is a 
large place, formerly the castle- 
town of a Daimyo named Sakaki- 
bara, one of the four families who 
enjoyed the privilege of providing 
a regent during the minority of a 
Shogun. The town is traversed by 
a long street, which bends repeated- 



Naoetsu to Niiyata. 



211 



ly at right angles. Cotton-weaving 
is extensively carried on. The Hok- 
koku Kaido branches off 1. near here 
to the provinces of Kaga, Echizen, 
etc. (see Route 33). 

Naoetsu (Inns, Matsuba-kwan, 
Furukawa-ya), situated at the 
mouth of the Sekigawa, is a port 
of call for steamers to Niigata, 
Eushiki, and other places on the 
West Coast. It is also at present 
the terminus of the railway which, 
however, the authorities intend 
to carry on to Niigata, about 
74 m. distant. This line, opening 
up one of the richest provinces of 
the Empire, is no less important for 
strategical reasons. It will practi- 
cally bring Niigata within one day 
of the capital. Tunnels are to be 
<cut at several places on the coast 
between Hassaki and Kashiwazaki. 
Naoetsu produces a jelly called aiva- 
ame, made from millet, and appre- 
ciated by both Japanese and Euro- 
peans. 

About 1 ri to the S. of Naoetsu 
lies the vill. of Gochi(Inn, Shimizu- 
ya), a favourite resort during the 
hot weather, where several good 
tea-houses have been built on 
cliffs overlooking the sea. Excel- 
lent bathing may be had on the 
long stretch of sandy beach imme- 
diately below. 

The traveller wishing to reach 
Niigata has a variety of routes to 
choose from. The easiest way is 
to go direct by steamer which leaves 
Naoetsu daily, from April to Novem- 
ber, calling at Kashiwazaki, Izumo- 
saki, and Teradomari. The whole 
distance by sea is 34 ri, and is 
accomplished in 9 hrs. The distance 
by land is a trifle less, leading for 
the greater part along either the 
sandy beach or a ridge of sand- 
hills. The whole of this coast as 
far as Teradomari (Inn, Oshiki-ya) 
is inhabited by a population of 
hardy fishermen ; and the sea yields 
sea-bream (tai), plaice (karei), and 
a kind of brill (hirame), in large 
quantities and of great size. The 



fish caught here are considered 
much superior in flavour to those 
taken off the coast of Etchu further 
West. The women are sturdy and 
capable of the hardest toil. They 
usually perform the labour of porters, 
and even drag carts. Muslin made 
of hemp, and called Echigo chijimi, 
is woven in the neighbouring vil- 
lages, and generally dyed indigo 
colour with a faint pattern in white. 
The Japanese esteem it highly as 
material for summer clothing. 

The journey may also be divided 
between the sea, the road, and the 
river, by leaving the steamer at 
Kashiwazaki (Inn, Tenkyo), 11 ri 
from Naoetsu, where a road 
branches off to Nagaoka (Inn, Tsu- 
ruga-ya), 7 ri, from which town, 
and calling at Sanjo (Inn, Chochin- 
ya) and other minor places, the 
river steamers take 5 or 6 hrs. to 
Niigata. The scenery is uninterest- 
ing. 

Or continuing the sea route to 
IzumosaJci (Inn, Kakinoki-ya), a 
shorter land journey may be made 
to Yoita (Inn, Shiojin), 3 ri, where 
also the river is reached, and from 
which Niigata is about 14 ri distant 
by steamer. 

The itinerary by road for the 
whole distance is as follows. 

NAOETSU to:— Bi.Cho. M. 

Kuroi — 35 2£ 

Katamachi 1 29 4 J 

Kakizaki 2 33 7 

Hassaki 1 24 4 

Aomigawa 2 27 6f 

Kashiwazaki 1 34 4f 

Arahama 1 18 3f 

Shiiya 2 — 5 

Izumosaki 2 29 6f 

Yamada 1 23 4 

Teradomari 1 22 4 

Yahiko 3 7 7| 

Takenomachi 2 9 5 J 

Akatsuka 1 22 4 

Uchino 1 23 4 

NIIGATA 3 19 8£ 

Total 33 30 82£ 



212 



Route 25. — The Karuizawa-Naoetsu Raihvay. 



Niigata (Hotel by Miola, called 
Restaurant International ; Inns, 
*Y6shi-kwan, Kushisei), capital of 
the prefecture of the same name, 
is situated on a narrow, sandy 
strip of land between the Shinano- 
gawa and the sea. 

Niigata was opened to foreign trade 
in 1869 ; but the commercial expectations 
entertained with regard to it have not been 
fulfilled, and almost the only foreigners 
now residing there are a few missionaries. 
Owing to the bar at the mouth of the 
river, vessels of foreign build cannot enter 
the port, but are compelled to anchor in 
the roadstead outside. A supplementary 
port in the Island of Sado, called Ebisu- 
Minato, is open to foreign vessels to take 
refuge in when the direction of the pre- 
vailing wind renders it dangerous to 
anchor off Niigata ; but trade is not per- 
mitted there. 

The town, which covers an area 
of rather more than 1 sq. mile, 
consists of five parallel streets in- 
tersected by other streets and canals. 
A line of low sand-hills shuts out 
all view of the sea. The climate of 
Niigata is very trying, — hot in sum- 
mer and terribly cold in winter, 
snow falling to a depth of 2 or 
3 ft., and lying for a considerable 
time. The houses are built with 
their gable ends towards the 
street, and the roofs are prolong- 
ed beyond the walls in order to 
prevent the snow from blocking up 
the windows. An enormous quantity 
of coarse lacquer ware is manufac- 
tured at Niigata ; and articles of a 
peculiar pattern called mokusa-nuri, 
or " sea-weed lacquer," are brought 
for sale from the district of Aizu 
where they are produced. In the 
suburbs of the city, Echigo chi- 
jimi is manufactured from hemp. 
The small public garden sur- 
rounding the Shinto temple of 
Hakusan, affords a fine prospect of 
the river and of the lofty range of 
mountains some 10 ri distant to 
the E. The neighbourhood cf Nii- 
gata offers few opportunities for 
excursions. The chief one is to 
the kerosene wells of Niitsu, some 
5 ri distant by basha or jinrikisha. 

Travellers intending to proceed 
north from Niigata, are advised to 



take steamer to Sakata, Funakawa, 
or Hakodate ; or else they may 
go across country from Sakata to 
Sendai (see Rte. 73). 

Island op Sado. 

The Island of Sado, which lies 32 
miles W. of Niigata, and is included 
in the Niigata Prefecture, can be 
reached by small steamer from the 
latter place in about 5 hrs. Steam- 
ers run daily from May to October ; 
for the rest of the year the sailings 
are irregular on account of the fre- 
quent storms that prevail on this 
bleak coast. The island is very hilly, 
consisting of two groups of moun- 
tains, separated by a cultivated 
plain. The principal formation is 
limestone. Sado has a population 
of 111,000, and is principally noted 
for its gold and silver mines situat- 
ed close to the town of Aikawa, 
which have been worked from the 
earliest times. During the middle 
ages, Sado was used as a place of 
exile for criminals. Among those 
who were relegated to its inhospi- 
table shore was the Buddhist saint, 
Nichiren. 

Aikawa {Inn, Takada-ya) is a 
poor-looking place, though it has a 
population of 13,000, and though 
the gold and silver mines are so 
near at hand. 

EMsu-minato {Inn by Ito Sei- 
emon), where passengers from Nii- 
gata generally land, is a large but 
wretched vill., situated on a narrow 
strip of beach between the sea and 
a lagoon. The distance from Ebisu- 
minato to Aikawa is 6 ri 29 chb 
(16J m.). 



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Route 26.— Ways to and from Kofu, 



213 



EOUTE 26. 

Ways to and feom Kofu. 

1. kofu and neighbouehood. 2. 
tokyo to kofu by the koshu 
kaido [saeuhashi to yoshida] . 

3. valley of the tamagawa. 

4. feom the tokaido to kofu 
via minobu. 5. eapids of the 
fujikawa. 6. kofu to shi- 
mo-no-suwa. 7. kofu to fuji 
ovee the misaka-toge. 8. ka- 
euizawa to kofu ovee the 
tsuyutaee pass. ascent of aka- 

DAKE. 

E.of u is a pleasant resting-place 
after arduous travel, — its central 
situation in the beautiful province 
of Koshu, and its proximity to 
places of such peculiar interest as 
Mitake, Fuji, Minobu, the Eapids 
of the Fujikawa, etc., causing it to 
be included in so many different 
tours as to render a description of 
the several ways to and from it 
advisable. 

1. — Kofu and Neighbouehood : 
Mitake and Kimpu-zan. 

Iiofn (Bins, Choyo-tei with for- 
eign restt. in the public garden ; 
Yonekura in Yanagi-machi ; Sado- 
ya), the capital of the prefecture of 
Yamanashi, is noted for the pro- 
gressive spirit of its people. For its 
size, it has more buildings in Euro- 
pean style than any other provin- 
cial town in Japan. Conspicuous 
amoDgst these are the Prefecture, 
the Normal School, the Banks, 
the Court Houses, the Town Hall, 
the Industrial School, and the silk- 
filatures. The castle grounds were 
many years ago turned into an ex- 
perimental garden, where excellent 
fruit and vegetables are grown. The 
platform where the keep formerly 
stood, affords a fine view of the 
town and surrounding country. 
Kof a is noted for its kaiki, a thin 
silken fabric used for the linings 



of dresses and for bed -quilts; 
also for a sweetmeat called tsuki 
no shizuku, that is "moon-drops," 
consistiug of grapes coated with 
sugar. The province of Koshu pro- 
duces excellent grapes, and at- 
tempts have been made, of late 
years, to manufacture wine and 
brandy from them. The grapes are 
in their prime about the end of 
September or beginning of October. 
Crystals are found in the neigh- 
bourhood, and cormorant fishing on 
a small scale may be witnessed. A 
great festival, called Mi-yuki no 
Matsuri, is held in Kofu on the 1st 
April. 

The chief historical interest of Kofu 
centres in its mediseval hero, Takeda 
Shingen, who was one of the fiercest 
feudal chieftains of the lawless times 
that preceded the establishment of the 
Tokugawa dynasty of Shoguns. Born in 
1521 as the eldest son of his father, lord 
of Koshu, it was his fate to be unjustly 
passed over by that father in favour of 
his second brother; and he was obliged 
to feign stupidity as a boy, in order to 
live in safety. When, however, both 
youths reached man's estate, Takeda 
Shingen' s superiority in skill and courage 
gained all the warriors of the clan over to 
his side, and he succeeded his father 
without demur. His whole time was 
spent in waging war against the barons 
of the neighbouring provinces of central 
and eastern Japan, especially against 
Uesugi Kenshin, lord of Echigo. Their 
most famous battle was that of Kawa- 
naka-jima. In middle life he became 
converted to the doctrines of the Tendai 
sect of Buddhists, built a temple to the 
god Bishamon, did public penance, ab- 
j ured the eating of fish and all intercourse 
with women, and went so far as to have 
himself decorated with the title of arch- 
bishop, — for what ecclesiastical authori- 
ties were going to refuse anything to a 
zealot who disposed of so man y soldiers ? 
He did not, however, renounce his grand 
passion, war, but kept on fighting till the 
end, his latter years being much disturbed 
by the consciousness of the growing 
power of leyasu, and being divided be- 
tween quarrels and reconciliations with 
that great captain. When mortally 
wounded in 1573, he left orders with his 
successor to hold no funeral service in 
his honour, but to keep his death a pro- 
found secret for three years, and then to 
sink his body privately in Lake Suwa, 
enclosed in a stone coffin. This was in 
order to prevent his numerous foes from 
taking heart at the news of his decease. 
His last will and testament was only par- 
tially obeyed ; for though his death was 



214 



Route 26.— Ways to and from Kofu. 



kept secret as long as possible, the body 
was not sunk in the lake, but buried at 
the temple of Eirinji at Matsuzato, a few 
miles from Kofu. The place still exists, 
the temple garden being a tasteful speci- 
men of rock work on a large scale. Brave 
but superstitious, Takeda Shingen was 
also an adept at governing men. His 
people liked and respected him, as was 
shown by the fact that none ever rebelled 
against him, even in that turbulent age 
when every man's hand was against every 
man. 

From Kofu a very pretty excur- 
sion may be made to the temples 
of M stake, distant about 5 ri. 
Jinrikishas can be taken as far as 
a place called Kizawa, some 2 ri 
from Kofu, whence onwards it is 
necessary to walk. The whole 
distance can be accomplished in 
3J hrs. The road winds up a fine 
rocky valley, crossing and recross- 
ing the Kamezawa-gawa several 
times. Beyond the hamlet of 
Kiyokawa, the river cuts its way 
through the rocks so as to form a 
charming double cascade called 
So-gatva-fuchi. A short way on, the 
traveller leaves this, the prettiest 
part of the road, and ascending to 
the r., comes in sight of the rocky 
valley in which lie the temples 
and village of Mi take. Excepting 
the beautiful site, a grove of magni- 
ficent trees, and the fine stone-work 
facing the slopes of the terraces, 
little now remains of the former 
grandeur of the place, which has 
fallen into the destructive hands 
of modern Shinto iconoclasts. The 
village of Mitake (Inn, Tama- 
ya), 2,800 ft. above the sea, lies 
just below the temple grounds, 
on the bank of a stream in the 
midst of extremely picturesque 
scenery, the most conspicuous 
rocky peaks being Gaki-san — a 
peculiar sugar-loaf cone — and Ten- 
gu-iwa on the opposite side of the 
valley. Specimens of rock-crystal 
are sold in the village. They are 
procured chiefly from mines in the 
neighbourhood of Kurobira on the 
way to Kimpu-zan. 

Kimpu-zan, a granite mountain 
8,300 ft. high, can be easily ascended 



in one day from Mitake by making 
an early start. The way lies* 
through the vill. of Kurobira. Near 
a Shinto shrine 2J hrs. beyond 
Kurobira, there is a good-sized 
hut for the accommodation of 
pilgrims ; and here the real ascent 
begins, the distance hence to the 
summit being about 2,000 ft. The 
way lies over a heap of large 
boulders. At two places, ladders 
are fixed to assist the climber 
over' difficult gaps, and at two 
others chains give additional secu- 
rity ; but even without the help of 
these, there would be no danger. 
The top is crowned by a huge 
inaccessible mass of granite, rising 
to a height of some 50 ft., and 
forming a landmark by which the 
mountain can be recognised at a 
great distance. The view includes 
Asama-yama on the N., Yatsu-ga- 
take almost due W., Fuji to the 
S., and the lofty mountain range 
on the Western boundary of the 
province of Koshu. 

2. — From Tokyo to Kofu by the 
Koshu Kaido. [From Saru- 

HASHI TO YOSHIDA.] 

The first stage of this journey, 
viz. as far as Hachioji, is by train 
from either Shimbashi or Shinjiku 
station, 1J hr. from the latter (see 
p. 119). The itinerary of the rest 
of the route is as follows : — 

HACHIOJI to:— Ri. Clio. M, 

Komagino 2 19 6£ 

Yose 2 30 7 

Yoshino 33 2J 

Uenohara 1 27 4| 

Notajiri 1 19 3f 

Saruhashi 3 6 7f 

Ozuki 1 2 2J 

Kuronota 2 29 6| 

Katsunuma 3 15 8J 

KOFU 4 2 10 

Total 24 2 58£ 



The whole ground may be covered 
in 2 days, by taking jinrikishas from 
Hachioji to Kofu, and sleeping the 



The Koshu Kaidd. 



215 



first night at Saruhashi. Carriages 
of the usual springless kind run the 
whole way. The scenery is pretty all 
along the route after passing Ko- 
magino, but the road is often heavy 
except close to the larger villages. 
From 

Hachioji (Inn, Kado-ya), the road 
lies along the flat to Komagino, 
beyond which vill. a gradual rise 
leads up the Kobotoke-toge. The 
new highway, avoiding as it does 
the summit of the pass (1,850 ft.), 
misses the extensive view over the 
plain of Tokyo and the sea, for 
which this portion of the journey 
was formerly noted ; but on the 
way down on the other side, there 
is a fine prospect of the Koshu 
mountains. Soon the fertile valley 
of the Banyu-gawa, also called Ka- 
tsura-gawa, comes in sight. This 
river flows at the bottom of a deep 
ravine and remains a constant com- 
panion as far as Ozuki. Some poor 
hamlets are passed before reaching 

YoslliiiO (Inn by Ofusa Seijuro). 
In the neighbourhood of 

Ueiiohara (Inn, Uehara), a great 
deal of refuse silk is spun and woven 
into the fabric called tsumugi, 
to be taken to market at Hachi- 
oji. The town, lying on a plateau, 
has no wells. All the water has 
to be brought from a distance in 
wooden pipes, and is consequently 
foul. From Uenohara, the road 
plunges down to the bed of the 
Tsurukawa, a tributary of the 
Banyu, and then again ascends 
and descends before arriving at 
Notajiri. Delightful glimpses of 
Fuji are obtained on the way. The 
scenery becomes strikingly pretty 
before reaching 

Saruhashi (Inns, Daikoku-ya, 
Kubota), 

that is, the "Monkey's Bridge," also 
called Enkyo, the latter name being in- 
deed bnt the Chinese pronunciation of 
the same ideographs which in pure Japa- 
ese read Saruhashi. The place derives its 
name from the bridge having formerly 
been a mere crazy plank, such as monkeys 
alone might be supposed likely to venture 
across. 



Perpendicular cliffs frown down 
upon the dark emerald stream, 
which is narrow and deep at 
this point. The present bridge 
is more or less of the cantilever sort, 
having the ends of the horizontal 
beams planted deep in the soil 
that covers the rock. Saruhashi, 
though but an unpretending place, 
has a certain importance as a 
market-town for the surrounding 
villages. Specimens of the tsumugi 
above-mentioned may be purchased 
here at cheap rates. 

The scenery continues to be lovely 
after passing Saruhashi. There is 
a celebrated view at a point where 
the Katsura-gawa is joined by its 
affluent, the Watagawa, between 
Saruhashi and Komahashi. 

Ozuki is badly situated, as a hill 
rising behind it shuts out the sun- 
light and the view of Fuji ; more- 
over the accommodation is poor. 
[A road to Yoshida, from which 
place Fuji may be ascended (see 
p. 144), branches off here to the 
1., following up the valley of 
the Katsura-gawa, and passing 
through the cleanly and thriv- 
ing town of Y'amnra (Inn, 
Susuki-tei). At Toka-ichiba 
there is a pretty cascade, which 
is seen to best advantage from 
the verandah of the tea- 
house _close by. The distance 
from Ozuki to Kami- Yoshida 
(Inn, Kogiku) is just under 6 
ri. The whole road is in a 
manner dominated by Fuji, 
beginning near Ozuki, where 
the great volcano appears en 
vignette, and then grows and 
grows till it fills up the entire 
foreground. It is also curious 
to observe the gradual conver- 
sion of the lava into arable 
soil, partly by weathering, part- 
ly by human toil.] 

At Ozuki the road abandons the 

Katsura-gawa, and proceeds up 

the valley of the Hanasaki-gawa 

through villages devoted to the 

| breeding of silkworms. The diver- 



216 



Route 26. — Ways to and from Kofu. 



sified forms of the mountains lend 
an unusual charm to the scene. 
After passing 

Kuronota (Inn, Miyoshi-ya), we 
ascend the Sasago-toge, 3,500 ft. 
above the sea, or 1,300 ft. above 
Kuronota. 

Katsumima is one of the cen- 
tres of the grape-growing industry. 
The fertile plain of Koshu now 
stretches out before us, surrounded 
on every side by a wall of high moun- 
tains. The chief summits to the 
W. are Koma-ga-take, Ho-6-zan, 
Jizo-dake, Kwannon, and Yakushi, 
backed by the long chain collec- 
tively known under the name of 
Shirane-san. Fuji also is visible 
now and then over the tops of a 
range bounding the plain on the S. 
From the vill. of Todoroki to Shimo 
Kuribara, the road is lined with 
peach-trees, double cherry-trees and 
kaido (Pyrus spectabilis), which are 
in full blossom about the middle of 
April. The road runs along the 
plain from this point into Kofu. 

3. — Tokyo to Kofu by the Valley 

OF THE TAMAGAWA (OmE KAIDO). 

Itinerary. 

TOKYO ( Shinjiku Station ) to 
Tachikawa by train in 1 hr., thence 
by road to : — 

Bi. Cho. M. 

Hamura 3 18 8£ 

OME 1 18 3f 

Sawai 2 18 6J 

Kotaba 1 18 3| 

Hikawa 2 — 5 

Kochi-no-yu(Yuba) 3 — 7J 

Kamozawa 2 — 5 

Tabayama 2 18 6§ 

Ochiai 3 18 8£ 

Yanagaziwa-toge . . 1 — 2 J 

Kamikane 1 18 3f 

Ofuji — 18 l| 

Kusakabe 1 18 3§ 

Hirashina 1 — 2-J 

Sa_togaki 2 — 5 

KOFU 1 — 2J 

Total 30 18 76£ 



This exceptionally pretty route, 
passing through some of the finest 
scenery in Eastern Japan, is much 
to be recommended at all seasons, 
and particularly in spring-time 
when the trees are in flower. Kofu 
can be easily reached by it in 3J 
days. Jinrikishas are practicable 
from Tachikawa to Ome ; but the 
road across the plain is mostly 
rough, and it is better to walk. 
Jinrikishas can, indeed, be taken 
on to Sawai, where the first night 
should be spent ; the rest of the 
journey till within 3 ri of Kofu 
must be performed on foot. Fair 
accommodation is also to be had 
at K6chi-no-yu, Tabayama, and 
Ofuji, but the food is everywhere 
very poor. 

Leaving Tachikawa and passing 
through several hamlets, we reach 
in 1 hr. the squalid-looking town of 
Raijima, a short distance beyond 
the Treaty Limit boundary. From 
the point where the road joins the 
Tamagawa aqueduct to the vill. of 
Hamura, the surface is harder and 
travelling somewhat easier. At 

Hamura {Inn, Tamaru-ya), we 
enjoy a charming glimpse of the 
Tamagawa, and can inspect the 
massive stone-work of the dam 
constructed there to carry off 
water for the supply of Tokyo. The 
road hence to Ome follows the 1. 
bank of the river, a heavy portion 
of the route in wet weather. At 
Ome, the Ome Kaido, or main road 
to Tokyo, is joined. It is now little 
us^d for through traffic. 

Ome (Inn by Sakanoe Binzo) 
consists of a single long street, 
lined with old gnarled fruit-trees, 
maples, crape myrtle, and pines, 
which give it a picturesque and 
pleasant appearance. Soon after 
entering the town, at the top 
of a flight of steps, stands a 
Shinto temple decorated with good 
carvings, chiefly of birds and fabu- 
lous animals. On leaving Ome, the 
road at once enters the Valley of 
the Tamagawa, ascending along its 
1. bank. The valley is here rather 



Valley of the Tamagaiva. 



2*7 



wide and well-cultivated. Shortly 
after passing 1. the path which 
leads over a rnannen-bashi to the 
sacred mountain of Mitake, the 
traveller may spend a few moments 
in watching the rafts shoot past 
the rocks in the river. Passing 
through the peach orchards of Mita- 
mura, the bridge at the entrance of 
Sawai is crossed, and here a path 
branches off r., leading by way of 
Hanno to Chlchibu and the pro- 
vince of Shinshu. At 

Sawai (Inn, Yamaguchi-ya), the 
beautiful part of the route begins. 
Just before reaching Kotaba, the 
valley contracts and winds, and the 
hills on either side increase in 
height, while in front rises the triple 
summit of Mitake. 

[Mitake, 2,900 ft. above the sea, 
not to be confounded with the 
place of the same name de- 
scribed on p. 214, is a pleasant- 
ly cool spot during the summer 
months. It is distant 3J hrs. 
from Ome on foot ; but jinriki- 
shas may be taken part of the 
way. There are no inns at the 
summit, where the temple 
stands. Rooms, however, can 
be ; hired at some of the houses 
inhabited by the priests.] 

Kotaba (Inn, Naga-ya,) is the 
highest point from which rafts 
descend the river. Further up, 
single logs are thrown into the 
water and left to float down with 
the current. The scenery con- 
tinues charming ; the path con- 
stantly ascends and descends, 
sometimes rising to a great eleva- 
tion above the stream. Corn, mil- 
let, and potatoes constitute the 
chief crops grown in the valley. 
Indigo and tobacco are also raised 
in small quantities. Descending 
through the remains of a cryp- 
tomeria grove, we cross the Nip- 
para-gawa, an affluent of the Tama- 
gawa, and after a short climb reach 
the village of 

Hikawa (Inn, Miyamoto-ya). At 



this place, and elsewhere in the 
valley, may be observed bevelled 
water-wheels, used where the bank 
is too high for the ordinary under- 
shot wheel. The floats are small 
and placed wide apart, and the 
axle is inclined at an angle in 
order to admit of the wheel 
dipping into the stream. The 
next stage beyond Hikawa is 
extremely picturesque and but 
sparsely populated. Below the 
path, which winds up and down 
the flank of the mountain, the 
stream dashes along a rocky chan- 
nel, sometimes forming deep, clean 
pools ; while above, on either hand, 
rise steep lofty hills, mostly covered 
with timber, but wherever the ex- 
posure is favourable, cultivated up 
to the highest possible point. 
Especially noticeable is the part 
where the road makes a deep bend 
to the r. just before coming to the 
baths of 

KoeJii^RO-yiJ (Inn, *Tsuru-ya, 
which has pleasant rooms over- 
hanging the river ; the inn by Hara- 
shima Koichir5 has a private bath). 
This place, 1,350 ft. above the sea, 
possesses tepid sulphur springs, 
which are much resorted to by the 
people of the neighbouring villages. 
Half a mile further we cross a tribu- 
tary stream called the Ogawa to the 
village of Kochi, and winding round 
to the r., pass in succession through 
Mugiyama and Kawano to the ham- 
let of Kamozawa at the boundary 
between the provinces of Musashi 
and Koshu. 

Kamozawa (no inns) stands in a 
striking situation on the hillside just 
above the road. From a point a short 
distance beyond, the scenery is very 
fine, and the road, considering the 
difficulties that had to be overcome, 
and the impossibility of preventing 
the effects of weathering on the 
easily disintegrated rocks over 
which it passes in many places, is a 
very creditable piece of engineering. 
It winds up the side of a magnifi- 
cent wooded gorge for 4 or 5 m., 
while the river flows away below 



218 



Route 26. — Ways to and from Kofu. 



under the shade of deciduous 
trees. Half-way, perched on the 
r. bank of the stream far beneath 
the road, lies the quaint-looking 
hamlet of Houose. At last, turniDg 
a corner, we come in view of the 
spacious upland valley in which, 
surrounded by corn-fields, lie 

Tabaya ma (Inn, Mori-ya ; height 
2,000 ft. above the sea) and one or 
two other hamlets. Beyond this 
the scenery becomes even more 
remarkable, and the views of deep 
ravines and rocky wooded precipices 
are among the finest to be seen 
in Japan. The most striking bits 
occur a short way above Tabayama, 
where grey fir-clad cliffs tower up 
to a height of over 2,000 ft. from 
the water's edge ; but the grandest 
prospect of all is about 1-J m. below 
Ochiai, where the road winds round 
the face of a lofty precipice com- 
manding a view up a densely 
wooded gorge almost to its very 
source. From this point to 

Ochiai, which is a mere cluster 
of huts with but rough accommoda- 
tion, and for 1 ri further to the top 
of the Y anagizaiua-toge (4,600 ft.), is 
a walk of about 2 hrs. over the only 
bad portion of this mountain route, 
the mud being thick and heavy 
even in the finest weather. The 
top of the pass affords a fine view 
of Fuji, rising above the intervening 
range of mountains. Descending 
on the Kofu side, the road follows 
the bank of the Ornogawa, which it 
crosses and recrosses, to the vill. of 

Kainikaiie (poor accommoda- 
tion), when for the first time opens 
out in full view the great range 
dividing the provinces of Koshu 
and Shinshu. The chief peaks from 
r. tol. are Koma-ga-take, Hd-6-zan, 
and Jizo-dake, with the triple peaks 
of Shirane-san behind, all rising 
beyond a nearer and lesser chain. 
The small wooded hill in front is 
Enzan, noted for a cold sulphur 
spring (good inn). From 

Ofliji (Inn, Fuji-ya) the main 
road descends straight into the 



plain of Kofu, crossing the 
Ornogawa and passing through 
Kusakabe with its avenue of pines 
and flowering trees. It crosses the 
Fuefuki-gawa a short distance fur- 
ther on at Sashide, where coaches 
may be engaged to Kofu. 

4. — SUZUKAWA ON THE T6KAIDO 

Railway to Kofu via Minobu. 

Itinerary. 

SUZUKAWA to :— Ei. Clio. M. 

Omiya (tram) 3 — 7 £ 

Manzawa 3 26 9 | 

Nambu 3 — 7§ 

MINOBU 3 8 l'i 

Hakii 30 2 

Yoka-ichiba 1 33 4f 

Kiri-ishi 20 l| 

Kajikazawa .... 1 29 4} 

KOFU 4 18 11 

Total 22 20 55 



Time, 2J to 3 days. 

It is possible to take jinrikishas 
the whole way ; but at least two 
men are needed, and there are 
numerous hills to walk up. Very 
poor accommodation except at O- 
rniya, Minobu, and Kajikazawa. 

Some way beyond Oaniya (Inn, 
Wata-ya) we reach the celebrated 
Tsuri-bashi, or " Hanging Bridge " 
over the Fujikawa, at a picturesque 
spot near Utsubusa where the river 
divides into two branches. This 
bridge, which is suspended to pre- 
cipitous rocks on either side by 
stout ropes of bamboos split and 
twisted together, consists of small 
bundles of split bamboos some 6 
or 7 ft. long, lashed close together 
and supporting a single row of 
planks laid along the middle as a 
pathway. The bridge, which is 
divided into two unequal spans by 
timber-supports resting on a lower 
rock close to the right bank, is 
altogether about 100 ft. long ; its 
height in the centre is about 26 ft., 
and at the bank 35 ft., and the 
whole structure shakes and sways 



Minobu. 



21» 



considerably, though there is no 
real danger. From Utsubusa on- 
wards, the road leads up the 
pleasant valley of the Fujikawa 
with occasional views of Fuji, 
Yatsu-ga-take, and other high 
mountains. 

Minobu (Inns, Tanaka-ya, Masu- 
ya) consists of a single hilly street 
lined with shops for the sale of 
rosaries. It was also at one time 
noted for the manufacture of 
hempen rain-coats (mino), a fact 
to which the origin of the name 
has been ascribed. The village is 
prettily situated in a valley sur- 
rounded by well-wooded mountains, 
among the most prominent being 
Oku-no-in which rises immediate- 
ly behind the temples, and Shichi- 
men-zan at the head of the valley. 
The vill. owes its existence to the 
great Monastery of Kuenji, founded 
in the 13th century by the celebrat- 
ed Buddhist saint Nichiren, a 
portion of whose body is here pre- 
served. This monastery is the head- 
quarters of the Nichiren sect, and 
the new temples now in process of 
erection to replace the former 
buildings destroyed by fire in 1875 
are fine specimens of Buddhistic 
architecture. 

On entering the grounds of the 
Monastery, the traveller crosses a 
courtyard, whence either of two 
flights of steps — the Otoko-zaka and 
the Onna-zaka — may be ascended to 
the actual temples. On reaching 
the top of the steps, and passing r. 
the belfry, the traveller will find 
himself in front of the Founder's 
Temple (Kaisan-do), from which gal- 
leries lead to the Temple of the True 
Bones (Go Shinkotsu-do), to the 
Temple of the Posthumous Tablet 
(IJiai-do), to the Pilgrims' Dormi- 
tory (Kyaku-dcn), to the Reception 
Rooms (Taimen-zashiki), and finally 
to the residence of the archbishop 
and the business offices of the sect 
(Jimusho). The interior dimensions 
of the main hall of the Founder's 
Temple are : length 75 ft., depth 
120 ft., height 26 ft. from floor to 



ceiling, while the altar is 24 ft. long 
by 15 ft. ^n depth. The porch has 
carvings of dragons, storks, birds 
playing over the waves of the sea, 
and tortoises swimming through it. 
The ventilating panels over the 
grated doors contain angels and 
phoenixes brightly painted. The 
framework of the building and the 
pillars which support the ceiling 
are lacquered red and black, pro- 
ducing a noble effect. In the centre 
of the nave (geji?i), hangs a magnifi- 
cent gilt baldachin^ presented by 
the merchants of Osaka. Gilded 
pillars mark off the space in front 
of the main altar, which is lacquer- 
ed red and decorated with gilt 
carvings of lions and peonies. The 
two porcelain lanterns about 8 ft. 
high, in front of the altar, are from 
the famous potteries of Hizen. The 
handsomely carved and gilded 
shrine contains a good life-size- 
effigy of Nichiren, presented by the 
inhabitants of Tokyd. The coffered 
ceiling of the chancel (naijin) is 
plainly gilt, while the part of it 
immediately over the altar has gilt 
dragons, touched up with red, on a 
gilt ground. To the wall behind 
the altar are affixed modern paint- 
ings of Rakan. The colours of the 
square brackets in the cornices are 
green, blue, red, and chocolate, 
often with an outline in white or a 
lighter shade of the principal 
colour, and gold arabesques on the 
flat surfaces. The gem of Minobu, 
however, is the Temple of the True 
Bones, where the lover of Oriental 
decorative art will find in contem- 
porary freshness all those beauties 
which, in most of the religious edi- 
fices of Japan, have already been 
too much tarnished by the hand of 
time. A small fee is charged for 
admission. The exterior is un- 
pretentious; but on entering the 
oratory, the visitor should observe 
the lifelike paintings of cranes on 
the ceiling. A plaiu gallery leads 
hence to the sanctum sanctorum, 
where Nichiren' s remains are en- 
shrined. It is a small octagonal 



220 



Route 26. — Ways to tind from Kofn. 



building, elaborately decorated and 
all ablaze with colours and gold. 
Round the walls, on a gold ground, 
are full-sized representations of the 
white lotus-flower, the emblem of 
purity and of the Buddhist faith. 
The horizontal beams above have 
coloured diapers and geometrical 
patterns, the brilliant effect of which 
is toned down by the black, mixed 
with gold, of the rafters. Black 
and gold are likewise the colours 
used in the ceiling, which is secured 
by admirably worked metal fasten- 
ings. In the ramma are carvings of 
the Sixteen Disciples (Ju-roku Ra- 
kan), and on the doors are paintings 
of musical instruments. Bright 
individually as are the many colours 
in this temple, all are so cunningly 
blended and harmonised that the 
general effect is one of exceeding 
softness and richness. The shrine 
(Jioto), which was presented by the 
faithful of the province of Owari, is 
of gold lacquer and shaped like a 
two-storied pagoda. In it rests the 
crystal reliquary or casket contain- 
ing the bones of Nichiren, which is 
in the form of a tiny octagonal 
pagoda, standing on a base of silver 
in the form of an upturned lotus- 
blossom, which itself rests on a 
reversed lotus of jade. Its frame- 
work is of the alloy called shakudo, 
and one of the pillars bears an in- 
scription in silver damascening, 
which, among other particulars, 
gives a date corresponding to A.D. 
1580. The other pillars are de- 
corated with silver tracery attached 
to the surface of the shakudo. The 
top is hung with strings of coral, 
pearls, and glass beads. The height 
of the whole is a little over 2 ft. 
Above hangs a baldachin presented 
by the inhabitants of Nagasaki. 
The only European innovation in 
the place is the introduction of two 
glass windows, which permit of a 
much better examination of the 
building than is generally obtain- 
able in the " dim religious light " of 
Japanese sacred edifices. The Tem- 
ple of the Posthumous Tablet is a 



plain, uninteresting building. Pend- 
ing the erection of the new build- 
ings, it has been temporarily used 
to hold the remains of the saint 
and an image of him carved by his 
disciple Nichho. The archbishop's 
residence is a beautiful specimen of 
Japanese house-decoration in the 
old style. Note the exquisite mo- 
dern open-work carvings of cranes 
and geese, and the fine paintings in 
the alcove (tokonoma) of the Recep- 
tion Rooms. For a fee of 25 sen, 
the priests officiating at the Kaisan- 
do will display the image on the 
altar and perform a short service 
(kaicho) in its honour. The chief 
yearly festival takes place on the 
12th and 13th October, old calendar 
(some time in November). 

The ascent to Oku-no-in winds 
up Ueno-no-yama, the hill imme- 
diately behind the Founder's Tem- 
ple, and is an easy climb of 50 cho. 
After passing the small temple of 
Sanko-do, the road ascends through 
a forest of cryptomerias, and near 
the summit commands an extensive 
view, including Fuji, part of the 
Gulf of Suruga, and the promontory 
of Izu. On the top stands a plain 
little temple dedicated to Nichiren, 
whose crest of the orange-blossom 
is prominently marked on various 
objects within the enclosure. 

A spare day at Minobu may be 
devoted to the ascent of Shichimen- 
zan, whose summit is not quite 5 ri 
distant. The best place to halt on 
the way is Akasawa (good inn), 3 ri 
2 cho from Minobu. There is a 
good road all the way up. The 
last 50 cho are marked by stone 
lanterns numbered from 1 to 50. 
No. 36 affords the best view, which 
includes the full sweep of Suruga 
Bay, with the promontory of Izu 
stretching far out to sea, a magnifi- 
cent prospect of Fuji, the fertile 
plain of Kofu intersected by the 
various streams uniting to form the 
Fujikawa, the valley of the Haya- 
kawa below to the 1., beyond which 
are seen Shiran e-san and the Koma- 
ga-take of Koshu, while Yatsu-ga- 



Shichimen-zan. The Fujikawa. 



221 



take, Kimpu-zan, and other distant 
ranges bound the prospect on the 
N. On the top, which the forest 
deprives of all view, stands a plain 
building dedicated to the goddess 
of the mountain. 

According to the legend, as Nichiren 
was one day preaching in the open air at 
Minobu, a beautiful woman suddenly 
made her appearance, and greatly excited 
the curiosity of his auditors. On Nichi- 
ren ordering her to assume her true form, 
she explained that she dwelt among the 
mountains to the west, and that seated 
on one of the eight points of the compass, 
she dispensed blessings to the other 
seven. She then begged for water, which 
was given to her in a vase, and at once 
the beautiful woman was transformed 
into a snake twenty feet long, covered 
with golden scales, and armed with iron 
teeth. A terrible blast swept down from 
the mountains, and she disappeared in a 
whirlwind towards the point of the com- 
pass indicated. The words " seven points- 
of-the-compass " (shichi-men) also mean 
" seven faces ; " and by an equivoque the 
popular belief has arisen that a serpent 
with seven heads had appeared to the 
saint, whom he deified under the name 
of Shichimen Daimyojin. Buddhist writers 
identify her with Srimahadeva, the deva 
of lucky omen, another name for the 
Hindoo god Siva. 

Game is plentiful on the hills 
surrounding Minobu. Deer and 
bears are frequently seen, and 
pheasants are abundant. Shooting, 
however, is strictly prohibited, as 
contrary to the tenets of the Bud- 
dhist faith. Departing from Mino- 
bu and passing through 

llilkif, the place where travellers 
coming down the Fujikawa en route 
to Minobu leave the boat, we reach 
Fukui, between which vill. and 
Itomi the Hayakawa is crossed. 

[For a description of the extreme- 
ly picturesque valley of this 
river, see p. 224.] 

The current flows so swiftly at the 
ferry that the boat has to be 
fastened to either bank by a rope. 
The crossing is effected by the help 
of a pole, and by quickly hauling 
on one end of the rope as the other 
is slackened. The scenery at this 
point is remarkably fine. A mass 
of rock, inclined at an acute angle 



on the 1. bank of the Fujikawa, 
just opposite the confluence of the 
Hayakawa, deserves notice. From 
Itomi onwards, the road generally 
follows the bank of the river to 
Yoka-ichiba {Inn, Wakao-ya) and 
Kiri-ishi (Inn, Matsuzaka-ya), then 
descending to the vill. of Nishijima, 
where the river makes a wide bend 
to the r. Beyond 

Kajika-zawa (Inn, Ueda-ya), the 
road enters the plain of Kofu, with 
its amphitheatre of mountains, 
whose various summits are seen 
from numerous other points ; but 
the best general view of them is 
enjoyed while crossing the bed of 
the Fujikawa, here called the Kama- 
nashi-gawa, beyond Anabara. The 
imposing mass to the 1. is Yatsu- 
ga-take, rising between Kane-ga- 
take to the r. and Koma-ga-take to 
its 1. The high mountain to the 1. 
of the latter, distinguished by a 
pile of rocks on its summit, is 
Ho-6-zan, to whose 1. stretches 
the great range of Shirane. The high 
mountain to the r. of Kane-ga-take 
is Kimpu-zan. Fuji's cone alone is 
visible above the intervening range. 
Shichimen-zan is seen on looking 
back down the valley. The 4j- ri 
separating Kajika-zawa from Kofu 
can be done by basha in about 
3 hrs. 

5. — From Kofu to Iwabuchi on 
the tokaido by the rapids op 

the Fujikawa. 

Roughly speaking, this is No. 4 
reversed, but done partly by boat 
instead of wholly by road. Time, 
1 day; 2 days if the journey be 
broken at Minobu, for which alight 
at Hakii. The walk from the river 
to the vill. of Minobu occupies f 
hr. Goach or jinrikisha can be taken 
for the first stage from Kofu to 
Kajikazawa, where boats are 
engaged to Iwabuchi (price $3J for 
boat with 4 men, weather being 
favourable, or seat in ordinary pas- 
senger boat entailing many delays, 
35 sen). 



222 



Route 26. — Ways to and from Kofu. 



There is considerable traffic on 
the Fujikawa, no less than 600 
boats being engaged in it. When 
the river is in its ordinary state, 
the times taken are as follows : 

KAJIKAZAWA to :— hrs. 

Hakii 2 J 

Nambu 1 

IWABUOHI 3 

Total 6J 

As far as the confluence of the 
Hayakawa the river flows placidly 
along, now at the base of bare 
rocky hills, now past villages and. 
rice-fields. Below this point begins 
a series of races and small rapids, 
the most remarkable of which is 
just above the Hanging Bridge, 
where the current whirls along 
at a dizzy pace. On nearing 
Matsuno, some fine groups of hexa- 
gonal andesite columns will be 
noticed on the r. bank. At 

Iwabuclii (Inn, *Tani-ya), the 
boats are taken along the canal to 
the landing-place close by the rail- 
way station. 

6. — From Kofu to Shimo-no-Suwa 
on the nakasendo. 

Itinerary. 

KOFU to :— EL Cho. M. 

Nirazaki 3 5 7| 

Enno 2 — 5 

DAI-GA-HARA ..2 9 5J 

Kyoraishi 1 16 3J 

Tsutaki 1 6 2f 

Kanazawa 3 8 7f 

Kami-no-Suwa 3 19 8£ 

SHIMO-NO-SUWA 14 2$ 

Total 17 31 43i 



This road is a continuation of 
the Koshu Kaido, the first section 
of which, from Tokyo to Kofu, has 
been described on pp. 214-16. It is 
practicable for basha and jinriki- 
shas the whole way. 

Leaving Kofu and crossing the 
Shiogawa, an affluent of the Fuji- 
kawa, we reach 



Nirazaki (Inn, Yashima-ya) and 
Fnno, also called Tsubarai or 
Marino. From a grove of trees just 
beyond Tsubarai, there is a grand 
view of Koma-ga-take, the whole 
sweep to the sharp summit of the 
precipitous rocky mass being seen 
to perfect advantage. The road 
now ascends the valley of the 
Kamanashi-gawa, the greater part 
of it as far as Dai-ga-hara being built 
up on the stony beds of various 
streams. The scenery of the valley 
is very pretty, and in many places 
quite striking. The r. side is lined 
with peculiar castellated cliffs of 
brown conglomerate, while to the 
1. rises the high range of which 
Koma-ga-take is the principal fea- 
ture. Further on, Yatsu-ga-take 
appears to the r., while on looking 
back beautiful and varied views of 
Fuji are to be seen. We next reach 

Dai-ga-hara (Inn, Take-ya), 
whence the ascent of the Koshu 
Koma-ga-take can best be made (see 
p. 228). Beyond Dai-ga-hara, the 
road is lined on one side with fine red 
pine-trees, which shut out the view 
of the river as far as 

Kyoraishi (Inn, Izumi-ya). At 
the boundary of the provinces of Ko- 
shu and Shinshu, the road crosses to 
the 1. bank of the Kamanashi-gawa, 
and passing through the insignificant 
vill. of Shimo Tsutaki, reaches 

Kami Tsutaki (Inn, Osaka-ya), 
after which it becomes hilly. 
The highest point is reached at 
3,070 ft. above the sea, being 1,050 
ft. above Dai-ga-hara. Thence we 
descend to 

Kanazawa (Inn, Matsuzaka-ya), 
and down the valley of the Miya- 
gawa, where the waters of Lake 
Suwa soon come in view. From 
several points further on, fine 
views are gained of the mountains 
on the borders of Hida, the most 
conspicuous summits being Iwasu- 
ga-take and Yari-ga-take. The lofty 
mountain in the distance to the 1. 
of the lake is Nishi Koma-ga- 
take. 

Kami-no-Suwa (Inn, Botan-ya) 



The Misalca-toge. Karuizawa to Kofu. 



223 



is a busy town on the borders of the 
lake. About 2 ri distant stands the 
Ichi no Miya, or chief Shinto temple 
of the province of Shinshu, which 
contains some excellent wood carv- 
ings. The annual festival is held 
on the 1st August. The road now 
skirts the slopes on the N. shore of 
the lake, arjd passing through the 
hamlets of Owa andTakaki, reaches 
Shimo-no-Suwa (see Route 35). 

7. — Fkom Kofu over the Misaka- 
toge to yoshida at the base 
of Fuji, and to Gotemba on 
the t6kaido railway. 

Itinerary. 

KOFU to :— Bi. Clio. M. 

Izaw T a 1 23 4 

Kami Kurogoma . . 1 31 4J 

Tonoki 1 18 3f 

Kawaguchi 2 30 6J 

YOSHIDA 2 3 5| 

Yamanaka 4 8 10J 

Subashiri 2 — 5 

GOTEMBA 2 30 7 

Total 18 35 46J 

Time required, 2 days, stopping 
at Yoshida the first night. Yoko- 
hama may easily be reached by 
train from Gotemba on the evening 
of the second day. Jinrikishas are 
practicable with two men the whole 
way, when the roads are in good 
repair. 

The road follows the Kdshu Kai- 
do as far as 

Izawa {Inn, Shishimoto), where 
it turns off to the r., and soon 
enters a narrow valley. From Kami 
Kurogoma it rises rapidly to 

Tonoki {Inn, Sakai-ya), 3,200 ft. 
above the sea. It then ascends for 
about 1 hr. through a forest to the 
hut on the summit of the Misaka- 
toge, which is 5,120 ft. above the 
sea. The view of Fuji from this 
point, as it rises from Lake Kawa- 
guchi, is justly celebrated. Below 
is the vill. of Kawaguchi ; on the 
opposite side of the lake are Fu- 
natsu and Kodachi; further S. is 



Lake Yamanaka. The view look- 
ing back towards the N. and W. 
includes Kimpu-zan, Yatsu-ga-take, 
Koma-ga-take, Jizo-dake, and in 
the plain below, the vill. of Izawa. 
It is an hour's descent to 

KawagncM (Inn, Nakamura), a 
poor vill. lying a couple of hundred 
yards from the lake. Boats can be 
procured from here to Funatsu, 
making an agreeable change in the 
day's work ; or else one may follow 
the road skirting the lake through 
the hamlet of Akasaw T a for about 
f hr., with steep mountains on every 
side. Funatsu produces w 7 hite and 
coloured tsumugi, a coarse fabric 
woven from spun floss silk. From 
Funatsu to Yoshida, and indeed 
all the way on to Subashiri and 
Gotemba, the road traverses the 
moor that forms the base of Fuji. 

8. — From Karuizawa on the Na- 
kasendo to kofu by the tsuyu- 
tare Pass. 

Itinerary. 

KARUIZAWA to :— Bi. Clio. M. 

Iwamurata 4 33 12 

Usuda 2 5 5£ 

Takano-machi 1 7 3 

Hata 1 20 3| 

Umijiri 3 10 . 8 

Itabashi 2 10 5 J 

Nagasawa 4 4 10 

Mrasaki 4 32 12 

KOFU 3 18 8| 

Total 27 31 68 



This route is recommended to 
those whose chief object is moun- 
tain climbing. Exclusive of such 
climbing, the journey takes 2 days, 
jinrikishas being available for the 
first part between Iwamurata and 
Usuda, and basha from Nirasaki 
to Kofu. The rest must be done 
on foot. There is accommodation 
of the usual country sort at the 
places mentioned in the itinerary. 

Hata is the best place from which 
to ascend Tateshina-yama. This 
expedition requires the whole of a 



224 



Route 27. — Valley of the Hayakawa. 



long day, but repays the trouble 
by the extensive view which the 
peak affords. 

From Umijiri, at the end of the 
Iwasaki gorge, one may visit the 
sulphur springs of Inago (21 cho), 
and thence go up to the Honzawa 
baths (3 ri), situated at a height of 
3,200 ft. above Umijiri. The sum- 
mit of the Honzawa pass, some 40 
min. walk beyond the Honzawa 
baths, is 7,400 ft. above the sea. 
From this point a path leads to the 
summit of Mikaburi-yama, 8,450 ft. 
above the sea. The whole expedi- 
tion will occupy a day. 

Itabashi is the best starting-point 
for the ascent of Akadake, but there 
is no path. Two ri across the moor 
from Itabashi is a wood-cutter's 
hut at the base of the spur where 
the ascent begins, and it is advisable 
to sleep there in order to make an ear- 
ly start. The hut stands about 5,300 
ft. above the sea, which leaves 3,690 
ft. to be still ascended, the summit 
having an altitude of 8,990 ft., and 
the climb being very steep in parts. 
The view includes Asama-yama, 
Kimpu-zan, Fuji, and all the moun- 
tains on the W. boundary of Koshu. 
Guides cannot always be procured 
at Itabashi. In this case it will be 
necessary to proceed to Hirasawa, 
half-way between Itabashi and 
Nagasawa, where they can be had 
at any time. 

From Nagasawa it is an easy 
climb up Gongen-dake, the most 
southerly of the numerous peaks 
known under the collective name 
of Yatsu-ga-take. It is not usual, 
however, with the Japanese to make 
the ascent until after the autumn 
equinox, and the traveller may 
therefore experience a little diffi- 
culty in obtaining guides. In this, 
as in the previous case, he will do 
best to make Hirasawa his starting- 
point. The ascent occupies about 5 
hrs., the descent to Nagasawa 3 
hrs., that to Hirasawa 4 hrs. The 
view includes the whole of the 
Hida-Shinshu range, amongst which 
Yari-ga-take is conspicuous to the 



N. W., Fuji is seen towering aloft S. 
by E., the Koshu Koma-ga-take S. 
W. by S., Shirane a little to its S., 
H6-6-zan S.S.W., distinguished by 
the monumental pile of rocks at 
its summit, and Kimpu-zan S.E. by 
E. 



ROUTE 27. 

The Valley of the Hayakawa. 
Itinerary. 

MINOBUto:— Ri. Cho. M. 

Akasawa 3 — 7J- 

Gokamura 2 J — 6 

Kyo-ga-shima 2 — 5 

Hayakawa 1 — 2 J 

Shimo Yujima . . 3J — 8J 

Narada 2 — 5 

Ashikura 5 — 12J 

Arino 2 — 5 

Dodo — 15 1 

Midai — 10 f 

KOFU 2 — 5 

Total 23 25 58 



These distances are approximate, 
and it is possible that some of the 
mountain ri may be of 50 cho in- 
stead of only 36 cho, which would, 
of course, proportionately increase 
the mileage. An alternative plan 
at the start, for those coming down 
the Fujikawa, is to alight at the 
hamlet of Itomi, near the confluence 
of that river with the Hayakawa, 
and join the above itinerary near 
Gokamura, 3J ri from Itomi. 

This route is a very rough one ; 
for though so close to civilisation, 
the country through which it 
leads lies in the heart of the 
great mountain mass dividing Ko- 
shu from Shinshu and Suruga, and 
both the people and the roads are 
in much the same state as they 
were in earlier centuries before rail- 
ways were known or foreigners 



Narad a. 



225 



heard of. The journey can only 
be accomplished on foot, and one 
should travel as lightly as possible, 
for all baggage has to be carried 
by coolies, who are often difficult 
to obtain. The traveller will meet 
with no regular inns ; but the offi- 
cials and headmen of the various 
hamlets are very civil, and ready to 
provide the best accomodation their 
places afford. It is possible to com- 
bine with this trip the ascent of 
the Koshu Shirane-san and other 
lofty peaks which form the subject 
of the next route. 

At Akasawa the path strikes r. in 
order to enter the valley of the 
Hayakawa, which it does near Go- 
kamura. A short way beyond this, 
it descends to a pretty valley near 
the hamlet of Shio-no-ue, where the 
scenery is particularly striking. To 
the 1. rises Shichimen-zan, thickly 
wooded and seen to much better ad- 
vantage here than from Minobu. 
Directly opposite is the bold round 
summit of Amebata-yama, also 
called Zaru-ga-take, through the 
deep ravine to the 1. of which flows 
the Amebata-gawa. Below is seen 
the Hayakawa winding down the 
valley on the r., and forming almost 
a complete circle as it bends round 
a low wooded promontory, which 
from this point has the appearance 
of an island. The path now de- 
scends over a rough water-course to 
the bed of the river, and ascends 
the 1. bank to Kyo-ga-shima. Eight 
cho further on, it crosses the stream 
on a tsuri-bashi, or " hanging 
bridge," to the hamlet of Ho, in 
the neighbourhood of which a gold 
mine is worked. 

For a description of the tsuri-bashi of 
the mountain districts of Eastern and 
Central Japan, see p. 218. Another primi- 
tive kind of bridge, called mannen-bashi, 
has sometimes to be crossed on this route. 
It consists of a long piece of timber, 
which is simply tied at the end to project- 
ing supports, such as are used in the 
hanging bridge. The span is not so great 
as that of the tsuri-bashi ; but the narrow- 
ness of the roadway, and the imperfect 
manner in which the projecting beams 
are supported, give the traveller a most 



uncomfortable feeling of insecurity. The 
Japanese name is a hyperbole signifying 
" Bridge of a Myriad Years." 

Beyond Ho, the path leads over 
one of the lower spurs of Daikoku- 
yama, and follows the steep side of 
the valley high above the stream. 
After passing the hamlet of Nishi- 
no-miya, one re-crosses the river to 

Hayakawa, Comfortable quarters 
may be obtained one mile further 
on at the house of the Soncho (Mayor) 
of Misato, the "three villages " of 
which Hayakawa is one. Gold is 
said to be found in the neighbour- 
hood, while plantations of the paper- 
tree (Edgeworthia) and of tobacco, 
line this part of the valley. Higher 
up, beyond the hamlet of Arakawa, 
the scenery is charming. The river 
dashes along through a fine rocky 
glen, and is spanned by one of the 
mannen-bashi at a highly pictur- 
esque spot. After crossing the bridge, 
the road divides. The route to 
Narada turns to the r., and ascends 
a very steep hill for about 1 ri, 
winds round its upper slope, and 
descends again to the river through 
wild and rugged scenery before 
reaching the hamlet of Shimo Yu- 
jima. Beyond this place, the path 
crosses and re-crosses the river on 
mannen-bashi. About 40 cho on, 
and a little way up the ravine to 
the r., is the Lot spring of Kami 
Yujima (poor accommodation). 

Narada. (accommodation at a 
Buddhist temple), the last in- 
habited place in the valley, consists 
of but a few households. All 
the inhabitants bear the same sur- 
name, and seldom intermarry with 
the people of other villages. They 
are a primitive folk of a peculiar 
type of countenance, who wear in 
summer a loose hempen dress, and 
deer and bear-skins in the winter. 
Their dialect is peculiar, abound- 
ing in archaic words and ob- 
solete grammatical forms. Owing 
to their practical isolation from 
the outer world, their ignorance 
and want of education are extreme, 
and thev are content to live in dirt 



226 Route 28. — Mountains between the Fujikawa & Tenryu. 



and squalor. Rice, sake, and soy 
are with them, luxuries to be in- 
dulged in on rare occasions, their 
ordinary food consisting only of 
millet and potatoes. Narada boasts 
" Seven Wonders " ( Nana Fu- 
shigi), amongst which are enu- 
merated a brackish pool, the 
waters of which are said to have 
the property of dyeing black any 
article of clothing left to steep in 
them for forty-eight hours, and a 
reed whose leaves grow only on one 
side of the stem. 

More interesting to the deter- 
mined pedestrian than these village 
wonders will be the ascent of Shira- 
ne-san, which may be taken on the 
way to Ashikura, instead of pro- 
ceeding to the latter place by the 
usual path according to the itin- 
erary. For this ascent, see next page. 

The ordinary path from Narada 
to Ashikura winds up and down a 
succession of forest-slopes, whose 
thick foliage almost entirely shuts 
out all view. Now and then, how- 
ever, glimpses are caught of Shi- 
rane-san and of the valleys of the 
Arakawa and Norokawa. Further 
on the path divides, — r. to Kofu via 
Hirabayashi, 1. to Kofu via Ashi- 
kura. The latter is not practicable 
during heavy rains ; but the travel- 
ler is recommended to take it when 
it can be traversed, on account of 
its wild and beautiful scenery. A 
portion of the way lies down a 
precipitous rocky ravine known as 
the Ide-zaiva> where the gorge is 
in many places so narrow that its 
perpendicular sides seem almost to 
meet overhead. The path descends 
by the side of a torrent, crossing 
and re-crossing the stream on trunks 
of trees, and being occasionally 
carried over clefts and landslips 
on bridges of very primitive 
construction. 

Ashikurn, which stands on the 
1. bank of the Midai-gawa, consists 
of four hamlets named Katsnzawa 
(the highest up the valley), Ozori, 
Kozori, and Furu-yashiki lower 
down. Persons who intend to 



make the ascent of H6-6-zan or 
Kaigane should stay at Kozori. 
There is also fair accommodation 
at Furu-yashiki. Jinrikishas may 
sometimes be found on entering the 
Kofu plain. 



EOUTE 28. 

The Mountains between the Fuji- 
kawa AND THE TeNBYU-GAWA. 

1. SHIBANE-SAN ( NODOBI, AI-NO- 
TAKE, KAIGANE). 2. HO-6-ZAN. 

3. THE KOMA-GA-TAKE OF KOSHU. 

4. AKAISHI-SAN. 

The great mountain mass to the 
W. of Kofu, lying between the 
valleys of the Fujikawa, Oigawa, 
and Tenryu-gawa, is second only in 
orographical importance to the 
Etchu-Hida mountains described 
in Eoute 30. Climbing in this 
range involves no little hardship, for 
the reasons stated in the introduc- 
tion to the previous route, with 
which the greater part of this one 
may conveniently be combined. 
None but experienced mountaineers 
should attempt it. 

1. — Shibane-san. 

In order to avoid confusion when 
arranging with peasant-guides and 
hunters, let it be understood that 
Shirane-san is not one individual 
peak, but a general name for the 
northern and more elevated portion 
of the range of which Nodori-san, 
Ai-no-take, and Kaigane are the 
chief peaks. The two latter are 
called Arakawa-dake and Kita-dake 
respectively in the Geological Maps. 

There exists a somewhat amusing 
i-ivalry between the inhabitants of Narada 
from which the first two peaks are as- 
cended, and those of Ashikura, the nearest 
point to the third, one village maintain- 
ing that Ai-no-take is the highest of the 



Ascent of Shirane-san. 



227 



three and the true Shirane, while the 
other claims that honour for Kaigane. An 
unprejudiced observer, looking at the range 
from the summit of Ho-6-zan or from any- 
other mountain top that commands a view 
of the two peaks, will adjudge the Ashi- 
kura people to he in the right about the 
question of altitude. 

Narada (see p. 225) is the starting 
point for the ascent, — not that there 
is any regularly marked path thence 
to the top of the range, but that guides 
are there procurable who know the 
way up, and will carry whatever is 
necessary in the way of provisions 
;and bedding. Those who purpose 
to ascend all of Shirane's peaks 
must be prepared to sleep out three 
nights, and, taking Nodori-san first, 
to cross on the fourth day from the 
base of Kaigane to Ashikura (see p. 
226). Nodori and Ai-no-take in- 
volve sleeping out two nights and 
descending on the third day — like- 
wise to Ashikura. There is a hut at 
the E. base of Kaigane, but none on 
the top of the range. Ai-no-take 
cannot be ascended direct from 
Narada ; Nodori must first be 
climbed, and the track followed 
along the ridge to the former peak. 

From Narada there is a choice of 
ways up Shirane, one leading along 
a ravine called Hiro-Kochi, the 
other up the Shira-Kochi a short 
way below it. To the top of 
the ridge is a stiff climb of 9 hrs., 
frequent rests being needed by the 
guides who carry the burdens. The 
height is 8,400 ft. above the sea, or 
5,900 ft. above Narada, and snow 
often lies there as late as July. 
Once on the ridge, the rest of the 
ascent is easy. In 2 hrs. the first 
peak, nameless on the maps, is 
reached. The view includes W.S.W., 
the round top of Ena-san in Mino ; 
N.W. by W., Ontake ; and in front 
of the highest peak of a long ridge, 
the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu. Nori- 
kura bears N.W., and Yari-ga-take 
N.W. by N. In the far distance 
N.E., the top of the Nikko Shirane 
can just be descried, and the Chi- 
chibu mountains are well seen in 
the same direction. Ho-6-zan is 



nearly N.N.E. ; then come Jizo-ga- 
take, and Kwannon and Yakushi 
close together. Fuji, the basin of 
the Fujikawa, and the Kofu plain 
are distinctly visible. 

Half an hour more brings us to 
the top of NMori, 9,970 ft., which 
commands much the same view as 
the previous summit, with the ad- 
dition of Ai-no-take and Kaigane, 
the latter of which now comes in 
sight for the first time. 

From the summit of Nodori to 
that of Ai-no-take (10,260ft.) takes 
2 hrs. The top consists of bare 
rock ; but a little below, every shel- 
tered nook has a patch of grass, 
gay with the flowers that inhabit 
higher altitudes. Ten min. below the 
summit on the E. side, is an excel- 
lent camping place. The view from 
the highest point includes, besides 
the mountains already mentioned, 
the following : — Koma-ga-take a 
little to the E. of N., Kaigane 
N.N.E. , Yatsu-ga-take just on the 
E. of Kaigane ; Kimpu-zan N.E. 
by E., and Senjo-ga-take, a much, 
lower mountain on the 1. of 
the Norokawa, N.W. The source 
of this stream is perceived far down 
on the N.W. flank of Ai-no-take. 
Towards the S., and beyond Nodori- 
san, a long range of mountains is 
seen stretching down the frontier of 
Koshu, and getting gradually lower 
as it approaches Minobu. Fuji rises 
between S.E. and E.S.E., while H6- 
6-zan and Jizo-ga-take on the one 
side, and Ontake, Norikura, and 
Yari-ga-take stand up perfectly clear 
on the other. The descent from 
Ai-no-take to Ashikura is fatiguing 
as far as a stream some 4,200 ft. 
above sea level. This stream is 
the Arakawa, one of the sources of 
the Hayakawa. If the day is too 
far spent to allow of Ashikura being 
reached before nightfall, one may 
sleep at some wood-cutters' huts, 1J 
hr. before getting to that village. 

Kaigtine (10,330 ft.) can best be 
ascended from Kozori, one of the 
hamlets of Ashikura. It is a day's 
climb to a small temple where a 



228 Route 28. — Mountains between the Fujikawa & Tenryu. 



halt may be made for the night, 
whilst the remainder is said to 
take 6 hrs. The usual plan is to 
descend to the temple and spend 
the second night there, returning to 
Ashikura next day. But should the 
traveller wish to complete the round 
by ascending Ai-no-take and N6- 
dori-san, it will be necessary to 
sleep out one if not two nights 
more before descending either to 
Narada or to this temple. 

2. — H6-6-ZAN. 

The ascent of this mountain 
(9,550 ft.) which, like that of Kai- 
gane, is best made from Ashikura, 
will occupy a good pedestrian about 
9 hrs., and the descent 5 hrs. in- 
cluding stoppages. Though it is 
possible, by making an early start, 
to complete the ascent and descent 
in one day, it is not usual for pil- 
grims to do so. They generally, 
on the downward journey, halt for 
the night at the wood-cutters' hut of 
v^muro, 1J ri below the summit. 
The accommodation being rough, 
provisions and bedding should be 
taken. Those who wish to enjoy 
the morning view from the summit 
must either make a late start 
from Komoro and spend the night 
at Omuro, ascending next morning 
at daybreak; or start early, and 
bivouac at the hollow between the 
summits of Jizo and H6-6-zan. 
In the latter case it will be necessary 
to take utensils for carrying water, as 
no water can be got beyond Omuro. 
The ascent commences beyond the 
hamlet of Kutsuzawa, 12 did from 
Kozori. The view from Suna-harai, 
a rocky peak over which the path 
leads, includes in front Senjo-ga- 
take, over whose r. flank is seen 
the outline of the Shinshti Koma- 
ga-take ; on the 1. the ridge slopes 
down to the valley of the Norokawa, 
on the opposite side of which rises 
the sharp summit of Kaigane ; lower 
down the valley, stands out the bold 
massy form of Ai-no-take, while in 
the further distance appear the 
lofty mountains on the northern 



boundary of Suruga. To the r., the 
summits of Yakushi-dake and 
Kwannon-dake shut out the more 
distant prospect. The view on 
looking back includes Fuji, the 
Kofu plain, and surrounding moun- 
tains. Yakushi-dake is not usually 
ascended by pilgrims. From Kwan- 
non-dake which they do generally 
visit, there is a fine view of the 
ravine through which the Norokawa 
flows. The highest point — H6-6-zan 
properly so called — is still further 
on, and may be scaled as far as the 
ledge which supports the two enor- 
mous blocks or pillars of granite 
that form the actual summit. The 
view closely resembles that from 
Koma-ga-take described below. 

H6-6-zan may also be ascended 
from Enno on the Koshu Kaido 
(see p. 222). The distance to the 
top of the gap between Jizo-dake 
(a lower spur of the Kwannon-dake 
above-mentioned) and Hd-o-zan is 
called 5 ri. The path crosses the 
spur to the 1. of the vill., and 
descends to the bed of the Komu- 
kawa, which is followed up until 
the actual ascent of 2J ri com- 
mences. 

3. — The Koma-ga-take of Koshu. 

Dai-ga-hara on the Koshu Kaido 
is the best starting point for this 
grand mountain, 9,840 ft. above 
sea level. The climb is so precipi- 
tous and difficult in parts as to have 
given rise among the pilgrims to the 
use of such terms as Oya shirazu 
Ko shirazu (see p. 146), Idvi no 
Nanjo, or the " First Difficulty," Idii 
no Nozoki, or the " First Peep " (over 
a precipice), etc. The ascent is 
also so long — nominally 7 ri to the 
summit — as to necessitate sleeping 
one night at the Omuro or Uma- 
dome huts on the mountain side. 
Water should be taken up, as none 
can be procured except at these huts. 
The summit consists of two peaks, 
on one of which stands a bronze 
figure of the Shinto god Onamuji. 
On the second and higher peak,, 
called Oku-no-in, is a small image 



Ascent of Koma-ga-take and Akaishi-san. 



229 



of the Buddhist deity Marishi-ten. 
The summit commands a magnifi- 
cent view on every side. Looking 
S., the eye sweeps over the valleys 
of the Norokawa and Tashiro-gawa, 
to the 1. of which rises the long 
range of Shirane, the most conspic- 
uous summits being the snow- 
streaked peak of Kaigane-san which 
stands in close proximity, and 
beyond, the bold mass of Ai-no-take, 
the central portion of the range. 
Beneath is the ravine through which 
.the Norokawa flows as it winds 
round the base of Kaigane ; the 
mountain to the r. is Senjo-ga-take. 
Beyond Shirane several high moun- 
tains are visible, being probably 
those that stand on the N. 
boundary of Suruga. Towards the 
E. the valley of the Fujikawa is 
seen between the near summit of 
H6-6-zan and the E. slope of Kai- 
gane, and in the far distance can be 
distinguished the promontory of 
Izu and the sea. The most striking 
feature of the view is Fuji, to 
whose 1. a wide plain stretches far 
away to the E. Towards the N. 
and W. the following mountains 
appear in succession : — A portion 
of the Chichibu range, Kimpu-zau, 
Yatsu-ga-take, Asama-yama, the 
lofty mountains on the borders of 
Etchu and Hida, Ontake, the 
Koma-ga-take of Shinshu, and 
Ena-san, while the nearer view in- 
cludes the plain of Kofu, the valley 
of the Kamanashi-gawa, Tateshina- 
yama, the mountains about the 
Wada pass, Lake Suwa, and the 
valle/y of the Tenryu-gawa. 

Rhododendrons grow in great 
quantities on Koma-ga-take. Dur- 
ing the latter part of July, when 
the trees, which attain to a consider- 
able size, are in full bloom, they 
impart a charming hue to the scene. 

4. — Akaishi-san. 

This, though one of the highest 
peaks of the range separating the 
valleys of the Tenryii and the Oi- 
gawa, is little known because not 
visible from any of the ordinary lines 



of travel. It is best approached 
from Takato (Inn, Ikegami-ya), an 
important town situated in the 
valley of the Mibukawa, an affluent 
of the Tenryu. Those coming from 
the E. may most expeditiously 
reach Takato via Kofu and Kami 
Tsutaki on the high road to Shimo- 
no-Suwa, whence it is a 7 ri walk, 
the path turning off 1. at the vill. 
of Sezawa, 1 ri beyond Kami Tsu- 
taki, and crossing the Nyukasawa- 
toge and Shibiri-toge. Hill scenery 
alternates with park-like stretches 
that recall England. Those from 
the W. reach it from Ina (see p. 230), 
2 ri. Travellers coming from the 
direction of Shimo-no-Suwa may 
also reach Takato from Kanazawa 
on the Koshu Kaido, from which 
village it is a pleasant walk of some 
.3 ri to Midogaito(Iim, Echigo-ya), 
and then 3J ri more to Takato. 
From Takato the road leads due S. 
up the valley of the Mibukawa, 
affording good views of the W. side 
of the Koshu Koma-ga-take, and 
over the Ichinose-tdge (4,450 ft.) to 
Onna-taka 

This hanilet is said to derive its name 
from the fact that the women are here 
the heads of the households. It is also 
stated that if a man from any other place 
marries a woman belonging to this ham- 
let, he is sure soon to droop and die. 

and Ichiba, which is recommended 
as a halting place. Places further 
on where one may stay are Oka- 
wara, (Inn by Imai Takijiro), 
Kamazawa, and the warm sulphur 
baths of Kosliibu. 

The actual ascent takes 11 hrs. 
from Koshibu, being an arduous 
scramble, during the first part of 
which the Koshibu-gawa has to be 
crossed and re-crossed more than a 
score of times. This is followed by 
a hard climb of 2 hrs. or so up the 
steep tree-clad slopes of a spur of 
Akaishi-san, the ascent then lead- 
ing over bare loose rocks of a red- 
dish colour for 2 hrs. more to a 
point where it is necessary to turn 
and go straight up to the final 
arete. This is a moderate climb of 
1 hr., and it requires another hour 



230 



Route 29. — Rapids of the Tenryu-gawa. 



to walk up to the highest point of 
the peak, which affords a fine view 
of most of the high mountains 
of Central Japan. A night has to 
be spent in what the hunter-guides 
call a grand cave, but is a bare 
shelter between two rocks. Water 
is not always easily found on 
the mountain side. About 1 m. 
from the summit is a hollow where 
the climber who wishes to see the 
sunrise might sleep. 

Instead of returning to Takato, it 
might be possible to cross over into 
the valley of the Oigawa, and 
either descend to the Tokaido, or 
strike the head-waters of the Haya- 
kawa across another range (see p. 
225); but the country is rough in 
the extreme. 



EOUTE 29. 

The Eapids of the Tenryu-gawa. 

These rapids, the finest in Japan, 
form a natural route connecting 
the two chief highways of the cen- 
tral portion of the Main Island, — 
the Nakasendo and the Tokaido. 
The village where one embarks is 
called Tokimata (Inn, *Umeno- 
ya). It is reached from the E. by 
travelling along the Nakasendo as 
far as Shimo-no-Suwa on Lake 
Suwa, thence to Matsushima (Inns, 
Mon-ya and Tsuta-ya) on another 
important highway called the Ina 
Kaido, and along that highway to 
Ii<la (Inn, Iwaki-Masu-ya), a large 
and flourishing town, formerly the 
residence of a Daimyo named Hori. 
The portion of the Ina Kaido which 
is included in this route is by no 
means lacking in the picturesque. 
It also brings the traveller into the 
vicinity of the Shinshu Koma-ga- 
take, which may be ascended from 
Akao or from Ina. Those coming 
from the W. along the Nakasendo J 



may leave that highway either at 
Tsumago, whence 3 ri to Hirose, 
3 ri over the Odaira-toge to Odaira 
(also called Ohira-toge and Ohira), 
and 3 ri more to Iida, all on foot ; 
or else at Shiojiri, whence a jinriki- 
sha road leads to Matsushima on 
the Ina Kaido, 5 ri 24 did (13f m.). 

Itinerary, 
SHIMO-NO-SUWA to :— 

Ri. Clio. M.. 

Matsushima .... 6 5 15 

Ina 2 13 6 

Akao 3 6 7f 

lijima 1 31 4J 

IIDA 5 27 14 

TOKIMATA .... 2 — 5 

Total 21 15 52£ 

The best accommodation on the- 
way to Tokimata is at Matsushima 
and at Ina (Inn, Tomi-ya). The 
whole way from Shimo-no-Suwa to 
Tokimata is practicable for jinriki- 
shas and can easily be accomplished 
in two short days ; but the occasional 
roughness of the latter part of the 
route necessitates the taking of two 
jinrikisha-men. The passage by 
boat from Tokimata down to the 
Tokaido generally occupies 12 hrs. 
The total distance travelled by 
water is estimated at 36 ri — say 
90 m. ; — but the latter portion of 
this is along a comparatively slug- 
gish current. The boat does not 
take the traveller actually to the 
Tokaido Hallway. Whether bound 
up or down the line, he alights at 
Nakano-machi, for the station of 
Hamamatsii, 1 ri 28 did distant. 
Some may indeed prefer to alight at 
Ikeda for the station of Nakaiziimi ; 
but this station being a small one, 
few trains stop there. A good 
halting-place on the river is Unna 
(Bin, Ikeda-ya), a resort of pilgrims 
en route for the shrine of Akiha- 
san (see Route 34). 

The charge for a boat in 1893 
was $22, the justification of this 
seemingly high price being the fact 
that it takes from 10 to 12 days to 
tow the boat up stream again. Boats . 



Rapids of the Tenryu-gawa, 



231 



not being always in readiness, it may 
be advisable to write beforehand 
(in Japanese, of course) to the inn- 
keeper at Tokimata to order one 
with 4 boatmen. Travellers are 
also recommended to time their 
movements so as to arrive at Toki- 
mata on the afternoon previous to 
their descent of the rapids. This will 
enable them to make all arrange- 
ments overnight and to start 
early. One should be prepared for 
possible disappointment in the event 
of continued wet weather, when the 
river rises considerably. Nothing 
will induce the boatmen to under- 
take the journey if the water is 
above a certain height. Under 
such circumstances, the alter- 
native return route given below 
may be taken. A spare hour at 
Tokimata can be pleasantly spent 
in visiting the picturesque bridge 
less than 1 ri down the river, at the 
spot where the rough-and-tumble 
part of its course begins. 

The scenery of the Tenryu-gawa 
is most striking. After passing the 
bridge mentioned above, the river 
enters a rocky ravine ; and from this 
point on to Nishinoto, a passage of 
some 6J hrs., is almost one con- 
tinued series of rapids and races. 
Walled in between forest-clad 
mountains that rise abruptly to a 
height of from 1,000 ft. to 2,000 ft., 
the river twists and tears along 
their rocky base, carving for itself a 
channel where there seems no pos- 
sible means of exit. It is in such 
places that the skill of the boat- 
men will be most admired, where 
the boat, which looks as if it must 
be dashed to pieces in another mo- 
ment, is shot round the corner only 
to be whirled on to some new danger 
equally exciting. Fortunately for 
the lover of the picturesque, some 
blasting which was undertaken a 
few years ago with a view to facili- 
tating the transport of produce, 
has had no marked effect in effacing 
the ruggedness of nature. On 
approaching a rapid, the man 
forward beats the bow of the boat 



with his paddle, both as a 
signal to the others and in the 
superstitious belief that it will bring 
good luck. Of rapids properly 
so-called, there are upwards of 
thirty, the finest of which are: 
Yagura (The Turret), near Qshima ; 
Shin-taki (New Cascade), 3 ri be- 
low Mitsushima ; Tahaze (High 
Rapid) ; Chona (Adze), just beyond 
Otani ; Konnyaku (Potato) ; Shira- 
nami (White Waves) ; Iori ga taki 
(Iori's Cascade) ; and Yama-buro 
(Mountain Bath), the grandest 
of all, despite its homely 



In the event of flood or any 
other unforeseen circumstance 
preventing the boat journey down 
the Tenryu-gawa, the traveller may 
strike the Tokaido Railway by 
taking a jinrikisha road called the 
Cliu Uma-kaido, which connects 
lida with Nagoya, 30 ri. The vilL 
of Oslvina, where this road would be 
joined, is 2-J ri from Tokimata and 
2 ri from lida. The chief places 
passed on the way are Nebane, 
Akechi, Tsuruzato, and Seto. 

Nehane {Inn, Sumiyoshi-ya) is a 
great centre of traffic between the 
provinces of Shinsbu and Mikawa, 
the latter sending fish and raw 
cotton, for which Shinsh.ii returns 
tobacco, hemp, and dried persim- 
mons. It is possible to reach Toyo- 
hashi on the Tokaido Railway from 
Nebane by a road, some 16 ri in 
length, which leads via the temple 
of Horaiji. 

Alieclii {Inn, Snmiyoshi-ya),next 
in importance, is a small but 
thriving town, which produces porce- 
lain — chiefly tea-cups and rice-bowls 
of no artistic value. For Seto, a 
much more famous ceramic centre, 
see Route 31. 



232 



Tioute 30. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu. 



KOUTE 30. 

The Mountains of Hida and 
Etchu. 

1. introductory remarks. 2. gifu 
to takayama in hida. 3. taka- 
yama to matsumoto and ueda 
by the hirayu and abo passes. 
norikura andkasa-dake. [nomu- 
gi pass.] 4. yari-ga-take and 
myojin-dake. 5. nagano to to- 
yama over the harinoki pass. 
6. tateyama. 7. toyama to taka- 
yama by the valley of the 
takahara - gawa. 8. kanazawa 
to takayama by the valley of 
the shirakawa. 9. haku-san. 
10. takayama to fukushima on 
the nakasendo. 11. ontake and 
the koma-ga-take of shinshu. 

12. ENA-SAN. 

1. — Introductory Remarks. 

The provinces of Hida and Etchu 
may be conveniently taken together, 
because hemmed in between the 
same high mountain ranges which 
render this region exceptionally diffi- 
cult of access, and have prevented 
it from being much visited even by 
the natives of the surrounding 
provinces. Lying completely be- 
yond the reach of railways and 
modern civilisation, no part of 
Japan has changed so little of late 
years. 

The range bounding these pro- 
vinces on the E. is the most con- 
siderable in the Empire. The only 
one that can compare with it is 
that lying between the Fujikawa 
and Tenryu-gawa (see Route 28). 
Many of the peaks are streaked 
with snow until the early autumn, 
while in some of the recesses and 
gorges, where it is partially screened 
from the sun's rays, the snow 
never entirely disappears. Extend- 
ing almost due N. and S. for a 
length of GO or 70 miles, with a 



breadth of from 5 to 10 miles, this 
range forms a well-nigh impene- 
trable barrier to communication from 
the S. and E. It consists chiefly of 
granite, overlaid in places with 
igneous rocks. Norikura and Tate- 
yama are of volcanic origin. The 
highest and most conspicuous of 
the numerous peaks, beginning at 
the N., are as follows: 

FT. 

Tateyama 9,500 

Yari-ga-take 10,000 

Myojin-dake 10,100 

Norikura 9,800 

Ontake 9,800 

Haku-san 8,900 

Koma-ga-take 10,300 

The lower flanks of the chain are 
clothed with forests, in which the 
most common trees are beeches and 
oaks. Conifers also are plentiful. 
Among the wild animals of this 
region may be mentioned bears, 
deer, the goat-faced antelope, and 
two kinds of boar. The streams 
abound with trout. The scanty 
population consists of hardy, simple 
folk, supporting themselves by hunt- 
ing, wood-cutting, and charcoal 
burning. Their staple food is buck- 
wheat and millet, while barley, 
hemp, beans, and mulberry- leaves 
form the other chief productions of 
the valleys. 

It will thus be seen that the 
mountaineer has but hard fare to 
expect, and will be wise to provide 
himself with as many tins of meat, 
preserved milk, etc., as can be pack- 
ed into a small compass. The re- 
commendation is advisedly framed 
in these terms ; for much luggage 
cannot be carried, owing to the 
general scarcity of men to carry it. 
Needless to add that the accom- 
modation is often of the roughest. 
Only at Toyama the capital of 
Etchu, at Takayama the capital of 
Hida, at Matsumoto, and at a few 
other of the larger towns, is the 
ordinary standard of Japanese pro- 
vincial comfort attained. Should 
the varying efficiency of the carry- 



General Information. Gifu to Tahayaina. 



233 



ing companies which undertake to 
forward goods from one portion of 
Japan to another permit, compara- 
tive comfort and plenty may be 
ensured by sending boxes of food, 
extra clothing, books, and whatever 
else may be required, ahead to the 
chief towns through which one ex- 
pects to pass. It is, however, 
always advisable to leave a good 
margin of time, as the Japanese are 
not to be relied on for punctuality 
or despatch. 

For practical convenience' sake, 
four mountains have been included 
in this route that do not topograph- 
ically belong to it — Haku-san, On- 
take, the Koma-ga-take of Shin- 
shu, and Ena-san, because, though 
not actually forming part of the 
same range, they stand not far from 
it, and are likely to interest the 
same class of travellers and to be 
visited during the same trip. 

The district treated of in this 
route may be best approached from 
one of three sides, viz. from Ueda 
or Nagano on the Karuizawa-Nao- 
etsu Railway ; from Gifu on the 
Tokaido Railway ; or from the Sea 
of Japan, on which last side To- 
yama is the natural starting-point. 
The first-mentioned approach is to 
be preferred by travellers from 
Yokohama, the last two by those 
coming from Kobe. Matsumoto and 
Fukushima make excellent centres 
for excursions among these moun- 
tains. 

A road is in course of construction 
from Shimashima over the summit 
of the Tokugo-toge, a pass which 
crosses the range running parallel 
to the great ridge of which 
Yari-ga-take forms the highest point. 
Ultimately it will head down to the 
Azusa-gawa, and then probably, 
crossing that river, come out on the 
Hirayu side of the chain. Should 
this be the case, it wonld afford a 
capital high-level route from Shi- 
nano into Hida, and greatly facili- 
tate travel through the wildest 
district of Japan. 



2. — From Gifu on the Tokaido 
Railway to Takayama in Hida. 

Itinerary. 



GIFU to :— 


Ri. 


Cho 


M. 


Akutami 


.. 2 


6 


^ 


SEKI 


.. 2 


4 


H 


Nakanoho .... 


.. 5 


1 


121 


Kamibuchi 


.. 1 


33 


4f 


Kanayama .... 


.. 3 


13 


8J 


Shimohara .... 




14 


1 


Hoido 


.. 3 


— 


% 


Gero 


.. 3 


18 


8* 


Hagiwara 


.. 2 


4 


5£ 


Ossaka 


.. 3 


1 


n 


Kukuno 


.. 3 


32 


n 


TAKAYAMA .. 


.. 3 


4 


n 


Total 


.. 33 


22 


82 



This road, called the Hida Kaido, 
is practicable for jinrikishas through- 
out, though there are some bad 
portions. The best accommodation 
is at Seki (Inn, * Yorozu-ya), at 
Shimohara, and at Gero, also called 
Yunoshima, where there are mineral 
springs. The tame character of the 
landscape during the early part 
of the journey, lying within the pro- 
vince of Mino, is exchanged for 
scenes of entrancing beauty on cross- 
ing over into the province of Hida 
near Kanayama, which continue 
all the rest of the way. From here 
to Kttkuno, the traveller wends for 
forty miles along the beautifully 
wooded valley of the Hida-gawa 
(called Masuda-gawa and Adanogo- 
gawa further on), through a succes- 
sion of rocky ravines where the road 
clings to the precipices that over- 
hang the foaming water. Curiously 
enough, one of the finest parts of 
the route has received the ill- sound- 
ing name of Jigohu (" Hell "), ap- 
parently by reason of the awe which 
it has inspired in native beholders. 
Specially grand and rugged is the 
view at the confluence of the Ossaka- 
gawa with the main river. The hill 
between Kukuno and Takayama is 
called the Miya-toge, from a very 
ancient Shinto temple, the chief 
one of the province. It stands r., in 



234 



Route 30. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu. 



a beautiful grove on the way down. 
Descending into a small plain, we 
soon enter 

Takayam a ( Inn, * Taniga - y a) . 
This, the capital of Hida, is divided 
into three main parts, called respec- 
tively Ichi-no-machi, Ni-no-machi, 
and San-no-machi. The shops are 
poor. A good panorama of the 
town and neighbouring mountains 
can be had from Shiroyama, a hill 
close by on which a castle formerly 
stood. It is only 10 min. climb. 

3. — From Takayama to Matsumoto 
and to ueda on the karuizawa- 
Naoetsu Railway by the Hira- 
yu and Abo Passes. Norikura 
and Kasa-dake. [Nomugi Pass.] 

Itinerary. 
TAKAYAMA to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Matsunoki 15 1 

Hachi-ga-machi . . 1 3 2| 

Otani 1 — 2 j 

Hiomo 1 17 3| 

Kute 1 28 4| 

HIRAYU 2 8 5 J 

Top of Abo-toge . . 2 — 5 
Descent to Azusa- 

gawa 2 — 5 

Top of Hinoki-toge. 1 — 2J 

Onogawa . . , 1 — 2£ 

Kumanosawa .... 3 25 9 

SHIMASHIMA .. 2 18 6 

Niimura 3 18 8| 

MATSUMOTO.... 1 18 3J 

Total 25 6 61 J 



Jinrikisbas can generally be taken 
for a distance of 4 ri out of Taka- 
yama, and again in the Matsumoto 
plain after passing Kumanosawa. 

Leaving the E. end of Takayama, 
the road traverses the vill. of Matsu- 
noki, where a rope stretched across 
the valley testifies to an ancient 
superstition. According to the date 
at which the weather causes this 
rope to snap, omens are drawn for 
the crops of the ensuing twelve 
month. It is replaced yearly 
on the 7th day of -the 7th moon. 
This spot is one of the " Eight 



Views" of the province of Hida. 
At the top of the Tete-zaka, before 
descending to Hachi-ga-machi, the 
summits of Yari-ga-take, Kasadake, 
Norikura, and Ontake come in view. 

Accommodation may be had at 
various temples between Takayama 
and Hiomo, after which Hatahoko 
is the only halting place for the 
night until we reach Hirayu. The 
first part of the way is extremely 
picturesque, and the road good as 
far as Hiomo, beyond which it 
dwindles to a mere pathway. At Kute 
commences the ascent of the Hirayu 
Pass, which, lies through a dense 
forest of beech, fir, and oak for a 
little more than 1 ri. The descent 
on the other side, also 1 ri, is 
very steep, down to the hollow be- 
tween high mountains where nest- 
les the little hamlet of 

Hiraysi (Inn by Emon Saburo). 
This place is frequented by the 
people of the province for the sake 
of its chalybeate hot spring. Hirayu 
forms the best head-quarters for 
those desirous of scaling Norikura 
to the S. and Kasadake to the N.W. 

[Hirayu may also be reached by 
following the Takahara-gawa 
from Funatsu (see p. 240) nearly 
all the way to its source. Ga- 
mada, for the ascent of Kasa- 
dake, 8 ri from Funatsu, may 
be reached in the same way. 
Gamada is picturesquely situat- 
ed, and boasts hot sulphur 
baths.] 

Ascent of Norikura. 

The way from Hirayu leads past 
a magnificent cascade over 200 ft. 
high, formed by the Takahara-gawa 
near its source, and through some 
Mines (Kozan) 2 hrs. from Hirayu, 
where it may be advisable to spend 
the night, so as to make an early 
start unless indeed the mountainer 
prefer to arrange his expedition so 
as to sleep at the Murodo hnt near 
the summit, mentioned further on. 
Though the mines lie at an altitude 
of 7,000 ft., work is carried on all 



Ascent of Norikura. 



235 



the year round. The annual output 
is about 150,000 lbs. of copper and 
2,500 lbs. of silver. The ascent be- 
gins, if one may say to, by a drop of 
several hundred feet down a steep 
shale slope to a torrent, whence it is a 
rough-and-tumble scramble through 
the forest. Emerging from this, 
the climb is over rocks and snow. A 
charming lake surrounded by rugged 
peaks, and some natural caves are in- 
teresting objects passed on the way. 
Still further on — about 5 hrs. from 
the mines — is a hut called the Muro- 
do. The final climb leads over lava 
blocks and scoriae, ending at the 
small shrine of Asahi Gongen on 
the northernmost and highest peak 
of the mountain. Norikura is an 
old volcano, the peak being really 
one of the sides of the crater from 
which extensive lava-flows formerly 
poured. The view should embrace 
all the great peaks of the Japanese 
Alps — granite giants, which unfor- 
tunately are but too often veiled in 
rain or mist. The return to Hira} 7 u 
occupies about 6 hrs. 

[Norikura may also be ascended 
from the vill. of Onogawa on 
the E. side. But as the climb 
up and down is likely to prove 
too much for one day, the best 
plan is to spend the night either 
at a sleeping hut 4,800 ft. high 
beside a small stream abound- 
ing in excellent trout, or at 
the Murodo above-mentioned, 
as the_ last part of the ascent 
from Onogawa coincides with 
that from Hirayu.] 

(The grey cliffs and shining snow- 
slopes of Kasadake form a striking 
picture to one looking down the nar- 
row valley to the N.W. of Hirayu. 
This mountain is believed to have 
never been ascended by Europeans, 
and even the Geological Survey Map 
omits to give its height. The na- 
tives, however, assert that it can be 
climbed from the hamlet of Gamada, 
7J m. from Hirayu, see previous 
page.) 



Few walks of 30 miles are to be 
found in the whole of Japan, com- 
parable for wild and varied pic- 
turesqueness to that from Hirayu 
to Shimashima over the Abo-toge 
and Hinoki-toge. On the way up the 
former there is charming sylvan 
scenery with moss and ferns in abund- 
ance, also glorious views 1. of Yari- 
ga-take and Kasadake, and of Haku- 
san to the S.W. After gaining the 
summit of the pass, 6,400 ft. high, 
which forms the boundary between 
the provinces of Hida and Shinshu, 
the descent leads through a forest as 
yet untouched by the woodman's 
axe; but there are several resting 
places suitable for a midday halt. At 
length, far down on the r., we see 
the steam rising from the valley in 
which lie the hot springs of Shira- 
hone ; and then the strong current 
of the Azusa-gawa has to be crossed 
on a couple of pine-trees felled for 
the purpose. The top of the Hinoki- 
toge is reached about 1 hr. before 
getting to 

OllO^awa {Inn by Okuta Kiichi), 
a small vill. prettily situated on 
the banks of the Maegawa, an 
affluent of the Azusa-gawa, at a 
height of 3,300 ft. The gorge below 
Onogawa, walled in by densely wood- 
ed mountains, is inexpressibly grand 
and beautiful. The path clings or 
should cling to the sides of the living; 
rock, for at times portions of it 
slip down into the gulf below. 
After Shimashima, the mountains 
open out to form the Matsumoto 
plain. Jinrikishas may be had by 
sending into Matsumoto, though 
they can sometimes be got at 
Murasaki, about half-way. For 

Shimasliima and Matsumoto 
see p. 206. From Matsumoto, the 
station of Ueda on the Karuizawa- 
Naoetsu Railway can, under favour- 
able circumstances, be reached by 
basha in 8 hrs. After heavy rains, 
bad roads may make the journey 
half as long again. 

[An alternative way from Taka- 
yama to Matsumoto is over the 



236 



Route 30. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu. 



Nomugi Pass. The itinerary is 
as follows : — 

TAKAYAMA to :— 

Ri. Clio. M. 

Kabuto 3 1 7 J 

Kibyu-dani . . 2 31 7 

Naka-no-shuku 1 13 3£ 

NOMUGI .... 3 23 9 

Kawaura .... 3 — 7J 

Yoriaido 2 18 6 

Nyu-yama .... 2 — 5 

Inekoki 18 1J 

SHIMASHIMA 1 — 2J 

Niimura 3 18 8J 

MATSUMOTO 1 18 3f 



Total .... 24 32 61 



Nomugi and Shimashima are 
the best places to stop at on 
the way.] 

4. — Yari-ga-take and Myojtn- 

DAKE. 

Yari-ga-take, lit. Spear Peak, is 
most easily reached from the Shin- 
shu side via Ueda on the Karui- 
zawa-Naoetsu Railway, Matsumoto, 
and Shimashima (see p. 206), 
where guides can be engaged. The 
first part of the way lies along a 
lovely valley in which, at a distance 
of about 4 m. from Shimashima, 
stands a new mineral bath-house 
called Furotaira. The path ulti- 
mately crosses the steep Tokitgo-toge, 
7,000 ft., between Nabekamuri-yama 
on the N., and Kasumi-ga-take on 
the S. The Tokugo sleeping but, 
4,950 ft., on the far side of the pass, 
is grandly situated in the forest on 
the bank of the Azusa-gawa, at a 
distance of some 7 hrs. on foot from 
Shimashima. Opposite it rises 
the magnificent granite peak of 
Myojin-dake, which in form and 
position resembles the Aiguille du 
Dru near Chamonix. From the 
Tokugo hut, the climb to the summit 
will take about 9 or 10 hrs., the 
distance being calculated at 8 or 9 
ri, though the rough nature of the 
ground to be crossed makes such 
calculations of comparatively little 



use. The descent to the Akasaka 
no Iwa-goya will occupy a good 
walker 2J hrs. or so, fair shelter 
under the lee of an overhanging 
rock, and plenty of good water and 
firewood supplying his needs for a 
night's bivouac there. 

[An alternative way up, branch- 
ing off 5 m. beyond the Tokugo 
hut, is via the Yokoo-dani. 
Some consider this shorter. In 
any case it is more difficult ; 
but the scenery is savagely 
grand, and the torrent need not 
be so often crossed. A natural 
cave about j m. up the valley 
gives good shelter if needed. 
The ordinary route is rejoined 
at the base of a spur thrown 
out from the cliffs of Hodaka- 
yama, a serrated ridge which a 
broken arete connects with 
Yari-ga-take.] 

The route lies alternately up one 
side or other of the bed or banks 
of this torrent for about 3 hrs. On 
the 1. the steep, craggy, granitic 
precipices of Myojin-dake, streaked 
with slopes of shining snow, rise to 
a height of over 10,000 ft,, while on 
the r. are tamer wooded hills. Noble 
mountains are these precipitous 
masses of granite, surpassing in 
wiMness any to be seen elsewhere 
in Japan, their curiously steep forms 
being not unlike some of the ideal 
crags depicted in Chinese art. Per- 
haps there is no part of the country 
in so truly primeval a state — with 
the exception of some districts 
of Yamato — as this torrent valley 
in the heart of the Shinano-Hida 
range, whose sole frequenters are 
hunters seeking bears or the 
sheep-faced antelope. At an eleva- 
tiou of 6,400 ft., a rude shed 
called Akasaka no Iwa-goya, a 
camping place for hunters, is pass- 
ed ; and just above here the forest 
ceases and the first snow-field is 
crossed. Hence upward the road 
lies mostly over snow ; but just below 
the summit, between the peaks, the 



Ascent of Yari-ga-take and My ojin-dahe. 



237 



route winds up and among huge 
bare masses of rock piled in inde- 
scribable confusion. From the irre- 
gular resting of some of these crags 
so-called "caves" are formed, 
wherein the hunters take up their 
abode whilst watching for bears. 
Ptarmigan are common here. After a 
stiff climb up snow and over debris, 
and a rather dangerous scramble 
up one side of the peak, we gain 
the summit, which consists of a 
short narrow ridge of broken rock, 
the tip of the " Spear," nearly per- 
pendicular on all sides but the S. E. 
" The view " says Rev. Walter 
Weston, " as one looks straight down 
into the wild and desolate valleys 
that stretch away from the base of 
the mountain, is most impressive. 
To the north lie the almost unknown 
peaks of the range between the pro- 
vinces of Shinshu and Etchu, which 
stretches far towards the Sea of 
Japan. On the west stands the 
rugged form of Kasadake, which 
we think would afford a grand climb 
from the valley which separates it 
from us. Southwards, the eye rests 
on the nearer giants of this group, 
Hodaka-yama (Myojin-dake) and the 
massive double-topped Norikura, 
and beyond these Ontake with the 
Koma-ga-take of Shinshu on its 
eastern side. To the south-east, but 
farther off, stands the great mass of 
mountains on the borders of Shin- 
shu and Koshu, the most pro- 
minent peaks being Shirane-san, 
Akaishi-san, and Koma-ga-take. 
But most striking of all is the state- 
ly cone of Fuji rising with its ma- 
jestic sweep supreme above all else, 
at a distance, as the crow flies, of 
over 85 miles. To enumerate all 
the summits to be seen from the 
point on which we stand, would be 
to give a list of all the grandest 
mountains in Japan. Only the haze 
and clouds to the north-west prevent 
our view from embracing the sea in 
the Bay of Toyama, so that nearly 
the whole width of the central por- 
tion of the Empire is included in this 
magnificent prospect." 



The descent will occupy a good 
walker 2^ hrs. to the Akasaka no 
Iwa-goya, and thence 12 J hrs. to 
Shimashima. 

The ascent of Myojin-dake, as 
well as that of Yari-ga-take, may be 
made from the Tokugo hut. 

" This mountain, whose highest 
point also goes by the names 
of Hodaka-yama and Yokoo-dake, is 
one of the most striking peaks in 
Japan, its snow-seamed granite cliffs 
rising 5,000 ft. sheer from the nar- 
row valley of the Azusa-gawa. For 
a short distance the line of ascent — 
there is no path to follow — lies in 
the direction of Yari-ga-take, and 
then turns abruptly to the 1. through 
the forest which clothes the lower 
slopes of the mountain. A very 
rough scramble through bamboo 
grass and dense undergrowth at 
length brings one out on to loose 
rocks partly concealed by low shrubs, 
after which several sharp ridges 
have to be surmounted and nearly 
perpendicular cliffs traversed by 
holding on to bushes and creepers. 
Eventually we emerge into a wild 
ravine, and a long climb up the 
loose and gradually steepening rocks 
leads to the foot of a snow-slope, 
lying at an angle of about 40°, at 
an altitude 'of 8,500 ft. A stiff climb 
up this, and then a still rougher 
scramble up large masses of smooth 
rock land us on the main arSte, from 
which rise the various peaks of the 
mountain. The highest is seen on 
the left, and a somewhat difficult 
ascent places the climber on the 
topmost summit, which is com- 
posed of broken blocks of very hard 
close-grained granite. The distant 
view is similar to that from Yari- 
ga-take. The ascent will take some 
6 hrs. exclusive of halts, the des- 
cent about 1 hr. less." 

5. — From Nagano to Toyama in 
Etchu over the Harinoki 

Pass. 

The greater portion of the follow- 
ing itinerary and of the description 
given below must be regarded as 



238 



Route 30. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu. 



approximate only, the difficulty of 
keeping communication open across 
so rugged a country being pecu- 
liarly great. There is no possibility 
of crossing the pass before the yama- 
biraki, or "mountain opening," on 
the 20th June. Even during the 
summer months communication is 
often entirely interrupted, and none 
but the most experienced moun- 
taineers can hope to succeed in 
forcing a path for themselves. 
Difficulty is sometimes experienced 
in obtaining the services of hunters 
to act as guides, the Harinoki-toge 
beiug now seldom crossed even by 
the natives, and the huts former- 
ly existing on the way being 
nearly all destroyed, whilst the 
central portion of the original track 
has, owing to avalanches and land- 
slips, been practically effaced. 
Still, the route remains one of the 
grandest, as well as one of the most 
arduous, mountaineering expedi- 
tions in Japan. 

Itinerary. 

■*NAGANO to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Sasadaira 3 18 8£ 

Shimmachi 2 18 6 

Obara 1 — 2J 

Hashigi 1 18 3| 

So 1 — 2 \ 

Omachi 2 30 7 

Noguchi 18 \\ 

Shirazawa 2 18 6 

Maruishi-bashi 1 2 2 J 

Top of Harinoki 

Pass 1 21 3| 

Futamata 24 If 

Kurobe 2 11 5f 

Top of Zaragoe 1 7 3 

Yumoto 2 — 5 

Yanagiwara 31 2 

Seko 1 6 2f 

Hara 3 — 7 J 

Omi 1 — 2i 

Kamidaki 3 — 7£ 

TOYAMA 3 — 11 

Total 36 6 88J 

Jinrikishas can be taken as far 
as the hamlet of Koichi, where the 



Saigawa is joined and from which 
point the scenery becomes pretty. 
One ri before reaching 

Sliimmachi (Inn, Kome-ya), the 
road passes over the Yanoshiri- 
toge, a steep ascent of 18 cho. 

The descent to the hamlet of Anadaira 
on the other side was the scene of a great 
convulsion in the year 1847, when, owing 
to an earthquake, the river was dammed 
up by the fall of masses of earth from the 
hills on both sides. A small cascade 
marks the spot where the waters after- 
wards broke through. Boats formerly 
went all the way down from Matsumoto 
to Na.gano, but their passage has ever 
since been interrupted at Anadaira. 

Omsiclli (Inn, Yama-cho) presents 
an old-world appearance, owing to 
its flat-roofed wooden houses like 
the cottages in the Alps, with heavy 
stones to keep down the shingling. 
At Noguchi, where comfortable 
quarters can be obtained at the 
house of the Kucho, enquiries should 
be made concerning the state of 
the road, and stout-limbed guides 
engaged for the ascent of the Hari- 
noki Pass. Very little shelter is to 
be found before reaching Kurobe, 
though just below the summer limit 
of the snow on the pass, about 1 ri 
from the top, at an elevation of 
some 5,500 ft., a rude camping place 
called Ushi-goya can be utilised for 
a bivouac. As it is not feasible to 
reach Kurobe from Noguchi in 1 
day, the traveller must put up 
with this, and on the following day 
a short but extremely rough scram- 
ble over the snow and down the 
steep mountain side and the torrent 
bed on the W. of the pass will bring 
him to Kurobe, where the second 
night must be spent. The summer 
limit of the snow on the Harinoki 



Or NAGANO to:— Bi. Cho. M. 

Sasadaira 3 18 8£ 

Nakajo 2 — 5 

Takebu 2 — 5 

Perami 2 — 5 

OMACHI 3 18 8| 

Total 13 — 31^ 



This is the postal route, but that given 
in the text is more picturesque. 



Harinoki Pass. Ascent of Tateyama. 



239 



Pass is reached about 1 ri from the 
top, at an elevation of 5,300 ft. 

From the summit (7,700 ft.), Fuji 
is seen as in a vignette between the 
ranges of Yatsu-ga-take and Koma- 
ga-take, the other most noteworthy 
feature of the view being Yari-ga- 
take. 

[A peak called Goroku-dake, 9,100 
ft., may be ascended from this 
point; but there is no shelter 
to sleep in.] 

The traveller now leaves the pro- 
vince of Shinshu for that of Etchii, 
and will notice, both on the summit 
and on the way down, the alder- 
trees (hari-no-ki, or han-no-ki) 
which give their name to the pass. 
The valley on this side is known as 
the Harinoki-sawa. 

Knrobe consists of but one dilapi- 
dated hut on the banks of the swift 
Kurobe-gawa, which has to be ford- 
ed before the hut can be reached. 
From here to Ryuzan-jita is another 
short but arduous scramble over the 
Nukui-dani-toge and the Zara-goe. 
The valley of the latter pass, filled 
with shining slopes of snow topped 
with precipitous cliffs, is very love- 
ly, whilst the view from the summit 
is magnificently wild. All around, 
enormous landslips and confused 
masses of rock, burled down from 
the tops of the mountains to the 
gorge below, bear witness to the 
terribly destructive forces by which 
this part of the countiy has been 
ravaged. The rocky mass in front 
is one of the slopes of Tateyama, 
while on the 1. a view of the soft 
plains of Toyama and of the sea 
beyond contrasts agreeably with the 
savage aspect of the nearer land- 
scape. The Jinzugawa is seen in 
the plain wending its way towards 
the Sea of Japan, and the blue out- 
line of the provinces of Kaga and 
Noto fills up the distant back- 
ground. The descent is through a 
wilderness of rocks and stones, and 
includes the most difficult portions 
•of the whole expedition. Here and 
there sulphur fumes are seen rising 



from the mountain side, and short- 
ly before reaching Ryuzan-jita a 
curious circular lake (Mago-ike) of 
hot sulphurous water is passed on 
the 1. hand. 

Ymnoto 9 or Ryuzan-jita, com- 
monly called Tateyama Onsen on 
account of its hot springs, stands in 
a desolate waste, — a chaos of large 
boulders, sand, and stones, left by the 
great earthquake of 1858. On quit- 
ting this place, the path continues 
down a grandly rugged gorge, called 
Dashiwara-dani at its upper end. 
Before descending to Kamidaki, the 
best general view of Tateyama and 
of the range forming the boundary 
of the province of Etchti is obtained. 
The names of the highest summits, 
in order from the 1., are as follows : 
— Tsurugi-dake, Kodake, Go-hon- 
sha, Jddo, Tombi, Kuwasaki, and 
Arimine-Yakushi. It is sometimes 
possible to get jinrikishas at Kami- 
daki. The road onward crosses a 
well-cultivated plain, and joins the 
Hokkoku Kaido a few did before 
reaching 

Toyama (see end of Rte. 33). 

6. — Tateyama. 

Tateyama is the collective name 
given to the lofty summits which 
stand on the E. border of the pro- 
vince of Etchu, and which, toge- 
ther with the jagged peak of Tsuru- 
gi-dake, form the N. extremity of 
the greatest range of mountains in 
Japan. The highest of the peaks 
(Go-honsha) rises some 9,500 ft. 
above the level of the sea. The main 
ascent leads up the W. side of the 
mountain from the hamlet of Ashi- 
kura (accommodation at the Shinto 
priest's house), which can be reach- 
ed from Toyama via Kamidaki. 
The distances are : Toyama to 
Kamidaki, 3 ri 20 cho by jinrikisha ; 
thence on foot to Ashikura, 3 ri 8 
cho, — making 16J m. altogether. 

The way up the mountain is 
arduous in parts, nor is there any 
shelter, except two or three wretch- 
ed huts, to be got during the whole 
distance of 20 m. from Ashikura to 



240 



Route 30. — Mountains of Hi-da and Etchu. 



the Murodo, 2J m. from the sum- 
rait. The Murodo itself is a better 
and larger hut, which is opened for 
the accommodation of pilgrims 
from the 20th July to the 10th 
September. No bedding is procur- 
able, and little food except rice can 
be depended upon. 

[In a valley situated about 6 cho 
to the 1. of the Murodo are 
the remarkable solfataras of 
Ojigoku ("Big Hell"). The 
whole valley seems alive with 
pools of boiling mud and sul- 
phur.] 

From the Murodo hut to the 
highest summit, whose name of Go- 
Iwnsha comes from the picturesque 
temple with which it is crowned, 
is 1 hr. climb, partly across 
snow-slopes and then up the 
rocky peak forming the top of the 
mountain. At the end, a truly 
superb panorama unfolds itself be- 
fore the spectator's gaze. The num- 
ber of mountains to be distinguished 
is extraordinarily great. To the 
extreme 1., looking eastward, are 
seen Myoko-zan, Myogi-san, and 
Yoneyama in Echigo, Nantai-zan 
near Nikko, and Togakushi-san and 
Asama-yama in Shinshu. Towards 
the S. rises the range of Yatsu-ga- 
take, with the isolated peak of 
Tateshina-yama, beyond which are 
seen Fuji and the high peaks of 
Shirane and Koma-ga-take in K6- 
shu. Further S. again are Koma- 
ga-take and Ontake in Shinshu ; 
Yari-ga-take, Norikura, and Kasa- 
dake, with in closer proximity Yaku- 
shi-dake — all in Hida. To the S. W. 
is Haku-san on the borders of Kaga. 
Below, to the W., lie the plains of 
Kaga and Etchu, the latter water- 
ed by the rivers Jinzu ajid Jogwan- 
ji, while to the N. the view is 
bounded by the Sea of Japan. 

Tbe traveller who succeeds in 
reaching Kyuzan-jita will find the 
climb from there up Tateyama far 
preferable to that from Ashikura ; 
for though the first part of the as- 



cent is very steep, the whole expedi- 
tion can be comfortably accomplish- 
ed in one day, if the start be made 
at daybreak, and thus the night need 
not be spent in the crowded and 
uncomfortable Murodo, with its 
host of pilgrims and fleas. A little 
more than 1 hr. climb up the cliffs 
by the pilgrims' path just opposite 
the baths lands us on the edge of a 
wide plateau called Mida-ga-hara r 
the view from near the top of the 
ridge being exceptionally fine. The 
track is then fairiy level, though 
generally wet and slippery for some 
distance, and ultimately falls in with 
the path leading from Ashikura 
to the summit. 

7. — From Toyama to Takayama in 
Hida by the Valley of the. 
t ak ah ar a-ga wa . 

Itinerary. 

TOYAMA to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Sasazu ) 4 — 9| 

Kamidera a PP rox " 5 _ 12| 

Mozumi j imate - 3 - 4 

FUNATSU 4 6 lo| 

Furukawa 5 26 14 

TAKAYAMA 3 28 9J 

Total 25 24 62| 



This picturesque route is general- 
ly practicable for jinrikishas. The 
best accommodation is at Mozumi, 
at Fnnatsn (Inns, Yorozu-ya, Wata- 
nabe), and at Furukaiva (Bin, Ya- 
tsu-san). Before reaching Kami- 
dera, close to the boundary of the 
provinces of Etchu and Hida, the 
Jinzti-gawa curves away to the r., 
while the road to Funatsu follows 
the Takahara-gawa, one of its 
affluents. The view at the forking 
of the rivers is most picturesque, 
and the whole way hence to 
Funatsu ruggedly grand. A silver 
mine (Shikawa Ginzan) is in 
operation not far from Funatsu. 
Between this town and Furu- 
kawa one crosses the Akasaka- 
toge, 3,850 ft. above the sea, and 
1,600 ft. above Funatsu. On the 



Valley of the Shirakaiua. Hahusan. 



241 



way down there is a beautiful view 
across the Yokamachi valley and 
the low pine-clad hills separating 
this valley from that of the Miya- 
gawa and the plain surrounding the 
provincial capital, 
Takayama (see p. 234). 

8. — Fkom Kanazawa in Kaga to 
Takayama in Hida by the 
Valley of the Skirakawa. 

Itinerary. 

KANAZAWA to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Futamata 2 28 6J 

FUKUMITSU .... 2 26 6f 

Jo-ga-hana 1 8 3 

Shimo Nashi 4 4 10 

Nishi Akao 2 26 6f 

Tsubaki-hara 3 10 8 

Iijima 2 18 6 

Hirase 2 30 7 

Kurodani 3 27 9J 

Mumai 1 33 4| 

Kami Odori 2 18 6 

Maki-ga-hora 2 26 6f 

Mikka-machi 10 f 

TAKAYAMA 1 20 3f 



Total 34 32 85i 



This route is not practicable for 
jinrikishas except between Fuku- 
mitsu and J6-ga-hana, and again 
between Mikka-machi and Taka- 
yama. Jinrikishas are always to 
be found at Fukumitsu, but at 
Mikka-machi they cannot be de- 
pended upon. Horses are not pro- 
curable in the valley of the Shira- 
kawa, and baggage is transported 
by cattle or on coolies' backs. 
Fairly good accommodation can be 
had at the towns of Fukumitsu and 
Jo-ga-hana, and accommodation 
which is at least passable at most of 
the villages. The scenery is delight- 
fully picturesque, and there are 
many magnificent distant views. 

9. — Haku-san. 

This celebrated mountain, stand- 
ing on the borders of the four pro- 
vinces of Echizen, Kaga, Hida, and 



Mino, may be ascended either from 
Kanazawa or from Fukui. The 
itinerary by the former route to 
Yumoto, a vill. at the base is as 
follows : 

KANAZAWA (Ohashi) to :— 

Ri. Clio. M. 

Tsurugi 4 7 10J 

Onnawara 5 29 14 J 

Ushikubi 4 4 10 

YUMOTO (about) 5 — 12J 



Total 19 4 12i 



Fair accommodation at Tsurugi 
(Inn, Ebi-ya) ; better at 

Yumoto (Inn, Yamada-ya). The 
road is practicable for jinrikishas 
over a sandy road only as far as Tsu- 
rugi. From Ushikubi onwards the 
scenery becomes very picturesque. 
Yumoto, noted for its hot springs, is 
completely shut in by densely wood- 
ed hills, and is deserted in winter 
by its inhabitants, who do not return 
till the beginning of June. There 
are several other sulphur springs on 
the mountain side. The ascent 
and descent of Haku-san from 
Yumoto make an easy day's ex- 
pedition, the climb to the Muro- 
do hut occupying a good walker 
3 hrs., and the steep clamber thence 
to the shrine on the top (Go-honsha), 
25 min. The glorious view from 
the summit includes Tateyama 
N.E., Yari-ga-take E.N.E., Nori- 
kura a little to the S. of E., Yatsu- 
ga-take and the Koma-ga-take of 
Ko.shu in the dim distance, Ontake 
E.S.E., and the Koma-ga-take of 
Shinshu. In the immediate neigh- 
bourhood are Bessan on the S. and 
Onanji on the N., which, with the 
central aod highest peak called 
Gozen-mine, together constitute the 
three summits of Haku-san. To 
the N.W. rises the lofty top of 
Shaka-ga-take. On the E. side is 
Tsurugi or "the Sword," so called 
from its pointed rocky peaks, and 
on the W. the Oku-no-in. Two 
tarns lie at the bottom of what are 
apparently ancient craters. 



242 



Route 30. — Mountains of Hida and Etchii. 



The itinerary from Fukui to Yu- 
moto is as follows : 

FUKUI (Arahashi) to :— 

Ri. Clio. M. 

Matsuoka 2 4 5J 

Komyoji 1 22 3| 

Katsuyama 4 — 9 J 

Kogo 2 8 5J 

Hayashi's farm . . 2 32 7 

Top of Ohara-toge.. 1 18 3| 

Mizutani 2 — 5 

YUMOTO 18 3 

Total 17 20 42| 



Jinrikishas go as far as Katsu- 
yama (Inn, Izumi-ya), which offers 
the only fair accommodation on 
the road. The scenery is wild and 
picturesque. 

10. — From Takayama in Hida to 
fukushima on the nakasendo. 

Itinerary. 

TAKAYAMA to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Kabuto 3 1 7£ 

Kibyu-dani 2 31 7 

Naka-no-shuku . . 1 13 3| 

Kami-no-hara 1 18 3§ 

Adanogo 1 5 2| 

Hiwada 2 20 6J 

Kami Nishino 3 — 7J 

Suegawa 2 1 5 

Kurokawa 3 — 7 J 

FUKUSHIMA.... 1 — 21 

Total 21 17 52i 



As far as Nishino, baggage is 
generally carried by women, some- 
times by cattle. Though either 
means of transport is objectionable, 
there is apparently no other alter- 
native. Beautiful views occur all 
along the route. The best accom- 
modation is at Kami Nishino, 
whence it is possible to ascend 
Ontake, a climb of 7 ri; but the 
way is a difficult one, and either of 
those given below is to be pre- 
ferred. 



11. — Ontake and the Koma-ga- 
take of shinshu. 

Oil take*, one of the loftiest 
mountains in Japan, is considered 
the most sacred next to Fuji, and 
yearly attracts crowds of pilgrims. 

The phenomena of trance and so-called 
divine possession, often to be witnessed 
on this holy peak, have been described by 
Mr. Percival Lowell in Vol. XXII. of the 
Transactions of the Asiatic Society of Japan. 

Dr. Rein, writing from a very different 
point of view, says: "Ontake is a long 
ridge running N. and S., on the summit 
of which are eight larger and several 
smaller craters. Six of the former lie in 
a l'ow along the ridge, while the other 
two are situated on the N. W. side towards 
Hida. They are more or less circular in 
form, from' 800 to 1,000 metres (2,624 to 
3,280 ft.) in circumference, and with one 
exception have no great depth. Their 
walls have fallen in in many places, and 
access to most of them is thereby facili- 
tated. Their relative age can be easily 
recognised by the weathering of the dole- 
ritic lava, but still better by the manner 
in which vegetation has planted itself in 
them and their sunken walls. Thus the 
most northerly crater, which now con- 
tains a tarn, and whose sides offer a rich 
harvest to the botanist, seems to be the 
oldest ; then come the 2nd and 3rd, pro- 
ceeding s., and lastly the 4th and highest, 
from the S. side of which we survey the 
surrounding prospect. Each of these 
craters lies 15 to 20 metres (50 to 65 ft.) 
higher than the one immediately preced- 
ing. The 6th from the N., which is 
entirely surrounded by the wall of the 
5th, is indisputably a comparatively new 
formation, for its steep and fissured sides 
are quite fresh and devoid of vegetation, 
as if they had only lately cooled down. 
No debris are to be distinguished any- 
where, as far as the eye can follow the 
deep ravine, which is connected with this 
crater on the S.W. Far below springs a 
brook, close to which rises up the sulphur- 
ous steam of a solfatara. No eruption of 
Ontake, however, seems to have taken 
place in historical times." — Ontake is 
particularly rich in species of plants 
that are only to be found at great alti- 
tudes,. 

The hest starting point for those 
approaching Ontake from the Naka- 
sendo side is Fukushima, whence 
it may be climbed in 1 day by 
making an early start. The night 
is spent at a hut near the top, 
whence the descent occupies a short 

* Also called Mitalce, but not to be con- 
founded with the other mountains of that 
name in Rte. 26. 



Ontake. Koma-ga-take. Ena-san. 



243 



day. Some recommend that while 
the mountain is being climbed, the 
luggage should be sent on to Age- 
matsu, and the descent be made 
to that place by turning off at 
Kurozawa, the road between which 
and Agematsu is fairly good and the 
scenery lovely. 

Steps formed of logs somewhat 
facilitate the climb through the 
forest. Ridges of cinders and rough 
debris of rockshave then to be pass- 
ed. The view from the summit 
embraces Haku-san to the N.W., 
then to the r. the peninsula of Noto, 
and still further to the r. a row of 
mighty peaks that bear traces of 
snow even during the greatest sum- 
mer heats. Conspicuous among 
these peaks are Tateyama, Yari-ga- 
take, and Norikura. Far to the 
N.E. rise the volcano of Asama 
and the chain separating the pro- 
vinces of Kotsuke and Shinshu. To 
the S.E. appear Yatsu-ga-take and 
far-ofT Fuji, with the Koma-ga-take 
of Shinshu in the near distance. 

The Shinshii Konrn-ga-take, 
loftiest of all the mountains bearing 
that bewilderirjgly common name, 
is most conveniently ascended from 
Agematsu. The distance from that 
village to the summit is called 4 ri 
8 chd, and the ascent, part of which 
is very steep, will occupy a good 
walker over 6 hrs. Three or four 
huts on the way up afford shelter 
in bad weather. The native pil- 
grims, who do not care to make the 
round of the various peaks forming 
the top of the mountain, but merely 
wish to visit Go-honsha, the highest 
point, usually ascend and descend 
in one day. But the traveller is 
recommended rather to time his 
■excursion so as to sleep at a hut 
called Tamakubo, 3 ri 32 chd from 
Agematsu, in order to witness the 
magnificent spectacle of sunrise 
from the summit. Looking east- 
wards, the eye sweeps along an 
almost continuous line of mountains 
that rise beyond the valleys of the 
Chikuma-gawa and Tenryu-gawa, 
the prominent summits in order 



from the 1. being Asama-yama 
N.N.E., Tateshina N.E. by N., 
Yatsu-ga-take N.E. by E., the Koshu 
Koma-ga-take E. by N., and, directly 
opposite, Shirane-san, including all 
its three summits Kaigane-san, 
Aino-take, and Nodori-san. The 
sharp peak seen between Koma-ga- 
take and Kaigane-san is the summit 
of H6-6-zan. To the S.E. rises a 
lofty, snow-streaked range with 
three conspicuous summits, the 
highest of which is called Akaishi. 
Another striking feature is the cone 
of Fuji, which towers up beyond a 
depression to the r. of Nodori-san. 
Looking westward, the view em- 
braces a considerable portion of the 
great chain that forms the boundary 
between the provinces of Shinshu 
and Hida, the most prominent 
summit being Ontake bearing N. 
of W., to whose r., rising in succes- 
sion to the N., are Norikura, Kasa- 
dake, Hodaka-yama, and Yari-ga- 
take. In the distance, the peaks 
of Tateyama are discernible beyond 
Yari-ga-take. Towards the W. the 
distant outline of Haku-san is visi- 
ble, while in nearer proximity to 
the S. rises Ena-san in the province 
of Mino. There is also an extensive 
view over the province of Mikawa 
and a portion of Enshu, with several 
mountains, including the double 
summit of Horaiji-yama in the 
former province and Akiha-san .in 
the latter. 

Instead of returning to Agematsu, 
one may descend Koma-ga-ta/ce on 
the E. side to Ina on the In a Kai- 
do, in 1 day. There the Rapids of 
the Tenryu-gawa are within easy 
reach, see p. 230. 

12. — Ena-san. 

Standing at the S. end of the 
great divide between the Kiso and 
Tenryu valleys, this fine mountain, 
7,450 ft. high, commands a magni- 
ficent panorama of the mountains 
of Central Japan, and has the 
advantage of being comparatively 
easy of access. The ascent is made 
from Nakatsu-gaioa (Inn, *Rashi- 



2te 



Route 31. — The Potteries of Seto. 



riki) on the Nakasendo, whence the 
expedition up and down takes one 
long day, with varied and delight- 
ful views. 

Ena-san may also be ascended 
froni Ochiai, 1 ri further up the Naka- 
sendo than Nakatsu-gawa ; but this 
alternative way, though shorter, is 
much steeper. 

Nakatsu-gawa being conveniently 
situated for reaching the Tenryu- 
gawa, the descent of the Rapids of 
that river may be combined with a 
trip up Ena-san. It is a day's 
walk over the Misaka-toge, with 
lovely views of Ontake and the 
mountains of Kdshu, to Tokimata 
(see p. 230). 



ROUTE 31. 



The Potteries of Seto. 

The province of Owari of which Nagoya 
is the capita], and the adjacent province 
of Mino, have for niany ages been flourish- 
ing centres of the porcelain industry, the 
most famous seat of which is at Seto, 
where Kato Shirozaemon, the first great 
master of Japanese ceramic art, set 
up his kiln ahout the year 1230 on 
his return from six years of diligent study 
in China. Thenceforth Seto became 
the head-quarters of the manufacture 
of dainty little jars, ewers, and other 
utensils for the tea ceremonies (cha-no-yu) , 
so that the word seto-mono, literally ''Seto 
things," has come to be employed in Japa- 
nese as a generic name for all pottery and 
porcelain, much as the word china is used 
in English. Seto has remained the chief 
porcelain manufactory of Japan. Many of 
the pieces now turned out— especially the 
monster blue-and- white vases — are intend- 
ed only for the foreign market. This local- 
ity suffered terribly from the great earth- 
quake of 1891 ; for though the houses re- 
mained standing, the kilns and entire 
stock were smashed. 

Persons whose time is limited can 
witness the processes of porcelain 
manufacture at Matsumura's es- 
tablishment in Nagoya. Those with 
a day to spare should visit Seto, 5J 
ri (13 J m.) from that city along a flat 
and excellent jinrikisha road. 



Seto (no inns) is a general name 
for the four hamlets of Kita Shingai, 
Minami Shingai, Go, and Hora, 
situated on low hills that surround 
an almost circular valley. About 
eighty households are engaged in 
the manufacture of porcelain, and 
seventeen or eighteen in that of com- 
mon pottery. The clay is found in 
the immediate neighbourhood, the 
silica being brought from Sannagi 
in the N. W. corner of Mikawa, about 
3 ri distant. A large proportion of 
the common pottery that goes under 
the name of Seto ware comes from 
Akazu, about 1 ri further up the 
valley to the E. The establishments 
best worth visiting are those of Kato 
Mokuzaemon, Kato Shigeju, and 
Kato Masukichi in Kita Shingai, 
and Kato Gosuke in Minami Shin- 
gai, the latter being noted for his 
translucent white ware, chiefly sake- 
cups. The Toki-kwan at Minami 
Shingai is a bazaar for all the wares 
of the neighbourhood. There are 
numerous smaller houses, — indeed 
the villagers carry on no other trade. 
Kato Gosuke owns another and 
larger manufactory at Tajimi, a 
vill. about 2J ri from Seto, not ac- 
cessible by jinrikisha, where is pro- 
duced the finest porcelain in Mino, 
with delicate decorations in pale 
blue, obtained from the native cobalt 
known under the name of konjo. A 
darker shade is derived from an im- 
pure cobalt imported from China, 
and called by the potters kyugosu. 
Our word cobalt has been corrupted 
by them into koliaru, and this term 
is employed to denote the pigment 
obtained from Europe. 

In the near vicinity of Nagoya are 
various smaller villages devoted to 
the production of minor kinds of 
porcelain and pottery, such as the 
Ofuke-yaki, Yosamu-yaki, Ftijimi- 
yaki, Toyoraku-yaki, aud Inuyama- 
yaki. Coarse earthenware is made 
at Tokonabe, 10 ri to the S. of Na- 
goya, near Taketoyo. 



Boute 32. — The Shrines of Ise. 



245 



EOUTE 32. 

The Shrines op Ise. 

1. preliminary information. 2. 
from the tokaido to yam ad a. 3. 
from kyoto to yamada. 4. yoko- 
hama to yamada by sea. 5. 
yamada and neighbourhood, 
the temples of ise. [province 

OF SHIMA.] 

1. — Preliminary Information. 

Ise is the name, not of a town, but of a 
province lying to the E. and S.E. of Kyoto 
on the W. shore of O wari Bay. The temples, 
which rank highest among the holy places 
of the Shinto cult, stand on the outskirts 
of the town of Yamada, near the S.E. fron- 
tier of the province. It should be premised 
that the interest of the trip to Ise is chiefly 
antiquarian. Without going so far as to 
say, with a disappointed tourist, that 
"there is nothing to see, and they won't 
let you see it," we may remind intending 
travellers of the remarkable plainness of 
all Shinto architecture, and add that the 
veneration in which the shrines of Ise are 
held is such that none but priests and Im- 
perial personages are allowed to penetrate 
into the interior. The rest of the world 
may only peep through the outer gate. 

The ways of reaching Yamada are 
as follows : 

I. From Tokyo to Atsuta (former- 
ly called Miya) on the Tokaido Rail- 
way, 1st day ; thence by coasting 
steamer to Yokkaichi, whence train 
{Kivansei Tetsudo) to Tsu, and jin- 
rikisha to Yamada, 2nd (long) day. 
Instead of going from Atsuta to 
Yokkaichi by steamer, one may per- 
form that part of the journey by 
jinrikisha via Kuwana, and thus 
avoid the sea altogether; but this 
lengthens the journey by some 
hours. It is intended to connect 
Atsuta with Yokkaichi by railway, 
and that will then be the best route ; 
but only the W. Section of 8J miles 
between Kuwana and Yokkaichi is 
likely to be soon completed. Atsuta 
being the next station to Nagoya, 
some may feel disposed to spend the 
night at the European hotel at the 
latter place rather than at one of 



the Japanese inns at Atsuta. It 
would still generally be possible to 
catch the steamer leaving Atsuta 
the following morning. The 23§ m. 
separating Tsu from Yamada will 
also soon be traversed by a rail- 
way. 

II. From Kyoto by the Tokaido 
Railway as far as Kusatsu Junc- 
tion, whence by Kwansei Railway 
to Tsu, 4 hrs. from Kyoto. Jinriki- 
sha from Tsu to Yamada in 5 hrs. 

III. Instead of the railway, take 
the steamer direct from Yokohama 
to Yokkaichi, where tranship for 
Kami Yashiro, the port of Yamada, 
from which it is distant 1?J ri (3 J 
miles) by jinrikisha. Time from 
Yokohama, about 30 hours, part of 
which is done at night. 

IV. There is a cross-country road 
from Nara to the Temples of Ise, 
practicable for jinrikishas and oc- 
casionally affording pretty views. 
It is much frequented by pilgrims 
who combine the Yamato-meguri, 
or Round of the Holy Places of 
Yamato (see Route 42), with the 
Ise-mairi, or Ise Pilgrimage, and 
the Kumano-mairi, or Kumano Pil- 
grimage (see Route 43). The trip 
from Nara to Yamada takes 2f 
days, the itinerary being as fol- 
lows : — 

NARA to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Sakurai 2 20 6J 

HASE 1 23 4 

Haibara 1 15 3| 

Sambon-matsu . . . . 2 17 6 

Nabari 2 15 

Ao 3 4 7i 

Iseji 35 2J 

Kaito 2 18 6 

Onoki 2 13 5f 

Rokken (Miwatari). 3 — 7i 

MATSUZAKA . . . . 1 2 2£ 

Saigu 2 20 6J 

YAMADA 2 27 6f 

Total 28 15 69J 



The main Ise road is joined at 
Rokken. The best inns at the 



246 



Route 32.— The Shrines of he. 



various places mentioned in the 
above ways to Ise are as follows : — 

At Atsuta, Kikyo - ya, near 

station ; Okada- 
ya, near steamer 
landing-place. 

,, Hase, Idami-ya, Yoshi- 

no-ya. 

,, Iseji, Momiji-ya. 

„ Kaito, Momiji-ya. 

,, Kami Yasliiro, Ozaki-ya. 

„ Kuwana, *Kyo-ya. 

,, Matsuzaka, Tai-ya. 

., Nabari, Tawara-ya, 

„ Nagoya, Shina-chu (Hotel 

du Progres), 
*Shukin-ro. 

„ Onoki, Fuji-ya. 

., Rokken, Hotei-ya. 

„ Sakurai, *Taba-ichi. 

„ Sambon-matsu, Mushi-ya. 

„ Seki, Uo-ya. 

„ Tsu, Waka-roku. 

„ Yamada, *Abura-ya. 

,, Yokkaichi, Hamada-ya. 

2. — From the Tokaido to Yamada. 

Atsuta (see p. 271) is the station 
on the Tokaido Railway at which 
to alight. Here one gets on board 
a boat to convey one to the steamer 
which takes passengers across the 
head of Owari Bay in 3£ hrs. to 

YokkaicM, where also it is neces- 
sary to land in a small boat. Indeed, 
the extreme shallowness of Owari 
Bay prevents any but quite small 
craft from approaching the shore at 
any point. The Hamada-ya Inn is 
at the landing-place. Tall chimneys 
rise above the roofs of the houses, 
giving the town an appearance 
which, at least for Japan, is peculiar. 
The situation is a good one, there 
being fresh breezes from the bay in 
summer, and a fine prospect of _the 
mountains on the borders of Omi j 
and Iga. Tarusaka-yavia, in the j 
vicinity, is the favourite holiday | 
resort of the citizens, especially in 
spring. Among the principal pro- j 
ducts of Yokkaichi may be men- 1 
tioned oil, rice, paper, silk, and I 
Banko faience, — a ware, for the 
most part, exceedingly light and | 



having hand-modelled decoration in 
relief. The best Banko shop is that 
kept by Kawamura Matasuke in 
Minami-machi ; but as every variety 
of this cheap and fascinating ware 
is easily procurable in Yokohama 
and Kobe, there is no call to stop 
over a steamer on its account. Yok- 
kaichi is one of the " Special Open 
Ports " for the export of rice, wheat, 
flour, coal, and sulphur. 

[The alternative plan of going by 
jinrikisha from Atsuta to Yok- 
kaichi round the head of the 
Bay of Owari occupies about 
6 hrs. in fine weather with two 
coolies. The country is flat, 
and the road generally good. 
It is a part of the Old Tokaido 
— little used, however, even in 
pre-railway days, the sea pass- 
age being so much shorter. 

Itinerary. 

ATSUTA to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Fukuda 3 8 7$ 

Maegasu 2 11 5| 

KUWANA .... 1 22 4 
YOKKAICHI.. 3 23 9 

Total 10 28 26£ 



The country is intersected by 
a network of rivers which here 
debouch into the sea. The 
Kisogawa, swelled by the 
waters of the Nagara-gawa and 
the Ibigawa, is the largest of 
these. At Maegasu, where it 
has to be crossed by ferry, it is 
over 9J cho (nearly § m.) wide. 
Very extensive works are in 
progress with the object of 
minimising the recurrence of 
destructive floods. The view of 
distant mountains is pretty all 
the way as one proceeds west- 
wards. 

Kuwana (Inn, *Ky6-ya) is a 
large town, formerly the re- 
sidence of a rich Daimyo. Its 
decidedly second-rate attrac- 
tions are the Temple of the 
Gods of Kasuga, and at the W* 



Various Ways to Yamada. 



247 



end, Atago-yama, whither the 
inhabitants go out on holidays 
for the sake of the view. The 
noted Shinto Temple of Tado, 
which stands in a glen a few 
miles off the road on the way 
between Maegasu and Kuwana 
(2 ri 23 cho from the latter 
town), has lovely maples and 
flowering trees, and is alto- 
gether a picturesque and 
curious place. 

It is dedicated jointly to the Sun- 
Goddess and tolchi-moku-ren, a one- 
eyed dragon god, who is very power- 
ful as a rain-producer. Accordingly 
this temple is much resorted to in 
times of drought, the peasants carry- 
ing off gohei from it to their respec- 
tive fields and villages. They must, 
however, he careful not to let the gohei 
touch the ground anywhere on the 
way ; for all the rain would then fall 
on that spot, and none would be left 
for the places where it is wanted. 

From Kuwana on to Yokka- 
ichi the only thing to notice is 
the view of the mountain- 
range that separates the pro- 
vinces of Ise and Omi.] 

Arrived at Yokkaichi, we take 
the railway, of which the following 
is a schedule : — 

KWANSEI EaILWAY. 



CD "£ 








Names 




12* 


of 


Remarks. 




Stations. 






YOKKAICHI. 




4| m. 


Kawarada. 




8* 


Takamiya. 


rMost trains 


Hi 


Kameyama Jet.. 


■< change car- 


17| 


Shimonosho. 


(. riages. 


tii 


Ishinden. 




24 


TSU. 





Between Yokkaichi and Kame- 
yama, the railway more than once 
crosses a section of the old Tokaido 
now abandoned by the so-called 
Tokaido Railway. The avenue of 
pine-trees lining this road forms a 
characteristic feature. The moun- 
tains to the r» are those on the 



borders of Omi, the most prominent 
being the Suzuka-toge, with Kama- 
ga-take at the N. and Kyo-ga-mine 
at the S. end. At 

Ishinden, is an enormous Bud- 
dhist temple called Senshuji, or 
more commonly Takata no Gobo. 

This, the chief mooastery of the Takata 
sub-sect, was founded at Takata in Shiruo- 
tsuke by the celebrated abbot ^hinran 
Shonin in 1226, and removed here in 1465 
by the priest Shin-e. 

The building closely resembles in 
style and scale the vast Hongwanji 
temples described under Tokyo and 
Kyoto, which is as much as to say 
that it is majestically spacious and 
chastely rich. The architectural 
similarity is accounted for by the 
fact that the Takata and Hongwanji 
are sister sects, both being sub- 
divisions of the great Shin sect. 

Tsil ( Inns, Waka - roku, with 
Europ. resit, near by ; Murata-ya), 
which, with its suburbs, is 5 m. 
long, is the capital of the Prefecture 
of Mie, wherein are included the 
provinces of Iga, Ise, Shima, and 
the N. E. part of Kishu. 

Formerly it was the castle-fown of the 
Todd family, whose fief was valued at 
323, ( .!f>0 bags of rice. 

In the middle of the town, close 
to the inns, stand two noted Bud- 
dhist temples, — Kivannon-ji and Ko 
no Amida, the former rather tawdry, 
the latter exquisite though on a 
small scale. 

The legend on which the sanctity of this 
temple rests, is a good example of the 
fusion that took place between Buddhism 
and Shinto in early times. A Buddhist 
priest named Kakujo made a pilgrimage 
of one hundred days to the shrine of the 
Sun -Goddess at Ise, to entreat her to 
reveal to him her original shape, — the 
idea in those days being that the Shinto 
deities were avatars, or temporary mani- 
festations (Gongen), of winch Buddhist 
saints were the originals (J^onchi Butsu). 
On the hundredth night the Sun-Goddess 
appeared to Kakujo in a dream, com- 
manding him to go out next morning on 
the sea-shore of Futami, where she pro- 
mised to show herself to him as she really 
was. He did so, and there appeared 
floating on the surface of the waves a 
gold-coloured serpent over ten feet long. 
But the priest was not yet satisfied. 
" This," cried he, " is but a pious device 



248 



Route 32, — The Slirlnes of Ise, 



on the part of the divinity, whose real 
shape that monster can never be,"— and 
so saying, he took off him his priestly 
Heart' and flung it at the serpent, which 
vanished with it into the sea.. Three nights 
later the Goddess appeared to Kakujo in 
a second dream, and said : " The serpent 
indeed was but another temporary mani- 
festation. My real shape is preserved in 
the temple of JVluryojuji at Ko in the dis- 
trict of Suzuka in this same land of Ise. 
Go thither, and thou shalt see it," He 
went accordingly, and found that Amida 
was the Buddhist deity there worshipped. 
The image was considered so holy that 
the priests of the temple at first refused 
to show it ; but what was not the aston- 
ishment of all present when, on Kakujo' s 
request being- at last granted, the scarf 
which he had thrown at the sea-serpent 
was found twined round the image's 
neck !— All this happened at a very early 
period. The removal of the temple to 
Tsu took place about A.D. 1680, when the 
original shrine at Ko had fallen into 
decay, and the image had been found one 
day thrown down on the place where the 
temple now holding it has been raised in 
its honour. 

The holy image is enclosed in a 
shrine on the altar, and is only 
exhibited on payment of a fee, 
when a short service in its honour 
is performed and the legend re- 
cited by the attendant priest. E. 
and 1. are images of Kwannon and 
Seishi. 

Behind, and continuing all round 
the walls of the building, are dimi- 
nutive images of all the Buddhas 
and Bosatsu, called Sen-oku Butsu, 
lit., a thousand hundreds of thou- 
sands of Buddhas. Among other 
objects of interest, note the very 
large wooden figure representing 
Buddha dead. It is laid on real 
quilts. Gilt and painted carvings 
of Buddhas and angels fill the 
ramma of the chapel. The green 
coffered ceiling is covered with gilt 
Sanskrit characters in relief. A 
mirror in front of the altar attests 
that the temple belongs to the 
Shingon sect. A small octagonal 
structure to the 1. contains gilt 
images of the Thirty-three Kwannon. 
If possible, this temple should be 
visited in the evening, when there 
are almost always crowds of pil- 
grims, who— though Ise is their 
chief objective point— also think it 



well to pay their respects at all the 
lesser shrines on the way thither. 

Itinerary. 
TSU to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Onoe 2 6 5J 

Rokken 1 8 3 

MATSUZAKA .... 1 2 2J 

Saigu 2 20 6| 

YAMADA 2 27 6| 

Total 9 27 23j 

Taking jinrikishas at Tsu (until 
the railway be finished), we have the 
advantage of a good, flat road all the 
way to Yamada. Indeed throughout 
the province of Ise the excellence of 
the roads, of the jinrikishas, and of 
the jinrikisha-men adds considerably 
to the traveller's enjoyment. It is 
also possible to travel in carriages 
which resemble small prison-vans. 
Pilgrims avail themselves largely of 
this method of progression, which 
is cheaper than jinrikisha, but also 
slower. 

At the far-end of the town, stands 
1. a temple dedicated to Yuki Kotsu- 
ke no Suke, a celebrated retainer of 
Kusunoki Masashige. It dates from 
1884, and offers an elegant example 
of modern Shinto architecture. The 
same grounds contain a small but 
gaily painted shrine of Hachiman. 
A little further on, various paths 
marked by torii or sign-posts lead 
1. to an ancient and popular Shinto 
temple, situated in a pine-grove on 
the sea-shore, and called Karasu 
Gozen no Yashiro (or for short, 
Karasu), that is, the Crow Temple. 
A large sea-bathing establishment 
has recently been started here. 

This temple is dedicated to "Waka- 
hirume (also called Ori-hime, i.e., the 
Weaving Maiden), a younger sister of the 
Sun-Goddess. The name Karasu in itself 
points to some connection with the sun ; 
for that luminary is popularly supposed 
to be inhabited by a crow. Hence a crow 
looking at the sun is a subject frequently 
treated by Japanese artists. 

As we hurry on, numerous vil- 
lages are passed through, constant 
bands of wayfaters are met arrayed 
in holiday attire, and an air of 



Various Ways. to Yam a da. 



249 



bustle and prosperity is seen to 
pervade the whole country-side. 
To the r. are the mountains on the 
borders of Iga. The well-cultivated 
plain to the 1. mostly appears 
boundless, as it is too level to allow 
of many glimpses being caught of 
Owari Bay which lies beyond. 

Ilokkeil, though a well-known 
place, offers no attractions. Offi- 
cially it is now known by the name 
of Miwatari. Here the road follow- 
ed by pilgrims to Hase and the 
other Holy Places of Yamato turns 
off r. 

Matsnzaka {Inn, Tai-ya). The 
name of this town should be fami- 
liar to all Japanese scholars, as the 
birth-place of Motoori. 

Motoori Norinaga, the prince of Japanese 
literati, was born in 1730 and died in 1801. 
A pupil of the scarcely less distinguished 
scholar Mabuchi, he continued Mabuchi' s 
work of investigating Japanese antiquity, 
bringing back into literary use the pure 
ancient Japanese language, restoring the 
Shinto religion to the supremacy of which 
Buddhism had robbed it, in a word, em- 
phasising and glorifying everything na- 
tive as against that part of Japanese 
civilisation which was new and of foreign 
origin. The restoration of the Mikado to 
the absolute authority which centuries 
before had been usurped by the Shoguns, 
was naturally a prime object of the 
endeavours of a man to whom antiquity 
and perfection were convertible terms, 
and in whose belief the Mikado was really 
and truly a descendant of the Goddess of 
the Sun.' Motoori and his school thus be- 
came to some extent the authors of the 
revolution which, half a century later, 
overturned the Shogunate and brought 
the Mikado forth from seclusion to govern 
as well as reign. Motoori's works were 
very numerous. The greatest is his ela- 
borate commentary on the Kojiki, called 
Kojlki Den, which is practically an ency- 
clopaedia of Japanese ancient lore, written 
in a style as clear as it is elegant. The 
printing of the forty-four volumes of 
which it consists was not concluded till 
1822, long after the author's death. Mo- 
toori was first buried at Myorakuji, some 
miles from Matsuzaka. 

The town is dominated by a hill 
called Yoio no Mori, on which 
stands the remains of the castle 
founded in 1584 by Kamau Hida- 
no-Kami Ujisato. Below, at the 
entrance to the grounds, is the 



little Shinto Temple of Yamamuro 
Jinja, dedicated to Motoori who 
has been apotheosised during the 
present reign. 

Saig'Ti was in ancient days the 
abode of the Imperial virgin 
princesses who, until the civil wars 
of the 14th century, successively 
held the office of High Priestess of 
the Sun-Goddess. 

3. — From Kyoto to Yamada by 
t6kaido railway and kw t ansei 
Railway. 



CD 






|a| 


Names 




* o "p 


of 


Remarks. 


.1 £ M 


Stations. 












KYOTO. 




Hm. 


Inari. 




4| 


Yamashina. 




8 


Otani. 




10 


Baba (OTSU). 




16 


Kusatsu Jet 


j Change carri- 
i ages. 


2H 


Ishibe. 




26 


Mikumo. 




m 


Fukawa. 




m 


Tsuge. 


Or Kami Tsuge. 


m 


Seki. 




51 


Kameyama Jet.. 


) Change carri- 
' ages. 



For the first portion of the jour- 
ney, which follows the Tokaidd 
Railway and skirts Lake Biwa, see 
the latter part of Route 34 and Route 
40. At Kusatsu we change into 
the Kwansei Tetsudo carriages, and 
though leaving the so-called To- 
kaido Railway, really follow and 
cross and re-cross, a section of the 
old Tokaido road all the way to 
Kameyama. The line is a pretty 
one, especially between Tsuge and 
Seki, where the gradient is steep 
enough to make the assistance 
of an extra engine necessary, al- 
though two tunnels have been cut 
through the steepest parts of the 
ascent. This is the Suzuka-toge. 
The long serrated peak to the r. 
after leaving Seki is Shakujo-ga- 
take. At Kameyama we change car- 
riages again, and the rest of the 
journey hence to Yamada coincides 



250 



Route 32. — The Shrines of he. 



with that given in the preceding 
section. 

4. — Yokohama to Yamada by Sea. 

Should the traveller elect to go 
by sea, he had better begin by en- 
quiring whether there is any Euro- 
pean food to be had on board, and 
if not, then take provisions with 
him for the 18 or 20 hrs. voyage 
from Yokohama to Yokkaichi, as 
well as for the further voyage next 
day on to Kami Yashiro. The 
voyage is the same as that de- 
scribed in Route 36 as far as the 
entrance of Owari Bay, where the 
track diverges, the steamer turning 
to the r. up the bay near the head 
of which Yokkaichi is situated. 
The scenery at the entrance is very 
pretty. The ship passes between 
r. Irako-zaki, the hilly promontory 
forming the S.W. extremity of the 
province of Mikawa, and 1. the islet 
of Kamishima,, behind whose white 
and red cliffs lie other larger islands 
and the mainland of the diminu- 
tive province of Shima. Ahead and 
to the r., as the ship glides into the 
still waters of the landlocked bay, 
are seen portions of the provinces 
of Mikawa and Owari, notably Cape 
Morozaki, — the tip of the peninsula 
on which stand the commercial 
towns of Hancla and Taketoyo, 
connected with the Tokaido by 
a branch line of Railway, of 
which Obu is the junction. At 
Yokkaichi the excellent Nippon 
Yusen Kwaisha steamer is exchang- 
ed for a small coasting one. 
Leaving Yokkaichi, the views are 
delightful as one skirts the W. 
shore of Owari Bay. In the_dis- 
tance are the mountains of Omi, 
Iga, and Ise, and in the foreground 
a pine-clad beach, forming a de- 
licious symphony of yellow, green, 
and greyish blue, especially when 
seen through the opal haze of 
spring or autumn. The steamer 
calls in at Tsu, a little more 
than half-way to Kami-Yashiro. 
Total time of voyage from Yokka- 
ichi, about 5 hrs. 



5. — Yamada and Neighbourhood. 
Temples of Ise. [Province of 
Shima.] 

Yamada (Inns, *Abura-ya, Kyu- 
ka-en in a quieter part of the town 
close to the Geku temple, and no 
less than 268 others, great and 
small) is a large town formed by the 
amalgamation of several smaller 
ones — Yamada proper, Uji, Furu- 
ichi, etc. It lives by and for the 
Ise pilgrims, as do all the towns on 
the road leading to it from the 
North. So openly is this fact 
acknowledged, that the completion 
of the projected Sangu Tetsudb, or 
Pilgrim Railway from Tsu to 
Yamada, has been deferred from 
year to year at the earnest entreaty 
of the inhabitants of Matsuzaka 
and other towns and villages on the 
line, who not unnaturally fear the 
ruin of their trade. Yamada would 
be the only place benefited. The 
inns and tea-houses of Yamada are 
very lively, especially at night. At 
some of them a celebrated dance is 
performed, called the Ise Ondo. This 
dance possesses much grace, added 
to the interest of a considerable 
antiquity. Unfortunately, however, 
the character of the houses at which 
alone it is generally to be witnessed 
precludes us from recommending a 
visit thither. A religious dance 
called Kagura is executed at the 
temples for such pilgrims as 
choose to pay for it. It is divided 
into three grades, called " Small," 
" Great," and " Extra Great" (Slid, 
Dai, Dai-dai). The charges for 
these dances were, in 1893, as fol- 
lows : — 

Ise Ondo $ 2 

Slid Kagura 5 

Dai Kagura 10 

Dai-dai Kagura 20 

Among the peep-shows and booths 
in which the main street of Yamada 
abounds, are some devoted to yet 
another kind of dance which may 
be seen for a cent or two. It is 
called Sttgi Tama. The fun 
consists in the spectators flinging 



Yamada. The Ise Pilgrimage. 



251 



coppers at the faces of the girls who 
form the little orchestra, and who 
are trained to such skill in " duck- 
ing," that it is said they are never 
hit. The chief objects for sale at 
Yamada, besides holy pictures and 
other articles of Shinto devotion, 
are ornamental tobacco-pouches 
made of a peculiar sort of oil-paper. 
The best way to see the sights of 
Yamada and neighbourhood is to 
go the following round, which takes 
a day by jinrikisha to do comfort- 
ably : — from the inn to the Geku 
Temple, Futami, Toba (for the view 
from Hiyori-yama), the Naiku Tem- 
ple, and back to the inn. The road 
is mostly excellent and quite level, 
except between Futami and Toba. 
One may conveniently lunch either 
at Futami or at Toba. In addition 
to this round, or in lieu of Toba, 
good pedestrians are advised to 
climb Asama-yama (see p. 256). It 
may be mentioned that local Japa- 
nese parlaDce indicates respect for 
the great temples by suffixing the 
word San, ^ Mr.," to their names, — 
thus Naiku San, Geku San, pro- 
nounced Naixan, Gexan. 

Thousands of pilgrims resort annually 
to the temples of Ise, chiefly in winter 
and spring, when the country-folk have 
more leisure than at other seasons. The 
rationalistic educated classes of course 
take little part in such doings ; but even 
at the present day the majority of arti- 
sans Jn Tokyo, and still more in Kyoto 
and Osaka, believe that they may 'find 
difficulty in gaining a livelihood unless 
they invoke the protection of the tutelary 
goddesses of Ise by performing the pil- 
grimage at least once in their lives, and 
the peasants are even more devout be- 
lievers. In former times it was not un- 
common for the little shop-boys of Yedo 
to abscond for a while from their em- 
ployers, and to wander along the Tokaido 
as far as Ise, subsisting on the alms 
which they begged from travellers ; and 
having obtained the bundle of charms, 
consisting of bits of the wood of which 
the temples are built, they made their 
way home in the same manner. This 
surreptitious method of performing the 
pilgrimage was called nuhe-mairi, and 
custom forbade even the sternest parent 
or master from finding any fault with the 
young devotee who had been so far for so 
holy a purpose. Stories are even told of 
dogs having performed the pilgrimage by 
themselves. Those whose residence is Kyo- 



to are met by their friends at the suburb 
of Keage on their return home. The custom 
is for these friends— mostly females— to 
ride out singing the tune of the Ise Ondo 
dance, three persons being seated on each 
horse, one in the middle, and one on either 
side in a sort of wooden hod or basket. 
High revel is held at the tea-houses with 
which Keage abounds. This custom is 
termed saka-muJcai. The Ise pilgrims may 
be distinguished by their gala clothes, 
and by the large bundles of charms wrap- 
ped in oil-paper or placed in an oblong 
varnished box, which they carry suspend- 
ed from their necks by a string. 

The special character of sanctity attach- 
ing to the Ise temples arises partly from 
their extreme antiquity, partly from the 
pre-eminence of the goddesses to whom 
they are dedicated. The Naiku, lit. "Inner 
Temple," is believed by the Japanese to 
date from the year 4 B.C., and is sacred 
to the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, ances- 
tress of the Mikados. Down to the 14th 
century, some virgin Princess of the Im- 
perial family was always entrusted with 
the care of the mirror which is the Sun- 
Goddess's emblem, and of which some 
Japanese writers speak as if it were itself 
a deity, while others take it to be merely 
the image of the goddess. It is kept in 
a box of chamsscyparis wood, which rests 
on a low stand covered with a piece of 
white silk. The mirror itself is wrapped 
in a bag of brocade, which is never opened 
or renewed ; but when it begins to fall to 
pieces from age, another bag is put on, 
so that the actual covering consists of 
many layers. Over the whole is placed a 
sort of wooden cage with ornaments said 
to be of pure gold, over which again is 
thrown a cloth of coarse silk, falling to 
the floor on all sides. The coverings of 
the box are all that can be seen when the 
doors are_opened at the various festivals. 
The Geku, or " Outer Temple," so-called 
because of its slightly inferior sanctity, is 
now dedicated to the Goddess of Food, 
Toyo-uke-bime-no-Kami, also called Uke- 
mochi -no-Kami, but was in earlier times 
under the patronage of Kuni-toko-tachi- 
no-Mikoto, a god whose name signifies 
literally "His Augristness the Earthly 
Eternally Standing One." In either case, 
this temple may be considered as sacred 
to the worship of a _deification of the 
earth, while the Naiku is dedicated to a 
deification of the sun, the great ruler of 
heaven. The native authorities do not in- 
form us of the character of the emblem by 
which the Earth-Goddess is represented. 
As in the case of other Shinto temples, so 
here also at Ise many secondary deities 
{ai-dono) are invoked. Those of the Naiku 
are Tajikara-o-no-Kami, lit. "the Strong- 
Handed-Male-Deity," who pulled the Sun- 
Goddess out of the cave to which she had 
retired to avoid her brother's ill-usage, 
and a goddess who was one of the fore- 
bears of the Imperial line. The second- 
ary deities of the Geku are Ninigi-no- 



CO 

I- 
< 

Ul 

lain 




iff liiai 







The Gelcu Temple. 



253 



Mikoto, grandson to the Sun-Goddess and 
ancestor of the Imperial line, and two of 
the gods who attended him on the occa- 
sion of his descent from heaven to earth. 

The architecture seen at Ise is believed 
to represent the purest and most archaic 
Japanese style,— the old native hut, in 
fact, before the introduction of Chinese 
models. A very ancient rule prescribes 
that the two great Ise temples, as also 
every minor edifice connected with them, 
shall be razed to the ground and recon- 
structed every twenty years in exactly 
the same style, down to the minutest 
detail. For this purpose there are, both 
at the NaiTcu and at the Gelcu, two closely 
adjacent sites. The construction of the 
new temples is commenced on the vacant 
sites towards the end of the period of 
twenty years ; and when they are finish- 
ed, the ceremony of Sengyo, or " Trans- 
ference," takes place, the sacred emblems 
being then solemnly and amidst a great 
concourse of pilgrims removed to the new 
buildings from the old. These are forth- 
with pulled down and cut up into myriads 
of charms (o harai), which are sold to 
pilgrims. The renovation last took place 
in October, 1889. The immemorial anti- 
quity of the Ise temples is therefore only 
the antiquity of a continuous tradition, 
not that of the actual edifices. It is pro- 
bable, however, that at no time for many 
centuries past could Ise have been seen to 
such advantage as at present, when the 
minute and enthusiastic researches of 
four generations of scholars of the " Shin- 
to Revival" school into the religious 
archaeology of their nation have at last 
met with official encouragement, and the 
priests have been endowed with the pecu- 
niary means to realise their dream of 
restoring the Japan of to-day to the reli- 
gious practices, architecture, and ritual 
of pristine ages untouched by the foreign 
influence of Buddhism. 

Closely connected with the great _Ise 
shrines are two smaller ones, the Izogu at 
Isobe on the frontier of Ise and Shima, 
some 4 or _5 ri beyond Toba, and the 
Takihara Gu at No]iri in Ise. The sacred- 
ness of these places is traced to the fact 
that they were in turn the temporary 
head-quarters of the cult of the Sun-God- 
dess before it was fixed definitively in its 
present site. The Izogu scarcely deserves 
a visit. The Takihara Gu is described 
near the end of Route 43. 



Leaving the Abura-ya inn and 
wending through the town, we pass 
r., in Okamoto-cho, the Shimpu 
Kosha, where are sold small gold 
and silver medals called Shirtipu, 
inscribed with the name of the 
Geku temple, together with other 
charms. 

The GJekfi Temple. The ap- 
proach is pretty. A Shin-en, lit. 
" Divine Park," containing a circular 
lake, has replaced the houses and 
fields that covered the place previ- 
ous to 1889, and beyond rises a hill 
finely timbered with cryptomerias, 
huge camphor-trees, maples, keyaki, 
and the sacred though not imposing 
ma-sakahi (Cleyera japonica). The 
main entrance is by the Ichi no 
Torii, or First Archway, to whose 
r. is the Sanshitsho, lit. " Place of 
Assembly," where members of the 
Imperial family change their gar- 
ments previous to worshipping in 
the temple. A broad road leads 
hence through the trees to the 
temple. A short way up it is the 
Ni no Torii, or " Second Archway," 
near which stands a shop for the sale 
of pieces of the wood used in the con- 
struction of the temple, packets' of 
rice that have been offered to the 
gods, and o fuda, or paper charms 
inscribed with the name of the 
Goddess of Food. Next door is 
a building where the kagura dances 
are performed at the request of 
pious pilgrims, and where the food 
offerings are sold for a few sen 
a meal. Beyond these buildings we 
soon reach the enclosure contain- 
ing the Geku, or actual temple, 
concealed for the most part behind 
a succession of fences. The outer 
fence, called Ita-gaki, is built of 



Index to Plan of Ise Temple. 



1. Bampei (screen). 

2. Ita-gaki (1st fence). 

3. Ara-gaki (2nd fence). 

4. Tama-gaki (3rd fence). 

5. Mizu-gaki (4th fence). 

6. Gate-keeper's Lodge. 



7. Shijo-den. 

8 ) 

q' [■ Hoden (treasuries). 

10. Shoden (chief shrine). 

11. Mike-den. 



254 



Boute 32.— The Shrines of he. 



cryptomeria wood, neatly planed 
and unpainted. It is 339 ft. in 
width at the front, and 335 ft. in 
the rear ; the E. side is 247 ft., the 
W. side 235 ft. long, so that the 
shape is that of an irregular 
oblong, the formation of the ground 
rather than any necessary relation 
of numbers having determined the 
proportions. The temple on the 
alternative site, which was hewn 
down in 1889, bad its long side 
E. and W., and the short N. and S. 
A little to one side of the middle 
of the front face is the principal en- 
trance, formed of a torii similar to 
those already passed, but of small- 
er dimensions. The screen opposite 
is called a bampei. There are four 
other entrances in the Ita-gaki 
formed each by a torii, one on each 
side and two at the back, one of 
which belongs to the Mike-den, 
where the food offerings are set out 
twice daily. The S. torii gives 
access to a small court, the further 
side of which is formed by a thatch- 
ed gateway ordinarily closed by a 
white curtain, while the ends are 
formed by the Ita-gaki. On the 1. 
hand is a gate-keeper's lodge. Un- 
less the pilgrim be an Imperial 
personage, he is prevented by the 
curtain from seeing much further 
into the interior. 

The curtain here mentioned has a 
melancholy historical interest. Viscount 
Mori, Japanese Representative, first at 
Washington and then in Loudon, after- 
wards Minister of Education and one 
of the foremost leaders of modern Japa- 
nese progress, was assassinated by a 
Shinto fanatic for having, when on a 
visit to Ise, lifted this curtain with his 
walking-stick in order to obtain a better 
view of the interior of the temple court. 
The murder did not take place at once, 
but some months la.ter, on the 11th 
February, 1889, as Mori was donning his 
gala uniform for the ceremony of the pro- 
mulgation of the Japanese Constitution. 
The assassin, one Nishino Bunta.ro, was 
immediately cut down by the Minister's 
attendants ; but by an obliquity of judg- 
ment curiously common in Japan, popular 
sympathy ranged itself so markedly on 
his side as against his unfortunate victim, 
that pilgrimages were made to his grave 
in the Yanaka cemetery at Tokyo, hun- 
dreds of wreaths and sticks of incense 
were placed upon it, and odes composed 



in the assassin's honour. The popular 
infatuation even went so far that it was, 
and perhaps still is, believed by many 
that Nishino Buntaro's intercession with 
heaven will ensure the fulfilment of any 
desire offered up to the gods through him. 

The thatched gate-way above- 
mentioned is the principal opening 
in a second fence called the Ara-gaM, 
composed of cryptomeria trunks 
alternately long and short, placed 
at intervals of about 2| ft., with 
two horizontal railings, one running 
along the top, the other along the 
centre. The distance of this fence 
from the outer enclosure varies from 
10 ft. to 36 ft. on different sides of 
the square. Besides the torii on 
the S., there are three others, one 
on each side, corresponding to the 
other three main entrances of the 
boarded enclosure. These are un- 
usual in style, being closed with 
solid gates, an arrangement rarely 
seen in Shinto temples. Inside the 
thatched gate-way is a shed 40 ft. 
by 20 ft. called the Shijo-den, a 
restoration of one of three buildings 
anciently called Naorai-dono, which 
were set apart for the entertainment 
of the envoys sent by the Mikado, 
after the celebration of the Kannami 
Matsuri, or " Festival of Divine 
Tasting " (see p. 3). Just inside a 
small torii are the ishi-tsubo, — 
spaces marked out by larger stones, 
r. for the Mikado's envoy, 1. for the 
priests of the temple. At a dis- 
tance of 33 yds. from the first 
thatched gate-way is a second, 
which gives access to a third court, 
surrounded by a palisade called the 
Tama-gaki f formed of planks about 
8 ft. high, placed close together. 
Just within this court is a small 
wooden gate-way, immediately be- 
yond which is a thatched gate-way, 
forming the entrance into the cen- 
tral enclosure. This enclosure is 
surrounded by a wooden palisade 
called Mizu-gaki, and is almost a 
perfect square, being 134 ft. by 131 
ft. At the back of it is the Shoden 
or chapel, on the r. and 1. of the 
entrance to which are the treasuries 
(Jwden). 



The Geku Temple. FutamL 



255 



The chapel is 34 ft. in length by 
19 ft. in width. Its floor, raised 
■about 6 ft. from the ground, is 
supported on wooden posts planted 
in the earth. A balcony 3 ft. wide, 
which is approached by a flight of 
nine steps 15 ft. in width, runs 
right round the building, and car- 
ries a low balustrade, the tops of 
whose posts are cut into the shape 
called hoshu no tama, which, 
strangely enough, is a Buddhist 
ornament, the so-called " Precious 
Jewel of Omnipotence." The steps, 
balustrade, and doors are profusely 
overlaid with brass plates; and the 
external ridge-pole, cross-trees, and 
projecting rafters are also adorned 
with the same metal. A covered 
way leads from the inner gate up 
to the steps of the chapel. The 
two treasuries are raised on short 
legs or stands, after the fashion of 
the store-houses of the Loochooans. 
'They are said to contain precious 
silken stuffs, raw silk presented by 
the province of Mikawa, and trap- 
pings for the sacred horses. Be- 
tween the Ita-gaki and the Ara- 
gaJci stands the Heiliaku-den, in- 
tended to contain the offerings 
called gohei. Another building in 
the enclosure is the Mike-den, 
where the water and the food 
offered up to the gods of both the 
Geku and Naiku are daily set forth, 
in winter at 9 a.m. and 4 p.m., in 
summer at 8 a.m. and 3 p.m. 

Up to A.D. 729, the food offerings for 
the Naiku, having first been prepared at 
the Geku, were conveyed to the former 
temple, there to "be set out. In that year, 
us this ceremony was being performed, 
the offerings were unwittingly carried 
past some polluting object which happen- 
ed to be in the road. The consequence 
was that the Mikado fell sick, and the 
diviners attributed his sickness to the 
auger of the Sun-Goddess. Since that 
time the offerings for both temples have 
been set out only at the Geku. 

The offerings made to each of the 
principal deities consist of four cups 
of water, sixteen saucers of rice, 
and four of salt, besides fish, birds, 
fruits, seaweed, and vegetables. 
The offerings to each lesser deity 



are the same, except that only hal 
the quantity of fruit is provided. 

The chief festivals are the " Pray- 
ing for Harvest " (Kinen-sai), 4th 
February ; " Presentation of Cloth- 
ing" (Onzo-sai), 17th April; 
" Monthly Festival" (Tsuki-nami 
no matsuri), 15th June; " Divine 
Tasting " (Kan-name), 15th and 
16th October ; " Harvest festival " 
(Shinzo-sai), 23rd November. Be- 
sides these, a " Great Purification " 
(O-barai), is performed once every 
month, and also before each of the 
above-named grand festivals. The 
above dates are those of the celebra- 
tion at the Naiku. The ceremonies 
are repeated at the Geku on the 
following day, at the Izogu on the 
third day, and at the Takihara Gu 
on the fourth; but the Imperial 
envoy who represents the Mikado 
at the two former shrines, does not 
visit the two latter. 

On the side of a low hill to the S. 
of the chief temple buildings, stand 
two much smaller shrines. That to 
the 1. is known as Ara-matsuri, that 
to the r. as Ame-no-miya. Higher 
up the same hill is the Taka-no- 
nviya. 

After thus seeing as much as is 
permitted to be seen of the Geku, 
we re-enter our jinrikishas and 
speed along an excellent level road 
to Futami, a distance of 2 ri 10 cho. 
Several villages are passed, of which 
Kawasaki and Kurose are the lar- 
gest, and an unusually long bridge 
called the Shio-ai no Hashi, span- 
ning the estuary of the Isuzu-gawa. 
There are constant delightful views 
of a mountain range to the r., of 
which Asama-yama is the most 
conspicuous summit. 

Futami (Inn, Kaisui-ro, with sea- 
bathing) is considered by the Japa- 
nese to be one of the most pictures- 
que places on their coast, and few 
art motives are more popular than 
the Myoto-seki, or "Wife and Hus- 
band Rocks," — two rocks close to 
the shore, tied together by a straw 
rope. 



256 



Route 32* — The Shrines of he. 



In this case the straw rope (skime) pro- 
bably symbolises conjugal union. There 
is, however, a legend to the effect that 
the god Susa-no-o, in return for hospitality 
received, instructed a poor villager of this 
place how to protect his house from future 
visitations of the Plague-God by fastening 
such a rope across the entrance. A tiny 
shrine called Somin Shozai no Yashiro com- 
memorates the legend. 

The view of islets and bays 
stretching away eastwards is certain- 
ly very pretty, even distant Fuji being 
occasionally visible ; and the me- 
tamorphic slate rocks ( chlorite 
schist) are such as Japanese esthetes 
prize highly for their gardens. It 
may nevertheless be doubted whe- 
ther Europeans would single out 
Futami for particular praise from 
among the countless lovely scenes 
in Japan, especially in a neighbour- 
hood boasting the glorious views from 
Hiyori-yama and Asama-yama. The 
building beyond the Futami inn is 
the Hinjitsu-ktvan, erected in 1886 
for the Empress Dowager who is a 
great traveller. The way from Futa- 
mi to Toba is rather hilly, but pretty, 
especially near the Ike-no-ura, a 
many-branched inlet of the sea. 

Toba (Inn, Osaka-ya) is a sleepy 
little town, enlivened only by the 
visits of coasting steamers ; and the 
private Dock}^ard (Tekkosho), es- 
tablished there some years ago, has 
not proved a success. But the top 
of Hiyori-yama, only 3 cho from the 
inn, affords a view which is a perfect 
dream of beauty. It includes Fuji, 
Haku-san, and most of the moun- 
tains mentioned on the next page in 
the list of those visible from Asama- 
yama. But its special loveliness 
is the foreground, — a labyrinth of 
islets and peninsulas and green hills, 
and the blue sea studded with the 
white sails of junks, while other 
junks lie at anchor in Toba harbour. 
The hill rising conspicuously in the 
middle of the town was the site of 
the castle of the former Daimyo, 
Inagaki Shinano-no-Kami. 

[From Toba, roads lead round 
and across the Province of 
Shima into Kishu. Steamers 



also call in at Matoya and 
Hamajima on their way west- 
wards. Shima resembles Kishu 
in its general features, but is 
less well-worth visiting. The 
reader is accordingly referred 
to Rbe. 43. 

The little province of Shima has 
been celebrated from the earliest 
antiquity for its female divers (a ma), 
pictures of whom — bare to the waist 
and with a red nether garment — 
may often be seen. They fish up 
awabi (sea-ears) and tengusa, a kind 
of sea-weed (Gelidium corneinn) which 
is used to make a delicious jelly 
called toJcoro-ten. So hardy are they, 
that they will go on diving even when 
on the eve of childbirth ; but they age 
quickly and become repulsively ugly, 
with coarse tanned skins and hair 
that turns reddish from constant 
wetting, and is apt to fall off in 
patches. The women of Shima not 
only dive ; they also do most of the 
field work. In fact they support 
their fathers, brothers, and hus- 
bands, who loll about, smoke, play 
chess, and are, in a word, the weaker 
vessels. Few girls get married who 
are not expert divers, nor do they 
marry very early in most cases, 
being too valuable to their parents 
as bread-winners. Even the wife of 
a man in easy circumstances— a 
village elder, for instance— is forced 
by public opinion to gain her liveli- 
hood aquatically. The best places 
at which to see the diving are 7 dshi- 
mura, a vill. on one of the large islands 
opposite Toba, Kamijima, an island 
beyond Toshijima, and Kolca near 
Mato-ya.] 

No pedestrian, even if he have 
seen the view from Hiyori-yama, 
should miss that from Asama-yama. 

This name, which is written with the 
characters gj ^g, has nothing to do with 
the Asama of Shinshu, which is written 



The way back from Toba and Futa- 
mi skirbs its base ; and as jinriki- 
shas can be availed of to a spot 
within 22 cho of the top, the best 
plan is to take them so far and 
either return again the same way, 
or, better still, send then round to 
wait at the Naiku Temple, which 
latter plan gives one a capital 
4 or 5 m. walk down the gradual 
incline of the other slope of the 



Route 33. — West Coast from Tswruga to Naoetsu. 257 



mountain. The celebrated view is 
obtained from a spot 1,300 ft. above 
the sea, where there is a tea-house 
called Tbfu-ya. A curious fact is 
that one of the widest mountain 
panoramas in Japan is obtained 
in spite of the circumstance that 
barely half the horizon lies open 
to view. Below in the foreground is 
Owari Ba} 7 , looking like a lake, while 
in the distance beyond it stretches 
a long series of mountains, — Futago- 
yama on the Hakone pass, Fuji, 
Yatsu-ga-take, Akiha-san, the vol- 
cano of Asama, Koma-ga-take, 
Tateyama in Etchu, Ontake, Nori- 
kura in Hida, Haku-san, Aburazaka 
in Echizen, Ibuki-yama in Omi, 
Tado-san, Mitsugo-yama, Suzuka- 
yama, and Nunobiki-yama on the 
W. frontier of Ise. 

[Though one must return to the 
T6fu-ya tea-house in order to 
get home, it is worth walking 
on 10 cho to the Ohu-no-in of 
this holy mountain for the 
curious view which it affords 
of the green-blue jumble of den- 
sely wooded hills that form the 
province of Shima and Eastern 
Kishu. On the way one passes 
several little £>uddhist shrines, 
and — piquant contrast ! — the 
head-quarters of a favourite old 
quack medicine, the Mother 
Seigel of Japan. Mankintan — 
for so this medicament styles it- 
self — brings thousands of dollars 
yearly into the pockets of the 
people of Yamada, where there 
are scores of agencies for its 
sale. The Oku-no-in, which is 
dedicated to Kokuzo Bosatsu, 
was formerly a gem, but is now 
much decayed.] 

The views on the way down 
Asama-yama are delightful. At 
length one plunges into a sort of 
cauldron, where stand the vill. of 
Uji and the Naikii Temple, em- 
bosomed in an antique grove of 
cryptomerias, camphor-trees, and 
other magnificent timber which in 
itself is worth coming out to see. 



The camphor-trees have railings round 
them to prevent people from peeling off 
the bark and making charms of it. The 
efficacy of these charms is specially be- 
lieved in by sailors, who throw them into 
the sea to calm the waves. 

After passing the second torii, one 
sees r. the little River Isuzu, where 
the pilgrims purify themselves be- 
fore worship by washing their hands 
and mouth. Being dedicated to 
the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, the 
Naiku is of even superior sanctity 
to the Geku, and is constructed on a 
somewhat larger scale. But as the 
arrangement of the temple grounds 
and enclosed buildings closely re- 
sembles that of the Geku already 
described in detail, no particulars 
will be needed except the measure- 
ments. The outer enclosure is 195 ft. 
in front, 202 ft. at the back, and 369 
ft. at the side. The innermost en- 
closure (Mizu-gaki) measures 149 ft. 
in front, 150 ft. at the back, and 
144 ft. on each side. The bare open 
space adjoining the temple is the 
alternative site, which will be used 
to build on in the year 1909, when 
the present buildings are pulled 
down. 



ROUTE 33. 

The West Coast from Tsuruga 
to Naoetsu. 

1. itineraries : maibara-tsuruga 
branch railway, tsuruga to 
fushiki, fushiki to naoetsu. 
2. description : tsuruga, fu- 
kui, kanazawa, fushiki, [nanao 
in noto,] toyama. 

I. — Itineraries. 

A four or five days' trip, enabling 
the traveller to see something of 
the coast of the provinces of Echi- 
zen, Kaga, and Etchu on the Sea 
of Japan, is that from Kyoto to 
Tsuruga by the Tokaido and Mai- 
bara-Tsuruga Railways, through 
the historic old city of Kanazawa 



258 Route 33. — West Coast from Tsuruga to Naoetsu, 



in Kaga to the port of Fushiki in 
Etchu, whence Naoetsu, the present 
terminus of the Karuizawa-Naoetsu 
Railway, can be reached by steamer 
in a night. The entire distance 
between Tsuruga and Fushiki may 
be accomplished in jinrikishas, 

Maibaea-Tsueuga Beanch Ry. 





Names 




§ C 'C 
.-i ^ ks 


of 
Stations. 


Remarks. 


45m. 
49* 


MATBARA 


See Route 34. 
See Route 40. 


Nagahama 


56} 


Takatsuki. 




57i 


inokuchi. 




59 


iCinomoto. 




61f 


NakanogS. 




64f 


Yanagase. 




71 


Hikicla. 




m 


Tsuruga. 




76 


KANA-GA-SAKI 


(Pier Station). 



Itineeaey feom Tsueuga to 
Fushiki. 

TSURUGA to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Daira 6 4 15 

Takefn 4 35 12J 

FUKUI 5 4 12* 

Maruoka 3 24 9 

Daishoji.. 5 7 12§ 

Komatsu 5 2 12J 

Matsuto ... b 3 12| 

KANAZAWA .... 3 12 8 

Tsubata 3 18 8£ 

Imaisurugi 3 26 9 

Takaoka 4 3 10 

FUSHIKI.. 1 35 4f 

Total ; 51 29 126f 



The best plan in fine weather 
is to abandon the land for the sea 
during a portion of this journey, by 
taking steamer from Tsuruga to Sa- 
kai for Fukui, a run of 4 hrs. ; or to 
Kauaiwa for Kanazavva. 

In the event of the steamer 
between Fushiki and Naoetsu not 
being available, the following is 
the itinerary by road,— mostly dull 
travelling. 



FUSHIKI to: — Ri. Cho. M. 

Higashi Iwase 3 5 7f 

Namerikawa 3 6 7f 

Uotsu 2 8 5J 

Tomari 7 29 19 

Itoigawa 9 6 22J 

Nagahama 9 8 22£ 

NAOETSU 2 18 6 

Total 37 8 90f 



2. — Desceiption. 

The railway journey between 
Kyoto and Maibara is described in 
Route 34 ; and the shores of Lake 
Biwa, as far as the next station, 
Nagahama, in Route 40. 

At N;ig';i liama (Inn, Masu-ya at 
station), the railway leaves the 
lake and the scenery becomes tame. 
From Yanagase onward to Hikida, 
the line runs in narrow valleys 
between wooded hills and througrf 
several tunnels ; thence through 
cultivated country down to the 
coast of the Sea of Japan. 

Tsuruga. (Inn, Kome-shichi-ya) 
has two stations, one called Tsuru- 
ga, another, 5 min. further on, 
called 

Kuiin-ga-saki, or the Pier Sta- 
tion. The latter {Inns, Daikoku-ya, 
Kome-shichi-ya) should be prefer- 
red, as the steamer-office, bank, and 
other useful institutions are in 
its vicinity. Tsuruga has the best 
harbour on the Sea of Japan, and 
is in constant steam communication 
with the lesser ports up and down 
the coast. The town itself is some- 
what shut in ; but a charming view 
of land and sea may be obtained by 
climbing a small hill near the rail- 
way station called Atago-yama, 
beyond which again is the site of 
the castle of the celebrated warrior 
Yoshisada. The long promontory 
closing in the bay on the W. side, 
and sheltering it from those N. W. 
blasts that render the winter on 
this coast so terrible, is called 
Tatcishi-zaki. On its extremity 
stands a lighthouse — not, however, 
visible from the town. The stretch 



Tsuriiga. FukuL Kanazawa, 



259 



of laud to the N. E., which looks 
like a promontory as seen from 
Tsuruga, is called Kome-no-ura. 

Baira (fair accommodation at the 
house of Kinoshita Kichiemon) is a 
regular halting place. Here the 
road strikes inland. 

Takefu [Inn, Kome-ya) manu- 
factures marbled paper {sumi- 
nagashi), cotton, silk, and hard- 
ware. One of the most striking 
objects in the vicinity is the moun- 
tain of Hina-ga-take. 

Fukssi (Inn, Nawa-ya; restt. Tsu- 
kimi-ro), formerly the capital of the 
Daimyos of Echizen, still possesses 
the picturesque remains of the 
castle which was their seat, and a 
Hong wan ji temple with a beautiful 
view toward the hills. It is noted 
for the manufacture of habutai, 
paper, and yuton, — a thick oil-paper 
used to cover the mats in summer. 
Magani, a species of crab, is caught 
all along the coast, and tinned for 
export. 

To foreigners, Fukui will be further of 
interest as having been the residence, 
from 1871 to 1872, of the author of the 
Mikado's Empire, Rev. Wm. E. G-riftis, to 
whose pages the reader is referred for a 
graphic and touching account of the abdi- 
cation of the Daimyo on the 1st October, 
1871, when the decree abolishing feudalism 
had been issued. 

Sakai, also called Miknni {Inn, 
Morota), the port of Fukui, stands 
at the confluence of the rivers 
Hino, Asuwa, and Kuzuryu, and 
has steam communication with the 
other ports on the coast. 

Daislioji {Inns, Daikoku-ya, Ka- 
ruhana) was oue of the places to 
which the Christians of the Naga- 
saki district were exiled during the 
last persecution of 1867-1S73. 

Komatsu {Inn, Shimotoku) was 
formerly a castle-town belonging 
to the Daimyo of Kaga, Not far 
from Komatsu is the vill. of Yama- 
shiro with hot springs. It also 
provides most of the clay for the 
potters of Terai and Kanazawa. 

Matsuto is noted as the birth- 
place of the poetess Kaga-no-Chiyo. 
Travellers will remark the great 



industry and economy practised in 
the agriculture of this district, even 
the ridges between the rice-fields 
being sown with beans or barley. 

Kanazawa (Inns, Ayabe, Asada, 
Takabatake; European food at a 
restt. in the public garden) was the 
seat of the lords of the province of 
Kaga, the richest of all the Dai- 
myos. It is now the capital of the 
prefecture of Ishikawa, which in- 
cludes the provinces of Kaga, Noto, 
and Etchu. It is both clean and 
picturesque, and the hills above 
it command a fine prospect. The 
castle is now used as the head- 
quarters of a military division. To 
the r. of the castle is the Public 
Garden called by the literati the 
" Six-fold Garden," because possess- 
ing six excellencies, viz. size, pleasing 
appearance, labour bestowed upon 
it, an air of antiquity, running 
water, and a charming view. The 
grounds contain an Industrial 
Museum (Kioangyd Hakubutsu- 
kwan), and a fine monument erected 
to the memory of the soldiers who 
fell fighting in the Satsuma rebellion. 
The monument, which was erected 
in 1880, consists of a pile of large 
stones on which stands a handsome 
bronze figure of Yamato-take, over 
18 ft. high. At Kanazawa the 
celebrated Kutani porcelain may be 
procured in abundance. A visit 
should be paid to the Potteries of 
Gankwa-do near the Public Garden, 
where the processes of manufactur- 
ing and painting the porcelain can 
be inspected. Bronzes inlaid with 
gold and silver (zogan), and fans 
are also produced. A pleasant bath- 
ing resort near Kanazawa is Naka- 
yama Onsen, with good inns. 

Imaisuriigi {Inn, Tokko-ya) is a 
flourishing place. 

Takaoka {Inns, Akai-ya, Etchti- 
ya) stretching for a mile or more 
along the road in a cotton-weav- 
ing and silkworm-breeding district, 
is noted for its dyes and hard- 
ware. 

Fuslliki {Inns by Okada, Ueda), 
having been made one of the * ' Special 



260 Route S3. — West Coast from Tsuruga to Naoetsu. 



Open Ports," has lately risen into 
prominence, but is unattractive. 

[An excursion may be made from 
Fushiki to Nanao, the capital 
of the province of Noto. 

This province, the Jutland of 
Japan, obtains its name from the 
word nottu, which means "penin- 
sula" in the language of the former 
Aino aborigines. 

Itinerary. 

FUSHIKI to:— Ri. Clio. M. 

Himi 2 28 6f 

Ninomiya 3 33 9 J 

NANAO 2 17 6^ 

Total 9 6 22i 



Though the road is ostensibly 
meant for jinrikisha traffic, the 
heavy nature of the soil and a 
pass called the Arayama-toge, 
which has to be encountered on 
the way, generally necessitate 
walking as far as Ninomiya. 
Fair accommodation at Himi. 

Ranao (Inn, Ogome-ya) is a 
considerable town situated on 
the shores of a miniature inland 
sea, across which toy steamers 
ply. No mail steamers call in 
here, unless it be for shelter 
during a gale. The chief holiday 
resort in the neighbourhood is 
the mineral spring of Wakura, 
6 rn. distant ; but it, and in- 
deed the province of Noto gene- 
rally — low, sandy, and poor in 
historic associations — are little 
calculated to interest the foreign 
visitor. Mr. Percival Lowell, 
the well-known traveller and 
author of Noto: An Unexplored 
Corner of Japan, after having 
divided all places into two sorts, 



namely, those worth seeing but 
already seen, and those not yet 
seen but not worth seeing, says,. 
''Wakura struck me as falling 
into the latter halves of both 
categories."] 

The best halting-places between 
Fushiki and Naoetsu are TJotsu 
(Inn, Hakata-ya), and Itoigawa 
(Inn, Hayakawa). The last day of 
the journey is also the most pic- 
turesque, as the road leads for 
several miles along bold cliffs by 
the shore, commanding a glorious 
view of the Sea of Japan. 

For Naoetsu see p. 211. Travel- 
lers desirous of visiting 

Toyama (Inns, *Ki-ya, Taisei- 
kaku, European food), capital of the 
prefecture of the same name and of 
the province of Etchu, can do so 
by taking a small boat from Fushiki 
to Higashi-Iivase (Inn, Kushi-ya), a 
small port at the mouth of the 
Jinzu-gawa, in about 3 hrs., whence 
to Toyama is 2 ri 2 cho by jinriki- 
sha. Toyama can also be reached 
more directly from Takaoka by jin- 
rikisha all the way, 5 ri 29 did. 

Toyama was formerly the castle-town 
of Matsudaira Shigematsu, a cadet of the 
Maeda family, of which the Daimyo of 
Kaga was the head. The castle is now 
utilised as a school. In spite of its out-of- 
the-way situation, Toyama enjoys the dis- 
tinction of having, compared with other 
provinces of Japan, the least number of 
illiterates. But a large proportion of the 
inhabitants are wall-eyed. The principal 
trade of the place consists in medicines 
and leather. 

The snow-capped summit of Ha- 
kusan forms a striking object in 
the landscape, Toyama is a good 
starting point for those who, ap- 
proaching them from this side, wish 
to scale the peaks of Etchu and 
Hida, described in Route 30. 



SECTION III. 

ROUTES CONNECTING TOKYO 
AND KYOTO. 

(Routes 34 — 36. 



Route 34.— The Tdlmido. 



268 



ROUTE 34. 

The Tokaido by Rail from Tokyo 
to Kyoto and Kobe. 

mio-no-matsubara. from okitsu 
to shizuoka via temples of 
kuno-zan. from kakegawa to 
akiha. waterfall of yoro. 



Miles, 
31 
6 
10J 

m 

16* 
18 
20J 
26. 

32| 
40| 
43 

49 

55 

59 
64 

71 

80 



101 



Names 

of 

Stations. 



TOKYO (Shim 
bashi). 

Shinagawa 

Omori 

Kawasaki 

Tsururni 

Kanagawa 

YOKOHAMA. 

Hodogaya. 

Totsu'ka. 

OFUNA Jet. . . 

Fujisawa. 

Hiratsuka 

Oiso. 



Kozu. 



Matsuda. 

Yamakita. 

Oyama. 

Gotemba . . . 



isano. 

Numazu. 



Suzukawa 
Iwabuchi 



Beniarks. 



104 Kambara. 

110 Okitsu . 

114 
120 
128 
132 
137 
140 
146 



Ejiri. 

SHIZUOKA. 

Yaizu. 

Fujieda. 

Shimada. 

Kanaya. 

Hori-no-uclii. 



L See Route 3. 



Change for 
Kamakura & 
Yokosuka. 

Alight for. as- 
cent of Oya- 

. ma (p. 84).' 

Alight for 
Miyanoshit; , 
Hakone, and 
Atami. 



\ Alight for as- 
i cent of Fuji, 



Travellers 
from the west 
alight for 
Fuji'. At Iwa- 
buchi alight 
for Kami-ide 
waterfalls (p. 
147) and Mi 
\ nobu (p. 219), 

) Excursion to 
I Kuno-zan. 



150 


Kakegawa 


("Alight for. 
(. Akiha. 


156 


Fukuroi. 


-Travellers 
down rapids 


161 


Nakaizumi 


1 of Tenryu 
j & bound E., 
1 enter train 
here. 

f Tenryu tra- 


16S 


HAMAMATSU. 


3 vellers for 
1 the W. enter 
V. train here. 


174 


Maizaka. 




180 


Washizu. 




190 


Toyohashi. 




196 


Goyu. 




201 


Kamagori. 




210 


Okazaki. 




215| 


An jo. 




220 


Kariya. 


/"Change for 


223 


Obu 


3 Kamesaki, 
j Handa, and 








v. Take toy o. 


228 


Otaka. 




231 


Atsuta 


("Change for 
I Ise. 




235 


NAGOYA. 




240 


Kiyosu. 




246 


Ichinomiya. 




249 


Kisogawa. 




254 


G-IFU. 




263 

268 
271 


Ogaki. 

Tarui 


(Alight for 
\ Yoro. 


Seki-ga-hara. 


278 


Nagaoka. 


(Change for 
! Naaahama 
(. & Tsuruga. 


284 


MAIBARA Jet. 






ess 


Hikone. 




297 


Notogawa. 




302 


Hachiman. 




308 


Yasu. 


1 Kwansei Rail- 
! way, see p. 


313 


KUSATSU Jet. 






( 247. 


319 


Baba (OTSU). 




321 


Otani. 




324| 


Yamashina. 




327±- 


Inari. 




329 


KYOTO. 




333 


Mukomachi. 




337 1- 


Yamazaki. 




342| 


Takatsuki. 




346i 


Ibaraki. 




351 


Suita. 




359 


OSAKA 


(Alight for 
J N a r a an d 
I Sakai. 








361 


Kanzaki. 




365 


N ishinomiya. 




370 


Suiniyoshi. 




375 


Sannomiya 


J See caution 
) on p. 277. 


376 


KOBE. 





204 



Bo ute 34. — The Tokaido. 



The word Tokaido signifies "Eastern Sea 
Road." The name was given to this road 
at an early date on account of its running 
along: the sea-shore in an easterly direc- 
tion from Kyoto, which, being the old 
historic capital, was naturally regarded 
as the starting-point. From the 17th 
century onwards, the Tokaido was tra- 
versed twice yearly by Daimyos coming 
with gorgeous retinues to pay their re- 
spects to the Shogun at Yedo ; and all 
the chief towns, here as on the other great 
highways of the Empire, were provided 
with honjin — that is, specially fine tea- 
houses — for their lordships to sleep at. The 
greater portion of the beautiful avenue of 
pine-trees with which the road was lined 
still exists, and can be seen occasionally 
from the windows of the rail way carriage. 
The road itself is now comparatively 
deserted. "But what a scene it used to 
present ! How crowded with pedestrians ; 
with norimons (the palanquins of the 
upper crust), a.nd attendants; with can- 
goes (the modest bamboo conveyance of 
the humble classes) ; with pack-horses, 
conveying merchandise of all kinds to 
and from the capital or to the busy towns 
and villages along the route : with the 
trains of daimyos or of lesser gentry en- 
titled to travel with a retinue ; and with 
the commonalty, men, women and child- 
ren, on foot, all with their dresses turned 
up for facility of movement, and for the 
most part taking the journey pretty 
easily ; frequently stopping at the num- 
berless tea-houses or resting sheds by the 
way, and refreshing themselves with the 
simple little cup of weak green tea, and a 
cheery chat with whomsoever might stop 
like themselves to rest. It used to seem 
that distance was no consideration with, 
them. They could go on all day, and day 
after day, if only they were allowed 
(which they generally were) to take their 
own time and pace. The value of time 
never entered into their thoughts. . , . 



The numerous trains of armed men pass- 
ing in both directions were the most strik- 
ing feature of the scene. Never could one 
go out of one's house in any direction, 
but these two-sworded men were met 
with ; but on the Tokaido, and in the 
streets of Yedo, they appeared to be more 
numerous than the common people ; and 
it must be understood that at this time of 
which T am speaking, the crowds on por- 
tions of the road and in all the principal 
thoroughf a res of the capital , were as great 
as in the most crowded thoroughfares of 
London. It took one forcibly back to the 
feudal times in Europe, when no noble or 
landed proprietor thought of going abroad 
unattended by his armed dependants. 
Added to this, there was a certain air of 
antiquity that imparted its charm to the 
scene. The old Dutch writers described 
the road long ago, and it was even in their 
day, precisely as it was in ours. A good, 
well macadamised, causeway, (except that 



the hard stratum was of pebbles, not of 
broken stones), passing through numerous 
populous villages, only divided from each 
other by short intervals, where fine old 
trees on both sides of the road were the 
sole division between the road and the 
paddy fields. The etiquette of the road 
was well and rigidly defined. When the 
trains of two princes met, it was incum- 
bent on the lesser of them — (measured by 
his income as recognised by the Govern- 
ment, and published in the official list), to 
dismount from his norimon, if he hap- 
pened to be riding in one, and draw with 
his followers to the side of the road whilst 
the other passed. Whenever it was 
possible, therefore, such meetings were 
avoided."* 

The railway was begun in 1872 and 
finished in 1889. It reduces to 17 hrs. the 
journey from Tokyo to E^oto, which 
formerly was an affair of 12 or 13 days on 
foot. 

Travellers with time on hand are 
advised to break the journey at 
Kdzu, in order to visit Miyanoshita 
and Hakone ; at Okitsu, in order to 
visit Kuno-zan on the way between 
that station and Shizuoka ; at Shiztc- 
oka itself, and at Nagoya. Of these 
places, three, viz. Miyanoshita, 
Shizuoka, and Nagoya, have hotels 
in foreign style. Those who are 
hurried may console themselves for 
missing these interesting places by 
the knowledge that the scenery 
through which they are to pass of- 
fers many charms, including superb 
views of Fuji from both the land 
and the sea side. The least in- 
teresting portion of the line is that 
between Shizuoka and Nagoya, a 
six hours' run which may with little 
disadvantage be performed after 
dark, most of it passing through flat 
country devoted to the cultivation 
of * rice. 

The first hour of the journey — 
that between Tokyo and Yokohama 
— having been already described 
in Route 3, calls for no further 
remark. The train runs into Yoko- 
hama station to pick up passengers 
for the West, and runs out again 
for a few min. over the same ground, 
but soon diverges to the 1. At 

Ofmia Junction, a short branch 

* This description is quoted from Black's 
Young Japan, Vol. I. p. 163, et seq. 



From Fujisaiva to Namazu. 



265 



line takes travellers to the famous 
Daibutsu at Kamakura (see pp. 77-9). 

Fnjisawa (Inns, Inage-ya and 
Wakamatsu-ya at station) is no bed 
for its Buddhist temple of Yugyo- 
dera, in the miraculous healing 
powers of whose abbots extraordi- 
nary faith is placed by the lower 
orders of the surrounding country- 
side. Unfortunately, a fire de- 
stroyed the greater portion of 
the buildings in December, 1880. 
Should the intention of restoring 
them to their original splendour 
be carried out, they will well merit 
a visit. The site lies some 8 did 
from the railway station. After 
passing Fujisawa, the Hakone range, 
behind which towers the Cone of 
Fuji, begins to come in sight r. 
Soon afterwards the line crosses 
the broad stony bed of the Eiver 
Banyu, which rises in Lake Yama- 
naka on the N.E. flank of Fuji. 

Oiso is a favourite bathing resort ; 
see p. 85. At 

Kozii {Inn, Kozu-kwan), the line 
turns inland up the valley of the 
Sakawa-gawa, in order to avoid the 
Hakone mountains which effectually 
bar the way to all but foot-pass- 
engers. The scenery now becomes 
mountainous, with to the 1. the 
chief peaks of the Hakone range — Fu- 
tago-yama (the "Twin Mountain," 
so-called from its double rounded 
summit), Myojin-ga-take, Kammuri- 
ga-take, and Kintoki-zan (horn- 
shaped). An extra engine is put on 
at Yamakita to help the train up 
to Gotemba, the highest point on 
the line — 1,500 ft. above sea level. 
Between Yamakita and Oyama (not 
to be mistaken for _the mountain 
Oyama, with a long O), the scenery 
becomes wildly picturesque, and 
there is a rapid succession of tunnels 
and bridges, testifying to the en- 
gineering difficulties that had to be 
conquered. At 

Gotemba (Inns, Matsu-ya and 
Fuji-ya at station; the vill. is 12 
did distant), the passenger finds 
himself in the broad and fertile 



plain surrounding Fuji's base, a 
plain whose soil indeed has been 
formed by the outpourings of the 
great mountain during countless 
ages. Nothing here interrupts the 
view of the volcano from base to 
summit. The long-ridged wooded 
mountain immediately to the 1. of 
Fuji is Ashitaka. The range to 
the spectator's 1. from the carriage 
window is the Hakone range, the 
lowest point of which seen from 
here is the Otome-toge leading over 
to Miyanoshita. 

Gotemba derives its name from having 
been the seat of the hunting lodge of the 
great Shogun Yoritomo, when he came 
from his capital at Kamakura to hunt in 
the neighbourhood of Fuji. 

The gardens around Gotemba are 
gay with red camellia blossoms in 
spring. The Mitsumata (Edgeworth- 
ia papyrifera) is also to be seen in 
abundance. . 

At SilMO, there is a semi-European 
Hotel close to the waterfalls (Sano no 
taki), 12 dto from the station by 
jinrikisha. The water forming these 
fine falls comes from Lake Hakone, 
via the tunnel mentioned on p. 132. 
Keigashima, 17 did beyond the 
falls, is another picturesque spot, 
remarkable for its curious rocks and 
possessing a deserted shrine suitable 
for a picnic. 

One still has Fuji and Ashi- 
taka to the r., the other mountains 
from r. to 1. being Amagi-san in Izu, 
| Yahazu-yama (a small peak), Higa- 
ne-san on the other side of which 
lies Atami, the Hakone range, and 
in front, isolated as if let drop 
independently into the plain, Kano- 
I ki-yama. The railway turns West, 
1 and rejoins the old Tokaido at 

Nuinazu {Inn, Moto-doiya). 
! There is much marshy ground in 
! this neighbourhood, whence pro- 
j bably the name of the place {numa 
=" marsh"). Most persons, rather 
; than stay in Numazu itself, prefer 
i to go on 25 min. by jinrikisha to 
the vill. of Usliibnsc, on a beautiful 
landlocked bay which offers excel- 
lent sea-bathing. The Sekko Roku- 



266 



Route 34. — The Tokaido. 



dayu. inn, with detached apartments 
ensuring privacy, is recommended, 
as also the delightful walk along 
the coast to Enoara on the road to 
Shuzenji in Izu. It is about 

Suzukawa (Inn, K6shu-ya) that 
the nearest and most perfect view of 
Fuji is obtained. Nowhere else does 
the " Peerless Mountain " so ab- 
solutely dominate its surroundings. 
The beauty of the stretch of shore 
from here to the mouth of the 
Fujikawa, called Tago-no-ara, has 
been sung by a hundred Japa- 
nese poets. The Fujikawa is noted 
for its rapids (see p. 221). From 

Iwabuchi {Inn, *Tani-ya at sta- 
tion) to Okitsu is very beautiful, the 
space between the sea and a range 
of hills to the r. becoming so narrow 
as barely to leave room for the rail- 
way to skirt the shore. In the neigh- 
bourhood of 

Kambara, large fields of sugar- 
cane will be observed. 

The cultivation of the small but hardy 
Chinese variety of the sugar-cane (Saccha- 
rum siiiense) is carried on with fair success 
in the warmer provinces of Japan, such as 
Mikawa, Owari, Kishu, Southern Shiko- 
ku, and Satsuma. Being unable to with- 
stand the frosts of winter, it is planted out 
in March or April, and harvested not later 
than November. The cane which is used 
for planting is buried in a dry place to 
preserve it from the cold. In spring 
it is cut into pieces, which are planted out 
in the usual way. 

Okitsu (Inns, *Kaisui-ro, Mina- 
kuchi-ya ; the latter is semi-foreign, 
the former has arrangements for 
sea-bathing) has a lovely view of 
the Bay of Suruga, the large moun- 
tainous peninsula of Izu, and to 
the r. the point of land called Mio- 
no-Matsubara, celebrated alike in 
poetry and art. It is covered with 
pine-trees, is low and sandy, and 
hence more pleasant to look at 
than to walk on. Still further to 
the r. lie the Kuno-zan hills, with 
the white little sea-port town of 
Shimizu nestling at their base. 

At Mio-no-Matsubara is laid the scene 
of Ha-yoromo, or " The Robe of Feathers," 
one of the prettiest and most fanciful of 
the Japanese Lyric Dramas (A T 6 no Utai). 



A fisherman landing on this strand finds 
a robe of feathers hanging to a pine- 
tree, and is about to carry it off as treasure 
trove, when a beautiful fairy suddenly 
appears and implores him to give it back 
to her, for that it is hers, and without it 
she cannot fly home to the Moon, where 
she is one of the attendants on the thirty 
monarchs who rule that sphere. At first 
the fisherman refuses to grant her re- 
quest. He only does so when, after many 
tears and agonies of despair, she promises 
to dance for him one of the dances known 
only to the immortals. Draped in her 
feathery robe, she dances beneath the 
pine-trees on the beach, while celestial 
music and an unearthly fragrance fill the 
air. At last her wings are caught by the 
breeze, and she soars heavenward, past 
Mount Ashitaka, past Fuji, till she is lost 
to view. There is still a small shrine on 
Mio-no-Matsubara dedicated to this fairy, 
where a relic of her robe is shown. 

The Temple of Seikenji or Kiyomi- 
clera at Okitsu, belonging to the 
Zen sect of Buddhists, merits a 
visit, partly for the sake of the 
view, partly for the temple itself 
and the temple grounds, which 
even the railway, though it cuts 
through them, has not entirely 
spoilt. The very plain altar in the 
small chapel near the Hondo — a 
large hall paved with tiles — con- 
tains funeral tablets of all the 
Shoguns of the Tokugawa dynasty. 
In a side temple are forty brilliant- 
ly coloured figures, three-fourths 
life-size, of Bakan — old, but restor- 
ed in 1881. They were formerly 
kept in a tea-house in the town, 
which became a favourite resort, 
and brought in a considerable in- 
come to the priests. This, however, 
moved the townspeople to jealous} 7 
and dissatisfaction, for which 
reason the images were removed to 
their present site where money can 
no longer be made out of them. 
In the grounds are 300 (formerly 
500) stone images of Bakan. The 
creeping plum-trees (gioaryu-bai) 
in front of the temple are said to 
have been planted by Ieyasu's own 
hand. Besides the temple proper, 
a suite of rooms is shown, affording 
an example of the best style of 
Japanese domestic architecture. 
Built in 1865 for the use of the 
Shogun Iemochi, they have of late 



Kuno-zan. 



267 



been sometimes occupied by His Im- 
perial Highness, the Crown Prince. 

[A detour of 7 or 8hrs. to Knno- 
zan will afford the traveller 
a real multum in parvo,— splen- 
did views, superb temples, 
nearer acquaintance with Japa- 
nese town and country life off 
the beaten track. — The plan is 
to leave Yokohama by the first 
train, alight at Okitsu, and 
thence go by jinrikisha with 
two men, rejoining the railway 
at Shizuoka, where sleep. Sei- 
kenji, described above, is first 
visited ; thence through Ejiri 
(Inn, Kyo-ya), one of those 
smaller Tokaido towns which 
the railway has paralysed, and 
Shimizu, a neat bustling sea- 
port town ; and then strikes in- 
land to Tesshuji, a ruined 
temple on a low hill called 
Fudaraku-san, 4 did in height. 
Yamaoka Tetsutaro, writing- 
master to the present Mikado, 
collected funds for the restora- 
tion of this place ; but the 
money was squandered after his 
death, and the temple is no- 
thing, but the view simply 
magnificent, recalling a Claude 
Lorraine. At the beholder's 
feet stretches a green carpet of 
rice-fields, with the town of 
Shimizu and the curious square 
enclosures in the adjacent sea, 
used as fish-preserves to supply 
the needs of the inhabitants in 
stormy weather. The two pro- 
montories to the 1. are the 
Satta-toge and the point near 
Kambara, beyond which come 
Fuji, Ashitaka, and the Hakone 
range. The large peninsula of 
Izu extends the whole way 
round from 1. to r., like a 
gigantic scythe, forming the 
Gulf of Suruga, while much 
closer and smaller, making a 
bay within a bay, stretches the 
pine-clad promontory of Mio- 
no-Matsubara, which is from 
here seen to divide at the tip 



into three points like claws. 
Close to Tesshuji is another 
temple called Ryugeji, noted 
in the vicinity for its sotetsu 
(Cycas revoluta) and prickly 
pears — the latter a great rarity 
in Japan ; but the view, though 
good, is not comparable to that 
from Tesshuji. 

The way now leads back to 
the sea and along the sandy 
shore to the hamlet of Nekoya 
[Inn, Fukushima-ya) at the foot 
of Kuno-zan, one of a range of 
hills only some 500 ft. high, but 
fortress-like in steepness. Here 
was the first burial-place of the 
great Shogun Ieyasu, and the 
shrines here erected in his 
honour were the originals of 
which those at Nikko are but 
a more elaborate development. 
Travellers who are unable to 
go to Nikko, can therefore 
obtain an idea of what the 
Nikko temples are like by visit- 
ing Kuno-zan. According to 
some, leyasu's body still lies 
here, only a single hair or 
other minute portion having 
been transported to Nikko. The 
ascent to the temples is by a 
steep zigzag path cut in the 
living rock. A guide must be 
applied for at the shamusho, or 
temple office, near the top on 
the 1. The view over the sea 
from this temple office is 
glorious, but a still better one 
is obtained from a pine-tree 
called the Mono-mi no matsu. 
The headlands seen hence are 
T6me-no-saki, Wada no-misaki, 
and Omae-zalri. The temples, 
though "purified" to a certain 
extent by the pro- Shin to party 25 
years ago, retain their Buddhist 
ornamentation. The wooden 
effigy of a sacred horse 1. is 
by Hidari Jingoro. Up a flight 
of steps hence, we come r. to 
the drum- tower, and 1. to the 
side of the five-storied pagoda 
removed by the "purifiers" as 
savouring too much of Bud- 



268 



Route 34. — The Tokaido. 



dhism. Above these again are 
r., the kagura stage, the trea- 
sure-house or "godown," and a 
building formerly dedicated to 
the Buddhist god Yakushi, and 
now to the Shinto god Oyama- 
gui-no-Mikoto ; while 1. is the 
building where the sacred offer- 
ings are prepared. The oratory 
proper is painted red on the 
outside, black and gold withiu. 
Round the interior, hang pic- 
tures of the Thirty^-six Poetical 
Geniuses, and there is an elabo- 
rate bordering of phoenixes and 
chrysanthemums. A final flight 
of steps behind the oratory leads 
up to the stone tomb, which is 
an octagonal monolith. The 
annual festival at Kuno-zan is 
held on the 17th April. Services 
are also celebrated on the 17th 
of the other months. The tem- 
ple treasures are exposed to 
view in October, when the an- 
nual airing (mushi-boshi) takes 
place. On leaving Kuno-zan, 
the road first follows the sea- 
shore and then turns inland, 
reaching Shizuoka in about 
1 hr.] 

Between Okitsu and 

Ejiri (Inn, Kyd-ya), there is a 
view of Mio-no-Matsubara. After 
leaving Ejiri, the line turns inland 
to avoid the Kuno-zan hills. 

Shizuoka (Hotels, *Daito-kwan, 
foreign style ; Kiyo-kwan), formerly 
called Sumpu, is the capital of the 
prefecture of the same name and 
of the province of Suruga. It is a 
clean, airy, flourishing city, noted 
for its manufactures of cheap lacquer 
ware, delicate basket-work in curious 
and beautiful shapes, and fine bam- 
boo plaiting used to cover egg-shell 
porcelain cnps which are brought 
from the province of Mino. The 
tea produced at Ashikubo, a vill. 2 
ri distant, ranks second only to that 
of Uji. 

Historically, Shizuoka is remarkable 
chiefly as the place where Ieyasu chose to 
.spend the evening of his life in learned 
leisure, leaving his son Hidetada to carry 



on the government at Yedo. Here for the 
first time many of the treasures of Japa- 
nese literature, which had hitherto exist- 
ed only in manuscript, were put into 
print. Shizuoka is now the place of 
retirement of the ex-Shogun Keiki, who 
lives there in quiet seclusion as a private 
gentleman. 

An afternoon is enough for the 
sights of Shizuoka, which consist of 
the ruins of the former castle, and 
of two fine temples — Rinzaiji and 
Sengen. All that remains of the 
Castle are the decaying walls and 
the moats. Within its enclosure 
stands the Prefecture, a hideous red 
brick building. The Court House 
and Normal School are outside the 
moat, on the S. side. 

The Buddhist temple of Rinzaiji 
lies 8 cho away from the city, at the 
foot of a range of wooded hills. It 
belongs to the Zen sect, and is noted 
for its connection with Ieyasu and 
for the number of objects of art 
which it contains. The little-room 
of only 4-J mats (yo-jo-han), where 
Ieyasu learnt to write, is shown, 
as are several scrolls, screens, pieces 
of lacquer and porcelain, etc., pre- 
sented by him to the temple in his 
old age. There is also a thread- 
bare but still beautiful piece of 
embroidery presented by the Mikado 
Go-Nara (A.D. 1527-1557), and a 
number of kakemono by Kano Masa- 
nobu, Chin Nampin, and other old 
masters. In the Hondo is a painted 
statue of Imagawa Yoshimoto, 
younger brother to Ujiteru, founder 
of the temple. Another painted 
statue represents the second abbot. 
The Honzon is Amida, a black image 
with a gold background. In a side 
chapel is preserved the wooden 
image of Marishi-ten, which Ieyasu 
— who for all his political and mili- 
tary genius, was not free from the 
superstitions of his time — used con- 
stantly to carry about with him 
as a charm. The visitor will also 
be shown a small pagoda- shaped 
gilt revolving book-case containing 
a complete set of the edition of 
the Bnddhist scriptures, printed 
for the first time with movable 



Shizuoka. 



26& 



types in 1888. The 1st and 2nd 
October are the great festival days 
at Rinzaiji. 

The Temple of Sengen, which 
stands at the N. limit of the town, 
was built under the superintendence 
of Okubo Hikozaemon, a personage 
famous in Japanese history as the 
minister and confidant of the Sho- 
gun Iemitsu. Though chiefly dedi- 
cated to the worship of Ko-no-hana- 
saku-ya-hime, alias Sengen, the 
beautiful Shinto goddess of Mount 
Fuji, it is constructed and decorated 
in the most ornate Buddhist style. 
Specially noteworthy are the 
wood-carvings. The grounds now 
serve as a public park. Entering 
by two handsomely carved wooden 
gates, the visitor finds himself in a 
large quadrangle, in the centre of 
which is a stage formerly used for 
the performance of the kagura dance 
by young girls. The interior of the 
oratory proper (go haiden no o- 
biroma) is a hall 63 ft. by 33 ft., 
with large solid pillars of keyaki 
lacquered red, two of which form 
at the same time the corner pillars 
of the upper storey. The two 
central compartments of the ceiling 
are painted with dragons, one 
called the Shiho no Byd, or " Dra- 
gon of the Four Quarters," because 
whatever quarter of the compass he 
be viewed from he seems to glare 
down directly at the spectator ; the 
other, Happo no Byd, or " Dragon of 
the Eight Quarters," because his 
glance is directed to every point of 
the circle. The former of these is 
by Yusen Hogan, the latter by 
Kano Motonobu. Eight other com- 
partments contain pictures of 
angels playing on musical instru- 
ments, also by painters of the 
Kano school. Two broad flights 
of steps behind the oratory lead 
up to a building containing two 
chapels, one dedicated to Sengen, 
the other to Onamuji. The two 
chapels are connected by a room in 
which a nightly watch was formerly 
kept by retainers of the Tokugawa 
family. Do not fail to notice 



the carvings on the gates leading to 
these twin chapels. One set repre- 
sents a lioness with her cub, and 
on a second panel her royal mate, 
— both surrounded by peonies, the 
king of flowers, as the lion is the 
king of beasts. Another set repre- 
sents hawks with pine-trees. Round 
the chapel itself are carvings of the 
pine-tree, bamboo, and plum-blos- 
som by Hidari Jingoro. The crest 
of a fan of feathers is that of the 
goblin Jtengu) who was god of 
Mount Oyama and father of the 
goddess of Fuji. 

Near the main quadrangle is a 
smaller building . called Sosha, 
formerly dedicated to Marishi-ten 
and now to the Shinto god Yachi- 
hoko-no-kami. It is the newest of 
all the buildings, and the decora- 
tions are therefore in better repair. 
In the curved roof of the porch a 
phoenix carved out of a single block 
of wood is very fine ; and all round, 
above the architrave, runs a series of 
delicate little groups representing 
the Twenty-four Paragons of Filial 
Piety. 

The stone lanterns in the grounds 
were presented by various Daimyos 
and Hatamotos. — Beyond the Mari- 
shi-ten temple, a broad flight of 
105 stone steps leads up to the 
Oku-no-in, which affords a good view 
of the town. 

The best excursion from Shizuoka 
is that by jinrikisha to Kuno-zan 
(3 ri) ; see pp. 267-8. 

From Shizuoka to Nagoya, a 
distance of 115 miles, the line for 
the most part ceases to skirt the 
sea, and runs over a flat country 
with low hills on one or both sides, 
or else among rice-fields. Spurs of 
the central range forming the back- 
bone of the country are, however, 
often seen far away to the r. Just 
outside Shizuoka we cross the 
Abekawa close to its mouth, and 
obtain a pretty glimpse of the sea 
with the small promontory of Kuno- 
zan and the large promontory of 
Izu, before passing through two long 



270 



Route 34.— The Tdkaldd. 



tunnels. The Oigawa is crossed after 
passing the station of Shimada. 

Kanaya (good accommodation at 
the Cliogetsu-kican, a bathing resort 
25 did from the station). Like all 
the rivers on this coast, the Oigawa 
has a bed out of proportion to the 
small volume of water that gene- 
rally flows down it, the bed being 
nearly a mile broad, while the 
actual stream is not more than 
some 50 yds. except in flood-time. 

_ In pre-railway days, the passage of the 
Oigawa was one of the most exciting- 
portions of the journey along the Tokaido. 
No ferry-boats could be used on -account 
■of the swiftness of the current, and travel- 
lers were carried across on small hand- 
platforms called rendai. The naked coolies 
who bore these aloft always chose the 
deepest parts of the stream, in order to 
impress their fares with a sense of the 
peril of the undertaking, and thus obtain 
the largest possible pourboire. This inci- 
dent of old-fashioned travel is pourtrayed 
in almost every set of coloured prints 
representing the "Fifty-three Stages of 
the Tokaido" (Tokaido G-o-ju-mn Tmgi). 

Kake*ra.wa (Inn Kyugetsu-ro) 

manufactures kuzu-ori, a sort of 
linen cloth woven from grass. 

[It is the station where those 
must alight who desire to visit 
the Temple of Akiha, some 12 
ri inland, of which the first 6ri 
as far as the vill. of Mikura are 
practicable for jinrikishas. The 
visitor may conveniently sleep 
at Sakashita some 4 J ri further 
on, at the base of the mountain 
on which the temple stands. 
The ascent, locally computed at 
50 did, is probably less. The 
last part commands an extensive 
and beautiful view, including 
the wide plain of Tofcomi with 
the sea beyond, towards which 
the broad white bed of the river 
Tenryu is seen winding its way. 

The temple of Akiha enjoys a wide 
reputation for sanctity, and is visited 
annually by crowds of pilgrims. Un- 
fortunately for the tourist of artistic 
and antiquarian tastes, all the beauti- 
ful Buddhist buildings in which 
Kwannon and other deities had for 
centuries been invoked, were de- 
stroyed by fire on the occasion of the 
great yearly festival in 1875, and the 



present temple was afterwards erec- 
ted in the bare, uninteresting style 
of Pure Shinto. It has been dedi- 
cated to Kagutsuchi-no-Mikoto, who 
is regarded by some as the God of 
Fire, but is more correctly explained 
as the God of Summer Heat.] 

Before reaching Hamamatsu the 
train crosses the Tenryu-gawa, 
whose celebrated Rapids form the 
subject of Koute 29. The Tenryu 
is the first of the three great rivers* 
from which the province of Mikawa, 
which the line here traverses, takes 
its name. The other two are the 
Ogawa (also called Oyagawa or 
Ohira-gawa) on this side of the 
station of 

Oka/aki, noted in history as the 
birthplace of the great Shogun Ie- 
yasu, and the Yahagi-gawa just 
beyond the same station. 

Nakaizumi (Inn opposite railway 
station). 

_ Haiuamatsn {Inns, * Hana-ya, 
Ogome-ya, each with a branch at 
the station) is the only place be- 
tween Shizuoka and Nagoya where 
the journey can be broken with 
any comfort. The town derives a 
peculiar appearance from the use 
of long projecting eaves which 
cause the houses to look as if about 
to tumble forward into the street. 
Just beyond 

Maisaka, w r e reach a large lagoon 
(Hamano no Mizu-umi), of whose 
beauties the railway affords but a 
passing glimpse while crossing its 
mouth on a long series of dykes 
and bridges, whence the roar of 
the breakers of the Pacific can be 
distinctly heard. 

Though called a lake in Japanese, this 
lagoon has now a narrow entrance about 
600 yds. across formed in the year 1499, 
when an earthquake broke down the 
sand-spit that had previously separated 
the fresh water from the sea. The pro- 
vince of Tofcomi derives ifcs name from 
this lake, which was called Totouu, a 
corruption of To-tsu-awa-umi, "the distant 
foaming sea," in contradistinction to Lake 
Biwa, named Chika-tm-aica-nmi, ** the 
near foaming sea," which gave its name 
to the province of Omi. 

Between Wasliizn and Toyolia- 

slli, a fine bronze image of Kwannon 



Atsuta. N a (joy a. 



271 



10 ft. high and dating from the 
year 1765, is seen perched r. on a 
pinnacle of rock. 

[The town of Toyokawa 9 2 \ ri 

N. of Toyohashi, possesses a 
large and famous Temple of 
Inari, which can be visited be- 
tween trains by taking a jin- 
rikisha with 2 men.] 

Between Goyn 9 where the line 
again touches the picturesque shore, 
and Kamagori there are delightful 
peeps of the sea, of the islets in the 
Bay of Toyohashi, and of the moun- 
tains of the provinces of Shima, 
Ise, and Iga beyond. After Okaza- 
ki comes a dull bit, flat and with 
rice-fields on either hand, or sand- 
hillocks and pine scrub ; but from 
Otaka the fine range separating the 
provinces of Ise and Omi rises 
ahead, and is kept in view all the 
way to 

Atsuta (Inns, Kikyd-ya near 
railway station ; Okada-ya near 
steamer landing-place). Foreigners 
rarely alight at this town, which is 
practically a suburb of Nagoya, 
unless they are bound to the 
temples of Ise (see pp. 245-6). It 
possesses, however, a fine set of 
Shinto temples of its own, from 
which it derives its alternative 
name of Miya. These temples, 
originally founded in A.D. 686, 
have recently been restored in Pure 
Shinto style, exactly on the lines 
of the Ise temples. Persons unable 
to spare time for visiting the latter 
may therefore, by stopping over a 
train at Atsuta, gain some notion 
of what Ise is like. The jinrikisha 
ride on to the next station, Nagoya, 
where they would probably break 
their journey in any case, is only 
some 4 miles. The official name of 
the temples is Atsuta Daijingu. 

The gods worshipped here are the Sun- 
Goddess Anmterasu, her brother Susa- 
no-o, Prince Yamato-take (see p. 66), the 
latter' s wife Miyazu-hime, and her brother 
Take-ina-tane. But the object really most 
venerated,— indeed, the raison d'etre of the 
temples and consequently of the town, — 
is the famous sword called Kum-nagi-no 
Wforugi, one of the three antique objects 



which form the Imperial regalia of Japan, 
the other two being a mirror and a jewel. 
This sword (so legend goes) was found by 
Susa-no-o in the tail of an eight-headed 
serpent, which he intoxicated with sake 
and then slew. Having 'been brought 
from heaven many centuries later by the 
first ancestor of the Mikados, it came into 
the possession of Yamato-take and assist- 
ed that Prince in the conquest of Eastern 
Japan. This treasure is never shown, but 
a great festival is held in its honour on the 
21st June. The outer box enshrining it 
has an autograph inscription by the pre- 
sent Emperor. The complete "legend of 
the sword Kusa-nagi will be found in 
the Kojihi ( Trans, of the Asiatic Soc. 
of Japan, Vol. X., Supplement, Sect. 
XVIII., LXXX1X, and LXXXIIL). At 
some little distance from the chief temple 
is another dedicated to a scarcely less 
sacred sword called Ta-tsurugi. The 
legend concerning itjis kept as an esoteric 
secret. 

Nsigroya (Inns, Shinachu, also 
called Hotel du Progres, foreign ;• 
*Shukin-r6). ' 

This flourishing commercial city, the 
largest on the Tokaido, capital of the 
Province of Owari and of the prefecture 
of Aichi, was formerly the seat of the 
Prince of Owari, whose family was closely 
allied to that of the Tokugawa Shoguns, 
the founder of the house of Owari having 
been a son of Ieyasu. Their fief was 
rated at 550,000 kokn of rice, and the Owa- 
ri' s ranked as one of the " Three August 
Families" (Go San-ke), entitled to furnish. ' 
a successor to the Shogun's throne in 
default of an heir. Their castle, which is 
still one of the wonders of Japan, was 
erected in 1610 by twenty great feudal 
lords, to serve as the residence of leyasu's 
son. In the early years of the present 
regime it was handed over to the Military 
Department; and the beautiful decora- 
tions of the Prince's dwelling apartments 
suffered, as did so much else in Japan, 
from the almost incredible vandalism and 
vulgar stupidity of that period,— common 
soldiers, or officers as ignorant as they, 
being allowed to deface the priceless wall- 
paintings of a Tan-j^u, a Motonobu, and a 
Matahei. This desecration is now happily 
put an end to, though much irreparable 
damage has been done. The castle has 
been taken over by the Imperial House- 
hold Department, to be preserved as a 
monument of historic interest. The two 
golden dolphins [kin no shack i-hoko), which 
can be seen glittering all over the city 
from the top of the five-storied donjon 
(tenthu), were made in 1610 at the cost of 
the celebrated general, Kato Kiyomasa, 
who also built the keep. One of them 
was sent to the Vienna Exhibition of 
1873, and on its way back was wrecked in 
the Messageries Maritime* Steamer "Nil." 
Having been recovered with great diffi.- 



272 



Route 34.— The Tokaido. 



culty, it was finally restored to its original 
position, much to the satisfaction of the 
citizens. The golden dolphins measure 
87 ft. in height, and are valued at $180,000. 

Nagoya is noted for its manufac- 
ture of porcelain, cloisonne, and 
fans. The principal dealers are : 

Porcelain. — Takito, Matsumura. 
At the latter the processes of 
manufacture can be inspected. 
Those interested in porcelain should 
compare Eoute 31, p. 214. 

Cloisonne. — Honda, Kodama, Ta- 
keuchi. Processes of manufacture 
shown to visitors. 

Fans. — Ohashi, Matsuo. 

Silk Mercers. — Ito, Daimaru. 

There are many lesser but good 
shops for all the above articles ; 
also several bazaars (kwanJcoba) for 
-articles of general utility. Five or 
six large cotton-mills have been 
started of late years, and the em- 
broidering of handkerchiefs has 
taken a considerable place among 
the local industries. 

Theatre. — Suehiro-za. 

The Museum contains a collection 
of the various manufactures of the 
prefecture. 

It may be worth spending a day 
at Nagoya to see a flourishing pro- 
vincial town. Though the Castle 
is now inaccessible except to visitors 
of special distinction, all may in- 
spect Nagoya's second greatest sight 
— the Higashi Hongwanji Temple — 
the Museum, and the minor temples 
described below. The evening may 
be agreeably whiled away by going 
the round of the bazaars. 

The Castle (O Shiro).—The space 
between the inner and outer moats, 
now containing extensive barracks 
and parade-grounds, was formerly 
occupied by quarters for the 
Prince's samurai or retainers, of- 
fices civil and military, etc. Pass- 
ing into the inner enclosure over a 
moat now dry and used to keep 
tame deer in, the traveller is first 
shown through the Apartments, — a 
beautiful wreck, for mats and 
furniture are gone and the walls 
are considerably defaced, but very 



fine nevertheless. The sliding 
screens ( fusuma ) between the 
rooms, the alcoves (tokonoma), and 
the wooden doors separating the dif- 
ferent sets of Apartments are all 
decorated with paintings of flowers, 
birds, etc., chiefly by artists of the 
Kano school, such as Eishin, Moto- 
nobu, and Tari-yu. One room has 
cherry-blossoms and pheasants by 
Tosa - no - Mitsuoki. Another — the 
most attractive of all — has multi- 
tudinous scenes of popular life by 
Ukiyo Matahei. One specially 
gorgeous apartment, decorated by 
Tan-yu with ideal Chinese scenery, 
was reserved for the use of the 
Shogun when he came to visit the 
Prince his kinsman. Observe the 
difference of height between the 
inner and outer portion of this 
room, — the former (jodan) being 
for the Shogun himself, the latter 
(geclan) for those inferior persons 
who were graciously admitted to an 
audience. The ramma (ventilating 
panels) of this room have exquisite- 
ly faithful carvings of a crane and 
tortoise and of a cock perched on a 
drum, by Plidari Jingoro, who also 
carved the flowers and birds in 
certain other rooms. Leaving these 
apartments, one comes to a much 
humbler suite brought from Nobu- 
naga's castle at Kiyosu, and is then 
led into the donjon or keep, a 
gloomy five-storied building, all of 
stone without, but furnished with 
wooden staircases withim The well 
at the bottom, called Ogon-sui, or 
" the Golden Water," was dug by 
Kato Kiyomasa. The fifth storey 
commands an extensive view — the 
town of course, the sea, the im- 
mense plain of Owari and Mino laid 
out in rice-fields, and, limiting the 
horizon, the mountains of Ise, Iga, 
Omi, Echizen, Hida, Shinshu, and 
Totomi. 

No fee is accepted by the custo- 
dian of the Castle. 

Higashi Hongivanji, 

This wonderful Buddhist temple, where 
exterior and interior are both equally 
grand, dates in its actual shape from the 



Nagoya. 



273 



beginning of the present century. In l 
mediseval times a castle occupied its site, 
whence the castle-like walls that still 
surround the enclosure. On the occasion 
of the combined military and naval 
manoeuvres at Nagoya in 1890, the apart- 
ments were occupied by H. M. the Mikado. 

The two-storied gate-house, a 
magnificent structure in wood, has 
three portals, decorated with floral 
arabesques in relief on the lintel 
and posts ; and the gates have 
scrolls and open-work diapers, with 
solid bronze plates binding the 
framework together, the whole in 
excellent taste and style. On the 
further side of a spacious court 
rises the lofty main building, which 
looks two-storied, an effect pro- 
duced by the exterior colonnade 
having a roof lower than that of 
the main structure. The interior 
measures 120 ft. in length by 108 
ft. in depth, and is divided longi- 
tudinally into three parts, that in 
front being for the use of ordinary 
worshippers, the centre for the con- 
gregation on special occasions, and 
the innermost being the naijin, or 
chancel. This latter is divided into 
three compartments, the central one 
being occupied by the shumi-dan, 
a platform on which stands a 
handsome gilt shrine holding an 
image of Amida about 4 ft. high. 
Both the shumi-dan and the table 
in front are enriched with small 
painted carvings, that produce a 
glorious effect. L. of the chief shrine 
is a smaller one, containing a por- 
trait of the founder of the sect, taken 
from the effigy in the metropolitan 
temple at Kyoto. In the ramma 
along the front of the naijin are gilt 
open-work carvings of angels, with 
gilt carvings of the peacock and 
phoenix in the kaeru-mata above. 
The heavy beams of the ceiling are 
supported by excellent carvings of 
lotus-flowers and leaves. In some 
of the kaeru-mata over these beams 
are spirited carvings of conven- 
tional lions. The ceiling itself is 
unpainted, and divided into coffers 
about 3 ft. square. The compart- 
ments r. and 1. of the altar have gilt 



coppered ceilings. In the kaeru- 
mata of the external colonnade are 
well-conceived groups of super- 
natural beings, — Gama Sennin with 
his frog, Kinko riding on the carp, 
Koan on the tailed tortoise, O-Shiko 
riding on his crane, Ka-Shinjin 
administering medicine to the 
dragon, the umbrella miraculously 
flying back to Shoichi through the 
air, and two carrying baskets of 
fish. The series is continued round 
the sides by the crane, the lion, and 
the flying dragon. As usual in 
Hongwanji temples, there is another 
building called the Jiki-do, connect- 
ed with the main building by a gal- 
lery resembling a bridge. Though 
much less elaborate than the main 
altar, the altar of the Jiki-do is yet 
a fine blaze of gold. R. and 1. of 
the central image of Amida, are 
some charming gold sliding screens 
representing mountain scenery. The 
apartments of the temple contain 
several kakemonos and other works 
of art, which are, however, generally 
stowed away in a godown. In 
front of the main gate is an avenue 
of drooping cherry-trees (shidare- 
zakura), which are very pretty in 
April. 

The remaining temples of Nagoya 
are much inferior. The following 
may be mentioned : — 

Eikokuji (close to the Higashi 
Hongwanji), in the courtyard of 
which is a stone with the imprint of 
Buddha's feet. They seem to have 
been in proportion to his stature, 
which legend fixes at 16 ft. On the 
soles are representations of the 
wheel of the law (rimbo), fishes, etc. 
Nishi Hongwanji, not to be com- 
pared with the Higashi Hongwanji 
for size and beauty. In the kaeru- 
mata above the altar are groups 
of the Four-and-Twenty Paragons 
of Filial Piety. 

Nanatsu-dera, the interior walls 
of which are gilt and decorated with 
good paintings of angels. The large 
bronze image on the verandah repre- 
sents either Dainichi or Amida — 
which of the two is not quite certain. 



274 



Boute 34. — The Tokaido. 



Go Hyahu Rahan (properly Dai- 
ryuji). It is worth applying to 
the custodian for admittance to 
the gallery behind, where are kept 
five hundred images of Buddha's 
chief disciples, mostly about 2 ft. 
high, all brightly painted, and all 
different. Some are smiling, some 
are solemn, some are fierce, some 
stupid-looking, some have a super- 
cilious air, some an air of smug 
self-satisfaction, some few are lying 
down, others are praying, others 
again have their arms extended in 
the attitude of benediction, one has 
three eyes, one holds a tiger-cub in 
his arms, others ride on horses, 
elephants, phoenixes, and so on 
almost ad infinitum. No wonder 
the Japanese say that among the 
Five Hundred Rakan, every specta- 
tor can find the likeness of his own 
father by dint of a little search- 
ing. 

Nagoya, like most other large 
towns, possesses a number of new, 
uninteresting buildings in the style 
or no style known in the Japan of 
to-day as " foreign." Such are the 
Prefectural Office, the Post and 
Telegraph Office, the Hospital, the 
Normal School, the Court Houses, 
etc., etc. 

The only excursion to be recom- 
mended in the neighbourhood of 
Nagoya is to the potteries of Seto 
between 5 and 6 ri distant. See 
p. 244. 

From Nagoya on to Kusatsu the 
railway line deserts the old Tokaido, 
and, though called the Tokaido 
Railway, really follows the Naka- 
sendo. Quitting Nagoya, the train 
wends on through more and ever 
more rice-fields, with blue moun- 
tains far ahead, somewhat to the 1. 
They are the mountains dividing the 
provinces of Owari and Mino from 
those of Omi and Ise. Fourteen 
miles out of Nagoya, the line crosses 
the Kisogawa, the river whose 
upper course forms so beautiful a 
portion of the Nakasendo (see p. 
280), and which is picturesque even 
here near its mouth. 



On the 28th October, 1891, Central Japan 
was convulsed by one of the greatest 
earthquakes on record. Severely felt over 
an area equal to that of England, the 
most disastrous effects were confined to 
the fertile plain of the provinces of Mino 
and Owari, with its thickly populated 
towns and villages, which included places 
of such magnitude as Nagoya, the fourth 
city of the_Ernpire ; Gifu with 30,000 in- 
habitants ; Ogaki, Kasamatsu, and Take- 
gahana. The last two were totally des- 
troyed, fire having completed the ruin left 
by the first upheaval. A similar fate 
overtook scores of hamlets dotting the 
plain, and levelled to the ground the 
almost continuous line of houses which 
stretched along the old highway from 
Nagoya to Gifu, a distance of 19 miles. 
Large brick buildings in Nagoya and in 
Osaka, 75 miles from the sea.t of maximum 
disturbance, collapsed like a house of 
cards. Railway communication_was in- 
terrupted between Atsuta and Ogaki, a 
distance of 32 miles, and was not entirely 
restored until the 16th April, 1892. No- 
thing, indeed, showed the violence of the 
earthquake wave so markedly as the 
shattered cast-iron piers of the great 
bridge spanning the Nagara-gawa, whose 
embankments also subsided, leaving the 
rails suspended in mid-air. Even more 
titanic were the forces at work in the 
valley of the Neo {Neo-dani) some 10 miles 
N. of Gifu. Great landslips took place, 
mountains were dislodged, mud geysers 
appeared, and many houses sank out of 
sight in huge earth-fissures. Altogether, 
about ten thousand people perished, twen- 
ty thousand were wounded, and one hun- 
dred and twenty-eigVit thousand houses 
were 1 destroyed. 

The lesson plainly taught by this terri- 
ble calamity was the duty of building 
solidly. Flimsy structures whether of 
wood or brick were shattered in an in- 
stant, whereas the solid ma sonry _of the 
castle of Nagoya and even that of Ogaki, 
which was close to the centre of distur- 
bance, showed scarcely a trace of the 
shock. 

Gifu (Inns, * Tamai-ya, Tsuno- 
kuui-ya) is an important place, and 
capital of the prefecture of the same 
name, which includes the two pro- 
vinces of Mino and Hida. A conical 
hill named Inaba-yama, E. of the 
town, was the site of a castle built 
by the great warrior Ota Nobunaga. 
Raw silk and the silk of the wild 
silkworm are produced in large 
quantities in the neighbourhood, 
most of it being woven into crape. 
In this the glittering threads of the 
wild silk, which take|f the dyes in a 
less degree than that of the ordinary 



Gifu. , Waterfall of Yoro. 



275 



^silkworm, are introduced to form 
the pattern. The mon-chirimen 
woven in this manner is a very 
handsome fabric. Gifu is also noted 
for its paper-lanterns (said to be the 
hest in Japan) and other paper- 
wares, the mino-gami being univer- 
sally prized. 

In the summer-time it may be 
worth staying over a night at Gifu, 
in order to see an extremely curious 
.method of fishing with the help of 
cormorants (Ukai) on the River 
Nagara. The traveller is referred 
for a description of this to the arti- 
cle entitled " Cormorant Fishing " 
in Things Japanese. On nearing 

Ogaki (Inns, Kyomaru-ya at the 
station ; Tama-ya), the castle of 
the former Daimyo, now Viscount 
Toda, with one turret in fairly good 
preservation, is seen 1. of the line. 

[Not to the hurried tourist, but to 
the leisurely lover of Old Japan 
and her ways, a day or two at 
Yoro, in this neighbourhood, is 
much to be recommended. The 
plan is to alight at Ogaki sta- 
tion, there take a jinrikisha over 
the plain through the vill. of 
Tahada (2J ri) to Ishibata (10 
chd more), and thence walk 
the last \ ri to Yoro, which 
stands on the flank of the 
mountain ridge of the same 
name. One may return either 
the way one came, or else to 
Tarui station, about same dis- 
tance, or Seki-ga-hara, nearly 
1 ri longer. Seki-ga-hara is 
the best station from which to 
approach Yoro when coming 
from the Kyoto direction. 

The raison d'etre of the little 
village of Yoro (Inns, *Kiku- 
sui-ro, Murakami), of the gar- 
dens, and of the fine Kairaku- 
sha club-house dating from 
1880, is the celebrated water- 
fall called Yoro-ga-taki. 

This name, which may be translat- 
ed as "the Cascade of Filial Piety," is 
explained by the following legend : - 
In A.D. 717 there lived a wood-cutter 
:S0 filial in his conduct that he was 



wont to expend the proceeds of his 
toil on sake for his aged father, 
whose grand passion was strong 
drink. As a reward for such exem- 
plary piety, there was one day reveal- 
ed to him the existence of this cas- 
cade, which consists (or at least con- 
sisted at that time) of pure and 
excellent sake. The legend forms a 
favourite subject of Japanese art. 
Both the Kiku-sui-ro inn and 
i the Kairakusha club command 
lovely views of the broad sweep 
of the Mino plain, with On take, 
Ena-san, and other mountains 
beyond. Very charming too is 
the thoroughly Japanese ar- 
rangement of the park, and the 
walk up to the waterfall through 
5 chd of cherry and maple-trees. 
The fall itself, which is 70 ft. 
high (not 105 ft., as local 
fondness pretends), is embosom- 
ed in maple-trees. The rock 
on either side contains fossil- 
ferns, known as Shinobn-scki. 
Yoro is a cool place in summer. 
In winter the Shimo-ike, a large 
mere a little over 1 ri distant 
in a S.E. direction, swarms with 
wild-geese, duck, etc., which 
are taken by means of nets, 
and at all seasons with eels, 
carp, and perch, which help to 
supply the Kyoto fish-market. 
The distance to the summit of 
Yoro-yama is locally estimated 
at 2 ri. A most extensive view 
rewards the climber. . While 
in this neighbourhood, one 
might visit the marble quarries 
of Akasaiva-yama, also called 
Kinsbo-zan, 1 ri 10 chd from 
Ogaki in the direction of Tarui, 
and the celebrated temple of 
Tanignmi-dera, some 7 ri to 
the N. of Tarui by a jinriki- 
sha road. This temple is the 
thirty-third and last of the 
Places Sacred to the Goddess 
Kwannon (see Ete. 42). Of the 
many inns that have sprung up 
near it, the best are the Masu- 
ya and Kame-ya.] 
There are inferior inns at the 
small stations of 
Tarui and Seki-ga-hara. 



276 



Route 34.— The Tokaido. 



Seki-ga-hara takes its name, which 
means literally "Moor of the Barrier," 
from the barrier of Fuwa (Futva no seki) 
established at this spot in A.D. 673 by the 
Emperor Temmn, it having been a Japa- 
nese custom from the earliest period down 
to the beginning of the present reign to 
hamper free communication throughout 
the country by means of barriers near the 
capital, which none might pass without a 
special permit. Seki-ga-hara is celebrated 
in Japanese history as the scene of a 
decisive battle fought in the year 1600 
between Ieyasu and Hideyori, son of the 
great, Hideyoshi, in which Ieyasu triumph- 
ed. His camp at Seki-ga-hara was on 
a level piece of ground among the hills on 
the 1. side of the road, near a hamlet 
called Nogami-mura. 

Here the long journey across the 
plain terminates, and the Tokaidd 
Railway again enters diversified 
scenery, as it plunges among the 
hills that enclose beautiful Lake 
Biwa. 

Between Seki-ga-hara and 
Nagaoka the gradient is steep, 
the line being led up a narrow valley 
opening out on a small plain devoted 
to the cultivation of the mulberry- 
tree. The tall bare mountain fre- 
quently seen looming up to the r. 
during this portion of the journey 
is Ibuki-yama (about 4,300 ft.), one 
of the " Seven High Mountains " of 
Central Japan, and noted in the 
early Japanese pharmacopoeia for 
its wealth of medicinal plants. 

The " Seven High Mountains " are Hiei- 
zan, Hira-yama in 6mi, Ibuki-yama, Kim- 
pu-zan (or Online) near Yoshino, Atago- 
san in Yamashiro, Tonomine, and Kazu- 
raki-yama. 

Passing among pretty, pine-clad 
hills we reach 

Maibara (Inn, Itsutsu-ya at the 
station), whence all the way on to 
Baba, the_station for the important 
town of Otsn, the line runs along 
the basin of Lake Biwa, though 
unfortunately not near enough to 
the shore to allow of many glimpses 
of the lake being obtained. The 
whole scenery is, however, pretty — 
and pretty in a way of its own. 
Quite close, to the 1., is the range 
of hills forming the southern rim 
of the Lake Biwa basin; faraway 
to the r., in the dim distance, are 



the blue mountains enclosing the 
lake on the N., while immediately 
on either side of the line is a fair 
cultivated plain. At 

Hikone (Inns, Raku-raku-tei,. 
Matsu-ya), the former Daimyo's 
castle is seen r. on a wooded hill. 
Before reaching 

Notogawa, the rivers Serigawa, 
Inukami-gawa, and Echigawa are 
crossed. The cone of Mikami-yama, 
also called Mukade-yama, shaped 
like Fuji but thickly wooded, begins 
to peep up from behind a nearer 
range of hills before reaching 

Knsatsn* Between this place 
and Baba, the most striking view 
on the whole Tokaidd W. of Shizu- 
oka is obtained on crossing the long 
bridge that spans the Setagawa,. 
where the lake opens out beautifully 
for a few minutes. From 

Baba or Otsw (Inn, Minarai-tei, 
foreign style), the line jpasses 
through a tunnel under Osaka- 
yama (nothing to do with the city 
of Osaka), before reaching the small 
station of 

Otani, where it emerges on a 
narrow valley. The hills are cover- 
ed with that thick growth of pine- 
trees which characterises all the 
country round about Kyoto. 

[For further details concerning 
the portion of the Tokaido 
Route_ lying between Maibara 
and Otani, see Route 40, en- 
titled Lake Biiva.] 

The train then passes through 
the stations of 
Yamasliina and Inari. Over 

11,000 pilgrims alight yearly at this 
latter place on the occasion of the 
yearly festival of the Shinto temple 
of Inari, for which see Route 39. 
The train then enters the old 
capital, 

Kyoto, fully described in Rout& 
39, after which it crosses a wide 
plain, and passes through several 
minor stations before reaching the 
great commercial town of 

Osaka, described in Route 38. 
From Osaka onwards, the hills in 



Route 35. — The Nakasendo. 



277 



the distance to the r. begin to draw 
in, the broad fruitful plain rapidly 
contracts until it becomes a mere 
strip fringing the sea-shore, and at 
the station of 

Nishinomiyn, there begins to rise 
r. the screen of somewhat barren 
hills that help to give Kobe its good 
climate by protecting that part of 
the coast from wintry blasts. The 
high land seen in the distance 
across the water is not, as might be 
supposed, an island, but a portion 
of the province of Izumi. At Nishi- 
nomiya stands a small but famous 
Temple of Ebisu, one of the seven 
gods of Luck, to which immense 
crowds of worshippers flock on the 
First Day of the Horse {Hatsu-uma) 
of the First Moon, O.S., — generally 
some day in February. This part 
of the country is one of the chief 
centres of the sake manufacture. 
The three tunnels passed through 
on this section of the journey are 
remarkable as going under river- 
beds. Owing to the proximity of 
the neighbouring mountains to the 
sea, quantities of sand and stones 
are swept down whenever the 
•streams are swollen by rain. As a 
consequence of this, the river-beds 
tend constantly to raise themselves 
more and more above the general 
level of the country, which they 
traverse like dykes. Occasionally 
of course a dyke breaks down, and 
then there is an inundation with 
attendant loss of life and property. 
Soon after passing through 

Siimiyoslii, an insignificant place 
not to be confounded with the well- 
known Sumiyoshi near Sakai, the 
train runs in to 

Sannomiya, and the long jour- 
ney is at an end, Sannomiya being 
the station for the foreign settle- 
ment of Kobe. To go on one 
station further, to what is tech- 
nically called 

Kobe, would carry the traveller 
past his destination into the native 
town. It must therefore be dis- 
tinctly borne in mind that if bound 



for Kobe, one must book only as 
far as Sannomiya. 

[For Kobe and Neighbourhood, 
see Route 37.] 



EOUTE 35. 

The Nakasendo. 

Itinerary of the Nakasendo from 
Karuizaiua to Gifu. 

KAEUIZAWA to :— 

Ri. Clio. M. 

Kutsukake 1 10 3 

Oiwake 1 6 2g 

Otai 1 12 3J 

Iwamurata 1 3 2f 

Shionada 1 16 3J- 

Yawata 23 If 

Mochizuki 33 2| 

Ashida 1 9 3 

Nagakubo 1 13 3| 

Wada 2 — 5 

SHIMO-NO-SUWA 5 23 13f 

Shiojiri 2 30 7 

Seba 1 28 4J 

Motoyama 28 2 

Niekawa 2 — 5 

Narai 1 29 4J 

Yabuhara 1 12 3J 

Miyanokoshi 1 35 4g 

FUKUSHIMA.... 2 11 5| 

Agematsu 2 11 5J 

Suwara 3 7 7f 

Nojiri 1 29 4J 

Midono 2 11 5f 

Tsumago 1 8 3 

Magome 1 34 45 

Ochiai 1 7 3 

NAKATSU-GAWA 1 — 2 J 

Oi 2 25 6| 

Okute 3 13 8§ 

Hosokute 1 26 4J 

Mitake 2 33 7 

Fushimi 1 8 3 

Ota 1 32 4J 

Unuma 2 10 5£ 

Kano 4 7 10J 

GIFU 24 If 

Total 64 4 156J 



278 



Route 35. — The Nakasendo. 



The Nakasendo, or Central Mountain 
Road, is so named in contradistinc- 
tion to the Tokaido or Eastern Sea 
Road, and the comparatively unim- 
portant Hokuroku-do, or Northern Land 
Road in Kaga and Etchu, between 
which it occupies a middle position. It 
runs from Tokyo to Kyoto, passing through 
the province sjof Musashi, Kotsuke, Shin- 
shu, Mino, Omi, and Yamashiro. The 
road seems to have been originally con- 
structed early in the 8th century. Legend- 
ary history states, however, that in the 
reign of the Emperor Keiko (A.D. 71-130), 
Ms son, Prince Yamato-take, crossed over 
the Usui Pass during his conquest of East- 
ern Japan, suggesting the inference that 
some kind of track was believed to have 
existed there from the very earliest times. 
The railway route closely follows the an- 
cient highway over the Tokyo plain, and 
is flat and uninteresting till Takasaki is 
left behind. 

Though, properly speaking, the 
Nakasendo runs the whole way from 
Tokyo to Kyoto, the portion between 
Karuizawa and Gifu is the only one 
now usually done by road, the Tokyo- 
Karuizawa Railway, described in 
Route 10, having replaced the Naka- 
sendo across the plain of Tokyo, and 
the final flat piece between Gifu and 
Kyoto being also now travelled over 
by the Tokaido Railway (see Route 
34). The distance between Karui- 
zawa and Gifu may be accomplished 
in 6 days. Jinrikisbas with two men 
are practicable as far as the Wada- 
toge, after which point it is only pos- 
sible to use them on the flat portions 
of the road ; but three or four coolies 
can take one right through. The 
distance by road may be shortened 
by taking train to Tanaka on the 
Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway, 1J hr. 
from Karuizawa. Travellers coming 
from the direction of Naoetsu and 
desirous of joining the Nakasendo, 
should alight at Uecla (see Route 25). 
Those coming from the Kyoto direc- 
tion are advised to engage jinriki- 
sbas at Gifu for the through journey 
to Karuizawa. At' the latter place 
it is more difficult to make such an 
arrangement for the journey to Gifu. 

The Nakasendo traverses moun- 
tainous, sparselycultivated districts, 
remote from populous centres, and 
the peasantry alung portions of 
the route have a poverty-stricken 



appearance. The accommodation,, 
however, is fairly good. Milk, beer,, 
potatoes, etc., may be procured at 
several places. The best time for 
travelling along the Nakasendo is 
the summer or autumn. Between 
January and April this route is not 
to be recommended, on account of 
the snow — especially on the passes*. 

After passing through 

Kilts askake (Inn, Masu-ya), and 
Oi wake (Inn, Nakamura), the latter 
a place once possessing some im- 
portance, but now ruined by the 
railway having diverted the traffic 
from the old highway, the Nakasendo 
makes a sharp turn to the 1., and 
gradually descends the grassy base 
of Asama-yama. 

[For the ascent of this volcano 
see p. 152.] 

The ample sweep of the moun- 
tain is calculated to impress the 
beholder, and the walk over the 
springy turf is most exhilarating. 
Large blocks of lava lying scat- 
tered about in all directions attest 
the violence of the eruption which 
occurred in 1783, when Oiwake and 
other places in the vicinity were 
completely destroyed. The track of 
the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway is 
crossed about 1 ri after leaving Oi- 
wake. 

Iwamnrata. (Inn, Wakamatsu- 
ya) w r as formerly the seat of a small 
Daimyo, Naito Wakasa-no-Kami. 

[At this place a road branches 
off 1. to Kofu via the Tsuyutare 
Pass; see p. 123.] 

Beyond Shionada the road cross- 
es the Chikuma-gawa, also called 
Shinano-gawa, which, flowing north- 
ward, becomes one of the great 
rivers of Japan and falls into the 
sea at Niigata. Between Yaivata. 
and 

Mocliizuki (Inn, Kawachi-ya),. 
a fine view of Ya'tsu-ga-take and 
the mountains E. of Matsumoto is 
obtained, from a hill called Uryu- 
zaka. From Mochizuki the road 
gradually rises over undulating 
country formed' by the spurs of. 



From Karuizawa to Shi mo -no -Sine a. 



279 



Tatesbina-yama to Ashita, a poor 
vill. at the foot of the Kasatori- 
toge. The ascent of this pass, 3,200 
ft. above the sea, is short and easy, 
and from the tea-house at the top, 
the traveller can enjoy a glorious 
prospect. The summit of Asama- 
yama rises grandly above Gimba- 
yama, with lesser heights stretching 
away in a line to the 1., while 
below lies the wide moor that has 
just been traversed. At the foot of 
the pass on the other side (650 ft. 
down), is the village of 

Nagiikiibo {Inn, Yamazaki-ya). 

TYadii (Inns, Nagai, Kome-ya), 
lies at the N. E. foot of the pass of 
the same name (Wada-toge), the 
longest and highest on the Naka- 
Sendo, being 5,300 ft. above the 
level of the sea. Snow lies on it up 
to the end of April, but is seldom 
so deep as to block the road. 
Rather than stay overnight at 
Wada, which is often crowded in 
summer, most travellers prefer 
pushing on to the cluster of tea- 
houses (Kiso-ya and Tsuchi-ya are 
the best) collectively known as 

Higashi Mochiya, 5 did from 
the top of the pass. The glorious 
view from the summit may best 
be enjoyed by climbing one of 
the hills to the r. of the road, 
involving J hr. delay. To the N.E., 
rises Asama-yama ; to the S.E. 
Tateshina and Yatsu-ga-take ; S.W. 
the eye rests upon the basin of 
Lake Suwa ; further to the W. 
stand Koma-ga-take and Ontake, 
while to the N.W. a great portion 
of the Hida-Shinshu range is visible. 
The descent to Shimo-no-3uwa soon 
leads to a dull valley between hills 
of no great height, every avail- 
able nook of which has been brought 
under cultivation. The stone monu- 
ment passed on the way is to the 
memory of six warriors who, sur- 
prised here by the enemy, com- 
mitted harakiri rather than sur- 
render. This was in December, 
1863. 

Slii mo-no-Snwa (Inns* Mar u-ya r 
Kame-ya, Ogi-ya) lies, in a .', large 



basin, the greater part of which is 
occupied by Lake Suwa. It is 
celebrated for its hot springs, the 
principal of which, called Wata-no- 
yu, are situated at the top of the 
street where the Nakasendo turns to 
ther. and the Koshu Kaido branches 
off to the 1. The baths are quite 
clean ; the temperature, 113°. 9 F. 
According to the inhabitants, these 
waters contain silver. Of the 
two other principal sources in the 
vill., one called Ko-yu, which con- 
tains alum, has the high tempera- 
ture of 145°. 4 ; the other, called 
Tanga-yu, has a temperature of 
114°.8. As in the case of many 
Japanese spas, Shimo-no-Suwa is 
apt to be noisy of an evening. In 
the day-time it is busy with the 
silk industry. The only buildings 
of any interest at Shimo-no-Suwa 
are two temples dedicated to the 
Shinto goddess Yasaka-iri-hime 7 
one cf which is called Hkru-no- 
miya, or the Spring Temple, the 
other, Aki-no-miya, or the Autumn 
Temple. In the grounds of the 
latter stands a cryptomeria remark- 
able for its gigantic size. A quarter 
of an hour's walk takes one to the 
lake which is almost circular in 
form, having a diameter of about 1 
ri. Its depth is said to be 35 ft. 

Lake Suwa freezes over most winters so 
solidly that heavily laden pack-horses can 
cross over to Kami-no-Sutua, near the S.E. 
extremity of the lake, with perfect safety. 
The inhabitants do not, however, venture 
upon the ice until it has cracked across, 
believing this to be a sign from heaven: 
Some attiibute the cracking to the foxes. 
During the winter the fishermen make 
holes in the ice, through which they insert 
their nets and contrive to take a consider- 
able quantity of fish, especially carp. From 
the S. end of Lake Suwa issues the Ten- 
ryu-gawa, which flows into the sea on the 
Tokaido. For the descent of the fine 
rapids of this river, see p. 230. 

From Shimo-no-Suwa the Naka- 
sendo runs for some distance 
through rich rice fields extending 
to the edge of the lake. To the foot 
of the Shiojiri-toge is a distance of 
21 did. On looking back, views of 
Fuji are obtained from different 
points. The ascent ^of the pass- is 



280 



Route 35. — The Nahisendo. 



at first gentle, and in the steeper 
part there is a well-graded jinriki- 
sha road. But pedestrians will do 
best to take the older and steeper 
path, which saves time and affords 
finer views. The finest view of all 
is to be obtained from a slight 
eminence to the 1. of the road at 
the top, 3,340 ft. above the sea. 
Below lies the lake with villages 
studded over the adjacent plain. Of 
the high mountains that almost 
completely encircle the lake basin, 
Yatsu-ga-take is the most promi- 
nent. To the r. of the dip at the 
far-end of the lake, a portion of 
Fuji is seen behind the nearer range. 
The sharp peak further round to the 
r. is the Koshu Koma-ga-take, and 
further away rises the long summit 
of Shirane-san. A little further 
back, the top of Ontake is 
visible. Just behind are the lofty 
peaks of the range separating the 
plain of Matsumoto from the pro- 
vince of Hida. The descent on the 
other side is very easy. Ten cho 
beyond Shiojiri (Inn, Kawakami) 
a carriage road branches off at 
Daimon to Matsumoto (see p. 200), 
4J ri. Passing through Seha and 

Motoyama {Inn, Tamaki-ya), we 
come to some charming scenery on 
the banks of the Saigawa, and follow 
that river to IViegawa, where the inn 
kept by Okuya Dembei is the most 
comfortable to be found anywhere on 
this route. After Niegawa, the road 
crosses the river to Hirasawa, 
where cheap and useful lacquered 
articles are made in large quantities, 
and then re-crosses to 

Narai (Inns, Echigo-ya, Tokkuri- 
ya), 3,330 ft. above the sea at the 
foot of the Torii-toge. This steep 
pass, 4,200 ft. has been made easier 
by recent improvements in the 
road. From the top, the eye 
wanders over the valley through 
which flow the upper waters of the 
Kisogawa which is famous for its 
beauty. Hence the alternative 
name of the Kiso Kaido, by 
which the Nakasendo is sometimes 
mentioned. The foliage is very 



fine, — beeches, horse-chestnuts, wal- 
nut-trees, and maples, which in 
autumn blaze with every tint of red 
and yellow. 

The name of this pass is derived from 
the torii on the top, dedicated to Ontake, 
the summit of which sacred mountain is 
visible hence on a clear day. Strange as 
it may seem, two battles were fought on 
this spot in the 16th century, between 
some of the rival chieftains who, during 
that period of anarchy, disputed Eastern 
Japan amongst them. From the base of 
Asama-yama up to this point, the preva- 
lent formation is stratified rock which 
breaks up into small sharp pieces ex- 
tremely uncomfortable to the feet, while 
beyond it is chiefly granite which, when 
disintegrated, forms an excellent mate- 
rial for road-making. 

The descent to 

Yabuhara ( Inns, Kawakami, 
Kawashima-ya), 3,150 ft. above 
the sea, is by an easy gradient. 
The peasants, both male and female, 
of this neighbourhood wear a 
divided skirt of a peculiar cut. 
They also use an odd kind of 
spade, heavy and two-handled. The 
diggers stand opposite each other, 
one delving, the other using the 
second handle to assist in raising 
the blade for the next blow. Good 
potatoes are grown hereabouts, and 
are largely used, not only for food, 
but for the manufacture of spirits 
(shochu). 

[From Yabuhara a road follows 
the r. bank of the Kisogawa 
nearly up to its source, and 
passes over into the province of 
Hida.] 

The road now follows the 1. bank 
of the Kisogawa, crossing to the r. 
bank at a point where the valley 
contracts and begins to wind about. 
After passing 

Miyaiiokoshi (Inn, Tonari-ya), 
there* is a fine view near the village 
of Ueda of the Shinshu Koma-ga- 
take, which consists of several rugged 
peaks rising to an altitude of over 
10,000 ft. The lower hill in front is 
called Suisho-zan, from the fact 
that rock-crystals are found in it. 
All the available ground near Miya- 
nokoshi is planted with mulberry 



From Fiikwihima and Agematsu to Oi. 



281 



trees. Most of the silk produced 
finds its way to the loorns of Naga- 
hama in Omi. 

Fukushima (Inn, Suimei-ro, pic- 
turesquely situated) is a good-sized 
town extending along both banks of 
the Kisogawa. The portion of the 
route betwen Fukushima and Age- 
matsu surpasses all the rest of the 
Nakasendo both in charm and 
grandeur. Indeed, either Fuku- 
shima or 

Ageiuafsu {Inn, Hakuichi) would 
be a delightful place for the lover 
of mountain scenery to stay at for a 
few days. Both Ontake and the 
Shinshu Koma-ga-take can be con- 
veniently ascended from these points, 
and from the top of Koma-ga-take 
one may descend to the Ina Kaido 
for the rapids of the Tenryu-gawa 
(see Eoute 29). The ascent and 
descent on the other side could be 
done under favourable circumstances 
in one extremely long day ; but it is 
better to stop at the hut recom- 
mended on p. 243, or at another 
lower down. 

The next object of interest on the 
road is the monastery of JRinzenji, 
from the grounds of which a steep 
path descends to a platform of rock 
known as Nezame no Toko, or "the 
Bed of Awakening." 

This curious name is derived from a 
local tradition which avers that Urashima, 
the Japanese Rip Van Winkle (see p. 
65), awoke in this spot from his long 
dream. Others, more matter-of-fact, ex- 
plain the name to mean that the view 
" wakes up," that is, startles those who 
come upon it. 

Besides the " platform," there are 
other rocks, precipitous and pic- 
turesque, to which fanciful names 
have been given, such as the Screen 
Rock, the Mat Rock, etc. A native 
guide-book says. " The wonderful 
scenery at this spot surpasses even 
the most magnificent prospects in 
other parts. Its noble character 
can scarcely be fully appreciated by 
the mind, or adequately described in 
language " (!) 

The Namegawa is next crossed by 



a bridge which affords a fine view of 
Koma-ga-take up the gorge. A little 
beyond this on the 1., just before 
reaching Ogiwara, is the Cascade of 
Ono. Fifteen cho further on stands 
the vill. of Tatsumachi, and 1J 
ri more journeying brings the travel- 
ler to 

Siiwara (Inn, Sakura-ya), which 
lies in a more open part of the 
valley, near to the level of the river. 
At Hashiwa, a hamlet beyond Su- 
wara, skins of the great falcon 
(kuma-taka) and of the sheep-faced 
antelope (iwa-shika) are hung out 
for sale. From 

Nojiri (Inn, Furu-ya) to 

Midouo (Inn, Miyagawa) is the 
narrowest part of the valley ; the 
rocks are steep, and the road over- 
hangs the rushing stream. In many 
places it is laid on ledges built out 
from the rock, and at one point passes 
over a projecting rock by means of 
two bridges thrown across deep 
gullies. Tsumago (Inn, Matsu- 
shiro - ya) is but a poor place. 
The road now ascends the Mago- 
me-toge by a gentle gradient. The 
summit commands an extensive 
view of the province of Mino, with 
its low-lying, somewhat bare and 
sandy hills. On the other side of 
the pass is the vill. of 

Ma go me (Inn, Kuno-ya), perched 
on the top of a wooded hill cut into 
terraces for the cultivation of rice. 
The descent from Magome is called 
the Jik-koku-toge, said to be a cor- 
ruption of Jik-kyoku, or " ten turn- 
ings." About 400 ft. below Magome, 
a post marks the boundary between, 
the provinces of Shinshu and Mino. 
Ochiai lies in a hollow by the side 
of an affluent of the Kiso-gawa, 
which latter river here again comes 
in sight to the r. The road now 
crosses the spurs of Ena-san until 
reaching 

Nakatsii-gawa (Inn, *Hashiriki), 
which is situated close to the base 
of that mountain (see p. 243). From 
here the way is mostly hilly on to 

*)i (Inn, Ishikawa). 



282 



Route 36. — Voyage from Yokohama to Kobe. 



[Between Oi and Mitake, a dis- 
tance of 8 ri along the Naka- 
sendo, 1 ri may be saved by 
diverging along branch roads 
called the Shimo Kaido and 
Naka Kaido, passing through 
the village of Kamado (Inn, 
Suzuki), and avoiding the climb 
over the Ju-san-toge. On this 
route lies a gorge lined with 
great black boulders of curious 
shape, known by such names 
as the " The Devil's Washing- 
Basin," "The Hanging Bell 
Rock," etc. Crystals and peb- 
bles of various colours are found 
here. The Shimo Kaido also 
leads to Nagoya via Oiwake and 
Utsutsu, about 18 ri, mostly 
feasible for jinrikishas.] 

The road from Oi to Qkute lies 
over a succession of hills called the 
Ju-san-toge, or Thirteen Passes, 
none of which are very high. From 
an elevation above the Shichi-hon- 
matsu-zaka, or Hill of the Seven 
Pine-Trees, there is a grand view of 
both Ontake and Koma-ga-take. The 
general aspect of the surrounding 
hills is bare. 

Ok iite (Inn, Yamashiro-ya) is a 
neat town on the level. Between 
here and 

Hosolviife (Inn, Matsu-ya), the 
road passes over a series of hills 
called collectively the Bhva-toge. 
At Hosokute the traveller should 
ask for tsugumi, a kind of thrush 
preserved in yeast (koji-zuke), which 
is delicious when slightly roasted, 
and forms a welcome addition to 
monotonous travelling fare. Passing 
through 

Mitake (Inn, Kawaguchi-ya) and 
Fusliimi, we cross the Kisogawa to 

Ota (Inn, Iwai-ya), from which 
place the river is navigable. The 
road follows the r. bank of the river 
among pine-trees. Glimpses of the 
stream may now and then be caught 
as it foams over its rocky bed at the 
foot of dark, rugged hills, whose 
covering of dwarf trees looks at a 



distance like a veil of green gos- 
samer. Lower down, the Kisogawa. 
becomes a broad and deep river ; 
and the road, which crosses a level 
grassy plain, calls for little remark. 
Gifu (see p. 274:). 



ROUTE 36. 

By steamer from Yokohama to 
Kobe.* 

While steaming down Tokyo Bay,. 
there is a good view of Fuji with 
the Hakone range in the foreground 
on the r. ; on the 1. is the flat shore 
of the province of Kazusa. At 1 hr. 
the ship will be near Kwannon-zaki, 
on which there is a fixed white light 
visible 14 miles, showing a red ray 
in a certain direction to guide ves- 
sels clear of Saratoga Spit (Futtsu- 
saki) and .Plymouth Rocks to the 
southward. 

Powerful forts have been con- 
structed on Kwannon-zaki and on 
Saratoga Spit for the defence of the 
Bay. After passing Kwannon-zaki, 
the ship steers down the Uraga 
Channel, so called from the town 
of that name on the shores of a 
small harbour a few miles S.W. of 
Kwannon-zaki, which was formerly 
the port of entry for Tokyo Bay. 
At 2 hrs. Tsurugi-saki, the south 
end of the chanuel, is rounded, 
where there is a light visible 24 m. 
Thence the track lies S.W. to Rock 
Island across the Bay of SagamL 
which opens on the i\, and close 
past the north end of Vries Island, 
described in Route 8. From 4 to 
6 hrs. the ship will be running 
almost parallel to the coast of the 
peninsula of Izu, within 10 m. of 
the shore. A fine prospect may be 
enjoyed of its rugged mountain 



* The expressions ' at 1 hour,' 'at 2 
hours,' etc., in the description of this 
voyage, signify ' when the steamer has 
been 1 hour out of Yokohama,' '2 hours 
out of Yokohama,' etc., taking 12 knots 
per hour as the average speed. 



Whaling off the Coast of Kishu. 



283- 



chain, with Fuji which towers be- 
hind, bearing N.W. The island 
beyond Vries, looking like a cocked- 
hat, is Toshima, the second of 
the Seven Isles of Izu. At 6 
hrs. Rock Island (Mikomoto), off 
the extreme S. of Izu, is reach- 
ed ; on it is a fine light visible 
20 m. From Rock Island, the 
direct route is W.S.W. to the S.E. 
extremity of the province of Kishu. 
This course, which is followed in 
the summer months, leads the ship 
so far off shore that there is little 
to be distinguished. But in winter 
the N.W. winds generally blow so 
strongly that, to avoid the heavy 
sea, the ship, after passing Rock 
Island, is kept due W., crossing the 
mouth of Suruga Gulf, and at 9 
hrs, is off Omae-saki, distinguish- 
able at night by a red light visible 
19 m. Fuji is now 60 m. distant, 
and will not be seen much after this 
point except in clear winter weather. 
From Omae-saki the track recedes 
for some hours from the land, which, 
being low, is not particularly in- 
teresting ; and if the ship left Yoko- 
hama just before sunset, this part 
will be passed in the night. At 13 
hrs. the ship is off Owari Bay, a 
deep bay stretching some 30 m. to 
the northward, narrow at the en- 
trance, but widening out consider- 
ably inside. It is from Omae-saki 
to this point that the voyage is 
generally most trying to bad sailors. 
At 15 hrs. the ship is off Cape Shima, 
whence to Oshima is a run of 70 m., 
gradually approaching the land, 
where fine views of the bold and 
picturesque mountains of the pro- 
vinces of Kishu and Yamato are to 
be had. 

This Oshima is of course different from 
the Osliima (Vries Island )_ mentioned 
above. There are numerous Oshima's off 
the Japanese coast, • which is not to be 
wondered, at, as. the name simply means 
"big island." This particular Oshima has 
been the scene ' of repeated maritime dis- 
asters. The most terrible in recent years 
was -the foundering of the Turkish man-of- 
war "Ertougroul '' on the 16th September, 
1890, when 502 _ men perished out of a 
crew of 571.' ' Oshima and its neighbour- 



hood form an important whaling centre. 
The whaling guilds conduct their opera- 
tions according to an elaborate system, 
described by Rev. R. B. Grinnan in the 
Japan Mail. Minute laws regulate the 
construction of the boats and weapons 
employed, and the functions of the various 
classes of men engaged. The following 
description of the modus operandi is some- 
what condensed : — " The signals are a 
very important part of the work. Men 
with glasses are arranged on three differ- 
ent mountains, one above the other. The 
man from the highest point, being able to 
see furthest, gives the first notice as to 
the approach of a whale by lighting a 
fire and raising a smoke, and at the same 
time by means of his flag he signals to 
the men on the mountain below, and they 
in turn signal to the boats. It is neces- 
sary for the men in the boats to know 
beforehand what kind of whale is coming, 
also his size and distance from the land ;. 
for the attack differs according to these 
three things. The species of the whale is 
known in most cases by the manner in 
which the water is spouted up. The first 
thing to be done when the boats move 
out, is to put down the nets across the 
path of the whale. This is rather dim- 
cult to do correctly, for in the first place 
they must be arranged according to the 
species of the whale. Another thing to 
be calculated on is the strength and 
course of the tide. One fighting boat 
goes to each net boat, to assist in arrang- 
ing the nets in their proper order. Not 
all of the nets are put down at first. The 
nets that are put down are placed 
one after the other in parallels, with 
slight curves, with short spaces inter- 
vening. After the first net is laid, 
the others are all arranged a little to 
the right or left, so that when all the 
nets are down they slant off to one side 
or the other, and thus cover a broader 
space across the path of the whale. As 
soon as the nets are arranged, the net 
boats draw off on each side and look on. 
Then some of the fighting boats go 
around behind the whale to attack from 
that point, while others arrange them- 
selves on the sides so as to drive the 
whale into the nets. Those from behind 
strike with the harpoons and run the 
lines out. The whale then rushes for- 
ward, and must be driven into the nets. 
Then a wild scene ensues, and every effort 
is made to surround the whale that is 
making frantic efforts to escape. He 
often does escape ; but if he does not, he 
is soon surrounded by nearly three hun~ 
dred naked yelling men, who throw har- 
poons and stones in such numbers that 
the huge prey is overcome. It is really 
an awful as w r ell as pitiable sight ; for the 
noble animal until very weak makes 
furious efforts to escape, rushing forward 
and then diving and coming up again to 
beat the sea into a bloody foam, at times 
smashing the boats or overturning them ; 



284 



Route 36. — Voyage from Yokohama to Kobe. 



and above all the din and yelling of the 
men, can often be heard the plaintive cry 
of the whale as the deadly weapons sink 
deep into his flesh. Before the whale is 
dead, and while he is rushing forward, 
a man with a very sharp knife leaps on 
his back near the head, and slashes two 
great gashes into the flesh and passes a 
large rope several times around, in the 
flesh, leaving a loop on the outside ; the 
same kind of loops are made in the flesh 
nearer the tail. This is done in order that 
the whale may be tied up between two large 
boats to beams stretched across, and thus 
kept from sinking when he dies. In this way 
he is carried in triumph to the shore. The 
operation of cutting the holes and putting 
in the ropes is only done by the bravest 
and most skilful men (nazashi). While 
the holes are being cut and the ropes pass- 
ed in, the man must hold on to the whale, 
a,nd even go down with him into the water 
. if he dives ; for if he lets go, he is liable to 
be struck by the whale's tail and killed. 
The only thing to do is to tuck his head 
down and cling to the animal by the holes 
he has cut. He cannot raise his head, 
because he will at once be blinded by the 
water being driven into his eyes. When 
the fight draws to a close and the huge 
mammal is dying, all the whalers pray for 
the ease of the departing spirit by calling 
out Jdraleu ! J or aha ! Joralcu ! in a low deep 
tone of voice. Again, on the third day 
after the whale is talc en, a memorial ser- 
vice is held and prayers offered for the 
repose of the departed soul. If a baby 
whale is captured, a special matmri is held 
on the ninth day afterwards. As soon as 
the whale is landed he is cut up, and it is 
a fearful sight ; for the men strip them- 
selves of all clothing, and hack ami cut like 
madmen, all yelling at the same time 
with the greatest excitement. Some men 
even cut holes and go bodily into the whale, 
and, coming out all covered with blood, 
look like horrid red devils. Most of the 
whales taken are about 50 ft. long." 

From 16 hrs. to 29 hrs. is gene- 
rally considered the most enjoy- 
able part of the run from Yoko- 
hama to Kobe, and the traveller 
should make a point of being 
on deck as much as possible. 
Rounding Oshima, which is mark- 
ed by a red light visible 18 
miles, at 20 hrs., the vessel 
is close enough to the shore to 
note the thickly studded fish- 
ing villages, whose fleets of 
boats cover the water for miles. 
Half an hour's steaming from 
Oshima brings us to Shio Misaki, 
on which is a light visible 20 m., 
intended to guide vessels from the 



eastward. Prom Shio Misaki the 
track lies close along the shore — 
sometimes within 2 m., seldom more 
than 4 m. — to Hiino Misaki, a run 
of about 60 m., which, if made in 
daylight, will be even more enjoy- 
able than the 70 miles mentioned 
above. The hills of the bold and 
rugged coast of Kishu to the r. 
abound in pheasants, deer, boars, 
and monkeys. The land now 
visible on the 1. is the East coast 
of the Island of Shikoku. At 25 
hrs. the ship is off Hiino Misa- 
ki, and after steering due North 
for 26 m., will pass through Izumi 
or Yura Strait, which is about 6 m. 
wide, the passage for ships being 
narrowed to 2 m. by two islands 
called Ji-no-shima and Oki-no- 
shima, on the W. side of which 
latter is a lighthouse. Observe 
both r. and 1. how the heights have 
been levellel for the erection of 
forts to protect this approach to 
Osaka and Kyoto. From Izumi 
Strait to Kobe is a run of 30 m. 
across a completely landlocked bay, 
with the large Island of Awaji on 
the 1. Kobe is generally reached 
at from 28 to 30 hrs., weather being 
favourable. The highest hill seen 
to the r., with white temple build- 
ings sparkling in the sun, is Maya- 
san; the highest away to the 1. 
behind Hyogo is Takatori. 

Passenger steamers usually re- 
main 24 hrs. at Kobe, which gives 
travellers an opportunity to visit 
Kyoto. 

The chief distances of the run 
between Yokohama and Kobe, as 
made by the Nippon Yusen Kwai- 
sha's steamers, are as follows : — 

Yokohama to : — Miles. 

Lightship 2. 

Kwannon-zaki 14. 

Cape Sagami 23. 

Rock Island 74. 

Oshima 244,. 

Hiino Misaki 297. 

Oki-no-shima 322. 

Hyogo Point 346. 

Company's Buoy . , 348. 



SECTION IV. 



WESTERN JAPAN AN 
INLAND SEA. 



(Routes 57 — 50. 



^Pepart^ 




KOBE^SW: 



i, ;Jp"" ' 



~::;;:.ZJ$zzw~. 



*MS.A BAY 






©©ASIA ahb H®BE 







Route 37. — Kobe and Neighbourhood. 



287 



ROUTE -87. 

Kobe and Neighbourhood. 

jjkuta. nunobiki waterfalls, 
su wa - yama. maya - san ( the 
moon temple). futatabi - san. 
obu. momiji - dera. taisanji. 
takarazuka. bismarck hill. 
suma, maiko, and akashi on 
the sanyo railway. mino. ari- 
ma. rokko-san. hyogo. 

Kobe. 

Hotel. — Oriental. 

Japanese Inn. — Tokiwa. 

Consulates. — British ( including 
Austro-HuDgarian and Spanish), 
•and German (including Italian), on 
the Bund ; American, No. 15, 
Settlement; French, No. 21. 

Banks. — Hongkong and Shanghai 
Bank, No. 2, Bund; Agents for 
Chartered Mercantile Bank, No. 7 ; 
Agents for Chartered Bank of In- 
dia, Australia and China, No. 26. 

Churches. — Union Protestant 
Church (Anglican and Congrega- 
tional services), No. 48; Roman 
Catholic, No. 37. 

Curio-dealers. — Museum of Arts 
and Manufactures, No. 30, Settle- 
ment, a foreign store. 

Native Curio-shops. — Echigo-ya 
and various others in Moto-machi ; 
<Ohashi, for modern art products, at 
the end of Division Street near the 
frail way. 

Bamboo - work. — Iwamoto, near 
the Nanko temple. 

Photographers. — Ichida, in Moto- 
machi (Main Street), native town ; 
Shiu-e-do. 

Newspapers. — " Hyogo News," 
"Kobe Chronicle," and "Kobe 
•Herald," daily. 

Steamer Agencies. — Peninsular 
and Oriental Co., No. 109; Mes- 
sageries Mari times, No. 5 ; Nord- 
deutscher Lloyd, No. 10 ; Canadian 
Pacific, No. 26 ; Nippon Yusen 
Kwaisha, No. 2, Native Bund. 
Kobe is also the centre for the 



numerous small steamers plying on 
the coast of the Inland Sea. 

The Kobe Club and the Recrea- 
tion Ground for cricket, base-ball, 
lawn-tennis, etc., are at the E. end 
of the Settlement. 

Theatre. — Daikoku-za, at Nanko- 
mae in the Japanese town. There 
is also one at Hyogo, called Ben- 
ten-za. 

The Post and Telegraph Office 
and the terminus (Kobe station) of 
the Tokaido Railway from Yoko- 
hama to Kobe are in the native 
town, at the W. end of Sakae- 
machi. The station nearest to the 
Settlement for travellers to Osaka, 
Kyoto, and Yokohama is Sanno- 
miya, 5 min. from the landing- 
place, following Division street. 
Kobe station is also the terminus 
of the Sanyo line running down the 
shore of the Inland Sea, and travel- 
lers in that direction should, in 
order to avoid delay, start from 
Kobe station, not from Sannomiya. 
No passports are required for Osaka; 
but persons travelling to places be- 
yond that town in one direction, 
or to Himeji and beyond in the 
other, are compelled to produce 
passports before tickets are issued to 
them. Local passports for Kyoto, 
Nara, and the shores of Lake Biwa 
are procurable at the foreign de- 
partment of the Prefecture ; but 
strangers must apply for them 
through their consulates. More ex- 
tensive passports are obtainable 
within three or four days from the 
Japanese Foreign Office in Tokyo, 
on application through the Con- 
sulates. 

The pretty basket-work sold at 
Kobe is made at Arima (see p. 291). 
The celebrated Kobe beef comes 
mostly from the province of Tajima 
to the N.W. 

Kobe was opened to foreign trade in 
1868. Previous to that time the native 
trade was carried on at Hyogo, a large 
town adjoining KSbe on the S.W., and 
giving its name to the whole Prefecture. 
The municipal affairs of the Settlement 
are managed by a Council consisting of 
the Japanese prefect, the foreign consuls, 



288 



Route 37. — Kobe and Neighbourhood. 



and three elected members of the com- 
munity. Owing to the increase in the 
trade and population of the port, Kobe 
is rapidly extending beyond the Settle- 
ment up the slope to the foot of the hills, 
as far as the limit within which foreign- 
ers are allowed to lease land and houses. 

Kobe is the favourite open port 
in Japan, owing to the purity and 
dryness of its air, and its nearness 
to many places of beauty and in- 
terest, such as Kyoto, Lake Biwa, 
Nara, and the Inland Sea. The 
neighbourhood abounds in pretty 
walks and picnic resorts, of which 
the following are the chief. (All 
may be visited without passports 
except Hirano) : — 

1. Iknta- The Shinto temple of 
Ikuta stands in a wood of cryp- 
tomerias and camphor trees, 5 min. 
walk behind the Foreign Settlement. 
The deity worshipped there is 
Waka-hirume-no-Mikoto, who may 
be styled the Japanese Minerva, as 
she is supposed to have taught the 
use of the loom and to have in- 
troduced clothing. 

The temple is said to have been found- 
ed by the Empress Jingo on her return 
from her famous expedition against 
Korea, in honour of this goddess whom 
she had adopted as the patroness of her 
enterprise, and to whom she owed the 
victory gained by her arms. Hideyoshi, 
when despatching his expedition to Korea 
in the 16th century, caused prayers to be 
offered up at the shrine of this goddess. 
Prayers to her in seasons of drought or 
of excessive rain are said to be invariably 
answered. Festival, 3rd April. Annual 
fair, 23rd to 27th September. 

2. The Nnnobiki Waterfalls, 

which are about 20 min. from the 
Settlement. The path first reaches 
the Men-daki, or " Female Fall," 43 
ft. high ; then passing through a tea- 
house and over a covered bridge, it 
climbs to other tea-houses command- 
ing a view of the upper, or " Male 
Fall " (On-daki), 82 ft. high. Paths 
lead down to the bottom of each 
fall, and it is possible to bathe at 
certain hours of the morning. 
Large monkeys are occasionally seen 
in this neighbourhood. Ladies are 
advised only to visit Nunobiki under 
the escort of gentlemen, as the tea- 



houses are apt to be noisy. A good, 
view of Kobe and the surrounding 
country may be had from Sunago- 
yama, a detached hill near the fall. 
There is a tea-house at the top. 

3. Siiwa-yama. This spur of the 
range behind Kobe, crowned by tea- 
houses where mineral baths may be 
taken, commands an extensive 
view of the town and sea-shore. It 
was here that, in 1874, the transit 
of Venus was observed by a party of 
French astronomers. 

4. Maya-san is the name of one 
of the highest peaks (2,400 ft.) of the 
range behind Kobe. The summit is 
about 2 hrs. walk from the Settle- 
ment, return 1^ hr. This place is 
known to foreigners as the Moon Tem- 
ple- a purely fanciful designation, 
as the place has nothing to do with 
the moon, but is dedicated to Maya 
Bunin, the mother of Buddha. The 
temple stands on a platform at the 
top of a stone staircase, about 400 
ft. below the top of the mountain, 
which is reached by passing through 
a door to the 1. of the chapel in the 
rear, before ascending. The temple- 
contains a small image of Maya 
Bunin, one of a pair made by order 
of Wu Ti of the Liang dynasty 
(A.D. 502-529), with the object of 
diminishing the mortality of women 
in child-birth, which was very great 
during his reign. It was obtained 
by K6b5 Daishi during his stay in 
China. The 7th day of the 7th 
moon, old Calendar, is the great 
annual festival here. Those who 
make the ascent on that da}*", obtain 
as much merit as if they had as- 
cended eighteen thousand times. 

5. Fntatabi-san, a temple dedi- 
cated to Kobo Daishi, stands on a 
conical hill covered with trees be- 
hind the first range of hills to the 
N. of Kobe. It is accessible either 
by a stiff climb of 1 hr. through a 
pass properly called Kuruma-dani, 
but known to the foreign residents 
as " Hunter's Gap," at the foot of 
which is a small spring containing 
sulphur ; or by a more roundabout 
but less steep ascent entering a 



Walks and Excursions. 



289 



valley to the W. of Suwa-yama. 
The view from the top repays the 
climb, and the outlook to the N. 
is picturesque, giving a bird's-eye 
view of the lake and bare weather- 
worn hills known to foreigners as 
Aden, which locality the prospect 
somewhat resembles. The Japanese 
name is Shari-yama. In the au- 
tumn, the colouring of the foliage 
on Futatabi is particularly fine. 
Near the summit, on the r. hand 
going up, is the Kamaishi, a rock 
the top of which is roughly fashion- 
ed into the head and fore-legs of a 
tortoise {Jcame). 

6. An agreeable round of a little 
over 3 hrs, may be made by passiDg 
Futatabi-san on the W., descending 
to Aden, and taking a path along 
the W. shore of the lake, which 
leads into the Arima road near Obu, 
whence the pedestrian can return 
to Kobe via Hyogo. Jinrikishas 
may usually be procured at the 
Obu-no-chaya, a tea-house a little 
way up the Arima road. 

7. A pleasant walk may be taken 
by following up the waterfall stream 
above the falls ; but a time should 
be chosen when the stream is not 
over-full, as the path crosses it 
some' twenty times by means of 
stepping-stones. From points on 
this path the ascent may be made 
of Futatabi-san on the W., and of 
Maya-san on the E. 

8. A track following the summit 
of the first range at the back of 
Kobe from E. to W. affords, along 
its entire length, a fine view of the 
sea. One of the ways down near 
Suwa-yama passes through the 
Cremation Ground, where cremation 
is carried on in a way more curious 
than agreeable to the senses of sight 
and smell. 

9. Zenshoji or Momiji-dera, that 
is, "Maple Temple," lies some dis- 
tance beyond Hyogo. Though the 
walk there is uninteresting, the 
temple itself is prettily situated. 
Further again to the W., in the 
hills behind Takatori-yama, or 
" Coal Hill," lies Daisanji, a large 



collection of old temple buildings, 
situated in a valley surrounded by 
finely wooded hills. The Nagata 
temple in the same district may 
also be mentioned. 

10. A good walk may be taken by 
following the road from Karasu- 
wara on the outskirts of Hyogo, 
through the " Horse-shoe Valley " to 
Obu. Particular notice should be 
taken of a precipitous rock high 
up the hillside on the 1. hand. On 
its face the Buddhist invocation 
Namu Amida Butsu has been cut 
in gigantic characters, to accom- 
plish which the person who carved 
them must have been suspended 
from the summit by a rope. 

The railway now affords facilities 
for making a number of more dis- 
tant excursions. Such are those to 

11. Takarazwka (*Takarazuka 
Hotel, foreign style), also called 
Isoshi, a little over 1 hr. by jin- 
rikisha with 2 men from Nishino- 
miya station. This place has good 
mineral baths and several pretty 
walks, especially those to the 
temples of Kojin-san and Naga- 
hama. 

12 In the same direction is Ka- 
buto-yama, called by the foreign re- 
sidents Bismarck Hill, from the 
resemblance of the four trees on its 
summit to the four hairs which the 
great Chancellor is said to have on 
his head. Curious stone images and 
shrines are here to be seen perched 
on apparently inaccessible pinna- 
cles. The climb, easy as far as the 
temple of Hachiman, is stiff from 
there to the summit; but the view 
is magnificent, this hill being a 
landmark for the whole country- 
side and for ships navigating up the 
Kii Channel. From the bridge at 
Nishinomiya the top can be reached 
in 1J hr. 

13. Nakiiyama-dera (Inn, Nishi- 
ki-no-Bd) the twenty-fourth of the 
Thirty-three Holy Places of Kwan- 
non, possesses — besides its temple — 
a charming view and mineral 
springs. It is reached by taking the 
railway to Kanzaki station, thence 



290 



Boute 37. — Kobe and Neighbourhood. 



tram to Itami, from which it is 50 
did by jinrikisha. 

14. Sama, Maik^, and Akashi are 

well-known places on the Sanyo 
Kail way, where the Kobe residents 
often hire summer lodgings and 
enjoy excellent sea-bathing. The 
following inns may be recommend- 
ed : — Hoyo-in at Suma; Kame-ya 
at Mai/co; and Hashimoto-ya at 
Akashi. At Akashi, which is a 
pleasant spot for picnics, there is a 
pretty little Shinto temple in honour 
of the ancient poet Kaki-no-moto- 
no-Hitomaro, and there remain the 
moat a] id walls of the large castle 
of Matsudaira Sahyoe-no-suke, a 
Daimyo of 100,000 koku. Akashi is 
also remarkable as the place recently 
selected as the time meridian for 
all Japan. 

Tiikasago (Inn, Shikata-ya), and 
None a little further down the 
coast, are much visited by the 
Japanese, who alight at Kakogawa 
station, and rejoin the train at 
Amicla, after a round of 2 J ri by 
jinrikisha. The attractions are 
some famous old pine-trees and a 
temple of Tenjin. These places, to- 
gether with Befu and Onoe in the im- 
mediate neighbourhood, constitute 
what native travellers call the 
Harima Meguri, or Bound of the 
Province of Harima. 

From the time of Hitomaro early in the 
8fch century onward, the Japanese poets 
have never tired of singing the beauties 
of this pine-clad coast. The spirits of two 
ancient pine-trees {Ai-oi no Matsu) at Taka- 
sago, personified as a man and woman of 
venerable age who are occupied in raking 
up pine needles, form a favourite subject 
of Japanese art as typifying longevity. 
Here also is laid the scene of some of the 
most celebrated chapters of the Genji 
Moyiofjaturi, the greatest of the classical 
romances, composed circa A.D. 1000. This 
coast has likewise been the scene of stir- 
ring historical events, more particularly 
of a great buttle fought in the year 1184 
between the armies of the rival clans of 
Taira and Mmamoto, who were then still 
struggling f r political supremacy, though 
the final triumph of the Minamoto in the 
person of Yoritomo was not far off. The 
battle was fought close to the W. end of 
Suma in a valley called Ichi-no-tani, and 
was the occasion of an incident famous in 
history and song as the " Death of Atsu- 
mori." (See Kumagai Naozane, p. 60). 



15. Himeji {Inns, Inoue-ro, with 
foreign restt*. ; Kome-sei, Tatsuman), 
capital of the province of Harima, 
is a busy commercial centre, being 
at the junction of three highways — 
the Sanyodo which runs along the 
northern shore of the Inland Sea 
to Shimonoseki ; a road to the pro- 
vinces of Mimasaka, Hold, and 
Izumo ; and a third up the valley of 
the Ichikawa, via Ikuno to Toyooka 
in the province of Tajima. Himeji's 
chief attraction, however, is its an- 
cient Castle, which still remains in 
a state of exceptional preservation 
and eminently deserves a visit, being 
the largest in Japan next to Osaka. 
It is five-storied, and the top com- 
mands a fine view. Permits are 
granted at the Kobe Prefecture {Ken- 
cho) on presentation of passport. 

The castle, as it stands, is the outcome 
of the warlike labours of several noble 
families during many ages. Founded in 
the 14th century by Akamatsu Enshin, a 
retainer of the unfortunate Emperor Go- 
Daigo, it soon fell into the hands of the 
As.hikaga Shoguns, but was recovered in 
1467 by a descendant of the Akamatsu 
family. In 1577, Ota Nobunaga, then all- 
powerful, gave the province to Hideyoshi, 
who enlarged the castle and crowned it 
with thirty turrets. In 1608, Ikeda Teru- 
masu, to whom it had been meantime 
granted in fief, raised the number of 
turrets to fifty which took him nine years 
to finish. Thenceforward Himeji was 
at peace ; and at the time of the collapse 
of feudalism, belonged to a Daimyo named 
Sakai with an income of 150,000 koku of 
rice. The barracks now used are of 
modern construction. 

The chief productions of Himeji 
are cotton and stamped leather 
goods. At Shirakawa, a short dis- 
tance from Himeji, are some plum 
orchards which form a good spot 
for a picnic. 

16. lEirano* This place is situat- 
ed 10 m. north of Kanzaki station 
on the Tokaido Railway. A jinriki- 
sha road leads to it, passing about 
half-way a very pretty gorge through 
which dashes a stream called 
Tsuzumi-ga-taki. The mineral 
spring of Hirano is the Apollinaris 
of Japan. Visitors will be shown 
over the establishment by the 
manager. 



Mind. Arima. Hyogo. 



291 



17. Mino. ThisjDlace is best 
reached by train to Osaka, whence 
it is a 2 hrs. jinrikisha ride. The 
jinrikishas must be left at the en- 
trance of the vill. Shortly beyond, 
the path enters a beautiful glen 
some 2 m. in length, terminated 
abruptly by a tall cliff over which 
falls a cascade 70 ft. high. The 
best time to visit Mino is in Novem- 
ber, when the maple-trees glow 
with an almost incredible blaze of 
colours. It is also very pretty in 
April, when the cherry-trees are in 
blossom. Some way up the glen, 
>on the r., stands a temple with a 
little pavilion overlooking the 
stream — a favourite spot for picnics. 

18. Arima., also called Yuyama 
(Inns, Sugimoto-ya, Masuda-ya with 
European food and beds), the favour- 
ite hill station and summer resort 
of the Kobe residents, lies 9 m. from 
Kobe as the crow flies, and is 1,400 
it. above sea level. The air is cool, the 
scenery pretty enough though not 
remarkable, and pleasant rambles 
may be taken in the vicinity. 
The arrangements at the mineral 
springs are not specially adapted 
for foreign visitors ; but all the inns 
have an abundance of beautifully 
clear, cold water. Arima may be 
most easily reached by taking the 
train to Sumiyoshi, 15 min., and 
then walking over the Rokko-san 
Pass, a distance of 8 m. for which 
3 hrs. must be allowed. Persons 
incapable of walking so far can hire 
chairs at Sumiyoshi station, and get 
carried up in 4 hrs. The pass, 
which is about two-thirds of the 
way to Arima, lies 3,000 ft. above 
the sea. From the top of Rokko- 
san itself, 200 ft. higher, a fine view 
may be obtained. 

A pleasant round from Kobe is by 
train to Nishinomiya, thence b}^ jin- 
rikisha (two men necessary) to 
Takarazuka, 2J ri, and Arima, 3 ri 
12 did more ; thence back to Kobe 
over Rokko-san. Time, about 8 hrs. 
If this trip be reversed or the start 
be made late in the day, one may 
advantageously sleep at Takarazuka. 



19. It is easy from Kobe to visit 
the large and interesting Island of 
Awaji, which forms the subject- 
matter of Route 49, and to start 
on a tour down the Inland Sea 
or to Shikoku (Routes 50-55). 

Hyogo. 

Hyog'O (Inn, Tokiwa) adjoins 
Kobe on the S.W. It begins just 
beyond the Minato-gawa, which is 
easily distinguished by the tall pine- 
trees lining its banks. The bed of 
this river, like many others along 
this coast, is raised to a consider- 
able height above the surrounding 
country, owing to the masses of 
sand and pebbles continually swept 
down from the neighbouring hills. 
It is generally dry, except im- 
mediately after heavy rain. The 
banks have been neatly laid out so 
as to form a public walk, which 
leads to the Shinto temple erected 
since the Restoration of 1868 to 
the memory of the loyal warrior 
Kusunoki Masashige. 

Hyogo, under the earlier name of Buko, 
had existed as a port from very ancient 
days. It rose into prominence in the 
latter pa,rt of the 12th century, when 
Kiyomori removed the capital from Kyoto 
to Fukuwara in the immediate vicinity. 
This change of capital only lasted six 
months— from the 28th June, 1180, to the 
20th December of the same year; but 
Kiyomori' s partiality for the place left 
permanent elf ects, he having diverted the 
bed of the Minato-gawa to its present 
course so as to prevent it from flooding 
the town, and having constructed the 
artificial island of Tsukijima which sub- 
sists to this day. The stony bed of the 
Minato-gawa was the scene, in A.D. 1336, 
of a bloody battle between the partisans 
of the rightful Emperor Go-Daigo, and 
Takauji, founder of the Ashikaga line of 
Shoguns. Tn this battle the famous loyal 
warriors Nitta Yoshisada and Kusunoki 
Masashige suffered a crushing defeat, 
after which Masashige, rather than fly, 
committed harakiri. 

Hyogo' s chief sight is the Daibic- 
tsu, or great bronze Buddha, erected 
in 1891 in the precincts of the 
temple of Nofukuji. It is 48 ft. 
high, and 85 ft. round the waist ; 
length of face, 8Jft.; eye, 3 ft.; ear, 6 
ft. ; nose, 3£ ft. ; mouth, 2J ft. ; dia- 



292 



Route 38, — Osaka and Neighbourhood. 



meter of lap, 25 ft. ; and circum- 
ference of thumb, 2 ft. This 
large work owed its inception to 
the piety of a paper manufacturer 
of Hyogo, named Nanjo Shobei, 
Though by no means equal to the 
ancient Daibutsu at • Kamakura, 
the face is better than that of the 
Nara Daibutsu. The visitor is 
taken into the interior of the image, 
where is an altar to Amida, besides 
a number of lesser images (four of 
which are by Unkei, viz. those of Ka- 
sho, Anan, an elephant, and a lion), 
bells, tokko, wheels of the law, etc. 
The naked infant is what is called 
a Tanjo-Shaka (see p. 48). The 
numerous mirrors hung up here 
are gifts from the faithful. When 
sufficient funds shall have been 
collected, a five-storied pagoda is to 
be erected on an adjacent plot of 
ground. 

Not far from Nofukuji is ano- 
ther Buddhist temple, called Shin- 
kdji, with a bronze image of 
Amida, which, though much smaller 
than the Daibutsu, is a remarkable 
work of art. It is, moreover, pretti- 
ly placed on a large stone pedestal 
in front of a lotus pond, so that the 
effect is charming when those flowers 
are out. The temple itself is plain, 
but well-preserved. On the opposite 
side of the road is a stone Monument 
to Kiyomori, in the shape of a small 
thirteen-storied pagoda. About 10 
min. further on is Wada no Misaki, 
a point of land which juts out into 
the sea and is a favourite pleasure 
resort of the citizens, on account of 
the view, the finest in the whole 
neighbourhood. A trifle enables the 
visitor to enter the grounds of the Wa- 
raku-cn, where are tea-houses, fish- 
ponds, flower-shows from time to 
time, and a two-storied edifice, from 
whose roof a good view may be enjoy- 
ed. The high land seen ahead is that 
separating the provinces of Izumi 
and Kishu. The large island of 
Awaji lies to the r., divided from 
the mainland by Akashi Strait. 
The low round tower in front of the 
Waraku-en is the remnant of an 



ancient fort. The large Shinto 
temple passed both in going from 
Kiyomori's monument to Wada-no- 
Misaki, and also on the way back 
thence to Kobe, is called Wada no 
Myojin. A short morning will suf- 
fice for the sights of Hyogo, if done 
in jinrikisha. 



EOUTE 38. 

Osaka and Neighbourhood. 
1. the city: the mint, tenjin 
sama, kozu-no-miya, ikudama-no- 
jinja, tennoji, dotombori, hon- 
gwanji temfles. 2. neighbour- 
hood : sumiyoshi and sakai. 
1.— The City of Osaka. 

Osaka, also pronounced Ozaka, 
is reached by the Tokaido Railway 
from Kobe in a little over 1 hr., and 
from Kyoto in 1J hr. 

Hotel. — Jiyutei, in Nakanoshima, 
10 min. from the Tokaido Railway 
station. 

The curious bronze monument shaped 
like a lighted candle, which stands just 
outside this hotel, is a memorial raised 
in 1882 to the loyalist soldiers who fell in 
the Satsuma and other civil wars. 

Japanese Inn. — Tokiwa. 

Japanese Restaurant. — Seikwan- 
ro. 

Post and Telegraph Offices. — At 
the Umeda Railway station, at 
Shinsai-bashi, at Korai-bashi, and 
in the Foreign Settlement. 

Theatres. — In the Dotombori. 

Curio Dealers. — Yamanaka, Ogu- 
ni, and others at Korai-bashi. 

Porcelain Decorator. — Yubei Mei- 
zan, 197 Yashiki. 

Silk Mercers. — Mitsui, at Korai- 
bashi ; Daimaru, in the Shinsai- 
bashi-suji ; and Obashi-ya in Mido- 
suji. 

Sakai Bugs. — Mitani, in Hon- 
machi. 



History and Topography, The Castle. 



293 



There are many good shops of 
various kinds in the Shinsai-bashi- 
suji. The bazaars (kwankoba) de- 
serve a visit. The best are the 
Furitsu Hahubutsu-jo between Ume- 
da Station and Tennoji, the Shdhin 
Mihon Chinretsu-jo in Dojima, and 
the Shogyo Club at Imamiya. 

For Steam Communication to 
Awaji and Inland Sea ports, see 
Routes 49 and 50. 

Railway Stations. — There are 
three, viz., one at Umeda for the 
Tokaido, one in Minato-cho for Nara, 
and one at Namba for Sumiyoshi 
and Sakai. Each of these stations 
is about 20 min. by jinrikisha from 
the others. 

History and Topography.— This wealthy 
commercial city covers an area of nearly 8 
square miles. The earliest nse of the name 
Osaka occurs in a document dating from the 
end of the 15th century, where it is applied 
to part of the township of Ikudama. The 
undent name of the city, still used in 
poetry, was Nanhca, said to be a corrup- 
tion of nami hay a " wave-swift," or nami 
hana "wave flowers," because the fleet of 
Jimmu Tenno here encountered a boister- 
ous sea on its arrival from Hyuga. This 
word is alsojound in Namba, the name of 
one of the Osaka railway stations^ In 
1583, Hideyoshi resolved to make Osaka 
the seat of his power, judging that he 
could from this position most easily domi- 
nate the Daimyos of the South and West. 

The city of' Osaka lies upon the banks 
of the Yodogawa, the river draining 
Lake Biwa. Nakanoshima, an island in 
the centre of the stream, divides the 
river into two courses of about equal 
width. The scene here on summer eve- 
nings is of the gayest description. Hun- 
dreds of boats float lazily upon the water, 
filled with citizens who resort thither to 
enjoy the cool river breezes, while itine- 
rant musicians, vendors of refreshments 
and fireworks, etc., ply amongst the merry 
throng doing a thriving business. The 
city is also intersected by numerous 
canals, which necessitate a great number 
of bridges, and give it an appearance 
which may remind some travellers of Hol- 
land. Osaka always suffers to a greater 
degree than other cities in the Empire 
from epidemics, probably due to contami- 
nation carried by so much water com- 
munication. The three great bridges 
across the Yodogawa are the Temma- 
bashi, Tenjin-bashi and Naniwa-bashi. 
The principal thoroughfare is called Shin- 
sai-bashi-suji, which its fine shops, thea- 
tres, and bustling aspect render one_of the 
most interesting streets, not only in Osaka, 
but in Japan. In summer, this street 



derives quite an Oriental appearance from 
the curtains stretched across it to keep 
out the sun, and from the bright hues of 
many of the articles of merchandise. 

The Foreign Settlement is situated at 
Kawaguchi, at the junction of two 
streams. Close by are the Custom Houses, 
and the wharves for the steamers that 
ply between Osaka and Kobe, Shikoku, 
and the ports of the Inland Sea. Osaka, 
for all its bustle and prosperity, has not 
fulfilled the expectations formed of it as a 
centre of foreign trade. The affairs of 
the foreign municipality are managed by 
a committee constituted in the same way 
as at Kobe. 

The Castle (0 Shiro). Permits 
can be obtained on application at 
the Osaka Fu (City Office), \ hr. 
from Jiyutei's, open daily from 
9 to 4, except Sunda3'S and national 
holidays, and on Saturdays only till 
noon. The application must be 
made personally, as it has to be 
signed, but only one of a party need 
present himself. The permit must 
be used the same day, and given up 
to the sentry. 

When Hideyoshi set about the building- 
of this castle in 1583, labourers were 
drawn from all parts of the country (ex- 
cept the domain of Ieyasu), and the work 
was completed in two years. The palace 
thus raised within the castle was pro- 
bably the grandest building which Japan 
ever boasted. It survived the taking of the 
castle by Ieyasu in 1615; and in 1867 and 
1868 the members of the foreign legations 
were received within its walls by the last 
of the TokugawaShoguns. Will Adams, 
and his contemporary Captain John. 
Saris, give in the quaint style of those 
days, a good idea of the splendour of the 
palace and the extent of the city at the 
opening of the J 7th century. Adams 
says : — "I was carried in one of the King's 
gallies to the court at 0sdca, where the 
King lay about eightie leagues from the 
place where the shippe was. The twelfth, 
of May 1 600, I came to the great King's 
citie who caused me to be brought into 
the court, beeing a wonderfull costly 
house guilded with gold in abundance.*' 
Saris' account is as follows : "We found 
Ozaca to be a very great towne, as great 
as London within the walls, with many 
faire timber bridges of a great height, 
seruing to pass ouer a riuer there as 
wide as the Thames at London. Some 
faire houses we found there but not 
many. It is one of the chiefe sea-ports 
of all Iapan : hauing a castle in it, mar- 
uellous large and strong, with very 
deepe trenches about it, and many draw- 
bridges, with gates plated with yron. 
The castle is built all of free-stone, with 



294 



Route 38. — Osaka and Neighbourhood. 



bulwarks and battlements, with loope 
holes for sraal shot and arrowes, and 
diuers passages for to cast stones vpon 
the assaylants. The walls are at the 
least sixe or seuen yards thicke, all (as I 
said) of free-stone, without any filling in 
the inward part with trumpery, as they 
reported vnto me. The stones are great, 
of an excellent quarry, and are cut so 
exactly to fit the place where they are 
laid, that no morter is used, but onely 
earth cast betweene to fill vp voy'd 
creuises if any be." — Excluding the 
palace, this remains an excellent descrip- 
tion of the locality as seen to-day. The 
huge stones forming the walls of the 
principal gate of the castle attest the 
magnificent design of its founder. Out- 
side the present fortress ran a second line 
of moat and parapet, the destruction of 
which was made a condition of peace by 
Ieyasu after the first siege in 1614. The 
moat varied in width from 80 yds. to l l 20 
yds., and in depth from 12 ft. to 21 ft.; but 
it was completely effaced in about three 
weeks' time. On the '.'nd Feb., 1868, the 
buildings within the castle were set on 
fire by a train laid by the Tokugawa 
party before their final retreat, and were 
completely destroyed in a few hours. 
The castle now serves as the Head- 
quarters of the Osaka garrison. 

The size of the stones, all granite, 
used in the construction of the 
walls is stupendous. Some measure 
as much as 40 ft. long by 10 ft. in 
height, and are several ft. in thick- 
ness. The moats are paved with 
granite throughout. The view 
from the top of the platform on 
which stood the donjon (tensMc), 
is very extensive, embracing such 
distant objects as Hiei-zan to the 
N.E., Koya-san to the S., Kongo-san 
and other high mountains of Yama- 
to to the S.E. Immediately below 
is a noted well called the Kimmci- 
sui, lit. " Famous Golden Water," 
which furnished a sufficient supply 
for the garrison in time of siege. 

The following are the other chief 
places of interest in Osaka, begin- 
ning with those nearest to the To- 
kaidd Railway station, and making 
the round of the city. One day is 
sufficient for the whole. 

The Mint (Zdhei-hyoku), about 
20 min. in jinrikisha from the 
station, organised iu 1871, with 
a staff of British officials, has 
been under Japanese management 
since 1889. It now produces almost 



exclusively silver and copper coins. 
Besides the Mint proper, there are 
sulphuric acid works and a refinery. 

Tenjin Soma, on theN. side of the 
river, not far from the Tenjin-bashi, 
is a popular temple sacred to 
Sugawara-no-Michizane, and found- 
ed in the 10th century. The princi- 
pal festival is held on the 25th June. 
The temple contains some good 
carvings, and the ex-voto sheds 
several pictures of merit. Crossing 
the river by the Tenjin-bashi, and 
proceeding S. for about 1 m., we 
reach 

Kozu-no-iiiiya, on a hill to the 
1., which commands a fine view W. 
over the town. This temple is 
dedicated to the Emperor Nintoku, 
born 278 A.D. according to the re- 
ceived chronology. In the florist's 
garden (Kichisuke's) at the foot of 
the hill, the show of peonies at the 
end of April is among the finest in 
Japan. The Kangiku-en chrysan- 
themum show in the same district 
well deserves a visit in November. 

The Ikuriama Jinja, a little 
further S. up a flight of steps, is 
a picturesque Shinto shrine dedicat- 
ed to the patron deities of the city,, 
and fabled to have been founded by 
Jimmu Tenno on the spot where- 
the castle now stands. Hideyoshi 
removed the temple to its present 
site about the j^ear 1596. The view 
from the new votive hall (Ema-do) 
at the back, looking towards the 
strait of Akashi, is pretty. About 
1 m. further S. stands the famous 
Buddhist temple of 

Tennoji, which occupies an im- 
mense extent of ground on the S.E. 
of the city. 

It was founded by the illustrious Im- 
perial devotee, Shotoku Taishi, about A.D. 
600, but has frequently fallen into ruin, 
arid been renovated at the expense of 
either the Mikados or the Shoguns. 

On entering the great south gate, 
we find ourselves in a large open 
space, the centre of which is occu- 
pied by a square colonnade, open on 
the inner side. On the r. is a 
chapel called Taishi-do fs dedicated! 



Tenndji and other Temples. 



295 



to Shofcoku Taishi. It is a building 
of unpainted wood, roofed with 
thick shingles. Opposite this is a 
chapel containing the Indo no Kane, 
or "Bell of Leading," which is rung 
in order that the Saint-Prince may 
conduct the dead into Paradise. 
Dolls, toys, and children's clothes are 
offered up before it. Further on is 
a building which contains a curious 
stone chamber, with water pouring 
into it from the mouth of a stone 
tortoise. The names of those re- 
cently dead are written on thin 
slips of bamboo, and held at the 
end of a long stick in the 
sacred stream, which also carries 
petitions to Shotoku Taishi on 
behalf of the departed souls. Be- 
yond, is a pond with live tor- 
toises. It is partly covered over 
by a large new stone dancing stage, 
which also serves as a bridge to the 
RoJcuji-do temple opposite. Close by 
is another Indo-no-kane. 

From the gallery at the top of the 
lofty five-storied pagoda, the whole 
city and surrounding country can 
be seen. The Kondo, or Golden 
Hall, is about 54 ft. by 48 ft., and 
the highly decorated shrine within 
is dedicated to Nyo-i-rin Kwan- 
non. The image, which is copper 
gilt, is said to have been the first 
Buddhist image ever brought to 
Japan from Korea ; but that honour 
is also claimed by the triple image 
at Zenkoji (see p. 207). Various 
treasures dating from the 7th and 
8th centuries are preserved at 
Tennoji. 

Returning by the same streets to 
the entrance of Kozu-no-Miya, and 
going W., we soon find ourselves by 
the side of the Dotombori canal, in 
a street consisting chiefly of thea- 
tres, variety shows, and_ restaur- 
ants. This part of Osaka is 
especially interesting at night. 
Turning to the r. at the Ebisu- 
bashi, we cross into the Shinsai- 
bashi-suji, about half-way down 
which, a little to the 1., are" the two 
temples of the Hongwanji sect of 
Buddhists. The first is the Higashi 



Hongwanji, built about the year 
1615. It contains some fine massive 
open-work carvings. The Nishi 
Ilongwanji stands a few hundred 
yards further north in the same 
street. Its gateway is a beautiful 
example of the application of the 
chrysanthemum in tracery and 
open-work carving. On the main 
altar is a statue of Ami da 3 ft. 6 in. 
high, with the abbot Shinran Shonin 
on his L, in a richly carved and 
gilded shrine. 

2. — Neighbourhood of Osaka. 

The principal places of interest in 
the immediate neighbourhood of 
Osaka are Sumiyoshi and Sakai, 
both reached by the Hankai Rail- 
way. Trains run from either end 
at intervals of 40 min. throughout 
the day. 

Hankai Railway. 



111. 

5 lo 


Names. 

of 
Stations. 


Remarks. 


61 


C'SAKA (Namba) 

Tenpfa-jaya. 

S amiy oslii 


* Alight for 
\ temple. 


SAKAI. 



The Large embankment seen be- 
tween Osaka and Tenga-jaya is that 
of the Kara Railway. 

Tenga-jaya is so called because 
Hideyoshi, when lord of the Em- 
pire, had a villa there, which is 
still maintained for the sake of its 
historical associations. It stands in 
a small grove visible to the 1. from 
the carriage windows. The name 
of this place is familiar to all 
Japanese theatre-goers, as the scene 
of a famous vendetta which is often 
represented on the boards. The en- 
trance to the temple of Sumiyoshi 
is passed just before reaching the 
station of that name. 



296 



lloute 38. — Osaka and Neighbourhood. 



The Temple of Smisiyoshi, de- 
dicated to the three gods of the sea 
who, according to the legend in 
the Nihougi, assisted the Empress 
Jingo in her expedition to Korea, is 
held in high veneration by the lower 
classes of Osaka, great crowds flock- 
ing to it on festival days (every U- 
no-hi, or "Day of the Hare"). Out- 
side are innumerable stone lanterns 
presented as ex-votos. In the pond, 
over which passes a semi-circular 
bridge, live a number of tortoises 
with water-weed growing on their 
backs. These are popularly known 
as mino-game, — from mmo, the grass- 
coat worn by peasants in rainy 
weather, and kame, a tortoise. The 
Yamato-gawa is crossed near its 
mouth before entering 

Sakai (Inns, B6kai-rd and several 
others on the sea-shore, with good 
view ; Satsuma-ya in the town on 
the Koya-san side), a large manufac- 
turing centre. Its fine beach called 
Chinu-ga-ura, which is lined with 
tea-houses, attracts many visitors 
from Osaka during the summer 
months. The view thence includes 
Rokko-zan to the r., Kobe straight 
in front, the island of Awaji to the 
1., and still further 1. the hills that 
separate the province of Izumi from 
Kishu. The lofty chimneys are 
those of brick kilns, and of coke 
and cotton factories. Sakai also 
produces a large amount of cutlery, 
sake, and cosmetic powder. But 
the most characteristic industry is 
the manufacture of excellent cotton 
rugs and carpets (Sakai dantsu). 
They are of two kinds, — ori-dashi 
{colours woven in), and some-komi 
(colours dyed). The former are 
much the handsomer and more 
durable. Hideous specimens are 
now made to foreign order. 

Sakai takes its name from its position 
close to the boundary of the three pro- 
vinces of Izumi, Settsu, and Kawachi, 
having been originally called Sakai no Tm, 
that is, Boundary Harbour. Until the 
end of the 11th century, when a fortress 
was built here by Yamana Ujikiyo, it was 
a mere village. Konishi Settsu-no-kami, 
one of Hide.yoshi's mosc distinguished 
officers and an early convert to Christian- 



ity, was born in this town, where his 
forefathers for several generations had 
carried on the business of druggists. 
Another equally celebrated native of 
Sakai was Sen-uo-Rikyu, a great favourite 
with Hideyoshi, and often regarded as 
the father of the tea-drinking ceremo- 
nial (Cha-no-yu). In the 16th century 
Sakai was one of the most flourishing of 
the Roman Catholic mission stations, 
and is frequently mentioned by the 
Jesuits and other early writers. Will 
Adams thus describes it: "Right over 
against Ozaca, on the other side of the 
riuer, lyetli another great Towne called 
Sacey, but not so bigge as Ozaca, yet is it 
a towne of great trade for all the Hands 
thereabout." 

The well-kept temple of Myokoku- 
ji, belonging to the Nichiren sect 
of Buddhists, has a three-storied 
pagoda with elaborate carvings by 
Hidari Jingoro. The sanctum in 
the main building is handsome. 
In the grounds are some far-famed 
specimens of the sotetsu (Cycas 
revoluta), often erroneously called 
the sago-palm. 

They were planted here by Miyoshi Ji- 
kyu about the middle of the 16th century. 
Ieyasu carried the best away to his own 
residence in 15S2, but finding that it re- 
fused to nourish there, restored it to its 
home. It is popularly believed that this 
plant, the name of which means "revival 
by iron," is much benefited by that metal, 
and accordingly iron coins and myriads of 
broken needles will here be noticed round 
the roots. The needles are thrown there 
by the women of the country side, for 
the purpose of giving the fittest sepul- 
ture to the most precious instruments of 
feminine toil. 

In the front court of this temple are 
buried eleven warriors of the Tosa clan, 
who were condemned to disembowel them- 
selves for having shot down the same 
number of unarmed French sailors in the 
spring of 1868. It must be remembered 
that this form of capital punishment, 
barbarous as it may seem to Europeans, 
was at that time recognised as a privilege 
of the samurai class, and preferred by them 
to simple decapitation. 

On the S.E. of the town is the 
Tumulus (misasagi) of Nintoku 
Tenno, a double mound. The north- 
ern summit is 84 ft., the southern 
100 ft. high, while the circuit of 
the base measures 1,526 yds. It 
is surrounded by a double moat, and 
in the immediate neighbourhood are 
nine smaller tumuli. 



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Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



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EOUTE 39. 

Ky5to and Neighbourhood. 

environs : iwashimizu, atago- 
yama, rapids of the katsura- 

GAWA, UJI. 

Kyoto, also called Saikyo, is 
easily accessible from Kobe by local 
passport (see p. 287). The whole sur- 
rounding district is often spoken of 
as Kamigata. 

Hotels. — * Kyoto Hotel, also call- 
ed Tokiwa, in Kawara - machi ; 
*Yaami, fine view; Nakamura-ya, 
also called Niken-jaya. 

Japanese Inns. — Ikesho, Kashiwa- 
tei, in Kiyamachi. 

Japanese Restaurants. — Takemu- 
ra, Hachishin. 

Theatres and other places of 
amusement, in Shin Kyogoku ; two 
theatres in Shijd Kawa-Higashi. 

Telegraph and Post Office, in San- 
jo-dori Higashi-no-T6in. 

Kyoto is noted for its pottery and 
porcelain, its embroideries, cut vel- 
vets, and brocades, its bronzes, and 
its cloisonnes. The following shops 
may be recommended : — 

Pottery and Porcelain. — Kinko- 
zan, at Awata, where manufacture 
on a large scale for export is carried 
on ; Nishida, at Gojo-zaka. There 
are many other manufacturers and 
dealers in Kiyomizu and at Gojo- 
zaka, but they work mostly on a 
small scale. 

Embroidery, Velvets, and Mer- 
cery. — Takashima - ya, Orimono- 
Gwaisha, Nishimura, Daimaru, 
Tanaka Rishichi, and Ono (in 
Karasu-maru Shichijo). 

Bronze, Cloisonne', and other 
Metal-Work. — Shojodo (Jomi), in 
Teramachi Shijo-sagaru ; Kanaya 
Gorosa ; Namikawa at Shirakawa- 
bashi {cloisonne only). 

Curios (especially bronze, cloi- 
sonne, and porcelain) . — Boeki - 
Gwaisha, Kyukyodo, Takada, and 
Hayashi, at Furumon-zen ; Ikeda, 
at Shimmon-zen. The street called 



Manjuji-dori is almost entirely 
tenanted by curio-dealers of the 
more old-fashioned sort. 

Lacquer. — Nishimura, in Tera- 
machi. 

Bamboo-Work. — Wada, in Kiya- 
machi. 

Fans and Toys. — Nishida, at 
Higashi-no-T6in Shichi-jo ; Misaki, 
in Shichi-jd-dori Yanagi-no-Baba. 

Religious Services. — Presbyterian, 
every Sunday morning in the library 
of the Doshisha ; Roman Catholic 
Church, at the back of the Kyoto 
Hotel. 

The Mikado's Palaces (Gosho 
and Nijo no Rikyu), together with 
the Imperial villas (Katsura no Ri- 
kyu and Shugaku-in), are not 
open to the public, permits being 
obtainable only by visitors of special 
distinction. Kyoto's other greatest 
buildings are the San-ju-san-gen-do, 
Nishi Hongwanji, Kiyomizu, Gion, 
and Chion-in temples, in addition 
to which at least one of the cele- 
brated landscape gardens — say 
Kinkakuji or Ginkakuji — should be 
visited, as they are among the most 
characteristic products of Japanese 
estheticism. The best general view 
of Kyoto is usually considered to 
be obtained from a hill called Sho- 
gun-zuka, close to Maruyama on the 
E. side of the city, 1J hr. excursion 
from the Kyoto Hotel, but has been 
somewhat spoilt of late years by 
the growth of trees. Fairly good 
views of the city and neigh- 
bourhood may be gained with less 
trouble from the Shinto memorial 
to dead warriors (Shokon-hi) just 
above Kodaiji, and from the Yasaka 
Pagoda. Kiyomizu-dera, and the 
Yoshimizu tea-house close to the 
Yaami Hotel, also command charm- 
ing views. 

No one visiting Kyoto at the 
proper season should fail to see the 
Miyako-odori, a fascinating kind of 
ballet given every evening from 5 to 
10 o'clock at Hanami-kdji, near the 
Gion-za Theatre, entrance 20 sen, 
first class. The performances 
generally begin in early April, and 



298 



Route 39* — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



last twenty nights. Very character- 
istic, too, is the manner in which 
the citizens take the air on summer 
evenings in that part of the bed of 
the Kamogawa which is crossed by 
the Shijo Bridge. Little tables are 
placed in the dry spaces, to which 
miniature bamboo bridges lead from 
either bank ; and there the people 
sit eating and drinking, and fan- 
ning themselves, and listening to 
the music of singing girls. This is 
known as Shijo-gaivara no Sumimi. 
The various religious festivals 
{rnatsuri) at Kyoto are particularly 
curious and interesting, more es- 
pecially the Gion Matsuri on the 
15th June, and the Inari Matsuri 
on the 9th April. Furthermore, no 
one having money in his purse 
should fail to visit the shops, 
which are perhaps the most attrac- 
tive in Japan. 

Though a superficial acquaint- 
ance with Kyoto may be gained in 
a couple of days, at least a week is 
necessary to form an adequate idea 
of its manifold beauties. Owing to 
the gradual shrinking of the city in 
modern times, many of the best 
sights are some distance away in 
the country, and much time is 
spent in going from one to 
another. The following is offered 
as a sketch of the order in which 
the various sights of Kyoto may 
best be visited. Careful sightseers 
will scarcely be able to see all that 
we have crowded into one day for 
the guidance of such as are pressed 
for time ; but they can resume next 
day at the point where they left off, 
as the order follows regularly round 
the points of the compass, begin- 
ning with the north-central portion 
of the city : — 

1st Day. — The Mikado's Palace, 
— even a passing glance at the ex- 
terior is better than nothing — Kita- 
no Tenjin, Hirano Jinja, Daitokuji, 
the Shinto shrine of Ota Nobunaga, 
Kinkakuji, T6ji-in, Omuro Gosho 
(if rebuilt and open to the public, 
which is doubtful, as it now ranks 



among the Imperial Palaces), Uzu~ 
masa, Seiryuji, Arashi-yama. 

2nd Day. — The JSTijo Palace (the 
exterior in any case), Nishi Hon- 
gwanji, Higashi Hongwanji, Toji, 
the Inari temple at Fushimi, T6- 
fukuji, San-ju-san-gen-do, Daibutsu. 

3rd Day. — Kenninji, Nishi Otani, 
Kiyomizu-dera, the Yasaka Pagoda, 
Kodaiji, Shogun-zuka, Maruyama, 
Higashi Otani, Gion, Chion-in. 

4th Day. — Nanzenji, Eikwandd, 
Kurodani, Shinny odd, the temple 
of Yoshida, Ginkakuji, Shimo- 
Gamo, Kami- Gam o. 

5th Day. — Iwashimizu. 

6th Day. — Atago-yama. 

7th Day. — The Kapids of the 
Katsura-gawa. 

8th Day.— Uji. 

9th Day. — Hiei-zan. 

History and Topography. — From the 
earliest ages, the seat of the Mikado's 
rule was "generally in the province of 
Yamato ; but owing to the ancient custom 
of not continuing to inhabit the house of 
a deceased parent, the actual site was 
usually changed at the commencement of 
each reign. At the beginning of the 8th 
century the capital was established at 
Nara, where it remained until A.D. 784, 
when the reigning sovereign Kwammu 
moved to Nagaoka, a spot at the foot of 
the hills about ha If -way between Yam a- 
zaki and Arashi-yama in the province of 
Yamashiro. In 793, he selected a fresh 
site at the village of Uda in the same 
province, and transferred his Court thi- 
ther towards the end of the following 
year. In order to conciliate fortune, he 
is said to have bestowed on his new capi- 
tal the name of Heian-jo, or the City of 
Peace ; but this never came into use as 
the common designation of the city, which 
was spoken of as Mi.yako or Kyoto, the 
former being the Japanese, the latter the 
Chinese word for "capital city." When 
first laid out, the site measured nearly 
3 m. from E. to W., and about 3| m. from 
N. to S. The Palace, which occupied 
about one-fifteenth of the area, was 
situated in the centre of the N. side, and 
a fine street 2S0 ft. wide led from the 
great gate down to the S. gate of the city. 
Nine wide streets, called Ichi-jo, Ni-jo, 
San-jo, and so on up to Ku-jo, intersected 
the city from E, to W., the widest of 
these measuring 170 ft., the narrowest 
somewhat less than half. Similar streets 
crossing them at right angles ran from 
N. to S., and between them at equal dis- 
tances were lanes each 40 ft. in width. 
A double ditch, backed by a low wall with 
a gate at the end of each principal street, 
surrounded the whole of this huge square. 



History and Topography. Mikado's Palace. 



299 



In 1 177 the Palace was destroyed by fire, 
and three years later the seat of govern- 
ment was removed by the all-powerful 
minister Kiyomori to Fukuwara, the 
modern town of Hyogo. The Court, how- 
ever, soon returned to Kyoto, where it re- 
mained stationary until 1868, Both the 
city and the Palace have repeatedly fallen 
a prey to the flames, and as often been 
rebuilt, as far as possible in the original 
style. The present Palace was erected 
after the great fire of 1£54 Since the 
foundation of Yedo in 1590, Kyoto has gra- 
dually declined in size and importance. 
Its population is only half of what it is 
estimated to have held during the middle 
ages; and from chichi- jo-dori south- 
wards, what once formed busy thorough- 
fares is now laid out in market gardens. 

Kyoto stands on the Kamogawa, which, 
for the greater part of the year, is a mere 
rivulet meandering over a wide pebbly 
bed. On the 1. bank of the river are the 
suburbs of Awata and Kiyomizu. The 
town of Fushimi to the 8. may also be 
accounted a suburb. The chief modern 
addition to the topography of Kyoto, 
besides the line of railway, is the Lake 
Biwa Canal which connects the neigh- 
bouring large lake with the Kamogawa, 
as described in Route 40. 

The nomenclature of the Kyoto streets, 
apparently complicated, is in reality 
quite simple, being founded on a reference 
to the points of the compass and to the con- 
tour of the land, which is slightly higher 
on the N. than on the S. Thus the expres- 
sion Shijb-dbri Teramachi Higashi iru sig- 
nifies that portion of the Shijo or Fourth 
Thoroughfare which lies a little to the E. 
of the East and West intersection of that 
thoroughfare by Teramachi. Teramachi- 
dbri Shijo sagaru signifies the portion of 
the North and South Thoroughfare called 
Teramachi lying a little to the South of 
the intersection of that thoroughfare by 
Shijo-dori, the term sagaru, to " descend," 
being naturally applied to the South, as 
a gam, " to ascend," is to the North. The 
lanes mentioned higher up are called 
Kbji, whence such addresses as Teramachi- 
dbri Ane-ga-Kbji, ^ T h.ich means, "-4weLane 
off the Teramachi Thoroughfare." 

Some curious artificial scars or clear- 
ings are observed on carefully scanning 
the pine-clad hills near the city. In these 
clearings bonfires are lighted every 
18th August, at the close of the Bon 
festival (Feast of Lanterns). The most 
conspicuous of these marks is what 
is called the Dai Monji, or " Chinese cha- 
racter for Great," which is written thus, 
^C. It is situated to the N.E. of the city. 
To the N.W. is th© Ilidari Dai Monji, or 
" Character for Great reversed," thus /*C> 
the difference between the two, though 
slight to European eyes, being instantly 
perceptible to any Japanese. There are 
several more of these marks, which the 
guide will point out. 



The Mikado's Palace (Gosho). 
This large mass of buildings covers 
an area of nearly 26 acres. It is con- 
fined within a roofed wall of earth 
and plaster, commonly called the 
Mi Tsuiji, and has six gates. The 
open space between the wall and 
the Palace was formerly covered 
with lesser buildings, in which 
the Knge, or Court Nobles, resided. 
It is now cleared and open to the 
public, and in the S.E. corner of it 
is a Bazaar (Hakubiitsu-kwan) open 
every year in spring. 

Visitors are now admitted into 
the Palace through the Mi Daiclo- 
Jcoro Gomon, or Gate of the August 
Kitchen, and are first shown into 
an ante-chamber where they sign 
their names in the Palace book. 
From there they are led into the 
Seiryoden, or Pure and Cool Hall. 

It is so-called from a small brook which 
runs under the steps. The foreign visitor 
to these Japanese palaces will probably 
think the term "cool" — not to say 
chilly and draughty— most appropriate. 
Exquisite as is the art displayed, no at- 
tempt was ever made towards heating or 
towards anything which Europeans would 
deem comfort. 

The Seiryoden faces E., and meas- 
ures 63 ft. by 46-J ft. Originally this 
suite of apartments was the ordinary 
residence of the sovereign; but in 
later times it was used only on the 
occasion of levees and important 
Shinto festivals, such as the worship 
of the Four Quarters on the morning 
of New Year's day. In one corner 
the floor is made of cement, on 
which earth was strewn every morn- 
ing, so that the Mikado might wor- 
ship his ancestors on the earth with- 
out descending to the ground. The 
papered slides are covered with ex- 
tremely formal paintings by Tosa 
Mitsukiyo. Observe the Mikado's 
throne, a sort of catafalque with 
delicate silk curtains of white, 
red, and black, the actual seat 
being a fine mat. The wood of this, 
as of all the buildings, is chamzecy- 
paris (hinoki), — the same species 
as is used for the construc- 
tion of Shinto temples. The crest 



BOO 



Rdute 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



everywhere displayed is the sixteen- 
petalled chrysanthemum. The roof- 
ing is of the kind termed hiwada- 
buki — a sort of thick shingling — 
tiles appearing only on the very 
ridge. The empty sanded courts, 
the white plaster, and the red pillars 
of the walls give to the Palace a pe- 
culiar aspect of solemnity, which is 
almost oppressive. Everything, even 
down to minutiae, had its name and 
function, and was never changed. 
For instance, the two clumps of bam- 
boo in front of the Seiryoden have 
each a name handed down from 
hoary antiquity, one being the Kan- 
chihu, the other the Go-chiku, appel- 
lations derived from Kan and Go, 
two kingdoms in ancient China. 

From the Seiryoden the visitor is 
conducted to the Shisliinden, which 
faces S. and measures 120 ft. by 
63J ft. 

The name Shi-shin -d£n is explained as 
follows: shi is "purple," the true colour 
of the sky or heavens ; shin denotes that 
which is " mysterious " and hidden from 
the vulgar gaze ; den means " hall." This 
building was used for the enthronement 
of the Mikado, for the New Year's audi- 
ence, and other important ceremonies. 

The large paintings in the panels 
of this hall represent Chinese sages. 
The originals were executed in A.D. 
888 by the famous Kose-no-Kanao- 
ka; but they were destroyed long 
ago, and the present pictures are 
merely copies of copies. The throne 
(Mi Chodai), though quite modern, 
is interesting. The stools on either 
side of it are intended for the Im- 
perial insignia, — the sword and the 
jewel. The silken curtains are re- 
newed every spring and autumn. 
Observe that the Mikado sat on a 
chair in this instance, as did all 
those here admitted to an audience. 
A flight of eighteen steps leads 
down into the court corresponding in 
number to the original series of 
grades into which the officers of go- 
vernment were divided. Those who 
were not entitled to stand on the 
lowest step were called Ji-gc, or 
" down on the earth," to distinguish 
them from the Ten-jo-bito, or " per- 



sons who ascend into the hall." 
On the 1. is a cherry-tree called 
Sakon no Sakura. When the Em- 
peror Kwammu first built the palace, 
he planted a plum-tree here ; but it 
withered away, and the Emperor 
Nimmyo (A.D. 834 to 850) replaced it 
by a cherry-tree. The present one 
was transplanted hither thirty-four 
years ago. On the r. side is the TJkon 
no Tachibana, a wild orange-tree, 
also a relic of ancient custom. 

SaJcon and TJkon were the names of 
ancient ranks, and the application of 
them to these trees may he compared to 
the knighting of the Sirloin of Beef by 
Charles II. 

A corridor leads from the Shishin- 
den to the O Gakitmonjo, or Im- 
perial study, where the Mikado's 
tutors delivered lectures, and where 
courts were held for the cultivation 
of poetry and music. The decora- 
tion of the sliding screens in this 
suite calls for special remark. Most 
of the rooms, as will be noticed by 
those acquainted with the Japanese 
language, take their names from 
the subjects delineated in them. The 
wild geese in the Gan no Ma are by 
Renzan (Gantoku), d. 1859 ; the 
screens of the Yamabuki no Ma are 
by Maruyama Oryu; the chrysan- 
themums in the Kiku no Ma, by 
Okamoto Sukehiko. The three 
rooms which form the audience 
chamber, called respectively Gedan, 
Chudan, and Jodan, are decorated 
with Chinese scenes. The wooden 
doors in the corridor are by Sho- 
mura Ryusho, Yoshida Kokin, Hara 
Nankei, and Murakami Seiju. 

North of the Imperial study, in, a 
building measuring 57 ft. by 33 ft., 
and facing S. towards a small 
separate court, is a suite of rooms 
called the On Mi Ma (August Three 
Rooms). Private audiences were 
granted here, and here the No (a 
kind of lyric drama) was witnessed 
at a distance by the Mikado seated 
on the upper floor. The No stage is 
under a separate roof, and cut off 
from the suit^e by a high paling, 
which was removed when a per- 



Mikado's Palace. Doshisha. Kitano Tenjin. 



301 



formance took place. The decora- 
tions of the rooms are in the Tosa 
style. 

The last suite of apartments to 
which visitors are now generally ad- 
mitted is the Tsune Goten, or Usual 
Eesidence of the Mikados, consist- 
ing of eleven rooms, which, from 
the 13th century onward, formed the 
retreat in which generations of 
Mikados lived and died. The centre 
room of the suite facing E. was His 
Majesty's ordinary sitting-room, the 
four on the N. being occupied by his 
female attendants. At the W. end 
of this suite was the Moshi no kuchi, 
literally "Opening for Speech," 
where men who had business with 
His Majesty stated their errand to 
the women, who then transmitted it 
to the Mikado. The Imperial bed- 
room was behind the sitting-room, 
and entirely surrounded by the other 
apartments, so that no one could 
get near His Majesty without the 
knowledge of his immediate at- 
tendants. Beyond the Tsune Goten 
lie the Noryoden, or Palace for 
Enjoying the Cool Air, which was 
reserved for the Mikado's private 
pleasures, and the Kita Goten, or 
Northern Palace, containing the 
apartments of the Heir Apparent. 
There were formerly also palaces 
for the Empress, Empress Dowager, 
and Princesses, besides various other 
buildings now destroyed or removed. 
For instance, the Kashiko-dokoro, 
or Fearful Place, in which was pre- 
served the sacred mirror of the Sun- 
Goddess, has been transferred bodily 
to Jirnmu Tenno's mausoleum in 
the province of Yamato. 

The large brick building noticeable 
on the hill r. on quitting the Palace, 
with three others north of it, belong 
to the Doshisliii, a Christian 
University founded in 1875 under 
the auspices of the American Board 
Mission. Connected with the same 
institution are a Girls' School, 
a Training School for Nurses, and 
a Hospital. 

Kitano Tenjin, commonly called 



Tenjin Sama, is a temple dedi- 
cated to the deity of that 
name. Entering through the great 
stone torii on the S., we find 
tea-houses, and stone lanterns 
presented by votaries of the god. A' 
small two-storied gate-house, gaudi- 
ly decorated in colours, forms the 
entrance to the temple enclosure. 
It is called the San-ko no Mon, or 
Gate of the Three Luminaries, i.e. 
the Sun, Moon, and Stars, from re- 
presentations of those heavenly 
bodies which can only be distinguish- 
ed with much difficulty among 
the carvings on the beams of the 
gateway. The oratory, built by Hide- 
yori in 1607, forms the N. side of a 
square, the other three sides being 
colonnades, with the Gate of the 
Sun, Moon, and Stars on the S. 
Its dimensions are 58 ft. by 24 ft. 
The cornice is decorated with colour 
in the style prevalent at that period. 
The chapel behind, 38 J ft. by 32 J ft., 
is separated from the oratory by a 
chamber paved with stone, having 
its roof at right angles to the roofs 
of the oratory and chapel. Behind 
is the Jinushi no Yashiro, or Temple 
of the Lord of the Soil, said to have 
been founded in A.D. 836, together 
with numerous other small shrines. 
The treasury is built of wooden 
beams, the section of each beam 
being a right-angled triangle with the 
right angle outside, a form of con- 
struction much followed in this por- 
tion of Japan. East of the colonnade 
are the kagura stage and the build- 
ing in which the god's car (mikoshi) 
is kept. The temple was founded by 
adherents of the Kyobu Shinto sect, 
and is still an excellent specimen of 
the mixed style which they affected. 
The numberless stone lanterns, the 
stone and metal bulls, the ex-voto 
shed with its grotesque pictures, 
the elaborately carved and painted 
gateways, the swaying lanterns, — all 
testify to a form of worship of the 
baser popular sort. One of the 
queerest features of the main build- 
ing is a set of framed pictures of 
the Thirty-Six Geniuses of Poetry, 



302 



Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



made of woven stuffs, which have 
heen presented by the manufac- 
turers, and thus serve as an 
advertisement. 

Pictures of the Thirty-Six Geniuses of 
Poetry are among the usual adornments 
of Shinto temples (see p. 105). 

Hirano Jhija. This temple de- 
serves passing notice as a good 
example of a place of worship 
rebuilt according to the architec- 
tural canons of Pure Shinto. The 
oratory is an open shed hung 
with pictures representing the 
Thirty-Six Geniuses. Beyond it 
are five chapels — two pairs con- 
nected by a watch-room, and one 
detached. They are dedicated to 
minor Shinto deities. The annual 
festival is held on the 2nd May. 
The cherry-trees in the grounds are 
much visited during the season of 
blossom, especially at night. They 
are of many varieties, and each tree 
has some fanciful, poetical name. 

Daitokuji. 

Daitokuji, belonging to the Zen sect of 
Buddhists, was founded by Daito Koku- 
shi, an abbot of the early part of the 14th 
century, to whom, as to so many others, 
a miraculous birth and precocious wisdom 
are ascribed. The manner of his concep- 
tion is said to have been that his mother 
dreamt one night that a wild-goose came 
flying towards her with an open blossom 
in its beak, and that soon afterwards she 
found herself to be with child. 

This once magnificent temple still 
merits a visit on account of its 
stately proportions. One of its gates 
— the Higurashi no Men, so called 
because a whole day might be spent 
in examining its carvings— should 
be specially noted ; also the fine gilt 
image of Shaka in the Garan-clo. 
Daitokuji is celebrated for the treas- 
ures stored away in its godowns. 
No temple in Japan, so it is averred, 
possesses an equally large number 
of valuable kakemonos. Though 
most of the best pieces are thus 
hidden from view, the Apartments 
richly deserve the careful scrutiny 
of all persons interested in Japanese 
pictorial art. The entire set of 
sliding doors (fusuma) dividing 



room from room was painted by 
Kano Tan-yu, from whose brush 
also are folding screens represent- 
ing scenery in China, the four 
seasons, children at play, etc. A 
pair of screens with splendidly 
coloured peacocks is by Okyo ; 
others by Kano Tanshin depict 
popular occupations and trades. 
The sepia drawing by Tan-yu of 
a man exhibiting a dancing monkey, 
which occupies one wall of the in- 
nermost room, is particularly 
famous. An interesting old por- 
trait bust in wood represents Ota 
Nobunaga. 

The Shinto shrine of Ota Nobu- 
siaga, on the slope of Funaoka- 
yama, is prettily situated near 
Daitokuji. The summit of the hill, 
which can be reached in a couple 
of minutes, commands a beautiful 
panorama of the city and surround- 
ing country. 

This temple was built in 1880 by private 
admirers of the hero, who is now wor- 
shipped as a Shinto god. 

KiiiKaknji, more properly Boku- 
onji, a monastery of the Zen sect, 
takes its popular name from the 
kin-kaku, or " golden pavilion," in 
the grounds attached to it. 

In 1397, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, who had 
three years previously resigned the title 
of Shogun to his youthful son Yoshi- 
mochi, obtained this place from its former 
owner, and after extendiug the grounds, 
built himself a palace to serve nominally 
as a retreat from the world. Here he 
shaved his head, and assumed the garb 
of a Buddhist monk, while still continuing 
in reality to direct the affairs of state. 

The garden is artistically laid 
out. In the middle is a lake with 
pine-clad shores and pine-clad islets, 
whose quiet charm none would 
expect to find so near to a large 
metropolis. The lake is stocked 
with carp, which, when visitors 
appear there, crowd together at the 
stage below the Pavilion, in ex- 
pectation of being fed. All the 
palace buildings have disappeared. 
The Pavilion alone remains, much 
dimmed by age. It stands on the 
water's edge, facing S., and is a 



Kiiikakuji. Toji-in. 



three-storied building, 33 ft. by 
24 ft. In the lower room are a 
seated effigy of Yoshimitsu in priest- 
ly garb with shaven pate, and gilt 
statuettes of Amida, Kwannon, and 
p&ishi, by the carver Unkei. In the 
second storey is a small Kwannon in 
an imitation rock-work cave, with the 
Shi-Tenno. The paintings on the 
ceiling by Kano Masanobu are now 
scarcely recognisable. The third 
storey was completely gilt, the gold 
being laid on thickly over varnish 
composed of hone powder and lacquer 
upon hempen cloth. The ceiling, 
walls, and floor were thus treated ; 
and even the frames of the sliding 
screens, the railing of the balcony, 
-and the small projecting rafters 
which form the roof of the balcony, 
were, as a careful examination will 
show, covered with the precious 
metal. Nearly all the gold has 
disappeared, but the original wood- 
work is complete, with the excep- 
tion of a few decayed boards that 
have had to be replaced. The effect, 
now so dingy, must have been dazz- 
lingly beautiful. On the top of the 
roof stands a bronze phoenix 3 ft. 
high, also formerly gilt. 

The large hill seen to the r. from 
the third storey of the Pavilion is 
Kinukasa-yama. 

This name means Silk Hat Mountain, 
und was given in allusion to the incident 
of the ex-Mikado Uda having ordered it 
to be spread with white silk one hot day 
in July, in order that his eyes at least 
might enjoy a cool, wintry sensation. 

The guide will probably offer to 
lead the traveller round the grounds 
at the back of the Pavilion, where 
Yoshimitsu's footsteps and doings 
are bracked with minute care, — the 
place where His Highness drank 
tea, the place whence the water for 
his tea came, the place where he 
washed his hands, etc. ; but these 
can have little interest for any but 
a Japanese. The Apartments, on 
the other hand, deserve careful in- 
spection, on account of the sliding 
screens which they contain by Kano 
Tan-yu and Jakuchu, of the folding 



screens by Korin and Soami, of the 
numerous^ kakemonos by Shubun, 
Eishin, Okyo, Korin, Sesson, and 
other celebrated artists, notably two 
by Cho Densu representing the 
three religious teachers Confucius, 
Chwang Tzu, and Buddha, besides 
various relics and autographs of 
the Ashikaga Shoguns and other 
illustrious personages. The priest 
who shows all these treasures some- 
times ends up by treating the visitor 
to tea in the clia-no-yu style. 

Toji-in, founded in the 14th cen- 
tury, by Ashikaga Takauji will 
interest the historical student as 
containing effigies of nearly all the 
Shoguns of the Ashikaga dynasty, 
beginning with Takauji in the centre 
chamber, a lacquered wooden seated 
figure in the court-robe called kari- 
gvnUf with the courtier's wand 
(shaku) in the r. hand, and wearing 
a tall black court cap (taka-eboshi). 
Opposite to him is Ieyasu (of the 
Tokugawa dynasty). In the next 
room are, beginning at the 1., *(2) 
Yoshinori, (4) Yoshimochi, (6) Yo- 
shinori II., (8) Yoshimasa, (10) 
Yoshiteru, and (12) Yoshizumi. 
The other room contains the effigies 
of (3) Yoshimitsu, (7) Yoshikatsu, 
who died at the age of ten, (9) 
Yoshinao, (11) Yoshitane, (13) 
Yoshiharu, a degenerate -looking, 
dwarfish man, and (15) Yoshiaki 
fat and sensual in appearance. Most, 
if not all, may be accepted as con- 
temporary portraits of the men they 
represent. Observe that in their 
time (14th, 15th, and 16th centuries), 
the Japanese fashion was to wear a 
moustache and small pointed beard. 
The Apartments of this monastery 
also contain various kakemonos by 
Kano Tan-yu and other famous 
artists. The sliding screens in 
sepia are all by Kano Sanraku. 
Those round one of the rooms de- 
pict the acts of devotion of the 
Four-and-Twenty Paragons of Filial 
Piety. 



* The numbers in brackets refer to the 
order of each in the dynasty to which 
they all belonged. 



304 



Route 39. — Kyoto arid Neighbourhood. 



During the period of ferment which 
preceded the restoration of the Mikado's 
authority, it was fashionable among the 
opponents of the feudal regime to load the 
memory of the Ashikaga Shoguns with 
insults that could not safely be offered 
in a direct manner to those of the reigning 
Tokugawa line ; and one morning in April, 
1863, the people of Kyoto woke to find the 
heads of the effigies of Takauji, Yoshi- 
nori, and Yoshimitsu pilloried in the dry 
bed of the Kamogawa at the spot where 
it was then usual to expose the heads of 
the worst criminals. Several of the men 
concerned in this affair were thrown into 
prison, whence they where transferred 
to the custody of certain Daimyos, and 
not released for some years afterwards. 

Myoshinji is a large temple of 
the Zen sect, founded by Kwanzan 
Kokushi, an abbot of the 14th 
century. 

Omuro Oosho, also called Ninna- 
ji, is a monastery founded towards 
the end of his life by the Mikado 
Koko. 

In A.D. 899 the ex-Mikado Uda chose it 
as his place of retirement, and occupied 
the palace built for him here from 9<>l 
until his death in 931. In 890 a decree 
was issued constituting Ninnaji a resi- 
dence for " descendants of the Mikado," 
or Monzeki, as t,hey are called, a term 
applied extensively in later years to 
monasteries founded to provide homes for 
various members of the Imperial family, 
and also conferred as a title of distinction 
upon abbots of other than Imperial blood. 
The Mikado Shu j aim entered the priest- 
hood in 952, and took up his residence 
here, but no other ex-sovereign ever occu- 
pied it. Up to 1868 there had been thirty- 
three successive priest-princes, the last of 
whom was the present Prince Higashi 
Fushimi. 

Omuro Gosho was burnt down in 
1887, and though now counting 
among the Imperial summer palaces, 
has only been partially restored. 
The grounds, which are spacious, 
show to best advantage during the 
season of the cherry-blossoms. There 
is a fine five-storied pagoda, which, 
with a few other of the lesser build- 
ings, escaped the fire. 

Half a ri beyond Omuro Gosho 
lies Takao, celebrated for its Momi- 
ji-yama, or " Maple Mountain," on 
one side of a romantic glen. There 
is a tea-house on the top with a 
delightful prospect, offering an ex- 
cellent spot for a picnic, especially in 



November, when the leaves turn 
crimson. 

UznniaSft, more properly called 
Koryuji, stands far out of the city 
at the end of the Nijo street. 

This very ancient Buddist temple is said 
to have been founded in A.D. 604 by Sho- 
toku Taishi, who consecrated it to certain 
Buddhists gods whose images had been 
brought from Korea. The principal edi- 
fice, called the Kodo, was however not 
erected till S' l .6, and this having been 
burnt down about 1150, the present struc- 
ture was built out of timber saved from 
the flames. The other buildings are of 
much later date — 17th and 18th centuries. 

This temple will have special 
attraction for the student of Japa- 
nese statuary, which can nowhere, 
except at Nara, be studied in such a 
multitude of very early specimens.* 
Most of them are about life-size or 
else half life-size. The most in- 
teresting of these wooden statues is 
one of Shotoku Taishi at the age 
of thirty-three, said to have been 
carved by himself. It is clad in a 
silken robe of imperial yellow, pre- 
sented by the Mikado at his ac- 
cession, in accordance with ancient 
custom. In its r. hand the image 
holds the courtier's wand, in its 1. 
a censer. Besides the yellow robe, 
it wears wide trowsers of white silk 
damask and a black court hat. The 
features have a perfectly natural 
expression, but the paint on the 
face has become discoloured by 
time. In the temporary Hondo are 
the Buddhist images from Korea. 
The most important of these is 
a gilt wooden figure of Nio-i-rin 
Kwannon, about 3 ft. high, seated 
upon a stool, the r. foot lifted and 
laid on the 1. knee, the 1. hand 
resting on the r. foot. The face is 
supported on two long fingers of the 
r. hand. Drapery formal. The 
hair is drawn back from the fore- 
head, and tied in a knob at the top. 



* He will of course remember that many 
of these, though called Japanese, are 
either Korean or else carved under the 
instruction of Korean teachers. See the 
very interesting opening pages of Ander- 
son's Catologve of Japanese and Chinese 
Paintings in the British Museum. 



Uzitmasa. Saga. Arashi-yama. Nijo Palace. 



305 



The features are quite natural, and 
wear a pensive expression. The 
hands are beautifully modelled, the 
arms rather thin, though showing 
a good idea of form ; but the 
feet have been restored in a 
clumsy manner. The gold has been 
nearly all rubbed off. Bound the 
shrine are the "Twelve Divine 
Generals" (Ju-ni-ten), who so 
frequently accompany the god 
Yakushi, of which latter there is 
an image dating from the 9th 
century. A curious feature is a 
box about 1J ft. square, containing 
no less than 1,000 microscopic 
images of Jizo (Sen-tai Jizo). 

Saga no Shaka-dft, more pro- 
perly called Seiryuji, is a large 
temple of the Jodo sect of Bud- 
dhists, to which lads and girls thir- 
teen years old make a pilgrimage on 
the 13th day of the 3rd moon in order 
to obtain wisdom — a pilgrimage 
which accordingly goes by the name 
of the Ju-san Mairi. The present 
building is about two centuries old. 
Behind the altar is a magnificent gilt 
shrine of Shaka, with painted 
carvings presented by the mother 
of Iemitsu, third Shogun of the 
Tokugawa dynasty. On the doors 
being opened, a curtain is drawn up, 
which discloses another set of 
doors, gilded and painted, and then 
a second curtain splendidly em- 
broidered. R. and 1. are seated 
images of Monju and Fugen. 

The image of Shaka is said to be Indian, 
and to have been executed from, life by 
the sculptor Bishukatsuma (Vishvakar- 
man) ; but it has more the appearance of a 
Chinese work. Chonen, a monk of Todai- 
ji at Nara, is said to have brought it over 
in the year 987. According to the legend, 
it was carved when Shaka Muni was 
absent in the heaven called Tosotsu-Ten 
(Tushita), preaching to his mother, during 
which time his disciples mourned over 
his absence. King Uten (Udayana) gave 
red sandal-wood from his stores, and the 
saint's portrait having been drawn from 
memory by Mokuren (Maudgalyayana), 
the sculptor went to work and speedily 
completed the statue, which was placed 
in the monastery of Gion Shoja (the Jeta- 
vana Vihara). On the return of Shaka 
after an absence of ninety-days, the image 
descended the steps to meet him, and 
they entered the monastery together. 



Arashi-yama is a picturesque 
gorge of the River Katsura, here 
called the Oigawa, and higher up 
the Hozugawa. The hills are every- 
where covered with pine-trees. 
There are also plantations or 
cherry-trees, brought from Yoshino 
in the 13th century by the Em- 
peror Kameyama, and of maple- 
trees which add greatly to the 
natural beauty of the spot in spring 
and autumn. The place boasts 
some good tea-houses, especially the 
Nakamura-j^a and Hototogisu. The 
rafts seen on the river bring down 
timber from the province of Tamba. 
Hard by, in the vill. of Saga, is 
Tenryuji, formerly a vast congeries 
of temples and priests' dwellings, of 
which, however, a fire that took 
place during the civil war of 1864 
has left but few remnants standing. 

The Nijo Palace (Nijo no Rikyu). 

This site originally held a mansion 
erected by Nobunaga in A.D. 1569 for 
Yoshiaki, the last of the Ashikaga 
dynasty of Shoguns, The present edifice 
dates from 1601, when Ieyasu built it to 
serve as a pied-a-terre on the occasion of 
his visits to Kyoto, During his time and 
that of his successors, the Tokugawa 
Shoguns, it was known as Nijo no Shiro, 
or the Nijo Castle. On the 6th April, 
1868, the present Mikado, just re-invested 
with his full ancestral rights by the re- 
volution then in progress, here met the 
Council of State, and in their presence 
swore to grant a deliberative assembly 
and to decide all measures by public 
opinion. After this, the Castle was for 
some time used as the office of the Kyoto 
Prefecture, but was taken over in 1883 as 
one of the Imperial summer palaces. 
Though as many as possible of the wall 
paintings, being on paper, were rolled up 
and put away during the occupation of 
the palace by the prefecture, much harm 
was done to painted doors and to precious 
metal-work by the almost incredible van- 
dalism and neglect which ran riot at that 
period all over Japan, when to deface 
antique works of art was considered a 
sign of civilisation and "progress." The 
restoration of the Nijo Palace to some- 
thing like its former splendour dates from 
1835-6, at which time the Imperial crest of 
the sixteen-petalled chrysanthemum was 
substituted in most places for that of the 
Tokugawa Shoguns. 

This palace, a dream of golden 
beauty within, is externally a good 
example of the Japanese fortress, 



306 



Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



with its turrets at the corners and 
its wall of cyclopean masonry. It 
is only, however, a fraction of its 
former self. The present building 
is what was called the Ni no maru, 
or Second Keep, the Hommaru, 
or Chief Keep, having been de- 
stroyed by fire about a century ago. 
Alighting at a fine gate called Kara- 
mon or Yotsu-ashi-mon, decorated 
with exquisite metal-work and gilt 
carvings, the visitor is admitted 
through a side-door into a court 
planted with pine-trees. Opposite 
stands a second gate, called Ku- 
ruma-yose, gorgeous with gold and 
colours and curious carvings of 
peonies and phoenixes, the work of 
Hidari Jingoro, brought from Hide- 
yoshi's famous palace at Fushimi. 
Turning to the r., the visitor is then 
admitted to the Palace proper, 
where, having signed his name in 
the book, he is shown over the 
various suites of rooms, the chief 
character of which is spaciousness, 
while the profuse employment of 
gold as the ground of the mural 
decorations, and the unusual size 
and boldness of the paintings on 
that gold ground give to the whole 
an aspect of grandeur, power, and 
richness rarely seen in a country 
whose art, generally speaking, re- 
stricts itself to the small and the 
delicate. All the wood used in the 
construction is hinoki or keyaki ; 
that of the doors is cryptomeria. 
The rooms are named according to 
the objects painted on the sliding 
screens round their walls. Some 
have willow-trees, some palm-trees 
and tigers, some immense eagles 
hovering over pine-trees life-size ; 
others have fans, large baskets of 
flowers, etc., all by artists of the 
Kano school. The coffered ceilings, 
too, where not injured, are very 
handsome. The floors, formerly 
covered with soft mats of a specially 
rich thickness, are now reduced to 
the bare boards — a strange discord 
in the magnificent golden symphony. 
Their removal is said to have been 
caused by the desire to imitate 



European usage and lay carpets 
down, but this has never been done. 
The carvings in the ramma of some 
of the rooms are exquisitely minute. 
One pair, in particular, attributed 
to Hidari Jingoro, in the suite call- 
ed 0-hiroma, which represents pea- 
cocks, is a triumph of art. A 
peculiarity of some of these carved 
ramma is that, though appearing 
to be open-work and therefore 
identical on both sides, the two 
sides are in reality quite different 
from each other. Thus, where the 
obverse has peacocks, the reverse 
will have peonies. Most of the 
suites of apartments are connected 
by wooden doors having fine, bold 
paintings by unknown artists. One 
of these paintings is celebrated in 
the artistic world under the name 
of Naonobu no nure-sagi ("the wet 
heron by Naonobu"). It represents 
a heron perched on the gunwale of 
a boat. During the reign of pre- 
fectural vandalism, this precious 
work of art was used as a notice- 
board to paste notifications on ! 
The Sotetsu no Ma, or "Palmetto 
Boom," was entirely and irrecover- 
ably defaced at the same time. 

The most splendid apartment of 
all is the Go Taimenjo, or Hall of 
Audience, the last room in the suite 
called 0-hiroma. It positively 
blazes and sparkles with gold ; and 
the extraordinary size and boldness 
of the pine-trees painted all round 
it produce, in their simplicity, an 
impression which, when the place 
was the scene of the reception by a 
Shogun of his prostrate vassals, the 
Daimyos, must have been over- 
whelming. The metal fastenings 
are all gilt, and of exquisite work- 
manship. They represent chiefly 
phoenixes, conventional foliage, and 
the Tokugawa crest. Here, too, 
the mats have been replaced in the 
old style, — an evidence of good taste 
prompted, so it is said, by the re- 
marks of foreign visitors. Notice 
the two levels in the apartment. 
The raised portion (jodan) was for 
the Shogun, the lower (gedan) for 



Nijo and Katsura Palaces. Toji Temple. 



307 



ordinary mortals. The last apart- 
ment of the suite called Kuro-join 
is a smaller but equally gorgeous 
reception room — all gold, with 
double cherry-trees in full blossom. 
Observe the two beautiful shelves 
(chigai-dana) , one of which shows 
some rude early examples of 
cloisonne work, — small medallions 
with the Shogun's crest. The style 
of decoration of the Shiro-join, the 
innermost suite of all, differs from 
iihe rest, the fusuma being of dull 
gold painted in sepia with Chinese 
scenes by Kano Koi. At the very 
end of the Palace is another great 
Audience Hall, called Chokushi no 
Ma, or Apartment of the Imperial 
Ambassadors. It is resplendent 
with gold and great trees — peach, 
maple, etc. — painted life-size, and 
has a beautiful coffered ceiling and 
gilt metal fastenings. The minor 
rooms passed just before reaching it, 
and decorated with wild-geese and 
herons, were intended for Daimyds 
to transact business in. 

Katsura mo llikyii (Katsura 
Summer Palace). 

Formerly this retreat "belonged to Prin- 
cess Katsura, a member of the Imperial 
family. It has now been taken over as a 
summer palace or pleasure resort for the 
Mikado himself. 

The building itself is a ram- 
shackle place, not differing in style 
from any ordinary Japanese house. 
Only those will care to inspect it to 
whom every pencil-stroke of the 
artists of the Kano school, especially 
Kano Tan-yu, is precious. The 
walls are decorated by those artists, 
chiefly in sepia ; but most of the 
paintings are in a very bad state of 
preservation. The square bamboo 
frame to the r. on entering is called 
Tsuki-mi-dai, that is, " the Moon- 
gazing Frame," from the circum- 
stance that it was used by the 
inmates to sit out on and watch 
the moon rising over the pine-trees. 
The Garden is a perfectly repre- 
sentative example of the best style 
of Japanese landscape gardening, 
as practised by Kobori Enshu and 



the other aristocratic enthusiasts 
who, under the general name of 
Cha-no-yu, or "tea ceremonies, " 
cultivated all the arts from which 
esthetic enjoyment can be derived. 
All the summer-houses in this gar- 
den are in the Cha-no-yu style — very 
plain and primitive, as its canons 
ordain. Then too there are pools, 
artificial streams, rustic bridges, 
large stepping-stones brought from 
the two extremities of the Empire, 
trees trained in artificial shapes, 
islets, moss-clad hillocks, stone 
lanterns. The lake is full of a 
water-plant called kohone (marsh 
marigold), which generally bears 
only yellow flowers, but here has 
red ones as well. 

Toji. 

A Buddhist temple was first erected on 
this site in the middle of the 8th century, 
but was converted in A.D. 794 into a place 
of entertainment for envoys from China 
and Korea. Two years later, it reverted 
to its original purpose, and being, in A.D. 
823, bestowed by the reigning Mikado on 
Kobo Daishi, became the head-quarters 
of the Shingon sect of Buddhists whose 
doctrines that great saint had recently 
introduced from China. The buildings, 
which dated from 796, were burnt down 
in 1468. The present structures date from 
about 1640. It was close to this temple 
that stood in ancient times the city gate 
called RasJibmon, the scene of a portion of 
the legend of the Ogre of Oeyarua ( see Japa- 
nese Fairy Tale Series). Another legend at- 
taches to the pagoda. This edifice, it is 
said, after completion, began to lean to one 
side. Kobo Daishi, nothing daunted, pray- 
ed that it might be restored to the vertical 
position, and forthwith the pagoda stood 
straight. A more rationalistic version of 
the story is that Kobo Daishi corrected 
the tendency of the tower to lean to one 
side by digging a pond on the other ; and 
a pond full of lotuses is shown to this day 
as a mute witness to the truth of the 
legend. 

Tourists are advised to visit this 
temple on the 21st day of the month, 
when the festival of Kobo Daishi is 
held. Otherwise the place is apt to 
look desolate, especially now that 
the disestablishment of Buddhism 
is causing all but a few of the most 
popular temples to fall into neglect 
and consequent decay. Most of the 
buildings are in a rude style, with 
mud floors, pillars and beams co- 



308 



Boute 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



loured red with oxide of iron, and 
white plaster walls. Several of the 
images are attributed to the chisel 
of Kobo Daishi. The Reception 
Rooms of the monastery are un- 
usually handsome, but special per- 
mission must be obtained in order 
to visit them. The great artistic 
attraction of the place is the ex- 
quisite lacquer behind the altar. 

The Shinto Temple of Inari 
(Inari no Yashiro), on the road to 
Fushimi. 

This very popular Shinto temple, the 
prototype of the thousands of Inari tem- 
ples scattered all over the country, was 
founded in A.D. 711, when the Goddess of 
Bice is fabled to have first manifested her- 
self on the hill behind. Kobo Daishi is 
said to have met an old man in the vici- 
nity of Toji carrying a sheaf of rice on 
his back, whom he recognised as the deity 
of this temple, and adopted as the "Pro- 
tector" of that monastery. Hence the 
name Inari, which signifies " Rice-man," 
and is written with two Chinese charac- 
ters meaning " Rice-bearing." The first 
temple consisted of three small chapels 
on the three peaks of the hill behind, 
whence the worship of the goddess and 
ner companion deities was removed to its 
present site in 1246. Inari is said to have 
assisted the famous smith Kokaji to forge 
one of his historical swords, and to have 
here cut the rock with it in order to try 
its blade— a legend which forms the sub- 
ject-matter of one of the No, or Lyric 
Dramas. Hence this temple is regarded 
with special reverence by smiths and 
cutlers. The Inari deities annually visit 
the Shinto temple of Ise, leaving Kyoto 
on the 29th April and returning on the 
20th May, the journey being performed 
in their sacred cars. The best time to 
visit Inari is either on the 15th April, 
when the annual festival is held, or on the 
days of the Horse and Serpent in each 
month, when devotees make the circuit 
of the mountain {oyama guru). Streams 
of pilgrims may be found circulating up 
and down all night long on the night be- 
tween these two days. 

The chief entrance is by the great 
red torii on the main road, then up 
a flight of steps, and through a large 
gate flanked by huge stone foxes to 
the Haiden, or oratory. Thence one 
comes to the chief chapel (Honden), 
passing 1. the ex-voto shed and r. 
the kagura stage, and further on 
two stone foxes on pedestals, pro- 
tected by cages to prevent them 
from being defiled by birds. The 



pillars of the portal of the chief 
chapel are plain ; but the rest of the 
walls and pillars are painted red or 
white. Curtains (misu) hang down 
in front, and before each of the six 
compartments is suspended a large 
metal mirror about 18 in. in dia- 
meter. Two gilt homa-inu and 
ama-inu guard the extremities of 
the verandah. They have bright 
blue manes, and on the legs, locks 
of hair tipped with bright green. 
Behind, to the r., is a white godown 
in which the sacred cars are usually 
kept. They are celebrated for the 
great value of their decorations in 
gold, silver, copper, and iron. The 
plain building to the extreme 1. is 
the temple office (Shamusho). 

A path to the 1. leads up to a 
second level space where stand vari- 
ous insignificant shrines ; then up 
another flight of steps to a shrine 
called Kami no Yashiro y and thence 
up to the small Oku-no-in through 
more than 400 small red wood torii t 
placed so close together as to form 
two nearly parallel colonnades, one 
ascending, the other descending. 
Beyond the Oku-no-in , begins 1. 
what is termed the Hora-megur% 
or " Circuit of the Mountain Hol- 
lo wV' on account of various fox- 
holes by the way. Rather than 
make the entire circuit, which is 
a good ri in length and will take 
at least 1 hr., visitors pressed for 
time will do well to strike off r. 
to a place where there is a little 
tea-house (Sasayama-tei) on the 
top of a minor hill commanding a 
good view. This point can be 
reached in J hr. from the entrance 
to the temple grounds. On the 
way are passed large stone boulders 
with inscriptions, and walls round 
them, and numerous torii in 
front of each. At each of these 
" boulder shrines " is a large tea- 
shed. The top is called Ichi-no- 
viine, or more popularly Suehiro- 
san. One descends another way, 
the view just below the summit 
being particularly fine towards the 
S., including Uji with its river, the 



Inari, Tofukuji, and Sen-yuji Temples. 



309 



Kizugawa, Momoyama, Fushimi, 
Yawata, Yamazaki, and on the 
•other side the swamp of Ogura, the 
Kamogawa, the Katsura-gawa, and 
the Yodogawa. On the way down 
are a shrine called Chqja no Jinja, 
-a number of sacred boulders as be- 
fore, and some fox-holes called 
O Samba, supposed to be the places 
in which the vixens give birth to 
their young. Just above the latter, 
2 clw off the road, a fine view of the 
city is obtained. The path is good 
the whole way. The mountain is 
celebrated for producing the best 
mushrooms (matsutake) in Japan. 
The streets in the neighbourhood 
of the temple are crammed with 
little earthenware dolls and effigies 
called Fushimi ningyb. 

[The town of Fiisliimi, situated 
immediately to the S. of Inari, 
offers no attractions, though 
often mentioned in history. 
Here, on Momoyama, stood 
Hideyoshi's great palace, one of 
the vanished grandeurs of Old 
Japan. The citizens of Kyoto 
still visit this spot in spring 
to admire the peach blossom. 
Here, too, was fought a bloody 
battle between the Imperialists 
and the Shogun's partisans in 
January, 1868.] 

Tof nkinji, one of the chief monas- 
teries of the Zen sect, was founded 
by Shoichi Kokushi in the 13th cen- 
tury. It is noted for the maple- 
trees lining both sides of a gully 
which is spanned by a bridge or 
gallery called Tsu-ten-kyd, that is, 
4i the Bridge Communicating with 
Heaven." This gallery and a tower 
in the roof give to Tofukuji an 
original and striking appearance. 
Of the formerly very extensive 
buildings, only a few now remain. 
The temple contains some good 
wooden images, and a number of 
wonderful kakemonos of the Five 
Hundred Rakan by the famous artist 
<3ho Densu, who spent his long life 
here as a monk. But its greatest 
treasure is a huge kakemono by the 



same artist of Shaka's Entry into 
Nirvana {Nehanzo), 24 ft. by 48 ft. 
It is dated 1408, when the artist 
was 50 years old. This work of art 
is exposed to the public only on the 
17th November. In the Apart- 
ments, which were rebuilt in 1889, 
are some screens by Tosa Mitsunobu, 
Kano Eitoku, and Kano Motonori, 
together with kakemonos by good 
artists. 

Sen-yTiji lies in a hollow sur- 
rounded by pine-clad hills. It is 
remarkable as having been for over 
six centuries (1244-1868) the burial- 
place of the Mikados ; but as neither 
their tombs nor the various treasures 
of the temple are shown, there is 
little object in visiting it. The 
glimpse which can be caught of the 
mortuary shrine of Komei Tenno, 
father of the present Mikado, shows 
it to be handsome. 

The cliief treasure of Sen-yuji is one of 
Buddha's teeth, said to have been brought 
from China by the third abbot, Tankai. 
The story goes that as soon as the Buddha, 
died, a demon named Soshikki stole this 
tooth and ran away with it, but was pur- 
sued by the god Ida Ten, and forced to re- 
store the precious relic. Sixteen centuries 
later, the god presented it to a Chinese 
priest to whom he was under an obligation, 
and from this priest it passed into Tankai' s 
hands. It is kept in a beautif ully design- 
ed reliquary of gilt metal in the shape of 
a pagoda, about 3 ft. high, the upper part 
being of Chinese, and the platform on which, 
it stands of Japanese workmanship, dating 
from the Ashikaga period (14th-16th cen- 
turies). The tooth is enormous, and evi- 
dently belonged to some large quadruped, 
probably a horse. 

The insignificant little wooden 
bridge passed between Tofukuji and 
Senyuji deserves a word of mention. 
It is called Yume no Uki-hashi, or 
the Floating Bridge of Dreams, and 
was the place where, on the occa- 
sion of an Imperial interment, the 
fruit, cakes, and other perishable 
offerings to a dead Mikado were 
thrown away into the rivulet below 
as the procession marched slowly at 
midnight towards the place of 
sepulture. 

San-jii-san-g , en-do, the Temple 
of the 33,333 images of Kwannon, 
the Goddess of Mercy. 



310 



Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



Founded in 1132 by the ex-Emperor 
Toba who placed in it 1,001 images of 
Kwannon, to which the Emperor Go- 
Shirakawa afterwards added as many 
more in 1165, it was completedly destroyed 
with all its contents in 1249. In 1266 the 
Emperor Kameyama rebuilt it, and filled 
it with images of the Thousand-handed 
Kwannon to the number of 1,000. Its 
dimensions are 389 ft. by 57 ft. In 1662 
the Shogun Ietsuna restored the building, 
which takes its name, not from its length, 
but from the thirty-three spaces between 
the pillars, which form a single row from 
end to end. 

Few temples in Japan are more 
impressive than this, with its vast 
assemblage of gilded images rising 
tier behind tier. Each image 
is 5 ft. high, and all represent 
the Eleven-faced Thousand-handed 
Kwannon. There are 1,000 of these, 
the total number of 33,333 being 
obtained by including in the com- 
putation the smaller effigies on the 
foreheads, on the halos, and in the 
hands of the larger ones. Three 
hundred of the large images were 
executed by Kokei and Koei, two 
hundred by Unkei, and the remain- 
der by Shichijo Daibusshi. Though 
all represent the same divine person- 
age, it will be found that in spite 
of the general resemblance, no two 
have quite the same arrangement of 
hands and articles held in them. 
. The large seated figure in the centre 
is also a Kwannon, while standing 
round it are Kwannon's Eight-and- 
twenty Followers (Bushu). 

Tradition says that the ex-Mikado Go- 
Shirakawa (died A. D. 1192), being troubled 
with severe headaches which resisted 
all the usual remedies, made a pilgrim- 
age to the shrines of Kumano to 
pray for relief. He was directed by 
the gods to apply to a celebrated Indian 
physician then resident at a temple 
in the capital. On returning he at once 
proceeded thither, and became absorbed 
in prayer until midnight, when a monk of 
noble mien appeared, and informed him 
that in a previous state of existence His 
Majesty had been a pious monk of Kuma- 
no named Renge-bo, who for his merits 
had been promoted to the rank of Mikado 
in this present life ; but that his former 
skull was lying at the bottom of a river 
still undissolved, and that out of it grew 
a willow-tree which shook whenever the 
wind blew, thereby causing His Majesty's 
head to ache. On awaking from this 
Tision, the ex-Mikado sent to look for the 



skull, and having found it, caused it to be 
enclosed in the head of the principal 
Kwannon of this temple. 

It used formerly to be the custom for 
skilful archers to try how many arrows 
they could shoot from one end to the 
other of the verandah on the W. front of 
the building. This was called o-ya-Tcazu, 
orthe "greatest number of arrows." In 
1686 a retainer of the prince of Kishu is 
said to have won the prize, shooting 8,133 
out of 15,053 arrows right to the end. 

The grounds of the San-ju-san- 
gen-do contain an Art Museum: 
(Bijutsu-kwari). Also in the same- 
enclosure is the celebrated 

Daibutsu, or Great Buddha. 
In 1588 Hideyoshi built a temple to hold 
a large image of Roshana Butsu, the God 
of Light, in imitation of Yoritomo, who 
had originated the project of constructing- 
a Daibutsu at Kamakura. The temple 
was 200 ft. from the ground to the ridge 
of the roof, and the wooden image was 
160 ft. high. Both were destroyed by an 
earthquake in 1596. In the following 
year he rebuilt the temple, and placed in 
it the famous triple image of Amida, 
Kwannon, and Daiseishi, which he caused 
to be removed for this purpose from Zen- 
koji ; but after his death his widow re- 
stored it to the temple at Zenkoji, and set 
about the construction of a new Daibutsu. 
By the labour of several hundred work- 
men and artisans, a huge image was 
completed up to the neck ; but as they 
were engaged in casting its head, the 
scaffolding accidentally took fire, and all 
efforts to extinguish the flames being in- 
effectual, the temple was speedily reduced 
to ashes. This disaster occurred on the 
15th January, 1603 ; but no attempts to 
repair it were made until Ieyasu, in pur- 
suance of his policy of weakening his 
younger rival Hideyori by inducing him 
to undertake the reconstruction of famous 
buildings on a scale of magnificence cal- 
culated to exhaust his finances, persuaded 
him and his mother that due regard for 
Hideyoshi' s memory imposed upon them 
the obligation of seeing that his intention 
of rearing a worthy fane to Buddha was 
not finally frustrated. They joyfully 
adopted the suggestion, and at once set 
about the restoration of both image and 
building on the same colossal scale as 
before. By the spring of 1614 both were 
successfully completed, and the popula- 
tion of the capital and surrounding pro- 
vinces flocked in crowds to witness the 
opening ceremony. But the High Priests 
who, with the aid of a thousand bonzes 
of inferior grade, were to perform the 
dedicatory service, had hardly taken their 
places and commenced to repeat their 
liturgies, when two mounted messengers 
suddenly arrived from the Shogun' s Resi- 
dent, with orders to interrupt the pro- 
ceedings and forbid the consecration. 



The Daibutsu. Koshoji. 



311 



The disorder that ensued among the 
assemblage, baulked of the sight for 
which many of them had come a long 
distance, and ignorant of the cause of 
this unexpected termination of their 
holiday, ended in a riot which the police 
were unable to repress, and the city is 
said to have been actually sacked by the 
infuriated crowd of country people. It 
afterwards became known that Ieyasu 
had taken offence at the wording of the 
inscription on the great bell, into which 
the characters forming his name were 
introduced, by way of mockery, as he 
pretended to think, in the phrase Koklea 
anko, " May the state be peaceful and 
prosperous" (Jca and ko being the Chinese 
for ie and yam) ; while in another sentence 
which ran, " On the east it welcomes the 
bright moon, and on the west bids fare- 
well to the setting sun," he chose to dis- 
cover a comparison of himself to the lesser, 
and of Hideyori to the greater luminary, 
from which he then inferred an intention 
on the part of Hideyori to attempt his 
destruction. 

The dimensions of Hideyori's structure 
were: height 150ft., length 272 ft., and 
depth 167 i ft., while the roof was support- 
ed by 92 pillars of from 4-| to 5| ft. in dia- 
meter, composed of timbers bound toge- 
ther by stout iron rings, one or two of 
which have been preserved. The seated 
figure of the Buddha was 58^ ft. high. In 
1662 an earthquake destroyed both the 
building and the image, and the greater 
part of the latter was melted down into 
copper coins. In 1667 a wooden image of 
the same dimensions, lacquered a bronze 
colour, was constructed in its stead. This 
was damaged by lightning in 1775, but 
restored, only to be set on fire again by 
the same agency in 1798 and utterly con- 
sumed. The present image was built in 
1801 at the expense of a public-spirited 
merchant of Osaka. 

The Daibutsu consists only of a 
head and shoulders without a body ; 
but even so, it reaches to the ceiling 
of the lofty hall in which it is kept. 
The material is wood. The head is 
gilt, but not the shoulders. The di- 
mensions are stated as follows : — 

Height 58 ft. 

Length of face 30 ,, 

Breadth of face 21 ,, 

Length of eyebrow 8 ,, 

Length of eye 5 „ 

Length of nose 9 ,, 

Breadth of nostril 2 ,, 3 in. 

Length of mouth 8 ,, 7 ,, 

Length of ear 12 ,, 

Breadth of shoulders. . . 43 ,, 

Round the walls hang 188 cheap 
modern pictures of Kwannon paint- 



ed on paper, each inscribed with a 
stanza of poetry. There are also 
some large pieces of iron, relics of 
the pillars of the former building. 
At the top of a gallery behind the 
image is a rude altar containing a 
black image of Fudo, which Hide- 
yoshi used to consider as his guar- 
dian spirit in battle. By going 
round this gallery, one sees into the 
inside of the image, which is hollow 
but contains a quantity of beam- 
work. 

The huge Bell already alluded 
to is seen on quitting the Dai- 
butsu. It is nearly 14 ft. high, 
9 in. thick, 9 ft. in diameter, and 
weighs over 63 tons, being thus one 
of the two biggest bells in Japan, 
and larger than that of Ta-chung-szu 
in Peking, which has been account- 
ed the largest suspended bell in the 
world. Its companion in size is at 
Ghion-in, also in Kyoto. That at 
Nara comes third. The Daibutsu 
bell hangs in a new belfry dating 
from 1884, the ceiling of which is 
gaudily decorated with paintings of 
Buddhist angels. 

The new Shinto shrine, called 
Toyokuni no Yashiro, near to the 
belfry on the 1. as one departs, is 
dedicated to Hideyoshi, who was 
buried on a hill close by. The 
handsome gate, which is an old 
one, was brought from his palace of 
Momoyama at Fushimi. 

Opposite is the Mimi-zuka, or 
Ear Mound, beneath which were 
buried the ears and noses of Koreans 
slain in the war which Hideyoshi 
waged against their country in the 
years 1592 and 1597. They were 
brought home by his soldiers instead 
of the more usual trophies of heads, 
as evidence of the exploits performed 
in his service. 

Koslioji, a large temple next door 
to the Nishi Hongwanji (see next 
page), was founded in the 15th cen- 
tury, but the present buildings date 
only from the 18th century. The 
interior of the building is 28 yds. 
square, and is in the same style as 



312 



Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



the Nishi Hongwanji. In the 
Apartments are to he seen good 
paintings of storks by Kano Eitei, 
of about the year 1700, and a suite 
of three side-rooms containing paint- 
ings by artists of the Shijo school. 

iloiikokuji, close to the Nishi 
Hongwanji on the N., is remarkable 
chiefly for the vast area over which 
its buildings are scattered, and for 
the fact that it was the first monas- 
tery founded by Nichiren when he 
established the sect which bears his 
name. 

Nishi Hongwaitj!, the head- 
quarters of the Western branch of 
the Hongwanji sect of Buddhists, is 
a grand massive structure, as usual 
with the temples of this sect. The 
principal gate is decorated with 
beautifully carved designs of the 
chrysanthemum flower and leaf. 
The wire netting covering its inte- 
rior part is placed there, as in a 
good many other edifices, in order 
to prevent birds from building their 
nests among the rafters. The ap- 
parently useless wall just inside 
the gate serves the purpose of 
securing privacy for the temple by 
shutting out the view from the 
street. The large tree (a Gingko 
biloba, Jap. icho) in the courtyard 
is supposed to protect the temple 
against fire, by discharging showers 
of water whenever a conflagration 
in the vicinity threatens danger. 
The interior of the main building 
is 138 ft. in length by 93 ft. in 
depth, and the floor covers an area 
of 477 mats. As usual in the tem- 
ples of this sect, the nave (gejin) 
is perfectly plain, of Jccyaki wood, 
with white plaster walls. R. and 1. 
of the chancel are two spacious 
chambers 24 ft. by 36 ft., with gilt 
pillars and walls, decorated with the 
lotus-flower and leaf. In them hang 
large kakemonos nearly 200 years 
old inscribed with invocations to 
Amida in large gold characters on a 
dark blue ground surrounded by a 
glory, and portraits of the succes- 
sive heads of the sect. The front 
of the nave is completely gilt, and 



has gilt trellised folding doors and 
sliding screens decorated with snow 
scenes, representing the plum-tree, 
pine, and bamboo in their winter 
covering, the ramma being filled 
with gilt open-work carvings of 
the peony. The cornice is decorat- 
ed with coloured arabesques. In 
the centre of the chancel (nai- 
jin) is the shrine, covered with gilt 
and painted carved floral designs. 
It contains a seated effigy in black 
wood of the Founder, about 2 ft. 
high, said to be from his own hand. 
Before it stands a wooden altar, the 
front of which is divided into small 
panels of open-work flowers and 
birds against a gilt background. 
The central apartment has a fine 
cornice of gilt and painted wood- 
work, and a coffered ceiling with the 
shippo and hana crest on a gold 
ground. The dim light renders 
much of the detail obscure. The 
building was erected about 1591 or 
1592, and the decorations have been 
since renewed every fifty years. 

Next to the main temple, but of 
smaller dimensions, is the Kodo or 
Amida-do, 96 ft. wide by 87 ft. in 
depth, divided in the same way, but 
having only one apartment, 30 ft. 
by 36 ft., on each side of the central 
chapel, with a dead-gold wall at the 
back, and a coffered ceiling with 
coloured decorations on paper. 
Fancy portraits of Shdtoku Taishi 
and the " Seven Great Priests of 
India, China and Japan," including 
Honen Shonin, founder of the Jodo 
sect, from which the Shin or Hon- 
gwanji sect is an offshoot, hang in 
these two apartments. A handsome 
shrine, with slender gilt pillars and 
a design composed of the chrysan- 
themum flower and leaf, contains a 
gilt wooden statuette of Amida, 
about 3 ft. high, so much discol- 
oured by age as to look quite black. 
It is attributed to the famous sculp- 
tor Kasuga Busshi. Over the gilt 
carvings of tree-peonies in the 
ramma are carvings of angels in full 
relief. A sliding-screen close to the 
entrance on the r. of the altar, 



Nishi and Higashi Hongwanji Temples. 



313 



painted with a peacock and peahen 
on a gold ground, perched on a 
peach-tree with white blossoms, by- 
one of the Kano school, is worth 
special notice. Application should 
be made for permission to visit the 
State Apartments, which are very 
fine. On the way in are some sliding 
panels by Kano Eitoku, which were 
brought from Hideyoshi's often- 
mentioned palace at Fushimi. The 
largest room (Taimenjo), 69 ft. deep 
•and 54 ft. wide, has good paintings 
on the walls by Kano Hidenobu ; the 
storks in the ramma are attributed 
to Hidari Jingoro. Next comes a 
small room with bamboos on a gold 
ground, and a coffered ceiling with 
floral paintings, by artists of the 
Kano school. Another room has 
wall-paintings of geese in all posi- 
tions on a gold ground. It must be 
noted, however, that these paintings 
are on large sheets of paper, which 
have been fixed in their places after 
having been executed in a horizon- 
tal position. 

True wall-paintings, that is, paintings 
executed on a vertical surface, are extreme- 
ly rare in Japan, the only well-authen- 
ticated examples known to us being the 
series of paintings on lacquer at the back 
of the main altar in the temple of Kwan- 
non at Asakusa in Tokyo, those on plaster 
in the Kondb of the monastery of Horyu- 
ji near Nara, and some in the lower 
storey of the pagoda of Toji. 

The room beyond is decorated 
with chrysanthemums on the walls, 
and fans in the compartments of 
the ceiling. We next pass through 
an apartment decorated with pea- 
cocks and cherry-trees, and gilt 
carvings of the wild camellia and 
phcenix in the ramma ; then a room 
with Chinese landscapes on a gold 
ground and carvings of wistaria in 
the ramma, and another with 
Chinese architectural scenes and 
landscapes. These form the suite 
called O-biroma, or Chief Audience 
Room, and the paintings are from 
the brush of Hasegawa Ryokei. In 
the courtyard opposite to this suite, 
is a stage for the performance of 
the No. Passing a small room de- 



corated with Chinese hunting 
scenes, and proceeding along a 
corridor, we reach an apartment 
called Taiko Kubi-jikken no Ma, 
that is, the room where Hideyoshi 
used to inspect the heads of his 
opponents killed in battle, also from 
the palace of Fushimi, with drums 
painted on the ceiling and gilt 
open-work carvings of the flying 
squirrel and grapes in the ramma. 

Leaving the Apartments, we cross 
a small court to the gateway known 
as the Chokushi Mon, or Gate of 
the Imperial Messenger, formerly 
sparkling with gold, but now some- 
what faded. The carvings are at- 
tributed to Hidari Jingoro. The 
subject on the transverse panels is 
Kyo-yo (Hsii-yu), a hero of early 
Chinese legend, who, having re- 
jected the Emperor Yao's proposal 
to resign the throne to him, is re- 
presented washing his ear at a 
waterfall to get rid of the pollution 
caused by the ventilation of so 
preposterous an idea ; the owner of 
the cow opposite is supposed to 
have quarrelled with him for thus 
defiling the stream, at which he 
was watering his beast. The build- 
ings in foreign style hard by the 
Nishi Hongwanji, just outside what 
is known as the Daidokoro-Mon, or 
Kitchen Gate, are a seminary for 
young priests and a girl's school, 
both under the control of this tem- 
ple, and both imparting a modern 
education. If time permits, the 
traveller may end his inspection 
of the Hongwanji by going over the 
Hi-un-kaku, or Pavilion of the Fly- 
ing Clouds. In one of the upper 
rooms is a sketch on a gold-paper 
ground, attributed to Kano Moto- 
nobu (but more probably by Kano 
Eitoku), called the Gyogi no Fuji, 
or Euji of Good Manners, because 
the outlines can hardly be dis- 
tinguished unless the spectator 
takes up a respectful kneeling at- 
titude on the floor. 

Higashi Hongwanji. 

This, an offshoot of the Nishi Hong wan* 
ji, was founded in 1602, and destroyed by 



314 



Route 39, — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



fire in 1864 during the unsuccessful at- 
tempt made by the followers of the Prince 
of Choshu to seize the person of the Mikado. 
The new edifice has only just been com- 
pleted. 

This temple, probably the largest 
in Japan, well deserves a visit on 
account of its noble proportions, 
and as showing what a fine Bud- 
dhist temple looks like when new. 
So far as plan and style are concern- 
ed, the orthodox model of the temples 
of the Hongwanji sect has been 
faithfully adhered to, both in the 
Daishi-do, or Founders's Hall (the 
main building), and in the sub- 
sidiary Amida-do. Note the splen- 
did bronze lanterns, four in number, 
at the entrance. The wood of all 
such portions of the temple as 
are meant to meet the eye is 
keyaki ; the beams in the ceiling 
are of pine. There are some good 
carvings of the signs of the zodiac, 
of waves, of bamboos, etc. The 
chief dimensions of the main build- 
ing are approximately as follows : 

Length 210 ft. 

Depth 170 „ 

Height 120 „ 

Number of large 

pillars 96 

Number of tiles on 

roof 163,512 

Notwithstanding what has often 
been said with regard to the decay 
of Japanese Buddhism, the rebuild- 
ing of this grand temple has been a 
strictly popular enterprise. All the 
surrounding provinces have contri- 
buted their quota — vast sums in the 
aggregate — while many peasants, 
considering gifts in kind to be more 
honourable and, as it were, more 
personal than gifts in money, have 
presented timber or other materials. 
The name of the architect of the 
main building is Ito Heizaemon, a 
native of Owari. The Amida-do is 
by Kinoko Tosai, a citizen of Kyoto. 

Kenitinji, a monastery of the Zen 
sect, founded by the abbot Eisai in 
1203, has little, from a tourist's 
point of view, to justify its local 



celebrity. The grounds are extensive, 
and contain numerous suites of 
apartments for the use of the monks, 
who have the reputation of profound 
Buddhistic learning. A fair for the 
sale of ' old clo,' is held here on 
the 10th of every month. 

From the name of this temple is derived 
the term kenninji, applied to fences of 
split bamboos fastened close together 
against horizontal lattens. 

MsM Otani is the burial-place 
of the larger portion of the body of 
Shinran Shonin, transferred here 
in 1603 from a spot now included 
within the grounds of Ohion-in. 
The stone bridge spanning the lotus- 
pond is termed Megane-bashi, from 
its resemblance to a pair of spec- 
tacles. Several of the ornamental 
knobs on the balustrade can be 
turned round. A flight of steps 
leads to the handsome main gate, 
inside which 1. stands, as usual in 
the temples of this sect, the Taiko- 
do, a handsomely carved two-storied 
structure, which is used as a place 
of confinement for refractory priests, 
and receives its name from the 
drum (taiko) which they are set to 
beat as a penance. There are some 
handsome bronzes in front of the 
main temple, a new building plain 
outside, but with a sufficiently 
handsome interior, a striking effect 
being produced by the restriction 
of gold ornamentation to the vicinity 
of the altar. A gilt figure of Amida 
stands in a gold lacquer shrine. 

In the court behind is an office 
for the reception of the ashes of 
members of the sect from all parts 
of the country, whose relations pay 
to have their remains deposited 
with those of Shinran Shonin, in- 
stead of going to the expense of a 
monument in the adjacent cemetery. 
The Kyoto members, on the con- 
trary, are interred in the cemetery. 
Opposite is the oratory in front of 
the tomb, which is so concealed 
behind a triple fence as to be in- 
visible. The path up the hill leads 
through the cemetery to the W. gate 
of the temple of 



Temple of Kiyomizu. 



315 



Kiyomizu-dera. 

The origin of this temple is lost in the 
mists of antique fable. According to the 
legend, the novice Enchin, having dreamt 
that he saw a golden stream flowing 
down into the Yodogawa, went in search 
of it, and ascending to its source, found 
there an old man sitting under a tree, 
who gave his name as Gyoei, and said : 
" I have been here for the last two hundred 
years repeating the invocation to Kwan- 
iion, and waiting for you to relieve me. 
Take my place for a while, that I may 
perform a journey which is required of 
me. This is a suitable spot for the erec- 
tion of a hermitage, and the log which 
you see lying here will supply the 
material for an image of the Most Com- 
passionate One," (i.e. Kwannon). With 
these words he disappeared, leaving the 
novice in charge of the solitude. After a 
while, finding that the old man did not 
return, Enchin climbed a neighbouring 
hill, and discovered a pair of shoes lying 
on its summit, from which he inferred 
that the mysterious old man was none 
other than Kwannon in human form, who 
had left the snoes behind on re-ascending 
to heaven. He now determined to make 
the image of the god, but found his 
strength insufficient, and passed seve- 
ral years looking at the log, vainly plan- 
ning how to overcome the difficulty. 
Twenty years had elapsed, when one 
day good luck guided the warrior Saka- 
noe-no-Tamura-Maro, who was in pursuit 
of a stag, to this very spot. While he 
was resting, Enchin represented his diffi- 
culties to the hunter, who was struck 
with admiration at the untiring devotion 
of the novice, and subsequently, having 
taken counsel with his wife, gave his 
own house to be pulled down and re- 
erected by the side of the cascade as a 
temple for the image, which was now at 
last completed. 

A steep street of shops, where 
little earthenware dolls (Fushimi 
ningyo) cf every variety are to be 
had, leads up to the temple, which 
is situated in a striking position on 
the hill-side and commands a justly 
celebrated view of the city. The 
two-storied gateway at the top of 
the steps dates from the Ashikaga 
period, and contains a pair of huge 
Ni-6. One may pass either through 
it, or through another gate higher 
up which abuts on the three-storied 
pagoda. To the 1. of and beyond 
the pagoda are several minor 
chapels. The visitor then passes 
up through a colonnade to the Hondo 
or main temple, whose rough-hewn 



columns and bare floor produce an 
unusual impression. Indeed the 
whole aspect of Kiyomizu is unique 
and original, notwithstanding a 
certain dowdiness which seems to 
have taken possession of it. The 
main temple is dedicated to the 
Eleven - faced Thousand - handed 
Kwannon, whose seated image, a 
little over 5 ft. high, is contained 
in a shrine that is opened only once 
in thirty-three years. R. and 1. are 
images of the Eight-and-twenty 
Followers of Kwannon, and at each 
end of the platform stand two of the 
Shi-Tenno. The shrine at the E. 
end contains an image of Bishamon, 
who, as tradition tells us, appeared 
to Tamura-Maro, in company with 
Jizo (whose image, attributed to the 
sculptor Enchin, is enclosed in the 
W. shrine), and promised him aid in 
his expedition against the Ainos of 
N.E. Japan. Pictures of the three 
hang at one end of the inner chapel. 
The building is 190J ft. long by 88J 
ft. in depth, and 53 ft. in height 
from the platform. It has a wooden 
platform in front, called the butai 
(dancing stage), supported on a lofty 
scaffolding of solid beams, and two 
small projecting wings which serve 
as orchestra (gakuya). An open 
hall full of ex-voto pictures, extend- 
ing the whole length of the front,, 
abuts on the dancing stage. To it 
succeeds a long narrow matted cor- 
ridor called the naijin, while the 
closed chamber which contains the 
shrines is called nai-naijin ; the 
front part of this is sunk below the 
floor and paved with squared stones. 
Lights are always kept burning in 
the temple, and worshippers pass in 
and out all night. A feature adding 
to the peculiar aspect of the place 
is the abyss which divides the main 
temple from the Oku-no~in dedicat- 
ed to Kwannon, which is built out 
from the opposite hill on piles. 
It stands on the site of Gyoei's hut. 
Below is a small cascade called the 
Otowa no taki. On the hill to the 
1. are various shrines of lesser size 
and importance. 



316 



Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



The Yasaka Pagoda, five storeys 
high, is worth ascending for the 
sake of the near and complete view 
which it affords of the city ; but the 
ladder-like staircase is unpleasantly 
steep for ladies. This pagoda, like 
many others in Japan, is dedicated 
to four Nyorai, namely, Hojo on 
the S., Amida on the W., Ashuku 
on the E., and Shaka on the N. 
On the eight panels of the doors are 
paintings on a thin coating of 
plaster. Of the four images, that 
of Shaka alone is old. On the in- 
terior walls and pillars are paintings 
of various Buddhist deities. 

This pagoda is said to have been found- 
ed by Shotoku Taishi about the end of the 
6th century, but another account makes 
it date from 679. The present building 
dates from 1618. 

Ko(laiji 9 noted for its relics of 
Hideyoshi, belongs to the Rinzai 
branch of the Zen sect. 

Founded in A.D. 83S, it underwent many 
vicissitudes, and was rebuilt in 1605 by 
Hideyoshi' s widow, in order that services 
might be performed there for the benefit 
of the souls of Hideyoshi and his mother. 
In 1 8b'3 some renins set the principal build- 
ings on fire, because it was announced 
that the ex-Prince of Echizen, whom they 
looked upon as an enemy of the Mikado's 
party, was about to take up his quarters 
there. The greater part of the buildings 
perished on this occasion ; but some few 
portions, together with the fine garden, 
still remain. 

The visitor is first ushered into 
the Apartments, which, though of 
modest proportions, contain some 
good works of art. There are gold 
screens by Kano Motonobu, Kano 
Koi, and Hasegawa Tohaku. One 
by Matahei is very curious, as re- 
presenting the arrival of Korean 
envoys at Sakai in Japan, while a 
brilliant but anonymous kakemono 
depicts the Chinese Emperor Shin- 
no-Shiko. There are also various 
relics of Hideyoshi and his wife 
— his writing-box in mother-of-pearl, 
the black lacquered ' horse ' on 
which she hung her clothes, etc. 

From the Apartments the acolyte 
who acts as cicerone will show the 
way to the Garden, which was de- 
signed by the celebrated esthete, 



Kobori Enshu. Its picturesque 
effect is much assisted by the two 
lofty pine-clad hills that rear their 
heads over the trees at the back. 
We are next made to pass up a 
gallery, which was brought from 
Momoyama. Hideyoshi used to 
sit on the little square in the 
middle of this gallery to gaze 
at the moon. Then one comes to 
the Kaisan-do, or Founder's Hall, 
the painted ornamentation of which 
is highly original in style. The 
ceiling is made of the top of Hide- 
yoshi' s wife's carriage, and from a 
portion of the roof of the war-junk 
prepared for Hideyoshi's use in his 
expedition against Korea. The four 
panels of the shrine were painted 
by Kano Motonobu. A curious in- 
cense-burner in front of the little 
altar was brought from Korea by 
Kato Kiyomasa, and is shaped like 
an octopus. The dragon on the 
ceiling is by Kano Eitoku. From 
the Founder's Hall we pass up 
another covered gallery named the 
Givaryo no Roka, that is, the Cor- 
ridor of the Sleeping Dragon, to the 
O Tamaya, or Mortuary Chapel, 
which contains a seated effigy of 
Hideyoshi in a shrine having panels 
of black lacquer with designs in thin 
gold taken from his wife's carriage. 
The hat was one given to him by 
the Emperor of China. On the 
opposite side is the effigy of his wife 
(Kita-no-Mandokoro) in the garb of 
a Buddhist nun. The Thirty-six 
Poets, by Tosa Mitsunobu, hang 
round the walls. Four sliding 
screens by Kano Motonobu, much 
injured by time, are also shown. 
Note the gold pattern on the black 
lacquer steps inside the altar. It 
represents rafts and fallen cherry- 
blossoms floating down the current 
of a river. The way leads down the 
gallery again, and so out. The 
guide may offer to take the traveller 
up to the Shignre no Cliin and 
Karakusa no Chin on the hill be- 
hind ; but they are not worth spend- 
ing time over, being mere little 
thatched summer-houses, old and 



Slwgun-zuha. Temple of Higashi Otani. 



317 



quite abandoned. Better worth 
doing, — especially if the ascent of 
Shogun-zuka be abandoned, — is the 
short walk up to the Shokon-hi hard 
by, a monument erected in memory 
of warriors who fell at various times 
in the service of their monarch and 
country, whence there is a delight- 
ful view of the city. 

Shognn-zitka is about 570 ft. 
above the river. 

It takes its name, which means the 
Generalissimo's Mound, from the tradi- 
tion that when the Emperor Kwammu 
removed his capital to its present situa- 
tion, he buried here the effigy of a warrior 
in full armour, provided with a bow and 
arrows, to act as the protecting deity of 
the new city. According to popular 
belief, this guardian warrior was none 
other than the famous Tamura Maro. 

The eminence commands a wide 
prospect over the city and sur- 
rounding country, up to the moun- 
tains bounding the province of Yama- 
shiroonthe W. andN. Just below are 
the two-storied gateway of Chion-in 
and the temple of Gion, from which 
Shijo Street can be traced right 
across the city. Above the Shijo 
bridge are the Sanjd and Nijo 
bridges, below ifc that of Gojo. The 
high mountain with a clump of 
trees on its top, bearing nearly N.W., 
is Atago-yama. A long white wall 
under it indicates Ninnaji or Omuro 
Gosho, to be recognised also by its 
pagoda. In front of this again is 
the Nijo Palace, and much nearer, 
and further to the r., the Roman 
Catholic Church. By following the 
line of the Nijo bridge we perceive 
the garden of what was formerly the 
Palace of the abdicated Mikado, and 
behind it the Palace of the reign- 
ing Mikado. A little W. of N. is 
the broad bed of the Kamogawa ; at 
the base of the mountain range 
from which this river issues lies the 
temple of Kami-Gamo, beyond 
which is the mountain road to 
Kurama. At the junction of the 
Kamogawa and Hirano-gawa is a 
dense grove which conceals the 
temples of Shimo-Gamo and Kawai. 
The summit of Hiei-zan bears N.E. 



by N. Half-way between its foot 
and the spectator lie Kurodani 
with its pagoda and numerous build- 
ings, and the large roof of Shin- 
nyo-do with its pagoda further W. 
Nearer is the two-storied gate of 
Nanzenji, half-hidden among the 
trees. A little S. of W. are the two 
high roofs of Nishi Hongwanji and 
the single large hall of Koshoji. A 
little further S. is the pagoda of 
Tdji beyond the railway station, and 
S,W. in the far distance are Tenno- 
zan at the end of the Western 
Hills (Nishiyama) above Yamazaki 
station, and the Yodogawa flowing 
gently along its half-choked bed 
towards the sea, From the E. brow 
of the hill the view commands the 
Tokaido and the railway winding 
round the base of the opposite 
range. 

Nearer than Shdgun-zuka to the 
city proper, is M ariiyama, a suburb 
almost exclusively occupied by tea- 
houses — the resort of holiday- 
makers bent on dancing, drinking, 
or bathing. Some may find it more 
convenient to visit the Higashi Ota- 
ni, Gion, and Chion-in temples first, 
and to take Maruyama and Shogun- 
zuka afterwards. 

Higashi Otani, is the burial-place 
of a portion of the remains of Shin- 
ran Shonin, founder of the Monto 
or Hongwanji sect, of Kennyo the 
founder of this its Eastern branch, 
and of Kennyo's successors the 
later abbots. The grounds are 
extensive, and finely situated on a 
hill-side facing Atago-yama and 
Kurama-yama. An avenue of pine- 
trees leads up to the gateway, which 
is decorated with good carvings of 
chrysanthemums. The chapel {lion- 
do), though small, is a glorious 
specimen of Buddhistic art— lovely 
in its rich simplicity of gold, with no 
other colours to distract the eye. 
On the altar is a wooden statuette 
of Amida by the sculptor Kwaikei. 
In a shrine at the side hangs a 
portrait of Shiuran Shonin. Observe 
the " wheel of the law," repeated 



318 



Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



nine times on the frieze above the 
main altar. A flight of steps behind 
the chapel leads np to the tomb, in 
front of which stands a beautiful 
gate carved by Hidari Jingoro. The 
panels at the sides of this gate, 
originally gilt, represent 1. the carp 
ascending a cascade — the symbol of 
effort and success in life — and r. the 
lioness casting her cub down a 
precipice in order to harden it, both 
favourite motives with the artists of 
Japan. On the top of the tomb 
lies a remarkable stone called the 
" tiger-stone " (tora-ishi). The ar- 
rangements for interring members 
of the sect are similar to those at 
the Nishi Otani (see p. 314). In 
the grounds near the chapel is a 
splendid bronze fountain, lotus- 
shaped with a dragon rampant atop. 
As in the Nishi Otani temple, so 
here too there is a Taiko-do for the 
confinement of refractor}^ priests. 

Qion bo Yashiro, less often 
called Yasaka no Yashiro, stands 
close to Higashi Ofcani. 

This Ryobu Shinto temple is said to 
have been founded in A. D . 658 by a Korean 
envoy in honour of Susano-o. G-ion-ji 
was the name given to a Buddhist 
temple dedicated to Yakushi and Kwan- 
non which stood in the same enclosure, 
and by popular usage the name Gion 
came to be applied to the Shinto temple 
as well. Gion, it may be observed for the 
sake of those familiar with Indian Bud- 
dhism, is the Japanese rendering of Jeta- 
vana Vihdra, the name of the park or 
monastery presented to Buddha by 
Anathapindaka. 

Though widely known and much 
frequented by worshippers, this 
temple produces an impression of 
shabbiness. The chief building 
(Honden) is 69 ft. long by 57 ft. in 
depth, and is roofed with a thick 
layer of bark. The annual festival 
takes place on the 15fch June. 

Cli ion-in, the principal monastery 
of the Jodo sect, stands on a hill in 
Eastern Kyoto in a situation recall- 
ing that of many fortresses. Near 
its gate in Awata-guchi is the cele- 
brated pottery of Kinko-zan. 

This temple was founded in 1211 
by Enko Daishi, also known as H6- 
nen Shonin. He was born in 1133 



of respectable parents in the province 
of Mimasaka, and various portents are 
said to have accompanied his birth. 
At the age of nine he was entered as 
a pupil at a seminary in his native pro- 
vince; but his teacher, recognising his 
exceptional powers, sent him up to the 
great monastery onHiei-zan in 1147, with 
a letter containing only these words : " I 
send you an image of the great sage 
Monju." On the letter being presented, 
the priest to whom it was addressed asked 
where the image was, and was much 
astonished when the child alone appeared 
before him. But the young novice soon 
justified the implied estimate of his great 
intellectual powers, and made such rapid 
progress in his studies that at the end 
of the same year he was judged fit to be 
admitted to the priesthood. The prospect 
was held out to him of ultimately obtain- 
ing the headship of the Tendai sect ; but 
he preferred to devote himself to the study 
of theology, and finally developed a special 
doctrine of salvation, or the road to the 
" Pure Land," from which the new sect 
was named Jodo, this word having the 
same meaning as the Sanskrit Sukhavdti 
or "Pure Land," the heaven of Amida. 
In 1207 he settled at Kyoto near the site of 
the present monastery, and there breathed 
his last in A.D. 1212 at the age of 79. 

The buildings were twice destroyed by 
fire in the 15th century, and once again at 
the beginning of the 16th. Ieyasu rebuilt 
the monastery in 1603 ; but it was burnt 
again in 1633, with the exception of the 
two-storied entrance-gate, the library, 
and the Seishi-do. Its restoration was im- 
mediately commenced, and in 1630, during; 
the reign of Iemitsu, the whole was com- 
pleted. 

A broad avenue between banks 
planted with cherry-trees leads, up 
to the main entrance, or Sammon, a 
huge two-storied structure 81 ft. by 
37 J ft., the total height from the 
ground being 80 ft. A staircase on 
the S. side gives access to the upper 
storey, which contains images of 
Shaka, with Sudatta and Zenzai 
Doji on his r. and L, and beyond 
them on each side eight Rakan in 
elaborate dresses, all about life-size, 
the work of a sculptor named Koyu. 
The cornices and cross-beams are 
richly decorated with coloured ara- 
besques, geometrical patterns, and 
fabulous animals. The ceilings, 
which lose their effect by being too 
low, have dragons and angels on a 
yellow ground. The gallery outside 
commands a charming view of the 
city through the pine-tree tops, while 



Temple of Chion-in. 



319 



to the N. towards Hiei-zan the pros- 
pect is wonderfully beautiful. At 
the S. end there is another pretty 
view of the densely wooded hills. 
Two flights of steps, one steep, the 
other rising gently, conduct us to 
the great court, and to the front of 
the Hondo, or Main Temple. On 
the r., on a small elevation among 
the trees, stands the bell-tower, 
oompleted in 1618, containing the 
Great Bell, height 10.8 ft., diameter 
9 ft., thickness 9J in., weight 
125,000 catties (nearly 74 tons), cast 
in 1633. The Hondo, which faces 
S., is 167 ft. in length by 138 ft. in 
depth, and 94^ ft. in height from the 
ground, thus being the largest build- 
ing of the kind in Kyoto. It is 
dedicated to Enko Daishi, whose 
shrine stands on a stage, called 
Shumi-dan, at the back of the 
chancel, within a space [marked off 
by four tall gilt pillars. The gilt 
metal lotuses in bronze vases, 
which stand before the front pillars, 
reach a height of 21 ft. from the 
floor, being nearly half the height 
of the building. The dimensions 
and the confinement of decoration 
to this single part render this 
interior very effective. On the W. 
of the chief shrine is a second con- 
taining memorial tablets of leyasu 
and his mother and of Hidetada, 
while on the opposite side (E.) are 
Amida in the centre and the memo- 
rial tablets of successive abbots. 
Under the eaves of the front gallery 
is an umbrella, said to have flown 
thither from the hands of a boy 
whose shape had been assumed by 
the Shinto god of Inari, guardian 
deity of this monastery. 

East of the Main Temple is the 
Library, containing a complete copy 
of the Buddhist canon. Behind 
the Main Temple, and connected 
with it by a gallery, is the Shueido, 
containing two good altars, one of 
which holds Amida by Eshin Sozu, 
with Kwannon and Seishi r. and 1., 
the other a very large gilt Amida by 
the brothers Kebunshi and Kebun- 
do. To the r. of the big image sits 



Monju in the costume of a priest. 
After viewing these, one is shown 
over the Goten, or Palace built by 
lemitsu, which is divided into two 
parts, called respectively the O-Hojo 
and Ko-Hojo. The decorations on 
the sliding screens by artists of the 
Kano school are very fine. There 
are two rooms painted with cranes 
and pine-trees by Naonobu; then 
other rooms with pine-trees only, by 
Naonobu and Nobumasa, once 
occupied by the Mikado. At the 
place where the sets of apartments 
meet is a wooden door with a cat, 
much admired by the Japanese 
because it appears to front the 
spectator from whatever point of 
view he may observe it. One fine 
room by Eitoku has snow scenes, 
unfortunately somewhat faded. The 
next room, also adorned with snow 
scenes, was the reception room of 
the Imperial Prince who acted as 
high priest (Kwacho-no-Miya). The 
Sixteen Bakan in the next room to 
this are by Nobumasa. _Ke turning 
to the back of the O-Hojo, we 
reach a small eight-matted room 
decorated by Naonobu with the 
plum and bamboo, which is called 
Miya Sama no o Tokudo no Ma, 
that is, "the room in which the 
Prince was initiated into the priest- 
hood." The chrysanthemums in 
the room next to this are by Nobu- 
masa, by whom too are the cele- 
brated sparrow (nuke-suzume) which 
flew through the screen after it was 
painted, and the i-naori no sagi, or 
" egret in the act of rising." In the 
verandah are a pair of wooden 
doors painted with pine-trees, which 
are said to have been so life-like as 
to exude resin. After these come 
rooms by Tan-yu, with willow-trees 
and plum-blossoms covered with 
snow. The monastery is rich in 
MSS. which, however, can only be 
seen by making application through 
the city authorities, The tomb of 
Enko Daishi is situated further up 
the hill, and is reached by ascending 
the steps E. of the Hondo. Close to 
Chion-in is the 



320 



Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



Awata Palace (Atuata no Goten), 
also called Sei-ren-in. 

It was first built as a place of retirement 
for the Eraperor Seiwa in A.D. 879, after 
his abdication of the throne. He died 
here in the following year. The present 
buildings are of more modern date. The 
garden was planned by Soami. Of this 
fine palace only the store-house, the bell- 
tower and two or three minor buildings 
escaped the fire of 1893. So rich was it 
in works of art, and especially in screens, 
that the value of the ashes was estimated 
at $5,000 for the sake of the gold to be 
collected from them. 

On the way to Nanzenji one 
passes what looks like a railway, 
but is really only a portage between 
the two sections of the Lake Biwa 
Canal, where the boats which navi- 
gate on either side are placed on 
trucks and rolled along for a few 
hundred yards. Through the grounds 
of Nanzenji, too, passes the 
aqueduct that conveys water from 
Ofcsu to Kyoto, a redbrick structure 
whose arches rather add to than 
deteriorate from the picturesque- 
ness of the place. 

Nanzenji. 

This temple of the Rinzai division of 
the Zen sect originally belonged to Mii- 
dera at Otsu; but about 1280 the ex- 
Emperor Kameyama appropriated it for 
his own residence, and in 1 289 converted 
it into a monastery of the Zen sect. The 
present main temple was built by Ieyasu 
in 1606, The two-storied gateway facing 
W., W ft. by 32 ft., was built in 1628 by 
Todo Takatora, prince of Tsu in Ise, at 
the cost of a year's revenue. The famous 
robber Ishikawa Goemon is said to have 
made his residence in the gate-house 
which preceded the present building. 

The Hatto, as the main temple is 
called, produces a somewhat strik- 
ing effect, on account of its mixture 
of richness and simplicity, the 
dark blue tiled floor picked out with 
white and the plain brown wooden 
columns contrasting with the rich 
red and black altar and the gold of 
the images enthroned aloft thereon. 
Tbese images represent Shaka, Fu- 
gen, and Monju, flanked by the Ni-6 
lacquered with vermilion brought 
from Korea, as were also the two 
bronze bowl-shaped gongs in front. 



N. of the altar are the original 
founder of the Zen sect (the Chinese 
Hui-k'o), Daruma, Rinzai Zenji 
(originator of the subdivision of the 
Zen sect called after his name) and 
Nannin Kokushi, the " second 
founder," or restorer of the mon- 
astery in modern times. In the un- 
usually large two-storied gateway 
are Shaka and the Sixteen Bakan t 
the colours in good preservation. 
The cornice and wall-plate are gor- 
geously decorated with coloured 
diapers and arabesques. On the 
cross-beams are painted the unicorn 
(kirin) and flying dragon ; on the 
ceiling, the phcenix and angels in 
subdued colours on a pale yellow 
ground. The whole interior presents 
a magnificent example of this style 
of decoration. Nanzenji possesses 
fine paintings by Kano Eitoku and 
other noted artists. Two small 
black lacquered shrines contain effi- 
gies of Takatora and Ieyasu. 

Elk wa lido, a temple of the Jodo 
sect on the flank of Higashi-yama, 
is specially worth visiting in the 
lotus or the maple season ; and 
those interested in Buddhist legends 
will like to see the famous image 
called Mi-kaeri no Amida, or " Ami- 
da Looking over his Shoulder." 

Originally founded about the middle of 
the 9th century, this temple was • estored 
by the priest Eikwan (b. 1032, d. 1111), 
whence its present name. 

The main temple, in which the 
image stands, was repaired about 
fourteen years ago in handsome style. 
The image is 2Jft. high, the drapery ■ 
well-rendered, the head half turned 
round to the 1. as if looking back- 
wards. It is kept enclosed in a 
shrine on the main altar, and those 
desirous of seeing it must apply to 
the priest in charge. The image 
will then be unveiled with some 
little pomp and circumstance, lights 
lighted, and a bell rung, while the 
priest mounts up on the altar beside 
the image and recites the legend. A 
curtain is then drawn up, and the 
image stands revealed in a dim reli- 
gious light. 



Eikwando. Kurodani. 



321 



The legend is that Eikwan, who used to 
spend his time in walking round the im- 
age repeating the formula Namu Amida, 
one day heard his name called twice or 
thrice, and looking round perceived the 
image with its face turned in his direction, 
and so it has remained fixed until this 
day. Eikwan's own statue is one of those 
placed to the r. of the altar and a little 
behind it, so that Amida now perma- 
nently looks in his direction. A sequel 
to the legend says that a certain Daimyo, 
Lord of Akashi, having doubted the 
image's power, struck it on the r. side in 
order to see what would happen, when 
blood flowed from the wound down on to 
its breast. 

Kurodani is a monastery of the 
Jodo sect, beautifully situated on 
the side of a hill. 

It stands on the spot where the founder, 
Hon en Shonin, built his humble cabin on 
abandoning the Tendai school of Hiei-zan, 
and is named after the " black ravine " on 
that mountain, where he had previously 
resided. The monastery of Kurodani was 
begun at the end of the 13th century, and 
gradual additions were made until it was 
completed in the beginning of the 15th. 
After being destroyed by fire and rebuilt 
two or three successive times, the whole 
establishment was re-erected in the latter 
part of the 18th century. The chief his- 
torical interest of Kurodani is its connec- 
tion with the true and touching story of 
Kumagai Naozane (see p. 60), who here ex- 
changed the sword of the soldier for the 
monk's rosary and life-long penance. 

In front of the main temple 
are two beautifully _trained pine- 
trees, — one called Ogi no Matsu 
because fan-shaped, the other to 
the r., Yoroi-kake-matsu because 
Naozane is said to have hung, up 
his armour on it. The altar of the 
main temple is a truly grand mass 
of gold, with a gold baldachin in 
the centre, while all around hang 
beautiful silk banners (maru-bata) 
and the metal ornaments known as 
keman, which represent the head- 
dresses of fairies. A richly gilt 
shrine contains the effigy of Honen 
ShoLiiu, carved by himself in 1207, 
and first brought to this monastery 
in 1609 ; it is a seated wooden 
figure with the paiDt rubbed off by 
frequent cleaning. Two long lac- 
quered boards, with texts contain- 
ing the fundamental truths of the 
sect, hang on the pillars r. and 1. 
of the altar. Behind the altar in 



the gallery is a large bold picture of 
Seishi Bosatsu, called happd shomen, 
because the eyes seem to look 
straight at the beholder wherever 
he stands. It is by Tansaku. Some 
very large and splendid kakemonos 
are displayed in this temple from 
time to time. One is a painted 
mandara, that is to say, a repre- 
sentation of the Buddhist paradise 
with its complicated arrangement 
of " many mansions." It is a modern 
copy of a very celebrated piece of 
embroidery in lotus threads by 
Taema Chujo-Hime. The other, 
dating from 1669, is embroidered, 
and is a splendid specimen of 
that art. It represents Buddha's 
Entry into Nirvana (Nehanzb). 

In the Apartments, which are fine 
and spacious, a number of works of 
art are preserved. There are some 
fine black and gold sliding screens 
by Kubota Beisen representing a 
terrific dragon, a folding screen by 
Tosa-no-Mitsuoki with scenes from 
the Genji Monogatari, a curious 
kakemono of the mourning for 
Honen Shonin by his disciples, a 
grotesque black statuette of Jurojin 
by Hidari Jingoro, a remarkable 
kakemono of fifty Buddhas whose 
bodies and halos turn out on in- 
spection to be nothing but the 
Chinese characters Namtc Amida 
Butsa constantly repeated, a gilt 
statue of Amida by Eshin, and 
round the walls of the same room 
the whole biography of Honen 
Shonin in a set of minutely and 
brilliantly painted kakemonos by 
an unknown artist. In another 
room is enshrined, in a richly 
wrought gilt case, a noteworthy 
kakemono of Jizo submitting to be 
burnt in order to save others (Y at a no 
Jizo). There are also some old kake- 
monos by Chinese artists, a black 
image of Shinran Shonin by himself 
at the age of thirty-five, and in a 
separate room a kakemono of Nao- 
zane, together with his rosary, his 
enormous rice-pestle, and his tre- 
mendously long and heavy sword. 
No wonder that the hero is alleged 



322 



Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



to have been 7 ft. 8 in. in stature. 
Next come more images — Amida by 
Jikaku Daishi with Fudo and 
Ben ten, and beyond these a kake- 
mono of the Five-and-twenty Bosatsu 
Amida in the middle with rays of 
light streaming from his eye. Be- 
hind the Apartments lies a pretty 
garden, the pond meandering 
through which is called Yoroi-sute 
no Ike, because Naozane threw his 
armour into it. 

On quitting the temple, the visi- 
tor should glance in 1. at the fine 
large gilt image of Amida by Genshi 
Sozu, in the lesser shrine dedicated 
to that deity. Behind this, at a 
little distance, is the graveyard 
where Naozane and Atsumori lie 
buried. The Kumagai-do, dedicated 
to the memory of the former, is not 
worth visiting, neither are the 
graves. One may, however, on the 
way to the next sight — the temple of 
Shinnyo-do — walk through the ceme- 
tery, which is extensive and prettily 
situated on the side of a hill crown- 
ed by a pagoda, and contains several 
good large bronze Buddhas. Most 
of the graves are those of Kyoto 
tradesfolk. 

Slliunyo-do. a large temple of 
the Tendai sect, has on its high 
altar an image of Amida attributed 
to Jikaku Daishi. The inscription 
in the tablet over the entrance is 
by Kobo Daishi. 

The characters on this tablet are, or 
should be, j|£ #P ^, Shin-nyo-do. But the 
middle one is not perfectly formed, whence 
the proverb Kobo mo fude no ayamari, 
"Even Kobo Daishi sometimes wrote 
wrong," as we say that "Homer nods." 
Kobo Daishi, be it remarked, was as 
famous for his calligraphy as for his piety 
and intellectual and physical vigour. 

Yoslmla- no Ynshiro is an ancient 
Shinto temple prettily situated on 
a hill-side. It is octagonal, a form 
seldom seen in Shinto temples, and 
is painted white and vermilion. 

Ginkaktiji* properly Jishdji, is in 
the vill. of Jodoji-mura, out of the 
N.E. end of Kyoto at the base of a 
range of hills forming a spur of 
Hiei-zan. 



In 1479 Ashikaga Yoshimasa, after his 
abdication of the Shogun's dignity, built 
himself a country house here, the wall of 
which extended as far as the hill on which 
sf-ands Shinnyo-do. He is said to have 
had that temple removed because it stood 
in his way, but afterwards repenting of 
the act, to have restored it to its original 
site at his owu expense. The two-storied 
building, called Ginkaku (Silver Pavilion), 
was a summer house in the garden of his 
principal reception hall, built in imitation 
of the Kinkaka, or Golden Pavilion, of one 
of his predecessors (see p. 302). The 
garden was designed by Soami. It was 
at Ginkakuji that Yoshimasa, with So- 
ami and Shuko, his favourites, practised 
the tea ceremonies, which their patronage 
elevated almost to the rank of a fine art. 

The visitor is first shown over the 
Apartments, the artist of which par 
excellence is Buson. His sliding 
screens are all either black and 
white, or else in the very pale- 
coloured style called usu-zaishiki. 
After the rooms adorned by his 
brush comes one with an image of 
Yoshimasa in priestly robes, rather 
black with age but startlingly life- 
like, and next a tiny tea-room, the 
first in Japan built in accordance 
with the canon prescribing 4^ mats 
as the proper size for such rooms. 
It has some very sketchy sliding 
screens by Soami and Okyo, and a 
sketch of plum-blossoms by Hogen 
Motonobu — so slight that none but 
enthusiastic devotees of the tea 
ceremonies are likely to appreciate 
it. One is then led into the Garden 
which produces a charming effect, 
derived in part from the high, 
thickly pine-clad hill behind, lend- 
ing it a really natural aspect. The 
curiously shaped heap of white sand 
seen on entering the garden is called 
Gin Shadan, or the Silver Sand Plat- 
form. Here Yoshimasa used to sit 
and hold esthetic revels. The 
smaller one behind is called the 
Ko-getsu-dai, or Mound Facing the 
Moon, where he used to moon-gaze. 
There is a lake of course, as in all 
these gardens, and as usual each 
stone, each bridge, each tree of any 
size has its name. The rill is called 
Scn-gctsu-$en y or the Moon-Washing 
Fountain; a stone in the pond is 
the Stone of Ecstatic Coutempla- 



GinkaknjL Shinw-Gamo and Kami-Gamo Temples. 323 



tion :; a little bridge is the Bridge of 
•the Pillar of the Immortals, etc., 
etc. The Pavilion (Ginkaku) is so 
dilapidated as to be no longer worth 
looking at. Enquiry shows that it 
never was really coated with silver, 
as its name would imply, Yoshimasa 
having died before he had got so 
far. A visit to this place generally 
ends by the priest who acts as guide 
•offering the visitor tea in the Cha- 
no-yu style.' 

Sliimo-Gamo. 

This ancient Shinto temple, dedicated 
to Tamayori-hime under the name of 
Mioya-no-Kami, was founded in A.D. 677. 
It was one of the twenty -two chief temples 
-of the Empire, and is still one of those 
which are maintained at the expense of 
the State. 

This temple stands in a splendid 
:grove of patriarchal maples, crypto- 
merias, and evergreen oaks. Parti- 
cularly curious are two tall sakaki 
(Cleyera japonica) outside the main 
gate, which are joined together by a 
branch that has grown from one 
trunk into the other. These trees, 
which are much visited by women 
who desire to live in harmony with 
•their husbands, are called renri no 
ki, and have a small torii in front, 
showing that they are considered 
sacred. The temple is surrounded 
by a painted colonnade, with a red 
two-storied gate-house in the centre, 
opposite to which is the Haiclen or 
oratory, a shed 24 ft. by 18 ft. To 
the r. are two other sheds called 
hosodono, where sit the musicians 
who play for the performers of the 
sacred Aclzuma-mai dance, and the 
kashiclono built over a walled canal, 
used by the reader of the norito or 
ritual. The canal is called Mita- 
rashi-gawa, or River of Lustra- 
tion. The remaining buildings are 
of the_ same character as in other 
Shinto shrines. Outside the watch- 
house facing the main gate, is sus- 
pended a long picture of Komei Ten- 
no's progress hither in 1863,— a great 
event at the time, as it was a prac- 
tical demonstration of the possibility 
of the Mikado coming forth from 



his seclusion to take part in matters 
political, and thus inaugurated the 
system under which his son, the 
present Mikado, governs as well as 
reigns. One of the smaller shrines 
is the object of a peculiar supersti- 
tion. It is believed that evergreens 
of any species resembling the hiira- 
gi (a kind of holly) in general ap- 
pearance, but having no spines on 
the leaves, will be converted into 
that species if planted before this 
chapel ; and shrubs supposed to be 
in process of transformation are 
pointed out by the hostess of the 
adjacent tea-stall. The chapel is 
appropriately styled Hiiragi no 
Miya. The principal annual festi- 
val is celebrated on the 15fch April, 
when the double cherry-blossoms 
which adorn the adjacent race- 
course are all out. The races, how- 
ever, do not take place till the 5th 
May. 

A pretty road leads from Shimo- 
Gamo to Kami-Gamo through an 
avenue of pine-trees 50 cho long, 
formerly the scene of many an Im- 
perial progress, with the Kamo- 
gawa to the r., up whose course 
the avenue goes, while Hiei-zan 
rises behind it and Kurama-yama 
ahead. 

Kami-Gamo. 

This temple is usually said to have been 
founded in A.D. 677 by the Emperor Tem- 
mu, in honour of Wake-ikazuchi-no-Kami ; 
but there seems to be some uncertainty at- 
taching to its early history. According 
to the legend, as Tama-yori-hime, 
daughter of the god Kamo-no-Take- 
tsumi, was walking by the side of the 
stream, there came floating towards her a 
red arrow winged with a duck's feather, 
which she picked up and carried home. 
Shortly afterwards she was discovered 
to be pregnant, and she eventually gave 
birth to a son. The father was unknown ; 
and as her parents disbelieved her 
declaration' that she had never known a 
man, they determined, as soon as the 
child could understand what was said to 
it, to solve the mystery by resorting to 
a kind of ordeal. Inviting all the villagers 
to a feast, they gave the child a wine- 
cup, telling him to offer it to his father; 
but instead of taking it to any of the 
company, he ran out of the house and 
placed it in front of the arrow which. 
Tama-yori-Hime had thrust into the roof. 



324 



Eoute 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 






Then transforming himself into a thunder- 
bolt, he ascended to heaven, followed by 
his mother. This myth evidently 
originated in an attempt to account for 
the name of the River Kama, which means 
"wild-duck." 

The temple buildings are quite 
plaiu and beginning to look old. 
The brick-red colour of the outer 
and inner palings is striking, though 
scarcely pretty. In the season of 
the cherry-blossoms, the place is 
gay with visitors and tea-booths. 
At other seasons it can scarcely be 
recommended except to those who, 
making a prolonged stay at Kyoto, 
desire to become acquainted with 
all its environs, and may then take 
Kami-Gauio on the way to 

Kurama-yama, a favourite expe- 
dition 2 ri further off among the hills. 

The name Kurama is said to be derived 
from an incident in the life of the Em- 
peror Temmu, who, in A.D, 683, in order to 
escape from Prince Otomo, fled hither on 
a " saddled horse," which he left tied up 
at this spot. 

The walk back from Kurama- 
yama to Kyoto may be varied by 
striking over the hills to Shizuhara 
and Oiiara, whence to Yase 1^ ri. 
From Yase to the Sanjo Bridge is 
2J ri. 

Sliiigakii-in is an Imperial gar- 
den at the base of Hiei-zan, plan- 
ned by the Mikado Go-Mizuno-o in 
the 17th century. The pagoda of 
Toji forms the most conspicuous 
object in the view over the city, ris- 
ing up as it does in the gap between 
Otoko-yama and Tenno-zan. The 
fine cherry-trees and maples were 
planted by Kokaku Tenno, grand- 
father of the present Mikado. 

Environs of Kyoto. 
As may easily be seen by reference 
to the map, several of the temples 
and other places already mentioned 
are, strictly speaking, in the envi- 
rons of Kyoto rather than within 
the limits of the city itself, owing 
to the already mentioned shrinkage 
of the latter in modern times. The 
followiag are, however, still further 
afield, demanding each the greater 
part of a day to be done comfortably. 



1. Over Hiei-zan to Otsu and! 
back. This delightful excursion 
may be varied as to its details. 
One may either ride the whole way 
on horseback, or go by jinrikisha to 
Yase, 

This village and Ohara close by are noted 
for the firm step and erect bearing of their 
women, who, contrary to usual Japanese 
custom, carry all loads on their heads. 
From time immemorial, nurses for infants 
of the Imperial House have been drawn 
from among these stalwart women. 

whence by Jcago, or on foot over 
Hiei-zan to Sakamoto, _thence by 
boat on Lake Biwa to Otsu, where 
visit the temple of Miidera, and 
back to Kyoto either by jinrikisha 
or railway. Or else one may return 
from Miidera to Kyoto by boat on the 
canal, — less than 1 hr*to Keage (see 
p. 329) , the charge in an omnibus boat 
{nori-ai-bune) being only a few cents. 
In either case the day's programme 
may be so arranged, on starting 
from Kyoto, as to include a visit 
to Ginkakuji and Shugaku-in (the 
latter only for those having ad- 
mission to the Kyoto palaces). 
The celebrated view from the 
summit of Hiei-zan includes a fine 
panorama of the valley of Kyoto 
and of Lake Biwa and its shores. 
Only towards the N. is the prospect 
cut off by Hirayama. Arrangements 
should be made for lunching at the 
summit, in order to enjoy the view 
at leisure. This grassy spot, known 
by the name of Shimei-gco-tahe, 
rises to a height of some 2,700 
ft. above sea level. The stone figure 
in a stone box on the top represents 
Dengyo Daishi (see p. 54), so placed 
that he may gaze forever at the Im- 
perial Palace in Kyoto. Should the 
weather he too cold for lunching on 
the hill-top, there is a tea-house a 
few cho down where one may take 
shelter. 

The original name of Hiei-zan was Hie- 
no-yama, perhaps meaning the Chilly 
Mountain ; and the Shinto temple of Hie 
at Sakamoto at the E. foot of the moun- 
tain, popularly known as Sanno Sama, is 
called after it.' Hiei-zan doubcless gained 
religious importance from the fact of it» 
position due N.E. of the Imperial Palace at 



Hiei-zan. Iwashimizu. Atago-yama. 



325 



Kyoto (comp. p. 104, foot of r. col.). During 
the middle ages Hiei-zan was covered with 
Buddhist temples and seminaries, the 
total aggregate of such buildings being 
stated at the extraordinary number of 
3,000; and the monks, who were often 
ignorant, truculent, and of disorderly 
habits, became the terror of Kyoto, on 
which peaceful city they would sweep 
down after the manner of banditti. At 
last, in the 16th century, the great warrior 
Nobunaga, in order to revenge himself 
upon the monks for having sided with his 
enemy Asakura, Lord of Echizen, attack- 
ed the temples and committed them to 
the flames. The monks were dispersed 
far and wide until the accession to power 
of the Tokugawa Shoguns, who re-esta- 
blished the institution on a smaller scale, 
the number of the seminaries being 
thenceforward limited to a hundred and 
twenty-five. 

On the way down from Hiei-zan 
towards Lake Biwa, several of the 
Buddhist buildings that have sur- 
vived to the present day in a 
semi-deserted state, are passed, till 
at the base, just before the vill. of 
Sakamoto {Inn, Take-ya), we reach 
the large Shinto temple of Sanno or 
Hiyoshi, together with a number of 
subsidiary shrines, some so small 
as almost to look like toys. The 
stillness of the now half-deserted 
temples, the shade of the grand old 
trees, and the plashing of rills of 
water through the spacious grounds, 
produce a charming impression. 
No spot could be better fitfce_d for a 
picnic. On the way into Otsu a 
halt may be made at the giant pine- 
tree of Karasaki (see p. 330). 

2. Iwashimizn Hacliiman-gii, 

also called Otoko-yama, is situated 
to the S.W. of Kyoto on the 1. bank 
of the Yodogawa, close to the vill. 
of Yawata, opposite Yamazaki sta- 
tion on the Tokaido Railway. 

The temple, which is dedicated to 
the God of War (see p. 42), stands 
on a hill some 300 ft. above the 
river, and is built in the Ryobu 
Shinto style, on a stone -faced 
platform 10 ft. high. In former 
times pilgrims were allowed to 
walk round the outer edge of the 
'Corridor surrounding the building, 
so that they were able to see the 
golden gutter between the eaves 



of the oratory and chapel. This is 
said to be still in its place, in spite 
of the great temptation to convert 
it into current coin. From the 
E. gate a few nights of steps de- 
scend to the . well called Iwashi- 
mizu, that is, " Pure rock water," 
after which the temple is named. 

Crossing the river, the visitor 
should ascend Tenno-zan to the 
pagoda of Takara-dera, 200 ft. above 
the bank. 

Here are buried some of the Choshu 
men who performed haraMri on the top of 
the hill above, after the repulse of the at- 
tack made on the Mikado's palace by the 
warriors of that clan in 1864. Three 
hundred feet higher is a gigantic stone 
torii; and a little further, on the slope 
where they killed themselves rather than 
surrender to be treated as common crimi- 
nals, stands the monument raised to their 
memory by the prince of Choshu. This 
hill and the narrow pass between it and 
the river, occupied by the vill. of Yama- 
zaki, are famous in Japanese history as 
the battle-field where Hideyoshi routed the 
forces of the traitor Akeclri Mitsuhide in 
1582, and thus avenged the assassination 
of his patron Nobunaga. 

Other places which native holi- 
day-makers would combine in the 
same day's expedition are Ao no 
Komydji, Nagaoka no Tenjin, and 
Hashimoto. 

3. Atago-yama (see p. 98 for de- 
tails connected with this name) is a 
conspicuous peak to the N.W. of 
Kyoto, about 2,900 ft. above the sea. 
The ascent of it may advantageous- 
ly be combined with a visit to 
Omuro Gosho(see p. 304), TJzumasa, 
and Seiryuji, which all lie in the 
same direction. Takao also is not 
far out of the way. A short dis- 
tance beyond Seiryuji is a red 
torii at the bottom of a hill call- 
ed Kokoromi-zaka, which might be 
rendered " Test Hill," as it puts the 
pilgrim's endurance to a first trial 
before he reaches the more arduous 
ascent to the summit of the moun- 
tain. Descending to the vill. of 
Kiyotaki, 17 cho, we cross the stream 
which lower down unites with the 
Oigawa to form the Katsura-gawa, 
and then begin to climb a very steep 



326 



Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



path to the Minakuchi-ya. On the 
way up, are two resting-places which 
command a good view of the plain. 
The last half of the ascent is much 
less steep, and the distance from 
the last tea-house to the summit is 
but 5 did. On_the 1. one catches a 
glimpse of the Oigawa and the town 
of Karueoka in the plain of Tamba. 
There is a fine bronze torii with a 
boar in relief at the top of the 
ascent. Several flights of stone 
steps lead up to the front chapel, 
which is dedicated to the creatress 
Izauami and her child the God of 
Fire, whose birth caused her death. 
The most common ex-voto is a pic- 
ture of a wild boar. At the back 
stands a second chapel dedicated to 
Toyouke-bime, the Goddess of Food, 
and two other deities. Charms are 
sold by the priests as a protection 
against fire. 

4. Kiirama-yania. See p. 324. 

5. Rapids of the Katsina-gawa 
and Araslii-yama. This expedi- 
tion makes a pleasing variety in 
the midst of days spent chiefly 
in visiting temples. The distance 
from the Kyoto Hotel to the 
village of Hozu, where boats are 
engaged for the descent of the 
rapids, is under 6 ri ; but the road, 
though practicable for jinrikishas 
the whole way, is hilly and rough 
in places, so that two coolies should 
be taken. A good plan is to engage 
jinrikishas for the whole round, as 
none can be counted on at the 
landing-place at Arashi-yama, the 
point to which the descent of the 
river is made. There is no extra 
charge for taking them in the boat. 
The charge (1894) for a large boat 
to descend the rapids is $3J ; but it 
is advisable to reach Hozu before 
noon, as the boatmen make a double 
charge after that hour, on the 
ground of their not being able to 
re-ascend the river the same day. 
Visitors from Kobe or Osaka should 
alight from the train at Muho- 
wiachi, the station before reaching 



Kyoto, and join the road at Katagi- 
wara, thereby saving in distance 2 
ri 9 did and the additional journey 
by rail. Jinrikishas can be engaged 
at Mukomachi ; the distance to the 
junction of the roads at Katagiwara 
is 18 did. 

The rapids commence almost im- 
mediately below Hozu. The bed of 
the river is very rocky, but the stream 
at its ordinary height not particular- 
ly swift. The scenery is charming. 
The river at once enters the hills 
which soon rise precipitously on 
either hand, and continues its- 
course between them for about IB 
m. to Arashi-yama. Of the numer- 
ous small rapids and races, the 
following are a few of the most 
exciting : — Koya no taki, or Hut 
Eapid, a long race terminating in a 
pretty rapid, the narrow passage 
being between artificially con- 
structed embankments of rock ; 
Takase, or High Rapid ; Shishi no 
Kuchi, or The Lion's Mouth ; and 
Tonase-daki, the last on the des- 
cent, where the river rushes between 
numerous rocks and islets. One 
ri before reaching Arashi-yama, 
the Kiyotaki-gawa falls in on the 
1. The descent takes on an average 
about 2 hrs., but varies slightly ac- 
cording to the amount of water in 
the river. There are several good 
tea-houses at the landing-place at 
Arashi-yama, whence to the chief 
hotels in Kyoto takes less than 1 
hr. in jinrikisha with two men. 
After heavy rains the boatmen 
generally decline to go, as the river 
then becomes dangerous. 

6. Uji (Inns, Yorozu-ya on the 
Kyoto side of the river, and Kiku- 
ya on the other side) lies a little 
under 4 ri S. of Kyoto. There is a 
good jinrikisha road the whole way. 
This neat little town, picturesque!}' 
situated on the Yodogawa, here 
called Ujigawa, which drains Lake 
Biwa, is surrounded by tea planta- 
tions that have been famous for 
many centuries as producing the 
finest tea in Japan. 



Uji and the Phcenix Hall. 



327 



Tea is believed to have been introduced 
fromChiuain A.D. 805 by the Buddhist 
abbot, Dengyo Daishi. The Uji planta- 
tions date i'roni the close of the 12th 
century. 

The tea begins to come to market 
about the 10th May ; but the pre- 
paration of the leaf can be seen 
going on busily in the peasants' 
houses for some time later. The 
finest kinds, such as Gyohu-ro 
("Jewelled Dew"), are sold at very 
high prices — as much as from $5 to 
$7j- per lb. Those, however, who 
expect to see large firing or selling 
establishments will be disappointed. 
Each family works independently 
in quite a small way, morejaponico, 
and gives to the tea produced by it 
whatever fancy name it chooses. 
The citizens of Kyoto visit Uji in the 
summer to see the fire-flies, and to 
enjoy the pretty view up the river 
which recals that from Arashi- 
yama. 

Uji's chief sight is the ancient 
Buddhist temple of Byodo-in, be- 
longing to the Tendai sect and con- 
nected in history with the name 
of the famous warrior, Gen-sammi 
Yorimasa. 

The monastery dates from 1052. Here 
Gen-sammi Yorimasa committed suicide 
in A.D. 1180 after the battle of Uji Bridge, 
where, with 300 warriors, he resisted 
20,000 men of the Taira clan, in order to 
afford time for Prince Mochihito to effect 
his escape. After prodigies of valour 
had been performed by this little band, 
most of whom fell in the defence of the 
bridge, Yorimasa retired to Byodo-in, 
and while his remaining followers kept 
the enemy at bay, calmly ran himself 
through with his sword in the manner of 
an ancient Japanese hero. He was then 
seventy- five years of age. Yorimasa is 
famous in romance for having, with the 
aid of his trusty squire I-no-Hayata, slain 
the monster called Saru-tora-hebi which 
tormented the Emperor Nijo-no-in. 

The large stone monument of 
irregular shape, seen to the 1. on 
entering the grounds of Byodo-in, 
was erected in 1887 to hand down 
to posterity the praises of Uji tea. 
The building beyond the lotus pond 
is the Ho-o-do, or Phcenix Hall, 

A replica of the Phoenix Hall was set up 
at Chicago by the Japanese Government 



Commission in 1803, and left as a perma- 
nent memento of Japan's participation in 
the World's Fair. 

one of the most ancient wooden 
structures in Japan, perhaps the 
most original in shape, and for- 
merly one of the most beautiful, 
though now unfortunately a good 
deal decayed. It derives its name 
from the circumstance that it 
is intended to represent a phoenix, 
the two-storied central part be- 
ing the body, and the colonnades 
r. and 1. the wings, while the cor- 
ridor behind forms the tail. The 
ceiling is divided into small coffers 
inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Round 
the top of the walls runs a sort of 
frieze representing the Twenty-five 
Bosatsu and various female person- 
ages. The doors and the walls r. 
and 1. and behind the altar are 
covered with ancient Buddhist 
paintings by Tamenari, now almost 
obliterated, of the Nine Regions 
of Sukhavdti (Jap. Kitbon Jodo), 
the Pure Land in the West, 
where the saints dwell according 
to their degrees of merit. The 
altar or stage was originally cover- 
ed with nasliiji gold lacquer in- 
laid with mother-of-peav! ; and as 
every inch of the walls and columns 
was elaborately decorated with 
paintings, the effect of the whole 
when new must have been truly 
dazzling. By criminal neglect this 
gem of art was left open for many 
years to every wind of heaven ; and 
what between the ravages of the 
weather and the ravages of thieves, 
the place has been reduced to its 
present sad decay. On the roof are 
two phoenixes in bronze, 3 ft. high, 
which serve as weathercocks. 

The Hondo, or present main tem- 
ple, which is much newer, has no- 
thing that calls for special mention. 
The Apartments, though poor, con- 
tain various objects of interest, — 
kakemonos, illustrated scrolls, and 
relics of Yorimasa, among other 
things his flag which is inscribed 
with Sanskrit characters, his bow, 
saddle, and armour, a small coloured 



328 



Boute 40, — Lake Biwa. 



image of him in priestly garb 
which looks like a portrait, and a 
very old kakemono representing his 
life and adventures. There is also 
a flag, interesting as a very early 
example of the Japanese national 
device of the red sun on a white 
ground (Hi no maru). On the sun 
are inscribed the characters Namu 
Amida Butsu, and a date corres- 
ponding to the 30th November, 
1185. The collection includes 
furthermore a number of small Bud- 
dhist images. 

The walk up the stream to the 
temple of Xdshdji by the Uji bridge, 
is very pretty. The most agreeable 
way of returning to Kyoto is to take 
boat, and drop down to the Kyoba- 
shi at Fushimi in about an hour, 
whence home by jinrikisha. Ob- 
serve that an expedition to Uji may 
be combined with a visit to the Dai- 
bittsu, San-ju-san-g en-do, Tofuhuji, 
and the temple of Inari (see pp. 
308-11). Instead of following the 
main road from Kyoto to Uji, some 
recommend a detour via the temples 
of Fuji-no-mori and Obaku-san. 
Both these ancient and once 
celebrated edifices have, however, 
fallen into such lamentable decay 
as really not to be worth going 
out of one's way to see. 

Fitji-no-Mori is dedicated to Toneri Shin- 
no, the chief compiler of the Mhongi, or 
"Chronicles of Japan," completed A.D. 720. 
OhaJcu-san, founded in 1659 by a Chinese 
priest named Ingen, possesses a complete 
set of wooden blocks for printing the 
Chinese version of the Buddhist scrip- 
tures. 

Those who prefer jinrikisha riding 
to the train, might go from Kyoto to 
Nara via Uji — not much more than 
\ day's run — passing through the 
vill. of Nagaikeand along the banks 
of the Kizugawa. 



ROUTE 40. 

Lake Biwa. 

1. general information \ lake 
biwa canal. 2. kyoto to otsu. 
miidera. seta bridge. ishi- 
yama-dera. hikone. nagahama. 
chikubu-shima. 
1.— General Information. 

Glimpses of this beautiful lake, 
whose southern and eastern shores 
are classic ground, can be obtained 
from the carriage windows by those 
travelling on the Tokaido Railway 
between the stations of Maibara 
and Baba ; but they are glimpses 
only. To explore the best portions 
of the Lake Biwa district thorough- 
ly, the proper plan is, taking Kyoto 
as the starting-point, to go to Otsu 
either by rail or jinrikisha, or else 
to go over Hiei-zan, as explained on 
p. 324, to do the southern end of 
the lake from Otsu as a centre, and 
then to take one of the little lake 
steamers from Otsu to Hikone and 
Nagahama, returning to Otsu by 
rail, and thence either westwards to 
Kyoto or eastwards in the direction 
of Yokohama. 

The Lake of Omi, generally called Lake 
Biwa (Biwa-Jco in Japanese), on account of 
a fancied resemblance between its shape 
and that of the Chinese guitar, measures 
some 36 miles in length by 12 m. in 
width. Its area is approximately equal 
to that of the Lake of Geneva. Dr. 
Rein gives its height at about 100 
metres "(333 ft.) above the level of the 
sea; and its greatest depth is said to 
be the same, but in most places is much 
less. From Katata towards Seta it be- 
comes very narrow, while the northern 
part is oval in shape. On the W. side the 
mountain ranges of Hiei-zan and Hira- 
yama descend nearly to the shore, while 
on the E. a wide plain extends between 
Musa and Toriimoto towards the boundary 
of Mino. There are a few small islands in 
the lake, of which Chikubu-shima near 
the N. end is the most celebrated. Ac- 
cording to a legend long firmly believed in 
by the Japanese, Lake Biwa was produced 
by an earthquake in the year 4 286 B.C., 
while Mount Fuji rose out of the plains of 
Suruga at the same moment. Constant 
reference is made in J apanese_poetry and 
art to the " Eight Beauties of Omi " ( Omi 



General Information. Kyoto to Otsa. 



HaJc-Jcei), the idea of which was derived, 
like most other Japanese things, from 
China, where there are or were eight 
beauties at a placejealled Siao-Siang. The 
Eight Beauties of Omi are : the Autumn 
Moon seen from Ishiyania, the Evening 
Snow on Hirayarna, the Blaze of Evening 
at Seta, the Evening Bell of Miidera, the 
Boats sailing back from Yabase, a Bright 
Sky with a Breeze at Awazu, Tfcain by 
Night afc Karasaki, and the Wild Geese 
alighting at Kata/ta. As usual, conven- 
tion enters largely into this Japanese 
choice of specially lovely scenes ; but all 
foreigners will admit the great general 
beauty of the southern portion of the lake. 
A new feature — useful though not beauti- 
ful— added to the neighbourhood of Otsu 
by the modern thirst for progress and to 
meet the needs of the inhabitants of Kyo- 
to, is the Lake Biwa Canal , which, with the 
Kavaogawa Canal (now in course of con- 
struction), the Kamogawa itself, and the 
Yodogawa, will bring Lake Biwa into navi- 
gable communication with Osaka Bay. 
It was begun in 1885, and opened to 
traffic in the spring of 1890. Carrying 
goods an(3_ passengers between the pro- 
vince of Omi and Kyoto, it has brought 
the rich harvests of the former within the 
reach of the city markets ; and by irrigat- 
ing the Yamashina, valley and the upper 
part of the valley of Kyoto, it has already 
led to great extension of the area 
under rice cultivation. It also supplies 
water-power to mills and manufactories 
in Kyoto. The main canal is Of m. in 
length, and in parts of its course runs 
through long tunnels. The total fall is 
143 ft. , and at Keage, near its entrance 
into Kyoto, the greater part of this fall is 
utilised for traffic by an incline i m. 
long, along which the boats, placed 
in wheeled cradles, are drawn by an elec- 
tric motor stationed at the foot of the 
incline. At Keage, at the top of the in- 
cline, the water of the canal divides, one 
part flowing in a branch canal, 5| m. long, 
which runs north of Kyoto and is avail- 
able only for irrigation and water-power. 
The other part of the water enters thiee 
36 in. pipes and is conveyed by these to 
the foot of the incline, where, before again 
forming a navigable canal, it serves to 
give the power needed to work the electric 
motor which, by means of a wire cable, 
runs the boats up and down the incline. 
This motor also works spinning mills, rice 
mills, etc., besides a system of incandes- 
cent and arc electric lights. From the 
foot of the incline there is another stretch 
of open canal, with a regulating lock be- 
tween it and the old canal leading to 
Fushimi, a suburb of Kyoto. But this old 
canal being able to pass only boats of 
small draught, is of little use ; and a new 
canal, to Fushimi, begun in 1892, 
is approaching completion. This, the 
Kamogawa Canal already mentioned, 
will have eight locks and one canal- 
incline, and will carry heavy cargo 



and passenger boats. The cost of 
the Lake Biwa Canal has been officially 
stated at 1\ million yen, and was met oner 
third by an Imperial grant, one-third from 
the national revenue, and one-third by 
the citizens of Kyoto. The project of 
bringing the waters of the lake to Kyoto 
was conceived and carried out by Mr. K. 
Kitagaki wnen he was Governor of Kyoto ; 
and a curious personal item in connection 
with the matter is the fact that the design 
of such a water-way, which should also 
be suited for the transport of men and 
merchandise, was made the subject of 
the graduation essay for the diploma of 
the College of Engineering in Tokyo 
by a student who then became the 
engineer entrusted by Governor Kitagald 
with the execution of the work. It 
thus came about that a very fine 
piece of engineering — great both in plan 
and in execution — was designed and car- 
ried through successfully by a mere youth, 
who rose at once to the position of "one of 
the leading engineers in his country. 
The same engineer has designed the new 
Kamogawa Canal; his name is Tanabe 
Sakuro. For some two years or so, when 
engaged on the work he lost the use of the 
fingers of his right hand; and all the writ- 
ings for his essay, and the beautifully 
executed drawings were done with the 
left hand which he trained to the task. 

The natural drainage of the lake is by 
a river flowing out of its S. end, which, 
bears in succession the names of Seta- 
gawa, Ujigawa, and Yodogawa. It is not 
navigable in its upper course. After pass- 
ing circuitously down near Fushimi, 
where it receives the waters of the canal, 
it falls into the sea at Osaka. 

_ Small steamers ply daily between 
Ofcsu and Hikone, Maibara, and 
Nagaliama on the E. coast of the 
lake, and along the W. coast be- 
tween Ofcsu, Kafcata, Katsuno, etc., 
ending up at Shiotsu at the N. 
extremity. 

2. — Kyoto to Otsu by Jinrikisha. 
Otsu and Neighbourhood. 

The run from Kyoto to Otsu by 
the Tokaido Kailway takes about 
| hr. The Ofcsu station, called 
Baba, stands some way out of the 
town. For this reason, and also 
on account of the excellence of 
the highway, which is part of the 
historic Tokaido and still retains 
some of the bustle and pictur- 
esqueness of former days, many 
prefer to do the distance by jin- 
rikisha. One may also thus ad- 



330 



Route 40. — Lake Biwa. 



vantageously combine a visit to 
the Kinkozan Potteries at Awata 
on the E. outskirt of Kyoto, which 
are extensive and most interesting, 
the visitor being shown the whole 
process, from the kneading of the 
clay to the painting in gold and 
colours and the firing of the com- 
pleted pieces. Leaving Awata, we 
pass 1. the Lake Biwa Canal, just 
at the spot (Keage) where the 
portage by rail takes place. After 
ascending a gentle rise called Hino- 
oka-toge, we next see r. the former 
Execution Ground (Shioki-ba), now 
turned into a rice-field, and then 1. 
the Tumulus of Tenji Tennd, a 
Mikado of the 7th century. It is a 
mound overgrown with pine-trees, 
like all the hillsides hereabout. 
The vill. of Yamashina, which 
stands on the boundary between 
the provinces of Yamashiro and 
Omi, and has furnished a title to 
one of Japan's Imperial princes, 
is soon reached, and after it the 
villages of Oiivake and Otani, 
where the high-road and the railway 
run side by side. The gentle ascent 
next climbed is called Osaka (pro- 
perly Au saka, "the Hill of 
Meeting," of course having nothing 
whatever to with the city of Osaka). 

On the top formerly stood a barrier, or 
octroi, constantly referred to in Japanese 
poetry, and thus described by Semi-maro, 
one of the bards of the Ilyaku-nin Is-sha, 
or " Century of Poets," in a stanza which 
every Japanese knows by heart : 

The stranger here from distant lands, 
The friend his home-bound friend may 

greet ; 
For on this hill the barrier stands, 
The gate where all must part and meet.* 

Just over the top of the hill 
stands a tiny shrine to Semi- 
maro. Lake Biwa then comes in 
view, and a minute later we are in 

Otsu (Hotel, Minarai-tei, semi- 
foreign), a flourishing town, capital 



K ore ya bono 

Ynku mo kaeru mo 

Wakorete wa 
Shine mo shiranu mo 
Au naku no seki. 



of the province of Omi and of the 
prefecture of Shiga, built on the 
shore of the lake. 

This city gained an unenviable 
place in the annals of contemporary 
Japan, through the attempted murder 
there of the Czarewitch on the 11th May, 
1891. The would-be assassain, Tsuda 
Sanzo, had distinguished himself on the 
loyal side in the Satsuma Rebellion, and 
having subsequently entered the police 
service, was actually ou duty at the time 
as one of the <Jzarewitchls guards. Some 
of the good people of Otsu proposed to 
alter the name of their city, which had 
thus become infamous ; but though such 
changes are by no means rare in Japan, 
this particular suggestion was not 
adopted. Tsuda Sanzo died a convict in 
Yezo in the latter part of the same year. 

On a hill close to the town stands 
the famous Buddhist temple of 

Miidera, No. 14 of the Thirty- 
three Places sacred to Kwannon 
(see p. 343). 

This monastery was founded in A.D. 
675 by the Emperor Tenji, arid rebuilt in 
magnificent style in the following century. 
The present structure, which dates only 
from 1690, is poor. The granite obelisk is 
quite modern, having been erected to the 
memory of the soldiers from this prefec- 
ture who fell fighting on the kwalist side 
against the Satsuma rebels. 

The view is entrancing, especially 
from the obelisk. On the spectator's 
extreme 1. is Hiei-zan, then Hira- 
yama ; next, in faint outline, the 
island of Chikubu-shima near the 
N. end of the lake, with the high 
land of Echizen behind; straight 
ahead are other mountains not 
specially notable, excepting pointed 
Chomeiji-yama, and Mikami-yama 
(Mukade-yama) shaped like a minia- 
ture Fuji. To the extreme r. is 
Tanakami-zan. At the spectator's 
feet are the lake and the town of 
Otsu, with the Canal running 
straight towards him. 

Not quite 1J ri N. of Otsu, along 
the W. shore of the lake by a 
level jinrikisha road, is 

Karnsaki, famous all over Japan 
for its giant pine-tree, which is 
one of the most curious trees in 
the world, and perhaps the very 
largest of its species — not in height, 



Karasaki. Seta Bridge. Ishiyama-dera. 



331 



but in extent. Its dimensions are 
stated as follows : 

Height, over 90 ft. 

Circumference of trunk, over 37 ,, 
Length of branches from 

E. to W 240,, 

Length of branches from N. 

to S 288,, 

Number of branches, over.. 380,, 

Most of the branches spread 
downwards and outwards, fan-like 
towards the ground, being in most 
places so low that one has to crouch 
in order to pass under them, and 
are supported by a whole scaffolding 
of wooden legs and stone cushions. 
The holes in the trunk are carefully 
stopped with plaster, and the top of 
the tree has a little roof over it to 
ward off the rain from a spot sup- 
posed to be delicate. In front of 
this tree, for which immemorial 
age has gained the reputation of 
sanctity, stands a trumpery little 
Shinto shrine sailed Karasaki Jinja. 

Those having time to spare should 
continue on 20 did further along 
this road to Sakamoto (Inn, Take- 
ya), just beyond which, on the 
slope of Hiei-zan, they will find the 
fine Temple ofSanno already referred 
to on p. 325. 

The best expedition_on the oppo- 
site, or S.E., side of Ofcsu is to the 
long bridge of Seta and the temple 
of Ishiyama-dera, a pleasant_jin- 
rikisha ride. After leaving Otsu, 
one passes through Zeze^ which is 
practically a suburb of Otsu (most 
Japanese prefer the Sakamoto-ya 
inn at Zeze to any of those at 
Otsu). Observe r. the barn-like 
temple of Empuku-in, with quaint 
images — some painted, some un- 
painted — of the Five Hundred 
Rakan, seated on shelves placed 
round three sides of the hall. On 
leaving Zeze, the road leads over a 
sort of common called Awazu-no- 
hara. Here the cultivated plain to 
the r., the avenue of pine-trees 
lining the road, the blue lake to the 
1., and the hills encircling the hori- 
zon — some brilliantly green with 



pine-trees, some bare and white, 
some blue in the distance, with 
broad spaces between, and the cone 
of Mikami-yama ahead — this tout- 
ensemble forms an ideal picture of 
tranquil and varied loveliness. Two 
did past the vill. of Torigawa, stands 
the celebrated 

Long" Bridge of Seta (Seta no 
Naga-hashi), spanning the waters of 
the lake at the picturesque spot 
where it narrows to form the Seta- 
gawa, so called from the vill. of 
Seta on the opposite bank. A bridge 
had existed at this spot from the 
earliest times. The present struc- 
ture was last repaired in 1875. 
Properly speaking, the bridge is two 
bridges, there being an island in 
mid-stream, on which they meet. 
The first bridge is 215 Japanese ft. 
long, the second 576 ft. A tiny 
Shinto shrine on the opposite bank 
of the river, to the r., is dedicated 
to the hero Tawara Toda Hidesato, 
who slew the giant centipede from 
which Mukade-yama takes its name. 
(See the story entitled My Lord 
Bag O'Rice in the Japanese Fairy 
Tale Series.) 

Returning to the vill. of Torigawa, 
we follow for a short distance down 
the r. bank of the Setagawa to 

Isliiyama-denio In the vill. just 
before reaching the temple are 
numerous tea-houses where lunch 
may conveniently be taken. 

This famous monastery, ISTo. 13 of the 
Thirty-three Holy Places, was founded in 
A.D. 749 by the monk Ryoben Sojo, in 
obedience to a command of the Emperor 
Shomu. Having been destroyed by fire in 
1078, it was rebuilt a century later by 
Yoritomo. The present main temple was 
built by Yodo-Gimi, the mother of Hicle- 
yori, towards the end of the 16th century. 
The name Ishi-yama-clera, lit. " the temple 
of the rocky mountain," is derived from 
some large black rocks of fantastic shape, 
which crop up out of the soil in the middle 
of the grounds, and have been utilised by 
the priests for purposes of landscape 
gardening. 

The temple grounds occupy the 
lower part of a thickly wooded hill 
on the r. bank of the river, and 
extend almost down to the water's 



332 



Route 40. — Lake Biwa. 



edge. Passing along an avenue of 
maple-trees and ascending a flight 
of steps, the visitor reaches the 
platform where stand the already- 
mentioned Mack rocks, above which 
again is the main temple, dedicated 
to the Two-Armed Omnipotent 
Kwannon. The building, which is 
partly supported on piles, is dingy 
within. The altar is so dark that 
the image of Kwannon can scarcely 
be distinguished. It is 16 ft. 
high, and is attributed to Ryo- 
ben. In its interior is hidden the 
real object of worship, a small 
image 6 inches in height, once 
owned by the famous Prince Sho- 
toku Taishi. On pillars in front 
of the altar hang prayer-wheels 
and a fortune-box (o mikuji-bako), 
the latter being a cylinder con- 
taining little brass chopsticks 
marked with notches, — one, two, 
three, and so on up to twelve. The 
anxious enquirer shakes one of 
these out of a small hole at one end 
of the cylinder, observes the number 
of notches on it, and then reads 
off, from a board hanging higher 
up, a verse telling what may 
be called his fortune, but is in 
many cases rather a short homily 
addressed to his characteristic de- 
fect. The date inscribed on the 
cylinder is 1888. The paper labels 
that will be noticed on the pillars 
are stuck there by pilgrims, and 
contain their names address and 
date of pilgrimage — are in fact a 
sort of visiting card. The small 
image near the entrance is Bisha- 
mon. A little room to the r., known 
as the Genji no Ma, is said to 
have been occupied by Murasaki 
Shikibu, a famous authoress of 
about A.D. 1000, during the com- 
position of her great romance, the 
Genji Monogatari. A small fee to 
the custodian will unlock the door, 
and enable the visitor to inspect 
the ink-slab she used and a manu- 
script Buddhist Sutra said to be in 
her handwriting. 

The grounds contain several minor 
temples and other buildings. Walk- 



ing up past the pagoda, one reaches 
the Tsuki-mi no Chin, whose name 
means literally "the Moon-Gazing 
Arbour." This point affords a charm- 
ing view of the lake, the river, the 
long bridge, and the mountains en- 
closing the basin of the lake to the 
E., the foreground being, how- 
ever, somewhat spoilt by rising 
ground all along the 1. bank of the 
river. Ishiyama-dera is famous for 
the beauty of its maple-trees in 
autumn. 

All the above can easily be seen 
within the limits of one day — Mii- 
dera, Karasaki, and Sakamoto being 
taken in the morning, and the Long 
Bridge with Ishiyama-dera in a 
short afternoon. A second day will 
be required to do the chief places 
on the E. shore of the lake, — Hikone 
and Nagahama, with perhaps Chi- 
kubu-shima. Those staying at the 
vill. of Ishiyama-dera may thence 
make a pleasant excursion to the 
temple of Tashiki Kwannon on the 
summit of a hill some way down the 
course of the Setagawa. 

Hikone (Inns, * Raku-raku-tei, 
near the castle-moat, with beau- 
tiful garden; Matsu-ya) is pictur- 
esquely situated on the shore of 
the lake, and possesses the remains 
of a fine feudal castle, formerly the 
seat of a Daimyo called Ii Kamon- 
no-Kami. 

This castle was about to perish in the 
general ruin of such buildings, which ac- 
companied the mania for all things Euro- 
pean and the contempt of their national 
antiquities, whereby the Japanese were 
actuated during the first two decades of 
the present regime. It so chanced, how- 
ever, that the Mikado, on a progress 
through Central Japan, spent a night at 
Hikone, and finding the local officials 
busy palling down the old castle, com- 
manded them to desist. The lover of the 
picturesque will probably be more grate- 
ful to His Majesty for this gracious act of 
clemency towards a doomed edifice than 
for many scores of the improvements 
which the present Government has set 
on foot, more especially when the so- 
called improvements relate to archi- 
tecture. 

About 3 J rtfrom Hikone, away in 
the hills towards Seki-ga-hara, is a 



Roiite 41. — Nara and Neighbourhood. 



838 



fish-breeding establishment (Yogyo- 
ba), where salmon and salrnon-brout 
are reared according to the most ap- 
proved modern methods. The place 
may be also reached from Maibara 
station, whence the distance is but 

2 ri 13 did. 

Nagaliama (Inn, Masu-ya at rail- 
way station), also on the_ lake, is 
the finest town between Otsu and 
Tsuruga, and commands a delight- 
ful view. 

This place is celebrated for its crape 
called hama-chirimen, for tsumugi woven 
from spun silk, and for mosquito netting, 
most of which is made in the surrounding 
villages by weavers who receive the thread 
from the dealers in the town and return it 
to them made up. When the crape comes 
from the weavers, it presents the appear- 
ance of gauze, and has to be boiled by 
persons called neri-ya. Upon drying it 
shrinks considerably in breadth, and 
assumes the wrinkled texture proper to 
crape. There are two qualities, one per- 
fectly white, which alone is suitable for 
dyeing scarlet, and another of a pale 
bluish tint which will take all other dyes. 
A large quantity of the raw silk used in 
this manufacture is produced in the 
neighbourhood. 

The island of Cliiknfoii-sMma 
near the N. end of Lake Biwa, 
can be reached from Nagahama, 

3 ri by boat. A better plan 
still is to take jinrikisha from 
Nagahama to the vill. of Hayazaki, 
whence it is only a passage of 50 
cho. Remember that Lake Biwa, 
like most lakes, is subject to sudden 
squalls, making it always advisable 
to engage an extra boatman in case 
of need. It is also sometimes 
possible, by previous application, to 
get one of the lake steamers to stop 
at the island. Cbikubu-shima, 
which is high and thickly-wooded, 
has a temple to Kwannon which is 
No. 30 of the Thirty-three Holy 
Places. There are no inns on the 
island. 

The priests tolerate no taking 
of life, whence doubtless the fact 
that myriads of cormorants and 
herons make their home here, 
particularly in the breeding season, 
July and August ; and it is a 
wonderful sight, at the approach of 



evening, to see them flocking thither 
from every quarter. From the sum- 
mit of the island one can look 
down upon their nests among the 
branches of the pine-trees, which 
there line the almost perpendicular 
coast. In order to prevent the birds 
from polluting the temple, the 
priests hangup boards which clatter 
in the wind, or are pulled by strings 
to frighten them away. 

The return journey by train from 
Nagahama to Otsu calls for no 
special description, the mountains, 
etc., that are seen being those al- 
ready often mentioned. 



EOUTE 41. 

Nara and Neighbourhood. 
1. osaka-nara railway. horyuji, 

2. NARA. 

Nara_is easily reached by train 
from Osaka. One of the inter- 
mediate stations, Horyuji, possesses 
considerable interest. 



1 


— Osaka-Nara Kailway. 


CD 

° _, • 

PI Pj c5 


Names 






J C^ 


of 




Remarks. 


^ «♦— I cc 


Stations. 






p lo 










OSAKA (Mina- 








to-machi). 






2£m. 


Tennoji. 






4f 


Hirano. 










( 


Alight for 


7| 


Yao 


temple of 
Shigi-sen. 






I 


10 


Kashiwabara. 










( 


Change for 


15f 


Oji 


Takata and 






Sakurai. 


IS 


Horyuji. 






22i 


Koriyaina. 






2o| 


NARA. 







_ The line, leaving the S.E. end of 
Osaka, crosses a wide, cultivat- 
ed plain encircled at a consider- 



334 



Route 41. — Nara and Neighbourhood. 



able distance by mountains, those 
ahead and to the r. being the 
mountains of Yamato, the province 
in which Nara stands. The scenery 
is picturesque between Kashiwa- 
bara and Oji, after which latter 
place on to Nara it becomes flat. 

From Yao it is 50 did to Shigi-sen, 
the scene of a famous victory by 
Shotoku Taishi over the rebel Mo- 
nonobe-no-Moriya. The temple is 
dedicated to Bishamon, who is sup- 
posed to have lent his assistance 
to the victor. It is adorned with 
the crest of centipedes peculiar to 
that divinity. 

At Kashiwalmra is a temple 
called Domyoji, to which yearly 
pilgrimages are made. The vill. of 

HoryiTji {Inns, Daikoku-ya, Kase- 
ya) takes its name from a very 
ancient monastery, which, though 
somewhat battered by time, well 
merits a visit from the student of 
art and antiquity. 

Horyuji is the oldest existing Buddhist 
temple in Japan, having been founded by 
Shotoku Taishi and completed in A.D. 607. 
Owing to its exceptionally important 
collection of art treasures, it some years 
ago attracted the attention of* art critics 
•and of the Imperial Government, the 
latter having in 18S7 given a sum of 
$10,00^ towards its support. There is 
also a local Hozon-kwai, or Society for the 
Preservation of the Temple. The temple 
is always open, excepting on certain 
special occasions. A fee of $1 should be 
given to the custodian, who will show 
the visitor the various objects of art 
(reiho-mono) . 

Instead of entering by the main 
gate, called Ahczu-no-mon, it is 
usual to take a short cut through 
the Hachiman gate close to the inns. 
In this way the Yume-dono is visit- 
ed first, and the principal part of 
the monastery taken afterwards. 
The Yume-dono, or Hall of Dreams, 
an octagonal building in the centre 
of an enclosure surrounded by a 
closed gallery, is dedicated to Kwan- 
non. On the E. of the image of this 
goddess is that of the Eleven-faced 
Kwannon (600 years old), and on 
theW., Shotoku Taishi, 1,100 years 
old. The Yume-dono is now gene- 
rally kept closed. Behind it is a 



long building, in the r. part of 
which, called the Shariden, the 
pupil of the left eye of Buddha is 
kept. It is shown every day at 
noon. The walls are covered with 
paintings by a Chinese artist named 
Shun-in. In the 1. part of the 
building, called Go Eiden, are wall- 
pictures representing the events of 
the prince's life, attributed to Hada- 
no-Chishin, A.D. 1069. In this 
room is an ancient bronze image 
called Yume-tagai no Kwannon> 
which is invoked to counteract the 
effects of bad dreams. Other build- 
ings near by are the Dcmbd-do con- 
nected by a small bridge, and 
Sogenji. 

Leaving this part of the monas- 
tery, we pass through a gate- 
way, and come to a building 
which contains a small eques- 
trian statue of Shotoku Taishi sub- 
duing Moriya-no-Daijin ; the in- 
cident is depicted in greater detail 
upon the ex-voto paiuting outside. 
In the corresponding building, call- 
ed Taishi-do or Shoryo-in, which 
is said to be in the same style as 
the Shishin-den, or Chief Reception 
Hall of the ancient palace of Nara, 
is an image of the prince at the age 
of thirty-five attributed to himself, 
and a Nyo-i-rin Kwannon and Jizd 
by a Korean sculptor of the 6th 
century. 

We now approach the chief tem- 
ples, which stand in an oblong 
enclosure surrounded by a kioairo, 
or large closed gallery. The Ni-o 
in the two-storied gateway are 
remarkable statues ; the black one 
is carved out of a single cryptomeria 
trunk, while the red one opposite is 
of wood covered with clay. The 
Kondo, which stands a little on the 
1. of the entrance, and the pagoda 
are all that are left of the original 
buildings, and are the oldest wooden 
structures in Japan, their age 
being over twelve centuries and a 
half. The Kondo contains, on the 
S. side, a bronze image of Buddha, 
formerly gilt, attributed to Tori 
Busshi, flanked by Yakuo Bosatsu 



Horyvji. Tatta, 



335 



and Yakujo Bosatsu. On the E. 
side is Yakushi Nyorai, also by Tori 
Busshi, with Nikko Bosatsu and 
Gwakko Bosatsu r. and 1. The W. 
side is occupied by Amida, accom- 
panied by Kwannon and Seishi. 
These three images were cast in 
1231 to replace the original ones, 
which had been stolen. The wooden 
figures of Tamon-Ten and Kichijo- 
Ten date also from the middle of 
the 13th century. The Shi-Tenno 
are by two Chinese sculptors, and 
belong to the middle of the 7th cen- 
tury. The bronze image of Yaku- 
shi and the wooden figure of Fugen 
are said to have been brought to 
Japan by the Indian priest whose 
name is translated Zemui. On the 
N. side is another bronze Amida, 
flanked by Kwannon and Seishi, 
.said to have belonged to Komyo 
Tenno (A.D. 1336 — 1348). The 
lanky wooden figure of Kokuzo Bo- 
satsu, 8 ft. high, and the wooden 
Kwannon are said to be Indian. 
The walls are covered with paint- 
ings of Buddhist subjects executed 
in a noble manner, attributed to the 
sculptor Tori Busshi and to a Korean 
priest of the same early period, 
which are of extreme interest and 
value for the history of art in Japan. 
Of their great antiquity there can 
be little doubt, and the excellence 
of the style in itself confirms the 
opinion that they are the work of 
Korean artists, for they are superior 
to anything known to have been 
produced by Japanese painters. The 
ground-floor of the pagoda contains 
some very curious tinted tera-cotta 
groups ascribed to Tori Busshi ; on 
the S., Amida with Kwannon and 
Daiseishi ; on the E., Monju and 
Jomyd Koji or Yuima ; on the N., 
the entry of Shaka into Nirvana ; 
and on the W. his cremation. The 
expression on the countenances of 
some of the weeping disciples is 
excellent ; their costume represents 
what was supposed by the sculptor 
to be Indian dress. The Dai-Kodo, 
or great Lecture Hall, on the N. 
side of the closed gallery, is dedi- 



cated to Yakushi and a host of 
other deities. 

On a mound behind is the Mine no 
Yakushi , an octagonal building dedi- 
cated to Yakushi. The image of this 
deity and the twelve smaller images 
representing the Signs of the Zodiac 
are attributed to Gyogi Bosatsu. 
This temple is a unique sight, being 
literally hidden under the enor- 
mous number of short swords and 
metal mirrors placed there as offer- 
ings by men and women respec- 
tively, whose prayers for restoration 
to health have proved efficacious. 
Drills, presented by persons who 
have been cured of deafness, also 
line the walls in great numbers. 
The Kami-no-Do, a building on the 
r., contains colossal images of Sha- 
ka, Monju, Fugen, the Shi-Tenno, a 
group representing the death of 
Buddha, and paintings depicting 
the eight scenes of his existence, 
viz. his birth in the Tushita heaven, 
his conception by Maya Bunin, his 
birth on earth, admission into the 
priesthood, temptations, perfection, 
preaching, and entry into Nirvana. 
In the building called Sankyo-in, 
on the W. side of the closed gallery, 
is an image of Shotoku Taishi at 
the age of forty-two, besides an 
Amida by Gyogi, a Monju, a Miroku, 
and the Shi-Tenno. 

The principal annual festival at 
Horyuji is celebrated on the 22nd 
day of the 9th moon, according to 
the old Japanese calendar. 

[Some 12 did from Horyuji stands 
Tattii, formerly pronounced 
Tatsuta, which is famous in 
Japanese poetry for the maples 
lining the banks of the river 
that flows past it. Near Horyu- 
ji, too, is the Misasagi, or Tumu- 
lus of Suinin Tenno, a prehis- 
toric Mikado supposed to have 
reigned at the beginning of the 
Christian era. It is a large and 
striking gourd-shaped mound, 
planted with trees and having 
a broad new moat round it, and 
at one end a small torii form- 



336 



Route 41. — Nara and Neighbourhood. 



ing the approach to a neat 
gravel walk.] 

Koriyama (Inn, Kiku-ya). The 

walls of Nara, when that city was 
the capital, extended almost to 
what is now the E. limit of this 
town. 

2. — Nara. 

Nara, (Inns, Musashino, pret- 
tily situated in the park at the foot 
of Mikasa-yama ; Kado-ya, conven- 
ient central situation, — both semi- 
foreign. Also * Kiku-ya, Imban-ya 
near Sarusawa-no-ike, Jap. ; Jap. 
rest., Sawano-ya, near Kobukuji) is 
sometimes called Nanto by the 
learned. 

The chief products of Nara are 
Indian ink, fans, and little wooden 
toy figures of the No performances, 
called Nara ningyo. 

Nara was the capital of Japan during 
seven reigns, from A.D. 709 to 784, when 
the Emperor Kwammu removed the seat 
of government to the province of Yama- 
shiro. The town is at the present day 
probably but a tenth of its former 
size. It is situated in the North of 
Yamato, close to the boundary of Yama- 
shiro, and at the foot of a range of moun- 
tains which runs N. and S , roughly 
dividing the upper part of Yamato into 
two equal parts . The site where the palace 
stood is about three miles W. of the town 
on the Hokkeji road. 

From the Musashino inn, the 
chief sights of Nara may be conven- 
iently taken in the following order 
on the way back to the railway 
station. 

Kasa^a no My a. 

This temple is dedicated to the ancestor 
of the Fujiwara family, the bhinto god 
Ama-no-Koyane, to his wife, and to the 
gods, or mythical heroes Take-mikazuchi 
and Fufcsu-nushi. It is said to have been 
founded in A.D. 767, at the desire of 
Take-mikazuchi, who rode up to Nara on 
a white deer in search of a new residence, 
and then summoned the other three gods 
to come and dwell with him there. The 
great yearly festival is held on the 17th 
December. ' 

From the inn the path descends 
the steps past the shops where the 
Nara ningyo and articles made out 
of deer's horns are sold, crosses a 
bridge over a tiny stream called the 



Izagawa, and turns up to the 1. 
through a red painted temple dedi- 
cated to Gozu Tenno (or Susa-no-o, 
see p. 48). It then continues through 
the wood to a clearing at the back 
of the temple, where tame deer 
usually congregate in the expecta- 
tion of being fed, and, passing 
through rows of stone lanterns 
of which it is said that no 
one knows the number, enters the 
Main Temple through a side gate 
in the Sujikai-no-Ma, a gallery 
attributed to the famous carver 
Hidari Jiugoro. The bright red of 
the temple edifices and the count- 
less brass lanterns with which they 
are hung, contrast strikingly with 
the reposeful green of the magni- 
ficent cryptomerias all around and 
between the buildings. The open 
shed called the Haiya, or Oratory, 
where in ancient times the Dai- 
myos used to come to worship, is 
now used by the townspeople on 
the evening of the Setsubun (3rd 
February) for the performance of 
the ceremony of scattering beans 
to expel evil spirits. In the S.W. 
corner of the outer gallery is a 
small shrine fo Saruta-hiko, the 
god who is supposed to be lord of 
the soil. 

According to the myth, this god made 
an agreement with the god of Ka.shima to 
lease 3 ft. of earth to him ; but the latter 
cunningly enclosed 3 ri square of ground 
during the night, pretending that the 
"three feet" in the contract referred only 
to the depth of the soil. It is the popular 
belief that, in consequence of this trick 
of Take-mikazuchi, no tree on Kasuga- 
yama sends its roots more than 3 ft. below 
the surface. 

At the end of a long avenue of 
standing lanterns to the r. of the 
Main Temple stands the Wakami- 
ya, a temple dedicated to Ama-no- 
oshi-kumo, son of Ama-no-koyane. 
Many of the lanterns which line 
the approach are lighted every night. 
Formerly, when the annual sub- 
scriptions for that purpose were 
liberal, all were lighted, and the 
effect produced among the dark 
evergreens of the grove was highly 
effective. In front stand an open 



Temples of Kasuga, Hach'nnan, and Ni-gwatsu-do. 337 



shed where pilgrims bow down, and 
a long low building occupied by the 
priests. A few young girls are in 
attendance to perform the ancient 
dance called kagura. Their dress 
consists of a pair of wide red trow- 
sers, a white under-garment, and a 
long gauzy mantle adorned with the 
Kasuga crest of wistaria, — a crest 
doubtless derived from the wild wis- 
tarias whose blossoms luxuriate in 
this park early inMay. The dancers' 
hair is gathered into a long tress 
which hangs down behind ; a chap- 
let of artificial flowers — the wis- 
taria and scarlet single camellia — 
is worn on the forehead, and the 
face is plastered thickly with white- 
lead powder. The girls hold in 
their hands, as the dance proceeds, 
now a branch of a tree, now a bunch 
of small bells. The orchestra con- 
sists of three priests, who perform on 
the drum and flute and chant a 
sacred so ag. The payment demand- 
ed is from 50 sen up to $10, accord- 
ing to the length of the performance. 
The Oku-no-in, lying beyond the 
Wakamiya, is uninteresting. 

Returning to the Musashino inn 
the way he came, the traveller can 
go for a short way by jinrikisha 
through the wood to the 

Tamuke-yama no Hachiman, an- 
other red and white Shinto temple, 
now somewhat decayed, but cele- 
brated in Japanese poetry as the 
scene of an ode by Sugawara- 
no-Michizane, included in the clas- 
sical " Century of Poets " (Hyaku- 
nin Is-shn). It says : 

Kono tabi v:a 

Nusa mo torl-aezu 
Tamuke-yama 

Momiji no nishiki 

Kami no mani-mani 

which may be roughly rendered as 
follows : 

" This time I bring with me no 
offerings; the gods may take to 
their hearts' content of the damask 
of the maple-leaves on Mount 
Tamuke," — the allusion being to 
the maple-trees which grow in 



plenty on this spot. The brightly 
coloured mural picture in the build- 
ing 1. on entering, represents the 
encounter at the Rasho-mon in 
Kyoto between Watanabe-no-Tsuna 
and the ogre. Leaving Tamuke- 
yama, and passing the temple of 
San-gioatsu-do, now too much de- 
cayed to deserve more than a paren- 
thetical reference to the great gaunt 
images contained in it, we reach the 
Ni-gwatsii-(16, a & ne Buddhist 
temple of original aspect. It seems 
to cling to the side of the hill 
against which it is built out on 
piles, and is led up to by a steep 
flight of stone steps, while a perfect 
cloud of metal lanterns hung all 
along the front lends its quota of 
peculiarity to the general appear- 
ance. Parallel to the flight of steps on 
the other side, is a "gallery called" 
Taimatsu no Roka, or Torch Gallery, 
because torch-light processions wend 
their way up it on the great festival 
night, the 3rd February. It is be- 
lieved to be miraculously preserved 
against danger from fire. The re is a 
fine view over the town from the front 
magnificent timber and the tiled 
roof of the Hall of the Daibutsu 
being the most noticeable features. 

The Ni-gwatsu-do, which is dedicated to 
Kwannon, was founded in A. D. 752, though 
the present building is only about two cen- 
turies old. According to the legend, a tiny 
copper image of Kwannon had been picked 
up, which possessed the miraculous qua- 
lity of being warm like living flesh. Ever 
since it was enshrined in this temple, the 
custom has been to hold a special series 
of services called Dattun no Okonai during 
the first half of the second month of the 
year, whence the name Ni-gwatsu-do (Hall 
of the Second Moon). The image is ex- 
posed for adoration on the lbth of each 
month. 

Descending the Torch Gallery, 
we reach a well called Wakasa no J, 
contained in a small building which 
is opened only on the 1st February 
of each year. 

Legend says that when the founder 
dedicated the temple, the god of Onyu. in 
the province of Wakasa begged leave to 
provide the holy water, whereupon a white 
and a black cormorant flew out of the rock 
and disappeared, while water gushed forth 
from the hole. From that time the stream 



338 



Route 41. — Nara and Neighbourhood. 



which had flowed past the chapel of Onyu 
dried up, its waters having been trans- 
ferred to the Ni-gwatsu-do. Local lore 
tells of unbelievers having become con- 
vinced of the truth of the miracle by 
throwing rice-husks into the original 
spring in Wakasa, which turned up after 
a due interval in the spring here at Nara. 

We next reach the enclosure of 
Todaiji. first passing the famous 
bell which hangs in a substantial 
belfry, 

This great bell was cast in A. D. 732. Its 
measurements are : — height 13 ft. 6 in , 
greatest diameter 9 ft. 1.3 in., and greatest 
thickness at the edge 5 4 in. (Japanese 
measure). Nearly H6 tons of copper and 
1 ton of tin were used in the casting. 

and then proceeding downhill 
through the wood to the huge, 
ungainly building which contains 
the DaiblitSH, or Gigantic Image of 
Buddha, larger than the one at 
Kamakura, though less admirable 
as a work of art. 

Founded by Shomu Tenno, the temple 
of Todaiji was completed about the year 
750, but on a much grander scale than it 
now displays. The actual building con- 
taining the i >aibutsu, though it dates only 
from the beginning of the 18th century, is 
already much weather-worn and out of the 
perpendicular. Its dimensions are stated 
as follows :— height 156 ft., length of front 
290 ft., depth 170 ft. 

The Hall has recently been so 
arranged that one may enter with- 
out taking off one's boots. Indeed 
the whole place has lost its religious 
character, the side and back part 
of the building having been turned 
into an exhibition, thus producing 
a painful impression of desecration. 
The height of the image is given as 
53 ft. It is in a sitting posture, with 
the legs crossed, the right hand up- 
lifted, its palm outwards and 
the tips of the fingers about on a 
level with the shoulder, and the left 
hand resting on the knee with the 
back of the fingers towards the 
spectator. The body of the image 
and all the most ancient part of the 
lotus-flowers on which it is seated, 
are apparently formed of plates of 
bronze 10 in. by 12 in., soldered 
together. The modern parts are much 
larger castings, and not soldered. 



The petals of the reversed lotus 
seem to be single castings, and the 
head, which is much darker in 
colour, also looks like a single piece. 
A peculiar method of construction 
is said to have been adopted — name- 
ly, that of gradually building up the 
walls of the mould as the lower part 
of the casting cooled, instead of 
constructing the whole mould first, 
and then making the casting in a 
single piece. The thickness of the 
casting varies from 6 in. to 10 in. 
The original parts of the upturned 
lotus forming the image's seat are 
engraved with representations of 
Buddhist gods and of Shumisen 
(Sanskrit Sumeru), the central axis 
of the universe, surrounded by 
various tiers of heavens. Here and 
there traces of substantial gilding 
are visible, which lead to the con- 
jecture that the whole image was 
gilt when first made. The 
modern head is ugly, owing to its 
black colour, and to its broad nos- 
trils and swollen cheeks. Behind it 
rises up a brightly gilt wooden glory 
containing large images of Bosatsu. 
Visitors are allowed to walk up a 
scaffolding to inspect the upper and 
back parts of the image. On the 
Daibutsu's r. hand is a gilt image 
of Kokuzo Bosatsu, which, though 
18 ft. high, looks as nothing in com- 
parison. To the 1. is a Nyo-i-rin 
Kwannon of the same size. Both 
these subordinate images date from 
the beginning of the 18th century. 

The history of the Nara Daibutsu is as 
follows. In' the year 736 the Emperor 
Shomu determined to construct a colos- 
sal Buddhist image, but fearing to 
offend the native gods, sent the priest 
Gyogi to the Sun-Goddess's temple in Ise 
to present her with a relic of Buddha, and 
enquire how she would regard his project. 
Gyogi passed seven days and nights at 
the foot of a tree close to her gate, at 
the end of which time the doors flew 
open, and a loud voice pronounced an 
oracular sentence which was interpreted 
as favourable. On the night after Gyogi's 
return, the Mikado dreamt that the Sun- 
Goddess appeared to him. and announced 
her approval of his plan, and he in 
consequence determined to have an image 
!6'> ft. high made of gold and copper. A pro- 
clamation was issued in A.D. 743, calling 



The Daibutsu. Shoso-in. Kobukitji. 



339 



upon the people to contribute, and in 744 
the Mikado himself directed the construc- 
tion of the model. JThe image was to be 
cast at Shigaraki in Omi, the then capital ; 
but two years later the Court removed 
to Nara, and it was not completed. 
In 747 Shomu began the casting of an- 
other image, and with his own hands 
carried earth to built the platform. 
Eight attempts in all were made, which 
were finally crowned with success in 
749. As Japan had not up to that time 
produced any gold, the Mikado was 
in despair lest he should not be able 
to procure enough to gild the Daibutsu 
all over; but the discovery of gold in 
Oshu in the same year came opportunely 
to supply the want. In 859 the head 
fell off, but was replaced. In 1180 the 
whole building was destroyed by fire 
in a civil war, and the head of the 
image was melted in the flames, but both 
temple and image were restored fifteen 
years later. The temple was again burnt 
in 1567, and once more the head fell off. 
It was replaced not long after at the ex- 
pense of a private individual. From 
this time the image remained exposed to 
the elements until the reconstruction of 
the temple about a hundred and thirty 
years later. The deity represented is 
Roshana, or Birushana, an impersonation 
of light, whom priestly ingenuity easily 
identified with the Shinto Sun-Goddess. 

Immediately behind the great 
image are shown some 8fch cen- 
tury masks, tiles of the original 
temple, a coloured statuette of the 
■abbot Kokei Shonm who built the 
present edifice, etc., etc. The Ex- 
hibition proper — the exhibits being 
set out in cases all round the inner 
walls of the Daibutsu-do— is ex- 
tremely interesting, for the antique 
-objects shown are very numerous 
•and undoubtedly genuine. To begin 
with, there is a large number of 
ancient wooden statues, chiefly 
Buddhistic, brought together from 
various smaller temples in Nara 
and elsewhere. Some of them re- 
tain traces of rich colouring. Then 
there are carvings in high-relief of 
-the twelve followers of Yakushi, at- 
tributed to Kobo Daishi and evident- 
ly very old,— a grotesque but spirited 
set. Next we come to some curious 
old reliquaries, models, musical in- 
struments, swords, ancient boxes, 
articles in lacquer, pottery and por- 
celain, woven stuffs, masks used in 
the pantomimic dances of early 



days, and horse-trappings. At the 
end are some absurd peep-shows. 

In the spacious courtyard in front 
of the Daibutsu-do is a remarkable 
ancient octagonal bronze lantern 
carved in open-work, with Buddhist 
images and conventional animals. 
It is ascribed to a Chinese artist of 
the 8th century, and is the finest 
existing as well as one of the earliest 
specimens of such work. Behind the 
Daibutsu-do, in the wood, is a cele- 
brated store-house called the Shoso- 
in, in which, over a thousand years 
ago, specimens of all the articles 
then in daily use at the Imperial 
Court were put away, thus form- 
ing an invaluable archaeological 
museum, which, however, is unfor- 
tunately not generally open to the 
public, though permission to view 
the contents is sometimes granted 
on the occasion of airing thein 
(mushi-boshi) during the dog-days. 
A few specimens have been placed 
in the Ueno Museum at Tokyo. 
The visitor leaves the grounds of 
Todaiji and its Daibutsu by two 
large gates, called respectively Ni- 
ten-mon and Ni-o-mon. The latter 
has in the exterior niches a colossal 
pair of Ni-o, which are considered 
admirable specimens of that class 
of sculpture. They are attributed to 
Kwaikei, (flourished circa A.D. 
1095). The interior niches contain a 
remarkable pair of lions carved out of 
Chinese stone by a Chinese sculptor 
of the 12th century. Joining the 
great avenue which leads up to the 
temple of Kasuga, but walking down 
instead of up it and passing through 
the large torii, we come to the Kiku- 
ya Hotel, beyond which, to the r., 
is the Buddhist temple of 

Kofoitkoji, conspicuous by its two 
pagodas. This once grand temple, 
founded in A.D. 710, was burnt in 
1717 and retains little of its ancient 
splendour. The following buildings 
may be mentioned: — the Tokondo, 
dedicated to Yakushi Nyorai ; 

The enormous pine-tree with spreading 
branches supported on poles in front of 
the Tokondo, is said to have been planted 



340 



Route 41. — Nara and Neighbourhood. 



by Kobo Daishi to take the place of 
flowers as a perpetual offering to the god 
Yakushi. 

the Kondo, which is full of excellent 
ancient wooden statues, including 
a pair of M-o, attributed to a Korean 
immigrant of the beginning of the 
7th century, remarkable for their cor- 
rect anatomy, and regarded by con- 
noisseurs as the best examples of 
wood-carving to be found in Japan ; 
and the Nan-endo, an octagonal 
building containing two colossal 
images of Kwannon. 

The octagonal shape of the building is 
copied from the fabulous Buddhist moun- 
tain Fudaraku-sen (Sanskrit Potala), 
Kwannon' s favourite retreat. 

The two-storied European build- 
ing close by is the Prefecture. 
South of Kobukuji, under a hill, 
lies a pond called Sarusawa no Ike. 

Local legend tells of a beautiful 
maiden at the Mikado's court, who was 
wooed by all the courtiers, but rejected 
their offers of marriage, because she was 
in love with the Mikado. The latter look- 
ed graciously on her for a while ; but 
when he afterwards began to neglect her, 
she went secretly away by night and 
drowned herself in this pond. 

The small platform at the side of 
the road to the r. of the pond is for 
the use of pilgrims desirous of per- 
forming from a distance their 
obeisances to the Mausoleum of 
Jimmu Tenno (see next page). Near 
the outskirts of the town in this 
direction are the Tumuli of the Em- 
perors Kaikwa and Shomu — mere 
mounds interesting only to the pro- 
fessed antiquarian. 

This ends the sights of Nara. 
A little spare time might be de- 
voted to walking up Mikasa- 
yama close behind the Musashi- 
no Hotel. From the stone at 
the summit (600 ft. above the base), 
a fine view N.W. is obtained of the 
Kizugawa valley, and W., of the 
plain of Nara stretching away to 
the mountains which divide it from 
the province of Kawachi. The town 
of Koriyama lies S.W. 

[Seven ri to the N.E. of Nara, up 
the course of the Kizugawa, 



is the village of Tsnkigase, 
famous for its plum-tree or- 
chards, which line the stream 
for upwards of 2 miles, and dif- 
fuse a delicious perfume in 
March when they are in blossom. 
No other place in Japan can 
boast such a show of the pink and 
white flowers of this fragrant 
tree. Some rapids, which occur 
a little lower down the course of 
the river, afford a pleasant 
change for a portion of the 
return journey to Nara ; or else 
the traveller may join the 
Kwansei Railway at Tsuge, and 
proceed either W. to Kusatsu 
and Kyoto, or E. to Yokkaichi 
and Tokyo.] 

A pleasant short day's excursion 
for travellers staying at Nara is to 
take the train to Horyuji, and, after 
visiting the temple there, to proceed 
by jinrikisha to Yakushi-ji, a run 
of about § hr. This ancient temple, 
also known as Nishi-no-Kyo, is 
now much dilapidated, but it en- 
shrines some of the grandest bronze 
images bequeathed to us by early 
Japanese — or more, strictly speak- 
ing, Korean — art. Such are the 
gigantic Yakushi, and the images of 
Amida and his two followers, cast 
about the end of the 7th century, 
and the Kwannon (Slid Kivannon), 
said to have been made of gold from 
the fabulous Mount M£ru. The 
neighbouring temples of Shodaiji 
and Saidaiji, also on the verge of ruin 
owing to neglect, similarly merit 
the antiquarian's attention. The 
bronze images of the Shi-Tenno at 
Saidaiji, cast in A.D. 765, are 
singled out by Dr. Anderson for 
special praise. 

The jinrikisha ride back from 
Yakushi-ji to Nara will occupy 
about 2 hrs. 



Route 42. — Through Yamato to Koya-san and Wahayama. 341 



EOUTE 42. 

Through Yamato to the Monas- 
tery OF K6YA-SAN AND TO WAKA- 
YAMA IN KlSHU. 

MAUSOLEUM OF JIMMU TENNO. 
MIWA. HASE. (THE THIRTY-THREE 
HOLY PLACES OF KWANNON). TO- 
NOMINE. YOSHINO. OMINE AND THE 
MOUNTAINS OF YAMATO. KOYA-SAN. 
FROM KOYA-SAN TO OSAKA. KO- 
KAWA-DERA. NEGORO-JI. KIMII- 
DERA. WAKA-NO-URA. COAST OF 
IZUMI. 

This route, though quite off the 
beaten tracks, includes many names 
classic to Japanese ears, and may 
be specially recommended to lovers 
of ancient religious art, but not to 
persons unfamiliar with the native 
language, customs, and history. 
The wilds of Yoshiuo (pp. 348-9) 
offer an almost virgin field to the 
explorer. 

_ The start is made by rail from 
Osaka, the line being a branch of 
the Osaka-Nara Railway described 
in Route 4L Travellers change 
carriages at Oji. 

Oji-Sakurai Branch Railway. 



Distance 
from 
Oji. 


Names 

of 
Stations. 


Remarks. 


- 


OJI Jet 


( Compare sche- 
l duleonp. 333. 


4m. 


Shimoda. 




7 


Takata. 




10 


Unebi, 




13 


SAKURAI. 





The best plan is to take the train 
as far as Unebi, which is close to 
Jimmu Tenno's Mausoleum, and 
thence proceed by jinrikisha to Saku- 
rai via the Mausoleum. The roads in 
all this district are excellent. The 
rest of the route, from Sakurai on- 
wards, is as follows : 



Itinerary. 

SAKURAI to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Hase 1 23 4 

Back to Sakurai . . 1 23 4 

Tonomine 1 23 4 

Kami-ichi .... 3 8 7| 

Yoshino (about) . . 25 If 

Muda 1 — 2i 

GO JO 4 — 9| 

Hashimoto 2 3 5 

Kamuro 1 — 2J 

Kane (about).. 1 14 3 £ 

Kaniya „ . . 1 14 3J 

KOYA-SAN „ . . 1 14 3J 

Kokawa „ ..8 — 19J 

Iwade 3 9 8 

WAKAYAMA .... 3 32 9f 

Yamaguchi 2 32 7 

Shindachi 3 15 8J 

Sano 1 28 4£ 

KAIZUKA 1 18 3f 

Kishiwada 22 1J 

Otsu 1 13 3J 

Takaishi 30 2 

SAKAI 2 5 5J 

Total 50 27 124 



By train from Sakai to Osaka in 
20 min. 

The raising of a grand mausoleum to 
Jimmu Tenno, the Japanese Romulus, at 
Kashiwabara where his capital is believed 
to have stood, may be regarded as the 
culminating point of the triumphant la- 
bours of the archaeological and Shinto 
party, which, beginning early in the 18th. 
century by the annotation of ancient texts 
and the re-adoption of obsolete religious 
usages, has ended in our own d.&y by re- 
storing the Mikado to his long lost autho- 
rity, while such comparatively modern 
innovations as the Shogunate have been 
trampled under foot, and the foreign reli- 
gion, Buddhism, if not killed, at least 
deprived of official favour and emolument. 
On Jimmu Tenno, as the first Mikado, 
and on the other early monarchs of his 
line, a portion of the political and religi- 
ous enthusiasm felt for their latest de- 
scendants reflects itself, Yamato and the 
adjacent provinces are covered with the 
tumuli — misasagi as they are termed — of 
these long-neglected rulers, which, till 
within the last thirty years, were treat- 
ed with scant reverence by the pea- 
santry who used there to cut fodder for 
their cattle. All the tumuli have now been 
identified, — not perhaps in every case 
by methods sufficiently strict to satisfy 



342 Route 42. — Through Yamato to Koya-san and Wakayama* 



the European critic, hut at least by pains- 
taking reference to the oldest available 
sources of the national history ; and that 
some great personages were interred 
under the tumuli in question, is evident 
from the gold ornaments, the pottery, 
and other relics dug out of them during 
the earlier stages of the search. However 
legitimately destructive European criti- 
cism may be of the authenticity of Jimmu 
Tenno's history and of the claims of any 
particular tumulus to the name it is now 
made to bear, one cannot but experience 
a feeling of interest and reverence 
in presence of such very ancient re- 
mains. This fertile plain of Yamato 
was the earliest historic centre of tlie 
Japanese race, and has certainly for 
thirteen centuries, and probably for a 
much longer period, been the home of a 
unique civilisation. The various Imperial 
tumuli may now be recognised by the 
barrier — generally a granite fence— sur- 
rounding a hillock overgrown with trees, 
and by the stone torii standing at the 
entrance to a neat gravel walk. In some 
cases the mound is gourd-shaped, of 
considerable size, and surrounded by a 
moat. Jimmu Tenno's tumulus is the 
most sacred of these, though low and 
inconspicuous. 

Just before reaching the Tumulus 
of Jimmu Tenuo, one passes 1. 
that of the Emperor Suizei, his 
immediate successor. The wooded 
hill seen ahead is Unebi-yama, 
constantly mentioned by the early 
Japanese poets. Jimmu Tenno's 
tumulus lies at its N.E. foot ; 
the hamlet of Kashiwabara and 
the mausoleum are 8 cho to the S.W. 
To the r. rise Nijo-san or Futago- 
yama, so-called from its double 
peak, and the long ridge of Katsu- 
ragi-yama and Kongo-zan. To the 
extreme 1. is Tonomine, the highest 
point of a range on another portion 
of which, further ahead, may be 
seen glistening the white walls of 
the castle of Takatori. The tumu- 
lus was first enclosed in 1863, 
the outer stone fence dates from 
about 1877, the granite screen 
(tamagaki) and large wooden torii 
inside the grounds and nearest to 
the actual tumulus, from 1890. 
The torii is of peculiar construction, 
the lower portion being a sort of 
lattice-work. An iron gate in front 
of this torii bars access to it, the 
ground beyond being considered 



sacred ; and as the inner bank is 
lined with trees, scarcely a glimpse 
of the low tumulus can be ob- 
tained. The chief building op- 
posite the entrance is intended to 
accommodate the Imperial mes- 
senger (chokushi-kivan), who comes 
yearly to worship as representative 
of the Mikado. The traveller will re- 
enter his jinrikisha to reach the 

Mausoleum {Kashiwabara Jinja), 
begun in April, 1890, and not likely to 
be completed for some years, as the 
buildings are on an elaborate scale. 
The idea is to restore Jimmu Tenno's 
palace on its original site ; and as 
Imperialism and Shinto go hand 
in hand, the result is a set of struc- 
tures half-palace half-temple. Two 
wings of the Imperial Palace at 
Kyoto — the Naishi-dokoro and Shin- 
ka-den — have been removed to this 
spot. 

The Shin ka-den is a kind of shed, 72 ft. 
by 40 ft., in which the Mikado celebrates, 
the Harvest Festival {Shinjb-sui). In the 
Naishi-dokoro, also called Kashiko-dokoro,, 
is preserved a replica of the sacred mirror 
given to his ancestor by the Sun-Goddess, 
the original of which is at her temple in 
Ise. When the Palace was destroyed by 
fire in A.D. 960, the mirror flew ont of the 
building in which it was then deposited, 
and alighted on a cherry-tree, where it 
was found by one of the Naishi, a class of 
females who attended on the Mikado. 
Henceforth these attendants always hacL 
charge of it, whence the name Naishi- 
dokoro. The alternative name of ICashiko* 
dokoro signifies the "fearful (or awe- 
inspiring) place." 

The Shinka-den stands in front, 
the Naishi-dokoro behind, connect- 
ed with it by an oratory (norito- 
ya). In the court are planted an 
Ukon no Tachibana and Sakon n& 
Sakura, as in the Kyoto Palace 
(see p. 300). Either side of this^ 
block of buildings is lined by a 
gallery. To the 1., outside the 
enclosure, is the Shinscvjo where 
the offerings are prepared, and. 
beside it is the temple office. In 
the background, godowns are to be 
built for the various sacred trea- 
sures, and at the entrance a house 
for the Imperial envoy. The 
materials are plain white wood audi 
granite. 



Miwa. The Thirty three Holy Places. 



343 



Beturning past the tumulus the 
way we came, and then diverging 
to the r., we perceive in front a hill 
much more like a large artificial 
tumulus than any other in the 
vicinity, hut which is not account- 
ed such. It is called Tenjin-yama, 
because dedicated to the god Ten- 
jin. Soon we reach the town of 

Sakurai (Inn Taba-ichi) , in which , 
however, there is nothing par- 
ticular to see. Notice only the 
peculiar effect produced here and at 
other neighbouring towns by the 
small tiled chimneys resembling 
miniature temple roofs, stuck on 
above the actual roofs of the houses. 
A spare J hr. at Sakurai may be 
spent in visiting the ancient Temple 
of Miwa, which stands high, sur- 
rounded by an antique grove. 
Though now a good deal neglected, 
the buildings still preserve traces of 
former stateliness. The temple is 
dedicated to the Shinto god Ona- 
muji, and the priests who minister 
at the altar are said to be descended 
from a son of that deity, named 
Otataneko. 

The following legend concerning this 
personage — a legend which also attempts 
to explain the etymology of the name 
Miwa— is translated literally from the 
Kojihi : _ 

The reason why this person called Ota- 
taneko was known to be the child of a god, 
was that the beauty of a maiden named 
Iku-tama-yori-bime seemed peerless in the 
world to a divine youth, who came sudden- 
ly to her in the middle of the night. So, as 
they loved each other and lived in matri- 
mony together, the maiden ere long became 
pregnant. Then the father and mother, 
astonished at their daughter being preg- 
nant, asked her, saying : <l Thou are preg- 
nant by thyself. How art thou with child 
without having known a man?" She re- 
plied, saying : "I have conceived through 
a beautiful young man, whose name I know 
not, coming here every evening and stay- 
ing with me." Therefore the father and 
mother, wishing to know who the man 
was, commanded their daughter, saying : 
" Sprinkle red earth in front of the couch, 
and pass a skein of hemp through a needle, 
and pierce therewith the skirt of his gar- 
ment." So she did as they had bidden, 
and on looking in the morning, the hemp 
that had been put in the needle went out 
through the hole of the door-hook, and 
all the hemp that remained was only three 
twists (Jap. mi tva). Then forthwith 



knowing how he had gone out by the 
hook-hole, they went on their quest fol- 
lowing the thread, which, reaching Mount 
Miwa, stopped at_the shrine of the god. 
So they knew that Otataneko was the child 
of the god who dwelt there. So the place 
was called by the name of Miwa, because 
of the three twists of hemp that had re- 
mained. 

The excellent and picturesque 
road from Sakurai to 

Base, anciently and still in litera- 
ture pronounced Hatsuse (Inns, 
Yoshino-ya, Idani-ya), leads up 
the r. bank of the Hasegawa. The 
valley suddenly narrows, and wooded 
hills close the road in on every side 
at the entrance of the little town, 
which owes its existence to the 
sanctity of the great Temple of Hase- 
dera, or Ghokokuji. This temple is 
No. 8 of the Thirty-three Holy 
Places. 

(The " Thirty-three Places "—Jap. 
Saikoku San-ju-san Sho — are thirty- 
three shrines sacred to Kwannon, 
the Goddess of Mercy, in the pro- 
vinces near Kyoto. They are all 
carefully numbered, the first being 
Fudaraku-ji at Nachi in Kishu, and 
the last Tanigumi-dera in Mino.* 



* The complete list is as follows : — 

! . Fudaraku-ji, at Nachi in Kishu. 

2. Kimii-dera, near Wakayama in 
Kishu. 

3. Kokawa-dera, in Kishu. 

4. Sefuku-ji, in Izumi. 

5. Fujii-dera, in Kawachi. 

6. Tsubosaka-dera, in Yamato. 

7. Oka-dera, in Yamato. 

8. Hase-dera, in Yamato. 

9. Nan-endo, at Nara in Yamato. 

10. Mimuroto-dera, at Uji in Yamashiro. 

11. Kami Daigo-dera, at Uji in Yama- 
shiro. _ 

12. Iwama-dera, in Omi. _ _ 

13. Ishiyama-dera,_near Otsu in Omi. 

14. Miidera, near Otsu in Omi. 

15. Ima-Gumano, at Kyoto in Yama- 
shiro. 

16. Kiyomizu-dera, at Kyoto. 

17. Rokubara-dera, at Kyoto. 

18. ftokkaku-do, at Kyoto. 

19. Kodo, at Kyoto. 

20. Yoshimine-dera, at Kyoto. 

21. Anoji, in Tarnba. 

22. Sojiji, in Settsu. 

23. Katsno-dera, in Settsu. 

24. Nakayama-dera., near Kobe in Settsu. 

25. Shin Kiyomizu-dera, in Harima. 

26. Hokkeji, in Harima. 

27. Shosha-san, in Harima. 



344 Route 42. — Through Yamato to Koya-san and Wakaynma. 



Legend traces the institution of these 
"Thirty-three Places" to Tokuda ShSnin, 
a famous Buddhist abbot of the 8th cen- 
tury. This holy man, having suddenly died, 
■was received by two emissaries of Emma- 
O (seep. 41), the God or Regent of the Un- 
derworld, and conducted to the latter' s iron 
castle that glitters with gold and silver 
and with pearls and every kind of precious 
stones. The god, himself resplendent as a 
jewel and beaming with smiles, received 
the dead abbot with distinguished atten- 
tion, and forthwith revealed to him the ex- 
istence of Three-and-thirty Places special- 
ly cared for by the Goddess of Mercy, Savi- 
our of the World (Guse Kwan-ze-on), who 
had thus divided herself into many bodies, 
wishing to succour each hum an being in the 
way bes" suited to his particular spiritual 
antecedents. But alas ! none yet knew of 
the existence of these shrines; so men 
went on doing evil rather than good, and 
kept falling into hell as plentifully as 
the raindrops fall in a furious summer 
shower, w T hereas a single pilgrimage to 
the Three-and-thirty Places would cause 
the pilgrim to radiate light from the soles 
of his feet, and give him strength to crush 
all the one hundred and thirty-six hells 
into fragments. " Should, peradven- 
ture, anyone that has accomplished 
the pilgrimage fall into hell," said Emma- 
O, " I, myself, will exchange with him, and 
suffer in his stead, as a teller of false tales. 
Here, therefore, is a list of the Three-and- 
thirty Places. Carry it back to the world 
of the living, and do the needful in the 
matter. It was for this purpose that I 
sent for thee hither." Tokudo thanked 
the Regent of the Underworld for his kind- 
ness, but remarked that mortals had 
grown sceptical in these latter days, and 
would ask for a sign to accredit his em- 
bassage. Thereupon Emma-0 gave him his 
own jewelled seal, and the abbot was led 
back by the same two attendants as be- 
fore to the sinful world. 

Now what had happened there was, that 
though he had lain as dead for three days 
and three nights, his body had not grown 
cold. His disciples therefore had refrain- 
ed from burying him, thinking that he 
might possibly be restored to life. When 
he did awake from the trance, there, 
grasped in his right hand, was the seal 
which the Recent of the Underworld had 
given him. Then he told his disciples all 
that had happened, and he and they 
started off on a round of the Three-and- 
thirty Fiaces, as the first pilgrims to 
those holy shrines; and as the oldest 



28. Nareai-ji, in Tango. 

29. Matsunoo-dera, in Wakasa. 

3u. Chikubu-shima, island in Lake Biwa 
in Omi. _ 

31. Chomeiji, in Omi. 

32. Kwannonji, in Omi. 

33. Tanigumi-dera, near Tarui in Mino. 



temple in Japan dedicated to the Merciful 
Goddess was that of Nakayama-dera in 
Settsu, which the Prince ^hotoku Taishi 
had built, they visited that first. There 
also did he leave the jewelled seal in a 
stone casket. 

So far the legend. It would 
seem that the pilgrimage fell 
into disuse after the time of the 
abbot Tokudo, and was only brought 
into permanent prominence more 
than two centuries later by the 
Emperor Kwazan, in obedience to a 
vision. This monarch, while him- 
self still but a mere stripling, lost 
his tenderly loved consort, and 
having abdicated in A.D. 986, 
became a monk, and made the 
pilgrimage round the Three-and- 
thirty Holy Places in the order 
which has ever since remained un- 
altered. In imitation of the origi- 
nal Thirty-three Holy Places, thirty- 
three other places have been esta- 
blished in Eastern Japan, and also 
in the district of Chichibu. 

Each of the Thirty-three Places 
has its pious legend, and also a 
special hymn (Go Eika) which the 
pilgrims chant several hundred 
times. Though consisting of but 
thirty-one syllables, as is the rule 
in Japanese poetical compositions, 
most of these hymns require con- 
siderable expansion to render them 
intelligible in English, owing to the 
plays upon words and the obscure 
conciseness affected by the com- 
posers. The Go Eika for Hase 
runs as follows : — 

Ilea tabi mo 

Maine Jcokoro tea 
Hatsuse-dera 

Yama mo chikai mo 

Fukaki tani-gawa 

which is interpreted to mean, "How- 
ever oft I make the pilgrimage 
to Hase's temple, my heart is as 
greatly touched as if each visit were 
the first ; for Kwannon's mercy is 
higher than the mountains, and 
deeper than the torrent-riven 
valley.") 

Founded early in the 8th century 
and last rebuilt about three centuries 
ago, Hase-dera is one of the most 






Temple of Hase. 



845 



striking temples in Japan. It is 
situated high up on the flank of a 
hill above the town, and stands half 
upon the rock, half upon a lofty 
platform built out from the rock, 
like Kiyomizu-dera at Kyoto. A 
long flight of steps in three zigzags, 
all roofed in, leads from the new- 
entrance gate at the end of the 
main street. On either side of the 
staircase are beds of peonies, beauti- 
ful to behold about the end of April, 
when they are in full bloom. The 
front part of the main building con- 
sists of an ex-voto hall 60 ft. long, in 
front of which is a platform built 
out on piles and commanding a view 
of the whole valley. A stone-paved 
corridor lined with lanterns runs 
between the ex-voto hall and the 
holy of holies, where is enshrined 
the enormous and far-famed gilt 
image of Kwannon, whose form 
may be obscurely perceived by the 
dim light of lanterns. On payment 
of a trifling fee to the attendant 
priest, permission can be obtained 
to enter this sanctum and stand 
at her very feet. The entrance is 
at the back, where, on either side 
of the door, will be remarked two 
little wheels used as charms where- 
by to foretell the future. The 
inquisitive pilgrim ties a wisp of 
paper to the wheel, which he then 
turns rapidly. If the paper wisp 
is at the bottom when the wheel 
stops, any desire he may have 
formed will come true. Just inside 
the door is a life-size image of 
Kwannon, standing in front of a 
large fresco of Shaka and the Five- 
and-twenty Bosatsu of Paradise. 
To its 1. is a gigantic mandara, 18 
ft. broad by 30 ft. high, represent- 
ing that half of the universe called 
by the Buddhists Taizo-kai. Both 
these paintings are attributed to 
Kobo Daishi, as is also a large kake- 
mono of the god Dainichi Nyorai 
hanging opposite to the mandara. 
Thus we pass round to the great 
image in front, which towers to a 
height of 26£ ft. On the 1. side of the 
sanctum, before emerging, is seen 



another mandara representing the 
half of the universe called Kongo-kai. 
The two mandara together contain 
figures of three hundred Buddhas. 
The Oku-no-in of this temple, in- 
stead of being higher up the same 
hill according to the usual custom, 
stands on a separate hill 4 cho dis- 
tant, and is scarcely worth a visit. 
The pagoda was destroyed by fire 
in 1883 ; but subscriptions are being 
raised to restore it. On the hill 
opposite is a temple to the Shinto 
god Tenjin. 

[From Hase a road leads to the 
'shrines of Ise ; see p. 245. It 
is much frequented by pilgrims, 
who combine the Yamato- 
meguri, as it is called, or Tour 
of the Holy Places of Yamato, 
with a pilgrimage to the temple 
of the Sun-Goddess.] 

The 4 miles back from Hase to 
Sakurai are speedily traversed in 
jinrikisha, the road being a slight 
descent the whole way. From 
Sakurai likewise on to Tonomine 
there is a jinrikisha road; but as 
it soon becomes steep and is rough 
in parts, good walkers are advised 
to go on foot. The whole way is 
picturesque. At Shimornura, about 
J hr. out of Sakurai, a fine granite 
torii marks the outermost limit of 
the sacred mountain, the actual 
Tonomine being the trifurcated 
summit seen ahead to the r. Many- 
hamlets are passed through. At 
that of Kurahashi, but a little off 
the road, is the Tumulus of Sujin 
Tenno, one of the Emperors of the 
legendary era (said to have died B.C. 
30 at the age of 120). 

During some fifteen years, the Japanese 
archaeologists hesitated between the con- 
flicting claims of several neighbouring 
spots. On the present site stood the little 
Shinto temple of the hamlet, — a fact which 
finally fixed their choice. The place was 
laid out after the orthodox pattern in 1891, 
the temple having been removed to the 
hill opposite. The present writers, who 
passed there while the work was in pro- 
gress, cannot say that anything much re- 
sembling an artificial mound, or indeed a 
mound of any sort, was discernible. 



846 Boute 42. — Through Yamato to Koya-san and Wakayama. 



At the upper end of a village 
called Yainai-chd, a covered bridge 
leads across into the grounds of 
the justly famed temple of 

Tonomine (locally pronounced 
Tdfiomune), the way being along 
an avenue of monumental cryp- 
tomerias. The magnificence of the 
timber, the purling of the brook 
below, the rich green everywhere, 
and the deep shade combine to make 
a scene at once impressive and de- 
lightful. Jinrikishas may go no 
further than the Ichi no Mon, or 
First Gate. 

This name does not indicate that there 
are many successive gates to be passed 
through. There is but one on the Yainai- 
cho side. The Ni no Mon, or Second 
Gate, is on the other side of the moun- 
tain, by which the traveller departs. 

The stone walls beyond it, serv- 
ing to keep some terraces in place, 
are all that remain of a large num- 
ber of priests' dwellings and minor 
temple buildings pulled down during 
the present reign. 

The temple of Tonomine, one of the 
most perfect specimens of Kyobu Shinto 
architecture, was raised in honour of a 
celebrated nobleman and statesman of the 
7th century, named Kam atari, who had 
two sons, Tankai and Joe. The latter it 
was who built the temple, bringing back 
with him from China, whither he had been 
sent to study, all the materials for the 
thirteen-storied pagoda, with the excep- 
tion of the top storey which proved to be 
more than his junk could hold. In those 
days, however, such mishaps were easily 
remedied, and the thirteenth storey flew 
after him across the sea in a cloud, and so 
completed the edifice. According to 
tradition, Kamatariandhis friends retired 
to this mountain to plan the assassination 
of Soga-no-Iruka, a nobleman who had 
ingratiated himself with the Empress 
Kogyoku, and formed the bold design of 
placing himself on the throne. Hence 
the name of Duma no Mine, or Conference 
Peak, the word Damn being afterwards 
corrupted to To. 

On arriving at the great red 
torii, we turn to the r. and ascend 
several steep flights of steps, to 
the r. of which is a fine grove of 
maples whose autumn tints are 
far-famed. Again turning to the 
r. at the top of the steps, we find 
ourselves at the Honsha, or main 



shrine, connected with an oratory 
in the somewhat unusual form of a 
gallery, which now wears the as- 
pect of an exhibition, as drums, 
arrows, the god's sacred car, and 
other temple " properties " are there 
laid out in rows. All the temple 
buildings are red and white, the 
main shrine being furthermore 
decorated with gold and green 
arabesques and geometrical designs, 
besides beautiful carvings of birds 
and elaborate metal fastenings. 

Round it is a paling (tainagaki), 
with storks and tortoises within 
groups of flowers. Green blinds 
hide the doorways, to each of which 
three polished mirrors are attach- 
ed. The side chapels are dedi- 
cated to Kamatari's two sons. Dra- 
gons in sepia on a gold ground 
adorn the lower crossbeams of the 
portico, and a beautifully executed 
pair of bronze lanterns bearing 
date 1755 stands in front of the 
chapel. The transverse panel in the 
verandah on its E. side has a white 
phoenix, while on the cor responding 
panel on the W. side is a peacock. 
The roof consists of thick shingling. 
As at Kasuga in Nara, a troupe of 
young girls and musicians is in 
readiness here to perform the kagura 
dance for a small fee. The other 
principal , object of interest is the 
small thirteen-storied, or more cor- 
rectly speaking thirteen -roofed,, 
pagoda. The grounds contain 
numerous other buildings, many of 
which are now left empty, as the 
Shinto cult has no use for them. 
One, seen on the way down and 
showing traces of elaborate decora- 
tion, is the burial-place of Kama- 
tari's wife. The two great festival 
days at Tonomine are the 16th April 
and 17th November. 

Close to the exit from the temple 
enclosure is an excellent inn called 
Hananaka-ya. A short but steep 
ascent leads up hence to the Ni 
no Mon, or Second Gate, where 
the temple grounds are quitted. 
From here it is a good £ hr. walk 
to Shikcn-jaya, a hamlet which 



Tonomine and Yoshlno. 



347 



belies the import of its name (lit. 
"four tea-houses") by having no 
tea-houses at all. It affords, how- 
ever, a fine view of the plain 
that stretches towards Nara. Begin- 
ning at the r., the mountains seen 
are: Tempo-zan, Futago-yama, 
Katsuragi-yama, Kongo-san ; next, 
but in the much further distance, 
Koya-san, and to its 1., that is to 
the south of the spectator, the sea 
of mountains covering southern Ya- 
mato. Close to the spectator is a 
tumulus called Uba-ga-mori, mark- 
ed by a clump of trees and the 
usual railing. Half the horizon — 
the N. and E. side — is unfortunate- 
ly shut out from view by the 
hilly nature of the foreground. 

From Shiken-jaya to the top 
of the Byuzai-toge is called a 
distance of 1 ri, but must be con- 
siderably less. The way lies most- 
ly through a delightful wood of 
cryptomerias and chamaecyparis 
trees; nor need the lover of timber 
fear that the bare streaks on some 
of the hillsides indicate impending 
deforestation. The Japanese plan 
is not to thin out timber gradually, 
as we do, but to shave whole hill- 
sides bare and then let them alone 
for many years, while others are 
similarly treated in rotation. This 
method saves trouble, as all the 
timber is simply rolled down to the 
bottom of the valley without encoun- 
tering any obstacle— if possible, 
to a stream where it is floated 
down, either in separate trunks, or 
where the breadth of the stream 
permits, in the form of rafts. 
The view from the Byuzai-toge, 
though pretty, is less extensive 
than that from Shiken-jaya. The 
way onward is downhill, with the 
exception of the short Yumihari- 
toge. Several hamlets are passed 
through before entering 

Kami-ichi (Inn, Tatami-ya), a 
fair-sized town on the r. bank of 
the Yoshino-gawa. The view up 
the river is pretty, and those to 
whom the classical literature of 
Japan is familiar will be interested 



to gaze on Imoyama, the conspicu- 
ous and thickly wooded hill about 
\ m. distant. 

The early erotic poets of Japan make 
constant mention of Imose-yama, which 
name is interpreted to mean Imo-yama 
and Se-y a ma, or "Mount Mistress" and 
" Mount Lover." The former of the two 
is here at Kami-ichi; but no "Mount 
Lover" can be found in actual geography 
to correspond with the orthodox inter- 
pretation. Yarious explanations have 
been proposed, come say that he has 
been separated from his mistress, and 
washed away down the river to Waka-no- 
ura in Kishu, while others go so far as to 
hint that, like the much-quoted Mrs. 
Harris, he never existed at all. 

We now cross the river to the 
town on the other side, called 
Iigai, the passage being effected 
by bridge in winter, by ferry in 
summer. 

A similar curious arrangement obtains 
at other places along the course of this 
river, the reason being that the summer 
floods often pour down with such resistless 
force as to sweep all before them. Of 
course the bridges erected for use during 
the dry season are not costly, and the 
planks are stowed away to do service 
again the following year. 

The temple buildings at Iigai, 
standing on a slight elevation and 
having a parapet in front, belong 
to the Monto sect of Buddhists. 
Proceeding a short way down the 
stream and then turning S., we 
enter the lower hills. Cherry-trees 
line the path and cover the hill- 
side for a considerable distance 
up to the entrance of the small 
town of 

YosllisiO (Inns, * Tatsumi-ya, 
Fukuchi-ya), which is built along 
the top of a narrow spur, and con- 
sists almost entirely of inns and of 
shops for the sale of articles at- 
tractive to pilgrims. 

[Yoshiuo may also be reached 
direct from Jimmu's Mauso- 
leum, via the Castle of Taka- 
tori, about 6 ri. Almost the 
whole distance can be accom- 
plished by jinrikisha.] 

Yoshino's usually sleepy aspect is 
exchanged for all the bustle of a 
camp during the week or ten days 



348 JRoute 42. — Through Yamato to Eoya-san and Walcayama. 



in late April when the cherry-trees 
are in flower. 

These trees, which, are supposed to 
number exactly a thousand, have for 
centuries been famous throughout Japan, 
and deserve to be famous throughout the 
world. There is no sight comparable to 
them for beauty when covered with deli- 
cate pale pink blossom, except perhaps 
the plum-trees of Tsukigase in the north 
of the same province. But the cherry- 
blossoms of Yoshino enjoy a far wider 
celebrity. Further up the mountain- 
side, beyond the town of Yoshino, is a 
second plantation of these beautiful 
trees. 

Half-way up the town are the 
remains of a huge bronze torii, built 
of broad rings 3 ft. in diameter. 
It was blown down by a typhoon in 
1888, but is to be set up again. It 
indicates the approach to Zo-o-do, 
one of the largest temples in Japan. 

Founded by Gyogi Bosatsu early in the 
8th century_as an offshoot of the temple 
raised on Omine by his master En-no- 
Shokaku, this temple has undergone many 
vicissitudes. The present buildings date, 
for the most part, from. 1591. Early in the 
present reign, they were taken fnra their 
Buddhist occupants, and handed over by 
the Government to the Shintoists ; but in 
1886 they were handed back from the 
Shintoists to the Buddhists, when the 
colossal statue of Zo-6 Gongen and the 
other temple properties were restored to 
their original places, though with a some- 
what diminished lustre. 

A large red two-storied gate and 
two flights of steps lead up into the 
court fronting the great temple hall. 
The pillars supporting this lofty 
building are huge trunks, lopped of 
their branches and roughly trim- 
med. Their gradually tapering 
form recalls the way in which the 
stone columns of Doric temples 
derived their shape from the primi- 
tive trunks which they replaced. 
One of the pillars is a gigantic 
azalea, at least 30 in._in diameter, 
brought from Mount Omine, where 
those shrubs frequently attain to 
an enormous size, though seldom 
reaching the bulk of this specimen. 
Ex-voto pictures of proportionate 
dimensions and great age adorn the 
walls of the portico. The huge image 
of Z6-6 Gongen carved by Gyogi Bo- 
satsu, standing behind the altar, is 



26 ft. high and of terrific aspect, and 
is flanked by statues scarcely less 
colossal (22 ft.) of Kwannon and 
Miroku. All three lift their r. foot 
to trample on the clouds, and the 1. 
to trample on the four great oceans. 
Their stern expression shows that 
their minds are bent on repressing 
the demons of which the universe 
is full. 

A little further on is Yoshijima 
Jinja, a small temple in which 
Yoshitsune and Benkei are said to 
have spent three years, and which 
later, in the 14th centuiy, served as 
the abode of the fugitive monarch 
Go-Daigo. Every tree, every stone 
in the enclosure has a name recall- 
ing some act of one or other of 
these three personages, — the tree to 
which Yoshitsune made fast his 
horse, the rock into which Benkei 
drove two iron nails to prove his 
strength after seven days of absti- 
nence, etc. The room which Go- 
Daigo used to occupy is still shown, 
as are various works of art. On 
the hill opposite is the temple of 
Nyoirinjiy where Go-Daigo lies 
buried. 

There are several minor temples, 
but Z6-6-do will probably be found 
sufficient by most travellers. Yo- 
shino is noted for its kuzu, a kind 
of starch, which is sold both in the 
pure state and also as a sweetmeat in 
the shape of cherry-blossoms, a real 
blossom of last season's blooming 
being enclosed in each daintily done 
up box. The starch, when properly 
made, is very palatable, and almost 
indistinguishable from American 
corn-starch. 

[Yoshino is the name, not 
only of a town, but of the 
surrounding extensive tract 
of wild mountainous country, 
to explore which it affords 
a convenient starting-point ; 
and neither the mountaineer 
nor the botanist will regret 
devoting some days to this ob- 
ject. The peaks vary from 
5,000 ft. to 6,000 ft. in height. 



High Mountains of Y amnio. 



349 



The names of the principal 
ones are Misen, Shaka-ga-take, 
Omine (locally pronounced 
Omwie), Inamura, and Shichi- 
men-zan. The narrow valleys 
intervening between their spurs 
support a scanty but industrious 
population, who, by terracing 
even the steepest hillsides, con- 
trive to raise sufficient barley 
for their subsistence. Yet 
a vast tract remains uninhabit- 
ed, and much of this is even 
untraversed. Boars and the 
goat-faced antelope abound, 
and a few deer and bears, with 
an occasional wolf, are also to 
be seen. The boars are so 
numerous, that throughout this 
region all cultivated plots have 
to be protected from their in- 
roads by strong stockades called 
shishi-gaki, and it is not un- 
usual to see a whole valley thus 
fenced in. The summits are 
almost without exception cloth- 
ed at high elevations with 
forests consisting chiefly of 
conifers, beeches, and oaks both 
evergreen and deciduous, mag- 
nolias, etc.; but the lower slopes 
are not infrequently covered 
with plantations of crypto- 
merias and chamsecyparis. 
There are also a few small 
copper-mines; but timber-cut- 
ting and timber-dressing form 
the chief employment of the 
peasant population. 

The ascent of Online, though 
not really dangerous, is so steep 
in parts that some bits have to 
be accomplished by means of 
ladders. The distance from 
Yoshino to the top is 6 ri, the 
expedition there and back occu- 
pying the whole of a long day. 
The summit is sacred to the 
Buddhist saint who first trod 
it, En-no-Shokaku, and there, 
in front of a temple erected in 
his honour, may be seen several 
fine bronze images, which re- 
present him equipped for a 
pilgrimage, with one-toothed 



clogs on his feet, and accom- 
panied by the faithful demons 
Zenki and Gold. The view is 
very fine, even the cone of Fuji 
being visible on a clear day, 
though not less than 180 miles 
distant. 

From the summit of Omine, 
the traveller who is equipped 
for mountain work and provid- 
ed with a sufficient supply of 
provisions and coolies, may 
make the ascent of Btiseil and 
Shaka-ga-take, descending to 
a place called Dorogawa at the 
foot of Omine, which, being 
resorted to by pilgrims bound 
for Koya-san, possesses several 
inns. The distance from Omine 
to Misen is probably not more 
than 18 to 20 m. ; but the path 
is difficult, constantly ascend- 
ing and descending, and pro- 
gress must inevitably be slow, 
owing to the necessity of carry- 
ing cooking utensils, sleeping 
quilts, and rice for the coolies. 
The whole of one day will be 
required to reach Misen, one 
more to Shaka-ga-take, and a 
third to Dorogawa. A water- 
vessel capable of containing a 
day's supply, and a sufficiency 
of warm clothing should be 
taken, as even in July the 
thermometer may sink to 50° 
Fahrenheit at night. From 
Dorogawa to Koya-san is a 
very long day's walk. Most 
of these mountains afford 
but little view, on account of 
the thick vegetation covering 
them ; but the botanist will be 
correspondingly rewarded.] 

On leaving Yoshino for Kxrya-san, 
a walk of 1 hr. offering a succes- 
sion of delightful views leads clown 
to the Yoshino-gawa, which is 
crossed at a point shortly below 
Kami-ichi, from a village called 
Saso on the 1. bank to one named 
Muda or Mutszcda (Inn, Hara-ya), 
on the r. The extremely sharp 
peak seen to the r.on the way down 



350 Boute 42. — Through Yamato to Koya-san and Wakayama. 



is the Takami-toge ..on the borders 
of the province of Ise. It is in- 
teresting to watch the rafts de- 
scending the river. Though very 
long, they glide easily among the 
shoals, under the management of 
skilful steersmen, because built in 
sections having a partly independent 
motion, like the carriages of a rail- 
way train. Jinrikishas can be 
taken the whole way from Muda to 
Kamuro. The road, which leads 
down the r. bank of the river, is 
excellent, and the scenery pleasant- 
ly rural, though not calling for 
special remark. It would show to 
better advantage if the traveller 
came from the opposite direction, 
as the higher mountains would 
then be in front instead of behind. 
Between the hamlets of Ada and 
Uno, the road diverges from the 
river to climb a gentle ascent called 
the Uno-toge. Of the high moun- 
tain mass visible from the Ada tea- 
house, the portion to _ the r. is 
Omine, that to the 1. Otenjo. At 
the hamlet of Sanzai, the road 
from Osaka joins in on the r., 
Kongo- san rising just beyond, in 
the near distance. 

Gojo (Inn, Omote-ya) is a fair- 
sized town with plenty of tea-houses, 
and a good place to halt for luncheon 
if the start from Yoshino has not 
been made early enough to admit 
of going straight through to Kamuro. 
After leaving Gojo the scenery 
improves, mountain masses coming 
forward to the 1. ; and the road 
passes over a gentle rise called the 
Matsuclii-toge, where the province 
of Yamato is quitted and that of 
Kishu entered. The river is joined 
again at 

Hashimoto (Inn, Take-ya), where 
one crosses to the 1. bank. The 
vill. of 

Kfuiiiiro (Inns, Kome-ya, Tama- 
ya) stands at the entrance of the 
side valley leading up to Koya-san, 
its raison d'etre being the accom- 
modation of pilgrims to that shrine. 
Bands of pilgrims may be found din- 
ing there at almost any time of day in 



spring, the fare provided being vege- 
tarian when they are on their way up 
as contrite sinners, but generously 
supplemented with fish and eggs — 
the Japanese substitutes for meat — 
when they are returning down- 
wards, pardoned and at peace with 
all the gods. The traveller will 
probably be told at Kamuro that 
the distance to Koya-san is only 
3 ri ; but the ri in this mountain 
district consists of 50 cho, which 
brings the distance up to 4 ri 6 cho 
of standard measurement, or 10J 
miles English. It must all be walk- 
ed or done by kago, and is a succes- 
sion of steep ups and downs, the 
former predominating ; but the eye 
is so charmed at every turn that 
fatigue is forgotten. Several villages 
are passed through, of which the 
best are Kane (Inn, Naka-ya) and 
Kamiya (Inn, Hana-ya). During 
the first half of the walk, beautiful 
glimpses are obtained from time 
to time of the Yoshino-gawa flowing 
far below. There is little or no 
shade, and the palmettos on the 
hillsides bear witness to the excep- 
tional warmth of the climate of 
this district. For the second half, 
the way leads up amidst magnifi- 
cent timber, chiefly conifers, which 
to behold and to enjoy whose deli- 
cious shade and fragrance, would of 
itself reward one for the expedition. 
Most of the finest specimens are 
chamsecyparis. Strangely enough, 
comparatively few examples are 
seen of the species to which Koya- 
san has given its name — the Koya- 
maki(Sciadopytis verticillata). This 
superb forest, which now belongs no 
longer to the priests but to the 
central Government, rings with the 
rhythmic chant of the coolies who 
laboriously bear down the timber 
from mountain recesses situated 
above the monastery. It is thus 
conveyed to Wakayama, the capital 
of the province, and thence shipped 
in junks to Tokyo. A bridge little 
worthy cf its high-sounding name, 
Gokuraku-bashi, that is, the Bridge 
of Paradise, marks the beginning of 



Monastery of Koya-san. 



351 



Koya-san proper, and of the last 
and steepest portion of the climb. 
The forest grows thicker and thicker, 
till at last we reach a plain black 
gate forming the back entrance 
{Fudo-zaka-guclii) to the temple 
grounds. The exceptionally fine 
bronze image of Jizo just outside 
•dates from the year 1745. It was 
the gift of a female devotee. The 
smaller but handsome bronze Kwan- 
non inside the gate to the 1. dates 
from 1852. From here it is but a 
few yards to the Sankei-nin Tori- 
sMrdbe-sho, or Office for the Exami- 
nation of Pilgrims, where the tra- 
veller will be asked whence he 
comes and at which temple he 
desires to lodge, and will then be 
furnished gratis with a guide to 
conduct him thither; or, if he have 
no preference and no letter of intro- 
duction, some lodging will be as- 
signed to him. This question of 
the lodging is important, as Koya- 
san has no inns. The temples do 
duty for them — or rather the priests' 
residences included in the Japanese 
term for a Buddhist temple (tera). 
Many are apt to be too full of pilgrims 
of the lower class to afford pleasant 
quarters. The most aristocratic are 
Shojo Shin-in possessing beautiful 
suites of rooms, Henjo Koin, Kongo 
Sammai-in, and J6ki-in. The people 
at Kamuro will probably endea- 
vour to persuade the traveller into 
patronising some inferior house 
with which they are in league. 
Of course the priestly hosts pro- 
vide no foreign food, neither does 
their fare include any fish, as all 
taking of life is prohibited by the 
strict Buddhist rule which governs 
the monastery. The foreigner, un- 
less he be a vegetarian, must there- 
fore come provided. The monks 
will not think of enquiring into 
what he may see fit to eat, 
neither is he expected to abstain 
from strong liquors. He should 
remember that they are monks, not 
innkeepers, and must refrain from 
ordering them about. There is no 
fixed charge for board and lodging ; 



but it behoves the visitor to be 
liberal, and to give at least as much 
as he would in a first-class inn. The 
service of the rooms is all done 
by young boys, no woman being 
admitted to any such employment. 
Indeed, it is only since the last re- 
volution that women have been per- 
mitted to make the pilgrimage at 
all. The pilgrims are wakened 
before dawn, and the traveller may, 
if he likes, assist at matins, which 
service is performed in a hall lined 
with thousands of funeral tablets, 
prayers being offered up for the 
souls of those whose names are in- 
scribed thereon. 

Kongbbuji — for that is the proper name 
of the monastery, Koya-san being only the 
name of the mountain on which it stands 
— is one of the oldest religious foundations 
in Japan. It dates from A.D. 816, having 
been then founded by the great saint, 
Kobo Daishi, to whom the Emperor Saga 
made a grant of land for the purpose. As 
Kobo Daishi was on his way up the moun- 
tain, he met Kariba Myojin, the Shinto 
god of the locality, who, being addicted to 
the chase, was accompanied by two dogs. 
This god promised his protection to the 
monastery, and in return for this the 
Shinto Temple of Nyu, dedicated to the 
mountain-god's mother, was afterwards 
built in one of the neighbouring valleys. 
This legend is the explanation given of 
the toleration of dogs on Koya-san, while 
no other animals are permitted to enter 
the precincts. Other prohibitions existed 
in former times against musical instru- 
ments, the planting of bamboos or trees 
that could be turned to profit, archery 
and football, gambling and checkers, bam- 
boo brooms, and three-pronged hay-forks. 
The principal mediaeval benefactors of the 
monastery were the Emperor Shirakawa 
and the Taiko Hideyoshi. The latter's 
nephew and adopted son Hidetsu<ni com- 
mitted harakiri here. Koya-san has ex- 
perienced no striking reverses, though, 
like all Buddhist monasteries, it has 
suffered to some extent from the recent 
disestablishment of Buddhism. Its 
greatest enemy has been fire. The con- 
flagrations of 1813 and 1S88 were the most 
disastrous during the present century. 
The great pagoda perished on the former 
occasion, and has never been rebuilt. On 
the latter, when the fire lasted for two 
days (11th— 12th February), large num- 
bers of the priests' dwellings were swept 
away, but fortunately no edifice of special 
importance. A treasure of which the 
monastery is justly proud is a collection 
of eight thousand scrolls of the Buddhist 
scriptures written in letters of gold and 



352 Route 42. — Through Yamato to Koya-san and Wakayama. 



elaborately ornamented with silver de- 
signs. These scrolls are valued at over 
half-a-million dollars. 

The sights of Koya-san take half 
a day to see. The first and most im- 
pressive is an enormous Cemetery, 
through which leads an avenue of 
cryptomerias 18 cho long ; or rather 
the cemetery is a kind of irregular 
avenue laid along a magnificent 
cryptomeria forest. Not indeed 
that most of the bodies are actually 
buried here. In many cases the so- 
called tomb is merely a monument 
raised to the memory of the dead 
believer, who, through this nominal 
burial by the side of Kobd Daishi, 
obtains the spiritual privilege of re- 
birth into the Tosotsu Heaven, or 
into Jodo, " the Pure Land of Per- 
fect Bliss." In other cases, after 
the corpse has been cremated, the 
Adam's apple and some of the teeth 
are sent to Koya-san, these remains 
being consigned to a common pit 
called Eotsu-do, or the Hall of Bones, 
in the case of persons who cannot 
go to the expense of a separate tomb. 
At all events, their funeral tablets 
are sent to the monastery to be 
prayed over daily. As one walks 
along the avenue, a special cicerone 
who has all the names by heart, 
points out the most important graves. 
After crossing the Ichi no Hashi, or 
First Bridge over the tiny Odogawa, 
the monuments of the Daimyos of 
Sendai, Uwajima, Kaga, and Satsu- 
rna are among those first passed. 
Such noblemen's monuments may 
be distinguished from those of com- 
moners b} 7 their peculiar pagoda 
shape (Jap. sotoba or gorin, see p. 
38). A little off the road to the r. 
are the graves of the celebrated 
heroes Atsumori and Kumagai Nao- 
zano, and then those of the Dai- 
myos of Hizen, Matsumae, and 
Choshu ; then — but we can only 
pick out a few names from among 
thousands — the early warrior Tada- 
no-Manju (this is the oldest monu- 
ment in the cemetery), the 16th 
century chieftain Takeda Shingen, 
the Hachisuka family, Ii-Kamon-no- 



Kami, the Daimyos of Tosa, the- 
traitor Akechi Mitsuhide whose 
monument has been split from top 
to bottom by a thunderbolt as a 
warning to faithless servants, and so 
on ad infinitum. In the cases of 
great families, many subsidiary 
monuments surround the chief one 
in the little enclosure, and before 
this often stands a torii, the stone 
for which, as for all the monuments, 
comes from a place in the province 
of Bizen called Mikage, a word that 
has come to be the Japanese name 
for ''granite." The monument of 
the Ichikawa Danjuro family of 
actors, just before reaching the 
Naka no Hashi, or Middle Bridge, is 
distinguished by a thin pillar. That 
with a prayer-wheel in front is de- 
dicated to Jizo, and is called the 
Ase-kaki Jizo, because believed to 
be covered every morning with the 
perspiration which that god's suffer- 
ings in hell for the good of the 
human race bring out on his body. 
The Daimyos of Geishu have the 
second largest monument in the 
cemetery, those of Suruga the 
largest of all, 28 ft. high. Next we 
come to that of the Imperial Prin- 
cess Sei-Kwan-in-no-Miya, to those 
of the celebrated poet Basho, of the 
saint Enko Daishi, of Asano Taku- 
mi-no-Kami (the unhappy lord of the 
Forty-seven Konins), etc., etc. We 
next arrive at a shrine containing 
one thousand gilt images of Amida, 
with another beside it having a 
statue of Kobo Daishi at the age of 
forty-two, carved by himself ; and 
after that another temple, with pic- 
tures (mandara) by the same saint 
of the two halves of the Buddhist 
universe (Kongo-kai and Taizo-kai). 
The next feature in the walk is af- 
forded by some bronze images of 
Jizo, Fudo, and Dainichi, placed be- 
hind a trough of water. Believers 
sprinkle this water over the images, 
in order to benefit the souls of their 
own ancestors. Immediately be- 
yond, is a small bridge called the 
Mnmyo no Hashi, or Nameless 
Bridge, a corruption of Mi myd no 



Great Cemetery. The Kondo Temple. 



353 



Hashi, or Bridge of the August 
Mausoleum. It is believed that no 
one can cross this bridge who, for 
moral reasons, is unacceptable to 
Kobo Daishi. 

There is a tradition that Hideyoshi 
made a pilgrimage hither after he had 
risen to the highest position in the Em- 
pire, and, accompanied by the high-priest 
alone, came at night as far as the bridge, 
crossed it, and tnrned back again without 
going as far as the tomb, thus satisfying 
himself that the slaughter he had been 
compelled to make of his enemies in order 
to seize the supreme power and restore 
peace to the nation, was approved by 
Kobo Daishi, and that he might now pay 
his formal visit on the morrow in full 
state, accompanied by all the princes, 
without fear of being put to shame before 
them. 

A separate enclosure to the 1. 
contains the unpretentious monu- 
ments of several Mikados. We next 
reach the Mandord, or Hall of Ten 
Thousand Lamps, but first look in 
at the octagonal Kotsu-do, or Hall 
of Bones already mentioned, and 
peer through the gate of the Go 
Byd, or Tomb of Kobo Daishi, 
which is never opened save on the 
21st day of the 3rd moon, old style, 
when new vestments are provided 
for the dead saint. We also per- 
ceive two small Shinto shrines just 
showing through the thick trees. 
The Mandord is a wooden building 
100 ft. long, and somewhat less 
than half that in depth, with closed 
grated shutters. As far as the eye 
can penetrate the darkness of the 
interior, countless brass lamps may 
be seen ranged in rows. Of these 
only about one hundred are kept 
lighted, the present reduced state 
of the monastery's exchequer not 
permitting expenditure on a more 
lavish scale. 

No offering can be more acceptable in 
the eyes of Buddhistic piety than burn- 
ing lamps, which typify the refulgent 
wisdom of the gods Dainichi and Amida. 
A story is told which recalls the Bible 
story of the widow's mite :— On some 
gTeat occasion a rich man presented ten 
thousand lamps, while a poor woman, 
who had nothing, cut off her long tresses 
to make up money enough to present a 
single lamp. Nevertheless her offering 



was the more acceptable of the two ; and 
when a gust of wind arose, the rich man's 
ten thousand lamps were all blown out, 
while the poor woman's single lamp shone 
on with increased brilliancy. According- 
ly the largest lamp in the hall is called 
the Hinja no Itto, or Poor Woman's 
Single Lamp. 

So far the Cemetery. The travel- 
ler now returns the way he came, 
and, after picking up his luggage 
at the temple where he spent the 
night, will see the rest of the sights 
on his way to the gate leading in 
the direction of Wakayama. 

Leaving the temple where we 
have lodged, we wend through the 
village, accompanied as before by 
our priestly guide, sad traces of the 
great fire of 1888 being visible all 
around. First we visit the Kongo- 
buji, or abbot's residence, an un- 
usually handsome specimen of 
Japanese domestic architecture, 
adorned with gold sliding screens 
by Kano Tan-yu, Sesshu, Tan- 
zan, and other classical artists. 
An old-fashioned arrangement to 
be seen here, as in others of the 
monks' residences, is what is called 
the irori no via, or " hearth room," 
which is an apartment having a 
large square chimney like a pillar 
and a small altar on one side. The 
monks sit round this heated pillar 
in winter to recite their scriptures. 
The room where Hidetsugu com- 
mitted harakiri after he had fallen 
into disgrace with his father, the 
great Taiko Hideyoshi, has been 
restored exactly in the style of his 
period (end of 16th century). 

We next proceed to the SJiichi-do 
Gar an, or temples proper, and pass- 
ing by several which are uninterest- 
ing, stop to examine the 

Kondd, or Golden Hall. Burnt in 
1843, but restored in 1852, this grand 
edifice fully deserves its name, for 
the interior is ablaze with gold and 
glorious colouring. Nor is it only 
beautiful. The keyaki wood, of 
which the huge beams and columns 
consist, proclaims its solidity ; and 
even the magnificent carvings 



354 Route 42. — Through Yamato to Koya-san and Wahayama. 



adorning the exterior are of the 
same material, some of the slabs 
being 9 ft. long by 4 ft. high. The 
plan of the building is three squares, 
one within the other. The outer- 
most of these squares is the un- 
coloured carved shell just mention- 
ed ; that next to it is the gejin or 
nave, while the innermost is the 
naijin or chancel ; and this it is that 
the artist has so splendidly decorated 
with gold, with paintings of angels 
and Buddhist deities, and with 
coloured carvings of birds. Images 
of the deities Kongo Satta, Fudo, 
Fugen, Kongo-6, Gozanze Myo-6, 
and Kokuzo Bosatsu stand on a 
raised dais, whose sides are filled in 
with the peony and lion in gilt open- 
work, while the ceiling above them 
glows with rich paintings of dragons 
having a phoenix in their midst. 
The shrine guarded by these images 
contains one of the god Yakushi 
carved by Kobo Daishi himself. 
The mandara hanging to the pillars 
represent, as usual, the two halves 
of the Buddhist universe. On leav- 
ing, notice the paintings of the 
Sixteen Ran an, which are about 9 
ft. sq. and executed in an extremely 
florid style. The holy men are 
painted in four groups, each of 
which contains four figures. 

In an adjacent building the 
gigantic gilt images of the Go-chi 
Nyorai, or Five Gods of Wisdom, 
formerly in the Pagoda, have now 
their temporary abode. The Saito, 
or Western Pagoda, is a two-storied 
building of a curiously complicated 
style of construction. Among other 
minor buildings, may be mentioned 
two small Shinto shrines dedicated 
to the aboriginal Japanese gods 
who ruled the mountain before 
Kobo Daishi's advent, — brilliantly 
painted with red ochre, and form- 
ing a striking contrast to the ad- 
jacent grey unpainted Buddhist 
shrines ; also the Kyodo, or Revolv- 
ing Library, elegantly constructed 
in the shape of a two-storied pagoda, 
and the Miei-do, containing a cele- 
brated portrait of Kobo Daishi 



painted by his disciple Prince Shin- 
nyo, the eyes of which were dotted 
in by the saint himself. 

Leaving the enclosure that holds 
all these buildings, we turn r. and 
see ahead the summit of Jin-ga- 
mine, 50 cho distant from the far- 
end of the great Cemetery, and 
affording — at least so the monks 
declare — a view over portions of no 
less than thirty provinces. To the 
1. is the Seminary (Gakurin), which 
is not usually visited, but which 
is excellently fitted up to accom- 
modate the 120 indoor students and 
200 outdoor students who resort to 
it for theological instruction. Some 
of the class-rooms are fitted up in 
European fashion with benches and 
black-boards, while others retain the 
old Japanese style — mats, a sort of 
dais for the lecturer, and a kakemo- 
no of Kobo Daishi at one end of the 
room. Each bedroom is shared by 
two or three students. Before 
meals, a long Buddhist grace is 
intoned. 

[Those whose limits of time do 
not permit of their going on to 
Wnkayama by the route about 
to be described, may reach Sa- 
kai and Osaka more expedi- 
tiously from Koya-san by re- 
tracing their steps down the 
mountain to Kamuro, and then 
crossing the Kiimi-toge. The 
itinerary is 

KOYA-SAN to:— Ri. Cho. M. 
Back to Kamuro 

(about) 4 6 10J 

Hashimoto .... 1 — 2£ 

Top of Kiimi-toge 2 2 5 

Mikkaichi 2 21 6£ 

Fukumachi 3 7 7f 

SAKAI 3 21 8f 

Total 16 21 40J 

The whole way from Kamuro 
to Sakai can be done in jinriki- 
shas, and most of it is pictur- 
esque. One must walk up a 
portion of the Kiimi-toge, which 



Ways back from Koya-san. Kokawa-dera. 



355 



affords fine views of the moun- 
tains of Kishu to the r., and 
Yamato to the 1. 

Mikkaichi (Inn, Abura-ya), 
like most other towns in the 
neighbourhood of Koya-san, 
lives on the. pilgrims to that 
holy shrine, and is the usual 
halting-place for the night. 
Prom here on for some miles 
there is a succession of hills, 
none however so steep as to 
necessitate alighting from a 
jinrikisha with two good coolies. 
At the hamlet of Yamamoto, 
the plain of Izumi is seen 
stretching away at the specta- 
tor's feet, and soon he enters 

Flikliniiiclli (Inn, Shiba-ya), 
which is a better place for 
those who seek quiet and at- 
tention to stay at than Mik- 
kaichi, because less apt to be 
iull of pilgrims. From there 
the road leads along the broad 
fertile plain to 

Sakai (seep. 296).] 

The inspection of the Koya-san 
Seminary concluded, we retrace our 
steps a little, and soon reach what 
is called the front gate (omote-mon) 
of the monastery grounds, a hand- 
some structure decorated with 
carvings by Hidari Jingoro, which 
leads in the direction of Waka- 
yama ; for the Kamuro way by 
which we came, and which is now 
the more frequented of the two, is 
officially termed the back way (ura- 
guchi). Kobo Daishi came up from 
the Kishu or Wakayama side, — a 
tradition whose details are com- 
memorated in several monuments 
which we successively pass on our 
walk down. The scenery is pictur- 
esque the whole way. It is neces- 
sary to walk at least as far as the 
hamlet of Shiga, a distance of over 
4 ri from Koya-san. If jinrikishas 
cannot be obtained here, some may 
perhaps be found at one of the 
hamlets further on ; but they cannot 
be counted on till reaching the busy 
little town of 



Kokawa (Inn, *Kana-ya), where 
we find ourselves in the broad valley 
of the Kinokawa (or Kiigawa), and 
on the high road to Wakayama. 
Kokawa-dcra, the great Buddhist 
temple of this place, No. 3 of the 
Thirty-three Holy Places, is an an- 
cient and celebrated shrine, founded 
in A.D. 770. As usual in this land 
of wooden buildings, fire has more 
than once done its destructive 
work, and the present edifices date 
only from the 17th century. 
The principal gateway contains fine 
statues of the Ni-6, colossal in size 
and excellently preserved. A little 
further on is a building, called 
Ddnan San no Do, curiously decor- 
ated with open-work wood carvings 
nailed on to the panels of the front 
and sides, and representing inci- 
dents in the history of an image of 
Kwannon shaped like a young boy, 
which is declared by tradition to 
have emerged miraculously from 
the pond close by. Several hand- 
some bronzes and a stone with the 
impression of Buddha's feet next 
attract our attention. Passing 
through the second gateway with 
its images of the Shi-Tenno, we 
enter a picturesque garden, contain- 
ing some magnificent old camphor- 
trees ; one, in particular, would take 
seven men to encircle it with out- 
stretched arms. The cherry-blos- 
soms, too, are very fine. The Hondo 
is a plain building 17 ken (about 
102 ft.) square, whose outside gallery- 
is all hung with modern inscribed 
tablets. The images of the Twenty- 
eight Followers of Kwannon, r. and 
1. of the main altar, whose shrine is 
never opened, are excellent ancient 
works of art. On a terrace at the 
back stand two brightly decorated 
chapels dedicated to the Shinto 
gods of Nyu and Nyaku-ichi, the ab- 
original guardian deities of the place. 
The monastery is rich in miscel- 
laneous treasures and manuscripts, 
to see which, however, requires a 
special introduction. An unusually 
large Gyogi-yaki jar (see p. 55) is the 
only curiosity shown to all-comers. 



356 Route 42.- — Through Yamato to Koya-san and Wakayama. 



The traveller, who now emerges 
from the mountains into the civili- 
sation of the plain, will be struck 
with the variety of quaint and beauti- 
ful tiles at the corners of the roofs 
of the houses. Some are shaped 
like demons' heads, some like 
shells, some like flowers, etc. Alto- 
gether, Central Japan surpasses 
Eastern Japan in this respect. The 
whole way into Wakayama from 
Kokawa lies down the smiling 
valley of the Kinokawa, with its 
screen of hills on either side. Notice 
the lines of haze or tallow-trees 
(Rhus snccedanea) , from whose sap 
are made the candles for which 
this province is famous. When 
November cornes, the leaf of this 
tree almost vies in beauty with that 
of the maple, so brilliant are its 
hectic hues. The river is crossed 
by a long bridge joining Iivade (Inn, 
Izuyo) on the r. bank with its 
suburb of Funato on the 1. bank. 
[Those interested in temples are 
advised to go 1 ri out of their 
way to view the now nearly 
deserted, but still stately, re- 
mains of the monastery of 
Negoro-ji, a branch of Koya-san 
dedicated to Fudo, the monks 
of which waged successful war 
against Nobunaga in the 16th 
century. It must have been 
one of the most extensive reli- 
gious establishments in Japan, 
and a perfect example of the 
Shichi-do Garan. The various 
temples and priests' houses ex- 
tended over two hillsides, and 
the architecture of what re- 
mains has an impressive and 
characteristic cachet. The im- 
mense park-like grounds are full 
of lovely cherry-trees and pine- 
trees, the former a brilliant 
sight in April.] 

Wakayama (Inn, Fuji-gen) 

This large but quiet place, now the capi- 
tal of the Prefecture of Wakayama, was 
formerly the castle-town of the Princes of 
Kishu, who were descended from the 
eighth son of the Shogun Ieyasu, and 
endowed with a fief of 555,000 koku. The 



family held very exalted rank, being one 
of the three distinguished by the title of 
Go San-he (see p. 271). Its domain includ- 
ed the whole province of Kishu, together 
with that of Ise as far N. as Matsuzaka. 
Wakayama has little trade, the only 
manufacture worth mention being a cotton 
material called men-far anneru, which sim- 
ulates the appearance of flannel, and is 
widely used among the lower classes, not 
only of Japan, but of China and Korea. A 
certain amount of timber, floated down 
the Kinokawa, is also exported. 

possesses three great attractions, — 
the Castle of its former lords, the 
fcemple of Kimii-dera, and the 
scenery of Waka-no-ura. All three 
lie in the same direction, — south 
from the inn, — and can be " done " 
in a single afternoon, though the 
pleasanter plan is to devote a whole 
day to loitering about the beautiful 
neighbourhood of Kimii-dera and 
Waka-no-ura. A request for per- 
mission to visit the Castle should 
be made through the innkeeper to 
the prefectural authorities. 

The Castle of Wakayama is pro- 
bably the most perfect extant speci- 
men of that style of architecture 
in Japan ; for though strictly an- 
cien regime, it dates only from about 
1850, just before that regime began 
to totter, and even the sword and 
spear-racks in the lower storey 
are still intact, the wood looking 
as new as if only put in place yes- 
terday. The building, which is 
three-storied, crowns a densely 
wooded hill, and exhibits the pecu- 
liarity that part of its fortifications 
rise directly from the neighbouring 
roadway, without being protected 
by a moat. The panorama from 
the top includes: — W., the mouth of 
the Kinokawa and the sea ; S., in the 
distance, the mountains of Arida, 
the land of oranges ; E., other nearer 
mountains of which Eyumon-zan is 
the highest, the fertile valley of the 
Kinokawa studded with villages, 
the mountains about Koya-san, then 
Kongo-san and the other mountains 
of Yamato; N.E., the Katsuragi 
range which shuts in the valley at 
no great distance, the lowest point 
being the Onoyama-toge leading 



Kiiiui' dera . Waha-no-ura . 



357 



overtoSakai; and N.W. the promon- 
tory of Kada which almost seems 
to' touch the island of Awaji, to 
whose 1. the mountains of Awa in 
Shikoku are visible in the blue dis- 
tance. At one's feet, on all sides 
except the S., is the town. On that 
side there is emptiness, because 
the dwellings of the' samurai, which 
formerly stood there, have been 
demolished and the sites turned into 
fields, — an eloquent, though mute, 
witness to the political change that 
has transformed Japanese society. 

Kimii-dera lies 1 ri 25 did S. of 
Wakayama by a good jinrikisha 
road. It is No. 2 of the Thirty-three 
•Holy Places, belongs to the Shingon 
sect, and is said to have been found- 
ed in A.D. 770 by a Chinese mis- 
sionary named I-kwan, though the 
present Hondo is only some two and 
a half centuries old. 

According to legend, the reason for build- 
ing the temple in this particular spot was 
the discovery here, under a tree, of a 
miraculous image of the Eleven-faced 
Kwannon. now enshrined in a large reli- 
quary behind the main altar. As this 
image was far too sacred to be exposed to 
public gaze, I-kwan carved another, of 
the Thousand-handed Kwannon, for the 
adoration of the common herd. This 
stands in a recess to the r. of the reli- 
quary just mentioned. The chief fes- 
tivals are celebrated on the 18th March 
and 9th July. 

Though Kimii-dera is doubtless 
a fine temple finely situated, its 
chiefly glory is its view, — not a very 
extensive one, but absolutely lovely 
and characteristically Japanese. 
The spectator himself, from the 
temple court or the priests' beauti- 
ful reception rooms, stands just at 
the height above the view that an 
artist would choose; and he looks 
out W. towards the sea over a scene 
recalling that from Nokendo near 
Yokohama, or from Tesshuji over 
Mio-no-Matsubara, — a delicious la- 
byrinth of land and water, of which 
the principal feature is the ex- 
tremely narrow strip of land, more 
than a mile long called 

Waka-no-iira. 

A sandy peninsula, narrow and fan- 
tastically overgrown with pines, enclos- 



ing a little bay, and having islands or 
hills near to it, is tlie Japanese beau idealof 
scenery, their taste being not for savage, 
Alpine, overpowering grandeur, but 
for the esthetic, the soft, the well-pro- 
portioned in form and line, — the civilis- 
ed, if one may so express it. Poets have 
sung the beauty of this spot ever since 
Japan has had a literature. The follow- 
ing stanza of Akahito (see p. 53) is fami- 
liar to every Japanese adult : — 

Waha-no-ura ni 

Shio michi-kureba 
Kata wo nwmi 

Ashibe too sashite 

Tazu ?iaJci-tcatant 

that is, rendered literally, 

" Ou the shore of Waka 
When the tide comes flowing in, 
There being no dry land, 
Towards the reedy place 
The storks fly across crying." 

The reeds of a thousand years ago are 
commemorated chiefly in the name of an. 
excellent restaurant, the Ashibe-ya ; there 
are now few, if any, storks left, for the 
law which protected them as sacred birds 
lapsed when feudalism fell ; and most of 
the pine-trees on the peninsula were 
hewn down when they, too, ceased to be 
protected by immemorial custom. The 
peasants took it into their heads that the 
shade of the pine-trees was injurious to 
the fields behind. Now, however, the same 
peasants would give much to have the 
trees back again, as the salt sea spray, 
which they warded off, now blasts the 
crops. 

While the traveller has been see- 
ing Kimii-dera, his guide or jin- 
rikisha-man should have been in- 
structed to engage a boat, in which 
— jinrikisha included — the party 
will cross the shallow inlet to Waka- 
no-ura, a distance of 18 cho to the 
hill called Seyama or Imose-yama 
(comp. p. 347) at the root 
of the little peninsula. Kimii-dera 
looks grandly fortress-like as one 
recedes from it, and the views are 
charming all the way across. To 
take the air in this manner is a 
favourite pastime of the citizens of 
Wakayama on summer evenings, 
and Waka-no-ura has inns and tea- 
houses where the cravings of the 
inner man may be satisfied. What 
one chiefly goes out to see is a 
group of little hills, whose curious 
rocks and fantastic pine-trees {saga- 



358 Route 42. — Through Yamato to Koya-san and Wakayama. 



ri-matsa) form a natural landscape 
garden, of which piety has availed 
itself to erect a pagoda and several 
shrines. 

The rock is called Kishu- ishi by the 
Japanese, to whom its beautiful slate- 
like appearance recommends it for use in 
the gardens of the wealthy. 

The names of the principal meisho 
visited at Waka-no-ura are Ashibe- 
no-ura, Imose-yama, Shiogama, 
Tamatsu-sbima, Tengu-yama, the 
hamlet of Dejima, and Gougen- 
yama. It is worth mounting Ten- 
gu-yama for the sake of the view. 
That from Gongen-yama is also 
much admired. 

On the way back to Wakayama 
by jinrikisha, one passes the Shinto 
Temple of Akiha-zan, a branch of 
the shrine described on p. 270. 
The Wakayama Akiha-zan is fa- 
mous for its maple-trees, and for a 
Buddhist temple dedicated to the 
Five Hundred Rakan. 

A walk or jinrikisha ride along the 
coast S. from Wakayama, giving 
lovely views, is that to Shiotsu on the 
way to Kumano (see next Route), or 
to the Fude-siite-matsu near Fuji- 
shiro on the way to Shiotsu. One 
may also devote half a day to visit- 
ing the Temple of Kada, N.W. of 
Wakayama, for which women have 
a special devotion. It is 3J ri dis- 
tant along a jinrikisha road. 

Steamers leave Wakayama daily 
for Osaka, calling in at Kada. There 
is also constant steam communica- 
tion between Wakayama and Ta- 
nabe, Kushimoto, and other little 
ports in the Kishu-Ise peninsula, 
ending up at Yokkaichi. 

[Instead of taking the shorter 
inland road to Sakai given in 
the Itinerary prefixed to this 
Route, and about to be briefly 
described, the traveller might 
take Kada on his way to Sakai, 
following the coast the whole 
way. The distances are as fol- 
lows: 



WAKAYAMA to :— 

Ri. Clio. M. 

Kada 3 23 9 

Tannowa (about) 3 — 1\ 

Ozaki 2 1 5 

Sbindachi .... 1 13 3J 

Sano 1 28 4£ 

Kaizuka 1 18 3f 

SAKAI 4 34 12 

Total 18 9 44 J] 



The 14 J ri in from Wakayama to 
Sakai are by an excellent jinrikisha 
road, the Kishu Kaido, which leads 
first, for a short way, up the valley 
of the Kinokawa, and then turns l. r 
that is N., through the vill. of Yama- 
guchi and over a stiffish hill called 
the Onoyama-toge, separating the 
provinces of Kishu and Izumi. The 
road crosses into Izumi at a little 
stream appropriately named the Sa- 
kai-gawa, in the immediate vicinity 
of which are some mineral springs. 
As one bowls along down the other 
side of the hill, through Yamanaka 
and Shindachi, delightful views are 
obtained of the Bay of Osaka with 
its strip of splendidly fertile coast 
which the road approaches ever 
more and more closely, and of Rok- 
ko-zan beyond. They remind one 
of the landscapes which Hiroshige 
loved to depict. At Takojaya (good 
Jap. food always ready) the coast 
road from Kada joins in 1. 

Kill z si k a (Inn, Wakamatsu-ya); 
and Kisliiwada form together one 
large but rather squalid town. The 
Kai-hin-in, situated in a fine old 
pine-grove on the site of the once 
famous temple of Hama-dera, is 
a restaurant with sea-baths fre- 
quented in summer by the Sakai 
folk. About 50 clio further on, we 
reach the town of 

Sakai (see p. 296). From here- 
the train will take us in 20 min. to- 
Osaka. 



Route 43. — Through Kumano to Ise. 



359 



ROUTE 48. 

Through Kumano to Ise. 
west coast of kishu. temples of 
hongu and shingu. rapids of 
the kumano -gawa and kita- 
yama-gawa. doro hatcho. falls 
of nachi. east coast of kishu. 
rapids of the miyagawa. 

This rough, but delightfully pic- 
turesque, route is recommended only 
to those whom considerable ex- 
perience has inured to Japanese 
country ways. It might well be 
combined with the preceding route 
and Route 32. The ftsies'o part 
of it is from Tanabe onwards, the 
interior of Kishu and the E. coast 
being on the whole more picturesque 
than the W. coast. The best time 
for the trip is spring or late autumn, 
the climate of Kishu being excep- 
tionally mild, owing partly to the 
mountains of Yamato which ward 
off northern blasts, partly to the 
Kuroshio, or Japanese Gulf-Stream. 

Kumano is practically another name for 
the province of Kii or Kishu, fche W". 
part being Kuchi-Gumano, i.e. "front 
Kumano," and the E. part Oku- 
Gumano, or "far Kumano." The two 
together include Ku-ju-ku Ura, i.e. 
"ninety -nine stretches of shore." But the 
name Kumano is used with peculiar re- 
ference to the Tnree Holy Places {Mi- 
Gumano or Kumano San-zan) of that pro- 
vince, namely, Hongu, Shingu, and Nachi, 
the origin of which carries us back past 
history proper into the legendary age. 
Hongu, lit. "the original temple," (or 
"palace") is said to have been founded 
in the reign _of Sujin Tenno (1st century 
B.C.); Shingu, or "the new temple," in 
the reign of Keiko Tenno (A.D. 71—130), 
the former being some way up the Kuma- 
no-gawa, the latter at the mouth of the 
same river. Whether fear of the destruc- 
tive floods for which this river is notorious, 
had anything to do with the location of 
the shrines in these particular spots — 
spots both of them specially likely to 
suffer, and therefore standing in unusual 
need of supernatural protection — is a 
matter for surmise. Be this as it may, 
the aboriginal Shinto tutelary deities were 
early adopted by the Buddhists as avatars 
of Indian gods, under the title of Kumano 
Gongen (conf, p. 35); and all through the 
Middle Ages the threefold shrines of 
these Gongen were among the most po- 



pular in Japan, and among the most re- 
presentative of the Ryobu Shinto style. 
The Emperor Go-Shirakawa is said to 
have made no less than thirty-four pil- 
grimages to them, or at least to Hongu. 
About the beginning of the present cen- 
tury, when the influence of the Pure 
Shinto school had begun to make itself 
strongly felt, many changes were effected 
both in the buildings themselves and in the 
lists of gods therein worshipped. Hongu 
and Shingu are now altogether in Shinto 
hands. Nachi, besides its Shinto shrine, 
possesses a very famous Buddhist one. 
A curious and inexplicable circumstance 
connected with the Kumano shrines is 
the special reverence manifested towards 
them by the people of the extreme North 
of Japan, who supply a very large percent- 
age of the pi grims, and are locally nick- 
named Kwanto-bei, that is, "eastern 
bumpkins." 



Itinerary. 

WAKAYAMA to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Kimii-dera 1 25 4J 

Kuroe 

Shiotsu 2 

Minoshima 2 

YUASA 2 

GOBO .. 5 11 

Inami 3 2 

Minabe 3 9 

TANABE 2 

Misu 2 

Kurisngawa 2 

Chikatsuyu 3 

Nonaka 

Ose 2 

YUNOMINE .... 2 

HONGU 

Miyai (by boat) 

about 4 8 10J 

Tado ( by boat ) 

about 4 18 11 

Back to Miyai (by 

boat) about 4 18 11 

SHINGU (by boat) 

about 5 

Miwazaki 1 

Hamanomiya .... 2 

NACHI 1 

Back to Hamano- 



32 

26 
35 



10 

18 
9 
29 
31 
18 
25 



2* 
5 

n 



8 

64 

5 

6 
8 
2 
7 
6 
If 



miya . . . 
KATSURA 



25 
12 
32 

32 
23 



12£ 

4i 



Total 65 16 160 



Thence by steamer to Kiuomoto, 
Nigishima, Owase, and Nagashima, 



360 



Route 43. — Through Kumano to he: 



whence partly by land, partly 
by river to Yamada, as shown 
later on in the text. Some of 
the distances are approximate, 
though every possible care has 
been taken to make them cor- 
rect. A constant cause of change 
and perplexity is introduced by the 
construction of new roads (shindo), 
not infrequently followed by the dis- 
use of the same owing to floods or 
to paucity of traffic. The pedestrian 
will in any case gain by adherence 
to the old road whenever a choice 
exists. In some parts, new mea- 
surements of the chief highways are 
in progress. 

We leave Wakayama by what, as 
a tribute to popular piety, is still 
called the Kumano Kaido. Jinriki- 
shas are practicable — with an oc- 
casional walk over a hill — all the 
way to Tanabe and Misu. Passing 
below Kimii-dera (see p. 357), and 
Kuroe famous for its cheap lac- 
quered trays and bowls, we skirt a 
lovely shore to 

Shiotsin, a vill. on the first of 
those little landlocked bays — 
secluded paradises — that gem the 
coast of Kishu and of Shima. The 
sea and the dainty little sandy 
beach, and the view back over 
Wakayama and the valley of the 
Kinokawa and across to Awaji and 
Awa in Shikoku, combine to form a 
delicious picture. 

[Pedestrians can save time and 
distance, and command still 
finer views, by diverging 1. over 
the Fujishiro-saka before reach- 
ing Shiotsu, between the ham- 
lets of Hikata and ShimizuJ] 

Before passing Miioshima, we 

cross the shallow Arida-gawa near 
its mouth, and follow up its 1. bank 
for some miles along an embank- 
ment, between rows of vegetable 
wax-trees (haze), the characteristic 
tree of all this country-side. We are 
now in the district of Arida, famed 
as the greatest orange-producing 
centre in Japan ; and as we proceed, 
we find all the lower slopes of the 



wide sheltered valleys covered with 
orange groves. 

The cultivation of the orange, first in- 
troduced into this district towards the 
close of the 16th century from Yatsushiro 
in Kyushu, succeeded so admirably_that, 
before fifty years had elapsed, not Osaka 
and Kyoto only, but Yedo looked to Arida 
for their choicest supplies. Forty varieties 
of the orange tribe are enumerated in 
Japan, the best-known being the mikan 
proper, or mandarin orange (of which the 
unshu variety is the most prized), the kdji, 
the Jcunemjbo (a thick-skinned variety), 
the fachibana, the daidai or Seville orange, 
and the diminutive lunkan or cumquat. 
Most Japanese oranges are produced on 
large umbrageous bushes, only the daidai 
growing on a real tree. The orange is 
usually grafted on a citron or on a kara- 
tachi ( Citrus trifoliata) stock. It is the finest 
fruit produced in Japan, — a Lmd where 
fruits are few and poor, — and it figures 
largely in the Japanese New Year decora- 
tions. A fortunate speculation in oranges 
was the foundation of the fortune of the 
eccentric 18th century millionnaire, Kino- 
kuni-ya Bunzaemon. 

Yiiasil (Inn, Edo-ya) is a dull 
town, noted for its manufacture of 
soy. From here to Gobo there is a 
choice of roads. The new road, 
practicable for jinrikishas through- 
out, passes through Yura, 4 ri 14 
olio, whence the distance is 3 ri 6 
cho more, or 7 ri 20 cho (18£ m.) in 
all ; but it is rarely taken, the old 
5 ri 11 cho road, given in our Iti- 
nerary, being so much shorter, and 
all of it, too, practicable for jin- 
rikishas except the Shishigase-toge, 
a steep hill 32 cho long. Spare 
coolies can be hired at the bottom of 
this hill to help to push empty jin- 
rikishas up, and to shoulder the 
luggage. The two roads diverge 
from each other 26 cho beyond 
Yuasa. The top of the hill offers 
little view. 

[Before he reaches Gobo, a detour 
of about 1 ri will take the 
traveller interested in ancient 
Japanese lore to the Temple of 
Dojoji, a building which partly 
dates from the 8th century. 

Its name has become a house- 
hold word throughout the land, on 
account of the legend of the hap- 
less loves of the monk An chin and 
the maiden Kiyohime. Forbidden 



West Coast cind Interior of Kishu. 



361 



by his vows as a priest from making 
good his vows as a lover, he fled to 
this place, and hid beneath the 
great temple bell. She, transformed 
by the power of rage and disappoint- 
ment into a hnge dragon, pursued 
him, and, lashing the bell with her 
dragon tail, made it so fiery hot that 
the poor monk was scorched to death 
inside. This was in the year 928. 
The great bell of Dojoji is a favourite 
subject of Japanese art ; and both the 
classical No theatre and the ordinary 
Shibai stage have pieces founded on 
the legend, decked out of course with 
many picturesque additions.] 

Gfobo (Inn, Kishi-riki). The road 
follows the coast from here, gene- 
rally on a cliff overlooking the sea, 
and crosses several hills. The finest 
view is that from the top of the hill 
passed soon after leaving 

Milinbe {Inn, Mori-tsune), where 
one catches the first glimpse of the 
charming Bay of Tanabe, with its 
Megane-iwa, — a rock resembling a 
pair of spectacles, with holes for the 
glasses, — its semi-sunken reefs, and 
the long promontories of Sefco-zaki 
and Kanayama-zaki. The aspect of 
all this coast is sub-tropical, chiefly 
owing to the quantities of shuro 
(palmettos) and sotetsu. Immense 
quantities of potatoes are also 
grown. 

The traveller will be struck all over 
this Kumano route with the absence of 
horses. Scarcely a horse is to be seen 
in the whole country-side. Bulls and 
cows are used instead for agricultural 
purposes, the Japanese bull being so much 
milder a beast than his European counter- 
part that the use of oxen has not sug- 
gested itself. The cows are free for hard 
labour, because their milk is not in de- 
mand, all but the completely Buropeanis- 
ed Japanese having a horror of that to us 
essential article of food. 

Tanabe (Inns, Gomei-ro, Kyo- 
hachi), formerly the castle-town of 
the Ando family, who were Karo 
(hereditary councillors) of the 
princes of Kishu, is much frequent- 
ed by pilgrims to the Three Shrines 
of Kumano and to the Thirty-three 
Places of Kwannon. The temple of 
,S6doji, in the neighbourhood, pos- 
sesses a number of _works by the 
celebrated painter Okyo and his 
pupil Rosetsu. 



A pleasant excursion from Tanabe 
by boat is across the bay to the hot 
springs of YuzaM {Inn, Sakai-ya) 
on the strand. There is a fine view 
from Koshin-yama, above the baths. 

Tanabe is the end of the first 
division of this route, as we here 
leave the coast, and turn inland to 
cross mountain ranges and to shoot 
the rapids of rivers. We also here, 
or at 

Misn 9 2 ri further on, bid fare- 
well for some time to jinrikishas, 
unless the new road to Kurisugawa 
happen to be in exceptionally good 
repair. In any case, the old road 
is about half the distance of the 
new — 2J ri from Misu to Kurisu- 
gawa, instead of 5 ri. The walk is 
steep but. pretty, and near the sum- 
mit, which is called Imori-toge, a 
fine panorama opens out of numer- 
ous ranges, with Tanabe Bay and 
the sea beyond. The scar on the 
side of Takao-zan dates from the 
great floods of 1889. 

Throughout Kishu and southern Ya- 
mato, the inhabitants never tire of refer- 
ring to these disastrous floods (Meiji ni- 
ju-ni-nsn no suinan), which were indeed a 
national calamity second only, if second, to 
the great Gifu earthquake of 1891. Always 
liable to thesw visitations, Japan seems to 
have drawn them down on herself with, 
increased violence by a sudden zeal for 
the spread of cultivation in remote moun- 
tain districts, and by consequent partial 
deforestation. The valley of the Totsu- 
gawa — called Kumano-gawa lower down 
—suffered worst of all, over 2,000 persons 
being washed away and incalculable des- 
truction being done to property. 

Kurisugawa (poor accommoda- 
tion) lies in a valley on the bank of 
a stream. Leaving it, we climb over 
the Jujo-toge and Osaka- toge — a 
maze of thickly wooded mountains 
the whole way, peak alternating 
with rounded shoulder — to 

Chikatsnyu {Inn, Yamaguchi- 
ya), similarly situated in a valley, 
that of the Heki-gawa, and thence 
on to 

Nonaka (Inn, Matsu-ya), which 
stands high, a great cleft dividing it 
from still loftier hills that rise 
abruptly opposite. There are some 



362 



Route 43, — Through Kumano to Ise. 



monumental cryptomerias at the 
entrance of the village ; and on 
leaving it, the traveller will notice 
the first of a series of stockades and 
outlooks by which the peasants 
endeavour to protect their little 
patches of cultivation from the at- 
tacks of wild boars. 

Many other wild animals roam at will 
over this remote forest region of Kishu 
and southern Yamato, notably the wolf, 
the monkey, the deer, and the niku, which 
latter, to judge from the descriptions given 
of it, would seem to be a kind of chamois. 

Two hills — the Kobiro-toge and 
Buju-toge — separate Nonaka from 
Yunomine. The walk unfolds a 
succession of delightful contrasts, — 
the lovely glen of the Hiraigo-gawa, 
with its wild profusion of cherry- 
trees, azaleas, maples, camellias, 
lagerstroemias (saru-suberi) , ferns, 
mosses, etc., offering bright hues 
and contrasts for every season 
of the year; — next the pano- 
rama from the breezy top of the 
Buju-toge over a perfect wilderness 
of densely wooded mountains and 
deep ravines ; and then the descent 
through the severe simplicity of a 
forest of nothing but conifers, where, 
after a time, one catches the sound 
of rushing water, and sees, far be- 
low, the Magari-kawa, aptly so 
called from its many windings. But 
the curious part of the matter is 
that the Magari-kawa and the 
Hiraigo-gawa form in reality but one 
and the same valley, the upper part 
of which indulges in a botanical 
debauch, while the lower is vowed 
to monastic simplicity. 

Yunomine (Inns, Ise-ya and 
several others) is the most com- 
fortable village on the route, — far 
preferable to Hongu, 25 did further 
on, as a place to spend the night. 
The best plan to pursue is to leave 
one's luggage at Yunomine, and 
stroll over thence to Hongu to see 
the temples, returning to Yunomine 
to sleep. The Yunomine innkeepers 
are accustomed to make arrange- 
ments for boats down the river, and 
will have one in waiting for the 
traveller on the following morning. 



A public boat (here called josen) 
starts from Hongu for Shingu at a 
very uncertain time in the fore- 
noon, — fare 20 sen, or more if there 
are but few passengers, — and takes 
about 6 hrs. to perform the journey, 
except in flood-time, when the 
voyage is much quicker, but 
dangerous. To avail of the public 
boat, however, debars one from 
visiting Doro Hatcho ; so every well- 
advised traveller will engage a 
boat of his own (kai-kiri). The 
price, in 1893, was $4-J for a boat 
with three men to go down the 
rapids from Hongu to Miyai, thence 
up the Kitayama-gawa to Doro 
Hatcho, and down to Shingu: — 
time taken, 2 days. 

The slight odour of the sulphur 
springs to which Yunomine (locally 
pronounced Yunomune) owes its 
fame, is perceptible immediately on 
entering the village. The principal 
spring gushes out in mid-village, 
just above the river's edge, and the 
women carry their vegetables to 
cook iu it. The original tempera- 
ture of the spring used for the public 
bath is 198° Fahrenheit. Hard by 
is a little temple dedicated to Yaku- 
shi Nyorai, whose large image is 
cut out of sulphur-encrusted stone. 
The people bring tea-pots to have 
them encrusted in like manner. 

The local hero is Oguri Hang wan (see 
p. 63). On the way from Yunomine to 
Hongu is a mound called Kunima-zulca, 
beneath which, on being restored, to 
health and strength, Oguri Hangwan is 
said to have buried the barrow used by 
Terute Hime to wheel him hither. 

Hong'fi {Inn, Tama-ya) stands at 
the junction of a streamlet called 
the Otonashi-gawa with the broad 
Kumano-gawa. Though now but 
a poor village, it boasts a celebrated 
Shinto shrine. 

For what little is known of the early his- 
tory of this place, see p. 359. In the great 
floods of 1889 the river rose 60 ft., and the 
entire village was destroyed, the temple 
buildings themselves, which stood close 
to the water's edge, being mostly swept 
away. Out of twelve, only four remained 
available for restoration and repair ; and 
notwithstanding the immemorial sanctity 
of their previous site, they were removed 



Hongu. Rapids of the Kumano-gawa. 



363 



to the neighbouring hill, where they now 
occupy a commanding and perfectly safe 
position. The sum allowed by the Go- 
vernment for reconstruction was $27,0-0. 
To restore them on their former scale 
would have cost $170,000. A stone monu- 
ment on the original site, consisting of 
two small, coffer-shaped structures with- 
in an enclosure, commemorates the eight 
vanished temples and their gods. The 
chief festival at Hongu is celebrated on 
the 15th April, smaller ones on the 1st 
and 15th of every month. One of the 
peculiar rites is the pounding of rice-cakes 
\mochi) by the pilgrim bands, as an offer- 
ing to the local gods. For this purpose, 
gigantic pestles and mortars are provided 
in every inn. Strange to say, Hongu, not- 
withstanding its exceptional holiness and 
antiquity, ranks officially but as a pro- 
vincial temple of the second class (koku- 
hei chusha). The deities worshipped are 
(beginning at the 1.) :— in No. 1, Kumano 
Fusumi-no-Mikoto ; in No. 2, Hayatama- 
no-Mikoto; in No. 3, Kumano Ketsu-miko; 
in No. 4, Aniaterasu (5-mi-kami (the 
Sun-Goddess). 

Temples 1 and 2 are combined 
together under one roof, in what is 
called the ni-sha-zukuri style. A 
peculiar appearance is produced by 
the tawny-coloured suji-bei (see p. 
46) and the low stone wall, which 
together form the outer temple enclo- 
sure. Otherwise Hongu much re- 
sembles Ise, though on a smaller 
scale. Visitors are permitted to 
enter the pebble-strewn court inside 
the wall, but may not pass beyond 
the tama-gahi, which is of wood with 
gilt copper ornaments to conceal the 
nail-heads. The ends of the rafters of 
the temples are similarly adorned. 

A flock of crows forms a prominent fea- 
ture in the o fuda, or sacred pictures, sold 
at the three Kumano shrines, and also in 
the architectural ornaments of many sub- 
sidiary temples dedicated to the gods of 
Kumano, for instance, that situated in Ii- 
gura, Tokyo. The reason is that these 
deities are believed to employ the crow as 
their messenger, wherefore also this 
"bird is never killed within their precincts. 
There is a current belief to the effect that 
Koya-san is so precipitous that such 
luxuries as bean-curd (tqfu) cannot be 
carried up to it, but that the priests place 
coppers on the temple balustrade, with 
which the crows fly off to Kumano and 
bring back bean-curd in return. 

The boat trip down the Bapids of 
tlie Kumano-gawa 
This river rises in the mountains of 



Yoshino. During its upper course it is- 
called the Totsugawa. Sometimes also it 
is called the Otonase-gawa or Otonashi- 
gawa, properly the name of the tiny 
affluent that comes in at Hongu. 

is delightful, excitement constantly 
alternating with charming views of 
cliff, and azalea blossom, and 
splendid timber. The whole dis- 
tance from Hongu to Shingu is 
called 9 ri 8 did (Jcu-ri hat-cho, 
not to be confounded with the name 
of Doro Hatcho) ; but of course this 
is considerably increased by diverg- 
ing up the Kitayama-gawa to see 
the latter place. Specially cele- 
brated is a spot on the 1. bank, about 
1 hr. down from Hongu, called 
Shimoku-zan, whither Japanese 
painters often come to sketch the 
perpendicular basaltic cliffs crowned 
with fantastic pines, — a scene that 
lacks only some quaint pagoda on 
the least accessible-looking peak to 
make it the very embodiment of the 
style of landscape which the Far- 
Eastern artist most loves to repro- 
duce on screen and porcelain plate 
and lacquer tray. Just above and 
about 

Miyai, coal is worked in three or 
four places, but is of poor quality. 
Here is the junction of the Kuma- 
no-gawa with its large affluent, the 
Kitayama-gawa, a sight recalling 
that of the meeting of the Rhone 
and Saone. While the Kitayama- 
gawa is of crystalline clearness, the 
Kumano-gawa has run thick and 
muddy ever since the floods of 
1889. For some little distance, the 
two streams flow on side by side 
without mingling. 

That this curiously persistent alteration 
in the colour of the water is no mere local 
fancy of uneducated peasants, is con- 
firmed by the statement of Mr. Ernest 
Satow, who went down the Kumano-gawa 
in 1879, and describes the water as " dark 
green," whereas it is now a turbid grey. 

The ascent of the Kitayama-gawa 
from Miyai involves towing up 
another set of rapids varied by 
occasional sailing ; for if there is 
any wind at all, it is sure to serve 
from time to time, owing to the 



364 



Route 43. — Through Kumano to Ise. 



marvellous meanderings of the 
stream. Though progress be slow 
(the present writer took 7 hrs. from 
Miyai to Tado, and with a fuller 
river the journey would occupy 
longer), the time is agreeably spent 
driukiug in the charms of the 
scenery, and watching the skilfully 
navigated rafts that carry timber to 
the coast, or the fishermen who, 
generally in bands of four on each 
reach of the river, peer into the 
water for trout, and when they see 
any, cast hand-nets over them with 
amazing rapidity. The names of 
the hamlets on each bank on the way 
up are : — Miyai r., Shitaki L, Kei r., 
Kuju r., Taketo r., Yunokuchi r., 
Kogawaguchi 1. where an affluent 
comes in ; Shimazu r., Kizuro 1., Ta- 
maiguchi r., and Tado r. All are poor. 
Many are remarkable for being built 
tier above tier up the face of the 
mountain, with stone terraces to 
keep what little soil there is in place. 
It seems wonderful that cultivation 
can pay under such conditions, and 
also that the children do not come 
to an untimely end by falling into 
the abyss below. At Kuju a little 
waterfall will be noticed. 

[This hamlet is the starting-point 
of those who desire to climb 
Tamaki-san (3 ri), a mountain 
noted for its enormous crypto- 
merias and for a temple dedi- 
cated to the gods of Kumano, 
which is considered the Oku-no- 
in of Hongu. The summit 
(3,750 ft.) commands a very 
extensive view over a sea of 
mountains.] 

Kizuro and Tado being the only 
hamlets on the Kitayama-gawa 
possessing houses dignified with the 
name of inns, one or other of them 
should be selected for the night's 
halt. The former is about 1 ri 
below Doro Hatcho, the latter just 
above it. If possible, the latter 
should be pushed on to, as one 
thus gains the advantage of seeing 
Doro Hatcho in the strongly con- 



trasting lights of evening and morn- 
ing. 

Doro Hatcho is a gorge of the 
Kitayama-gawa, stretching between 
the hamlets of Tamaiguchi and 
Tado. The name does not mean, 
as might be supposed, " eight 
hundred yards of mud," but " eight 
hundred yards of tranquil water," 
lying between rapids below and 
rapids above ; and in reality the 
gorge is double that length, — not 8 
clw, but 16 cho. Deep green pellucid 
water, fairy vegetation, — especially 
in May and June when the azaleas 
and rhododendrons burst into bloom 
from every nook and cranny — dainty 
little sandy beeches, coves, pin- 
nacles, caves, on either side white 
battlements of rock of a fine-grained 
siliceous sandstone, curiously jointed 
and worked in together somewhat 
like the teeth in a jaw or the pieces 
of a puzzle, and forming pillars and 
overhanging stockades crowned with 
pines and reflected in the liquid 
mirror below, — all this combines to 
form the most perfect specimen of 
natural landscape gardening on a 
grand scale. When seen in the 
mists of early dawn or by moon- 
light, it is the very image of the 
haunts of the genii as pourtrayed 
by the artists of China and Japan. 
Names are given to various salient 
rocks, such as the Boat, the Hat, 
the Gods Ebisu and Daikoku, etc. ; 
but they have no special appro- 
priateness, and there is little use in 
taking a guide at Kizuro or Tamai- 
guchi to point them out, as native 
friends will probably suggest. The 
scenery continues very fine for several 
miles above Doro Hatcho, _ more 
especially at a place called Oi, 5 ri 
higher up ; but boats cannot as- 
cend further than Komatsu, whence 
it is an arduous walk of 8J m. 

[Doro Hatcho may also be reach- 
ed from Atawa, a vill. 2 ri 25 
cho N.E. of Shingu on the 
coast, whence 6 ri to Kogawa- 
guchi, where boats can be ob- 
tained. From Atawa to Koga- 



Doro Hatchp. Shingu, 



365 



waguchi the road leads over 
the Fuden-zaka, and through 
the villages of Nakadachi, Ni- 
shinohara, Kurusu, Kogurusu, 
and Itaya. The whole distance 
from Shingu to Kogawaguchi 
by this road may be done in 
jinrikisha.] 

From Doro Hatcho back to Miyai 
and thence to Shingti is a short 
day's boat journey, being all down 
stream. Rapids and pretty scenery 
accompany one the whole way, 
until suddenly there appears ahead 
a square-topped, wooded height, 
lower than the other hills. This is 
the site of the now demolished 
Castle of ShiDgu, to whose r. is 
seen a grove of tall cryptomerias 
marking the site of the temple 
of the gods of Kumano. The Kuma- 
no-gawa, like several other rivers 
on this coast, ends in a somewhat 
absurd fashion, there being no mouth 
to it at all except during the summer- 
floods, because the water oozes out to 
sea through the sand. Neverthe- 
less the current is rapid to the last ; 
and instead of the tide affecting the 
river, it is the muddiness of the river 
that affects the sea for some little 
distance. 

Shiiagil (Inns, Abura-ya, Shi- 
mizu-ya), which lives chiefly by the 
timber trade brought down the 
river, has little to detain the travel- 
ler. The site of the Castle should 
be visited for the sake of the fine 
view. The Shrines of Kumano 
(commonly called Shingu Gongeri) 
were burnt down in 1883, and only 
three out of the former twelve 
shrines, viz. those sacred to the 
gods Kumano Fusumi, Kumano 
Hayatama, and Ietsu Miko, have 
been rebuilt. Of the Shinto Temple 
of Kami-no-kura, dedicated to the 
Goblin (tengu) Takagami, there like- 
wise remains little but the site ; 
and the Grave of Shin-no-Jofuku 
will interest only the archaeologist. 
Such as the sights are, they can all 
be seen in 3 hrs. 

At the temple of Kami-no-kura, which is 
perched on the top of a high rock, the 



male inhabitants of the town still cele- 
brate an ancient and curious festival 
(Taimatsu Matsuri) on the 6th day of the 
1st moon, old style. A large number, 
young and old, some of them fathers with 
children strapped to their backs, and all 
with torches in their hands, run up the 
steep, irregular flight of steps leading to the 
temple site, and on reaching the top, are 
shut up in a narrow enclosure, packed as 
tight as they can hold, by another band of 
holiday-makers outside. Suddenly the 
gate is opened, and down they all rush 
helter-skelter, as fast as their legs can 
carry them, still with the lighted torches 
in their hands; and in feudal days, he 
who reached the bottom first received a 
bag of rice as a reward from the lord of the 
castle. It is averred that accidents never 
happen, notwithstanding the steepness of 
the steps, the flaming torches, and the 
hurry and confusion. Nevertheless, to ob- 
viate such a possibility and also to cheer 
on the runners, their male relatives line the 
staircase on either side. — The hill above 
the temple site is supposed to be the 
goblin's playground. 

Shin-no-Jofuku (the Chinese pronuncia- 
tion of his name is CJi'ln Hm Fn), having 
been sent by the Emperor Shi Huang Ti 
(B.C. 221-209) to search for the elixir of 
life, is said to have discovered Elysium 
(Horai-zan) , alias Japan, which he colo- 
nised with three thousand beautiful young 
men and maidens. Such, according to a 
legend widely credited in China, wa"s the 
origin of the Japanese nation. The present 
stone, dates only from the middle of the 
17th century. Some small mounds in 
the neighbourhood are believed to be the 
tombs of his followers. 

In all this part of Japan both 
sexes smoke tobacco rolled up in 
camellia leaves, the effect produced 
being that of the stump end of a 
green cheroot. Bundles of leaves 
for this purpose are sold in the Shin- 
gu shops for an infinitesimal sum. 

The birthplace of the celebrated 
Benkei was at the Funada ferry 
just above Shingu, which is passed 
J. on quitting the town. 

The road from Shingu to Nachi, 
all of which, except the last ri, is 
passable in jinrikisha, offers a suc- 
cession of varied views. Specially 
delightful are those of the Bays of 
Mizaivaki and Ugui. 

At Miwazaki and all along the coast to 
the E., where bonito- fishing is one of the 
sources of livelihood, the boats will 
be seen painted in bright colours, with 
patterns of flowers and the auspicious 
character i0 signifying "long life." 



366 



Route 43. — Through Kumano to Ise. 



This is done in order to attract that fish, 
which is believed to be highly esthetic 
and fastidious in its tastes. ■ — It is the 
beach between Shingu. and Nachi that 
provides the checker-players of Japan 
with their best go-ishi, — water-worn peb- 
bles of slate quartzite which serve as 
"men." 

At Hamanomiya the road turns 
inland. Jinrikishas can be left to 
await the traveller's return at the 
hamlet of Iseki, as 

Nachi may be "done" in a few 
hours, though it well deserves at 
least a day. The approach is by a 
large torii, and several flights of 
stone steps lined with magnificent 
cryptomerias. The height of the 
place, the luxuriant vegetation, 
and the nearness to so much run- 
ning water, make Nachi a delight- 
ful summer retreat. It has a 
number of inns. 

Remark that, in its wider acceptation, 
Nachi includes Iseki and several other 
hamlets, as far as Hamanomiya on the 
sea-shore. We use the name in its nar- 
rower sense, to designate the village in 
the hills which is famed for its temples 
and great waterfall. 

The very popular Buddhist 
Shrine of Nachi, No. 1 of the Thirty- 
three Places Sacred to Kwannon, 
dates — at least the present building 
dates — from the year 1590. It is fill- 
ed with ex-votos and miscellaneous 
adornments, its columns are pasted 
over with pilgrims' cards, and priests 
sit at little tables to sell staves 
and charms of more than usual 
variety. A gong (ivani-guchi) pre- 
sented by Hideyoshi is among its 
chief treasures. The Temple of 
Kumano, which stands close by, is 
in pure Shinto style. It was re- 
built early in the present reign, and 
is dedicated to Kumano Fusumi, 
Izanami, Izanagi, Kuni-toko-tachi, 
Ama-terasu, and a number of lesser 
divinities. But the great attrac- 
tion of Nachi lies in its Waterfalls, 
one of which is the highest in 
Japan, though as to the exact 
height there is wide divergence of 
opinion. Captain St. John, R.N., 
gives the lowest estimate, — 275 ft. 
Local vanity goes so far as to claim 
840 ft. ! 



Tradition says that the Buddhist saint, 
Mongaku Shonin, remained three weeks 
in the water just below the basin of this 
fall, fasting and doing penance. At the 
age of seventeen, he had become enam- 
oured of his beautiful cousin Kesa Gozen, 
who was already married to another ; but 
carried away by his passion, he did not 
hesitate to demand her from her mother. 
Alarmed for her mother's safety, Kesa 
Gozen feigned consent to his adulterous 
wishes, but on condition that he would 
first kill her husband. Then taking her 
husband's place in bed, she awaited the 
assassin. Mongaku accordingly entered 
the room at midnight, and carried into 
effect his murderous intention, but was so 
horrified on discovering who his victim, 
was, that he forsook the world and became 
a monk. 

The Great, or First Fall (Ichi no 
Taki), which is close to the vill., is 
easily accessible. An exploration 
of the lesser, but romantically 
situated, Second and Third Falls 
(Ni no Taki and San no Taki), 
higher up the course of the same 
stream, involves some slippery 
scrambling over the rocks that 
serve as natural stepping-stones. 
Rare ferns and mosses luxuriate 
on every side. Beyond this, 
higher up the mountain again, 
are numerous smaller cascades. 
On the opposite side of the 
Nachi valley, another stream forms 
a fall named the In-yo no Taki, or 
"Sexual Fall," on account of a 
large rock in the middle which is 
thought to resemble a phallus. 

Katsurft (Inns, Nagisa-ya, Mo- 
men-ya) possesses an ideal little har- 
bour, perfectly landlocked owing to 
an island at its mouth, and so deep 
that steamers can anchor close to 
the shore. The principal local in- 
dustry is fishing, though the whal- 
ing is no longer what it was in the 
"good old days." The best plan — 
granting that the traveller is blessed 
with an even temper which will stand 
the possible and seemingly unrea- 
sonable lengthening out of a single 
day's voyage into three or four — is 
to take one of the coasting steamers 
that touch here almost daily. 

Those bound "W. towards Osaka are 
called noborizbune, or " up-boats," for the 
reason that Osaka is near Kyoto, the old 
capital; those bound N.E. to Ise and 



East Coast of Kishu. 



367 



Yokkaichi are called kudari-bune, or 
" down-boats". 

He can thus see most advan- 
tageously what is best in Kishu, — 
its delightful coast scenery, — and 
will be spared dreadful roads and 
an almost endless amount of climb- 
ing. 

[It is only as far as Kinomoto, 
where also steamers can be 
picked up, that the land jour- 
ney can be done with any com- 
fort. The itinerary is as fol- 
lows : — 

KATSUEAto:— Ri.Cho.M. 

SHINGU 4 24 11J 

Narukawa ferry. 6 — J 

Atawa 2 19 6J 

KINOMOTO ..3 17 8j 

Total 10 30 26J 



All this is flat and passable 
for jinrikishas, much of it tying 
through a pleasant pine-wood 
that skirts the sea-shore. From 
Kinomoto it is possible to reach 
Owase in one day and Naga- 
shima in another; but one 
must be a very sturdy pedes- 
trian and be favoured with fine 
weather, the climb over the 
Obiki-zaka (lit. " the Hill of 
Long - Drawn - Outness " — and 
well does it deserve the name), 
the hills quaintly called Sone- 
taro and Sonejiro, the Yaki- 
yama-toge, the Magose-zaka, 
the Hajikami-zaka, and other 
rough passes being most fati- 
guing.] 

Chief Places on the Coast. 

Kinomoto (Inn, Morimoto) has 
but an open roadstead. The cliffs 
here are remarkably honeycombed, — 
blistered, as it were. Those on the 
right-hand side of the town (look- 
ing from the sea) are called Oni- 
ga-jo, or the Demons' Castle. 

This name they derive from the belief 
that they were the abode of demons, till 
the latter were subdued by Tamura Maro 
early in the 9th century. — The syllable hi, 
one meaning of which, in the Japanese 



pronunciation of the Chinese characters, 
is "demon" Jfo, recurs in many of the 
place-names about here. Thus we have 
/linomoto, Ni^ishima, Mi&isato, Y&Jci ; 
and local legend, has fabricated something 
appropriate to fit each. In reality the hi 
means " tree " in most of these names, — 
Mililzato, for instance, signifying " the 
village of three trees," nob " the village of 
three demons." 

The high cliff on the 1. of the 
town, beneath which the Creatress 
Izanami is said to lie buried, is 
called Hana no Iwaya. 

A straw rope (called shime-nataa) is 
stretched from the summit of this cliff to 
the trunk of a pine-tree below. This is 
renewed every year in February and 
October with great festivities, when 
enormous quantities of flowers are offered 
up, whence the name of the rock. At 
another festival, in July, a circular pile of 
firewood is built up to a height of 20 or 25 
ft., and the youths of the village try their 
skill in throwing a lighted torch to the 
top, so as to kindle the pile This is 
apparently done in honour of Kagutsuchi, 
the God of Fire or Summer Heat, who is 
believed to lie buried under a small roek 
opposite, called OJi no Iioaya or the Prince's 
Rock. 

Nisrisliima (Inn, Jubei) is a 

completely landlocked, pretty little 
harbour with deep anchorage. The 
hills, which rise round it in a circle, 
are cultivated in terraces a consi- 
derable way up. 

Sone and Mikisato have land- 
locked bays. The camphor-tree and 
vegetable wax-tree grow wild on 
the steep hills of this part of the 
coast, where cultivation can only 
be carried on in terraces supported 
by retaining walls. 

At Owase (Inns, Shingu-ya, Ata- 
rashi-ya), the hills retire to a little 
distance, like wings on either side of 
the picturesque and spacious bay. 
Owase is a populous junk-port, and 
the most flourishing place on all 
this coast. 

NagashiiilA (Inn, Hama-no-Ara- 
shi-ya) has but a poor harbour. The 
entrance, however, is very pretty, 
with the broken line of Oshima to 
the r., like a hand half-sunk beneath 
the water and only the finger-tips 
appearing. The inhabitants devote 
themselves to catching bonitos, 



368 



Route 43 .—Through Kumano to Ise. 



which they dry and salt for export. — 
The aspect of the coast is broken and 
picturesque all the way on hence to 
the province of Shima, and rounds 
the latter towards Ise ; but the 
densely wooded hills gradually sink 
in height. 

The interior being again practic- 
able from Nagashima onwards, we 
here leave the steamer, and strike 
across country in a north-easterly 
direction. 

Itinerary. 

NAGASHIMA to Bi. Clio. M. 

Uchi Mayumi 3 8 7f 

NOJIRI 4 17 11 

Funaki .-. 20 1J 

Total 8 9 20 



First we cross the rather steep 
Nizaka-toge, which a fine road 
makes passable for jinrikishas. From 
points on the ascent lovely vignettes 
are obtained of mountains all the 
way from Odai-ga-hara to the sea, 
and of the much-indented coast as 
far as Miwazaki. The town and 
bay of Nagashima lie just below, 
with the inlet called Katakami-no- 
ike, and the gravelly river-bed of 
the Sandogawa. At the top of this 
pass the traveller leaves the pro- 
vince of Kishu, 

Kishu, originally Ki-no-lcuni, tlie 
"Country of Trees," is the ancient seat of 
the worship of Susa-no-o and his son Iso- 
takeru. The former is said to have 
brought the seeds of trees from Korea, 
and to have planted Japan with them ; 
sipd as this region was celebrated for its 
timber, the seat of his worship was natur- 
ally fixed here. 

and enters the province of Ise. The 
descent on the other side is gradual 
and the scenery pleasing, being 
spoilt only by partial deforestation. 
The stream followed is an affluent of 
the Miyagawa, called Ouchiyama- 
gawa. The best halting-place is the 
vill. of Saki (Inn, K6zaki-ya), a 
short way beyond Mayumi. 

Nojiri (Inns, Hashimoto-ya, Ni- 
shimura-ya) is one of those places 



which, though scarcely known to 
the outer world, is much frequent- 
ed by picus pilgrims, as it pos- 
sesses a set of Shinto temples called 
Takihara-gu, which, notwithstand- 
ing their small size, yield but little 
in sanctity to those of Yamada 
(commonly known as the shrines 
of Ise) themselves. They stand 
in a solemn and impressive grove 
of cryptornerias and hinoki (cliam- 
cecyparis). As at Yamada, so here 
also there are two temple sites, 
which are built on alternately every 
twenty years. 

The raison d'etre of this holy place is a 
tradition to the effect that the Sun-God- 
dess rested here for some time on the way 
to Yamada (Uji), where she finally took 
up her permanent abode. Hence Nojiri is 
called O Tabi-sho. i.e. " The August Way- 
side Place," or KoDaijingu no Beklu, " the 
Supreme Goddess's Separate Palace." 

From Nojiri to Fnnsiki (no inns)* 

is a short walk along the flat. The 
rest of the way (some 12 ri) to 
Yamada being similarly flat, a 
pleasanter alternative than going 
by jinrikisha is to take boat at 
Funaki down the Miyagawa, just 
above whose mouth Yamada is 
situated. The expedition occupies 
from 5 to 9 firs., according to the 
state of the river. It is advisable to 
get the people of the inn at Nojiri to 
arrange for the boat o\ ornight. 
The cost of a private boat is $2 or 
$3. Native travellers may some- 
times get a lift on a cargo-boat 
for 20 sen ; but this would be 
difficult for a foreigner to manage, 
and would probably involve much 
loss of time. 

Some 8 ri up the Miyagawa from Funa- 
ki, may be seen some of the finest cryp- 
tornerias in Japan. They grow in a glen 
appropriately named O-sugi-dani, or the 
Vale of the Great Cryptornerias. 

The whole course of the Miyagawa 
is pretty, especially during the 
azalea season, and there are several 
rapids. The river is full of small 
trout (ayu). Much timber is floated 
down it, both in the shape of rafts 
and as single trunks, each of which 
is marked so as to enable its owner- 



Route 44. — Minor Itineraries in Kishu. 



369 



ship to be ascertained on reaching 
destination. Many of course ground 
en route, and have to be started off 
again. The authorities discourage, 
without peremptorily forbidding, 
this practice, which contributes its 
quota to the destruction of bridges 
and embankments. From the 
landing-place at 

Yaniada (see p. 250) to the Abu- 
ra-ya Inn, is a distance of 28 cho. 
Jinrikishas are almost always in 
waiting. 



BOTJTE 44. 

Minor Itineraries in Kishu. 

I. From Tanabe to Shingu by the 
Coast. (This road is popularly known 
as the 0-hechi, while the inland 
road from Tanabe to Hongu and 
thence across country to Nachi is 
the Naka-hechi.) 

TANABE to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Asso 1 26 4J 

Tonda 1 12 3J 

Ago 3 9 8 

SUSAMI 1 18 3f 

Esumi 4 32 12 

Wabuka 1 26 4J 

TANAMI 2 9 5J 

Nishiki (for Ku- 

shimoto) 1 24 4 

KOZA 1 3 2| 

Shimozato 4 18 11 

Temma 1 31 4J 

Miwazaki 2 20 6J 

SHINGU 1 25 4 

Total 31 19 77 



There are said to be no less than 
forty-eight passes (shi-ju-has-saha) 
on the way, so that almost all of it 
has to be walked, except where one 
can get a lift from a boat or coasting 
steamer. But though the coun- 
try is rough in every sense of the 



word, it is generally picturesque, 
and the winter climate so mild that 
snow rarely falls more than once a 
year, and ice is seldom seen. The 
following inns are fair: — 

At Tanabe, Gomei-ro, Kyo- 

hachi. 
,, Ago, Nekoyama. 

,, Susami, Naga-ya. 

,, Esumi, Fujimoto. 

,, Kushimoto (near 

Nisbiki), Kaigetsu-ro. 

,, Koza, Sumi-ko. 

,, Sbimozato, Date Kanzabu- 

ro. 
The temples of Murydji and 
Jojuji at Kushimoto have fine 
fnsuma painted by Okyo and his 
pupil Bosetsu. 

II. From Hongu to Noxhi. 

HONGU to : - Bi. Cho. M. 

Ukegawa.^ 25 If 

Koguchi (Oyama)) . _ qSL 

Irogawa j 4 

Nachi 2 25 6J 

Total 7 14 18 



Distances approximate only. This 
road, which is much traversed by 
pilgrims, lies over the passes called, 
from their height, by the_quaint 
names of Ko-gumo-tori and 0-gumo- 
tori, that is, literally, the Lesser 
Cloud-Taker and the Greater Cloud- 
Taker. 

III. Byujin, near the borders of 
Yamato, famed for its hot springs. 
The way thither from Wakayama 
lies through the vills of Todoroki 
(Inn, Abura-ya) and Shimizu (Inn, 
Matsu-ya), the total distance being 
about 15 ri over the mountains. 
Byujin offers excellent accommoda- 
tion, the best of its numerous inns 
being the Kami Goten. 



370 Route 45. — From Kyoto to Ama-no-Hashidate. 



ROUTE 45. 

From Kyoto through Tamba to 
mlyazu on the sea of japan. 
Maizuru. Ama-no-Hashidate. 

Itinerary. 

KYOTO to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Kameoka 6 2 14f 

Souobe 4 21 ll| 

Hinokiyama 3 31 9J 

Ikuno 5 33 14J 

Fukuchiyama .... 2 26 6| 

Komori(Tadehara). 3 13 8J 

Ogawa 3 13 8J 

Yura 2 20 61 

MIYAZU 3 7 7| 

Total 35 22 87 



There is an excellent jinrikisha 
road the whole way, and baslia from 
Kyoto cover the distance in 18 hrs. 
Those whose sole object is to visit 
Ama-no-Hashidate may prefer tak- 
ing train to Tsuruga, whence steamer 
to Miyazu in 10 to 12 hrs., only to be 
counted on in fine weather, as the 
boat is very small. The first stages 
of the land journey, as far as Hi- 
nokiyama, are dull travelling ; but 
thence onwards the scenery im- 
proves, the road crossing and re- 
crossing the Yuragawa which flows 
amongst well-wooded hills. This 
river derives its name from the vill. 
of Yura, where it debouches into 
the sea. 

Kameoka (fair accommodation) 
was formerly the castle-town of a 
small Daimyo, as was also Sonobe 
(fair accommodation). The Kwan- 
non-toge is passed on the way to 
_ Hinokiyaniii (Inn, the old Hon- 
jin), which is a good halting-place 
for the night. Ikuno on this route 
must not be confounded with the 
Ikuno in Tajima noted for its silver 
mines. Numerous uninteresting 
hamlets are passed before reaching 
Fukuchiyama (Inn, *Daikatsu). 
The site of the former Daimyo's 
castle, now occupied by a Shinto 
temple, deserves a visit. Fukuchi- 



yama is girdled on three sides by 
mountains: — N., Mitake-yama; W., 
Ana-no-ura-toge ; N.E., Oni-ga-jd, 
which derives its name from an 
ogre who is supposed to have inha- 
bited its fastnesses before taking re- 
fuge in Oeyama further north. His 
cave is still shown on the hillside. 

The story has been told for English 
readers by Mrs. T. H. James, under the 
title of The Ogre's Arm, included in the 
Kobunsha ''Fairy Tales Series," 

[A road of 8 ri 19 did (20| m.) 
connects Fukuchiyama with 
Wadayama on the way to the 
baths of Yushima.] 

An alternative way from Fuku- 
chi-yama to the coast is by boat down 
the Yuragawa. But travellers are 
advised to take the boat only as far 
as Komori, 3 ri, the current being 
swift down to that place, but sluggish 
beyond. The passage occupies 2 
hrs. either by passenger boat start- 
ing daily, or by private boat. The 
scenery is romantic. From 

Komori (Inn, Tan-yasu), onwards 
there is a choice between the fine 
new jinrikisha road (9 ri), and the 
old_road (6£ ri) skirting the base 
of Oeyama. Another name for the 
mountain is Senjd-ga-take. 

[Near Ogawa, a road diverges to 
Maizuru (Inn, Watanabe), 
about 2 ri, which possesses the 
best harbour on the W. coast, 
and has recently been selected 
as an Imperial naval depot.] 

The valley of the Yuragawa, 
which the main road follows, grows 
more and more beautiful as one 
approaches the coast, till at last the 
eye rests on the Sea of Japan with 
rocky islets in the offing. 

Yura (Inn, Omori) is mentioned 
in the national annals as the birth- 
place of Urashima (see p. 65). 
From here the road follows the 
windings of the coast till it reaches 
a large vill. where it turns inland, 
and passes through a tunnel from 
whose mouth Ama-no-Hashidate is 
seen straight ahead and Miyazu to 



Route 46. — From Himeji to Miyazu, 



371 



the L This is a charming section 
of the route. 

Miyazu (Inns, Ariki, with branch 
on outskirts of town having bathing- 
stage and view of Ama-no-Hashi- 
date ; Yamaga) is a small town 
possessing considerable fisheries and 
daily steamboat communication 
with Tsuruga, besides occasional 
communication with Sakai (for 
Matsue in the province of Izumo) 
and with Shimonoseki. Miyazu 
produces silk crape. 

Ama-no-Hashiciate (Bestts. Mon- 
jo, Kanshichi) has been famous 
throughout Japan from time imme- 
morial as one of the San-kei, or 
"Three Great Sights" of the Em- 
pire. Described in prosaic topogra- 
phical parlance, it is a narrow sandy 
spit which nearly closes up a lateral 
arm of the gulf at whose head 
Miyazu is situated. Its length is a 
little under 28 cho, or nearly 2 m. 
Its breadth is 32 hen, that is, about 
190 ft. English. An avenue of 
pine-trees runs right along it. The 
.arm or bay which it encloses, called 
Iwataki no Minato, is 1 ri from E. 
to W., and over 1 ri from N. to S. 
The depth of the bay in the middle 
is 11 fathoms ; but the entrance is 
too shallow to admit any but the 
smallest craft. Hence, though the 
waves may be in seething commo- 
tion on one side, on the other but a 
few yards off there is the perfect 
stillness of a mill-pond. Chionji, 
a Buddhist temple opposite the tip 
of Ama-no-Hashidate, is 1 m. from 
Miyazu, and may be reached either 
by land or by boat. From Chionji 
passengers are conveyed across to 
the tip of the peninsula in a ferry- 
boat, a distance of some 200 yds. 
Such are the dry facts relating to 
this celebrated spot. In order to 
see it to best advantage, the traveller 
should climb the neighbouring hill 
of Myoken-zan, where there will be 
spread out before him on a fine day 
a wondrous panorama of sea and 
mountains, with the delicate, fairy- 
like, pine-clad peninsula in the 
foreground. 



The curious name Ama-no-Hashidate, 
literally "the Bridge (or ladder) of 
Heaven," is said to have been given to this 
place in allusion to the Amano UJci-hashi, 
or "Floating Bridge of Heaven," whereon 
the creator and creatress, Izanagi and Iza- 
nami, stood when they stirred up the 
brine of primeval chaos with their jewel- 
led spear, the drops from which consoli- 
dated into the first island of the Japanese 
archipelago. The little Shinto shrine at 
the point of the peninsula is, however, 
dedicated to Hashidate Myojin, apparently 
a local deity. 



ROUTE 46. 

From Himeji to Yushima and 
Miyazu on the Sea of Japan. 

silver mines of ikuno. tottori 
and togo-ike. toyooka. caves 
of gemmudo. 

Itinerary. 

HIMEJI to :— Ri. Clio. M. 
Tsujikawa (Nishi- 

Tawara) 4 23 11J 

IKUNO 6 22 16£ 

Takeda 4 8 lof 

Wadayama 1 9 3 

Yoka 3 9 8 

TOYOOKA 5 9 12f 

YUSHIMA 2 32 7 

Kumihama 3 17 8J 

Nonaka 2 8 5J 

Mineyama 3 23 9 

Kuchiono 1 24 4 

Iwataki 1 20 3f 

MIYAZU 2 28 6f 

Total 43 16 106 



This route takes one straight over 
the central range dividing the 
waters that flow towards the Inland 
sea from those that debouch into 
the Sea of Japan. The hill scenery 
is less attractive than might be 
expected, almost all the beauty lying 
at the far end of the route. The silver 
mine, however, is the most noted in 
Japan. Jinrikishas are practicable 
throughout ; but two men are necess- 



372 



Route 46. — From Rimeji to Miyazu. 



ary as far as Ikuno, while the road 
leads up the valley of the Ichikawa. 

Tsujiksiwa {Inn, Masu-ya). The 
village of 

IkiiliO (Inn, Shibahashi, at the 
mine), 1,200 ft. above the sea, is said 
to experience a daily rainfall. It 
lies some distance from the Silver 
Mine. 

The ore is brought on a light railway to 
the village, where the silver is extracted. 
Two processes are employed. In one, the 
crushed and roasted ore is lixiviated with 
hyposulphite of soda, and the silver then 
precipitated by sulphite. The machinery 
is driven by turbines. Visitors are admit- 
ted to the works between the hours of 
8 a.m. and 3 p.m., and are expected to 
make a small donation towards the sick 
miners' fund. The Diet sanctioned in 
1893 the construction of a railway to be 
called the Bantan Tetsvdo, which will 
connect Ikuno with Himeji. 

From Ikuno onwards, the road 
leads downhill, but is rather bad in 
places. At Takeda, on an eminence 
behind the town, are the ruins of a 
castle built by Akamatsu Enshin. 

Wadayama (Inn, Daishichi). 

There is but inferior accommoda- 
tion at Yoka. 

[A road leads from Yoka 
over the mountains to Tottori. 
The following distances, in the 
absence of a full survey, are 
approximate only. 
YOKA to:— Ri.Cho.M. 

Sekinomiya .... 4 — 9f 

Muraoka 3 — 7J 

Yumura 4 21 ll| 

Iwai 4 — 9 J 

TOTTOBI 5 — 12J 

Total 20 21 50i 



Inns : at Muraoka, Izumi-ya. 
,, Yumura, Tomi-ya. 
,, Iwai, Koma-ya. 

„ Tottori, U^° Zeni ' ya ' 
' ( Tajima-ya. 

Yumura has some very hot 
springs, some of which are used 
by the villagers to boil their 
vegetables in. There are also 
hot springs at Iivai. 

Tottori, now the capital of the 
prefecture of the same name 



and also of the province of 
Inaba, was formerly the seat of 
Matsudaira Hoki-no-Kami. Ita 
chief industries are cotton and 
silk, but its prosperity has 
considerably declined since the 
fall of feudalism, and the 
prefecture of Tottori is the least 
populous in Japan. About 10 
ri to the W. of Tottori lies a 
pretty lagoon called 

Tog'oike, perhaps the pleas- 
antest spot on this coast at 
which to make a lengthened 
halt. Not only are there ex- 
cellent inns, but also good 
natural hot baths, boating, and 
fishing.] 

Toyooka, {Inn, Miki-ya) noted for 
its manufacture of yanagi-gori, is a 
busy town of 6,000 inhabitants. 
Leaving this place, and continuing 
along the bank of the Maruyama- 
gawa, which here becomes tidal, we 
reach a ferry leading across to some 
very interesting caves called Gem- 
muddy on the hillside. They present 
a columnar appearance, and, like 
Staffa and lona, are probably of 
basaltic formation. 

Yushima (Inns, Yuto-ya, Miki-ya) 
is a vill. prettily situated in the 
estuary of the Maruyama-gawa, 
possessing hot and tepid springs 
said to be efficacious in rheumatism 
and cutaneous diseases. The Yuto- 
ya inn has a private spring. The 
inhabitants manufacture boxes out 
of wheat- stalks and mulberry wood. 

There is a choice of ways from 
Yushima to Kumihama, one 
suitable for jinrikishas, the other 
a mere footpath, but somewhat 
shorter. The distance given in the 
itinerary is that of the former. 
On the way between the two 
places, one passes the boundary line 
separating the provinces of Tajima 
and Tango. The road is hilly 
and the scenery quite pretty be- 
tween Kumihama, Mineyama which 
was formerly a castle-town, and 
Kuchiono. From this place one 
may reach Miyazu by jinrikisha ; 



Route 47. — Matsue and the Temples of Izumo. 



373 



frut in fine weather it is pre- 
ferable to go on foot to Iwataki, 
whence the most celebrated view of 
Arna-no-Hashidate and Miyazu is 
to be had, and then take boat to 

Miyazu (see p. 371). 



EOUTE 47. 

Matsue and the Temples of Izu- 
mo. [Daisen.] Hamad a. Hagi. 
I. — Matsue and Neighbourhood. 

The principal object of interest on 
this little-travelled route is the 
Great Shinto Temple of Izumo 
described on the next page. No 
part .of Japan is more primitive 
than this West Coast region, where 
the people's speech is rude and 
their ways are simple, where the 
ancient gods still rule, and the 
sacred lamps are kindled nightly in 
every home. 

A common Japanese name for the "West 
Coast is Sanindo, or Shady District, given 
to it in contradistinction to the shore of 
the Inland sea, which is called Sanyodo, 
or Sunny District. The striking differ- 
ence in climate between the two fully 
justifies these names. 

Matsue and the Great Temple are 
best approached by steamer from 
Osaka via Shimonoseki to Sakai 
(Inn, Kagawa), the port of Matsue. 

The ' shortest way to Matsue by 
land is up the valley of the Takata- 
gawa, as follows : 

Itinerary. 

QKAYAMA to :— Bi. Clio. M. 

Kanagawa 5 — 12J 

Fukuwatashi 3 — 7J 

Ochiai 8 2 19| 

Katsuyama 2 — 5 

Mikamo 3 20 8f 

Shinjo 1 24 4 

Itaibara 2 14 5f 

Neu 1 33 4f 

YONAGO 7 12 18 

Total 34 33 85J 



Jinrikishas are practicable 
throughout. From Yonago to Ma- 
tsue is 14 m. by steamer across the 
pretty Naka-umi Lagoon. The whole 
journey takes 3 days. Travellers 
coming in the opposite direction can 
avail of boats down the river from 
Ochiai. The best halting places are 
Katsuyama (Inn, Kishi-ya), Neu 
(Inn, Abura-ya), and Yonago (Inns, 
Komego, Yuwasa). 

[A detour, before reaching Yonago, 
will enable the traveller to visit 
Daises*, or Oyama, 6,650 ft., 
the loftiest as well as the 
most sacred mountain on the 
West coast, where_ dwells the 
great Shinto god, Onamuji-no- 
Mikoto. 

Founded in A D. 718, the monastery 
owes its lasting celebrity to the 
seventh abbot Jikakn Daishi, who is 
said to have landed here on his return 
from China, whither he had betaken 
himself to study esoteric mysteries. 
It attained its greatest prosperity in 
the 14th century, at about the time 
when the hapless Emperor Go-Daigo 
was exiled to the Oki Islands, There 
were then no less than two hundred 
and fifty temples in all on the moun- 
tain. During the Tokugawa. regime, 
when the centre of civilisation had 
shifted to Eastern Japan, these de- 
creased to . forty, and now little re- 
mains but moss-covered ruins and a 
few monks in abject poverty. The 
latter eke out a livelihood by letting 
rooms to pilgrims, to whom , however, 
the strict Buddhist discipline forbids 
their offering a more generous diet 
than potatoes and other scanty vege- 
tables. 

The temples are situated half- 
way up the mountain side ; the 
path is execrable, but the view 
from the top extensive. The 
chief features are the Oki Is- 
lands in the offing, Sambe- 
yama on the borders of Izumo 
and Iwami to the W., and 
Mikuni-yama and the moun- 
tains of Tajima and Tamba to 
the E. The descent from Dai- 
sen is best made to Kuruma- 
Omura, 1 ri from Yonago.] 

Matsue (Inns, Minami, Makido, 
Katsube), the most important town 



374 Route 47. — Matsue and the Temples of Izumo. 



on the West coast, is noted for its 
agates and crystals and for the 
manufacture of paper. Formerly 
the seat of Matsudaira Dewa-no- 
Kami, whose well-preserved castle 
stands on a height in its midst, 
Matsue is a clean and prosperous 
city, splendidly situated on the 
borders of the Shinjiko Lagoon, 
surrounded by lesser hills beyond 
which rise the blue silhouettes of 
distant mountain ranges, with 
Daisen towering high above all. Of 
Matsue's many temples, the best 
worth seeing are Gesshdji, Tokdji, 
Kasuga, and Inari. The hot springs 
of Tamatsukuri, 1£ ri S.W. of Ma- 
tsue, are a popular resort. 

2. — Great Temple of Izumo. 

The best way from Matsue to the 
great Shinto temple of Izumo is by 
steamer to Shobara, or to Hirata 
near the W. end of the lagoon, 
whence the journey is made by jin- 
rikisha in 3 or 4 hrs., the whole 
distance being 10^ ri, or 25J miles. 
Sambeyama looms up in front. 

Kizuki {Inns, Inaba-ya, Oshima- 
ya), a quaint little town at the 
base of Tabiishi-yama, is famed 
throughout the length and breadth 
of Japan for the Great Temple of 
Izumo (Izumo 0-yashiro), which is 
dedicated to the god Onamuji, and 
disputes with Ise the honour of 
being the most ancient and vene- 
rable shrine of the Shinto religion. 
Kizuki is also a favourite sea-bath- 
ing resort. 

The province of Izumo, and more or less 
the whole country eastward to Tajima 
and Tango, together with the Old Islands, 
occupy a prominent place as the theatre of 
many of the tales forming the old Japa- 
nese mythology. Indeed that mythology 
lias been traced by students to three cen- 
tres, of which one is Kyushu with its 
warlike legends of Jimmu Tenno and 
Jingo Kogo, ancestors of the Imperial 
line ; another is Yamato, which in early 
days seems to have had native princes of 
its own ; and the third is Izumo, wherein 
are located strange tales of gods, and 
monsters, and speaking animals, and 
caves through which entrance to Hades is 
obtained. Susa-no-o-no-Mikoto, born from 
the nose of the creator Izanagi and brother 



to the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, is the- 
hero of some of these tales. The hero of 
most of the others is_his descendant Ona- 
muji, also called Okuni-nushi, that is, 
" the Master of the Great Land," in other 
words, the King of Izumo, to whom later 
on an embassy was sent from heaven, 
requesting him to abdicate the sovereignty 
in favour of the Sun-Goddess's descen- 
dant, progenitor of the earthly Mikados. 
To this he consented, on condition of 
having a temple built for his reception 
and worship. So they built him a grand 
shrine on the shore of the land of Izumo, 
"making stout the temple pillars on the 
nethermost rock-bottom, and making high 
the cross-beams to the plain of high 
heaven,"— and there he is worshipped to 
this day, the very name of Kizuki 
preserving to the faithful the recollection 
of the pestles IJcine) with which the soil 
was beaten (tsuku) to render the founda- 
tions firm and everlasting.— Possibly this 
tale preserves in mythic form an echo of 
the conquest of Western Japan by the 
present ruling race, 



The buildings (see illustration 
facing p. 33), which are in the 
un ornamented style of pure Shinto, 
impress the beholder by their great 
size and solidity and the majesty 
of the approaches under successions 
of Colossal torii. The services are 
conducted by priests gorgeously 
arrayed in white and purple robes 
with gold figuring. The chief priest, 
who boasts of being the eighty- 
second descendant in a direct line 
from the god Susa-no-o, used to be 
styled Iki-gami — that is, a God 
upon Earth. The temple possesses- 
many curiosities and valuable docu- 
ments. Here, too, may be seen the 
ancient fire-drill, which, though but 
a simple board with holes wherein 
a rapidly revolving stick kindles 
sparks, is still preserved as the sole 
lawful means of producing the 
sacred fire. There are nineteen 
other shrines, not consecrated to- 
any deities in particular, but in 
which all the Shinto gods and god- 
desses are supposed to assemble 
during the month of October. For 
this reason October is, in Izumo 
alone, called Kami-ari-zuki, " the 
Month with Gods;" whereas, in the 
classical parlance of the rest of 
Japan, it is Kami-na-zuki, " the 
Month without Gods," because all 



Route 48* — The Old Islands, 



375 



the other shrines of the Empire are 
believed to be then abandoned by 
their tutelary deities. On the sea- 
shore stands a much smaller temple 
— the scene, so it is said, of the abdi- 
cation of the sovereignty of Izu- 
mo by the god Onamuji. From 
200,000 to 250,000 pilgrims visit the 
Great Shrine yearly. On festal 
days the sound of the clapping of 
hands, to call the attention of the 
god, is unbroken like the roar of a 
cataract. 

Owing to the prominent posi- 
tion of Izumo in mythology and 
legend, many Shinto shrines, be- 
sides that dedicated to Onamuji, 
are found scattered about the pro- 
vince. Such are Kurnano Jinja, 
5 ri S. of Matsue, dedicated to 
Susa-no-o ; Mio Jinja, at the beauti- 
ful little seaport of Mionoseki, about 
2 hrs. by steamer from Matsue ; 
Yaegaki Jinja, at the hamlet of 
Sakusa ; and Hinomisaki, 2 ri down 
the coast from Kizuki by boat. 

Apart from temples, there is a 
pretty 4 ri excursion from Kizuki 
to the banks of the Kobegaiva, 
which, for the space of nearly a 
mile, exhibits fantastic rock scenery. 
The best plan is to take a boat 
down the river. A second, longer 
and very much rougher, expedition 
is up Sambeyama, the highest 
mountain in all this country-side, 
Daisen only excepted. 

3. — Ham ad a and Hagi. 

These ports will probably be 
touched at on the way to or from 
Matsue by sea. 

H am aria (Inns, D6gu-ya, Hama- 
oka), situated on a fine bay, is chiefly 
noted on account of the terrible 
earthquake which half wrecked it 
in 1872, and in which over two 
thousand persons perished. 

[There is a cross-country road 
from Hamada to Hiroshima on 
the Inland Sea, a distance of 
approximately 30 ri, or say 3 
days' journey. The first part 
is very rough, over steep hills 



and with scaDt accommoda- 
tion ; but jinrikishas can be 
taken over portions of the road. 
From Mizaka, which stands on 
the boundary of the provinces 
of Iwami and Aki, and where 
is also the water-shed between 
the Sea of Japan and the In- 
land Sea, it is a descent almost 
all the way for over 12 ri to 
Eabe, whence a flat road of 4 
ri on the flat leads into the 
suburbs of Hiroshima.] 

Hagi (Inn, Osaka-ya) was in 
early feudal times the residence of 
the great Mori family — Daimyos 
of Ghoshu — before their removal to 
the town of Yamaguchi. Instead of 
continuing on in the steamer round 
the coast, most persons will prefer 
to cut across country from Hagi to 
Yamaguchi. The distance is 9 ri 
over the Ichi-no-saka pass, or 12 
ri by the new road ; but the former 
is generally followed. A day will 
suffice in either case. 



ROUTE" 48. 

The Oki Islands. 

Oki consists of one large island 
called Dogo, and three smaller 
ones, — Chiburi-shima, Nishi - no - 
shima, and Nakashima, — collective- 
ly known as Dozen. The chief 
town is Saigo in Dogo, the distance 
to which by steamer from Sakai in 
Hoki is 39 ri, or 95 miles. Official- 
ly, Oki forms part of the prefecture 
of Shimane. The name Oki-no- 
shima evidently signifies "Islands 
of the Offing." 

Remote and rarely visited as is this 
little archipelago, its name has figured in 
the national annals from the very earliest 
ages. One of the quaintest and best- 
known legends in the KojiH is that of 
the White Hare of Inaba, which sagacious 
animal, chancing to be in Oki and desir- 
ing a passage to the mainland, made the 
crocodiles (or sharks) of the sea lie in a 
row, so as to serve him as a bridge. — Com- 



376 



Route 48. — The Old Islands. 



ing down to historical times, the 
ex-Emperor Go-Toba, who had vainly 
striven to upset the feudal system 
and restore his own legitimate authority, 
was defeated by Hojo Yoshitoki, and 
banished to Amagori in Dozen, where 
he died after many years of exile, 
A.D. 1239, and where his tomb is 
still shown. About eighty years later 
another emperor, Go-Daigo, was banish- 
ed by another Hojo chieftain to Beppu in 
Nishi-no-shima, but soon effected his es- 
cape. Oki was a constant scene of strife 
during the Middle Ages, being wrested by 
one feudal family from another. The 
archipelago cannot f <>ed itself ; the great 
staple is the cuttle-fish, of which incredi- 
ble quantities are sometimes taken The 
inhabitants number over 30,000, and 
speak a peculiar dialect. 

The following account of a visit 
to Oki in August, 1892, is taken 
from a private letter of Mr. Lafcadio 
Hearn, to whose Glimpses of Un- 
familiar Japan we refer the reader 
desirous of more detailed informa- 
tion. 

" I think the reason more people 
'don't go to Oki, is because of the 
wretched little steamer that makes 
the journey — the most uncomfort- 
able craft ever launched ; however, 
she is swift and strong, and makes 
her trip of 95 miles from Sakai in 
between 5 aud 6 hours. As the Izu- 
mo and Hold mountains fade from 
sight, the high cliffs of Oki come 
into view. Steaming into this 
archipelago, one sees at first no 
sign of life, — neither fields, paths, 
nor felled timber, — only naked grey 
cliffs sheering up from blue-black 
depths of water to peaked slopes 
covered with a sombre, scraggy, 
wild vegetation. Nevertheless, there 
is beauty here. The water becomes 
like glass as the steamer glides 
into an inland sea, formed by the 
three islands of Chiburi-shima, 
Nishi-no-shima, and Nakashima. 
On the coast of Chiburi-shima, the 
steamer first touches at a tiny 
village called Chiburi-mura, which 
comes suddenly into view. 

It was from this village that the 
Emperor Go-Daigo made his famous es- 
cape in a fishing-boat, being concealed by 
the Oki fishermen under a heap of dried 
fish. 



" Then she proceeds to Urago in 
Nishi-no-shima, — a very quaint 
little town, with houses all facing 
the sea, and stone wharves rising 
out of deep water. I dined at an 
inn (Watanabe), and was astonished 
at the excellence of the dinner. I 
had not eaten a better Japanese 
meal anywhere, and the price was 
only 7 sen. Hishi-ura in Naka- 
shima is the next port at which the 
steamer stops. Its semi-circle of 
wharves faces the clearest of sea- 
water. The buildings are very 
neat. The best inn is Okazaki. I 
think the scenery in this archi- 
pelago much finer on the whole 
than that of the boasted Inland 
Sea. The glimpses between high 
islands, the openings of straits, the 
vistas of tender blue distance be- 
tween rugged high cliffs, — are won- 
derfully beautiful. Everything is 
lofty. Bice-fields are seldom visible. 
The steamer leaves Hishi-ura for 
Dogo across 8 ri of dangerous sea, 
passing Matsushima, Omori-shima, 
and a number of small, lofty, steep, 
uninhabited islands on the way. 
Some of this island scenery is very 
fantastic. There are several re- 
markable sea-caves. Dogo is quite 
as steep and rugged as its neigh- 
bours. 

" The harbour of SaigO is^ very 
large, — opening into the land in the 
form of a Greek o), — and has 
heights all round it. The scenery 
is pretty, like that of nearly all the 
Oki ports. Saigo stands partly on 
a small river — the Yabigawa, — and 
it lines the bay and the mouth of 
the river in a most curious way, so 
that the streets twist about like 
snakes to a great length. There 
are nearly 1,000 houses, and I 
suppose fully 5,000 inhabitants. 
Jinrikishas have not yet found their 
way here, but horses of a peculiarly 
small breed abound. The best inn 
is Inayoshi where good food can 
be had, including beef. The city is 
fresh and new, having been burnt 
to the ground a few years ago, and 



Route 49. — The Island of Awaji. 



377 



completely rebuilt. The depth of 
the harbour is complained of as an 
inconvenience ; but Saigo is a busy 
and prosperous port. Three hun- 
dred vessels at a time may be seen 
riding in the harbour. Russian 
and English men-of-war have visit- 
ed Saigo ; but I am the first for- 
eigner to dwell in the town. Out- 
side are a few rice-fields. On a hill 
above the town is the new and 
pretty temple of Zenrydji, belonging 
to the Jodo sect, — the gift of a 
wealthy citizen. There are also 
some places locally celebrated, such 
as the Dangyo-taki, a waterfall 5 ri 
from Saigo ; but the paths are un- 
speakably bad, and everything is 
rocks and mountains. There is 
found at a celebrated lake (Sad-no- 
ike), near Saigo, the famous batei- 
seki, a black stone which is the 
meibutsu of Old. Beautiful jet-like 
articles are cut from it." 



EOUTE 49. 

The Island of Awaji. 

The Island of Awaji, situated at 
the eastern entrance of the Inland 
Sea, can be easily reached by small 
steamer from Kobe (Hyogo) in 2 
hrs. to Kariya, which is the first 
port touched at. The steamers, 
after calling at Kariya, continue on 
to Shizuki, 40 min., and to Sumoto, 
the capital, 40 min. more. Awaji may 
also be reached by sailing or rowing- 
boat from Akashi or Maiko on the 
Sanyo Railway to Iwaya. Public 
boats cross several times daily. 

The chief distances on the island 
are as follows : — 
East Coast— Ri. Oho. M. 

Kariya to Shizuki 3 25 9 

Shizuki to Sumoto 2 33 7 J 

Sumoto to Yura 2 9 5 \ 

Southern Inland Road — 

Sumoto to Hirota .... 1 29 4J 
Hirota to Fukura 3 28 9| 



(Or straight across from 

Shizuki to Fukura, 

without going round 

by Sumoto) 4 — 9| 

Western Inland Road — 

Fukura to Koenami . . 2 10 5J 

Koenami to Minami- 

dani 3 22 8f 

Minami-dani to Gunge 3 — 7 J 
(Or from Fukura to Gunge 

via Minato and Kawa- 

kami, about 1 ri less.) 
West Coast — 

Gunge to Tsukue 3 21 8| 

Tsukue to Iwaya 2 29 6f 

Iwaya* to Kariya 2 20 6J 

Distances by Sea from Awaji 

to the Mainland — 
Iwaya to Akashi in Ha- 

rima 1 23 4 

Yura to Kada in Kishu 2 30 7 
Fukura to Muki in Awa(in 

the Island of Shikoku) 3 2 7 j 

A trip to Awaji is much to be 
recommended during the spring 
and autumn or in mild winter 
w r eather, the climate being mode- 
rately warm, the scenery pictur- 
esque, and the roads fairly good. 
Jinrikishas can be obtained almost 
everywhere. The best Inns are 
those at Sumoto (Nabeto and Ku- 
waji), Shizuki (Hirano-ya), Fukura 
(Yabuman), and Gunge (Shinkuma). 
There is also fair accommodation 
at Yura (Tanaka-ya) and at Iwaya. 
The other inns are rather poor, but 
every village affords accommoda- 
tion of some sort. The tourist who 
wishes to explore the island tho- 
roughly, is recommended to land at 
Kariya, and make the round in the 
order described below. This will 
take 3 or 4 days, according as 
steamers, hours, weather, etc., may 
fit in. Persons pressed for time 
can get a glimpse of the prettiest 
part of the scenery, which lies on 
the E. coast, by taking steamer 
from Kobe to Sumoto, and return- 
ing next morning. 

* Properly speaking, Iwaya is at the 
North-E astern extremity of the island. 
But this division of the roads is practically 
the more convenient. 



378 



Route 49. — The Island of Awaji. 



The island of Awaji is mentioned 
in the earliest Japanese legends as 
the first result of the marriage of the 
creator and creatress, Izanagi and Iza- 
nami, when they set about giving birth to 
the various islands of the Japanese archi- 
pelago. It is also related that in very 
ancient times the water for the Imperial 
Household was brought over from Awaji 
in boats ; and the beauties of the harbour 
of Yura have been sung by poets from 
time immemorial. Coming down to his- 
torical days, the unfortunate Emperor 
Junnin was exiled here in A.D. 764, 
having been deposed by his predecessor, 
the Empress Koken, a sort of Japanese 
Messalina, who added to her other ex- 
cesses a wild desire for the Imperial 
power which was not properly hers, and 
who, having once abdicated in favour of 
Junnin, wished to re-ascend the throne. 
Junnin endeavoured to escape from Awaji, 
but died there in the following year, pro- 
bably a victim to assassination. During 
the Middle Ages, the lordship of the 
island and of different portions of it 
passed successively into the hands of 
several feudal chiefs, and finally of the 
Hachisuka family and of their dependants, 
the Inada. The whole island now forms 
part of the Prefecture of Hyogo. The 
castle of Sumoto, which town has long 
been considered the capital, was con- 
structed in the middle of the 16th century 
by Ataka Fuyuyasu, a scion of the Miyo- 
shi family. 

The scene as the steamer appro- 
aches Kariya is most picturesque, — 
delightful little coves and peaceful 
nooks, pine-trees on the strand, 
small valleys stretching up towards 
verdure-clad hills, and in the dis- 
tance the hazy outline of Senzan, 
the highest mountain on the is- 
land, and of the high land beyond. 
This style of scenery, ever varied in 
its details, continues all along the 
E. coast to Sumoto and Yura; and 
jinrikishas bowl rapidly over the 
well-kept road. It will generally 
be found best to spend the first 
night at Sumoto. Those having 
another day to spare may turn off 
inland shortly after leaving Shizuki, 
and go to Sumoto via the top of 
Senzan. Jinrikishas can be en- 
gaged as far as Futatsu-ishi, 1 ri 
24 cho; but it will probably be 
more satisfactory to walk the whole 
way, taking some 6 hours. The 
country is everywhere pretty. The 
actual ascent is about 1 ri in 
length. Half-way up is the temple 



of Koshinji, which commands a fine 
view in the direction of Kobe. 
Thence to the top, the path lies 
through a wood of cherry-trees, 
oaks, firs, etc., some of the firs pre- 
senting a very curious appearance, 
the soil having worn away from their 
roots, so as to leave the latter poised 
high above the level of the sur- 
rounding ground. From the summit 
of Senzan itself there is but little 
view, owing to the trees which 
crown the mountain, and which, 
from most parts of the island, give 
it a peculiar square-topped appear- 
ance. The temple on the sum- 
mit is called Senkoji. It has a 
solid modern gate and belfry ; but' 
the Hondo, or main edifice, and the 
three-storied pagoda are old. 

Its foundation is said to date from A.D. 
901, when a hunter named Chuda, having 
shot at and hit a stag (another version 
says a boar), discovered that it was in reali- 
ty an incarnation of the merciful divinity 
Kwannon that he had thus sacrilegiously 
injured. He thereupon assumed the garb 
of a Buddhist monk and the Buddhist 
name of Jakunin, and raised a shrine to^ 
Kwannon on the spot where the incident 
had occurred. 

The way down on the side to- 
wards Sumoto brings that town 
in sight to the 1., with Kishu and 
the islets of the Kii Channel be- 
yond it, while to the r. are the 
mountains of Awa in Shikoku. 
From the base of Senzan to the 
Aiya waterfall, and thence to Su- 
moto, the path leads mostly across 
a fertile plain. Those not desirous 
of visiting the fall, which, though a 
pretty place for a picnic, is by no 
means extraordinary, can go straight 
to Sumoto from the base of Senzan, 
the distance being 1J ri'. 

The former castle of Sumoto no 
longer exists, and in its grounds a 
court-house and a prison have been 
erected. The production for which 
Sumoto is chiefly noted is a sort of 
marmalade made out of an excel- 
lent variety of orange resembling 
the Seville orange, and called Naru- 
to-mikan. It is sold in boxes with 
another pleasant sweetmeat com- 



Sumoto . Yura . Onogoro -jima. 



379 



posed of acorns, cinnamon, and 
sugar; and the two sweetmeats 
together are known by the name 
of uki-hashi, or " floating bridge," 
in allusion to the legend of Izanagi 
and Izanami mentioned below. A 
third preserve special to Sumoto 
is the biwa-no-ne, or "sound of the 
lute," which is made of plums. 
Foreigners will perhaps be inclined 
to think that it stands to the palate 
in somewhat the same relation as 
Japanese music does to the ear. 
A spare day at Sumoto might plea- 
surably be devoted to the ascent of 
Kashiwara-yama, the highest point 
of the S. range of the island, com- 
manding a very fine view inland all 
over the plains of southern Awaji, its 
distant northern hills, the sea, the 
coast of Kishu, Nushima (the odd 
islet of? Awaji), and some islets off 
the coast of Shikoku. To obtain 
this view, it is necessary to go up 
through the wood behind the tem- 
ple. From Kashiwara-yama one 
may descend to Ynra, whence there 
is a 2 n ride or walk along a beauti- 
ful shore. Here a huge fort has 
been erected to command the Kii 
Channel. 

The interest on the Southern In- 
land Eoad leading from Sumoto to 
Fukura is mainly archaeological. 
There is a curious mound called 
Onogoro-jima, i.e., the Island of 
Onogoro, at a short distance from 
the village of Yagi or Yogi, 
where the path to it diverges r. 
from the main road, and soon 
leads to a dry river-bed where it is 
necessary to alight from the jin- 
rikishas. 

A very early Japanese tradition, pre- 
served in the Kojiki, tells us that Izanagi 
and Izanami, when they were about 
to produce the Japanese archipelago, 
** stood upon the Floating Bridge of 
Heaven, pushed down the jewelled spear 
and stirred with it, whereupon, when 
they had stirred the brine till it went 
curdle-curdle {koro-lcoro) and drew the 
spear up, the brine that dripped down 
from the end of the spear was piled up 
and became an island. This is the Island 
of Onogoro.' ' 

Several islets off the coast of 



Awaji contend for the honour of 
being this first-fruit of creation ; 
and this inland claimant may well, 
by the ignorant country-people, be 
supposed to have been once itself 
an island, standing up as it does 
prominently from the surrounding 
rice-field flats. In reality there 
would seem to be little doubt as to 
its being the funeral mound of 
some very ancient prince, all me- 
mory of whom has passed away. 
There is a small shrine on it de- 
dicated to Izanagi and Izanami, 
and at the southern end of it a stone 
called the sekirei-ishi, or "wagtail 
stone," with reference to an incident 
of the creation legend for which Vol. 
Ill, Part I, Appendix, pp. 69-70, of 
the Transactions of the Asiatic 
Society of Japan may be consulted. 
A hole has been scooped out on the 
W. side of the mound by women who 
mix fragments of the earth with 
water, and drink it as a charm to 
ensure easy delivery. Almost within 
a stone's throw is a clump of reeds 
called Ashi-wara-koku. 

Ashi-tvara-no-kuni, i.e. the Land of Reed- 
Plains, is an ancient name for Japan. But 
the country-people, mistaking ashi, " a 
reed," for ashi, " the foot," have invented a 
story to the effect that this is the spot on 
which Izanami first set foot when he 
came down to earth. — Kuni and JcoJcu are 
synonyms for " land " or " country." 

After visiting Onogoro-jima, the 
jinrikishas are rejoined, and the 
hamlets of Oenami and Koenami 
passed through. The latter is 
marked by two or three very fine 
pine-trees. The pine-trees of the 
whole island, however, are those 
which form an avenue lining the 
main road for a distance of 50 cho 
just at this part of the journey. 
In order to enjoy the sight of them, 
it is worth while turning into the 
main road as soon as the avenue is 
seen to the 1. 

A further detour to the 1. is needed 
if it be intended to visit the vill. of 
Igano, where, at the establishments 
of two families called Mimpei and 
Sampei, the potteries for which 



380 



Route 49. — The Island of Awaji. 



Awaji is noted are carried on. 
Foreign visitors easily gain admit- 
tance. 

This peculiar ware was first produced 
between the years 1830 and 1840 by one 
Kaju Miuipei, a man of considerable pri- 
vate means, who devoted himself to the 
ceramic art out of pure enthusiasm. 
Directing his efforts at first to reproduc- 
ing the deep green and straw-yellow 
glazes of China, which country he visited 
in quest of information, he had exhausted 
almost his entire resources before suc- 
cess came ; and even then the public was 
slow to recognise the merits of his ware. 
Now, however, connoisseurs greatly prize 
genuine old pieces by Mimpei, some of 
which combine various colours so as to 
imitate tortoise-shell, while others have 
designs incised or in relief, or are skil- 
fully decorated with gold and silver. At 
the present day the quality of Awaji ware 
has sadly deteriorated, though Sampei 
has won prizes at exhibitions in Australia 
and elsewhere. The pieces are mostly 
monochromatic and intended for every- 
day use. 

The next object of interest on 
the road is the Tumulus of the 
unfortunate Emperor Junnin, al- 
ready mentioned. Being 202 ken in 
length and 72 ken in breadth, while 
the whole is surrounded by a moat 
and covered with a dense grove 
full of singing-birds, this tumulus 
forms a very prominent object in the 
landscape. It is commonly known 
as Tenno no Mori, that is, the Em- 
peror's Grove. That of Junnin's 
mother, Taema Fujin, lies 8 or 10 
cho away from it in a south-westerly 
direction. 

After leaving these mounds, a 
jinrikisha ride of about \ hr. brings 
us to the little sea-port town of 
Fiikura, where it will probably 
be best to spend the second night. 
The lion of the place is the 
violent rush of water through the 
Nartito Channel, which separates 
the islands of Awaji and Shikoku 
and connects the Inland Sea with 
the Pacific Ocean. It is a truly 
grand sight, and one which should 
certainly not be missed, especially 
at springtides when no junk can 
attempt the passage. Boats are fur- 
nished at a reasonable charge by the 
proprietor of the inn at Fukura ; and 



the expedition, which occupies 
from 4 to 6 hours, is attended 
by no danger, passengers being 
taken out under shelter of the 
coast to within easy distance of the 
strait, and being able to view the 
whole panorama either from the 
boat, or from some rocks on which it 
is usual to land. The best time of 
all is said to be the 3rd day of the 
3rd moon, old style (some time at 
the end of March or in the first 
half of April), when the people of 
the neighbouring districts on both 
sides of the channel take a holiday, 
and go out in boats to see the rush 
of the briny torrent. The breadth 
of the channel is estimated at 18 
cho; but some rocks in the middle 
divide it into two unequal parts, 
called respectively 0-narulo and 
Ko-naruto, i.e., the Greater and 
the Lesser Naruto. The Greater 
Naruto being on the Shikoku 
side, that side affords an even 
finer sight than is to be obtained 
from Awaji. Looking from the 
boat, if on the Awaji side, the 
province of Awa in the Island of 
Shikoku is seen in front ; to the r. 
of it stretches the long line of 
Shodoshima, well-known for its 
granite quarries; while further r., 
in the extreme distance, are the 
mountains of Harima on the main- 
land, with the little island of Ejima 
sticking up in front of them like a 
cocked hat. The rocks on the 
Awaji side are tilted up at a 
considerable angle, and are here 
and there lined with pine-trees 
which give them an appearance 
somewhat resembling that of a 
painting in the Chinese style. For 
soft winning beauty, however, 
neither this nor any part of the 
W. Coast, excepting towards the 
North, is comparable to the E. 
Coast of the island. On the way 
back, the boatman may suggest 
landing at Kemuri-shima and at 
Susaki, the two islets in Fukura 
harbour; but it is hardly worth 
while to do so. Kemuri-shima is the 
high, thickly wooded islet, Susaki 



Western Const. 



381 



the low sandy one. At the summit 
of the former is an insignificant 
shrine dedicated to the goddess 
Kwannon. 

On leaving Fukura it is best to 
take jinrikisha to Minato, a dis- 
tance called 2J ri of 50 cho each, 
but more probably 2J ordinary ri 
of 36 cho. The first part of the 
road leads near the Mound of the 
Emperor Junnin, but turns off to 
the 1. skirting the W. side of the 
valley. The prettiest part of the 
ride — for jinrikishas can be taken 
— lies along the embankment of a 
small river flowing some feet above 
the level of the surrounding plain, 
of which a fine view is ob- 
tained, with Senzan marked by 
a clump of trees on its summit and 
the mountains of Harima in the 
extreme distance. The village of 
Minato is remarkable for its salt 
factories, and for a temple dedicated 
to Kwannon which resembles a 
small fortified castle. From here 
it is possible to proceed either under 
the shadow of the pine-trees by the 
beach (locally famous under the 
name of Kei no Matsubara), or else 
to strike inland. The views obtain- 
ed here embrace the coast of Harirna, 
the island of Shodoshima, and the 
mountains of Awa behind Shodo- 
shima. 

The village of Itawakami is also 
known as Tenjin, from the name 
of a temple — formerly a very fine 
one — which it contains. There is 
fair accommodation at the Tama-ya 
inn, where the third night should 
be spent if it is too late to push on 
further. On the way hence to 
Gunge, it may be worth while for 
those who wish to see the largest 
Shinto temple on the island to 
turn aside a few cho from the main 
road to visit the Ichi-no-miya, as it 
is called, in the vill. of Taga. 
The deity worshipped is Izanagi. 
The third night will probably best 
be spent at Gunge. From Gunge 
onwards — the whole way to Iwaya 
and Kariya — the road leads by the 
sea. Insignificant at first, the view 



gradually gains in beauty. The 
path mounts, little promontories 
stretch out into the sea, pine-trees 
extend their fantastically contorted 
shapes toward the waves, to the 1. 
lies Shodoshima, and ahead and to 
the r. the already often-mentioned 
but ever varying outline of the 
blue mountains of Harima, with, in 
the faint distance, the snow-capped 
Tamba range. Beyond the little 
hamlet of Murotsu, the screen of 
hills forming the backbone of Awaji 
itself retires a little from the strand, 
giving green upland glimpses of field 
and valley. 

Frorn Xsukue, sailing boats are 
frequently to be found starting for 
Akashi on the mainland, the fare 
being a few sen per head in a boat 
calculated to hold a dozen or twenty 
people. In fine weather this is a 
very pleasant way of finishing 
the journey, the passage averaging 
a couple of hours, and the views 
being delightful. The whole hori- 
zon is alive with the white sails of 
junks going up and down the 
Inland Sea. Those to whom a sea 
journey is pleasant only in propor- 
tion to its shortness will do best 
to cross to Maiko from Matsuo, a 
hamlet at the northern extremity 
of the island, not far from the light- 
house. 

The trip might be shortened 
and a night saved by taking 
steamer direct from Kobe to Su- 
moto, and by omitting the expedi- 
tion to the Naruto whirlpool ; but 
it would be a great pity to miss the 
latter, which is a sight unique in 
Japan. 



382 



Route 50. — The Inland Sea. 



ROUTE 50. 

The Inland Sea and the Chief 
Places on or near its Northern 
Shore. 
.1. general information. 2. 
means of communication : the 
sanyo railway, steamers. 3. 
voyage down the inland sea 
by mail steamer. 4. northern 
shore : okayama, fukuyama, 
tomotsu, onomichi, mihara, 
takehara, kure, hiroshima, 
miyajima, iwakuni, mitajiri, 
yamaguchi, toyoura, shimono- 
seki, moji. 

1. — General Information. 
The Inland Sea is the name 
given to the water space lying 
between the Main Island on the 
North, and the islands of Shikoku 
and Kyushu on the South. It com- 
municates with the open sea by the 
Naruto passage and Akashi Strait 
on the East, by the Bungo Channel 
between Shikoku and Kyushu, and 
by the Strait of Shimonoseki at 
the western end. It is about 240 
miles long from Akashi Strait to 
Shimonoseki, its greatest width 
opposite the Bungo Channel being 
about 40 m., while it narrows to 
8 m. where the province of Bizen 
approaches that of Sanuki in longi- 
tude 134°. The Japanese divided 
it into five open spaces or Nada, 
which, named from East to West, 
are as follows : Harima Nada, 
Bingo Nada, Mishima Nada, Iyo 
Nada, and Suwo Nada. Harima 
Nada is divided from Bingo Nada 
by an archipelago of islands, rocks, 
and shoals, through which the 
passage for ships narrows in some 
places to a few hundred yards. Bin- 
go Nada is divided from Mishima 
Nada, and the latter from Iyo Nada 
in the same manner, and here the 
channel is even narrower, notably at 
one place where there is only just 
room for two ships to pass abreast. 



The Inland Sea affords the most 
direct route from Kobe to Naga- 
saki and Shanghai. For vessels 
proceeding anywhere to the west- 
ward it offers a smooth water 
passage, by which the uncertain 
weather and stormy seas of the 
outer passage may be avoided. No 
doubt the intricacies of the channels 
may present some disadvantages 
to mariners, but to the traveller the 
smoothness of the water and the 
continuously varying and pictur- 
esque scenery are an unfailing source 
of pleasure and comfort throughout 
its entire length. The larger islands 
are mountainous ; and although 
(differing in this from most parts of 
Japan) they lack timber, the effec- 
tive contrast of light and shade gives 
colour to the background. The 
smaller islands are of every con- 
ceivable fantastic shape, some 
being mere rocks, while others at- 
tain to considerable height and size. 
Nearly all are inhabited by a half- 
farming, half-fishing population. 
The shores are lined with villages, the 
hillsides laid out in fields, and the 
waters studded with trading junks 
and fishing-boats. According to 
Japanese accounts, the total number 
of islands amounts to some thou- 
sands, though it is a puzzle to know 
how they were ever counted. Another 
puzzle to the European visitor, to 
whom the Inland Sea has become a 
household word, is the fact that the 
Japanese themselves have no corres- 
ponding name in common use. The 
terms Seto no uchi (lit. " within the 
channels ") and Nai-ka% (" inner 
sea ") are mere inventions of modern 
chart-makers, intended to translate 
the English name. Neither have 
the Japanese poets ever raved over 
this lovely portion of their native 
country. Only Suma and Akashi at 
its eastern end seem to have 
arrested their attention. All the 
greater reason why foreigners should 
do it justice. 

The fish and shell-fish of the 
Inland Sea enjoy a great reputation 
with Japanese gourmets. 



Sanyo Railway. Steamers. 



883 



2. — Means of Communication. 

A line of railway, called the San- 
yo Railway, is in process of con- 
struction along the northern shore 
of the Inland Sea, starting from 
Kobe, passing through Himeji, 
Okayama, Onomichi, Hiroshima, 
and Iwakuni, and ending at Shimo- 
noseki. It is intended to connect 
with the Kyushu Railway, which 
starts from Moji on the opposite 
side of the straits and is ultimately 
meant to terminate at Nagasaki. 
Up to the present (1894), only the 
following portion of the Sanyo line 
has been opened to traffic. 

Sanyo Railway. 



<d 






hi 

-p Co 

ft 


Names. 




of 
Stations. 


Remarks. 




KOBE. 




1 in. 


Hyogo. 




4| 

8 
12 
16 


Sunia 


See p. 290. 


Maiko 


Akashi 


Okubo. 


20 


Tsuchiyama. 




24£ 


Kakogawa. 




29 


Amida. 




34 


HIMEJI. 




401 


Aboshi. 




44 


Tatsuno. 




47 


Naba. 




52 


line. 




63* 


Mitsuishi. 




68 


Yoshinaga. 




71* 


Wake. 




79* 


Seto. 




84* 


Nagaoka. 




S9 


OKAYAMA. 




93| 


Niwase. 




99 


Kurashiki. 




104| 


Tamasliima. 




LlOf 


Kamogata. 




116* 


Kasaoka. 




125* 


Fukuyama. 




13 If 


Matsunaga. 




137f 


ONOMICHI. 




143| 


Mihara 


j Present 
i terminus. 




152 


Hongo 




159* 

165 

170* 

180$ 

186J 

1904 


Kochi 


To be op en- 
| ed in sum- 
r mer of 

1894. 


Shiraichi 


Tokkaichi 


Shimoseno 


Kaidaichi 


HIROSHIMA..... 



The run from Kobe to Mihara 
takes 8 hrs. The first f hr. 



through Suma, Maiko, and Akashi 
are delightful ; but after that, the 
line leads over an uninteresting 
plain or between low hills mostly 
bare of vegetation and excluding 
all distant view. At Kasaoka there 
is a refreshing peep of the sea, 
which again comes into sight to- 
wards the end of the journey be- 
tween Matsunaga and Mihara. 
The passing glimpse of the castles 
of Himeji, Okayama, and especially 
Fukuyama, also affords some varie- 
ty. But take it altogether, the 
Sanyo is a dull line, and though of 
course useful to men of business, 
cannot be recommended to tourists 
as a means of seeing the Inland Sea. 
The charms of the latter can 
be infinitely better appreciated 
from shipboard. Those whom a 
general glance at the scenery con- 
tents, or to whom first-rate accom- 
modation is a sine qud non, will 
do best to take passage from 
Kobe to Nagasaki in one of the 
mail steamers. The course usually 
taken and the chief points passed 
are described in the following sec- 
tion. Persons tolerant of less good 
accommodation, and desirous to do 
the Inland Sea and its shores more 
thoroughly, have innumerable small 
coasting steamers at their disposal. 
It is impossible to give a schedule 
of these, as not only do the hours 
of sailing and the ports of call vary 
according to the freight offering, but 
the companies themselves frequent- 
ly change. Among the ports touch- 
ed at are Takamatsu, Tadotsu, 
Imabari, Mitsu-ga-hama, Tomotsu, 
Onomichi, Takehara, Ondo, Kure, 
Hiroshima, Iwakuni, Yanai, Muro- 
zu, Tokuyama, Mitajiri,_Shimono- 
seki, Moji, Beppu, Oita, and 
Saganoseki. The steamers also 
call at many places outside the 
limits of the Inland Sea, such as 
Uwajima and Kochi in Shikoku; 
Hagi, Hamada, Esaki, and Sakai 
on the Sea of Japan ; Hakata and 
Kagoshima in Kyushu; Iki, Tsu- 
shima, and Fusan. The starting- 
point of some of these steamers 



384 



Route 50. — The Inland Sea. 



is Osaka, but most call in at Kobe. 
Notices are generally not issued 
till the day of sailing. Punctuality 
is rarely observed, and all the ar- 
rangements are so peculiarly Japa- 
nese that only those who have had 
some experience of the country and 
its customs are advised to embark 
on a lengthy tour by this means. 
In any case a hammock chair will 
be found useful. Slippers, too, 
should be kept handy, as boots 
must be taken off on entering the 
cabin, the same as in Japanese 
houses and for the same reason. 
The native cuisine is generally pretty 
good of its kind, but the meals are 
often served at startling hours. 

3. — Voyage down the Inland Sea 
by Japan Mail Steamship Com- 
pany's Steamee. 

In describing the steamer route, 
our remarks will be confined to the 
points which are immediate to the 
track. 

Soon after leaving the anchorage 
at Kobe, Wada Point is rounded, 
the ship is steered close along the 
land for Akashi Strait, and at 1 
hour* is close off the lighthouse on 
the 1., with the town of Akashi on 
the r. After passing through the 
straits, the track edges a little to 
the south to clear a dangerous shoal 
on the r., and crosses the Harima 
Nada. The ship is now fairly with- 
in the Inland Sea, with the large 
islands of Awaji and Shikoku on the 
1. and the first group of lesser is- 
lands ahead. (For description of 
Awaji, see Koute 49; for Shikoku, 
see Routes 51 — 55.) 

At 4 hrs. she enters the first of 
the intricate passages. The large 
island on the r. is Shodoshima, 
with a rocky, indented shore and 
well-cultivated slopes. The course 
leads within a mile of its southern 

* The expressions "at 1 hour," ".at 2 
hours," etc., in the description of this 
voyage signify, " when the steamer has 
been 1 hour out of Kobe," "2 hours out of 
Kobe," etc., taking 12 knots per hour as 
the average speed. 



extremity, the coast of Shikoku 
being about 3 m. to the 1. Prom 
here the ship turns a little to the 
north, and soon after the castle- 
town of Takamatsu opens out on 
the 1., at the head of a deep bay. 
At 5 hrs. Ogishima, with high cliffs 
descending straight into 15 fathoms 
of water, is passed within a stone's 
throw on the left. Oki and Teshi- 
ma on the r. both produce copper 
ore, and the surface workings may 
be observed in passing. From 
Ogishima very careful piloting is 
necessary to carry the ship safely 
amongst the numerous shoals and 
islets that line both sides of the track. 
At 6 hrs. the lighthouse on the S.E. 
end of Nabeshima (also called Yo- 
shima) is passed, when the castle- 
towns of Sakaide and Marugame 
will be visible on the 1. At this 
point the situation is particularly 
interesting. The ship is completely 
landlocked, and to the uninitiated 
there appears to be no way between 
the rocks and islets with which the 
sea is studded. The ship swings 
round point after point, passing 
villages near enough to watch the 
doings of their inhabitants, and 
threatens to swamp some fishing- 
boat at every turn . Through all these 
narrows the tides rush with a velo- 
city of from 4 to 6 knots, adding 
greatly to the difficulty of naviga- 
tion. At times the vessel can hard- 
ly stem the rush of water, and heels 
from side to side as it catches her 
on either bow. 

After Nabeshima, Ushijima is 
passed either N. or S., and at 7 hrs. 
the sViip will be abreast of Takami- 
shima, lofty, with a clump of pines 
hiding a temple on the summit. 
The shore of Shikoku now projects 
as a long promontory, forming the 
eastern boundary of the Bingo 
Nada. In the bight to the left is 
the trefoil-shaped island of Awa- 
shima, whose northern extremity 
is passed within a stone's throw. 
The glasses will give a good view of 
Tadotsu, formerly the residence of 
a Daimyo, bearing south. If Ushi- 



Steamer Voyage. 



385 



jima is passed on the north side, 
the shores of Honshima and Hiro- 
shima will be very close on the 
right, and a curious rock only 10 
ft. above water on the 1. At 7J hrs. 
the first narrows are cleared, and 
the ship enters the Bingo Nada. 

From this point there are two 
routes leading through the archi- 
pelago that separates the Bingo 
Nada from the Mishima Nada, — 
one to the north, passing north of 
the islands and having the shore 
of the mainland on the right, 
one to the southward of the islands, 
having the shore of Shikoku on the 
left. The northern passage, which 
is by far the more interesting of the 
two, is longer by 8 miles ; and for 
3 hrs. the ship winds in and out 
of extremely intricate channels, 
which at the widest are not more 
than 2 miles across, and in some 
places not a hundred yards. The 
channel is entered at 8J hours, 
passing close to the south of Yoko- 
shima. Then the track turns to 
the north, between Innoshima, a 
large island 1,250 feet high on the 
1., and Mukaijima on the r., where 
the channel is just 100 yards across. 
It opens out a little off Mihara, a 
castle-town of some importance, 
which is seen on the right at about 
9 hrs. Thence the track turns to 
the southward, and narrows again. 
At 10J hrs. the ship is off Osaki- 
shima r., with a small rocky islet 
on the 1., and shortly after the track 
joins that of the southern route. 

If the southern passage be taken, 
the ship passes between two high 
islands with bare precipitous sides, 
at 8J hrs. Next a small group of 
rocky islets is passed on the 1., and 
the town of Imabari on the coast 
of Shikoku comes in sight ahead. 
At about 10 hrs. the track turns 
sharp to the northward, between 
Oshima on the r. and Shikoku on 
the 1. These narrows are particu- 
larly interesting, especially if the 
tide happen to be running strongly 
in the opposite direction. At the 
narrowest part, less than 100 yards 



wide, the vessel swerves from side 
to side. ' Hard a port ! ' and ' Hard 
a starboard ! ' are the continual 
cries. If the vessel has not suffi- 
cient speed, she may be turned right 
round. Indeed, one steaming even 
10 knots has been known to be 
obliged to go back and wait for a 
fair tide, and large swirls have 
sometimes been observed measur- 
ing 6ft. across and 10ft. deep. After 
two or three miles in a northerly 
direction, the track turns to the 
westward. Here the ship is again 
completely landlocked, the moun- 
tainous islands of Oshima and O- 
mishima on the r., Shikoku on 
the 1., and Osaki-shima ahead 
closing in the prospect on all sides. 
But after passing the extreme 
northern point of the province of 
Iyo, with its white outlying rocks, 
the view opens out, and at 11 
hrs. the track by the northern 
passage is joined. 

The course now turns southward 
again along the shore of Shikoku, 
where the mountain ranges are well- 
wooded, and the highest peaks tip- 
ped with snow as early as December. 
At 12 hrs. the coast of Shikoku is 
again approached within 2 miles. 
A little later, the ship threads her 
way through another narrow passage 
between Gogoshima on the 1. and 
Mutsuki and Nakashima on the 
right. Just behind Gogoshima lies 
Mitsu-ga-hama, one of the chief 
ports of the province of Iyo. Mu- 
tsuki is passed close enough to dis- 
tinguish the workings from which 
the material for manufacturing 
porcelain is obtained. Leaving Go- 
goshima behind, another small is- 
land comes in sight with a light- 
house, whose light is visible 20 miles. 
Then the ship is fairly in the Iyo 
Nada, and at 13 hrs. is nearly up to 
Yurishima, a curious double i^la.nd 
consisting of two hills respectively 
400 ft. and 200 ft. high, joined by a 
narrow sand-bank. This island may 
be passed on either side. Eight 
miles beyond it is another steep 
island, and at 14£ hrs. Yashima, 



386 



Route 50, — The Inland Sea. 



500 ft. high, is passed very closely. 
At this point the Bungo Channel 
opens to the southward, and the 
track turns a little to the north, 
passing Uwashima at some distance 
and Himejima within a few miles. 
From here the track lies through the 
Suwo Nada, midway between Kyu- 
shu and the mainland, and, being 
unrelieved by smaller islands, pos- 
sesses no features of special interest. 
At 18 hrs. a r^d buoy marking the 
edge of a bank is passed on the right, 
and the track turns north for Shi- 
monoseki. Here the land draws to- 
gether on both sides, forming the 
Straits of Shimonoseki which vary 
from 4 m. to 1 m. in width, and 
are further narrowed by numerous 
shoals and sand-banks. At 19 hrs. 
the ship rounds Isaki on the L, and 
threads her way through the shal- 
lows past the town of Shimonoseki 
r., with Moji 1. The steamer track 
skirts the flat shore, winds round 
the south of Hikushima, turns to 
the north-west, and then due north 
towards the island of Rokuren. 
The whole channel is well-lighted 
and marked ; but the strong tides 
which rush through render it even 
more difficult to navigate safely 
than any other part of the Inland 
Sea. Some of the Nippon Yusen 
Kwaisha's steamers stop off Shimo- 
noseki for an hour or so to land 
mails, etc. Not counting this stop- 
page, the ship will be off Rokuren 
and fairly through the Inland Sea 
at 20 hrs. 

As almost all travellers go on to 
Nagasaki — indeed must do so un- 
less they have special passports — 
the description of the route is con- 
tinued on to that port. 

From Rokuren the track turns 
west, close past Shiroshima ; then 
gradually south. At 22 hrs. the 
ship is about 1 m. off Koshime-no- 
Oshima (Wilson's Island). The 
coast of Kyushu now extends south- 
ward on the left— bold, rugged, and 
deeply indented, with numerous 
harbours, outlying islands, and a 
background of lofty mountains. At 



24 hrs. the desolate, rocky islet of 
Eboshi-jima (Hat Island), with its 
lighthouse, is close at hand, due 
south of which, on the shores of a 
deep bay, lie the coal-fields of 
Karatsu, and the district where the 
celebrated Hizen porcelain is 
manufactured. Eight miles away 
on the r. is the large island of Iki, 
with several small rocky islets 
nearer in the same direction. 

From Eboshi-jima the track turns 
gradually to the south, passing 
Kagara-shima and Madara-shima. 
At 28 hrs. the N.E. end of Hirado 
is close at hand, and Doshima 1 m. 
on the left. Hirado is 15 m. long, 
narrow and hilly, trending N.N.E. 
and S.S.W. It is separated from 
Kyushu by a narrow channel of J 
m., which is in effect narrowed to a 
few yards by rocks, and is called 
Spex Straits. 

Steamers sometimes take this 
course, if tide and weather are 
completely favourable ; but gene- 
rally they keep along the W. 
shore of Hirado, and pass between 
it and Ikutsuki-shima by what is 
known to mariners as the Obree 
Channel. Nakano-shima, an islet 
rising straight out of the water off 
the S.W. end of Hirado, is closely 
skirted, and the course changed to 
S.E. at 29J hrs. Ho-age (Sail Rock) 
is 1 m. on the left, and the whole 
group of the Goto Islands (see Route 
67) in the distance on the right. 
Shortly after Ho-age, and on the 
same side, is seen a beacon painted 
red and white, to mark a dangerous 
sunken rock. At 30 hrs. the islets 
of Odate and Kodate are on the 
right, and Mitoko on the left. 
Off the south-east of the latter is 
a small flat islet with pine-trees. 
A little south again, in the main 
island of Kyushu, is a remarkable 
conical hill, with a clump of trees 
on the summit closely resembling a 
field officer's cocked hat and plume. 
Next we pass Matsushima, which is 
of considerable size and partly 
covered with pine-trees, whence 
its name. It is terraced for culti- 



Okayama, Fukuyama, Onomiehi. 



887 



vation to the very summit, and has 
a village half-way up its slope. 
This point passed, the track takes 
a sharp turn to the S. and back 
to S.E. again between Ikeshima 
and Haka or Hiki-shima ; and 
when the ship is 2 m. due south 
of the latter, a good view of a 
remarkable arched rock standing 
straight up out of the water is 
obtained. From here Iwoshima is 
straight ahead, with the lighthouse 
just visible. To the right of the 
lighthouse is Takashima, noted for 
its coal-mines (see Route 57). At 
31 hrs. the ship is midway between 
Iwoshima and the mainland, and 
soon after enters a cluster of islets 
off the mouth of Nagasaki harbour. 
Bounding Pappenberg, the ship 
turns sharp to the 1. into the 
harbour, and at 32 hrs. is generally 
at anchor. 

The chief distances of the run 
through the Inland Sea from Kobe 
to Nagasaki, as taken by the Nip- 
pon Yusen Kivaisha's steamers, are 
as follows : — 

KOBE to :— Miles. 

Hyogo Point 2 

Akashi Straits 12 

Nabeshima 73 

Ushijima 75J 

Nakashima 143 

Yurishima . . . . 154 

Yashima 175 

Himejima 198 

SHIMONOSEKI 239 

Rokuren 248 

Shiroshima . ^ 257 

Koshime-no-Oshima 275 

Eboshi-jima 300 

Obree Channel 334 

Nakanoshima 346 

Arched Rock 371 

NAGASAKI 387 

4. — Places of Interest on the 
Northern Shore of the In- 
land Sea. 

Himeji (see p. 290). 

Okayainsi (Ifms, *Miyoshino, near 
Railway Station; Jiyusha ; Europ. 
restt. Daikoku-ya), capital of the 



prefecture of the same name and 
of the province of Bizen, lies 2J ri 
inland from its port, Samban (Inn, 
Yamacho), along an excellent jin- 
rikisha road. No portion of this 
coast shows more clearly the rapid 
encroachment of the land on the 
sea, and a scheme has been mooted 
for draining the large bay of Ko- 
jima-wan. The Castle has now 
been restored to its former lord, the 
Daimyo Ikeda, and is shown for a 
small fee. The Koraku-En Garden, 
celebrated throughout Japan, de- 
serves its reputation, — not being a 
semi-Europeanised bit of formality 
and bad taste, like the " Public 
Gardens " of so many modern 
Japanese cities, but the spacious 
and charming pleasaunce of the lords 
of the castle close to which it lies. 
There are bridges, hills, lakes, and 
summer-houses. These latter may 
be hired of the custodian for those 
picnic parties in which the Japanese 
take such delight, — cherry-blossoms, 
plum-blossoms, wistarias, maples, 
palmettos, and four tame cranes, 
one of which is believed to be two 
hundred years old. 

Fukuyama (Inn, Yoshino-tei), 
capital of the province of Bingo, 
was the seat of a Daimyo called 
Abe Ise-no-Kami, whose castle, 
in an unusually good state of pre- 
servation, is well seen from the 
railway. This province produces 
the upper covering or outside layers 
(Bingo-omote) of the ordinary house 
mats which are used all over Japan ; 
whole fields planted with them are 
passed by. 

Tossiotsu has a small harbour 
protected by piers, and offers charm- 
iDg island scenery. It is noted for 
its sake distilleries. 

Onomiehi ( Inns, Hamakichi, 
with branch near Station ; Hirao) 
has unusually plentiful steam com- 
munication. It is a prosperous, 
bustling place, stretching along the 
shore of a long narrow strait that 
looks like a winding river. The 
shore is lined with godowns. It is 
a city of narrow lanes and of fine, 



388 



Route 50. — The Inland Sea. 



but decaying temples, of which the 
two best are Senkdji and Saikokuji. 
Flights of steps that seem endless 
lead up to the former, which stands 
near the top of a very steep hill. 
Huge granite blocks jut out quaint- 
ly from the soil, helping to form a 
picture at once weird and beautiful. 
The view, too, is fine, a prominent 
feature being the island of Mukai- 
jima, or Shichi-ri-ga-shima, plaster- 
ed up, if one may use such a term, 
against the mainland, and thus 
forming the river-like harbour. 
Saikokuji, a branch of the great 
monastery of Koya-san, is very 
stately with its big stone walls. 
Indeed, the temple architecture of 
all this district derives powerful aid 
from the granite of the shores of 
the Inland Sea. 

Miliara (inferior accommodation) 
possesses the remains of the castle of 
the former Daimyo Asano Kai-no- 
Kami. From here westwards, the 
northern shore of the Inland Sea 
forms a striking contrast to the 
wooded and smiling coasts of Shi- 
koku and Kyushu that lie opposite. 
It is arid and infertile, and the hills 
have great bare patches like a beggar's 
skin showing through his tatters. 

Takehara ( Inn, Fukui) is a pretty 
harbour lying amid high hills. The 
houses are on the beach. 

The coasting steamers pass 
through the extraordinarily narrow 
strait of On do, in the midst of 
which stands a stone monument to 
the tyrant Kiyomori, before reach- 
ing 

Kure (Inns, Kikkawa, in the 
town ; Hdraisha, at the actual port, 
25 cho distant), an important naval 
station, snugly situated at the base 
of cultivated hills. One and a half 
ri distant is the island of Ktajima, 
where stands the Imperial Naval 
College, an admirably conducted in- 
stitution for the education of cadets. 

Hiroshima (Inns, * Kikkawa, with 
branch at Ujina ; Naganuma ; Oka- 
moto, Europ. restt.), capital of the 
province of Aki and seat of a pre- 
fecture, stands at the mouth of the 



Otagawa in a fine position, protected 
by hills from the northern blasts. 

Before the establishment of the Sho- 
gunate in the 12th century, Hiroshima be- 
longed to Kiyomori, the powerful and un- 
scrupulous head of the Taira clan (see p. 
58). At the beginning of the 17th century, 
the fief passed into the hands of the Asano 
family, who retained it bill the mediatisa- 
tion of the Daimyos in 1871. The Asanos 
were often spoken of as the Princes of Gei- 
shu, Geishu or Aki being the name of the 
province in which Hiroshima is situated.. 
Their garden is one of the most charming 
examples of the horticultural ar£ in 
Japan. 

The approach to Hiroshima by- 
sea is noted for its beauty. From 
the little port of Ujina to the town, 
is a distance of 50 cho along a good 
jinrikisha road. Hiroshima is a 
brisk and busy place, the most 
important town to the west of 
Kobe, and resembles Osaka in ap- 
pearance, owing to the numerous 
canals that intersect it. It is a 
centre for dealers in lacquer, bronze, 
and most other species of artistic 
work. Excepting the five-storied 
keep (tensliu), which can only be 
visited by special permission of the 
military authorities, little now re- 
mains of the old Castle but the 
space which it and its dependent 
buildings once occupied. Parts of 
this very extensive space are now 
used as parade grounds for the garri- 
son. Behind the castle is the Public 
Park (Kden), which affords a de- 
lightful place of recreation to the 
citizens. It contains some tem- 
ples called Nigi-tsu-Jinja, dedi- 
cated to the ancestors of the 
Asano family, whose crest of two 
hawks' feathers crossed is comme- 
morated, not only on the lanterns 
and other surrounding objects, but 
in the name of Futa-ba-yama, the 
hill rising immediately behind. 
The tea-houses on the top afford 
a beautiful view. In the plain 
below lies Hiroshima, iirtersected 
by the five arms of the Otagawa ; 
to the 1. is the sea ; to the r. 
rises a conical-shaped hill called 
the Aki Fuji-san, and further 
to the r. Hiji-yama; in front 



Miyajima. 



389 



is the long road running down to- 
wards the pine-clad islet in the 
harbour ; beyond all spreads the 
sea, glittering amidst rocky islands, 
chief of which is Miyajima with 



its feathery peaks ; o n the dim 
horizon are the Suwo hills. The 
annual festival of the Nigi-tsu-Jinja 
is held on the 15th day of the 9th 
moon, old style. 





Miyajima {Inns, *Momiji-ya, ltd). 

Travellers bound for Miyajima 
from the east may best reach it 
from Hiroshima by taking jinriki- 
sha to Ajina (do not confound this 
with Ujina, the port of Hiroshima), 
4 ri along an excellent road with 
delicious scenery, whence by !row- 
boat across the channel (under 2 
m.) separating the island from the 
mainland. Those from the west 
will reach it from Shin-Minato or 
Iwakuni by ijinrikisha to Ono, also 
4 ri, whence boat. The objective 
point in either case is the vill. that 
has grown up around the temple. 
If Miyajima be only taken en route 
up or down the Inland Sea, the 
traveller will save time by keeping 
his boat, and meanwhile sending 
forward his jinrikisha to Ajina or 
Ono, as the case may be. 



390 



Route 50. — The Inland Sea. 



Miyajima, also called Itsuku- 
shima, is a sacred island, and one of 
the San-kei, or " Three Chief Sights" 
of Japan in native estimation. The 
island rises to a height of about 
1,500 ft., and is very rocky and 
thickly wooded. Many small hut 
lovely valleys trend down to the 
sea, and in these, among groves of 
maple-trees, nestle the inns and 
tea-houses for pilgrims and the 
dwellings of the fishermen and 
image-carvers, who, with the priests 
and innkeepers, make up a popula- 
tion of some three thousand. Miya- 
jima is a charming summer resort, 
the temperature being never very 
high, the sea and fresh-water bath- 
ing excellent, and the walks nume- 
rous. The abundance of conifers, 
the disintegrating granite soil, and 
the total absence of agriculture, 
combine to keep the air singularly 
pure and the water limpid. A few 
deer still linger on the island, and 
feed out of the hands of the passers- 

by- 

The temple of Miyajima enjoys 
great celebrity. The torii in front 
of it, which stands in the sea, is a 
favourite motive of Japanese art ; 
and the temple itself, being partly 
built out over the sea on piles, ap- 
pears at high tide to float upon the 
surface of the water. This effect is 
marred when the tide goes out. A 
characteristic feature of the temple 
is its gallery (Kivairo) 108 ken long, 
hung with ex-votos. Many of these 
are old pictures by famous artists ; 
but even so secluded a spot as 
Miyajima has not altogether escap- 
ed modern vulgarity, as is attested, 
inter alia, by a hideous daub of the 
Eiffel Tower ! The yearly festival 
is celebrated on the 17th day of 
the 6th moon, old calendar. 

The temple is dedicated to three Shinto 
goddesses, daughters of Susa-no-o, from 
the eldest of whom, named Ichiki-shima- 
Hime or Itsukushima-Hime, the alter- 
native name of tho island is fabled to be 
derived. According to tradition, the first 
erection of a temple on the presont site 
dates from the reign of the Empress Suiko 
(A.D. 593—628) ; but all the early archives 
of Miyajima were lost in a great fire which 



occurred in 1548, and nothing certain can 
be learnt from other sources regarding its- 
vicissitudes before the 12th century. At 
that time Kiyomori, who practically 
ruled the empire, restored it in such style 
as to gain for it the reputation of the most 
magnificent structure in Western Japan. 
Several Mikados, the Ashikaga Sho- 
guns, and the great Daimyos of Geishu, 
Choshu, and other neighbouring pro- 
vinces were counted among the bene- 
factors of the place and worshippers at 
the shrine. Here, as elsewhere, the Bud- 
dhist priests were compelled to withdraw 
on the "purification " of the Ryobu Shin- 
to shrines in 1871, when several of the 
buildings were pulled down. Several 
others were burnt in 18S7, and the rest 
are hastening to that decay which so soon 
overtakes all wooden architecture when 
constant care is withdrawn. 

Ancient religious rule forbade all births 
and deaths on the island. Should a birth 
unexpectedly take place, it is still usual 
to send the woman away to the mainland 
for thirty days; and though patients in 
extremis are no longer removed, all corpses 
are at once sent across the strait for inter- 
ment at Ono, where likewise the chief 
mourners remain during fifty days for 
ceremonial purification. No dogs are 
allowed on the island. 

Those with time on hand may 
climb up 18 cho to the Oku-no-in, at. 
the top of one of the chief peaks. 
But no longer are any great religi- 
ous buildings left there, nor is the 
sacred fire which was lighted by 
Kobo Daishi and has never since 
been suffered to go out, main- 
tained now-a-days with any pomp. 
Like several other places in Japan, 
Miyajima has its "seven wonders"" 
(nana-fushigi), mostly insignificant.. 

Slim-ffinafo (Inn, Fukuoka) is 
the port for Iwakuni, from which 
it is 1 ri 26 cho (4 J m.) distant 
by an excellent jinrikisha road. 

Iwakuni (Inn, Komehei) is a bust- 
ling place, formerly the castle-town 
of a Daimyo called Kikkawa. Where 
his castle stood, there is now a 
temple dedicated to Kato Kiyomasa. 
Iwakuni is noted for its manufac- 
ture of silk, paper, cotton, mats, 
and mosquito-nets. The great stone 
bridge called Kintaikyo, spanning 
the Nishiki-gawa, is famed through- 
out Western Japan. It is built in 
five semi-circular arches — difficult 



From Iwakuni to Shimonoseki. 



391 



to cross, but picturesque to look at. 
It measures about 150 ft. in length, 
and has lead for cement. 

The former custom was to repair 
thoroughly one of the arches every five 
years, so that once in twenty-five years 
the whole structure was renewed. 

Mitajiri (Inn, Kashiwagi) has 
but a bad port, and the town is 1 m. 
from the landing-place. A capital 
jinrikisha road leads hence to the 
busy town of 

Uliyaichi, 31 chd, which boasts 
a celebrated temple of Tenjin, with 
grounds charmingly laid out on a 
hillside. Hence it is 4 ri 22 chd 
more, or 13J m. altogether from 
Mitajiri, over the partly tunnelled 
hill called Sabayama to 

Yamaguchi (Inn, Fujimura), 
capital of the prefecture of the same 
name and of the province of Suwo. 
The hot springs of Yuda in the 
S.W. suburb of the town possess 
some local fame ; but imprisoned 
as it is within hills mostly bare, 
bleak in winter and glaring in sum- 
mer, Yamaguchi has nothing to 
detain the visitor except its pious 
memories. 

Yamaguchi was an important Christian 
centre during the latter half of the 16th 
century, the mission there having been 
founded by St. Francis Xavier himself. 
(See Mr. Ernest Satow's elaborate paper 
on the "Vicissitudes of the Church at 
Yamaguchi from 1550 to 1586," in Vol. 
VII. of the Transactions of the Asiatic 
Society of Japan. ) More latterly the noble 
house of Choshu, which had its seat here, 
became a very powerful factor in Japa- 
nese politics. Since the Revolution, the 
Choshu clan has divided with that of 
Satsuma the chief direction of public af- 
fairs. The peasantry of the Yamaguchi 
prefecture furnish a large proportion of 
the emigrants who have been sent to 
Hawaii during the last few years under 
the joint protection of the Japanese and 
Hawaiian governments. 

Toyoura, sometimes called Ghofu 
(Inn, Yoshida-ya). 

Here, according to tradition, is the 
burial place of Chuai Tenno, a Mikado 
who is said to have ruled Japan at the 
end of the 2nd century of our era. His 
consort, Jingo Kogo, had a revelation 
from Heaven one day, while her husband 
was playing on the lute, that there existed 
to the westward a fair land, dazzling with 
gold and silver — the land of Korea— which 



the Japanese sovereign was divinely com- 
manded to conquer and add to his do- 
mains. But Chuai would not believe the 
message. "If," said he, "one ascend to 
a high place and look westward, no land 
is to be seen. There is only the great 
sea; your deities are lying deities." For 
this his disbelief and disobedience, he 
was smitten by the gods with sudden 
sickness and death, and his consort was 
left to carry out the expedition (see p. 57). 

At Toyoura itself there is little 
to see ; but the walk of nearly 
2 ri to Shimonoseki is beautiful. 
Just before getting to the narrows 
that afterwards open out to form 
Shimonoseki harbour, one passes 
Dannoura, a stretch or reach whose 
name is familiar to every student 
of Japanese history. 

It was the scene of the greatest naval 
battle in Japanese history, when the Taira, 
hitherto all-powerful, received their death- 
blow from the rival clan of Minamoto 
headed by the young hero Yoshitsune. The 
Taira forces were encumbered by the pre- 
sence of numerous women and children, 
among whom were the widow and daughter 
of Kiyomori,— the former a nun, the latter 
the Empress-Dowager KenreiMon-in, with 
her child, the Emperor Antoku, then only 
six years old. When his grandmother saw 
that all was lost, she clasped the young 
monarch in her arms, and despite the 
entreaties of her daughter, leapt into the 
sea where both were drowned. This was 
in A.D. 1185. 

Across the strait lies Tanoura, 
whence eighteen foreign men-of-war 
poured their shot and shell upon 
the Japanese batteries in what is 
known as the " Shimonoseki Affair.-" 
The chief battery of the Prince of 
Choshu was planted on a little 
sandy spit below the roadway on 
the 1., at the vill. of Maeda. 

The Shimonoseki Affair arose out of an 
attempt on the part of the Prince of Cho- 
shu, who was at that time a semi-inde- 
pendent ruler, to close the straits leading 
into the Inland Sea. Two American ships, 
a French ship, and a Dutch ship were 
fired on in June and July, 1863, and several 
men killed. Failing to obtain satisfaction 
from the Shogun's government, the re- 
presentatives of the three powers concern- 
ed, together with the British representa- 
tive, who deemed it essential for all the 
"Western powers to make common cause in 
their dealings with the Japan of those days, 
sent a combined fleet to bombard Shimo- 
noseki. This was done on the 5th and 
6th September, 1863. The victors futher- 
more claimed an indemnity of $3000,000, 



392 



Route 50. — The Inland Sea. 



on acconnt of the expense to which they — 
and more especially Great Britain — had 
been put by the naval and military dis- 
play required to enforce the observance of 
the existing treaties. The last instal- 
ment of this sum was paid over by the 
Mikado's government in 1875. No incident 
in the dealings of the West with Japan 
has met with so much adverse criticism. 
Several years later, the United States 
government, conscience-stricken, repaid 
their portion of the indemnity — at least 
they repaid the principal, but not the 
interest. The other recipients have not 
shown this modicum of generosity. 

Shimonoseki, also called Akama- 
ga-seki, or more often Bakan (Inns, 
*Daikichi, *Fujino, Tenshin-ro with 
European food), is a considerable 
shipping centre, lying 4 m. from 
the W. entrance of the Strait of 
Shimonoseki, which separates the 
Main Island from Kyushu. The town 
consists almost entirely of a single 
street, about 2 m. in length. The 
chief products are tobacco and cut- 
lery. Shimonoseki and 

Moji (Inns, *Yasaka-Gwaishaf 
Kawa-u), a new town on the Kyu- 
shu side, form practically but one 



t Properly speaking, Yasaka-Gwaisha 
is the name of the Forwarding Agency 
to which this inn belongs, and whose 
branches, widely spread through N.W. 
Kyushu, afford assistance to travellers in 
various ways. 



port, though business is hampered 
by the fact of the two places be- 
longing to different prefectures, 
each with its separate custom- 
house. Both sides of the strait 
have recently been fortified — there 
are no less than seven forts 
in all — as a precaution against 
further foreign attacks. The pro- 
sperity of Moji dates only from 
the year 1891, when it was chosen 
as the N. terminus of the Kyushu 
Railway. Owing to the extreme 
swiftness of the tides on the Shimo- 
noseki side, the mail steamers, even 
when advertised for Shimonoseki, 
anchor at Moji. The presence of 
coal near this latter place is a fur- 
ther inducement, and will probably 
make it a dangerous rival of 
Nagasaki in the near future. Moji 
possesses a public garden com- 
manding a charming view of land 
and sea. The distance across from 
Shimonoseki is only 1 mile, and 
steam-launches ply every 20 min. 
Shimonoseki enjoys an excellent 
climate at all times of the year, 
owing to its southern frontage with 
hills behind, admitting the summer 
breezes and protecting it from 
northerly winter blasts. Moji is 
less favoured in this respect. 



SECTON V. 
THE ISLAND OF SHIKOKU. 

(Routes 5/ — 55. 



Route 51. — North-Eastern Shikoku. 



395 



EOUTE 51. 

North-Eastern Shikoku. 

1. — General Kemarks on the 
Island of Shikoku. 

The word Shi-Jcolcu means " four coun- 
tries," — a name derived from the fact of 
the island being divided into the four pro- 
vinces of A wa to the E,, SanukitotheN.E., 
Iyo to the N.W., and Tosa to the S. As 
the author of the Kojilcl quaintly phrases 
it, " This island has one body and four 
faces, and each face has a name." Some 
of the names used in early times were 
quaint indeed, the province of Iyo being 
called "Lovely Princess" (E-hime), Sanu- 
ki being "Prince Good Boiled Rice" {It* 
tfori-hiko), Awa being "the Princess of 
Great Food" (O-ge-tsu-hime), and Tosa be- 
ing "the Brave Good Youth" (Take-yori- 
walce). The last-named province continues 
to justify its name for bravery and ability. 
No men have aided more than the Tosa 
men to bring about the renovation of 
Japan ; in none are turbulent and demo- 
cratic sentiments more prevalent. Dur- 
ing the middle ages Shikoku was ruled 
over by a number of great feudal houses, 
of which the most powerful were the 
Kono, the Hosokawa, the Miyoshi, the 
Chosokabe, and the Hachisuka. The is- 
land is now divided into the four pre- 
fectures of Tokushima, Kagawa, Ehime, 
and Kochi, corresponding respectively to 
the old provinces of Awa, Sanuki, Iyo, 
and Tosa. 

The climate of Shikoku is excep- 
tionally mild, especially in the south- 
ern portion, which is influenced by 
the Kuroshio, or Japanese Gulf- 
Stream ; hence late autumn or early 
winter is the best time to visit it. 
Tosa is the only province in Japan 
where two crops of rice are produced 
yearly. 

The greater part of the island 
is covered by mountain ranges 
of from 3,000 ft. to 4,000 ft. in 
height, with few salient peaks, 
the loftiest being Ishizuchi-yama 
on the boundary of Iyo and 
Tosa, estimated by Dr. Kein at 
1,400 metres (about 4,666 ft.). " In 
Sanuki," says Dr. Rein, " the plain 
of Takamatsu is fringed towards the 
sea by several volcanic cones, quite 
distinct from the schist mountains 
in the interior. They include no 
important heights, but are a very 
strikiog feature in the landscape.'' 
The mountains of Shikoku are well- 



watered, and crowned by magni- 
ficent forests. " In the higher 
regions," says the authority just 
quoted, " the eye is delighted by a 
vigorous growth of deciduous trees, 
where horse-chestnuts and magno- 
lias are variously intermingled 
with beeches, oaks, maples, ashes, 
and alders. But laurel-leaved oaks, 
camellias, and other evergreen trees 
venture much nearer to them and 
higher than in Hondo [the main 
island of Japan] , while still lower 
camphor-trees and other cinnamon- 
species, the wild star-anise, Nan- 
dina, and many other plants which 
we only find in the Main Island in 
a state of cultivation, take part in 
the composition of the evergreen 
forests." 

Routes 51, 52 and 53 are the most 
picturesque in this section. 

2. — Tokushima, Naruto Passage, 
Mountains of Sanuki, Shrine 
op kompira. tadotsu and 
Marugame. 

Itinerary. 

TOKUSHIMA to : Bi. Cho. M. 

Nakamura 1 35 4| 

Muya 2 15 6 

Bando 2 28 6| 

Odera 1 4 2f 

Hiketa 3 13 8£ 

Sambon-matsu .... 1 34 4 f 

Machida (Nibu) . . 34 2J 

NAGAO 3 12 8£ 

Hiragi 1 4 2f 

Motoyama 1 24 4 

Busshozan (Momai) 20 1J 

Jusan-zuka 2 3 5 

Takinomiya 1 24 4 

KOMPIRA (Koto- 

hira) 3 2 7J 

Total 28 — 681 

Steamers_ for Tokushima start 
daily from Osaka, sometimes calling 
in at Kobe to pick up passengers. 
Details to be had at the Kobe 
office. The passage is made during 
the night, and the traveller finds 
himself at dawn gliding up the 



396 



lloute 51. — North- Eastern Shikoku. 



broad Yoshino-gawa. Soon the 
steamer stops at Kami-Zuketo (or 
Suketo), a suburb of Furukaiva, the 
port of Tokushima, whence to Toku- 
shima itself is a 25 min. jinrikisha 
ride through pleasant country 
and past the thickly wooded site of 
the old castle of the Hachisuka 
family, the outer wall and moat of 
which still remain. 

This great family of Daiinyos held sway 
over the whole province of Awa from early 
in the 1 7th century till the revolution of 
1868. On the creation of new orders of 
nobility in 1884, its present head received 
the title of marquis. He has recently 
been permitted to buy back the castle 
grounds, which, during the earlier portion 
of the present reign, had been used as a 
site for military barracks. 

Tokitsliima (Bins, *Hiragame-ro, 

Shirna-gen ; there are two Euro- 
pean restaurants), the largest and 
finest town in the island of Shikoku, 
and capital of the province of Awa 
and of the prefecture of Tokushima, 
is situated near the N.E. corner of 
that island, not far from the cele- 
brated whirlpool of Naruto. It is 
quiet and cleanly, but its sights 
need not detain the traveller more 
than two or three hours. The princi- 
pal are as follows: — the Ryobu Shinto 
temple known as Seimino Kompira, 
strikingly situated on a rocky hill 
called Seimi-yama at the S. end of 

Sei-mi-yama means lit. " force viewing 
hill." The name is derived from a tradi- 
tion to the effect that Yoshitsune here 
reviewed his forces before the terrific 
encounter at Yashima. 

the town. It is worth climbing 
some flights of stone steps leading to 
the Shinto temple called Bnbe Jinja, 
higher up the same hill, for the 
sake, not of the temple itself, but of 
the delightful and peculiar view of 
the town and neighbouring moun- 
tains, the rich alluvial plain 
intersected by various rivers, and 
the sea with the large island of 
Nushima to the spectator's left. — 
Otaki-zan, a hill nearer the centre 
of the town, similarly has temples 
and a fine view. The Castle Grounds 
contain a beautiful landscape garden 
and a modest European restaurant. 



An enjoyable day's trip by jinriki- 
sha can be made from Tokushima 
to Tsunomine (locally called Tsuno- 
mune-zan), a hill situated 6 or7n 
to the southward. There are two 
roads thither — one following the 
coast, the other, which is less pic- 
turesque, lying back a little among 
the hills. The coast road is render- 
ed striking by its rocky cliffs and 
long rows of graceful pine-trees. 
The last J ri up to a small 
temple on the summit must be done 
on foot. The view here spread out 
before the beholder is deemed the 
prettiest in the province. Especially 
delightful is the prospect south- 
wards of the island-strewn gulf 
which, under the names of Kota- 
jima-minato and Tachibana-ura, 
curves inland for 5 or 6 m., while 
around it rise wooded heights, with 
rice-land and hamlets in the 
hollows, and salt-fields below. In 
the event of a late start from 
Tokushima rendering a return the 
same day impossible, the night may 
be spent at the vill. of Tomioka 
(Bin, Tosa-ya), at the base of the hill. 

A much shorter excursion — less 
than half a day — is to the sea-shore 
of Komatsu-jima, famed for its 
scenery. 

On leaving Tokushima, an early 
start should be made, and two men 
taken to each jinrikisha ; otherwise 
the first day's journey, which cannot 
be conveniently brought to a close 
before Hiketa, will be prolonged into 
the night. The road leads first 
across the delta of the Yoshino-gawa, 
three of whose arms are passed on 
very long bridges. In front is a line 
of pine-clad hills, and all around 
are fields of rice, sugar-cane, and 
other produce. The base of the hills 
is reached at Horie, where the road 
turns sharp to the r. towards Muya 
no Hayazaki, and then comes to 
Muya no Okazaki, a fishing hamlet 
where boats can be obtained for the 
trip to the 'Naruto, or whirlpool 
between the islands of Shikoku 
and Awaji, described on p. 380. The 



Naruto Whirpool. From Horie to Nagao. 



397 



trip — a splendid one on a fine day — 
will occupy from 3 to 4 hrs. Lunch 
should be taken for consump- 
tion either in the boat or on the 
sea-shore at the other end, where is 
the justly celebrated view, — a view 
of pine-clad hills, and picturesque 
islets, Awaji beyond, with Nushima 
to its r., and in the middle the 
tremendous rush of water which no 
junk can stem except under rare tidal 
conditions, the whole scene recalling 
some of those pictures which Chinese 
and Japanese artists love to paint. 

To proceed on one's journey, the 
1J ri separating Okazaki from Horie 
must first be retraced. From Horie 
the road continues westward, 
skirting the base of the hills, and 
passing the tumulus (misasagi) of 
the Emperor Tsuchi-Mikado. 

It was the fate of this unfortunate 
prince to fall upon the stormiest 
period of the Middle Ages. His father 
the Emperor Go-Toba, and his bro- 
ther the Emperor Juntoku, were both 
exiled, — one to the Oki Islands, the other 
to Sado, by the upstart " Regents " of the 
Hojo line (see p. 51). Himself without 
any inclination to withstand rebellious op- 
pression, a friend of poetry rather than of 
arms, he retired voluntarily to what was 
then considered the remote province of 
Tosa, and afterwards came north into 
Awa at the dictation of Hojo Yoshitoki, 
who apparently desired to have the ab- 
dicated monarch within nearer reach in 
the event of political complications. He 
died at the end of A.D. 1231, at the early 
age of thirty-seven. 

The whole drive is a very pretty 
one, and becomes romantic_after 
passing through the vill. of Oder a, 
where on a height, glistens a 
temple dedicated to the Buddhist 
god Shoden. Here the road sud- 
denly turns sharp to the r. 
and plunges among the hills, in 
order to cross over the knob of 
high land forming the N.E. ex- 
tremity of Shikoku and gain the 
shore of the Inland Sea. After a 
time, it becomes necessary to alight 
from the jinrikishas, so steep is the 
Osaka, as this hill or pass, which 
forms the boundary between the 
provinces of Awa and Sanuki, is 
appropriately termed. About a mile 



on either side has thus to be walked. 
At the top the Inland Sea comes in 
sight, and the view all the way down 
is one of continued loveliness, the 
blue outline of the mainland of 
Harima appearing on the horizon, 
and Shodoshima, the largest island 
in the Inland Sea, standing well 
out to the 1. 

Iliketa (Inns, Mio-ya, Ise-ya) is 
a poor place, but the scenery 
beyond it is almost constantly de- 
lightful the whole way to Kompira. 
Just outside Hiketa 1., is a hill 
dotted with Buddhist images repre- 
senting the deities worshipped at 
the Eighty-eight Holy Places (see 
p. 408) of the island of Shikoku. 
All the hills are covered with pine- 
trees, and many have kakemono- 
like peaks. Sometimes one passes 
an artificial lake used for purposes 
of irrigation, sometimes a torii or 
an avenue leading up to an 
ancient shrine. The sea, though 
near at hand to the r., is not visible ; 
but Shodoshima looms up beyond 
it for several miles. The cultivation 
of the rich plain through which the 
way leads, includes indigo and sugar ; 
and those curious in such matters 
will find establishments here and 
there where sugar-refining is carried 
on with very primitive machinery. 

The chief productions of this province 
of Sanuki are popularly known as "the 
three white things " (sam-pakti), viz.: salt,, 
sugar, and cotton. The sugar industry 
is quite modern, having been introduced 
from Satsuma not long before the begin- 
ning of the present regime. 

Several rivers, too, are passed, 
with broad stony beds and little 
water. From the vill of Tazura 
onwards, which lies between Machi- 
da and 

Nagao (Inn, *Miki-ya), the land- 
scape becomes more fanciful, almost 
grotesque, with a sharp serrated ridge 
to the 1., forming the frontier be- 
tween Sanuki and Awa, and to the 
r. and ahead a series of isolated 
hills rising abruptly out of the 
plain. Some of these are perfect 
volcanic cones — many of them so 
steep as to appear inaccessi- 



398 



Route 51. — North-Eastern Shikohu. 



ble, — others are flat table-moun- 
tains, others again have various 
queer shapes, the whole assemblage 
forming one of the quaintest and 
most original scenes that even Japan 
has to offer. Meanwhile the traveller 
bowls along rapidly over the fertile, 
mountain-dotted plain by an ex- 
cellent road. 

[At Hiragi a branch of the high- 
way diverges r., 3 ri 9 cho, to 
Takamatsu (Inns, Oimatsu-en, 
Fuji-ya), capital of the pro- 
vince of Sanuki and formerly 
the seat of a Daimyo called 
Matsudaira Sanuki-no-Kami. It 
is a clean and pleasant sea-port 
town. A favourite excursion 
thence is to Yashima-yama, the 
most curiously flat of all the 
mountains mentioned above, 
and famous in history as the 
scene of one of Yoshifcsune's 
great battles. The distance is 
about 2 ri) 

Between Busshozan and Jusan- 
ziika, the broad bed of the Kodo- 
gawa is crossed ; and a few miles 
further, after more scenes of the 
quaint character just described, one 
enters 

Takinomiya (Inn, Awa-ya), 
where, from the grounds of the 
temple of Gion, there is a pretty 
view of fantastic rocks in the bed of 
the Ayagawa. Soon after leaving 
this vill., Zozusan, the mountain on 
which stands the shrine of Kom- 
pira, comes in view ahead. It is 
supposed to resemble an elephant's 
head in shape, whence the name. 
To the traveller's r. is a cone named 
Iinoyama, and nicknamed the Fuji 
of Sanuki ; but several other cones 
in this district equally deserve 
that appellation. Crossing the very 
broad stony bed of the Harai-gawa, 
we enter the suburbs of the town 
which has grown up at the foot of 
the ancient shrine of 

Kompira or Kotohira. 

This shrine, the holiest in all Shikoku, 
was founded by Kobo Daishi early in the 
ninth century, and is the original from 



which countless others in almost every 
city of the Empire derive their name. 
What little is known concerning this 
name and the deity who bears it, will 
be found on p. 44. The Shintoists 
took possession of the place about 1872; 
and in 1875, the pagoda and most of the 
temples reared by Buddhist piety were 
razed to the ground, and replaced by new 
Shinto structures, while the few Buddhisfe 
buildings that remained were despoiled of 
their altars and gorgeous trappings, and 
turned over to the use of the rival cult. 
Though Kompira has thus suffered archi- 
tecturally, the popularity of the shrine 
has been but little affected by the 
change ; for in Japan religious beliefs sifc 
lightly on the people, who, provided there 
be an ancient shrine to resort to and pur- 
chase charms at, care little what form of 
religion may be there professed. The 
great yearly festival, which takes place 
on the 10th and 11th October, is a notable 
sight, now as of yore, and the lesser fes- 
tival held on the 10th of each month is 
very lively, both at Kompira itself and at 
all the branch shrines in other provinces. 
The Momiji no Matmri, or Maple Festival, 
a recent institution, is celebrated on the 
10th day of the 10th moon, old calendar* 
the object being to give worshippers some- 
thing on the day to which their fathers 
had for centuries been accustomed. The 
pilgrims returning from Kompira may be 
known by the long boards which they 
carry wrapped up in oil-paper inscribed 
with a large \& the first of the Chinese 
characters with which the name of Kom- 
pira is written. 

Of the numerous excellent Inns at 
Kompira, the best are the *Tora-ya, 
Bizen-ya, and Kojima-ya. The 
town lives completely by and for the 
pilgrims ; and as we wend up the 
street of stairs leading to the 
temple, we see nothing on either 
hand but shops for the sale of gaudy 
boxes in which to enclose paper 
charms (fuda-bako), money-chang- 
ing stalls where the smallest denomi- 
nations of coppers may be obtained 
for offering at the various shrines or 
giving to beggars, ribbons for taking 
away as presents, and so on. The 
great two-storied gate (sammon)^ 
which marks the entrance to the 
holy precincts, is a survival from 
Buddhist days. From here to the 
top, there are 572 stone steps to be 
mounted. The way is lined with gra- 
nite lanterns aDd a granite palisade, 
inscribed with the names of those per- 
sons who contributed funds towards 



Temple of Kompira. 



399 



the erection of the new temples. 
Further on are wooden tablets and 
what look like mile-stones, similarly 
inscribed. At the top of these first 
two sections of the way stands the 
former Kondo, or Gold Temple, of 
Buddhist times, now renamed Asahi 
no Yashiro, that is, the Shrine of 
the Eising Sun. There are some 
beautiful carvings over the entrance. 
We then pass through a hand- 
some bronze torii, through a gate 
called the Sakaki Mon, and by 
more granite palisading under the 
shadow of fine trees, before mount- 
ing other flights of steps. 

To the Sakaki Mon a somewhat curious 
legend attaches. Chosokabe, lord of Shi- 
koku, so it is said, when engaged in bring- 
ing the island under his sway during the 
Middle Ages, met with determined re- 
sistance from many of the great monas- 
teries, which at that period by no means 
confined themselves to spiritual weapons. 
When the rest had with difficulty been 
brought into subjection, he sallied forth 
against Kompira, the most powerful 
monastery of all. But the deities of the 
place assuming the form of a swarm of 
wasps, his army fled panic-stricken. In 
token of submission to the divine will, 
Chosokabe then vowed to raise in this 
place a gate made of sakaki, the sacred 
cleyera tree ; but pretending that he could 
find none large enough, he contented him- 
self with building one out of the trunks of 
common trees stuck in upside down (saka- 
ki). That the Buddhist clergy were a 
thorn in the side of civil government at that 
unsettled period, is historically certain. 
That they were the sole chroniclers of the 
time, is shown by the ascription of im- 
piety to all who opposed them. 

Observe 1., at one of the landings, 
a curious little stone monument, — 
a tortoise supporting a square up- 
right stone with longitudinal aper- 
tures and wires. On these are strung 
wooden tickets which serve as coun- 
ters for the pilgrims who perform the 
penance called hyaku-do, that is, 
running up and down the final 
flight of steps a hundred times. 
At the very top is the Honsha, 
or new Main Temple, commanding 
a delightful view of the plain to- 
wards Marugame, dotted with hills. 
Beyond is that part of the Inland 
Sea called Mishima Nada, and 
beyond it again what looks like the 



mainland, but is in reality a cluster 
of islands. To this Main Temple 
are attached all the usual Shinto 
buildings. It has retained the 
Ema-do of earlier days, special- 
ly remarkable for the numerous 
pictures of junks and even steam- 
ers offered by seamen whom Kom- 
pira's protecting power has saved 
from shipwreck. There is also a 
fine bronze horse. Those travellers 
who take a special interest in 
Japanese art may terminate their 
exploration of Kompira by visiting 
the Shamnsho, or Temple Office, on 
the way down to the village. This 
formerly constituted the residence 
of the Buddhist high-priests, and 
has one suite of apartments decorat- 
ed by the great painter Okyo with 
storks, tigers, and Chinese sages, 
and another decorated by Kishi 
Gantai in a very bold style, having 
an innermost room adorned with, 
bunches of flowers by Jakuchu. 
This innermost room was reserved 
for the Mikado's envoy, the inner 
room of the first suite being similar- 
ly reserved for the Daimyo of the 
province. The place possesses many 
other art treasures in the shape of 
gold lacquer boxes, incense-sniffing 
utensils (see article on " Incense 
Parties" in Things Japanese), an- 
cient bells aud tokko, and above all, 
kakemonos by Kose-no-Kanaoka, 
Kobo Daishi, Cho Densu, Sesshu, 
and other highly venerated old 
masters. 

A short line of railway, of which 
the following is the schedule, con- 
nects Kompira with the coast : — 



Distance 

from 
Kotohira. 


Names of Stations. 


31 m. 
7-1 
10 


KOTOHIRA (Kompira). 
Zentsuji. 
TADOTSU. 
MARUGAME. 



From the carriage windows one 
sees 1. the pagoda of Zentsuji, a 
temple now much decayed, but 
notable as standing on the site 
where Kobo Daishi was born. 



400 



Route 52. — North-Western Shikoku. 



The tradition is somewhat confused and 
self-contradictory; for it is also asserted 
and generally believed that the saint was 
born on that part of the sea-shore known 
as Byobu-ga-ura, a few miles further on. 
An attempt at conciliation is made by 
supposing that the sea, 1,100 years ago, 
came up as far as Zentsxiji, which would 
thus really have been on the strand. 

Tadotsu (Inns, *Hanabishi, semi- 
foreign, Yoshida-gumi) is a bustling 
sea-port, where numbers of steam- 
ers call from different parts of the 
Inland Sea. A spare couple of hours 
may be devoted to going out by 
jinrikisha to Byobu-ga-ura, whence 
there is a lovely view. Another 
excursion is to Iyadani, a glen 
where, according to tradition, Kobo 
Daishi devoted himself to prayer and 
meditation. The harbour of Tado- 
tsu is much better than that of 

Mar u game (Inn, Nakamura-ro). 
Consequently fewer steamers call 
here, and the traveller desirous of 
proceeding by sea is advised rather 
to put up at the former town, where 
he will find boats starting _ daily 
both eastwards to Kobe or Osaka, 
and westwards to Imabari, Mitsu- 
ga-hama, and ports in the island of 
Kyushu. Should he go to Maru- 
game, he will there see the ruins of 
the former Daimyo's castle. 

The itinerary westwards along 

the coast is as follows: — 

TADOTSU to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Kami Takase 3 3 7 J 

Jike 1 25 4J 

Kwannonji 1 10 3 

Wadahama 1 28 4J 

KAWANOE 2 28 6f 

Mishima 1 13 3J 

Idake 3 6 7f 

Izumikawa 3 11 8 

SAIJO 3 5 7| 

Nibukawa 3 8 7f 

Sakurai 3 3 7f 

IMABARI 1 34 4| 

Hashihama 1 24 4J 

Kikuma 4 11 10 J 

H6j5 2 30 6f 

MATSUYAMA.... 4 4 10 

Total 42 29 104 J 



The best inns on this route are : — 

at Kawanoe, Kawaji 

„ Saijo, O Sakana-ya 

,, Imabari, Yoshi-chu 

,, Matsuyama, Kido-ya. 

For details of the chief towns on 
the above itinerary, see next Route. 



EOUTE 52. 

North- We stern Shikoku. 
mitsu-ga-hama, matsuyama and 
baths of dogo. saijo. ishi- 
zuchi-yama. antimony mine of 
ichinokawa. copper mine of 
besshi. kawanoe. 
Itinerary. 

(Rail from Mitsu-ga-hama to Matsu- 
yama in hr.) 

MATSUYAMA to: Ri.Cho.M. 

Kume 1 29 4J 

Kawakami 2 25 6J 

Kurumi 4 14 ll| 

Komatsu 2 23 6 J 

SAIJO 2 — 5 

Niihamaf 3 18 8k 

Izumikawa 1 — 2J 

Tatsukawa 1 — 1-h 

BESSHI 3 — 7J 

Total 22 1 53f 

Mitsu-ga-hama, popularly called 
Mitsu (Inns, *Aratama, *Ishizaki), 
may be reached by steamer either 
from Osaka and eastern Inland Sea 
ports via Hiroshima in the pro- 
vince of Aki,_or from the ports of 
Beppu and Oita in the island of 
Kyushu, there being constant com- 
munication in every direction. It 
is the most convenient starting- 

t This and the next three distances are 
those commonly accepted, but are pro- 
bably not quite accurate. From Izumi- 
kawa to Tatsukawa can be scarcely so 
much as 1 ri. On the other hand, the 3 ri 
thence to Besshi seem very long. 



Matsuyama Castle. 



401 



point for the exploration of North- 
western Shikoku. A miniature 
railway — the train running every 
hour — connects it with Matsuyama. 
The schedule is as follows: — 



Distance from 
Mitsu-ga-hama. 


Names of Stations. 


2| m. 

4,1 m. 


Mitsu-ga-hama. 

Komachi. 

Togawa (Matsuyama). 



This is a pretty little j ourney across 
the mountain-girt plain, in whose 
centre rises the wooded hill crowned 
by Matsuyama castle, which comes 
in view before reaching the inter- 
mediate station of Komachi. As 
Matsuyama is a quiet place, and the 
hot springs of Dogo, 21 cho distant 
from it at the foot of the hills, offer 
superior attractions, many Japanese 
prefer to alight at Komachi, which 
is nearer to Dogo by a few cho. 
European travellers might find it a 
good plan to let their guide alight 
at Komachi in order to secure quar- 
ters for them at Dogo and get food 
read) 7 , while they themselves pro- 
ceed to Matsuyama to visit the 
Castle, and then go round to Dogo 
by jinrikisha or on foot. The whole 
thing lies, so to say, in a nutshell. 

Mjitsuyama (Inn, Kido-ya; Euro- 
pean restt., Wayo-tei), capital of 
the province of Iyo, is a clean, neat 
town remarkable for its Castle, for- 
merly the seat of a Daimyo named 
Hisamatsu, whose fief was assessed 
at 150,000 koku. Permission to 
visit it can be obtained by applying 
at the Prefecture (Kencho), between 
the hours of 9 and 4. 

Originally founded by Kato Samanosuke 
Yoshiakira in the year 1603, it passed in 
1635 into the hands of the Hisamatsu 
family, who were kinsmen of the Toku- 
gawa Shoguns, and the official designation 
of whose head was Matsudaira Oki-no- 
Kami. The structure in its present shape 
is much more modern, the 17th century 
building having been accidentally de- 
stroyed by fire ; but the style of architec- 
ture faithfully preserves the ancient 
type of the Japanese "keep" {tenehu) 
and outer bastions. During the peace- 
ful days of the Tokugawa regime the 



Daimyo, finding residence in the castle 
inconvenient, usually lived in a mansion 
in the town, where also his samurai, or 
retainers occupied a special quarter,— not 
in barracks {naga-ya), as in Yedo and else- 
where, but in separate dwelling-houses. 
When all the feudal castles were taken 
over by the Imperial Military Department 
in the early days of the present reign, 
this one had the luck to be selected, to- 
gether with a very few others, as a speci- 
men for preservation. The building is 
not now devoted to any practical use, the 
military detachment quartered at Matsu- 
yama being lodged in barracks in the 
town. 

The castle occupies an almost 
impregnable position, commanding 
the whole surrounding country. The 
walls are all of granite, which make 
the superstructure of wood and 
plaster look somewhat flimsy and 
theatrical. Three gates admit the 
visitor into the inner precincts, and 
the building itself has three storeys. 
The top offers a magnificent pano- 
rama. From the north window we 
perceive the sea, with the mainland 
of Japan in the dim distance, and 
turning eastwards Takanawa-yama 
rising above lesser pine-clad hills. 
From the east window we look at 
the vill. of Dogo and lofty Yuno- 
yama, still loftier Ishizuchi-yama 
rising to its r., and continuing on 
into a long range of which the por- 
tion to the extreme r. is Kumayama, 
while immediately in front of us 
lie a part of the town of Matsu- 
yama and the long avenue lining 
the course of the Ishite-gawa. On 
the south side are the town and 
the straight new road that leads 
over Kumayama to Kdchi, capital 
of the province of Tosa, besides 
many mountains of which the high- 
est is Kannan-zan near the town of 
Ozu, and the long thin promontory 
that has to be doubled by ships 
bound for Nagahama and Uwajima. 
The most beautiful prospect of all 
is on the west, where we have the 
islet-studded sea, and_on the horizon 
the large island of Oshima off the 
coast of Suwo. The long straight 
road on this side is that leading to 
the port of Mitsu-ga-hama, which 
place is itself seen, with the island 



402 



Route 52, — North-Western Shikoku* 



of Gogoshima behind it, known also 
as " the little Fuji " on account of 
its shape. Part of the town, too, is 
close at hand, well exemplifying the 
Japanese word for " town," jdka, 
whose literal signification is " be- 
neath the castle" ; and on each of 
the four sides we have the richly 
cultivated plain laid out in rice- 
fields and other fields, and, quite 
close at hand, the tiled roofs of the 
lower portion of the castle itself, 
rising from among aged pine-trees. 

Dogo (Inns, *Funa-ya, Chakin), 
as already indicated, is almost in- 
variably preferred to Matsuyama 
by Japanese travellers visiting these 
parts. Indeed it is, next to Kom- 
pira, the favourite place in Shikoku. 
Whether foreigners will be equally 
fascinated by it, must depend on 
how "Japanesy" they have become. 
Carpers will probably say that 
though the inns are first-rate, they 
lie in a hole and lack air and sun- 
light, that the fine baths are spoilt 
by their publicity and by the neces- 
sity of going out of the house to 
take them, that the little kiosks 
overlooking the little stream are 
rude and damp, and that there is a 
demi-monde atmosphere about the 
whole place, especially of an even- 
ing. Japanese visitors do not ob- 
ject to any of these things. A high 
position and a distant view are not 
desiderata in their eyes. In any 
case, Dogo certainly deserves a visit, 
as the best remaining example of a 
fashionable Japanese bathing resort 
altogether untouched by European 
influence. At Dogo one may pur- 
chase specimens of the pretty white 
faience (Tobe-yaJci) manufactured 
at Tobe, a vill. 4 ri off, on the other 
side of the Matsuyama plain, on 
the new road leading over into the 
province of Tosa. 

Dogo is probably the most ancient spa 
in the Empire. According to the .Japanese 
mythology, two gods — Onamuji and Su- 
kuna-bikona — bathed here, and their 
example was followed by five Mikados 
from the legendary period downwards. 
Earthqunfces have interrupted, but never 
entirely stopped, the flow of sulphur water, 



which, however, is not forthcoming in 
sufficient quantities to allow of its being 
led into the various inns and private 
houses. For this reason there are public 
baths only, tickets for which are supplied 
at the bath-office. The baths are of three 
different degrees of strength, the two 
stronger being resorted to by patients 
suffering from cutaneous diseases, while 
the weakest (Ichi-no-yu) is patronised by 
pleasure-seekers in good health, so that 
no unpleasantness need be feared from 
bathing in it. 

From Matsuyama or Dogo to 
Saijo there is a choice of routes. 
One may either go by sea to the 
neighbouring port of 

Imabari (Inn, Yoshi-chu), an old 
castle-town picturesquely situated 
at the entrance to the narrowest 
channel of the Inland Sea, and 
thence by jinrikisha for the rest of 
the way, 8 ri 8 cho, with only one 
hill at which it is necessary to get 
out and walk ; or else one may go 
the whole way by land, following 
the itinerary given on p. 400, 13 ri 
19 cho. This distance can be ac- 
complished in one day by taking 
a jinrikisha with two coolies ; and 
it is inexpedient to break the jour- 
ney, as the country inns on the 
way are bad. The day's journey 
falls naturally into three divisions 
of about 4 \ ri each. The first 
section reaching as far as Kawa- 
kami is flat, and affords pretty views 
of high mountains to the r. and 
lower hills to the 1. A feature of 
this part of the road is the immense 
dry river-bed called Yoko-gawara. 
In the second section one plunges 
among the hills, and must constant- 
ly dismount and walk. There is 
little distant view ; but at one point 
— the highest of all and just half 
way — tbere is a picturesque gorge 
with crenellated cliffs, where a small 
copper mine called Chiwara is pass- 
ed. The third section of the road, 
from Kurumi to Saijo, lies over a 
plain bordering the Inland Sea. 
The broad and generally dry bed of 
the Kamogawa is crossed before 
entering. 

Saijo (Inn, Sakana-ya). This 
quiet town stands a little way in- 






SaijOi Ishizuchi-yama* Mines of Besshi. 



403 



land, many acres of ground having 
been reclaimed from the sea within 
recent times and turned into rice- 
rlelds. The long sea-wall which has 
been built to protect these fields 
commands a pretty view. Saijo 
is the best starting-point for the 
ascent of Ishizuchi-yarna. 

[The expedition to Isiiiziiclii- 
yama, the highest mountain in 
Shikoku, 6,480 ft., takes three 
days and two nights, these latter 
being spent at the hamlet of 
Kurokaioa, 7 ri from the sum- 
mit, that is, one night before 
making the ascent and the other 
on returning downwards. There 
is no hut higher up to stay 
at. Parts of the climb are very 
arduous, so that in three places 
chains are hung to help pilgrims 
up. The summit is a flat rock 
on which a miniature shrine 
has been raised, formerly Bud- 
dhist but now Shinto. The 
view is magnificent, including 
almost all Shikoku except on 
the Tosa side, the Inland Sea 
with its islands, and the pro- 
vince of Bizen on the mainland 
beyond. — Kaitie-ga-niori is an- 
other high mountain to be as- 
cended from Saijo, the first 
part of the way being the same 
as that up Ishizuchi. Near 
the summit is a small copper 
mine, where one may make 
shift to spend the night.] 

The neighbourhood of Saijo pos- 
sesses some noted mines. The Anti- 
mony Mine of Ichinokaioa is only 
1 ri 26 cho distant, about half of 
which can be done in jinrikisha. 
Visitors are politely received, and 
may occupy half a day over the 
expedition. The crystals of anti- 
mony here produced are among the 
most beautiful fn the world. The 
Metallurgical Works (Seirenjo) are 
in the town. 

Until the recent Europeanisation of 
their country, the Japanese remained 
comparatively ignorant of the value of 
-antimony, and used it only in minute 
quantities for marking off the weights 



(me) on scales, whence its old native 
name of shiro-me. It is now called an- 
chimoniiy a corruption of the English word, 
and the metal is largely exported. 

More ancient and more impor- 
tant is the Copper Mine of Besshf. 

Jinrikishas go as far as Tatsic- 
kaiva (Inn, Kumegawa) ; after that, 
one must either walk or be car- 
ried in a kago up the steep 
hillside. The inspection of this 
important establishment is strongly 
recommended to such as take an 
interest in the industrial develop- 
ment of Japan ; and even those 
whose sole object in travelling is 
the enjoyment of the picturesque, 
will find ample reward for their 
climb in the contrast to the smiling 
scenery of the shores of the Inland 
Sea which is afforded by the grim, 
desolate rocks of the metalliferous 
mountain. At the same time, there 
are lovely views on the way up 
and down. 

The plan for any one starting, say, 
from Saijo is to visit the Niihama 
Smelting and Refining Works in 
the forenoon — (they are situated on 
the coast opposite the small island 
of Miyoshima) — climb up to Besshi 
in the afternoon, and sleep at the 
Ishin-ro restaurant in the mining 
village; then, on the second day, 
go through the mine in the morn- 
ing, and descend to Tatsukawa after 
luncheon, sleeping there or going fur- 
ther on, either west to Saijo, or east 
towards the Yoshino - gawa valley 
(see next Route). A third plan — 
perhaps the best of all— is to avail 
of the little steamer which the pro- 
prietor of the mine sends daily 
across to Onomichi, a port on the 
north shore of the Inland Sea (see p. 
387), which is also a station on the 
Sanyo Railway, affording the easiest 
means of getting back to Kobe. 
An introduction to the Sumi- 
tomo family should be obtained, if 
possible ; but even without one, 
the head manager, who resides at 
Besshi, will show travellers every 
civility. In any case warm clothing 
should not be forgotten ; for Besshi 



404 



Route 53. — Valley of the Yoshino-gaiva. 



lies near the summit of a steep 
gorge at an altitude of from 4,000 
to 4,400 ft., and the excessive radia- 
tion due to the absence of all vege- 
tation helps to make the nights, 
and even at certain seasons the 
days, bitterly cold. 

The Besshi Copper Mine, which had 
been worked in a small way for over a 
century before, came in the year 1691 into 
the hands of its present owners, the 
Sumitomo family, who rank among Ja- 
pan's few millionaires. The mine itself 
is the second largest copper mine in the 
country, the largest being that at Ashio, 
described on p. 178, The place is entirely 
under Japanese management, though this 
statement should be qualified by the 
remark that one of the managers was 
educated in Germany, and that since 
about 1882 German machinery and Ger- 
man methods generally have been intro- 
duced to a considerable extent. The 
miners number some 3,0(>0 men, women, 
and children, of whom 80 per cent, have 
been born, as were their fathers and grand- 
fathers before them, on the spot, so that 
the mine is, in every sense, a family con- 
cern. They are well-cared for by the pro- 
prietor, fed, sent to school till the age of 
twelve, and tended in a hospital when sick. 
There is also at Besshi a technical school 
for the instruction of officials and over- 
seers. Only men are employed to dig out 
the ore. These work in three shifts of 8 
liours each, while others, whose labour is 
of a lighter description, work in two shifts 
of 12 hours each. The women are em- 
ployed only for light tasks above ground. 
Most of them are the wives of miners, 
each member of a family thus gaining his 
or her own livelihood independently. 
Work is carried on constantly, day and 
night, the sole holiday being ou the 1st of 
each month. Before the opening of 
Japan, such portion of the copper as was 
not needed for home consumption is said 
to have been sold to the Dutch at Naga- 
saki, and by them exported to the Indies 
(Java?), where the natives employed it 
to manufacture cooking utensils. At the 
present day most of the output finds its 
way to London . 

The total produce of the mine in 1893 
is stated at 4,200,000 catties, showing an 
increase of 200,000 catties over the previous 
year. (The "catty," Jap. kin, is nearly 
equivalent to \\ lb. avoirdupois.) 



EOUTE 53. 

The Valley of the Yoshino-gawa. 

1. from izumi-kaw a to hakuchi and 
tokushima. 2. from besshi to 
hakuchi. 3. from kochi to 

HAKUCHI. 

The Yoshino-gawa, — the largest 
river in Shikoku — is formed by the 
junction of two main branches, 
— a northern one rising near the 
copper mines of Besshi in the pro- 
vince of Iyo, and a southern flowing 
down from the eastern flank of 
Ishizuchi-yama in Tosa. The rapids 
of the main river, after the union of 
the two streams, form the principal 
attraction of this route. Section 1 
is the easiest of the three, though 
even there the traveller must be 
prepared to dispense for a time with 
good roads and luxurious tea-houses. 
Section 2 is very rough indeed, Sec- 
tion 3 scarcely less so, but it is the 
most beautiful of all, and may be 
recommended to the sturdy pedes- 
trian accustomed to roughing it in 
the Japanese wilds. 

1. — From Izumi-kawa to Hakuchi 
and tokushima. 

Itinerary. 

IZUMI-KAWA :— RL 

Doi (Idake) .... 3 

Mishima 3 

/Kamibu 1 

Negio 2 

Sano 1 

Hakuchi 2 

§.§ J Ikeda (by boat) 1 
rtShuzu „ » 

Hashikura-ji . . 

Hiruma 

WAKIMACHI 

\ (by boat) .... 7 

Iwazu 1 

KAWASHIMA.. 4 

Ishii 3 

Fuchu 

TOKUSHIMA... 1 



Cho, M. 
11 8 
6 7| 
2i 
6 
3S 
6 

n 

4 
i? 



18 
18 
15 

22 
18 
24 



28 19 

1 2£ 

6 10J 

6 7| 

35 2£ 

31 4£ 



Total 35 23 87J 



From Izumi-kuwa to HakuchL 



405 



[The distances by road (along the 
r, bank of the Yoshino-gawa, as 
soon as that river is reached) 
from Kawanoe on the Inland 
Sea to Wakmiachi are officially 
stated as follows : 
KAWANOE to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Negio 2 28 6f 

Ikeda 5 15 13£ 

Higashi Igawa 1 26 i| 

Eguchi 2 9 H 

Sadamitsu . . 2 21 6J 
WAKIMACHI 3 — U 

Total 17 27 43J] 



The vill. of Izumi-kawa, distant 
between 4 and 5 ri from the town of 
Saijo, 1J ri from Niihama, and 
about 1 ri from Tatsukawa at the 
entrance to the gorge leading up to 
the Besshi copper mine (see p. 
403), has been chosen as the start- 
ing-point of this Route, because 
it is thought that those travelling 
by it will probably combine it with 
a visit to the mine. Jinrikishas are 
available as far as Kamibu, and 
again, at the end of the journey, 
from Wakirnachi to Tokushima. 
The rest must be done on foot, 
excepting those portions marked 
" by boat " in the Itinerary. 

On leaving Izumi-kawa, the road 
leads among the wooded hillocks 
that here rise between what may be 
termed the Besshi range of moun- 
tains and the sea. At the hamlet 
of Sekinoto, the top of a hill, which 
it is necessary to walk, offers a 
charming glimpse of the Inland 
Sea, and beyond it to the 1. the long 
back of Zozu-san on which stands 
the great shrine of Kompira (see p. 
398), to its r. the two peaks of Ho 
near Takamatsu, and straight ahead 
Hirayama, the pass which the 
traveller is about to cross in order 
to get over into the Yoshino-gawa 
valley. From 

Doi (Inn, Nabae) onwards, the 
beautiful Inland Sea is constantly 
visible, — blue, island-studded, and 
fringed by a narrow plain devoted 



to the cultivation of rice and sugar, 
while on the r. the mountain 
spurs descend like the number- 
less legs of a centipede. A short 
cut for pedestrians to Hashikura-ji 
via the temple of Sankakuji is 
passed r. just before entering the 
dull town of 

Mishima {Inn, Nagao-ya). Much 
paper is produced in this neighbour- 
hood and further along this route 
from the bark of the kaji tree 
{Broussonetia papyrifera) . 

[From Mishima the highway leads 
on for 1 ri 13 did to Kawanoe 
(Inn, Kawaji), a town situated 
on the shore of the Inland Sea, 
beyond some sandy hills. No 
steamers call there, and the 
place offers nothing of special 
interest.] 

Our road diverges from the Kawa- 
noe highway at the hamlet of 
Hiragi, and turns sharp inland 
towards the green mountains. At 

Kamibu (Inn, Daiku-ya), the 
pedestrian portion of the journey is 
entered on, and one crosses the 
Sakaime-toge, or "Frontier Pass,** 
dividing the province of Iyo from, 
that of Awa< The acclivity, except 
just at the end, is gentle on the 
Iyo side and the scenery rather 
tame. The prospect improves on 
the Awa side, where the vill. of 

Sano is reached, and the path 
follows the course of a small affluent 
of the Yoshino-gawa, perpetually 
crossing and re-crossing it on step- 
ping-stones and crazy planks, till 
one arrives at 

Haknehi (Inn, Kiku-ya). This 
vill., prettily situated just above the 
confluence of the two streams, forms 
the starting-point for the boat jour- 
ney down the Rapids of the Yoshino- 
gaiva. In summer flood-time, when 
the waters rise and rage, one might 
spin down to Tokushima at the river's 
mouth in a single day. At ordinary 
times it will take as long to get to 
Wakirnachi, scarcely more than half 
that distance. Moreover there is the 
temple of Hashikura-ji to be visited, 



406 



Route 53.— -Valley of the Yoshino-gawa. 



which detour will occupy some 
little time. A plan recommended 
by the inhabitants in late autumn 
with a low river, and followed by 
the compilers, was to make a short 
first day by boating from Hakuchi 
to Shuzu (1 hr. 20 min.), there 
alighting to visit Hashikura-ji, and 
walking down thence to Hiruma, 
where a halt for the night was made, 
the luggage and servant having been 
sent on there in the boat. Next day, 
5f hrs. boat down from Hiruma 
to Wakimachi, thence jinrikisha to 
Kawashima where spent the night, 
and in to Tokushima early on the 
morning of the third day. This 
plan allows a few hours for seeing 
Tokushima, as the steamers thence 
to Kobe and Osaka always leave 
late at night. As a rule, the rapids 
of the Yoshino-gawa are less excit- 
ing than those near Kyoto or on 
the Fujikawa, let alone the Tenryu- 
gawa. Still they form an agreeable 
change in the routine of travel ; 
and the scenery, with high hills on 
either hand and the water crystal- 
clear, is soothing and delightful. 

Iketfa (Inn, Matsumata) lies on 
the r. bank of the river, between 
the two best rapids, called respec- 
tively Ikcda-se and Suivo. The 
latter word, which signifies " car- 
mine," is said to preserve the 
memory of a battle fought here, 
when the river ran stained with 
blood. Just after shooting No. 4, one 
comes in view of what looks more 
like a castle than a temple, high up 
on the hill to the 1.; then comes 
rapid No. 5, and one lands at Shuzu 
for the 18 did ascent to this land- 
mark, which is the celebrated 
shrine of 

Hashikura-ji, dedicated to the 
Gongen of Kompira. There is an inn 
here, called Maru-ura. 

The curious name Hashi-hira-ji, which 
means literally " chopstick store-house 
temple," is accounted for by a legend to 
the effect that Kobo Daishi, when he 
came to open up this district and 
bring it into subjection to Buddha, 
first exorcised a troupe of demons, 
and was then met by the god Kompira, 



who pointed ont to him a cave in the 
mountain side, which was set apart as 
a godown or store-house for the re- 
ception of the innumerable chopsticks 
used in the presentation of food offerings 
by the faithful at the neighbouring^ 
shrine on Zozu-san (commonly called 
Kompira or Kotohira, after the god's 
own name). Kobo Daishi forthwith erect- 
ed a sumptuous temple on the spot, as an 
OJ:u-no-hi, or holy of holies, connected 
with the shrine of Kompira. This was in 
A.D. 828. A great fire destroyed most of 
Hashikura's grandeur about 1825. Little 
seems to have been then done in the way 
of repair; and under the straiten- 
ed circumstances of Buddhism in the 
Japan of to-day, reconstruction can only 
be proceeded with at a very slow 
rate. The temple has, however, been 
fortunate in escaping the fate of 
most of those dedicated to Gongens : 
it has not been handed over to Shinto 
"purifiers," and it is said to have profited 
of late years at the expense of Kompira, 
the people preferring Buddhist to Shinto 
worship. The great annual festival is 
celebrated on the 12th November. There 
is a lesser one on the 12th March. 

The steep way up to the priests' 
residence is first along an avenue of 
cherry-trees, and then through a 
wood. The view from the top is ex- 
tensive. The principal temple stands 
still higher up and is called Chinjzi 
no Do, because dedicated to the 
tutelary (chinju) deity, Kompira Dai 
Gongen. 

Descending from the temple, we 
reach the vill. of 

Hiruma (Inn, Shikiji-ya), where 
boat is again taken for a delight- 
ful half-day down the river. The 
best rapid, called Kama-ze, or "the 
Cauldron," is soon reached, after 
which Tsnji, a good-sized vill., 
is seen on the r. bank. From 
here on for some 10 did, the bank 
is lined by boulders of a green- 
ish grey schist and by cherry-trees 
and azalea bushes, which, with the 
high hills on either side and the 
swift, limpid stream, make the scene 
resemble a Japanese landscape 
garden, especially in April when 
the blossoms are out. There is a 
road on either bank. The valley 
opens out very gradually, and there 
come broad white stony beaches, 
two of which large flocks of crows 






Rapids. Itineraries to Hakuchi. 



407 



have from time immemorial ap- 
propriated as bathing places, — a 
curious speotacle. At the vill. of 
Sadamitsu, just before shooting one 
of the rapids, there is a welcome 
break in the hills r., admitting a 
glimpse of higher mountains further 
south in the direction of lofty 
Tsurugi-san. Those with plenty of 
time to spare might alight here to 
visit the waterfall of Dogama 
Nam Tahi, about 1 ri distant, 
which is believed by the simple 
country folk to have an " owner" 
(nushi), that is a resident deity, who 
assumes the form of a serpent. In 
this part of the river small trout 
{ayii) may often be seen in great 
numbers. The mountainous dis- 
trict to the r. during the greater 
part of this day's voyage is called 
Iya (whence the name of the river 
Iyagawa). This district is noted for 
two things, — tobacco and (so at 
least say their kind neighbours) 
the boorish stupidity of its in- 
habitants. 

Wiikimachi {Inn, Yanagi-ya) is 
a town of respectable size, and the 
jinrikisha road hence to the coast ex- 
cellent. Circumstances will decide 
whether it be best to leave the boat 
here, or 1 ri further on at 

Iwazu (Inn, Tetsu-ya). One of 
the two it must be, as, except 
when the floods are out, the river 
begins to be sluggish at this point. 
Both towns are on the 1. bank ; but 
on quitting Iwazu, one crosses over 
to the r. by a long bridge of boats 
having an aperture to let other boats 
pass through. The traveller now feels 
that he is approaching civilisation 
and comfort. From 

Kawasliima {Inn, Shimate), a 
very prettily situated town, the hills 
retire on either side, the river and 
the plain both widen, and one passes 
through a long succession of vill- 
ages to 

Tokiishima (see p. 396). It seems 
an interminable way from the 
entrance of the town on this side 
to the quarter where the best inns 
are situated. 



2.— Fkom Besshi to Hakuchi. 
Approximate Itinerary. 
BBSSHI to :— Ri. Chd. M. 

Tomizato 6 18 15f 

Oku-no-in 4 18 11 

Shinritsu 1 — 2£ 

Yamashiro-dani . . 3 — 7J 
HAKUCHI 3 — 7J 

Total 18 — 44 



Tomizato and Shinritsu have poor 
inns, and Oku-no-in has such ac- 
commodation as a country temple 
can afford. The path is very rough, 
but the mountainous region trav- 
ersed is picturesque. The trip may 
be accomplished in two days by mak- 
ing an early start. From Hakuchi 
onwards, one follows the itinerary 
of Section 1 of this route through a 
smoother country down to Toku- 
shima. 

3. — From Kochi to Hakuchi. 
KOCHIto:— Pa. Clio. M. 

Ryoseki 3 28 9J 

Todeno 3 29 8f 

Yunotani 2 34 7£ 

Okubo 2 18 6 

Kawaguchi 5 18 13J 

HAKUCHI 2 18 6 

Total 20 28 50f 



Though some of these distances 
are approximate only, two days 
will suffice, in ordinary weather, 
to traverse this wild but very pictur- 
esque route, the first night being 
spent at Yunotani (Inn, Kome-ya). 
Horses may be taken as far as To- 
deno, a hamlet lying on the north 
side of the lesser Tosa hills, after the 
Pacific Coast has been left behind 
and the valley of the Yoshino-gawa 
entered. From there onward most 
of the way must be done on foot, 
the possibility of boating down the 
rapids of that portion of the river 
which lies beyond Yunotani being 
determined by the variable height 
of the water at different seasons. 
One may sometimes boat a little, 



408 



Route 54.- From Matsuyama to Uivajima. 



and then have to get out and walk, 
and then be able to boat again. A 
fine new road, now in process of con- 
struction, will greatly diminish the 
number of the ascents and descents 
that have to be encountered; 
but in these rugged mountain- 
ous districts, the chances of such a 
road long remaining in good repair 
are extremely doubtful. 



EOUTE 54. 

Western Shikoku from Matsu- 

yama to uwajima. 

Itinerary. 

MATSUYAMA to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Gunchu 3 11 8 

Nakayama 4 2 10 

Uchinoko 3 34 9£ 

Niiya 1 22 4 

OZU 1 29 44 

Unomachi 5 9 12| 

Yoshida 3 4 7* 

UWAJIMA ...... 2 8 5J 

Total 25 11 61| 

The way is rough and hilly. 
Jinrikishas are available between 
Matsuyama and_Gunchu, between 
Uchinoko and Ozu, and for the 
latter part of the way to Unomachi 
from a hamlet called Higashi 
Tada ; but the rest must be done 
on foot, the whole journey re- 
quiring 2 days. Another plan is 
to take steamer from Mitsuga- 
hama, the port of Matsuyama (see 
p. 401), either the whole way to Uwa- 
jima, which will occupy about 24 hrs., 
various small ports being touched 
at en route, or else only as far as the 
port of Na.gahama, whence by road 
up the valley of the Hijikawa to 
Ozu, and on by the itinerary given 
above. 

Ozu {Inns, Nagato-ya, Abura-ya) 
is a neat town situated in a plain 



surrounded by high hills, and own- 
ing an ancient castle. 

Yoshida (Inn, Imabari-ya), too, 
was once the seat of a small Daimyo. 

Uwajima (Inns, Imura, Musashi- 

ya). 

This quiet, old-fashioned place was the 
seat of a branch of the Date family remark- 
able alike for its talents and its longevity. 
— An ancient custom forbids the catching 
of whales on this part of the coast, be- 
cause they are supposed to perform the 
useful service of driving the sardines 
towards the land. So high is the esteem 
in which the sardines of Uwajima are 
held, that in feudal days a special boat 
laden with them was sent yearly as an 
offering to the Shogun at Yedo. 

retains the ruins of a small castle 
called Tsurushima Jo, standing 
on a low densely wooded hill, 
the summit of which occupies an 
area of some 10 chb square. Visitors 
are admitted to it only on Sundays. 
The view from the hill embraces 
S.E., Oni-ga-jo, a mountain about 
4,000 ft. high; N.W., Kushima- 
yama ; N.E., Izumi-ga-mori ; N., 
Jishikoku-yama. On this latter 
mountain stand eighty-eight images 
of Kobo Daishi, representing the 
Eighty-eight Holy Places founded 
by him in Shikoku. A visit to them 
is considered equivalent to making 
the entire lengthy pilgrimage. 

These Eighty-eight Holy Places {Shikoku 
Hachi-ju Ilak-ka-sho) play a prominent 
part in the religious life of the island of 
Shikoku, over every district of which they 
are scattered, bands of pilgrims being 
constantly on the move from one to the 
other. The temples are dedicated to vari- 
ous Buddhist deities. The pilgrims carry 
a little cloth to sit on (skiri-tsube), which 
anciently formed part of the simple 
luggage of all wayfarers, a double thin 
wooden board (/« da -basa •mi) serving to 
hold the visiting cards which they paste 
to the doors or pillars of each shrine, and 
a small straw sandal worn— of all ex- 
traordinary places — at the back of the 
neck, and intended to symbolise that 
great saint and traveller, Kobo Daishi, in 
whose footsteps they follow. 

Some little distance from the 
castle, stands a villa belonging to the 
Date family and containing a small 
but beautiful Japanese landscape 
garden. The public are permitted 
to view it in spring, when the white 
and purple wistarias are in bloom. 



Route 55.- — Kochi and Ways thither. 



409 



The- favourite excursion from 
Uwajima is to the waterfalls of 
Nametoko, about 2 ri distant by a 
very steep path. There are three 
principal falls and numerous smaller 
ones. 



KOUTE 55. 

Kochi and Ways thither. 
1. the city and environs. 2. the 
coast road from tokushima to 
kochi. 3. from kawanoe or kom- 
pira to kochi. 4. across the 
mountains from matsuyama 
(dogo) to kochi. 5. from uwa- 
jima to kochi. 
1. — The City and Environs. 

Kochi (Inns, Emmei-ken with 
European resit. ; Kiya), capital of 
the prefecture of the same name 
and of the province of Tosa, is a 
go-ahead place having many public 
buildings in foreign style. Its most 
striking feature, the Castle, dating 
from the 16th century and the abode 
of the lords of Tosa until the re- 
volution of 1868, was converted some 
years ago into a public library, and 
the grounds into a park. Most of 
the government buildings stand at 
the foot of the castle-hill, as does 
also a large square-built church 
erected by the native Christians. 
Kochi is noted for its coral, and for 
the long-tailed fowls bred in the 
neighbourhood, the tail feathers of 
some of which attain to the ex- 
traordinary length of 12 ft. The 
bay of Kochi is a double one ; the 
intention is to deepen the outer 
part so as to admit large steamers. 
At present one has quite a long jour- 
ney from the steamers to the land- 
ing place. The Buddhist temple of 
Chikurinji, one of the Eighty-eight 
Holy Places of Shikoku, a little over 
1 mile from the city by jinrikisha, 
merits a visit. It stands near the 



summit of a hill called Godai-san f 
several hundred steps leading up 
to the temple gate. At the foot of 
the same hill may be seen a Shinto 
shrine and monument erected to 
the memory of the Tosa men who 
fell on the loyal side in the Satsuma 
rebellion. 

The best walk (2 hrs.) from Kochi 
is to the top of Washio-yama, a hill 
1,500 ft. high affording a beautiful 
view. On the other side of the 
Kagami-gawa, lies the burial place of 
the Princes of Tosa. Three miles 
to the N.E. of Kochi is the water- 
fall of Takimoto, accessible by jin- 
rikisha. 

Kochi is usually approached by 
steamer from Osaka touching at 
Kobe. The steamers are fairly good, 
and the passage takes 16 hrs., but 
south-easterly winds not infre- 
quently cause detention. 

2.— Coast Road from Tokushima 
to Kochi. 
Itinerary. 

TOKUSHIMA to :— Ri. Cho. M. 

Komatsu-jima . . 2 19 6| 

Ha-no-ura 2 13 5| 

TOMIOKA 1 15 3J 

Kuwano 2 5 5 J 

Shimo Fukui ... 1 31 4J 

Yugi 2 17 6 

HIWASA 2 25 6J 

Mugi 4 17 11 

Asakawa 2 8 5£ 

Shishikui 3 4 7£ 

Kan-no-ura . 1 24 4 

None 1 30 4£ 

Sakihama 3 24 9 

Ukitsu 4 8 10J 

Kirakawa 2 3 5 

Nabari 3 26 9 

Yasuda 1 6 2£ 

AKI 3 2 7£ 

Wajiki 2 17 6 

Akaoka 2 15 6 

Gomen (Ino) 2 21 6J 

KOCHI 3 31 9J 

Total 58 1 141£ 



410 



Route 55,—Kochi and Ways thither. 



Seventeen or eighteen miles may 
be saved by taking a cross-road 
between None and Nabari. There 
is also a short cut from Akaoka to 
Kochi. Remember that in this, as in 
the following sections of the present 
route, the accommodation is mostly 
inferior, few even native travellers 
ever visiting districts so remote. 

3.— From Kompira to Kochi. 

Itinerary (approximate). 

KOMPIKA to :— Bi. Clio. M, 

Kaminomura 2 18 6 

Ikeda 5 — 12£ 

Awa - no - Kawaguchi 3 18 8 J 

Akano 2 — 5 

Shimo-no-doi 4 — 9f 

Ananai 3 — 7£ 

Sugi 2 — 5 

KOCHI 11 — 26f 

Total 33 — 80* 



This is a beautiful trip ; and ac- 
commodation, such as it is, can 
be obtained at the various villages, 
the inns at Ikeda and Kawaguchi 
being the best. When the road is in 
good order, the trip can be made in 
jinrikisha in a day and a half ; but 
this is rarely the case. An excellent 
jinrikisha road frcm Kawanoe joins 
in at Ikeda, 8 ri. 

4. — Across the Mountains from 
Matsuyama (Dogo) to Kochi. 

Itinerary. 

MATSUYAMA to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Kumamachi 7 — 17 

Higashi-gawa 3 27 9J 

Mochii 4 4 10 

Ikegawa 3 — 7J 

Kawaguchi 3 — 7£ 

Ino (bv boat) 12 — 29£ 

KOCHI 1 18 3| 

Total 34 13 83| 



the whole distance in 1892, but 
whether it will long survive may be 
doubted. 

All the first part of this journey 
is rough, lying as it does over a suc- 
cession of mountain passes; but 
the views are correspondingly fine, 
especially on the Tosa side where 
nature assumes a more smiling 
aspect. In some of the clefts and 
gullies on the rugged Iyo side, 
patches of snow lie all the year 
round. Poor accommodation is to 
be found at each village. The 
trip takes from 2J to 3 days r 
when no interruptions occur from 
flooded streams or paths carried 
away. From Kawaguchi to Ino is 
a delightful 7 hrs. journey by boat 
down the Miyodo-gawa, which is 
romantically beautiful and has 
several small rapids. The principal 
paper- dealers of Kochi live at Ino, 
shortly beyond which place the old 
castle of Kochi comes in sight. 

5. — From Uwajima to Kochi. 

Itinerary. 

UWAJIMA to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Yoshino 5 — 12J 

Shimoyama 2 — 5 

Ono 5 21 13J 

Tanono 4 15 lOf 

KUBOKAWA .... 6 29 16J 

Niita 1 17 Sh 

Kure 3 25 9 

SUSAKI 3 8 7| 

Ichinono 2 24 6* 

TAKAOKA 4 — 9f 

Ino 1 17 3J 

KOCHI 2 34 7J 

Total 43 10 106J 



These distances, from Mochii on- 
wards, are only approximate. A 
new jinrikisha road was opened over 



Very little of this route is prac- 
ticable for jinrikishas, nor are the 
inns good. Part of the way along 
the Shimanto-gawa is picturesque. 

An easier but longer alternative 
is to go round by the coast road 
passing through Sukumo and Naka- 
mura. Small steamers may be 
availed of here and there. 






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SECTION VI. 

KYUSHU AND OUTLYING 
ISLANDS. 

(Routes 56 — 6y. 






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for Mun;iys Handbook 



Route 56. — Nagasaki and Neighbourhood,. 



413 



ROUTE 56. 



Nagasaki and Neighbourhood. 

1. — General Remarks on the 

Island of Kyushu. 

Kyushu, literally, " the Nine Provin- 
ces," derives its name from its nine-fold 
division into the provinces of Buzen, 
Bungo, Clukuzen, Chikugo, Hizen, Higo, 
Satsuma, Osumi, and Hyuga. This, the 
most southerly of the four large islands 
of the Japanese Empire, played a pro- 
minent part in the very earliest national 
legends, and has continued to play a 
great part in the national history. "It 
was hence that Jimmu Tenno set forth 
with his vassals on his career of ad- 
venture and conquest, hence that the 
great expeditions of the Empress Jingo 
Kogo and of Taiko Sama against Korea 
were undertaken and carried to a success- 
ful issue. It was upon Kyushu that 
Mendez Pinto and the Portuguese mis- 
sionaries landed; here, therefore, that 
acquaintance was first made with Euro- 
peans, Christianity, fire-arms, and other 
matters hitherto unknown to Chinese 
civilization. When afterwards, in the 
first decade of the 17th century, the 
Catholic missionaries were driven out 
and Christianity extirpated, Dutch mer- 
chants managed to gain the favour and 
confidence of the powerful Tokugawa, 
and so maintain, under humiliating con- 
ditions, a commercial monopoly for more 
than two centuries at Nagasaki. "* Under 
the feudal regime of the Tokugawa Sho- 
guns, the prince of Satsuma was the most 
powerful of their feudatories, and since 
the establishment of the new regime in 
1868, the Satsuma clan has become more 
powerful than ever, its members engross- 
ing the chief offices, both military and 
civil. Curiously enough, Kyushu, whose 
men led Japan towards Europeanisa- 
tion, has also furnished the conservatives 
who on various occasions have endeavored 
to thwart by rebellion the consolidation of 
the new order of things. Details of the 
Satsuma rebellion will be found in Route 
64. — Travellers will do well to remember 
that the Kyushu people generally divide 
the ri (2* miles English), not into 36 cho 
as in the rest of the empire, but into 10 c/o. 
One go is therefore almost exactly ^ mile. 

2. — Nagasaki. 

Hotel. -Belle Vue Hotel. 

Japanese Inns. — Ueno-ya, in Man- 
zai-machi ; Midori-ya, in Ima-machi. 

Restaurants. — ( European food ) 
Fuku-ya, in Koshima ; Seiyo-tei, in 

* Quoted, with a few orthographical 
emendations, from Dr. Rein's Japan, 



Nishi Hamano-machi; Gwaikoku- 
tei, in Hokaura-machi. (Japanese 
food) Fuji-tei, in Ima-machi ; Tama- 
gawa, in Kamiya-machi ; Koyo-tei, in 
Kami Chikugo-machi ; Fuji-ya, Hira- 
bayashi. 

Passports for the hot springs of 
Ureshino and Takeo, for Arita and 
Imari, Sasebo, and back to Naga- 
saki via Sonogi, Isahaya, and 
the hot springs of Onsen (Unzen) 
in the Shimabara peninsula, can 
be obtained through the Consu- 
lates. Passports for the whole 
island of Kyushu, available for 
six months, are obtainable from 
Tokyo at four or five days notice, 
upon payment of a telegram and 
other charges at the Consulate of 
the applicant's nationalhYy. Regard- 
ing general passports for the interior 
of the country, see p. 3. 

Custom-House and Post and Tele- 
graph Office. — On the Bund. 

Clubs. — The Nagasaki Club, Bowl- 
ing Club. 

Banking Agencies. — Hongkong 
and Shanghai Bank (A. B. Ander- 
son, Agent); Chartered Bank of In- 
dia, Australia and China (Holme, 
Ringer and Co., Agents.) 

Churches. — English Church, Me- 
thodist Episcopal Church, Reformed 
Church of America, Roman Catholic 
Church. 

Newspaper. — "Rising Sun and 
Nagasaki Express." 

Public Hall. — In the Foreign 
Settlement. 

Theatres. — Maizuru-za, in Shin 
Daiku-machi ; Enoki-za, in Enoki- 
za-machi. 

Steam Communication. — Japan 
Mail Steamship Co. {Nippon Yu- 
sen Kzuaisha) ; Peninsular and 
Oriental ; Canadian Pacific Railway 
(Holme, Ringer and Co.) ; Pacific 
Mail ; Occidental and Oriental (Nip- 
pon Yusen Kiuaislia, Agents); Nord- 
deutscher Lloyd (H. Iwersen). 

Local Steam Commwiication. — 
From Nagasaki to Osaka and 
Kobe via Inland Sea ports, daily. 
To Misumi and Hyakkwan for 
Kumamoto, also daily. To Sa- 



414 



Boute 56. — Nagasaki and Neighbourhood. 



sebo, every two or three days. 
To the Goto Islands, Hirado, Iki, 
and Tsushima, weekly. To Kago- 
shima, twice weekly. Shipping 
Agents : Tsuru-ya, Maru-ya,in Yedo- 
machi. 

Silk Stores. — Fujise, Shimase, in 
Higashi Hamano-machi. 

Porcelain Stores. — Koransha, in 
Deshima. 

Tortoise-shell Stores. — Ezaki, in 
Uono-machi; Sakata, in Kago-machi. 

Embroidery. — Imamura, in Funa- 
daiku-machi ; Hakusui, in Kago- 
machi. 

Photographers. — Ueno, in Shin 
Daiku-machi; Kiyokawa, in Moto 
Furukawa-machi ; Setsu, in Shin- 
machi. 

Photograph Shop. — Tamemasa, in 
Funa-daiku-machi. 

Curio Stores. — Mess and Co., in 
the Foreign Settlement ; Honda-ya, 
Kyoritsusha, Sato, in Kago-machi ; 
Tora-ya, in Megasaki-machi ; Ni- 
shida, in Funa-daiku-machi. 

Bazaars. — In Moto Shikkui-ma- 
<mi, at Ohato near the head of the har- 
bour, and in Higashi Hamano-machi. 

History and Topography. — Nagasaki de- 
rives its name from Nagasaki Kotaro, to 
whom this district, then called Fukae-no- 
ura, was given as a fief by Yoritomo at 
the end of the 12th century. It was a 
place of no importance until the 16th 
century, when the native Christians 
-migrated thither in considerable numbers, 
and it became one of the chief sites of 
the Portuguese trade. A fter the final ex- 
pulsion of the Portuguese and Spaniards 
in 1637, only the Dutch and Chinese were 
permitted to carry on a limited trade here, 
until the opening of the country to foreign 
intercourse in 1859. 

The native town stretches for about two 
miles to the N. of the Settlement, in which 
direction is the road leading to Shimono- 
seki. From the N.W. ..quarter a road 
leads to Tokitsu on the Omura Gulf. A 
good road has also been constructed to 
Mogi on the Shimabara Gulf, the only 
other outlets by land being rough paths 
over the hills. On the S.W. side of the 
native town lies Deshima, the site of the 
old Dutch settlement. The present Foreign 
settlement occupies the flat land on the E. 
side of the harbour, and has a water fron- 
tage of 700 yds. to 800 yds. The private re- 
sidences of most of the merchants stand 
on the picturesque slopes of the hills be- 
hind the Settlement. On the opposite side 
of the harbour are the factory works of 



Akanoura and the Tategami dock, which, 
together with a patent slip on the E. side 
of the harbour, belong to the Mitsubishi 
Company. 

The harbour, one of the prettiest in the 
world, is a narrow inlet about three miles in 
length, indented with numerous bays and 
surrounded by wooded hills. It is tho- 
roughly sheltered, and affords anchorage 
for ships of all classes. The entrance 
of the harbour does not exceed I m. 
in width. The principal approach 
is from the N.W., between a number 
of islands, those conspicuous to the 
S. being Iwoshima with its lighthouse, 
Okishima apparently joined to Iwoshima, 
but in reality separated from it by a 
narrow boat passage, Koyaki-jima, and 
Kage-no-shima, on which last also stands 
a lighthouse. On the N. side of the chan- 
nel are Kami-no-shima, the site of an old 
gun battery, and Takaboko (Pappenberg). 
Recent historical criticism by Dr. L. 
Riess, of the Imperial University, would 
seem to render no longer tenable the 
tradition that from the cliffs of this 
latter island, less than three centimes 
ago, thousands of native Christians were 
precipitated because they refused to 
trample on the cross. Pappenberg and 
the adjacent Nezumi-shima are now 
favourite resorts for picnics. 

Nagasaki is noted for a kind of 
jelly (kin-gyoku-to) made from sea- 
weed, and for the dried roe of the 
grey mullet (karasiimi). The Naga- 
saki fish-market has the reputation 
of being one of three which show the 
greatest variety of fish in the world. 

Temples. — The principal Shinto 
temple is that of 0-Suwa, known 
to foreigners as the " Bronze Horse 
Temple," from a votive offering of 
a bronze horse which stands in the 
courtyard. The colossal new bronze 
torii at the foot of the steps is one 
of the largest in Japan. The garden 
attached to this temple com- 
mands a fine view of the city and 
harbour. The Buddhist temples of 
Nagasaki possess little interest ; but 
the great camphor-trees in the 
grounds of some of them deserve 
notice, more especially the huge 
specimen near Daitokuji. 

Festivals. — Nagasaki has always 
been noted for the magnificence of 
its religious festivals, three of which 
are still observed with all the pomp 
of former days. 

1. The Suwa no Matsuri (com- 
monly called Kunichi), held on 



Festivals. 



415 



the 7th, 8th, and 9th October, 
but liable to alteration. The old 
Dutch writers never tired of describ- 
ing it, and their accounts agree in 
almost every detail with the spec- 
tacle as witnessed at the present 
day. 

" This fete," writes one of them, " is of 
some days' duration, and begins with 
solemn rites in the temple dedicated to 
Suwa. Flags and lanterns are exhibited 
on all parts of the temple, and all the 
worshippers wear gorgeous ceremonial 
robes. The public rites consist in placing 
the great image of the god, together with 
the treasure of the temple, in a magnifi- 
cently gilded and lacquered shrine, which 
is then borne in procession through the 
streets, closely followed by the chief 
priests and a body of picked horsemen, 
the latter being deputed by the Governor 
to honour the ceremony. Shrine and 
treasure are finally deposited in a straw 
hut, especially built for the occasion. 
Here they remain on view for some time, 
the hut being open in front, though par- 
tially enclosed by painted screens; and 
with this conclude the prescribed religious 
rites. Sports, games of skill, and thea- 
trical representations follow; great plat- 
forms are erected in different parts of the 
town, and on these actors and singers of 
renown go through all manner of perfor- 
mances."— Fischer, who was present on 
one of these occasions, gives the follow- 
ing account of what he saw : " First goes 
an immense, shapeless mass of linen, 
carried on a bamboo by a stalwart man, 
of whom nothing can be seen but his feet. 
Mighty is the load lie bears, for the cloth 
is full twelve ells in length and em- 
broidered throughout, forming one huge 
canopy. Then come banners and em- 
broidered ornaments, covered with skilful 
needle-work representing some renowned 
man or celebrated woman, a hill covered 
with snow, the instruments of various 
trades, or scenes from ancient Japanese 
history. Next follow musicians playing 
upon drums, cymbals, and flutes, strange- 
ly attired, and accompanied by a number 
of servants. These are led or headed by 
the ottona, the chief municipal officer. 
Then appears a long train of children, re- 
presenting some expedition of one of their 
mikudos, or demi-gods. This part of the 
show is most admirable ; clad and armed 
like the warriors of former times, the 
leaders march gravely along, followed by 
the representatives of the Imperial Court, 
male and female, displaying the greatest 
pomp and luxury, and surpassing every 
conception of dainty beauty. Each of 
these trains is attended by a number of 
palanquins, which are intended for any 
of the children who may become fatigued. 
After these come companies of actors ; 
•every now and then high benches of equal 



size are ranged along the road, and on 
these the actors perform with great spirit 
and emphatic gesticulations. Their ac- 
tions are accompanied by the music of 
flutes and syamsen [shamixen]. When this 
is over, a crowd of miscellaneous musi- 
cians, palanquins, servants, and the rela- 
tives of the children follow, and this closes 
one tram." 

The arrangement nowadays is as 
follows : — The town is divided into 
seventy-seven wards (machi), includ- 
ing Maruyama and Yoriai-machi, 
the licensed pleasure quarters. These 
quarters are represented every alter- 
nate year, principally by the geisha^ 
who always lead the procession, the 
remainder being made up of dancing 
and acting parties from ten of the 
seventy-seven wards, whose turn it 
happens to be to contribute towards 
the festival. The procession starts 
from Ohato at daybreak, marching 
up to O-Suwa, where dancing, etc., 
chiefly by children gorgeously ar- 
rayed, is carried on until noon. 
The second day is an off-day, and is 
occupied by the processions parad- 
ing the town and performing at the 
houses of the principal residents. 
The third day is a repetition of the 
first, except that the procession goes 
from O-Suwa to Ohato, the order 
being reversed. The gods of O-Suwa 
are enshrined in large lacquered 
palanquins which, borne on the 
shoulders of lusty peasants, are 
rushed up and down the temple 
steps amidst a scene of the wildest 
excitement, often ending in a free 
fight and serious injuries to the 
participants. • 

2. The Bon Matsuri, or " Feast of 
Lanterns," as foreigners commonly 
call it, when the spirits of the dead 
are supposed to revisit the scenes 
of their life on earth, is cele- 
brated from the 13th to the 15th 
of the 7th moon, old style. The 
graveyards are then lit up with 
lanterns, and the relatives of the 
dead resort thither to perform their 
devotions. The hills around the 
city being covered with graveyards, 
the spectacle is most impressive. 
About midnight on the third night, 



416 



Route 56. — Nagasaki and Neighbourhood. 



a number of good-sized straw boats, 
furnished with lighted lanterns and 
laden with offerings of various 
edibles, are launched from Ohato 
for the spirits to take passage back 
to the other world. But as danger 
to shipping is feared from the 
lights floating about the harbour, 
men are placed in the water to 
break up the boats as soon as they 
are launched, which considerably 
mars the effect nowadays. 

3. The Gion Matsuri is a fair 
lasting for three days. It takes 
place on the 14th, 15th, and 16fch 
of the 6th moon, old calendar. 

3. — Walks in the Neighbour- 
hood. 

1. The Dockyard and Engine 
Works. Permission to visit the 
above, one of the largest engineer- 
ing and ship-building establish- 
ments in the Far East, can be ob- 
tained from the manager of the 
works at Akanoura. The Engine 
Works are situated about half-way 
up the harbour, directly opposite 
to the Foreign Settlement. 

They were originally built some forty 
years ago by the Prince of Hizen, under 
the superintendence of Dutch engineers, 
and were afterwards handed over to the 
Shogun's Government in exchange for a 
steamer. After the revolution of 1868, the 
works passed into the hands of the Im- 
perial Government, from whom they were 
purchased by the Mitsubishi Company in 
1884. They have been greatly increased, 
and now cover some 6| acres of ground, 

The Tategami Dock is situat- 
ed in a deep recess about J- m. 
below the Engine Works. The 
dock, which is faced with granite 
and fitted with powerful pumps, 
is cut out of the solid rock. The 
intention is to lengthen it, so as to 
make it available for the largest 
ships afloat. 

2. The Cemetery. Here lie buried 
the soldiers who died in Nagasaki 
from wounds received in the Formo- 
sau Expedition of 1874 and in the 
Satsuma Rebellion. Situated on a 
hill some 10 min. walk from the 
Settlement, it commands a very 



pretty view of the town and har 
hour. 

3. Kompira-yama. This conical 
hill, rising beyond the N. end of 
the native town, is a favourite 
resort of Japanese holiday makers, 
and is easily reached in a little 
over 1 hr. by a path to the 1. of 
the Suwa temple. Here every year, 
on the lOfch day of the 3rd moon, 
old style, is held a highly pictur- 
esque contest between kite-fliers, 
young and old, whose object is to 
cut down each other's kites with 
strings coated over with ground 
glass. 

4. Inasa-yama (1,130 ft.) is com- 
monly known as " Russian Hill," be- 
cause the village of Inasa at its 
foot is used as a sanitarium for 
the sick landed from Russian men- 
of-war. It is worth ascending, on 
account of the fine view seaward 
which the summit affords ; but the 
paths, being mostly overgrown, are 
difficult to find without a guide. 

5. Yenus Hill, \ hr. from the 
hotel, is so called by the for- 
eign residents, from the American 
astronomers having selected it in 
1874 for the observation of the 
transit of Yenus. It rises close be- 
hind the S. end of the Settlement, 
and is, for the most part, a long bare 
ridge commanding a glorious view 
of the town and harbour and sur- 
rounding mountains. Of distant 
mountains seen from the top, the 
most prominent are : E., Onsen-ga- 
take on the promontory of Shima- 
bara ; and N.E., Taradake in Hizen. 
The nearer summits include Inasa- 
yama and the rocky peak of Iwaya- 
dake on the opposite side of the 
harbour ; next Kompira-yama, rising 
beyond the town, to whose r. in 
succession are seen the triple sum- 
mits' of Shichimen-zan (commonly 
known as " the Champion ") ; Hoka- 
zan, recognised by its round top; 
and Hiko-san, distinguished by a 
fringe of trees crowning its summit 
and extending partly down its W. 
slope. Towards the S. is the sharp 
graceful cone of Saruta-yama, to 



Walks and Climbs. 



417 



whose r. extends a long range, the 
highest point of which is Kawara- 
yarna. Looking seawards, the eye 
sweeps over a succession of beauti- 
ful islets, while the horizon to the 
W. is bounded by the blue outline 
of the Goto_group ; to the N. lies 
the Bay of Omura, to the E. the 
Gulf of Shimabara. By following 
the path along the ridge, other 
paths will be observed leading down 
the valleys that trend towards the 
town. 

6. IS imi-toge — an enjoyable walk 
there and back of about 3 hrs. — is 
recommended to visitors with but 
little time at their disposal. The 
return may be made by the old 
path which descends steeply from 
the Nagasaki end of the cutting 
through the summit of the pass, 
and lower down leads by the water- 
works. 

7. Mogi (water communication 
with places beyond) — a pretty and 
pleasant walk there and back of 
3 hrs. Jinrikishas are practicable 
the whole way (2 ri). The view of 
the Gulf of Shimabara from a point 
just below the deep cutting through 
the top of the hill on the Mogi side, 
is very fine. Mogi itself does not 
appear until a turn in the road to 
the 1., at the bottom of the valley, 
reveals its position about \ m. dis- 
tant. Though an uninviting village, 
it should be traversed, and the walk 
continued round the bay to the r., 
as far as a small temple on a project- 
ing cliff, with fine sea view. There 
are two tea-houses at Mogi, one of 
which provides European food. 

Small steamers leave Mogi daily 
in summer for Obama (3^ hrs.), 
Kyodovtari, and Kuchinotsu on the 
Shimabara peninsula, and for Tomi- 
dka in the island of Amakusa. 
The sailings of these steamers 
being irregular, previous enquiry 
should be made at Messrs. Powers' 
store on the Bund, Nagasaki, to 
prevent disappointment. When 
these steamers are not available 
for Kuchinotsu, either passenger 
junks or ordinary open boats can 



always be obtained, the distance 
across being 13 ri. Boats can 
also be taken to Obama ; but the 
distance is some 3 ri longer than 
from Aba, the usual starting-point 
(see p. 421). A pleasant way of 
returning from Mogi to Nagasaki, 
is to go by boat to Aba, — time about 

2 hrs., but depending on the wind ; 
thence on foot or by jinrikisha over 
the Himi-toge. There is also a 
path from Mogi to Aba, which 
follows the deeply indented coast- 
line and passes through several 
hamlets. It is picturesque, but 
long and fatiguing. 

8. Sarutn-yama (1,418 ft.), gene- 
rally known to the foreign residents 
as "the Virgin," is a prominent 
sharp cone near the 1. of the high 
ridge which traverses the peninsula 
some 4 m. to the S. of the town. 
The walk there and back takes 
about 5 hrs., and is the prettiest in 
the neighbourhood. The exquisite 
view from the peak resembles that 
obtained from Venus Hill, but is on 
a more extended scale. The walk 
may be varied by descending on the 
side which faces the vill. of Mogi, and 
returning by the Mogi road. 

9. Urakami and Tokitsu (water 
communication with places beyond). 
This is a pleasant walk or ride of 

3 ri along the only level road in the 
immediate vicinity of Nagasaki. 
The road skirts the shore at the 
head of the harbour, leading up a 
pretty valley and past Urakami. 

This village, like most of the hamlets in 
the valley, is inhabited by Roman Catho- 
lics. Indeed, Christianity seems to have 
never been entirely eradicated here, not- 
withstanding the ruthless persecution of 
the faith in the first half of the 17th cen- 
tury. Here also was the residence of the 
illustrious Freiherr von Siebold, who, in 
the early part of this century, did so much 
by bis voluminous writings to excite the 
curiosity of Europe with regard to the 
as yet mysterious Empire of Japan. The 
house is still pointed out. 

At the foot of a deep cutting in 
a hill near Tokitsu, stands 1. an 
overhanging Rock called Saba-kusa- 
karashi-iiva, "the Rock where the 
Mackerel were allowed to Rot." 



418 



Route 56. — Nagasaki and Neighbourhood. 



It is related that a fisherman, on his 
way from Tokitsu with mackerel {saba) to 
sell, was startled at the sight of this rock, 
which looked as if it were just on the 
point of toppling over. So intense was 
his terror that he remained chained to the 
spot. The rock did not come down, but 
the 11 sh went bad, whence the name. 

The village of 

Tokitsu (Inn, Arita-ya), though 
itself offering no attractions, stands 
on the shore of a picturesque inlet 
of the Gulf of Omura. Pleasant 
excursions may be made by boat 
along the shores of the gulf. In re- 
turning, the road via the hamlet of 
Nagayo, also on the shores of the 
gulf, may be taken without adding 
rnuch to the journey. Those de- 
siring refreshment or rest will find 
the tea-house at the Urakami baths 
the best place for the purpose. 

Small steamers leave Tokitsu 
twice dajly, about 9 a.m. and 2 
p.m., for Omura 5 ri, and for Sonogi 
8 ri, also continuing on to Kawatana, 
3 ri further. A second line runs at 
the same hours to Haiki, 7 ri. 
Sasebo (see next page) is 3 ri dis- 
tant from the latter place. The 
views on the Gulf of Omura are very 
beautiful. 

10. Iwaya-dtake. This walk is 
the same as the previous one as 
far as the stone torii standing 
on the 1. of the road just beyond 
the hamlet of Nameshi. The path 
under the torii leads through the 
fields and thence up the hill — a 
walk of 1J m. — to a small shrine, 
whence by a steep zigzag through a 
thick wood to the summit. No view 
is to be had until the top is reached, 
where the whole of the sea face 
of the hill is found to be clear 
of wood. Excellent views are then 
obtained of the Gulf of Omura and 
of the open sea towards the island of 
Takashima. Time, 3 hrs. 

• 11. Hoku-zan. This hill is 
reached by following the old Himi- 
toge road as far as the water- 
works, and then taking the path 
up the valley to the 1. until the 
shoulder of the hill is gained. 
Thence the path r. leads to the top. 



Time, 2J hrs. The view from the 
summit is one of the best in the 
neighbourhood, and the ruins of the 
beacon form a slight shelter. Here 
the first fire used to be lighted, to 
speed on to Yedo news of the 
arrival of foreign ships. North lies 
the Gulf of Omura; E., the Gulf of 
Shimabara and Fugen-dake ; S., the 
open sea studded with islands. De- 
scending to the shoulder, one should 
take the path to the r. along the 
ridge, thence through a wood into 
a valley opening on to the Sakura- 
Baba road, close to the extensive 
Normal School buildings. 

12. Kwaiinon-no-taki. This 
waterfall, one of the principal 
attractions in the neighbourhood 
of Nagasaki, forms a favourite 
resort of picnic parties. The usual 
route leads over the Himi-toge 
to the vill. of Yagami, whence 
the road turns 1. towards the hills, 
and is practicable for jinrikishas 
the whole way, — a distance of about 
4 ri. Near the entrance to the 
temple grounds at the foot of the 
cascade, a large oak-tree almost 
overarches the way. The court- 
yard is lined with stone images of 
Kwannon and Fudo, to the former of 
whom the temple, dating from A.D. 
1730, is dedicated. The grounds are 
tastefully laid out with trees and 
shrubs ; and the steep slopes on the 
bank of the stream flowing from the 
fall are built up in terraces faced 
with stone and planted with flower- 
ing cherry-trees, camellias, azaleas, 
and maples, which, when in season, 
lend a brilliant colouring to the 
scene. The cascade shoots over a 
rugged cliff into a deep pool about 
50 ft. below. The resident priest 
makes a little money by letting out 
rooms to guests. If possible, that 
facing the cascade should be secured. 



Route 57. — Excursions from Nagasaki. 



419 



EOUTE 57. 



EXCUESIONS FEOM NAGASAKI. 

1. THE TAKASHIMA, NAKA-NO-SHIMA, 
AND HASHIMA COAL MINES. 2. 
NAVAL STATION OF SASEBO. 3. 
BATHS OF URESHINO AND TAKEO. 
POTTERIES OF ARITA. IMARI. 4. 
RAPIDS OF THE KUMAGAWA. 

(A passport is required for all these 
excursions, except No. 1.) 

1. — The Takashima Coal Mines. 

The island of Takashima, in 
which is situated the well-known 
colliery, lies about 8 miles south- 
west of the entrance to the harbour 
of Nagasaki, while Naka-no-shima 
and Hashima lie about 1 mile fur- 
ther out. Takashima is only some 
250 acres in extent. 

Until 300 years ago it was uninhabited. 
The first people to occupy the island were 
a guard of five officers, placed there by 
the Prince of Hizen to prevent foreigners 
from landing. The mine was first work- 
ed by the Japanese in the middle of the 
18th century. In 1867, the Prince of 
Hizen, in partnership ' with Messrs. 
Glover and Co., of Nagasaki, largely de- 
veloped the resources of the locality by the 
introduction of machinery and European 
methods of mining. The present owners 
are the Mitsubishi Company. 

2. — Sasebo. 

A small steamer leaves Nagasaki 
twice weekly for Sasebo, about 9 
a.m. Just outside the entrance of 
the harbour, the island of Pappen- 
berg is passed on the right. The 
course then lies N.W., almost within 
a stone's throw of the shore. A large 
rock hollowed out by the waves into 
a natural arch of colossal propor- 
tions appears on the 1. about 1 hr. 
later, as does also tbe island of 
Ikeshima. At about noon the 
steamer enters a small bight, where 
the Seto Straits, some 30 yds. wide 
and very picturesque, come in view 
and suddenly reveal another way 
out. After clearing the straits, the 
course still lies along the shore, till 



the steamer enters a large bay in 
which the harbour of Sasebo, 
similar in size and appearance to 
that of Nagasaki, is situated. The 
upper end of the harbour is lined with 
the brick buildings of the Naval 
Station, the most imposing struc- 
tures of their kind in Kyushu. 
Certain restrictions are placed upon 
visitors to the arsenal. The steam- 
er arrives at Sasebo {Inn, Harima- 
ya) about 5 p.m. To make the round 
journey, returning via Haiki and 
Tokitsu, for which 2 days suffice, 
see p. 417. 

3. — The Baths of Ureshino and 
Takeo. The Potteries of Arita. 
Imari. 

From Nagasaki it is an easy day's 
journey to Takeo. Travellers should 
start in time to catch the 9 a.m. 
boat from Tokitsu for Sonogi (see 
p. 418). There is a second boat 
daily about 1 p.m., by which Ure- 
shino can be comfortably reached 
the same day. (Those bound direct 
for the potteries of Arita should 
continue on in the steamer to 
Kawatana). It is a pleasant run, 
mostly along the coast, to 

Omiira (Inn, Kambutsu - ya), 
which was formerly the residence of 
a Daimyo, and is still a busy town. 
The walls of the castle are in 
good preservation, and the finely 
wooded, well-kept grounds afford 
a charming place to saunter in. 
Paintings and various other relics 
of byegone days are here preserved 
in a building set apart for the pur- 
pose. At 

Sonogi (Inn, *Matsumori-ya ; in- 
ferior accommodation at one on the 
wharf), jinrikishas can be hired 
to Ureshino, 3 ri. The road lies 
along a gently rising valley, the 
slopes of which are coal-measures in- 
clined at moderate angles, this form- 
ation continuing as far as Takeo. 
Half a mile from the latter place a 
white porphyritic rock forms a 
mountain called Shiroyama, the 
summit of which affords a splendid 



420 



Route 58. — The Shimabam Peninsula. 



view. The scenery is pretty through- 
out. The hot springs of 

UreslliliO (Inns, *Shio-ya, Wata- 
ya) gush forth on the bank of a 
river which flows past the town. 
The public baths are enclosed in 
a long wooden shed, and are divid- 
ed into three classes. The first 
class has three large blue and white 
porcelain receptacles for the water, 
which is cooled before admission 
into the baths, and can be let in or 
out at pleasure. 

Takeo 5 also called Tsukazaki 
(Inns, Sankaku-ya, Shunkei-ya, Sho- 
koku-ya), lies in a valley 3 ri from 
Ureshino. The baths are supplied 
from a single hot spring. One of 
them is made of beautiful black and 
white marble, and has a dressing- 
room and waiting-room for ladies 
attached. 

Arita (Inns, Matsumoto-ya, Ise- 
ya) is prettily situated amongst the 
hills, 6 m. from Takeo by jinrikisha. 
The traveller should not fail to visit 
the celebrated Potteries, and the 
quarries of Izumi-yama where the 
stone is dug. The rock is crushed 
with levers worked by water-power. 
Clay from Hirado and the Goto 
Islands is now generally used for 
glazing. 

These potteries were established in 1592 
under the superintendence of a Korean 
"brought over by Nabeshima, Prince of 
Hizen. " But not till the year 1620," says 
Captain Brinkley, It. A., the greatest au- 
thority on such matters, " do we find any 
evidence of the style for which Arita porce- 
lain became famous, namely, decoration 
with verifiable enamels. The first efforts 
in this direction were comparatively 
crude ; but before the middle of the 17th 
century, two experts — Groroshichi and 
Kakiem on— carried the art to a point of 
considerable excellence. From that time 
forward, the Arita factories turned out 
large quantities of porcelain profusely 
decorated with blue under the glaze and 
coloured enamels over it. Many pieces 
were exported by the Dutch, and some 
also specialty manufactured to their order 
for that purpose. Specimens of the latter 
are still preserved in European collections, 
where they are classed as genuine ex- 
amples of Japanese keramic art, though 
beyond question their style of decoration 
was greatly influenced by Dutch inter- 
ference." 



Iniari (Inns, Nakano, Kyo-ya) 
is distant from Arita 3J ri by jinri- 
kisha along a picturesque valley. 
This place, situated at the bottom 
of a small bay, gives its name (Imari- 
yalci) to the porcelain produced at 
Arita, which is brought here for 
export. Imari itself was never a 
seat of the manufacture. 

5. — The Rapids of -the Kumagawa. 

For an account of the delightful 
trip down these Rapids, see the 
latter part of Route 65. The town of 
Hitoyoshi, where one embarks for 
the descent of the river, is reached 
from Nagasaki by steamer to Misumi 
(Inn, Urashima - ya ) in 6 hrs., 
thence by small steamer — does not 
run in bad weather— to Sashiki 
(Inn, Ebisu-ya) in 4 hrs., whence 
jinrikisha the rest of the way, 10 ri. 



EOQTE 58. 

The Shimabara Peninsula. 

1. onsen. ascent of fugen-dake. 

2. nagasaki to shimabara. 
1 — Onsen. Ascent of Fugen-dake. 

Onsen, or Unzen in local parlance, 
is properly the name of the village 
situated close to the largest of the 
solfataras that lie in a hollow of On- 
sen-ga-take, and are known as Ojigo- 
ku. Ten min. walk below Ousen is 
Shinyzi, consisting of three inns and 
some bath-houses with a private 
bath which foreigners can secure by 
request. Ten min. further down 
the flank of the mountain is Ko- 
jigoku, where stands the Shimoda-ya 
Hotel, in foreign style. 

This remarkable spot, 2,550 ft. 
above the sea, noted for its sulphur 
springs, its varied and beautiful 
scenery, and bracing air, has become 
a sanitarium, not only for the in- 



From Nagasaki to the Baths of Onsen. 



421 



habitants of Nagasaki and neigh- 
bourhood, but for the residents of 
the China treaty ports. From the 
Japanese point of view, a course of 
these upper springs is considered 
necessary to effect a complete re- 
covery after the patient has passed 
through the routine of the mineral 
baths at Obama. 

The usual way of reaching Onsen 
from Nagasaki is by the itinerary 
given below. Steamers ply daily 
from Aba to Obama. Sailing boats, 
which make the passage in 3 hrs. 
with a fair wind, are also obtainable. 
The remainder of the journey is 
best performed on foot, though 
hagos or packhorses can be hired 
for the ascent. Should the sea be too 
rough on the bay, jinrikishas may 
be taken either to Chijiwa or to 
Obama (see p. 424). Travellers from 
Shanghai occasionally avail them- 
selves of coal steamers that go direct 
to the port of Kuchinotsu, whence 
Onsen is about 6 ri 8 cho (15J m.), 
partly practicable for jinrikishas. 

Itinerary. 

NAGASAKI to :— Ri. Cho. M. 

Himi 2 18 6 

Aba 10 f 

Obama (by boat) . . 7 — 17 
ONSEN (Kojigoku) 2 18 6 

Total 12 10 29|- 



Jinrikishas with two men should 
be taken to Aba. At Himi the road 
turns r., and soon reaches 

Aba (Inn, Tsuta-ya), a poor fish- 
ing village, but prettily situated. 
Opposite lies the island of Maki- 
shima, which encloses between it 
and the mainland a small harbour 
where junks can anchor. The sail 
across to Obama affords charming 
views. In front the various peaks 
of Onsen-ga-take are seen to 
advantage, in the following order 
from 1. to r. : — Azuma-dake, Fu- 
gen-dake (the highest point of the 
mountain), Takadake, and Takai- 
iwa, the sharp rocky summit rising 
behind a nearer ridge to the r. 



Looking back, we have a fine view of 
the Nagasaki peninsula, whose bold 
steep coast is indented with bays 
and inlets. To the 1. the gulf is 
studded with wooded islets extend- 
ing from a reef off the eastern point 
of Makishima, while in the distant 
background rises Taradake, the 
highest mountain in the province of 
Hizen. 

Obama consists almost entirely of 
inns (Tsuta-ya, Sumi-ya, and Abe-ya 
being the best) , and is much f requent- 
ed on account of its mineral waters, 
which undoubtedly possess great 
efficacy in rheumatic complaints. 
The village has a picturesque aspect 
when viewed from the sea, the 
houses being built on a high stone 
embankment and on rocky ledges 
that almost overhang the water. 
The baths are detached from the 
inns, and are mostly open tanks 
on the rocky beach close to the 
spring which supplies them ; that 
at the r. of the landing-steps is 
reserved for foreigners. The tem- 
perature of the water at its source 
is 160° F., but in the baths it is 
lowered to 106° F. 

The road to Onsen first mounts 
a long flight of steps leading up to a 
Shinto shrine. At the hamlet of 
Sasa-no-toji, 1 ri from Obama, the 
road turns sharp to the 1., and for a 
short distance is steep and rough. 
It then emerges on an open slope 
commanding a splendid view to- 
wards the Nagasaki peninsula. The 
path now winds to the r. between 
two slopes of the ridge, and soon 
the conspicuous cone of Takai-iwa 
strikes the e} 7 e. We next reach, 1J 
ri from Sasa-no-toji, the small plain 
I of Fnda-no-hara, where Fugen-dake 
i and Myoken-dake, two of the highest 
| peaks, come into view. Further on, 
I the path branches off r. to 

Kojigokn (Hotel, Shimoda-ya). 
The bathing arrangements here are 
better adapted to European taste 
than those at Onsen proper, where 
the baths are public. Onsen possess- 
es fair inns, Yorozu-ya and Ueda, 
close by the springs. Here stands the 



422 



Route 58. — The Shimabara Peninsula. 



dilapidated Buddhist temple of 
Ichijo-in, which was destroyed by 
fire during the Christian revolt of 
1637, and afterwards rebuilt on 
a smaller scale. The solfataras 
are the chief objects of interest, 
but should not be visited with- 
out a guide, as the footing is dan- 
gerous in many places. The springs 
and fumaroles extend in a seeth- 
ing and boiling mass for nearly one 
mile along a hollow at the foot of 
fir-clad hills, and the volume of 
steam which rises from them forms 
a striking contrast to the dark ever- 
green of the background. Their 
activity varies at different times, 
water which under ordinary circum- 
stances is thrown up from 2 ft. to 5 
ft., being often, projected to double 
that height. Fanciful names have 
been given to most of the geysers, 
the finest being called Dai-Kyokivan, 
or the Loud Wailing. That which 
bears the name of Cliuto Jigoku, 
or Second Class Hell, has a tem- 
perature of 204° F. Several of the 
springs cannot be approached, on 
account of the extreme insecurity 
of the footing. 

The finest of the mountain walks 
from Onsen is that up Fug'en- 
dake ; but it should not be at- 
tempted without a guide. The 
road ascends steeply to a grassy 
hollow between the peaks of Onsen- 
ga-take 1., and Takadake r. In 
this hollow lies a shallow tarn call- 
ed Kara-ike. The path then turns 
off to the 1. The summit consists 
of three peaks, which are visited in 
the following order : — Fugen-dake, 
Myoken-dake, and Onsen-ga-take, 
the last-mentioned being the one seen 
first after leaving Onsen. The ascent 
for £ hr. is a moderate climb to the 
shoulder on the r. of Onsen-ga-take, 
where the two other peaks come in 
view. The path then descends 
through thick brushwood, and on 
reaching the opposite side of the 
mountain, commences again to 
ascend. In 1 hr. from the shoulder 
of Onsen-ga-take, the summit of 
Fugen-dake (4,800 ft. above the 



level of the sea) is reached. Here- 
stands a perpendicular rock 50 ft. 
high, on whose N. side, shelter- 
ed from the rays of the sun,, 
icicles are sometimes seen as early 
as the month of November. This 
peak commands a very extensive 
view, stretching from the provinces 
of Higo and Satsuma on the one 
hand to the distant group of the 
Goto Islands on the other, and 
including, in addition to the lofty 
summits of Aso-san and Kirishima- 
yama, innumerable bays and is- 
lands which together form a pano- 
rama of indescribable beauty. The 
second peak, Myoken-dake, is reach- 
ed in 2 hrs. from Fugen-dake, 
the way lying partly through brush- 
wood, and passing a small pond 
said to contain gold-fish. Turning, 
the shoulder of Fugen-dake, and 
passing some caves used for stor- 
ing ice, the path descends into 
a deep ravine, probably the origi- 
nal crater of the extinct volca.no, 
the bottom of which is a mass 
of huge boulders interspersed with 
trees. Wide crevices and slippery 
rocks here demand the climber's 
careful attention. The ascent to 
Myoken-dake from this ravine is 
very steep ; but the summit, like that 
of Fugen-dake, commands a magni- 
ficent view. The third peak, On- 
sen-ga-take, is surmounted with- 
out difficulty, and the whole descent 
may be rapidly accomplished. The 
total distance from Kojigoku to 
the summit of Fugen-dake is call- 
ed 3 1 ri. Pilgrims usually com- 
plete the round of the various peaks 
in 8 hrs. The ascent and descent 
could, however, be made by a good 
pedestrian in 6 hrs. 

The nearer neighbourhood of On- 
sen affords numerous pretty walks, 
one of the best being to the 
summit of Takai-iiva, where there 
is shelter under a natural arch 
of granite, with a glorious view 
over the Kuchinotsu end of the pe- 
ninsula. It is an easy trip for 
ladies, and a capital spot for picnics. 
Time required, 3 hrs. from the HoteL 






From Nagasaki to Shimabara. 



423 



A pleasant excursion may be 
made from Onsen to the port of 
Shimabara, some 5 ri distant. 
After passing Kara-ike, the tarn 
above-mentioned, the road descends 
through a fine rocky valley, the 
conspicuous summit of Takai-iwa 
being seen ahead. It then climbs 
a steep slope, and brings in view 
the Gulf of Shimabara and several 
mountains in the province of Higo. 
Below lies a fertile plain, stretching 
away towards the S. part of the 
peninsula, a portion of the island of 
Amakusa being also seen towards the 
S. The descent to the plain is, for 
the greater portion of the way, 
down a grassy slope amidst boulders 
and rocks, and then through a 
forest of pines, firs, and camphor- 
trees. On reaching the hamlet of 
Minohawa (2 ri), the road be- 
comes less steep, and 10 cho further 
fairly level. Beyond Nakakoba 
we obtain a grand view of the 
magnificent precipices of Maeyama 
(also called Kueyama), rising like 
gigantic walls between the town of 
Shimabara and the main summits 
of the volcano. 

It is stated that some time in the last 
century this side of Maeyama was hurled 
down by an enormous landslip and thrown 
forward into the sea, burying part of 
the town of Shimabara, and forming the 
innumerable islets which, now clad with 
pine-trees, give such a picturesque ap- 
pearance to the harbour. 

For Shimabara see next page. 

2. — Nagasaki to Shimabaea. 
Itinerary. 

NAGASAKI to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Himi 2 18 6 

Yagami 30 2J 

Kikitsu 2 18 6 

ISAHAYA 1 31 U 

Sangen-jaya 3 5 7f 

Aitsu 15 1 

Kojiro (Nishimura) 3 28 9£ 

Shimabara (Joka) . . 4 8 10J 
SHIMABAEA (Mi- 

nato) 1 — 2 J 

Total 20 9 49£ 



This route is practicable through- 
out for jinrikishas, and two men 
are needed only when the whole 
journey is to be done in 1 day. 

Leaving Nagasaki by the suburb 
of Sakura Baba, the road crosses 
the Himigawa, and the ascent of the 
Himi-toge at once begins. The 
turning to the 1., is the old way 
over the pass. In the narrow 
gully, also to the 1., are situat- 
ed the new water-works that 
supply the town of Nagasaki. 
Near the top of the pass, the road 
enters a deep cutting through solid 
rock, and on the other side winds 
down a series of terraces built 
along the steep face of the hill. 
Many travellers follow the old 
path to the bottom, in order to 
avoid the tortuous windings of 
the jinrikisha road. The far-end 
of the cutting afford an excel- 
lent view of portions of the Gulf 
of Shimabara, the high sum- 
mit of Taradake in Hizen, the 
volcano of Onsen -ga-take, and in 
closer proximity the bay of Aba, on 
whose N. shore rises a conspicuous 
hill called Yagami Fugen-dake. On 
reaching the hamlet of Himi, which 
lies at the foot of the pass, the 
road skirts the head of the bay of 
Aba and soon reaches Yagami, 
a little beyond which the way to 
the cascade of Kwannon-no-taki 
diverges 1. (see p. 418). On climbing 
an easy ascent called Fuji-no -Or; aha, 
about 1 ri further on, the gulf of 
Omura comes into view. 

Isahaya (Inn, Maru-ya) is a 
small town lining both banks of 
the Hommyo-gawa, a river which 
flows into the Gulf of Shimabara, 
and is here spanned by a fine old 
stone bridge. On the r. bank stands 
a Shinto temple, whose prettily laid 
out grounds are much frequented 
by holiday-makers. 

Leaving Isahaya, the road crosses 
a plain, and then skirts the foot 
of low hills as far as the ham- 
let of Moriyama, whence it ascends 
a hill commanding a fine view of 
the plain that stretches away to the 



424 



Ptoute 58. — The Shimabara Peninsula. 



base of Taradake. The road be- 
tween Aitsu (poor accommoda- 
tion) and Shimabara lies for the 
most part near the shore of the 
gulf, and commands from dif- 
ferent points magnificent views of 
the Shimabara mountains. The 
view across the gulf is also very 
beautiful. 

From the earliest antiquity, the gulf of 
Shimabara has been famed for the ignis 
fatuns which appears from time to time 
upon its surface. According to local ac- 
counts, which the late Rev. Dr. Macgowan 
collected and collated in 1892, the phe- 
nomenon occurs twice yearly, viz. on 
the 16th day of the 7th moon and on the 
3<>th day of the 12th moon, old style, from 
some time after midnight until the ap- 
proach of dawn, and the lights extend 
from Morodomi to the island of Amakusa 
on the < >ne side and to the port of Kuchi- 
notsu on the other. Some witnesses 
affirm the light to be a single ball of fire 
rising perpendicularly from the surface 
of the sea to a height of 60 feet, while 
others describe it as a line of pale red 
globes drifting seaward with the ebbing 
tide. ''Sea fireworks" and "thousand 
lanterns" are popular names of these 
mysterious lights. The standard classical 
name, Shiranu-hi (or Skiranui, as it is 
more generally pronounced) signifies "the 
unknown fire." European investigators, 
though attributing the phenomenon in a 
general way to electricity or phosphores- 
cence, have not yet discovered any suffi- 
cient explanation of its restriction to this 
special locality or of its periodicity. 
Probably the alleged facts would bear 
further careful sifting*. 

Shimabara, formerly the castle- 
town of a Daimyo, consists of two 
large divisions known respectively 
as Minato ov the Port (Inn, Chiku- 
go-ya), and Joha or the Town (Inn, 
Hashiinoto-ya) . The traveller should 
be careful to state to which division 
he wishes to go, for the two to- 
gether are continuous for upwards 
of 1 ri in length. 

At Shimabara occurred one of the most 
tragic incidents of the persecution of the 
Christians in the 17th century. Here the 
faithful had assembled in large numbers 
from various parts of the country for 
purposes of defence, and occupied the 
site of the old castle, portions of 
whose walls still exist, and around 
which most of the fighting took place. 
When the Christians were overpowered, 
multitudes of both sexes and all ages 
are said to have been pushed from the 
cliffs into the sea. Memorial stones mark 



the graves of the officers of the besieging 
force, the largest monument, about 8 ft. 
high, being dedicated to the memory of 
Itakura Shigemasa, Commander-in-Chief 
of the Shogun's army, who lost his life in 
the attack on the stronghold. 

An alternative but longer way of 
reaching Shimabara from the vill. 
of Aitsu is by following the coast 
road, practicable for jinrikishas, via 
Obama and Kuchinotsu. The it- 
inerary is as follows : 

AITSU to :— 

Chijiwa 

Obama 2 

Kita Gushiyama . . 
M in ami Gushi- 
yama 

Katsusa 

KUCHINOTSU.. 
Minami Arima . . 

Kita Arima 

Nishi Arie 

Dozaki 

Fukae 

Nakakoba 

SHIMABARA 
(Minato) 



Ri. 


Cho. 


M. 


1 


9 


3 


2 


— 


5 


1 


18 


3J 


1 


18 


3* 


1 


— 


2h 


1 


— 


H 


1 


— 


C M 




20 


1* 


1 


10 


3 


1 


15 


3* 


1 


30 


H, 


1 


8 


3 



1 18 



Total 17 2 41* 



It is an easy but steady rise from 
Aitsu to a high ridge overlooking 
Chijiwa Bay ; from this a broad 
road descends to the shore, affording 
exquisite views. The roots of the 
fir-trees at Chijiwa, standing out 
above the sand, present an ex- 
traordinary appearance. 

[A road which leads from here 
to Onsen, 3 ri, is recommend- 
ed to those who are on their 
way back from the baths to 
Nagasaki via Isahaya.] 

Obama (see p. 421). 

Kuchinotsu (Inns, Noda-ya, Abu- 
ra-ya) is a " special port of export " 
for coal, nearly the whole output 
of the Miike Mines being brought 
here in junks, and shipped to Shang- 
hai, Hongkong, etc. 



Route 59. — North- Western Kyushu. 



425 



EOUTE 59. 

Through North- Western Kyushu 
by Kail and Road. 

1. the kyushu railway. 2. from 
kokura to dazaifu via hiko-san. 
3. from tosu to saga and naga- 
saki. 4. from hakata to saga 
over the mountains. 5. from 
hakata by the coast to hama- 
saki and arita. 

The coast views on the northern 
section of the line — from Moji to 
Ongagawa — are ver}^ fine, recalling 
the Inland Sea. The rest of the way 
is less interesting, as it leads through 
country mostly flat. 

The Kyushu Railway. 





Names 




s S:i. 






$ ° o 


of 


Remarks. 


.% ^ ^ 








Stations. 






MOJI. 




3m. 


Dairi. 




71 


KOKURA. 




m 


Kurosaki. 




17| 


Orio. 




20i- 


Ongagawa. 




27| 


Akama. 




34 


Fnkuma. 




36£ 


Koga. 




42 


Kashii. 




45i 


Hakozaki. 




47 


HAKATA. 




5H 


Zassho-no-kuma ... 


Or Zassho. 


56 
59* 


Futsukaichi 


For Dazaifu. 


Harada. 


65f 
69f 


Tajiro. 

Tosu 


1 Cliange for 
\ Saga. 


KURUME. 


77-j 


Hainotsuka. 




m 


Yabegawa. 




85i 


Watase. 




901 


Omuta. 




98 


Nagasu. 




104 


Takase. 




109 


Konoha. 




113* 


Ueki, 




119 


Ikeda. 




12H 


KUMAMOTO. 





Moji (see p. 392). 
Koklira (Inns, Tatsumi-ya, Fujii) 
is a long, straggling, and busy town, 



formerly the seat of a Daimyd, 
and now occupied by a garrison. 
Near Orio, the railway crosses a 
bridge spanning another line which 
connects Nogata with Wakamatsu,a 
distance of about 27 miles. 

[Nogata (Inn, *Iwada-ya) is a 
long vill. on the old highway 
to Nagasaki. The Mitsubishi 
Company are making it the 
centre of their extensive coal 
mining enterprise. The coal 
region extends southward for 
nearly 80 m., the best coal 
being found between this place 
and liziika [Inn, Wata-ya).] 

On approaching Ongagawa, a good 
view is obtained of the mountains 
on the 1. of the line — Kurosaki- 
yama and Fukuchi-yama, — the 
highest point of the line (300 ft. 
above sea-level) being reached be- 
tween this station and 

Akama {Inn, Yone-ya). Soon we 
come in view of the stretch of sea 
called the Genkai Nacla. Just after 

Kasllii 9 the hot mineral springs 
of Arayu are observed 1. On leav- 
ing Hakozaki 9 one perceives the 
Shinto temple of Hachiman men- 
tioned below. It may be a good 
plan to alight here, visit the temple, 
etc., and rejoin the train at Hakata. 

Hakata (Inns, *Matsushima-ya, 
Kyo-ya) is the port of Fukuoka, 
the two practically forming but one 
town, as they are separated only 
by the Nakagawa. Formerly Ha- 
kata was the commercial quarter, 
and Fakuoka the samurai quarter. 
This twin city, one of the 
most prosperous in Kyushu, is 
chiefly noted for its silk fabrics, 
called Hakata-ori. The obi (sash) 
made of this material is an indis- 
pensable part of every Japanese 
lady's wardrobe. The best may be 
seen at Matsui's weaving establish- 
ment, close to the Matsushima-ya 
inn. These stuffs, some of which have 
a pattern imitating the shimmer of 
frost-crystals, or moonlit water 
slightly ruffled by the breeze, are 



426 



Route 59. — North-Western Kyushu. 



severe in taste although extremely 
rich. Another beautiful fabric, of 
more recent origin, is the trans- 
parent E-ori-ko7nij literally mean- 
ing " inwoven pictures," the thread 
being dyed beforehand in the proper 
places. 

The Public Garden is a broad belt 
of fir-trees laid out in walks and 
drives. It contains a memorial 
erected to Hojo Tokimune, the then 
de facto ruler of Japan, whose forces 
in the 13th century met and con- 
quered at this spot the fleet sent 
by Kublai Khan to conquer Japan. 
(The Japanese pronounce the 
name Kublai Kop-xMsu-retsu.) 

About 1 m. from the Public 
Garden is the celebrated Shinto 
temple known as Hakozaki Hachi- 
man-gu, standing in tastefully laid 
out grounds with a fine avenue of 
fir-trees extending down to the sea- 
shore. From this an excursion 
may be made to Najima, about 3 J 
m. by road, crossing a ferry over 
an arm of the sea close to the 
railway bridge, and turning 1. by 
the shore to a slight elevation 
on which stands a very old tem- 
ple dedicated to Benzaiten. The 
spot commands a fine view of 
the bay and islands. Below, on 
the shore, lie sections of a petrified 
fir-tree, said by tradition to be the 
mast of the junk in which the Em- 
press Jingo Kogo was wrecked when 
returning from Korea. On the way 
back to the town, we pass the dila- 
pidated Buddhist temple of Sofukuji, 
containing the handsome tombs of 
the former princes of Chikuzen, the 
first of whom was Kuroda Nagamasa 
(d. 1623), an influential Christian 
convert, commemorated in the let- 
ters of the Jesuit missionaries under 
the uame of Simon Condera. 

From the port of Hakata, which 
has a pier over 400 ft. in length, 
steamers to Nagasaki and the south, 
and to Shimon oseki and Osaka ply 
almost daily. 

Fuknoka (Imiy Kaiyo-kwan), 
formerly the residence of the Ku- 
roda family, princes of Chikuzen, 



and now capital of a prefecture, 
possesses many new buildings 
in foreign style. The Daimyo- 
machi and Tenjin-machi, extending 
from the castle to the Prefecture 
(Kencho), are exceptionally fine 
streets. The castle is occupied by a 
garrison of 2,000 men. The Public 
Garden (Nishi Kden) deserves a visit, 
for the sake of the views it affords. 
At the base seawards is a small 
shrine, and at low tide a pleasant 
walk brings one back to the town 
round the promontory. 

Atago-san may be ascended, for 
which J hr. will suffice. Jinriki- 
shas can be sent round to the 
western base, whence, continuing 
the excursion, we reach (2 ri further) 
Mei-no-hama. From here a detour 
should be made r. to a shrine of 
Bishamon, situated at the top of a 
lofty, well-wooded hill, which juts 
out into the sea and affords a 
charming view. Time, 1J hr. The 
road runs alternately by the sea 
and through fir plantations, and is 
extremely picturesque. 

The neighbourhood boasts two 
waterfalls. One, called Kwaran- 
taki, at the source of the Moromi- 
gawa, is distant about 4J ri, of which 
4 ri to the vill. of Ishigama can be 
done in jinrikisba. The fall mea- 
sures about 100 ft. in height. 
The other, called Baizan no Toro- 
daki, on Ikazuchi-yama, lies 3 ri 
off by jinrikisba, and 1J ri on foot. 

Futsukaichi is the station for 
Pazaifii (Inn, Izumi-ya), a little 
under 1 ri distant by a somewhat 
bad jinrikisha road. This is one of 
the most celebrated places in the 
south, both for historical reasons 

In early times Dazaifu was the seat of 
the Governor-Generalship of the island of 
Kyushu, — a post which, though apparently 
honourable, was often used as a form of 
exile for offenders of high rank. The 
most celebrated of these exiled governors 
was Sugawara-no-Michizane, who is wor- 
shipped under the name of Teirjin (see 
p. 48). 

and on account of the great Shinto 
temple dedicated to Tenjin, which is 



Dazaifu. Coal Mines. Kumamoto. 



427 



approached through a bronze torii 
built in 1782, and then over a high- 
arched bridge spanning a large pond. 
The courtyard contains a number of 
cows, lions, and owls in bronze and 
stone. Upon aioplication to the 
priests, various relics will be brought 
forth, including swords by famous 
smiths, a bronze statuette of Con- 
fucius, and some MSS. 

About 1 m. from Dazaifu stands 
the Buddhist temple of Kwanzeonji, 
founded in the 7th century. It is 
dedicated to Kwannon, whose colos- 
sal image, flanked by two others, 
occupies the principal building. A 
number of interesting relics are here 
shown. About 1J m. from the sta- 
tion, on the side opposite to Dazaif a, 
is the sulphur spring of Musashi- 
mura. Above this will be seen a 
prominent peak crowned by a single 
fir-tree, under which is a small 
shrine. This is Tempai-zan, which 
commands an extensive view, and 
from which Michizane, looking to- 
wards Kyoto, worshipped the Em- 
peror by whom he had been 
exiled. 

To all true Japanese the Mikado is a 
Gocl upon Earth (Iki-gami), and instinc- 
tively they put in practice the maxim, 
•' Though he slay me, yet will I trust in 
liim." 

The sights of Dazaifu may easily 
be done in 2 hrs., so that it will be 
sufficient fco stop between trains. 

Tosu, though a junction, is an 
insignificant hamlet. 

Kiirnme (Inns, Shio-ya, Matsu- 
ya), whirh stands on the 1. bank of 
the Chikugo-gawa, produces vast 
quantities of Jcasuri, a blue cotton 
figured fabric extensively used for 
clothing and bed-quilts. 

Yabe^awa is the station for 
Yanagawa, which possesses the re- 
mains of a castle. At Setaka, close 
by, is a large sake factory. Near 
Omnia (Bins, Jugo-an, Yamakawa- 
ya), the works of the Miihe Coal 
Mines are indicated by the smoke 
rising from them. The prisoners of 
the Shuchi-Juvan, one of the largest 
convict establishments in the em- 



pire, are employed to dig out the 
coal. This whole district is car- 
boniferous, Nana-ura, on the sea- 
shore 20 did from Omuta, being 
specially productive. 

Much rice is exported from 
Takase, where good views are ob- 
tained of Onsen-ga-take on the 
Shimabara peninsula. Near KoiiO- 
ha 9 but not visible from the railway, 
is a small eminence called Taivara- 
zaka, crowned by a monument to 
the memory of the soldiers who fell 
during the fierce fighting that raged 
for eighteen days in this neighbour- 
hood during the' Satsuma Rebellion. 
The monument is a monolith of 
white marble brought from Yatsu- 
shiro in 1878. 

Km ill am o to (Inn, *Togi-ya, with 
European food and beds ; and others 
near Semba-bashi), formerly the 
capital of the princes of Higo, and 
now the chief town of the prefecture 
of Kumamoto which comprises the 
two provinces of Higo and Chikugo, 
lies on the Shirakawa, 4 m. from the 
mouth of that river. It has fine streets 
planted with trees, and the remains 
of a magnificent castle built by Kato 
Kiy omasa, and now used as the head- 
quarters of a large garrison. Kuma- 
moto is redolent of Kato Kiyo- 
masa's memory, and possesses two 
temples in his honour —one called 
Kato-sha, in the style of pure 
Shinto, the other called Hommydji, 
belonging to the Nichiren sect of 
Buddhists whom Kato so zealously 
protected, while persecuting their 
enemies the Christians. This very 
popular temple, which is reached by 
a long flight of steps lined on either 
side by cherry-trees, is much resorted 
to by people possessed of the fox or 
labouring under other grave dis- 
orders. On great days of pilgrimage 
the cadenced prayer Namit Myoha 
Benge Kyo can be heard, like the 
roar of the waves, far beyond the 
sacred precincts. 

The citizens of Kumamoto are very 
proud of their park called Suizenji, 
once the garden of the country seat 
of the Hosokawa family. 



Kimbo-zan. Hiko-san. 



42£ 



It is half a day's expedition from 
Kumamoto to Kimbo-zan, 2,100 ft. 
above the sea, the first 30 cho being 
done by jinrikisha as far as the 
village of SJrimazaka, whence it is a 
walk up of about 3 ri by a rough 
path. The view from the top is very 
fine, taking in the gulf of Shimabara, 
the towering form of Fugen-dake on 
the Shimabara peninsula to the W., 
the island of Amakusa, and to the 
S. the Satsuma mountains. Almost 
due E. lies Aso-san, with its great 
columns of steam. Further N. runs 
another range of hills appearing to the 
1. of the road between Yamaga and 
Kumamoto, while below are the great 
plain, the city with its picturesque 
old castle, and the serpentine wind- 
ings of the Shirakawa. 

2. — From Kokura to Dazaifu via 
Hiko-san. 
Itinerary. 

KOKUEA to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Yobuno 4 10 10| 

Kawara 2 2 5J 

Soida 3 11 8 

Hiko-san 4 23 11J 

Koishiwara 3 — 7J 

Amagi 6 — 14J 

DAZAIFU 4 23 ll| 

Total 27 33 68 

There is fair accommodation at 
the chief villages passed through 
on this hilly route, which is only 
partly practicable for jinrikishas. 
The road traverses a cultivated 
plain between picturesque hills to 
Yobuno, at the foot of a ridge called 



Ryoga-no-hana. It then crosses 
the Kibi-toge, commanding a fine 
view of Kawara Ichi-no-take. From 
Saitojo the road ascends again, 
winding round this peak and round 
Kawara Ni-no-take, then descend- 
ing to the village of Kawara. Hence 
by jinrikisha to Soida, up the valley 
of a tributary of the Masuda-gawa, 
which takes its rise on Hiko-san, 
and after changing its name several 
times, as is the manner of Japanese 
rivers, falls into the sea between 
Kokura and Hakata. From Soida 
the road ascends the river bank 
to Masuda and Ochiai, where the 
river branches and the 1. branch 
is followed up a steep ravine. After 
1J hr. walk from Masuda, that 
portion of the Hiko-san Range 
known as Shojiku-take comes in 
view. The path now becomes 
rocky and ascends to Oiwake, 
whence we have a fine view of Kam- 
buku-yama, a conical wooded peak, 
and of Shojiku-take, a long grass- 
grown ridge. A flight of broad, 
rough steps leads to a bronze torii 
marking the entrance of the road 
to the shrine of Gongen Sama. 
This is a steep ascent of 42 cho by 
the most direct way. The vicinity 
of the vili. of 

Hiko-san, so called from the range 
on which it stands, has many good 
walks affording splendid views of K6- 
sho-san, Umami-yama, Kambuku, 
and other mountains. From Hiko- 
san, the traveller retraces his steps 
to Oiivake, where the road divides, 
the 1. branch leading towards the 
1 province of Chikuzen. As far as Shioi 



The illustration on the opposite page shows Kumamoto Castle in its 
original perfect state— a typical specimen of this style of edifice. The chief 
parts were : — 



1. Geba-bashi (Dismounting 

Bridge). 

2. Minami-zaka (Southern Ap- 

proach). 

3. The Daimyo's Residence. 

4. The South Gate. 

5. Taiko-yagura (Drum Turret). 



6. Take-no-maru. 

7. Ichi-no-tenshu (First Keep). 

8. Ni-no-tenshu (Second Keep). 

9. Udo-yagura (Turret). 

10. Umaya-bashi (Stable Bridge). 

11. Yabu-no-uchi-bashi (Bridge). 



430 



Eo ute 59. — North • Western Kyushu . 



{baths and inns), on the bank of 
the Shioi-gawa, the road is level. 
It then crosses the Kaifuku-toge 
and several other hills, before reach- 
ing the boundary between the pro- 
vinces of Buzen and Chikuzen, 8 cho 
on this side of 

Koishiwara. This place is noted 
for earthenware of a dark colour, 
made in the neighbourhood by des- 
cendants of Korean potters, who are 
said to have migrated hither after the 
conquest of their native country by 
Hideyoshi. Descending the valley 
of the Daikon-gawa, the road tra- 
verses a vast plain of arable land to 
Jizogaya, before arriving at the 
large town of 

Amagi (Inn, Mizuire-ya). Hence 
one may either proceed by jinriki- 
sha the whole way to Dazaifu, or 
turn aside at Yamae (Inns, Take- 
y&, Kokura-ya), whence to Futsuka- 
ichi on the railway is a distance of 

For Dazaifu see p. 426. 

3. — To Saga by the Tosu-Saga 
Branch of the Kyushu Rail- 
way, and on to Nagasaki by 
Road. 



Distance 
from 
Tosu. 


Narnes of Stations. 


5 m. 
10 
15£ 


TOSU 
Nakabaru. 
Kanzaki. 
SAGA. 



This short branch is traversed in 
less than 1 hr. There are pleasant 
green hills to the r. ; to the 1. is an 
extensive plain famous for its rice 
cultivation, the province of Hizen 
being said to produce in one year 
sufficient rice to feed its inhabitants 
for five years. 

Kanzaki is a large and flourish- 
ing town, noted chiefly for the 
manufacture of vermicelli and mac- 
caroni. 



8aga(Z?ms, Hitotsu-ya, Sakai-ya), 
an old and celebrated castle-town, 
was formerly the seat of the Nabe- 
shima family, princes of Hizen, 
whose present representative, Mar- 
quis Nabeshima, now occupies the 
post of Grand Master of Ceremonies 
at the Imperial Court, and was for- 
merly Japanese Minister to Italy. 
The chief feature of the place is the 
Shimbaba park, which contains 
shrines (Matsubara Jinja) dedicated 
to the memory of the ancestors of 
the Nabeshimas. The temple court 
is full of monuments in stone, 
bronze, and porcelain. A festival 
is held annually on the 10th and 
11th April. Of the old castle little 
now remains ; but a splendid effect 
is produced in August, when the 
extensive moats are filled with 
lotus-flowers. 

About \ ri to the N. of the castle 
stands Kbno no Chaya, the Nabe- 
shimas' country-seat, with a pretty 
garden which, in the absence of the 
family, visitors are shown over by 
courtesy of the custodian. 

Saga was the scene of one of the 
small civil wars which followed the great 
revolution of 1868, when feudalism was 
making its last struggle against Im- 
perialism and Europeanisation. Eto Shim- 
pei, sometime Minister of Justice under 
the new Imperial Government, having 
returned to his home in Saga, raised the 
standard of revolt, expecting all Kyushu 
to follow him. In this, however, he was 
disappointed, and the rising was put down 
in ten days. Eto and ten other ringleaders 
were condemned to death, and their heads 
exposed on the pillory. This took place 
in 1874. 

By leaving Saga early with two 
jinrikisha-men, the 1.30 p.m. boat 
to Tokitsu for Nagasaki may be 
caught at Sonogi, passing through 
Takeo and Ureshino (see p. 419). 
Should the boat be missed, it is 
possible by taking fresh runners to 
reach Nagasaki the same evening, 
as the road is generally well-main- 
tained throughout. The way winds 
round the head of the Gulf of 
Omura until the main road leading 
from Nagasaki to Isahaya is joined, 
a description of which will be found 
on p. 423. 



Route 60. — The Yabakei Valley. 



431 



The following is the whole iti- 
nerary by road : — 

SAGA to :— Bi. Clio. M. 

Ushizu 2 18 6 

Oda 2 5 5J 

Kitataka 2 12 5f 

TAKEO (Tsukaza- 

ki) 1 15 3 J 

Ureshino 3 27 9J 

Sonogi 3 5 7f 

Omura 4 24 11J 

Eisho 3 — 7J 

Yagami 3 32 9J 

NAGASAKI 3 17 8J 

Total 30 10 74 



4.— Feom Hakata to Saga oveb 
the Mountains. 

Itinerary. 
HAKATA to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Sowara 32 2| 

Tamura 1 16 3J 

Iiba 1 20 3f 

Mitsuze-yama 1 27 4J 

Sandanda 3 9 8 

Daichigawara .... 2 13 5f 

SAGA 2 1 5 

Total 13 10 32J 



Nine ri of this road are generally 
practicable for jinrikishas. The por- 
tion between Iiba and Sandanda 
must be walked. Near Sandanda 
is a fine waterfall 250 ft. high, called 
Kiyomizu-no-taki, with a shrine de- 
dicated to Kwannon. There are 
also two or three small spas in this 
neighbourhood, of which the best is 
Furuyu, possessing several good 
inns. Further noteworthy are the old 
Buddhist temple of Jisso-in and the 
Shinto shrine of Yodo-hime, the 
oldest in Kyushu, quaintly situated 
by the riverside at the foot of the 
mountains, and much resorted to 
by holiday-makers from Saga. 



5. — From Hakata by the Coast 
to Hamasaki and Arita. 

Itinerary. 

HAKATA to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Meinohama 2 3 5 

Imajuku 1 17 3| 

Maebaru 1 31 4 J 

Fukae 2 7 5J 

Hamasaki 4 9 10J 

Tokusue 4 — 9f 

Imari 4 8 loj 

ARITA 3 19 8| 

Total 23 22 57J 

This picturesque trip is practi- 
cable for jinrikishas throughout, and 
may be continued on to Nagasaki by 
reversing Excursion No. 3 given on 
pp. 419-20. About 2J ri off the road 
from Maebaru {Inn, K6ji-ya), is a 
singular cavern which can only be 
entered from the sea. Boats for 
this purpose are obtainable at the 
vill. of Keiya. Near Hamasaki 
(Inn, Manju-ya), lies the town of 
Karatsu, noted for its coal. 

Imari and Arita, see p. 420. 



BOUTE 60. 

The Yabakei Valley. 

1. — Kurume to Yabakei and 
Nakatsu. 

Yabakei is the name applied to a 
portion of the valley of the Taka- 
se-gawa, a little S. of the vill. of 
Hida in Buzen (not to be confounded 
with Hita in Bungo) and to the side 
valley of a small affluent, the Atoda- 
gawa, which there falls in. The 
stretch most famous for its beauty 
is that near the forking of the streams 
at the hamlet of Ao. Yabakei 
may _be reached from Nakatsu, 
from Oita and Beppu via the former 
castle-town of Mori, — a moun- 
tainous route of some 16 ri which 
brings one to the upper waters of 



482 



Boute 60. — The Yabakei Valley. 



the above-named affluent, — from 
Kumamoto, or from Kurume or 
Futsukaichi station on the Kyushu 
Railway. This last is considered 
the regular route by the Japanese, 
the choice between starting from 
Kurume (the old road leading up 
the 1. bank of the Nishiki-gawa, 
also called Chikugo-gawa) and 
starting from Futsukaichi (the new 
road which leads up the r. bank), 
depending on the state in which 
each of these may happen to be 
after floods, repairs, etc. Jinrikishas 
can be taken all the way, — two men 
necessary, at any rate from Yoshii 
onwards. Time 2 days, stopping 
the first night at Hita in Bungo. 
The first day is a very short one, and 
it would be quite possible to reach 
Hita in one day from Hakata by 
taking the first train thence to Ku- 
rume or Futsukaichi. 

Itinerary. 

KURUME to :— Ri. Clio. M. 

Yoshii 6 16 15f 

HITA(Kuma) ..5 9 12f 

Morizane 4 10 10 J 

Miyazono 1 31 4J 

Ao... 3 27 9J 

Hida in Buzen . . 7 J 

NAKATSU 3 12 8| 

Total 25 4 61J 



Leaving Kurume (Inns, Shio-ya, 
Matsu-ya), one proceeds E. towards 
the hills, the highest point of which 
is Kora-san, at whose foot, 2 ri from 
Kurume, stands a famous Shinto 
temple, the goal of many pilgrim- 
ages,— festival on the 9th day of 
the 9th moon, old style. The object 
is not to cross this range, but to 
turn it by bendiug to the N. for a 
short while ; and so one continues 
the whole way to Yoshii along a 
good road over a level fertile plain, 
bordered on the 1. at a greater dis- 
tance by another mountain range. 
The vegetable wax-tree is the domi- 
nant tree all over this district. 

Yoshii (fair inn) is a good-sized 
town. At Yamakita, 1 j ri beyond 



Yoshii, the road begins to ascend 
the Myoji-ga-toge by the side of the 
dashing Nishiki-gawa, which is fol- 
lowed up most of the way to 

Hita. This is a double town, the 
part we arrive at being called Kuma 
{Inn by Kogo), while the other half 
is called Mameda (Inn, Arimura). 
The two are separated by an open 
space some 6 clw wide, and both 
formerly boasted small castles. Hita 
is still the residence of numerous lite- 
rati of the old Chinese school. 

[The way (Shindo) from Futsu- 
kaichi to Hita via Amagi and 
Kugumiya is nearly 2 ri shorter, 
and brings the traveller out at 
Mameda.] 

A long ascent leads from Mame- 
da over the Morizane-toge (also call- 
ed Kurizane-toge), much of which 
must be walked. Hiko-san, some 
3 ri distant, is well seen from the top 
of the pass. The scenery about 
Miyazono gives a slight foretaste of 
the curious rockery which culmi- 
nates a few miles lower down. At 
the bridge of Ao (Inn, *Dai-ichi-ro) 
one alights to see the beauties of the 
place ; for this is 

Yabakei proper, — the neighbour- 
hood whose pinnacled and castel- 
lated crags so many poets have 
sung. They resemble the apparently 
impossible mountains of Chinese 
and Japanese kakemonos; and 
whether the European traveller be 
or be not as much entranced by the 
scene as a native, he will at least 
allow that it is most characteristic. 
About J hr. walk up the side stream, 
the Atoda-gawa, stands the celebrat- 
ed and extremely curious Buddhist 
temple of Rakanji, built on the side 
of a steep hill, and containing an 
immense number of stone images, — 
some in shallow caves, some in the 
open. There are said to be no less 
than 3,700 images on this and the op- 
| posite hill, where the temple forrner- 
] ly stood. Any one sleeping at Ao, or 
! less conveniently at 

Hida (Inn, Saiwai-ya), could 
; spend one or two delightful days ex- 



Route 61. •■ — Through N.E. Kyushu to Kumamoto. 433 



ploring the neighbourhood, especial- 
ly the upper course of the Atoda- 
gawa. Some of the finest rocks, 
with cuttings along the cliff, occur 
a little below Ao ; but 1 ri further 
down, the peculiar scenery ends, and 
the road lies mostly away from the 
river. There is, however, consider- 
able beauty all the way to Nakatsu 
(see next page) , owing to the fantastic 
chains of hills which appear to 
close in the plain on either side. 

2. — Kumamoto to Hita (for 

Yabakei) . 

Itinerary. 

KUMAMOTO to :— Ri. Cho. M. 

Tateno 7 27 19 

Boju 3 21 8J 

Miyachi 1 3 2f 

Uchinomaki .... 2 10 5^ 

Ichinoharu 4 25 11J 

Miyanoharu .... 31 2 
Ideguchi (Degu- 

chi)_ 3 27 9J 

Nishi-Oyama 2 26 6| 

HITA (Mameda). . 2 20 6| 

Total 29 10 71 J 

Jinrikishas can be taken across 
the plain as far as 

Uchinomaki (several small inns). 
From here the path leads across a 
bleak desolate range of hills to 

Ichinoharu, which lies in a 
valley. 

Miyanoharu is situated in the 
next valley, across a small ridge. 
From here the path is steep up 
and down to* 

Tsuitate 9 a tiny spa which 
nestles in a picturesque gorge, and 
consists of about forty inns. The 
springs bubble up close to the river 
bank, some indeed in the rapid 
stream itself. 

These mineral springs— so tradition 
says— were discovered by some followers 
of the Empress .lingo, who espied them 
from the mountain above, whence the 
name of Yu-mi-yama, or "Hot spring View- 
ing Mountain." 

A fine waterfall is passed before 
reaching 



Ideguchi or Deguchi, the way 
to which is a succession of ascents 
and descents, and often little more 
than a series of steps. From Ide- 
guchi the route leads across a park- 
like country studded with pine-trees, 
the mountains beyond helping to 
make a charming picture. 

Hita (see previous page) . 



ROUTE 61. 

North - Eastern Kyushu and 

across country to kumamoto. 

Itinerary. 

KOKURA to :— Ri. Cho. M. 

Sone.._. 2 13 5| 

Gyoji (Ohashi) . . 3 23 9 

Shiida 3 14 8| 

Hachiya 2 9 5J 

NAKATSU 2—5 

Yokkaichi 4 7 10J 

Usa 1 9 3 

Tateishi 3 20 8j 

Hiji 5 — 121 

Beppu 3 22 8J 

OITA 3 — 7| 

Notsubara 3 3 7J 

Takeno-toge 4 — 9f 

TAKEDA 4 — 9| 

Sugabu 2 32 7 

Sasakura 2 5 5 J 

Miyachi 2 11 5 J 

Boju 1 3 2f 

Tateno 3 21 8* 

KUMAMOTO.... 7 27 19" 

Total 64 26 158 



This route, embracing as it does 
the natural marvels of Beppu and 
Takeda and the beauties of the 
neighbourhood of Aso-san, may be 
reckoned one of the most interest- 
ing in Japan. It will be still more 
so if the Yabakei valley, described 
in the previous Route, be visited from 
Nakatsu. The least attractive part 
is the 13J?'ifrom Kokura to Nakatsu, 
which may be avoided by taking 



484 Route 61. — Through N.E. Kyushu to Kumamoto. 



the steamer that leaves Moji daily 
for the latter port. 

The road out of Kokura is ex- 
cellent, and jinrikishas may be 
availed of. There are also basha — 
very small, very low, apparently 
springl ess, and without seats, six 
guests packed like herrings squat- 
ting in them a la japonaise. One 
horse draws this palace on wheels. 

Pretty views are obtained of the 
sea with islands ; and after a time 
the Fuji of Bungo (Yufu-dake), 
Tsurumi-dake, Inu-ga-take, and 
other picturesque mountains are 
seen ahead and to the r. 

Gyoji (Inn, Udon-ya) and Ohaslli 
are separated only by a bridge. 
After passing Hachiya, one sees 
the Mole of Ushima, thanks to 
which, in the last century, a better 
harbour was obtained than any 
other in the neighbourhood, Nakatsu 
and Nagasu both being wretched in 
that respect. 

Nakatsu {Inns, Sarasa-ya, Tsuta- 
ya), although a large town, labours 
under the disadvantages of its bad 
harbour and of the growing im- 
portance of Moji. From this to the 
vill. of Yokkaichi on the r. will be 
observed a high, detached moun- 
tain called Hachimen-zan, or the 
" Eight-faced Mountain." It has 
a singular conformation, much 
resembling near the summit an ivy- 
covered fortress. The next 3 ri are 
flat and uninteresting. The ground 
then rises steadily, leaving the sea. 
From Tamashita onwards the 
scenery becomes picturesque. One 
mile beyond Yokkaichi {Inn, Nara- 
ya), the road crosses the Hyakkwan 
river. 

Usa (Lin, Okamoto-ya) lies at the 
bottom of a basin formed by sur- 
rounding hills. The road leads 
under a fine large brass torii, cross- 
es the river (here flowing through a 
rocky ravine) by a handsome covered 
bridge coloured red, and then passes 
under an antique gateway. Beyond 
this a wide street leads to a pretty 
park, where stand three Shinto 



shrines dedicated respectively to the 
Emperors Ojin and Chuai and to the 
Empress Jingo, all bright red and 
embowered in trees. They are 
famous throughout Kyushu under 
the name of TJsa-no-IIachiman. 

As soon as the province of Bungo is 
entered, the scenery becomes bolder, 
hills rising on each side to a height 
of 1,000 ft. At Mukunoto is a large 
reservoir formed by the damming up 
of the valley. 

Tatesshi (Inn, Ebisu-ya). Pass- 
ing Kinzan-bashi, the road becomes 
level and the view gradually opens 
out. We then descend a steep 
hill and reach Nobara-mura, from 
which a road 1. goes direct to Hiji ; 
but that to the r. is recommended for 
the scenery. Crossing the river 
Gogawa, a steep pull of 1 hr. up a 
good road leads to the top of the 
Kanagoi-toge. Here a halt should be 
made, and one of the peaks ascended 
for the sake of the view, for which 10 
min. will suffice. Yufu-dake is seen 
to the S. ; Karaki-yama to the W. ; 
there is a magnificent panorama of 
the coast and bay from Kizuki N. to 
Oita S., and oi the Bungo Channel ; 
the Gulf of Oita lies below. The 
road descends by steep gradients to 
the_shore. A fine road winds round 
to Oita, 1 m. from the foot of the 
mountain. Wide sands extend for 
the next ri to Tanegaioa, a dirty 
village with a curious arrangement 
of open hot baths, one to about every 
six houses, on both sides of the 
street. The water comes from the 
hot springs above Beppta. Immense 
numbers of dwarf mulberry-trees 
remind one that Bungo is noted 
for its silk. 

Beppu (Inn, *Hinago-ya), besides 
being a port of call for steamers, is 
a celebrated resort on account of 
its hot baths. Every street has a 
public bath-house, and the water is 
also led into the hotels, the whole 
ground of the semi-circular flat that 
girds the bay being undermined by 
volcanic vapours and hot water. In 
the suburb of Hamaivake, on the 
shore across the river Asami, are 



Baths of Beppu. Oita. 



435 



two very large bath-houses called 
the Eastern and Western Baths 
(Higashi no yu and Nisid no yu). 
Each accommodates about 400 pa- 
tients, the sight of whom bathing is a 
unique spectacle. The baths, which 
are sunk in the ground, are gra- 
duated to suit all sorts of chronic 
diseases, and on the pillars are 
labels giving the requisite informa- 
tion. The sea-water flows in gently 
at high tide, thus reducing the tem- 
perature. Visitors are warned in 
the native guide-book "not to kill 
the ox while straightening the 
horns," that is, not to injure their 
constitutions in the effort to cure 
a local affection. The temperature 
of the waters, which are alkaline 
and chalybeate with large quantities 
of carbonic acid gas, is from 100° 
to 132° F. 

To the S.W., on the bay, is a lofty 
precipice called Takazaki — easily 
ascended from the land side — whose 
summit commands a glorious view. 

[No person eager for new sights 
and not over-squeamish, should 
fail to visit the solfataras from 
which the hot baths are sup- 
plied, — a distance of 1 ri 8 did 
by jinrikisha to the vill. of 
Kannaioa-mura. Open hot baths 
will be noticed at intervals by 
the roadside. In the village 
is a steam bath-house which 
holds sixteen persons at a time. 
It is walled round with stone 
and roofed in, and has but a 
small aperture for ventilation. 
The floor is a lattice, under 
which rushes a stream of 
natural boiling water. The 
entrance is by a low door 
covered with a straw mat, 
beneath a curious shrine. In- 
tending bathers wait in a large 
ante-room in a state of nudity, 
each paying 10 sen for the day, 
and receiving a tally. As soon 
as one emerges from under the 
mat, another gives up his tally 
and enters, each stopping in 
for about an hour. The bathers 



come out covered with drop- 
pings of mud and rushes which 
fall from the roof, and hasten 
to cool themselves at a large 
pool on the other side of the 
street under six spouts of fresh 
water. Along the sides of the 
village street are to- be seen 
kettles and saucepans set to 
boil over holes in the ground. 
Large quantities of natural hot 
water flow through pipes from 
the springs above the village; 
and opposite the door of each 
house is a set of holes for cook- 
ing purposes, covered with sods 
when not wanted. The largest 
geyser, Umi Jigoku, is prettily 
situated under a leafy bank. 
It measures 42 ft. in diameter, 
and the water, which is intensely 
green, boils with great force, 
but does not rise above 2 or 3 ft. 
Another, called Ishi Jigoku, is 
full of reddish stones ; a third, 
Bdzn Jigoku, situated in a wood 
of firs and bamboos near by, 
also deserves a visit. This 
geyser consists of light grey 
mud, and emits a deafening 
noise.] 

Behind the town of Beppu rises 
Tsttrumi-yama, the centre of all this 
volcanic activity. To explore its 
well-wooded ravines would no doubt 
well repay the trouble taken. 
Yufu-dake, also called the Bun go 
Fuji on account of its conical shape, 
stands at the back of Beppu. 

The_trip by jinrikisha from Bep- 
pu to Oita is one of the most pic- 
turesque in Japan. On the r. are 
high cliffs covered with foliage, the 
sea is far below, and mountains 
rise in the distance. 

Oita (Inn by Mizuno), capital of 
the prefecture of the same name, is 
a large and busy port with straggling 
suburbs. The chief manufacture 
is silk yarn, which is produced in 
large quantities. 

It was to this place that the Portuguese 
adventurer, Mendez Pinto, found his way 
in the year 1543, when he had discovered 



436 Route 61. — Through N.E. Kyushu to Kumamoto. 



Japan, and met with a friendly reception 
from the local Daimyo. The wonders of 
his arquebnse, the first explosive weapon 
ever seen by the Japanese, are still spoken 
of by the townsfolk. The great Jesuit mis- 
sionary, St. Francis Xavier, also spent 
some_time at Oita a few years later; 
and Otomo, the lord of Funai, as Oita 
used to be called, was the first Daimyo to 
become a Christian. 

After leaving Oita, the road runs 
between rocky walls covered with 
foliage to 

Notsubara. One mile before 
reaching the vill. there is a saline 
spring, which also contains car- 
bonic acid gas. Notsubara lies in 
the middle of a very large crater, 
having perpendicular walls of rock 
covered with vegetation. Through 
this crater runs a river which 
the road crosses on two parallel 
bridges (Tsurtctsic-bashi), one low 
for dry seasons, and one very high 
for flood-time. On passing over the 
top of the crater wall, a lovely view 
opens out. The road continues 
through wild and picturesque 
scenery, until at 5 ri from Oita it 
emerges on a plateau. Again it 
ascends for 1^ ri to the top of the 
Takeno-toge, where the Fujiya inn 
offers rough but welcome shelter. 
The descent is through well-wood- 
ed country to 

Takeda (Inn, by Kawamura in 
Teramachi). This remarkable place, 
which was once a Daimyo's seat, 
is shut out from the rest of the 
world by a natural wall of lime- 
stone about 180 ft. high and from 
20 ft. to 30 ft. broad. This wall 
rises almost perpendicularly from 
the plain, and completely encloses 
the town, through which runs a broad 
river, the Inaba-gawa. Access was 
formerly obtained by a sloping path 
to the summit outside, and by a 
similar one inside. About twenty-five 
years ago, seven or eight tunnels were 
cut through the rock, 18 ft. wide and 
20 ft. high. The southern tunnel is 
180 yds. long, 15 ft. wide, and 12 ft. 
high, and has a deep well near 
the outer entrance. Close to it 
is a singular waterfall in a zigzag, 
called Shira-taki, the left face 200 



ft. wide, the right forming an en- 
tering angle 35 ft. and 25 ft., 
the whole being about 30 ft. high. 
As one approaches the outside of 
the rocky wall, there is no sign 
whatever of any human dwellings 
beyond ; but then comes the plunge 
through the damp, dark hole, and 
on emerging into daylight one finds 
oneself on the outskirts of the clean 
and busy little town of 8,000 in- 
habitants, which played a prominent 
part in the Satsuma Rebellion. 
Four ri from Takeda on the east, 
is a second grand fall of 300 ft., 
called Chinda. Prisoners condemn- 
ed to death were precipitated over 
this in ancient times, and if they 
escaped alive were pardoned. On 
the west, about 4 ri distant, is the 
Shinomizu fall, 180 ft. high. 

On leaving Takeda, the road gra- 
dually ascends until a ridge about 
1,500 ft. above sea-level is reached, 
which affords splendid views. At 
the village of 

Sngabu, the road joins the old 
main road from Oita, now little 
used. On the 1. rises Sobo-san, on 
the r. Kuju-san, and in front Aso- 
san with its pillar of smoke. There 
is an inn at Sasakura, soon after 
leaving which vill. the road enters a 
ravine. The descent is unusually steep 
for nearly 1,000 ft., — in fact it is a 
plunge into the old Crater of Aso-san 
with its teeming hamlets, the first of 
these, about a mile from the bottom 
of the descent, being 

Sakanashi (Inn, Sonoda-ya). On 
the 1. rises Neko-dake, and on the r. 
the rocky wall of the old crater 
sweeping round in a majestic circle. 
Miyachi lies a little off the main 
road. From 

Bojii, there is a jinrikisha road 
all the way to 

Kumamoto (see p. 427). 



Route 62. — Aso-san. 



437 



EOUTE 62. 

Aso-san. 
An excursion to this, the largest 
crater in the world, may best 
be made from Kumamoto, and can 
be easily accomplished in 2 days, 
mostly by jinrikisha. Nor is the 
crater the sole attraction, for the 
whole country round Aso-san is 
singularly beautiful. 

The five peaks of Aso-san are called 
Kineshima-dake, Eboshi-dake, Naka- 
dake, Taka-dake, and Neko-dake. The 
crater, which measures from 10 to 14 
miles in diameter, is popularly said to 
contain a hundred villages; but this 
round number is an exaggeration. Erup- 
tions of Aso-san have been chroni- 
cled from the beginning of Japanese his- 
tory. The last was in February, 1884, 
when immense quantities of black ashes 
and dust were ejected and carried by the 
wind as far as Kumamoto, where for 
three days it was so dark that artificial 
light had to be used. The crops in many 
of the fields in the intervening valley were 
destroyed by the ashes. Great activity 
also marked the volcano and geysers in 
1839, at the time of the earthquake on the 
28th July, which did much damage in 
Kumamoto and was felt severely 70 miles 
away. Those desirous of further details 
concerning this remarkable locality, will 
find them in a paper by Prof. John Milne, 
P.R.S., in Vol. IX, Pt. II, of the Transac- 
tions of the Seismological Society of Japan. 

Some after leaving Kumamoto, 
the road descends r. to the bank of 
the river; and straight ahead is seen 
the lofty column of steam ascend- 
ing from Yunotan, half-way up the 
mountain side. The whole distance 
to Boju is 11 ri 12 cho (27f m.). At a 
distance of 7 ri 27 cho (19 m.), 
from Kumamoto stands Tateno (Inn, 
Oyama), situated between two 
lofty mountains — Kitamuki-yama 
on the r., and Tateno-yama on 
the 1. At this point it is well to 
leave the jinrikishas, sending them 
on to Boju, and to visit Tochinoki 
Sliinyu on the r. of the road, from 
which the ascent can be made via 
Yunotan to the crater of Aso-san, 
and the descent thence to Boju. 

[Should the traveller be going 
on from this place to Oita, he 
should proceed about -J- mile be- 



fore leaving the road for To- 
chinoki, and visit two cascades 
— Shiraito-no-taki and Suga- 
ruga-no-taki — formed by the 
fall of the river Kurokawa over 
a ledge of black rocks. They 
are close to the roadside, a nar- 
row path descending for a few 
yards to a small jutting plateau 
crowned with trees. Standing 
on this, we see both falls at 
once, Shiraito on the r., 
Sugaruga on the 1. Dobin- 
dake rises in the background, 
the whole forming a perfect 
picture whose rare beauty will 
never be forgotten.] 

The road descends from Tateno 
on the r. for about Jm., then by a 
zigzag to the river bank opposite Ta- 
wara-yama. Here two streams meet 
at the foot of a precipice some 500 
ft. high, clothed with verdure ; and 
on a jutting rock stands the inn of 
Tochinoki Shinyu. The hot springs 
are close by, with a special bath for 
foreigners. There is also a villa 
called Tohita, formerly belonging to 
the Daimyo Hosokawa, where a 
polite request for accommodation 
will generally meet with a favour- 
able response. From this place a 
mountain path for 2 m. along the 
ravine leads to the old spa, where 
people of all ages and both sexes 
disport themselves in al fresco baths 
ingeniously erected against the side 
of the hill. Descending to the 
water a few steps to the 1., we find 
ourselves opposite to Aigaeri, a 
fine waterfall. In order to save 
time, a guide should be procured at 
Tochinoki. A steady ascent thence 
leads over a grassy moor to Yuno- 
tan, 1^ ri. The view of the valley 
behind, in the direction of Kuma- 
moto, is remarkably fine. At Yuno- 
tan (inn with hot baths), is a great 
geyser of red mud and boiling water, 
varying from 12 ft. to 18 ft. in 
height, and about 30 ft. in diameter. 
From this a steady walk of 2 hrs. 
takes one to the summit. About 
J m. from the crater is a temporary 



438 Route 63. — From Kumamoto to Nobeoha and Oita. 



village, only occupied from March 
to October by sulphur workers. 
One or two of these men will 
accompany the visitor to the crater, 
and point out to him the best 
way over the cinders and scorise. 
On surmounting the ridge, there 
is a descent of about 15 ft. to 
a bed of ashes which fills half the 
cavity. From the edge of this we 
look down to the orifice about 150 
feet below, from which boiliDg water 
and masses of sulphur are con- 
stantly ejected with loud detona- 
tions. The guide will climb down and 
procure a lump of crude sulphur 
quite hot ; but visitors are not 
allowed to descend, owing to the 
danger. About forty people live at 
the village during the summer, some 
of whom generally fall victims to 
accidents during the course of the 
season. A sacred sword preserved 
in a temple on Aso-san is much 
venerated by the people, and watch- 
ed over day and night by an official 
in antique garb. 

The descent to Boju, 2 hrs., 
reveals the wonderful panorama of 
the old crater, out of which rises a 
modern peak. The walls surrounding 
it are about 800 ft. high ; and the 
bottom, which - seems quite level, 
is studded with villages. Boju is 
situated at the end farthest from 
Kumamoto, about 1J ri from the 
eastern wall. 

The road back runs almost due 
west for 3J ri to Tateno. On the 1. 
we see Aso-san and Dobin-dake, and 
the pillar of steam from Yunotan ; 
on the r., the old road ascending to 
the Futa-ai-no-toge. A fine bridge 
crosses the Kurokawa at the exit 
from the old crater, and 1 ri further 
we reach the waterfalls and Tateno 
already described. 



BOUTE 63. 

From Kumamoto to Nobeoka and 
Oita. [Nobeoka to Miyazaki, 
fukuyama, and kagoshima.] 

ascent of sobo-san. the rapids- 
of the gokase-gawa and the. 

ONAGAWA. 

Itinerary. 

KUMAMOTO to :— Ri Clio. M. 

Mifune 4 13 10§ 

Hamamachi (Yabe) 6 31 16f 

Mamihara 5 30 14J 

Mitai 6 — 14f 

Miyamizu 4 18 11 

Shimmachi 3 — 7J 

Takeshita 1 — 2J 

NOBEOKA (b^hrs. 

by boat, or) 6 18 15f 

Kumada 4 7 10J 

Shigeoka 6 — 14| 

Onoichi 2 3 5 

Miya-no-ichi 4 29 llf 

Hosonaga 3 — 7J 

Tsurusaki (5 hrs. 

by boat) 

OITA 2 10 5 J 

Total 60 15 147J- 

Plus 5 hrs. by boat. 

[The above itinerary is that of 
the main road. In order to 
ascend $obo-$ai2, a more 
northerly road has to be follow- 
ed for the first portion of the 
route, namely to Shinyu, — a 3 
hrs. journey, all by jinrikisha 
except the last \ hr. (p. 437). It- 
is a walk of 9J ri from Shinyu 
to Kawachi, passing through 
Shimmachi and Takamori (Inn y 
Sakai-ya), 5 ri from Shinyu. 
From Kawachi the ascent of 
Sobo-san is made, — a moun- 
tain by some considered to be 
the highest in Kyushu, though 
the palm is more generally 
awarded to Kirishima-yama 
further to the south (see page 
443). Leaving Takamori, a climb 



Sobo-san, Nobeoka, Miyazaki to Kagoshima, 



439 



of i hr. leads to the top of a pass, 
2,950 ft. above the sea, a little 
beyond which Sobo-san comes in 
sight. The road onwards is one 
of continuous ups and downs; 
but the country is very beauti- 
ful, especially where the path 
crosses the narrow valley called 
Kawabashiri, 2| ri from Taka- 
mori. Magnificent cryptomerias 
rise up on the opposite side of 
the valley, some being nearly 
200 ft. in height, and present- 
ing a most imposing aspect 
when viewed from the valley be- 
. low. From Kawachi (Inn, Kaji- 
ya), 1,500 ft. above the sea, the 
way up Sobo-san lies over the 
Mieno-toge, 2,800 ft. high, and 
through the vill. of GokasJio, 
1J hr., the actual ascent com- 
mencing at a torrent-bed § hr. 
from the latter place. The climb, 
which is very rough and steep 
— especially the last 1,000 ft. 
— will take a good mountaineer 
2 hrs., or 5 hrs. from Kawachi 
including stoppages. The pro- 
fusion of maples on the sides 
of the mountain opposite is a 
wonderful spectacle in autumn. 
From the summit of Sobo, 6,100 
ft., there is a grand panorama of 
mountains stretching range be- 
yond range and peak beyond 
peak. To the N.E. appears_the 
sea in the vicinity of Oita, 
and even the island of Shikoku 
is visible in clear weather. A 
torii and a small stone shrine 
crown the summit. The de- 
scent to Kawachi takes 4J 
hrs., whence it is 3 J ri to the 
point where the main Nobeoka 
road is joined at Mitai, the 
whole way being marvellously 
beautiful, — worthy of Switzer- 
land itself.] 

After Mitai, the road enters a 
magnificent gorge through which 
runs a deep, emerald green river 
with rocky walls rising on either 
side to a height of many hundred 
feet. These walls once formed part 



of a huge stream of lava which 
flowed down from the crater of Aso- 
san. 

Miyaitiizu (fair accommodation) 
is prettily situated among the hills. 
The road onwards follows the Go- 
kase-gawa to Shimmachi, the copper 
mines in whose vicinity were former- 
ly of some note. At 

Takesliita, boat can be taken 
down the river, which has some 
foaming rapids and overhanging 
rocks. Traps are used on this river 
for catching trout. They con- 
sist of a kind of chevaux de frise, 
made of bamboo and fixed trans- 
versely across the stream at the top 
of the rapids, the force of the current 
being there so great that the fish, 
when once caught in the trap, find 
escape impossible. 

Nobeoka (Inn, Kome-ya) is a 
considerable town built on both 
sides of the Gokase-gawa. Not far 
off is Nunobiki-taki, one of the 
finest waterfalls in Japan, whose 
height is estimated at 240 ft., its 
breadth at 30 ft. 

Nobeoka was the last stronghold of the 
Satsuma rebels. On the 14tli August, 
1877, the town surrendered — 8,000 insur- 
gents, among whom nearly 3,000 wounded, 
giving themselves up. The rebel chief 
t-aigo, with 500 devoted followers, fought 
his way out and escaped to Kagoshima. 

[The dreary stretch of coast 
southwards from Nobeoka to 
Miyazaki can be traversed by 
jinrikisha with two men in one 
day. It takes another day thence, 
via Miyakoiiojo, to reach Fmku- 
yama on the shores of the Gulf 
of Kagoshima. The province of 
Hyuga, through which most of 
the way lies, is sparsely inhabit- 
ed by a population pcor, primi- 
tive, and holding little inter- 
course with the outer world. 
The best Inns are as follows : 
At Miyazaki, Seiwa-kwan, 

,, Miyakonojo, Mochinaga. 

„ Fukuyama, Joki no Tonya, 
From here small steamers ply 
across the bay to Kagoshima, 
a distance of 21 miles.] 



440 



Bo ate 64 . — Kagosh una . 



Though much less beautiful than 
the first half of the journey, jbhe 
second half from Nobeoka to Oita 
is yet not devoid of interest. On 
leaving Nobeoka, the road follows 
up the Kitagawa from its mouth 
until it becomes a tiny rill. The 
Akamatsu-togc, 1,250 ft. above the 
sea, is passed about 1 ri before 
reachiug 

Shigeoka (poor accommodation). 
The chief feature of the next day's 
journey consists in the high passes 
that have to be crossed — first the 
Onoiclii-toge, where a fierce battle 
was fought during the Satsuma 
Rebellion, and the Mikuni-tdge, 
2,150 ft. high, so called because 
portions of the three provinces of 
Hyuga, Bungo, and Higo are visible 
from the top. The view is a very 
fine one. 

On the top of the Mikuni-toge is the 
grave of the Daimyo of Mimizu, who, 
during the rebellion, was surprised by 
the Imperial troops in a rude fort which 
he had constructed, and together with his 
followers was captured and slain. 

From the summit of the pass to 

Miyfi-no-ichi (Inn, *Fuji-ya), is 
about 2 ri of constant ascents and 
descents. Quitting this town, the 
road at first passes along a fine 
avenue of crytomerias, and then 
descends to meet the river Onagawa 
at Hosonagcij a small cluster of 
houses. Travellers here usually 
abandon the road, and engage a 
boat for the rest of the way to Tsn- 
rusaki on the coast, whence by 
jinrikisha to 

Oita (see p. 435). The voyage 
down the river includes the shooting 
of a remarkably fine rapid. 

If it be wished to shorten this 
trip and yet retain the best part of 
it, the boat journey from Hosonaga 
may stop at Ichiba, which is only 
an hour or so down the river 
and includes the finest rapid. From 
Ichiba a road runs almost due W. to 
Takcda, the distance being about 
7i ri. 



ROUTE 64. 

Kagoshima. 
1. ways to kagoshima. 2. kago- 
shima. 3. volcano of sakuka- 
jima. 4. volcano of kaimon- 

DAKE. 

1. — Ways to Kagoshima. 

Kagoshima may be best reached 
by steamer (only Japanese food 
provided) either from Nagasaki or 
from Kobe, — time from the former 
port, 14 hrs. ; from the latter, 40 
hrs. The island and coast scenery 
on both routes is of great beauty, 
that from Kobe in particular afford- 
ing a first-rate opportunity for 
seeing the ever-lovely Inland Sea 
and the Bungo Channel. The ship 
enters Kagoshima Bay between 
Cape Tatsumi on the r., and the 
lofty cone of Kaimon-dake on the 
1., — the latter so perfect a likeness 
of the great volcano of Eastern 
Japan as to have gained for itself 
the alternative name of the Satsuma 
Fuji. Also on the 1. is seen the 
entrance to Yamagawa (Inn by 
Fukushima Sukeichi), a convenient 
little port of refuge in bad weather. 
Proceeding up the gulf, we have 
ahead the rugged shape of Sakura- 
jima, — not a young volcano like 
Kaimon, but worn with age, though 
a thin column of smoke still con- 
stantly issues from its summit. 
Further ahead, to the r., rises the 
mass of yet another volcanic range, 
Kirishima-yama, and soon we are 
off Kagoshima. The harbour is so 
deep as to cause inconvenience, — 
as much as 40 and even 80 fathoms. 
The steamers anchor close to the 
shore in 13 fathoms. 

Kagoshima may also be reached 
from Nagasaki by the itinerary 
given below, — the trip, which is 
picturesque and varied, occupying 
from four to five days according as 
wind and weather serve. An excel- 
lent jinrikisha road runs the whole 
way from Komenotsu to Kagoshima. 
The best halting-place on it is the 



Ways thither. History. Principal Sights. 



441 



town of Sendai, on the river of the 
same name (Inn, by Nagai Tokubei). 

NAGASAKI to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Mogi 2 — 5 

Oni-no-ike, in 
Amakusa (by 

_boat) 13 — 31J 

Otao 8 — 19 J 

Komenotsu (boat). 15 — 36-J 

Agune 4 22 11J 

Nishikata 3 15 8J 

Sendai (Mukoda) . 4 5 10 

Ichiku 4 6 lOJ 

KAGOSHIMA . . 8 32 21| 

Total 63 8 154J- 



Persons bound for Kagoshima 
from Kumamoto join this road 
either at Minamata or at Kome- 
notsu, the previous part of the 
journey being generally done by 



sea. 



2. — Kagoshima. 



Kagoshima (Inn, Okabe ; Euro- 
pean restaurant, Kakumei-kwan), 
capital of the prefecture of the 
same name, is the southernmost 
great city of Japan. Though less 
bustling nowadays than its north- 
ern rivals, the breadth and cleanli- 
ness of its streets, the purity of its 
air, and its proximity to so much 
beautiful scenery give it a claim 
to attention, even apart from the 
leading role which it has played in 
modern Japanese history. 

The seat for many ages of the Shimazu 
family, lords of Satsuma, Osumi, and part 
of Hyuga, and suzerains of Loochoo, 
Kagoshima was a centre of political ac- 
tivity between the year 1854, when the 
first treaty with the United States was 
concluded, and the revolution of 1868, 
which was in a great measure brought 
about by the energy and determination of 
the Satsuma men. On the 15th August, 
1863, Kagoshima was bombarded by a 
British squadron of seven ships under 
Admiral Kuper, and a large part of the 
town was burnt, in consequence of the 
refusal to give satisfaction for the murder 
in 1862 of Richardson, a British subject, 
who had been cut down near Yokohama, 
for getting in the way of the Prince of 
Satsuma' s train (comp. p. 86). Most of 
the forts were dismantled, in spite of a 
typhoon which raged throughout the day ; 



but the squadron also suffered consider- 
ably. The captain and commander of the 
flag-ship were killed on the bridge by 
a round shot, and the total loss iu killed 
and wounded was sixty-three. After 
the revolution, many of the Satsu- 
ma men became dissatisfied with the 
Europeanising policy of the Imperial Gov- 
ernment. Their discontent culminated 
in 1877, in a rebellion headed by Saigo 
Takamori (p. 63). This, which is known 
to history as " the Satsuma Rebellion," 
was suppressed after some eight or nine 
months warfare, when the town of Kago- 
shima again fell a prey to the flames. 
Saigo himself fought bravely on Shiro- 
yama, a hill behind the town, where the 
Daixnyo's castle formerly stood. Of this 
there now remains but a part of the wall, 
on which the bullet marks are still plain- 
ly visible. Thus ended the last serious 
attempt to oppose the development of the 
enlightened principles of government that 
have transformed the political condition 
of modern Japan. 

The cave in which Saigo com- 
mitted harakiri when he saw that 
all was lost, stands a short way 
behind the town, but less well re- 
pays a visit than the Cemetery, 
where he lies buried with many 
hundreds of his braves, and where a 
festival is celebrated in his honour 
on the 28th day of the 6th moon, 
old style. Fuktishdji, the burial- 
place of the princes of Satsuma, 
is close at hand ; and some little 
way off — for Kagoshima is a city of 
graves and memories of the past — 
is the Loyalist Cemetery on the sea- 
shore. Its neglected state contrasts 
strangely with the tender care that 
is taken of the rebel graves. It 
must, however, be remembered that 
the rebel dead are here among their 
own kinsmen, whereas almost all 
the loyalists were strangers from, 
other provinces. 

The Jusamba at Kagoshima is an 
interesting institution, established 
in 1880 to furnish a livelihood to 
the female relatives of the samurai 
killed or ruined in the rebellion. 
Some six hundred women are em- 
ployed there in the manufacture 
of Satsuma-gasuri, a cotton fabric 
used for summer clothing, and of 
cigarettes. Notwithstanding its 
name, the Satsuma-gasuri origi- 
nated in the Loochoo Islands, and 



442 



Eo itte 64 . — Kagoshim a . 



the indigo used to dye the cotton 
is still imported thence. The ciga- 
rettes are made of the best tobacco 
which Japan produces, viz. that 
grown at Kokubu, at Tarumi, and 
at Izumi, —all in this prefecture. 

Kagoshima is the seat of the 
manufacture of the celebrated Sa- 
tsuma crackled faience, the best 
pieces of which were produced, to 
the order of the Daimyo, at Tanoura 
in the E. suburb of the town. 
Work is still carried on there in an 
inferior fashion for export ; but the 
place is worth the short walk thither 
chiefly for the sake of the beautiful 
view. More interesting to the cera- 
mic amateur is the vill. of Tsuboya 
(no inns, 6 ri, or 14§ m., distant by 
jinrikisha on the way to Ichiku), 
where things are done on a larger 
scale. The best manufactory is the 
Chinju-kivan. 

The inhabitants of this village are of 
Korean origin, being the descendants of 
a colony of potters brought hither at the 
end of the 17th century, when Hideyoshi 
had conquered their native country. The 
ruined ceramic art of Korea thus rose 
again, phoenix-like, on Japanese soil. 
The intelligent reader will not need to 
have pointed out to him how very recent 
the so-called "ancient Satsuma ware" 
really is— even in its earliest specimens, 
of which it is the rarest thing in the world 
to get a glimpse. 

The province of Satsuma is also 
famed for its camphor, its vegetable 
wax, and its horses, a large pro- 
portion of the latter being milk- 
white. 

There is fortnightly steam com- 
munication between Kagoshima and 
the large islands of Tanegashima 
and Yakushima to the south, which 
form a great contrast to each other 
in appearance, the former being 
long, low, and carefully cultivated, 
while the latter is a circular maze 
of lofty mountains rising to a height 
of over 6,000 ft. and covered with 
dense forests, wherein grow some of 
the finest cryptomerias in Japan, — 
the famous Yakusugi. The in- 
habitants of Yakushima are said to 
live in a state of almost idyllic in- 
nocence and security, no locks or 



bolts being needed in an island 
where thieving is unknown. 

Tanegashima was the first Japanese 
dependency on which Mendez Pinto (see 
p. 435) set foot; and as a knowledge of 
fire-arms was consequently first acquir- 
ed there from his followers, and spread 
thence to other parts of the country, a 
pistol is still sometimes called tanerishima 
in colloquial Japanese. 

3. — Sakura-jima. 

A visit to this island makes a 
pleasant day's excursion from Kago- 
shima, the passage thither being 
accomplished in native sailing boat. 
Cheap omnibus boats may be avail- 
ed of at certain hours. The island 
is celebrated for its volcano, its hot 
springs, its delicious oranges, and 
its giant daikon. Some of the latter 
weigh over 6Q lbs., the biggest being 
produced on the N. coast. The hot 
springs are on the south and east. 
Ari-mura (Inn, Yanagi-moto) is the 
favourite one, and may serve as a 
starting-point for the ascent of the 
volcano. Kurokami on the E. 
coast, which also boasts a hot spring, 
and Take on the N.W., are, it is 
true, nearer to the summit ; but they 
offer no accommodation. The 
top is reached by a track through 
long bamboo-grass and shrubs, the 
summit of the mountain being 
nearly 4,000 ft. high. The crater, 
whose walls are very steep and wild- 
looking, is 300 ft. or 400 ft. deep, 
and the view one of great magni- 
ficence. Immediately in front of 
the spectator, to the W., lies the 
town of Kagoshima ; on the S.S.W. 
rises Kaimon-dake, and in the 
opposite direction the two massive 
peaks of the Kirishima range, — 
Takachiho on the r., and Karaku- 
nimi-dake on the 1. Beyond, in 
the distance, are the mountains of 
Hyuga, whilst below, on every side, 
stretches the lovely bay of Kago- 
shima dotted with islets. 

4. — Kaimon-dake. 

This beautiful volcano, over 3,000 
ft. high, lies 15 ri 7 cho (37 m.) from 
Kagoshima, the trip there and back 



Route 65. — From Kagoshima to Kumamoto. 



443 



taking 3 days. Much of the dis- 
tance can be done in jinrikisha. 
There is rough accommodation at 
Kiire and at Ei (locally pronounced 
Ye), at the foot of the mountain. 



ROUTE 65. 

From Kagoshima to Kumamoto 
via Kachiki and the Eapids of 
the kuma-gawa. [volcano of 

KlRISHIMA.] 

Itinerary. 

KACHIKI to:— Ri. Cho. M. 

Yokogawa 5 31 14% 

Kurino 1 28 4J 

Yoshimatsu 2 20 6J 

Kakuto 2 29 6| 

HITOYOSHI . . . . 7 30 19£ 

Total 20 30 50$ 



Down the Kumagawa by boat 
from Hitoyoshi to Yatsushiro, taking 
5 hrs. to 10 hrs., according to the 
state of the river. From Yatsushiro 
to Kumamoto, 12 ri (29J m.) 

From Kagoshima to Hitoyoshi is 
a 2 days' journey, the first stage of 
which is If hr. by small steamer to 

Kachiki (Inn, Kawabata), 10 m. 
distant at the head of the gulf. In 
this neighbourhood are two gold 
mines belonging to the Prince of 
Satsuma. From Kachiki one can 
go the rest of the way by jinrikisha, 
but two men are necessary on ac- 
count of the hills. The first night 
should be spent at Kurino (Inn by 
Yamaguchi Zennosuke), as other- 
wise the second day becomes too 
long. Accommodation is also to be 
had at Yokogawa, Yoshida, and 
Kakuto ; but all the places between 
Kachiki and Hitoyoshi are small 
and poor. Of the scenery, which is 
mediocre, the best parts are' after 
leaving Kurino, where the road leads 



up the valley of the Sendai-gawa, 
also called Masaki-gawa in its upper 
course, and the park-like country 
on the way up the long pass (2J ri 
up and the _same down) dividing 
Kakuto from Okoba. Looking back- 
ward as one ascends, the view 
extends as far south as Sakura- 
jima. The volcano occasionally 
seen smoking away to the r. is 
Higashi Kirishima. 

[A slight alteration at starting 
will enable the traveller to in- 
clude this celebrated volcano 
in his route. Instead of quit- 
ting the steamer at Kachiki, 
he should continue on to Hama- 
no-ichi, which is the next stop- 
ping place on the shores of the 
Gulf of Kagoshima, and thence 
walk about 6^ ri, via Okubo, 
through interesting scenery to 

EirisMma Onsen (Inn, Ta- 
kenouchi), also called Taguchi, 
or Yashiro, the last of these 
names referring to a handsome 
Shinto temple close by. This 
vill., standing at an altitude of 
1,500 ft., is the best starting 
point for the ascent of 

Higashi Kirishima. 

This, the eastern summit of the 
Kirishima range, also called Taka- 
cJiilio-dake, is celebrated in Japanese 
mythology as the peak on which the 
god Ninigi, grandson of the Sun- 
Goddess Amaterasu, alighted when 
he came down from Heaven to pave 
the way for the conquest of Japan. 
The celebrated "Heavenly Sword" 
on the summit of Takachiho is con- 
sidered to be a relic of this divinity. 

The western and higher, but less 
striking peak, JSTi§M Kirishima f has 
the alternative name of Kara-kuni- 
mi-duke, from the idea that it affords 
a view of China or Corea (Kara). The 
last eruption of Higashi Kirishima 
took place in July, 1891. 

On leaving the temple, the 
path turns to the 1. through 
the wood, and in 40 min. 
reaches the upper edge of the 
forest at an altitude of about 
2,250 ft. From this point the 
peak is seen straight ahead, and 
the ascent becomes less steep. 



144 



Route 65. — From Kagoshima to Kumamoto. 



Higher up, the way leads over 
scoriee and ashes to the N.W. 
side of the edge of the crater, 
which is about 1,500 ft. in dia- 
meter, and perhaps 300 ft. deep. 
At the bottom is a small lake, 
from which dense clouds of 
steam mingled with sulphur 
fumes come rolling up with a 
loud roar. The outlines of the 
crater lip are strongly indented. 
The actual summit of the moun- 
tain (5,530 ft.) lies further on, 
and is marked by a large pile of 
stones. The " Heavenly Sword " 
already referred to, the material 
of which is bronze, the shape 
antique, and the length about 
4 -J ft., is fixed in the ground hilt 
upwards. The view from the 
summit is very extensive, being 
similar to that from Kara- 
kunimi-dake described further 
on, but more open towards the 
E. The large lake far below on 
the E. side of the mountain is 
called Mi-ike. The distance 
from base to summit is locally 
estimated at 2^ ri. 

While the ascent of Taka- 
chiho is being made, the bag- 
gage should be sent round to 
Enoyu (Inn, Yasuda-ya), a long, 
straggling vill. consisting chiefly 
of inns and bath-houses for the 
use of those who come to take 
the mineral waters. One might 
also stay at a small vill. 8 did 
nearer to Kirishima. 

Karakunimi-dake may be 
ascended from here, the dis- 
tance being locally estimated 
(under-estimated?) at 2^ ri. 
Another plan, feasible only if an 
extremely early start be made 
from Kirishima Onsen, and all 
circumstances be favourable, is 
to do both mountains the same 
day, first Takachiho and then 
Karakunimi-dake, descending 
to Yokogawa, whither the bag- 
gage must be sent on ahead. 
Magnificent views of Sakura- 
jima and other mountains are 
obtained on the way up. A 



good hour's climb from Enoyu 
brings one to the edge of a cir- 
cular crater, not steaming and 
sulphurous like that of Taka- 
chiho, but calm and clear, and 
holding a beautiful lake of 
emerald green, from whose 
margin rises a belt of fir-trees 
that clothe the sides of the pre- 
cipitous inner wall to its highest 
edge. This lake, called Onami- 
ike, is about 1 ri in circum- 
ference, while the height of the 
lowest part of the crater lip is 
4,680 ft. The way to the sum- 
mit of the mountain leads 
through a dense undergrowth 
of bamboo grass and small 
trees, before issuing out upon 
soft turf. The grand view in- 
cludes: — to the S.E., the large 
crater of Shimo-Oitake,then the 
summit of Oitake, and beyond, 
but towering far above them, 
the smoking crater and sharp 
peak of Takachiho ; to the S., 
Shiraka-dake, Sakura-jirna in 
the Bay of Kagoshima, and far 
away on the Pacific shore, Kai- 
mon-dake. Onami-ike lies at 
the spectator's feet ; and on the 
N.W., at a much lower eleva- 
tion, is Shiratori-san, with two 
of its three lakes distinctly 
visible. The names of these 
lakes are Murasaki, Byakushi, 
and Doku-Kwannon. The top of 
Karakunimi-dake, 6,050 ft., 
forms the highest point of an 
extinct crater, at the bottom of 
which lies a mass of slimy moss 
anci weeds, as if a lake had just 
dried up. This summit is 
marked by a large cairn sur- 
mounted by an iron trident. 
Looking beyond Shiratori-san, 
a striking and extensive view is 
presented of the mountains of 
central Kyushu, including Aso- 
san and Sobo-san. 

The way down leads through 
the district of Makizono to Ya- 
manojo, one of the very numer- 
ous mineral bath-places in 
which this volcanic neighbour- 



Route 66. — Loochoo. 



445 



hood abounds. The main road 
is joined between Enoyu and 
Yokogowa.] 

Hitoyoshi (Inn, Tokura-ya, close 
to the boat-place in Kokonoka- 
machi), a town occupying much 
space on both banks of the Kurna- 
gawa, was formerly the seat of the 
Sagara family, and is the starting- 
point for the descent of the cele- 
brated Rapids of the Kumagawa. 
The innkeeper will arrange for a 
boat. The price of a private boat, 
in 1893, was $2.50 with two men, 
a seat in an omnibus boat which 
holds twelve people being 25 cents ; 
but the latter is not recommended. 

The Rapids begin immediately 
below Hitoyoshi, and succeed each 
other at frequent intervals during 
the 40 miles thence to the sea ; 
but the best occur during the first 25 
miles. The scenery is very pleasant 
the whole way, high hills on either 
hand hemming in the stream which 
turns and twists in a surprising 
manner. Surprising, too, is the 
prosperity of this remote district, — 
cultivation in every available nook, 
and villages innumerable, whose 
solid two-storied buildings testify to 
the modest wealth of this happy and 
self-sufficing valley, where the forests 
afford game, the water immense 
quantities of trout (ayu), and the 
lower slopes of the hills all those 
forms of vegetable produce which 
go to make up a good Japanese diet. 
About half-way down is a grand 
cave, called Konose no Iiva-do, 
situated on the r. bank two or three 
min. walk from the river. Its dimen- 
sions have been estimated as follows : 
—length 250 ft., height 250 ft., 
breadth 200 ft. As the walls are 
formed of crystalline limestone, the 
water that exudes through them re- 
deposits the lime in the form of 
stalactites. The river issues into the 
plain at the vill. of Furuta, about 1 
ri above Yatsushiro. From here 
onwards, the whole r. bank is 
artificially constructed and planted 
with pines and cherry-trees. 



This embankment, which also serves as 
a road, is one of the great works be- 
queathed to posterity by Kato Kiyomasa, 
who also diverted a portion of the waters 
of the river to the r. of the embankment, 
in order to fertilise a vast extent of rice- 
bearing land. 

Yatsushiro {Inn, *Obiya) is a 
large town noted for its faience, the 
manufacture of which, like that of 
Satsuma, is traceable to Korean 
potters. 

Capt. Brinkley, R.A., writes of it as fol- 
lows : — " It is the only Japanese ware in 
which the characteristics of a Korean 
original are unmistakably preserved. Its 
diaphanous, pearl-grey glaze, uniform, 
lustrous, and finely crackled, overlying 
encaustic decoration in white slip, the 
fineness of its warm reddish pate, and the 
general excellence of its technique, have 
always commanded admiration. It is 
produced now in considerable quantities, 
but the modern ware falls far short of 
its predecessor." 

[Persons bound to Nagasaki can 
reach that port from Yatsu- 
shiro by boat to Misumi whence 
steamer ; see also p. 420.] 

A good flat jinrikisha road leads 
hence through the country towns of 
Miyabaru, Ogawa, Matsubashi (Inn, 
Katashio-ya), and Udo to 

Kumauioto (see p. 427). 



ROUTE 66. 

Loochoo. 

The Loochoo Islands, which are 
inhabited by a race closely allied to 
the Japanese, and which now form 
an integral part of the Japanese 
Empire, are connected with the 
outer world hj three lines of steam- 
ers from Kagoshima. The best are 
those of the Nippon Tusen Kwaisha, 
which sail every 18 days. They start 
from Kobe and take 2 days to Kago- 
shima, whence 1 day to Amami- 
Oshima, and 1 day more to Great 
Loochoo (Okinawa). Including 
stoppages, the voyage occupies al- 
together 6 days. The boat generally 
remains a couple of days at Nafa 
before returning the way she came. 



446 Route 66. — Nafa, Shuri, Futemma. Manufactures. 



Communication with the outlying 
Mayiko-jima and Yaeyama groups 
is less frequent and regular. No 
European food is supplied on board 
the steamers. 

The royal family of Looclioo derived its 
origin from the semi-mythical Japanese 
hero Tametomo (see p. 138), who is said 
to have allied himself with the daughter 
of a native chieftain, and to have over- 
thrown the previously ruling house. In 
the 15th century the Ming dynasty of 
China laid claims to the archipelago, and 
at the beginning of the 17th century it 
was conquered by the Japanese under the 
Prince of Satsuma, who permanently an- 
nexed Amami-Oshima to his feudal do- 
mains, but left Great Loochoo to a semi- 
independence. The Loochooans continued 
to pay tribute both to China and to Japan 
till the year 1879, when the king was 
brought captive to Tokyo, and the govern- 
ment re-organised as a Japanese prefec- 
ture under the name of Okinawa Ken. The 
name Loochoo is pronounced Byuhyu by 
the Japanese. To the double allegiance 
so long acknowledged by this little island 
realm, may be traced the mixture of 
Japanese and Chinese peculiarities in the 
manners and customs of its inhabitants. 
The language, though allied to Japanese, 
is sufficiently distinct from it to render 
natives of the two countries mutually 
unintelligible. Japanese, however, is the 
lingua franca of the ports. 

There is a decent 7?m_(Ikebata) at 
Naze* the little port of Oshima, and 
two (Ikebata and Asada) at Nafa, 
the chief port of the island of Oki- 
nawa, and the most flourishing and 
interesting place in the whole archi- 
pelago. Here it is the fashion to 
supplement the Japanese menu by 
beef and pork. Nowhere else in the 
islands can even Japanese food be 
counted on, as the Loochooans sub- 
sist almost exclusively on sweet 
potatoes and on a kind of sago obtain- 
ed from the pith of the Cycas re- 
voluta, a small tree resembling the 
sago-palm, which grows in immense 
quantities all over the archipelago. 

As there are scarcely any roads in 
the islands, most journeys have to 
be accomplished either in palan- 
quin or on the backs of the diminu- 
tive but hardy Loochooan ponies. 
There is, however, an excellent jin- 
rikisha road of 1 ri 11 did (3J m.) 
from Nafa to Shuri, the capital of 
the former Loochooan kings, whose 



castle, now held by a Japanese 
garrison, occupies a grand position 
on the top of the highest of those 
many coral crags that form so 
striking a feature of the land- 
scape throughout Southern Okina- 
wa. Winter is the best season for 
visiting Loochoo, the thermometer 
then ranging from 55° to 60° Fahren- 
heit, whereas in summer it stands 
at and over 90° both day and night. 
The climate is healthy. 

The traveller with a couple of 
days to spend while his steamer lies 
loading sugar or other island pro- 
duce, cannot do better than devote 
one of them to seeing Nafa and 
Shuri (special permit from Prefec- 
ture necessary for interior of Castle, 
but scarcely worth the trouble), and 
the second to an expedition on 
horseback to a place called Fu- 
temina, 4 or 5 ri distant, where 
there is a cave with stalactites 
containing a shrine dedicated to the 
goddess Kwannon. The innkeeper 
will borrow foreign saddles for the 
occasion. One can thus gain a fairly 
good idea of scenery which is at 
once pretty and original. — The large, 
white, horseshoe-shaped structures 
that lie scattered broadcast over 
the face of the land are family 
vaults, wherein the bones of many 
generations are deposited in urns 
after having been picked and washed. 

As there is nothing to see in 
Amami-Oshima, a stay at Naze is 
not recommended. The outlying 
islands (Sakishima) of the Loochoo- 
an archipelago, stretching in the 
direction of Formosa, are similarly 
uninteresting, except to the speci- 
alist ; and even a brief visit to the 
Yaeyama group (Ishigaki-jima and 
Iriomote) is perilous, on account 
of the dreadful malaria which 
prevails there at all times of year. 

The Loochoo Islands produce 
some special fabrics which are much 
esteemed by the Japanese. These 
are the Ryukyu-tsumugi (silk), the 
Satsuma- gasuri (cotton), the Basho- 
fu or Aka-baslio made of the fibre 
of a tree closely allied to the banana, 



Route 67. — The Goto Islands, Tsushima, Fusan, etc. 447 



and especially the Hoso-jofu (hemp). 
This latter comes from Miyako- 
jima, where the weaving and dyeing 
of a single piece (it-tan,=9i yds.) 
occupies as long as six months. Con- 
sequently only small quantities are 
manufactured, and prices are high, 
—from $10 to $30 a piece. The 
Satsuma-gasziri, as its name serves 
to indicate, is often erroneously 
mistaken for a specialty of the pro- 
vince of Satsuma, whereas the stuff 
there fabricated is but an imitation 
of a Loochooan original (see p. 441). 



ROUTE 67. 

The Goto Islands and Tsushima. 
Fusan, Gensan and Vladivo- 

STOCK. 

A bi-monthly steamer service is 
maintained by the Nippon Yusen 
Kivaisha to Vladivostock, affording 
travellers an opportunity of visiting 
the Goto Islands, Tsushima, and 
the Japanese settlement of Fusan 
in Korea. The round trip from 
Kobe to Vladivostock occupies 24 
days ; from Nagasaki, 17 days. 
Those wishing to proceed to Vla- 
divostock must obtain passports 
from their consul, such passports 
to be vised by the Russian consul. 
This latter formality is essential. 
No passports for Korea are issued 
but of the country itself. They 
must be secured by the traveller on 
arrival, through the consulate of his 
nationality. Previous application 
by letter might, however, expedite 
matters. Travellers whose time is 
limited can go from Nagasaki to 
Fusan, where a stay of 2 days may 
be employed in shooting (during the 
season, which is about the same as 
in Japan), fishing, and visiting the 
old Korean city, which is within 
easy reach of the Japanese settle- 
ment, and then returning to Naga- 
saki direct. 



Fnkne (Inn, Shiozuka-ya), capi- 
tal of the island of the same name, 
the largest of the Goto group, is about 
50 m. distant from Nagasaki. The 
steamer stays here for a few hours, 
affording time to see the remains of 
the old Daimyo's castle and the 
garden, which must have been once 
very beautiful. Near the town 
are some striking dome-shaped hills 
— extinct volcanoes now cultivated 
from base to summit, their craters 
filled with shrubs and rank vegeta- 
tion. Deer and other game abound 
on this and the other islands of the 
group ; trout also are plentiful in 
the mountain streams* 

Through the untiring efforts of the 
Roman Catholic missionaries, working in 
a field well-sown by their predecessors in 
the 16th and 17fch centuries, the popula- 
tion of the Goto Islands consists largely 
of Christians. 

Iziigflhara (Inn, Yoshida-ya), the 
capital of Tsushima, about 100 m. 
distant from Fukue, is charmingly 
situated in a valley surrounded by 
wooded hills, some of which are 
about 1,200 feet high. Tsushima 
has an area of 262 sq. miles, and is 
equidistant from the Japanese 
island of Iki and from Korea, being 
48 m. from each. A deep sound 
divides it into two unequal parts. 
The southern portion is moun- 
tainous (2,100 ft. high), the northern 
much lower. The lovely scenery of 
Tsushima audits bracing air should 
make this spot a desirable resort for 
invalids. 

Tsushima means " the island of the 
port," a name probably bestowed from the 
fact of this place, with its fine harbours, 
having been, from time immemorial, the 
midway halting-place for junks plying 1 
between Japan and the mainland of Asia. 
Tsushima is mentioned in the Kojiki as 
one of the Eight Great Islands of Japan, 
to which Izanagi and Izanami gave birth, 
at the beginning of all things. In later 
days, the Daimyos of Tsushima served 
as intermediaries in all international 
relations between Japan and Korea. 
The Russians endeavoured to obtain a 
footing in Tsushima in 1861, but were 
soon obliged to abandon the attempt ; and 
Tsushima remains, now as ever, part and 
parcel of the Japanese dominions, in- 
habited by a Japanese-speaking popula- 
tion. 



448 Route 67. — The Goto Islands, Tsushima, Fusan, etc. 



The principal product of the is- 
land is dried cuttle-fish (ika), which 
is held in high esteem by the 
Japanese. It may be interestiug to 
note that the variety of pheasant 
generally found on the island of 
Tsushima is the ringed pheasant of 
China, not the common Japanese 
green pheasant. 

Quitting Tsushima, a run of 65 
m. lands the traveller in 

Fusan, called Fusan by the 
Koreans (Inn, Oike in the Japanese 
settlement, with European food), 
near the south-eastern tip of the 
Korean peninsula. The change 
which this short distance effects in 
everything that meets the eye is 
very marked. The beautifully wood- 
ed hills and ravines of Tsushima are 
replaced by endless hills covered 
with coarse grass and dwarf pines, 
relieved here and there by blear 
outcrops of bare rock. The dirty 
white dress of the Koreans, their 
squalid dwellings, their rude man- 
ners and customs, all afford a strik- 
ing contrast to the charming land 
we have left behind. The harbour 
of Fusan, however, is pretty, lying 
under the shelter of a large island 
named by the early navigators 
"Deer Island," on which deer and 
pheasants still exist. The climate, 
too, is salubrious. The Japanese 
Settlement of Fusan (pop. 5,000) 
differs but little from an ordinary 
Japanese town ; it contains some 
creditable buildings, and is well- 
situated for purposes of trade. 



The steamers continue on up 
the Korean and Siberian coast, 
as indicated on the preceding 
page, a run of about 300 miles 
N. from Fusan taking one to the 
port of 

Gen sail, Yuensan, or W&iisan, as 
it is called by the Japanese, 
Chinese, and Koreans respectively. 
It is situated on the S. side of a fine 
bay, the N. portion of which is 
known to Europeans as Port Laza- 
reff. The surrounding country re- 
sembles that around Fusan, but is 
more open Dear the sea, and the 
valleys are better cultivated. A 
high range of mountains extends 
from Gensan, running parallel to 
the coast in a southerly direction 
for about 50 miles. In the bold 
and rugged fastnesses of these 
mountains, the tiger, leopard, bear, 
and wild-cat roam at will, the tiger 
being no uncommon visitor in 
Gensan itself. The Inn in the 
Japanese Settlement may be recom- 
mended. 

A further run of 320 miles to the 
N.E. takes the steamer to 

Yladivostock (hotel accommo- 
dation indifferent). The harbour is 
very pretty, as also is the town 
when seen from the water, and in- 
deed the whole neighbouring coast 
with its undulating wooded hills. 
The air is fresh even in the height 
of summer, and mosquitoes are un- 
known. Game is plentiful in the 
season. 



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SECTION VII. 
NORTHERN JAPAN 

(koutes 68 — ^6. 



Route 68. — The Northern Railway. 



451 



ROUTE 68. 

The Nokthern Railway. 

from t5kyo to aomori by rail, 
from fukushima to yonezawa by 
the kuriko kaido. from ichino 
seki to shiogama down the kita- 
kami-gawa. ascent of ganju-san. 






Names 
of 

Stations. 



10 
12f 

16f 

22| 

28| 
33| 
38 

48 

52| 
57 



72! 
76f 
83f 

90 

9r 

102f 

107! 
113f 
123 
130 

137! 

146 

152 
157f 

166 

174! 

182! 

187* 

195| 

200 

204| 



TOKYO (Ueno) 
Oji. 



Akabane Jet. 



Warabi. 
Urawa. 

Omiya Jet. 

Hasuda. 
Kuki. 
Kurizuka. 
Koga. 



Oyama 

Koganei. 
Ishibashi. 

UTSUNOMIYA 

Furuta. 

Nagakubo. 

Yaita. 

Mshi Nasuno .. 

Kuroiso. 

Kurotawara. 

Toyohara. 

SHIRAKAWA 

Yabuki. 

Sukagawa. 

Koriyama 

Motomiya 

Nihonmatsu. 
Matsukawa. 

FUKUSHIMA.. 

Kori. 

Kosugo. 

Shiraishi. 

Okawara. 

Tsukinoki. 

Iwanuma. 



Remarks. 



/Change trains 



in coming S 
for Shimba- 
shi (Tokyo) 
and Yoko- 
hama, 



'For Takasaki 
and Karui- 
b zawa. 



Change trains 
forMito and 
for Ryomo 
Railway. 

Change trains 
for Nikko. 



J Alight for 
\ Shiobara. 



(Alight for 
( Bandai-san, 



J Road to Yone- 
( zawa. 



208| 


Masuda. . 


/Branch to 


215! 


SENDAI 


J Shiogama 
| for Matsu- 








l shima. 


220| 


Iwakiri. 




230 


Matsushima. 




236! 


Kashiwadai. 




242| 


Kogota. 




249f 


Semine. 




259! 


Ishikoshi. 




264! 


Hanaizumi. 




272 


ICHINOSEKI. 




281! 


Maezawa. 




287! 


Mizusawa. 




298! 


Kurosawajiri 


Road to Akita. 


306 


Hanamaki. 




313 


Ishidoriya. 




316i 


Hizume. 




328 


MORIOKA 


Road to Akita. 


340| 


Koma. 




347^ 


Numakunai. 




355! 


Nakayama. 




364f 


Koznya. 




367! 


Ichinohe. 




371! 


Fukuoka. 




383 


Sannohe. 




395! 


Shiriuchi 


( Branch to Ha- 
i chinohe. 


415! 


Numasaki. 




419! 


Otogu. 




428! 


Noheji. 




439 


Kominato. 




445 


Asamushi. 




448| 


Nouchi. 




454f 


AOMORI. 





The Northern Bailwayjollows the 
old highway called the Oshu Kaiclo 
pretty closely, except between Sendai 
and Ichinoseki, and again in the 
extreme N. between Sannohe and 
Noheji, in both of which sections it 
bends_ away E. to avoid the hills. 
The Oshu Kaido is well-maintained 
throughout its length of 191 ri from 
Tokyo to Aomori, and remains one 
of the finest roads in the empire. 
The pines, crytomerias, and other 
conifers lining it are frequently 
seen from the carriage windows; 
but not until the train reaches 
Utsunomiya — the junction for 
Nikko — with the glorious range of 
mountains rising in the back- 
ground, can this railway route be 
said to offer much in the way of 
natural beauty. The best places at 
which to break the journey are Fu- 
kushima, Sendai, and Morioka. 

A short distance beyond Kuri- 
zuka, the Tonegawa is crossed on 
a fine iron bridge. 



452 



Route 68. — The Northern Railway. 



This river, which waters the plain of 
Tokyo, rises on Monju-san in the pro- 
vince of Kotsuke, and after a course of 
170 m. , empties itself into the Pacific at 
Choshi, while a second arm falls into 
Tokyo Bay. Lagoons line its lower 
course, and from both mouths sandbanks 
stretch out far into the sea. The Daiya- 
gawa, which flows through Nikko, is one 
of its affluents. Owing to the volume of the 
river and the flatness of the surrounding 
country, inundations with disastrous re- 
sults are frequent. The name Tone seems 
to be a relic of the time when the Ainos 
wandered over Eastern Japan, before the 
occupation of the country by the Japa- 
nese. It is a corruption of the Aino word 
tanne, "long," this river having natural- 
ly been called the Long River, in con- 
tradistinction to the shorter ones of the 
same district. 

Koga (Inn, Ota-ya) was formerly 
the residence of a Daimyo. River 
steamers run from here to Tokyo 
daily, making the journey in about 
14 hrs. (see p. 88). Beyond this 
place many mountains come in view, 
— the twin peaks of Tsukuba on the 
r. (see p. 183), and the Ashikaga 
hills to the 1., with the giants of 
Nikko looming in the distance 
ahead. 

Oyama (Inn, Kado-ya) is a 
prosperous town, where the Mito 
Railway branches off r., and the 
Ryomo Railway to Maebashi 1. 
through a rich silk district. 

Utsunoniiya (Inn, *Shiroki-ya, 
with branch at station), formerly 
the castle-town of a Daimyo, is now 
the capital of the prefecture of 
Tochigi. This place suffered severely 
during the civil war of 1868. It 
takes its name from the large 
Shinto temple (miya) of Futa-ara- 
yama no Jinja, or Nikko Daimyd- 
jin, dedicated to the memory of a 
son of the Emperor Sujin. 

This prince, who belongs to the legen- 
dary period of Japanese history, is said to 
liave been appointed ruler of Eastern 
Japan, and to have founded several 
families of local chiefs. 

Leaving Utsunomiya, the line 
soon crosses two branches of the 
Kinugawa, 

Kinu is a corruption of Kenu, lit. 
" hairy moor," an ancient name of the 
tract of country now subdivided into 
the provinces of Kotsuke and Shimotsuke. 



and passes through park-like scenery 
until it enters the wide plain of 
Nasu, in the midst of which stands 

Nishi Nasuno (Inn, Kawashima- 
ya), the station for the mineral 
springs of Shiobara (see p. 194). 
A fine view is here obtained of the 
Nasuno-yama range. The line con- 
tinues to ascend by more or less 
steep gradients, until an elevation of 
1,160 ft. is reached at 

Sliirakawa (Inn, Yanagi-ya), a 
flourishing little town, and formerly 
the seat of a Daimyo named Abe. 
The train passes within sight of the 
ramparts of the old castle. The 
town is situated on the upper 
waters of the Abukuma-gawa, a fine 
river which rises on Asahi-dake, 
and flowing N., discharges into the 
Bay of Sendai, — length, 125 m. from 
its source. One of the most stub- 
born contests in the war of the 
Restoration took place around here 
in 1868. A road branches off from 
Shirakawa to Wakamatsu (see p* 
199), ll^ri distant. 

Sokagawa (Inn, Tora-ya) lies one 
m. from its station. 

Iioriyama (Inn, Kawasaki-ya) is 
a prosperous town, in whose vici- 
nity silkworm breeding and silk 
manufacture are extensively carried 
on. A tramway from the station 
leads to Mihartc, a busy town, 8 m* 
distant. A road goes from this 
place to Bandai-san ; but that from 

Motoiiiiya (Inns, Sakai-ya at sta- 
tion, Mito-ya), the station beyond, is 
to be preferred (see Route 19). 

Nihoiunatsu (Inn, Yamada-ya)is 
a picturesquely situated town, built 
on the sides of an exceedingly steep 
hill, and extending 1 ri in length. It 
is one of the principal silk-producing 
localities in the province. The valley 
of the Abukuma-gawa opens out 
after 

Matsiikawa is passed, and the 
broad sweep of country to the 1. is 
very fine. 

Fukushima (Bins, * Matsuba- 
kwan ; Andohi, near station) is 
the capital of the prefecture of 
the same name, and was formerly 



Fukushima. Azuma-yama. Kuriho Kaido. 



453 



the castle-town of the Itakura 
family. It is a good place at which 
to break the journey northwards. 
Part of the castle was burnt during 
the civil war of 1868. Fukushima 
is an important centre of the trade 
in raw silk and silkworms' eggs, and 
during the season forms the head- 
quarters of the Tokyo silk-buyers. 
A number of well -constructed 
buildings in European style gives 
the town an unusual air of prosper- 
ity. The pine-clad hill called 
Shinobu-yama, a prominent feature 
in the landscape, well deserves a 
visit for the fine view of the wide 
mountain-girt plain, which is obtain- 
ed from the small shrine at the top. 
The inhabitants recommend a visit 
(in jmrikisha or on foot) to a small 
temple of the Tendai sect of Bud- 
dhists, known as Shinobu Mojizuri 
Kiuannon, about 1-| ri from the 
town. Within a pagoda here are en- 
shrined the Go-chi Nyorai, or Five 
Personifications of Wisdom. The 
Mojizuri-ishi or "letter rubbing- 
stone," is a huge block of granite 
to which frequent allusion is found 
in Japanese poetry. Neither the 
origin nor the appropriateness of 
the name of the stone can be veri- 
fied, and probably few foreigners will 
discover in the place that interest 
which Japanese literary convention 
assigns to it. 

To the W. of Fukushima lies 
Azuma-yama (6,365 ft.), a volcano 
long considered extinct, but which 
was the scene of several erup- 
tions in the year 1893. The way 
there passes through Niioasaka (2 ri 
by jmrikisha) and Takayu (2-^ ri on 
foot), where sleep at inn with sul- 
phur spring; thence 3 hrs. walk to 
the summit of the mountain. 

The popular mineral baths of 
Iizaka, 2 ri 10 cho to the N. of Fu- 
kushima, can be easily reached by 
jmrikisha in 1 hour. The Kwasui- 
kwan Inn, which commands a fine 
view of the mountains, is recom- 
mended. There are forty other 
inns; but to concur with the native 
guide-book in its genial praise of all 



would be too much. Fair fishing 
may be had in the Surikami-gawa 
from June to October. 

Local tradition avers that the discoverer 
of these springs is unknown, but that 
Yamato-dake bathed in one of them, and 
the disease he suffered from "disappear- 
ed like snow in sunshine." 

The place is noted for its mild 
and steady temperature. 

[Fukushima to Yonezawa by 
the kukeko kaido. 

Itinerary. 

FUKUSHIMA to :— Ri. Cho. M. 

Sekiba 2 20 6£ 

Odaki 2 7 5J 

Ohira 2 12 5J 

Kariyasu 2 8 5£ 

YONEZAWA .... 3 3 7| 

Total 12 14 30i 



This road, known as the 
Kuriko Kaido, from a long 
tunnel through the mountain 
of that name, leads over a diffi- 
cult mountainous district, and 
is one of the finest pieces of 
engineering in the north. The 
traffic over the road is con- 
siderable, railway communica- 
tion to Fukushima having 
brought Yonezawa so much 
nearer to the chief markets. 
Basha are available ; but jin- 
rikishas are much to be pre- 
ferred, the journey then taking 
from 8 to 10 hrs. A good level 
road runs across the plain to 
Sekiba, a poor village. Just 
before entering the first tunnel, 
1 ri 10 cho from Sekiba, the 
road has been cut out of the 
sheer cliff, while the stream, a 
tributary of the Abukuma, 
rushes through a deep gorge 
hundreds of feet below. A short 
distance beyond, a bridge 
spans the stream, and the road 
from this point onward for 
about a mile is very picturesque. 
Odaki is a posting-station with 
but poor accommodation, — 



454 



Route 68. — The Northern Railway. 



a remark applicable to every 
halting ^place on the way. 
From Odaki to Futatsu-goya, 
where, as the name implies, 
there are two resting-houses, 
is a steady ascent, although 
nowhere can the gradient on 
the Fukushima side be said 
to be very great. A second 
tunnel of 3 did 14 hen is 
here encountered. A moderate 
descent then takes one to 
Ohira, whence the road again 
ascends for 12 did until 
reaching its highest level, 
about 3,000 ft., where Kuriko- 
yama is pierced by a tunnel 8 
did 25 hen (over i mile) in 
length. The sides of the moun- 
tains are densely wooded, the 
oak being specially noticeable ; 
water also is plentiful. Pine 
torches have to be purchased 
at the entrance of the tunnel, 
the passage through which is 
very wet and rough. At in- 
tervals, the tunnel is widened 
so as to admit of vehicles 
passing each other freely. 
The telegraph line is carried 
through the tunnel by means 
of a cable enclosed in tubing. 
A large stone tablet at the 
entrance on the Yonezawa 
side records the history of 
the undertaking. It states 
that the tunnelling was com- 
menced in December, 1876, and 
finished in October, 1880, at a 
cost of $126,900, of which sum 
the Government made a grant 
of 131,900, the remainder being 
subscribed by the people of the 
province. The first part of the 
descent from the long tunnel 
is steeper than that on the 
Fukushima side ; but after 
passing Kariyasu the fertile 
plain is reached, and this last 
stage of the journey to Yone- 
zawa can be accomplished in 
2J hrs. 

Yonezawa (Inns, Akane-ya, 
Takahashi), formerly the castle- 
town of the great Uesugi family, 



stands near the S.E. ex- 
tremity of a rich and fertile 
plain, surrounded by lofty 
mountains and watered by the 
Matsukawa and several tribu- 
tary streams that form tha 
upper waters of the Mogami- 
gawa. The town itself, though 
large, has not a striking ap- 
pearance, and contrasts un- 
favourably with its own suburbs 
whose detached houses are 
surrounded by pretty gardens. 
The houses are thatched, and 
the streets mostly narrow, 
rough, and neglected. 

Unlike their brethren in other 
parts of Japan, the old samurai here 
form the wealthiest portion of the 
population, retaining in their hands 
the bulk of the silk trade carried on 
in the neighbourhood. This state of 
affairs is said to arise from the fact 
that when Uesugi was deprived, as a 
punishment, of a large part of his 
fief by the government of the day, 
his retainers had to eke out their 
livelihood by their own industry, 
and the habits thus inculcated stood 
them in good stead when the revolu- 
tion of 1868 swept over the land, 
depriving them of their class privi- 
leges. 

The castle has been razed to 
the ground ; but the temple 
dedicated to Uesugi Kenshin, 
an ancestor of the family and 
a mighty warrior of the 16th 
century, still remains, and an 
annual festival is held there 
on the 13th day of the 3rd 
moon, old style. Close by 
stand the imposing local go- 
vernment offices.] 

From Itaori or Kori (Inn, Nishi- 
ya), the silver mines at Handa 
may be reached in 1 hr. Here the 
hills close in on the 1., the line 
climbing up their lower slopes. The 
view r. of the plain, and of the coast 
range that separates it from the 
Pacific Ocean, is very striking. 
Though 

Shiraishi (Inn by Akojima) it- 
self is a dull place, the traveller with 
a few hours to spare could not 
do better than take a jinrikisha 



Sendai. 



455 



to the hot springs of Obara (Inn by 
Shikama), up the wildly picturesque 
gorge of the Shiraishi-gawa. One 
hour further on, or 5 ri altogether 
from Shiraishi, stand the Zaimoku- 
iwa, or Timber Rocks, so called 
from their stratified formation. 
This road continues for 14 ri more, 
via Yunohara, to the provincial 
capital of Yamagata. — Shiraishi is 
also the station for the hot springs 
of Aone (Inns, Sato, Tanno), a 
favourite resort of the Sendai people; 
distance, 6 ri along an excellent 
road. 

The railway follows the r. bank 
of the Shiraishi-gawa, and affords a 
constant change of scenery until 

Iwannma is reached, whence it 
proceeds to Sendai through level 
country. 

Sendai (Bins, Harikyii, Shimo 
Tamaki, Ando, Mutsu Hotel with 
Europ. restt.) , capital of the province 
of Rikuzen and of the prefecture of 
Miyagi, is situated on the 1. bank of 
the Hirose-gawa, and was formerly 
the castle-town of Date Mutsu-no- 
Kami, the greatest of the northern 
Daimyos. The castle, a fine na- 
tural stronghold lying on the r. 
bank of the river, was partially 
destroyed during the civil war of 
1868. It is used as quarters for 
the officers of the garrison, and 
is not open to the public. The 
grounds are now overgrown with 
long grass and weeds. Sendai is 
noted for its manufacture of orna- 
mental articles, such as trays, etc., 
made of fossil-wood (jindai-sugi), 
which is found in a hill near the 
town ; also for a kind of cloth call- 
ed shifu-ori, made of silk and paper 
and suitable for summer use. For- 
eign buildings are tolerably nume- 
rous, amongst the principal being 
the Government schools which 
stand on a large open space to the 
E. of the town. The small Public 
Garden commands a good view 
towards the castle and the mountain 
ranges beyond. Formerly a number 
of valuable old lacquer and other 
relics belonging to the ex-Prince of 



Sendai, as well as the presents 
given by the Pope to the mission 
sent to Rome in 1614 by Date Masa- 
mune (see p. 54), were preserved in 
the town ; but they have lately been 
dispersed to various parts of the 
empire. Some of these interesting 
relics are now to be seen in the 
Museum at Ueno in Tokyo (p. 107). 
The Convict Prison of Sendai is one 
of the largest in Japan, and admir- 
ably conducted. Outside Sendai, at 
Aramaki on the N., are a number 
of potteries where coarse pans and 
jars are made. 

Though ordinarily treated as a 
mere place of rest by the traveller 
en route to Matsushima or Yezo, 
a few hours may profitably be 
spent at Sendai in visiting the 
temple of Zuihoden, where repose 
the ashes of Date Masamune, 
and returning via Atago-san. The 
temple stands on Zuiho-san, a part 
of the old castle grounds, and is ap- 
proached by an avenue of lofty 
cedars. Just beyond the first torii is 
a fine large stone tablet, erected to 
the memory of over a hundred Sendai 
men who fell in the Satsuma Rebel- 
lion. The temple is then reached 
by a flight of steps. The sixteen- 
petalled chrysanthemum (a crest on 
the outer gate retained by special 
permission of the Mikado), and the 
fine bronze cistern close by, de- 
serve inspection. The haiden is of 
black lacquer with coloured cor- 
nices. The kara-mon gate has 
some good carvings of tigers and 
dragons ; but they are inferior to 
those on the Oku-no-in, where the 
projecting rafters take the shape 
of carvings of mythological mon- 
sters. Within is the tomb, having 
upon it a finely executed statue 
of Date Masamune. On each side 
of the Oku-no-in stand stone monu- 
ments to the memory of twenty 
faithful retainers who, when their 
lord died, sacrificed their own lives 
in order to follow him to the land of 
shades. The place is surrounded 
by lofty cryptomerias, and resem- 
bles, but on a much less magnificent 



456 



Route 68. — The Northern Railway. 



scale, the site of Ieyasu's tomb at 
Nikko. The monument close by, 
erected by Date Masamoto, records 
the loss of a thousand men of Sendai 
in the war of the Restoration. Two 
other temples of some local note 
stand close to Zuihoden on the 
opposite side of the road. 

A path leads down 1. through 
the valley, then up Atago-san, which 
is a ridge facing the town and 
commanding an exceptionally beau- 
tiful view of the surrounding coun- 
try. The river winds round the 
foot of the hill, the town spreads 
out in front embedded in a mass of 
foliage, the " seven hills " of Nana- 
tsu-mori stand in a row behind, 
while r. stretches a broken country 
consisting of uplands dotted with 
clumps of trees, and an open plain 
beyond extending to the sea. The 
summit of the sacred isle of Kinkwa- 
zan is also visible on clear days. 
A path descends to the river, 
which is crossed on a long bridge of 
planks. There are various other 
minor places of interest in Sendai 
and its immediate vicinity. 

Diverging considerably to the E., 
the railway route passes through a 
fertile stretch of country, with little 
to arrest the traveller's attention. 

MatsusMina ( Inn at station) takes 
its name from the well-known vill. 
on the shores of the Bay of Sendai, 
1 ri distant. For a description of the 
beauties of this celebrated spot, see 
Route 69. Between this station 
and the next, we pass r. a large 
mere called Shinai-nnma. From 

Bogota, omnibuses run to Waku- 
ya, H ri, and to Furukawa on the 
Oshu Kaido, 2 ri. 

[Wakuya is of some historical interest, 
as having been in the possession of 
Date Aki, who lost his life in the 
cause of Tsunamune, third Prince of 
Sendai under the Tokugawa Sho- 
guns, and whose story forms the 
subject of a popular drama entitled 
Sendai Hagi. Tadamune, the second 
prince, had an illegitimate son, 
generally known by his official 
title of Hyobu Shoyii, who, dis- 
contented with his lot and jealous 
of the great Sendai estates falling 



to another, secured the aid of Hara- 
da Kai, chief controller of the Prince 
of Sendai' s affairs in Yedo, in a plot 
to ruin Tsunamune. The young 
prince was then living in Yedo, and 
Hyobu' s object was tolead him into 
such a career of dissipation as would 
end in his fall. In this the plotters 
partially succeeded. Tsunamune re- 
turned to Sendai from the capital, 
taking the famous courtesan Takao 
with him as his mistress, an act in 
itself, if known to the Shogun, suffi- 
cient to cause his effacement from 
the roll of Daimyos. At this stage 
his faithful adherent Date Aki and 
others interposed, and on the plea of 
illness got the Shogun to consent to 
their lord's retirement and to the 
succession of his son Kamechiyo, 
a child but seven years old. Through 
the influence, however, of Sakai Uta- 
no-Kami, prime minister of the 
Shogun, whose daughter had mar- 
ried Hyobu' s son, Hyobu himself 
was appointed guardian of Kame- 
chiyo. Several attempts were made 
by both Hyobu and Harada to get 
rid of the young prince by poison, 
all of which failed through the de- 
votion of Aki's daughter, whom he 
had left as governess to the boy. 
Eventually, armed with ample proof 
against the conspirators, Aki laid 
the case before the Shogun at Yedo. 
Uta-no-Kami undertook to defend 
his son-in-law, while Itakura, an- 
other noted minister, espoused Aki's 
cause, and after a lengthy trial 
Hyobu and Harada were found 
guilty. But a petition for a new 
trial was granted, and it was in the 
course of this trial at the prime 
minister's residence, that Harada 
stole upon Aki and slew him on the 
spot. Baulked in a further at- 
tempt to murder Itakura also, he 
killed himself. This occurred in 
1671.] 

The saddle-shaped peak in the 
distance far to the 1. of the station of 

IsMkoslri is one of the many 
Japanese mountains called Koma- 
ga-take, or " Pony Peak." 

Iehinoseki, also called Iwai 
(Inn, Kame-ya), a town consisting 
chiefly of one long street lying in a 
fine valley on the banks of the Iwai- 
gawa, was formerly the seat of a 
Daimyo named Tamura. At Ichi- 
no-seki the railway strikes the 
valley of the Kitakami-gawa, which 
it follows up past Morioka. 

This important river rises at the vill. 
of Mido on the northern frontier of the 
province, and has a course of about 175 



Ichinoseki. Kozenji. Chusonji. 



457 



m. due S. to Kofunakoshi, where it 
divides into two brandies, one flowing S. 
into the Bay of Sendai at Ishinomaki, 
the other into the Pacific Ocean. It has 
numerous affluents, and affords ready- 
means of transport for the produce of 
the large extent of country drained by 
it. Rice, wheat, beaus, and hemp are 
generally cultivated in the district. 
Trout are plentiful in the rivers of this 
part of Japan. 

[From Kozenjf, about 2J m. 
from Ichinoseki by jinrikisha, 
there is a line of river steamers 
running daily to Is hinomaki and 
Shiogama(pip. 462-3). The steam- 
er starts at daylight, reaching 
Ishinomaki about noon. After 
a short stoppage, it ascends 
the river again to enter the 
Nobiru canal, and then pass- 
ing through the Matsushima 
archipelago, reaches Shiogama 
about 4 p.m. Delays, however, 
are frequent, owing to the 
numerous stoppages made en 
route to take in cargo. The 
river scenery is very pretty in 
places, but the steamers are 
small and uncomfortable. Sta- 
tions from which large square 
nets are dropped into the river 
by levers, are seen on the per- 
pendicular bluffs. The slate- 
quarries, for which Ishinomaki 
is noted, are passed on the 1. 
before reaching the town.] 

At a distance of 2% ri from 
Ichinoseki stands the far-famed 
monastery of Chusonji, in which 
many interesting relics of Yoshi- 
tsune and Benkei are preserved. 
Permission to inspect them can 
be obtained on application at the 
Local Government Office (Gun 
Yakusho) in Ichinoseki. The build- 
ings are closed as places of worship, 
being now simply retained as 
store-rooms ; but they are still in 
the care of the Buddhist priests, who 
will conduct visitors around. A fee 
should be offered to one of the 
priests on leaving, ostensibly for the 
maintenance of the buildings, which 
indeed sadly need repair. 

Chusonji was founded by Jikaku Daishi 
in the 9th century, and attained its 



greatest prosperity under the patron- 
age of Fujiwara Kiyohira in A.D. 1109. 
The buildings once numbered as many 
as forty, with residences for three hun- 
dred priests. 

Jinrikishas may be taken as far 
as the approach to Chusonji — a 
lengthy avenue of grand crypto- 
merias. No attempt should be 
made to go further except on foot ; 
it was incumbent in old days on 
the Mikado's envoy himself to 
alight here, even if he were merely 
passing by the sacred hill. A 
short distance up the avenue, a 
fine and extensive view is obtain- 
ed of the valley of the Kitakami- 
gawa and the mountains separating 
it from the sea. The principal 
buildings shown are the Jizo-do, 
Konjiki-do, Issaikyo-do, and Benzai- 
ten-do. All are plain wooden struc- 
tures, devoid of either colour or or- 
nament, except some carvings and 
flower-paintings on the Jizo-do, 
the first building met with on the 
1. of the avenue. It contains figures 
of Yoshitsune and Benkei, said to 
be their own handiwork. In the 
Issaikyd-do, are three complete sets 
of the sutras that form the canon 
of Buddhist scripture. But the 
most interesting is the Konjiki-do, 
once covered with a coating of gold 
that gave it the name of Hikaru-do, 
or Glittering Hall, by which it is 
still most commonly known ; but 
only faint traces of the gold are now 
discernible. In it repose the ashes 
of three redoubtable members of 
the Fujiwara family, — Kiyohira, 
Hidehira, and Motohira. The main 
internal pillars are lacquered, and 
inlaid with a kind of mother-of- 
pearl work called Shippo-sogon. On 
each of these are also observable 
traces of images of twelve Buddhist 
deities. Here as elsewhere, however, 
time and neglect have left their 
mark. Among the treasures careful- 
ly preserved, are two paintings of 
Chusonji by Kanaoka, the first great 
Japanese painter ; also paintings of 
Yoshitsune and Benkei, said to be 
by themselves like the figures men- 
tioned above ; — good, bold pieces 



458 



Route 68. — The Northern Railway. 



of colouring. The relics here in- 
clude some fine images of the chief 
deities worshipped by the Tendai 
sect. Benkei's sword and other 
possessions may be seen in the Be?i- 
zaiten-do. Altogether, the collec- 
tion of objects of both artistic and 
historic interest is rich and varied, 
and well merits inspection. In- 
stead of returning to Ichinoseki, 
the traveller may resume his jour- 
ney northwards by train at 

Maczawa (Inn, Sato-ya), 1 ri 24 
did beyond Chusonji. Just before 
reaching this station, the Koromo- 
gawa is crossed, — a river celebrated 
as the scene of the battle that end- 
ed Yoshitsune's career (see p. 67). 
Near 

Miznsawa (Inn, Kamenosu), is 
the site of the ancient military 
headquarters ( Chinjitfu ) of the 
Governor-General of Oshu, a name 
which in early times included all 
N.E. Japan. The Wagakawa, an 
important tributary of the Kita- 
kami, is crossed just before entering 

Kurosawajiri {Inn by Nomura 
Nisuke). Small steamers some- 
times ascend the Kitakami as far 
as this place. Here, too, a pic- 
turesque road to Akita diverges 1. 
over the mountains (see p. 472). 

Hanamaki {Inn by *Kikushichi). 
The railway station is about 1 m. 
from the town. For the road from 
this place to Kamaishi on the E. 
coast, see p. 467. About 9 m. from 
Hanamaki up the valley of the 
Toyosawa, lie the hot springs of 
Osawa, offering better accom- 
modation than any of the other 
spas in the prefecture. The 
water is strongly impregnated with 
alum. Jinrikishas are available all 
the way. The most prominent moun- 
tains seen on the E. are Rokka- 
uehi-yama and Hayachine-yama, 
also known as Sochiho-san ; on 
the W., Nansho-zan and Ganju-san. 

Hizume (Inn by Uchikawa). The 
railway keeps on the r. bank of the 
Kitakami, and crosses the river 
Shizuku-ishi at its junction with 
the Kitakami, before entering 



Morioka (Inns, Mutsu-kwan, Sei- 
fu-kwan, at the station; Murata-ya). 
This the capital of the prefecture 
of Iwate, and formerly the castle- 
town of the Daimyo of Nambu, lies 
1 m. distant from its railway sta- 
tion, and is prettily situated in a 
plain guarded by Ganju-san and 
other lofty mountains. The town 
is noted for its kettles, spun-silk 
goods, vegetables and fruit, Ame- 
rican apples and quinces being 
now extensively grown. The ket- 
tles differ from those of Osaka 
and Kyoto in being a rusty red 
colour, and in the annealing to 
which they are subjected. The ore 
from which they are made comes 
from near the E. coast, and has a 
high reputation. Game is abun- 
dant in winter. 

About 1 ri from the town, a grove of 
cryptomerias is seen on a bluff overhang- j 
ing the river. Here it was that the rebel 
Abe-no-Sadato had his castle, which, 
after a stubborn resistance, was over- 
thrown by Hachiman Taro (see p. 55). 
Long afterwards— so the story goes — when 
Nambu wished to build a castle on the 
same spot, the Shogun's Government, 
remembering the difficulty formerly ex- 
perienced in overcoming the rebel Abe, 
refused to grant permission, so that the 
fortress was erected on the hill which 
afterwards became the centre of Morioka. 

Under the hills to the E. of the 
town stand a number of decaying 
Buddhist temples, the best of which 
is Hoonji, possessing well-preserved 
gilt images of the Five Hundred 
Rakan. The sepia drawing of a 
flying dragon on the roof by Haya- 
shima Renshin, an artist of the 
Kano school, shows much merit. 
In another temple, called Shojuji, 
is a unique pair of ancient screens 
depicting Europeans, some of whom 
are unmistakably Franciscan friars. 

These screens were brought here at the 
end of the 17th century by a daughter of 
Gamo Ujisato, Lord of Hida, who came as 
bride to the Lord of Nambu ; but their 
previous history is unknown. Till re- 
cently they were exhibited only once a 
year, and awakened the superstitious 
honor of the country-folk, who believed 
that human gore had been mixed with 
the pigments in order to give them their 
bright hue. 



Ascent of Gavju-san. 



459 



[Ganju-san, also called Iwate-san 
(6,800 ft.), is, from its regular 
logarithmic curves, a beauti- 
ful object to those travelling up 
or down the valley of the Kita- 
kami-gawa. It can be ascended 
from Morioka by starting early 
in jinrikisha with two men, 
and going to the sulphur 
baths of Daishaku on the 
lower slopes of the mountain, 
the water for which is brought 
down in pipes from Amihari, 2 
m. higher up. The jinrikisha 
should be left at the hamlet for 
the return journey. Daishaku, 
which lies about 7 ri from Mo- 
rioka, can be reached in time 
for lunch, and the afternoon 
pleasantly employed in a climb 
to the source of the hot springs 
at Amihari. 

It is a hard day's climb from 
Daishaku to the top of Ganju- 
san and back ; but the traveller 
has two nights' rest, and hot 
sulphur baths to refresh his 
weary limbs. The ascent of the 
mountain is easy for the first 
few miles ; but gradually it 
begins to zigzag up, through and 
over the roots of trees. Some- 
times it follows the ridge of a 
spur, and then descends to 
cross a valley, in one place 
coming out on a solfatara, 
where the hot water boils up 
and mingles with a cold stream. 
The structure of the mountain 
may be compared to three 
joints of a telescope, there 
being a lower thick cone, then 
a rim or crater, then a second 
cone followed by a second rim 
or crater, and finally a third 
cone. On reaching the outside 
of the first crater, a slight de- 
tour brings one to a ridge sepa- 
rating two little lakes. From 
this spot there is another steep 
climb to the rim of the second 
crater, on the floor of which 
stands a hut for pilgrims. The 
last part of the ascent from 
here is up aslope of fine lapilli, 



inclined at an angle of 27°. 
The top of the mountain is 
really the knife-like edge of 
another crater, half-a-mile in 
diameter, in whose centre rises 
a small cone breached on 
its S.E. side. Strewn along 
the edge, lie numerous offerings 
to the mountain god, which 
have been brought up by pil- 
grims — principally pieces of 
sheet-iron shaped like spear- 
heads, varying in length from 
2 or 3 in. to 2 or 3 ft. The 
interior of the cone may be 
entered by climbing over the 
breach. 

On returning, it is better to 
take the direct road towards 
the vill. of Shizuktt-ishi, cross- 
ing the ridge of the outside 
crater just behind the pilgrims' 
hut, and descending a long 
rocky spur. The return from 
Daishaku can be varied by 
crossing the Shizuku-ishi river 
at the ferry, and going to the 
pleasant hot springs of Tsunagi. 
By following a short way fur- 
ther up the valley, the baths of 
Oshuku (also called Uguisu-no- 
yado) are reached. From here 
the road to Morioka, 13 m., leads 
along the r. bank of the Shi- 
zuku-ishi river. 

Those pressed for time can 
ascend Ganju-san most expedi- 
tiously from Yanagizawa-murciy 
about 4 ri from Morioka, start- 
ing on horseback in the after- 
noon. The accommodation at 
the little inn is miserable ; but 
by engaging guides and using 
torches, the ascent can be be- 
gun about midnight and the 
top reached at daylight, dis- 
tance only 2 ri 23 did. To 
make up for the comparative 
shortness of the distance, the 
climb is so steep in places 
that chains are fastened in the 
rocks to hold on by.] 

Leaving Morioka, we enter on by 
far the finest section of this whole 



460 



Rovte 68. — The Northern Bailway. 



railway journey, — 5 hrs. of constant 
picturesque change, reminding one 
of some of the best parts of Scotland. 
The line first runs over a moor at 
the base of Ganju-san, and crosses 
the Kitakami-gawa which it has 
so long followed, shortly before 
reaching 

Koma. Here Ganju-san is seen 
as a perfectly symmetrical cone, 
while on the spectator's immediate 
r. rises another lovely cone called 
Himeg ami-dak e. Behind this latter, 
on the slopes of Sato-yama, is a 
horse-breeding establishment for the 
Imperial stables. 

Apropos of this, it may be interesting to 
note that mares are almost exclusively 
used in N. Japan, whereas in Tokyo and 
its neighbourhood only stallions are to 
be seen. 

A good road leads 1. from this 
station to the mining district of 
Kazuno, distant some 14 ri. The line 
now runs between moderately high 
pine-clad hills to 

Numaknnai (Inn by Yamaguchi 
Kihei), the last vill. in the valley 
of the Kitakami, and over the 
Nakayama-toge into the valley of 
the Mabechi-gawa. 

Nakayama (Inn, Shibata-ya), at 
the summit of the pass, 1,500 ft. 
above the sea, is the highest point 
reached on the whole journey from 
Tokyo to Aomori. In the imme- 
diate vicinity is a large horse-breed- 
ing establishment of the War De- 
partment, which produces 1,000 
animals yearly. Delightful is now 
the run down the narrow valley of 
the Mabechi-gawa amongst hills 
crowded with every variety of tim- 
ber, the river flashing in and out as 
the train crosses and recrosses it. 
Lacquer-trees line the pathways, 
and dot the fields at the base of the 
hills. Many long tunnels occur in 
this part of the journey. After 
Ichinohe (Inn, Horiguchi), 

Jchi-no-he means the "first gate" or 
" outpost," S'an-no-ke the third, and so on, 
the occurrence of these peculiar names in 
Korth-Kastern Japan being referable to 
their origin in successive posts of defence 
against the Aino aborigines. 



occurs the longest of these tunnels, 
f in., on emerging from which we 
are greeted by a fine view, including 
r. the ridge of Sue-no-matsu-yama, 
celebrated in classical Japanese 
poetry. 

Every Japanese has the following 
stanza by heart : — 

ChigiriJci na 

Katami ni sode wo 
Shibori-tsutsu 

Sue-no-matsu-yama 

JSfami kosaji to wa 



which conveys a vow of mutual love to 
last till the billows shall o'ertop this 
mountain's crest, or in other words, for 
ever. 

Fnkuoka (Inns, Murai, Furu-ya), 
the best town between Morioka and 
Aomori, Hes in a valley § m. north 
of the station. 

San -no-he (Inn, Wada) is 1 m. 
south of its station. The conspicu- 
ous peak on the immediate r. of the 
line is Nagui-dake (2,660 ft.), which 
can be easily climbed in 2 hrs., and 
affords a remarkable view, including 
Herai-dake and Akakura-dake. A 
road, described in Route 76, runs 
from San-no-he to the secluded 
waters of lovely Lake Towada. The 
most picturesque portion of the 
journey is now over. The railway, 
on leaving San-no-he, abandons the 
Oshu Kaido and makes a considera- 
ble detour to the B. 

Shirinchi (Inn, Sagawa-ya) 
stands in an extensive rice-plain 
watered by the Mabechi-gawa, which 
by this time has grown to a wide 
and sluggish river, with low hills 
in the distance on every hand. A 
branch line leads hence to the sea- 
port of Hachi-no-he, 5 m. A little 
beyond 

SBiimoda, we cross the Momoishi- 
gawa, a stream running out of Lake 
Towada and affording good salmon 
fishing ; thence over moorland, 
where horses and cattle are bred, to 
N umasaki, situated on the borders 
of the Ogawara Lagoon, whose two 
parts are known respectively as 
Ane-numa and Imoto-numa, or the 
Elder and Younger Sister. 



.ttUxSVtyYWV: 



k¥ 























Route 69. — Matsushima and Kinkwa-zan. 



461 



Koheji, or Nobechi (Inn, Sendai- 
ya), is a port at the S.E. corner of 
Aomori Bay. A coast road runs 
due N. hence to the hatchet- 
shaped peninsula of Yakeyama, 
where the summit of Kamafuse- 
zan affords a delightful view, and 
a solfatara at the small lake on 
Osore-zan offers some interest. The 
accommodation is everywhere poor. 

The line now follows the shore of 
Aomori Bay, partly under snow- 
sheds, to 

Kominato, and crosses the little 
peninsula which divides the bay 
into two parts. Here the prettily 
shaped hills of Tsugaru show up to 
the 1. like an assemblage of minia- 
ture Fujis. Continuing past 

Asamushi (Inns, Mikuni, Tsuba- 
ki), noted for its hot springs, and 
along the rocky and picturesque 
shore, we at length reach Aomori, 
which has two stations, viz. 

Uramaclii (Inns, *Nakashima-ya, 
some European dishes obtainable ; 
Hayase, Kagi-ya), where travellers 
for Hakodate alight and where also 
the best accommodation is to be 
had, and 

Aomori proper. This, the capital 
of the prefecture of the same name, 
stands at the head of Aomori 
Bay and at the mouth of the small 
river Arakawa, which drains an 
extensive plain shut in by high 
hills. Its straight, wide streets 
give it an aspect unusual for Japan, 
and the shops are large and well- 
supplied. Quantities of salmon are 
caught in the bay ; and besides 
dried salmon and sharks' fins, furs 
from Yezo and cheap lacquer are seen 
in abundance in the shops. The lac- 
quer is of a peculiar variegated 
kind, called Kara-nuri, Tsugaru- 
nuri, or Baka-nuri. The best shop 
is that of the Shikki Jusan Kwaisha. 
A considerable trade passes through 
Aomori, as it is the link connectiDg 
Hakodate with the province of 
Mutsu and the district of Nambu 
in Rikuchu. It is also the chief 
outlet of the large migration of 
country-people who annually cross 



over to Yezo in the spring for the 
fisheries on the coast of that island, 
returning in autumn to their homes 
on the mainland. 

There is daily steam communica- 
tion between Aomori, Hakodate, and 
Mororan, the steamers generally 
leaving late at night. It is advisa- 
ble in the summer to secure one's 
berth by letter beforehand, as the 
cabin accommodation is limited. 



EOUTE 69. 

Matsushima and Kinkwa-zan. 

the matsushima aechipelago. 
nobiru. ishinomaki. 

By train from Sendai on the 
Northern Railway to Shiogama. 
in ^ hr. by branch line. 

The archipelago of pine-clad 
islets collectively bearing the name 
of Matsushima, has been famed for 
its beauty ever since northern 
Japan was conquered from the 
Aino aborigines in the 8th cen- 
tury, and is one of the San-kei, 
or " Three Most Beautiful Scenes ,T 
of Japan, the other two being 
Miyajima and Ama-no-hashidate. 
A lengthened form of the name, 
Shiogama-no-Mafcsushima, i.e., " the 
Pine Islands of Shiogama," is 
often made use of, Shiogama being 
the town on the coast where the 
curious landscape begins. The 
favourite way of viewing the scene 
is to row or sail across to the hamlet 
which has borrowed the name of Ma- 
tsushima (boat there and back with 
2 men, $1), unless it be desired also 
to visit Ishinomaki and Kinkwa-zan, 
in which case an excellent view may 
be gained from the steamer's deck. 
These steamers ply daily between 
Shiogama and Ishinomaki, starting 
after the arrival of the first train 
from Sendai. The passage to Ishino- 
maki occupies about 3 hrs., or rather 



462 



Route 69. — Matsushima and Kinkwa-zan. 



less when weather permits of the 
small river steamers goiDg outside 
the bar at Nobiru, instead of taking 
the lengthier canal route. The 
larger boats which connect with the 
Nippon Yusen Kwaisha's steamers 
at Oginohama on their voyages to 
and from Yokohama and Hakodate, 
also pass through the little archi- 
pelago, and take from 2 to 3 hrs. 
to cover the distance between Shio- 
gama and Oginohama^ 

Shiogama (Inns, *Ofca-ya, Asano- 
ya, Ebi-ya, all near the railway sta- 
tion and the pier ; the old and noted 
inn on the hill, called Shoga-ro, a 
former pleasure-house of the Prince 
of Sendai, is still in existence, but 
being nowadays inconveniently 
situated for train and steamer, is 
little patronised by travellers). 

The Temple, which once belonged 
to the Shingon sect of Buddhists 
and was known under the name of 
Horenji, should be visited. It has 
been transferred to the worship of 
the Shinto god Shiogama Daimyo- 
jin, a son of the creator Izanagi, 
and the reputed discoverer of the 
manufacture of salt b}^ evaporation 
from sea-water. The word Shio-gama 
means Salt-Cauldron. In the temple 
court will be noticed a sun-dial in- 
scribed with Roman figures. 

It bears date 1783, and was presented 
by Rin Shihei, a writer noted for his 
zealous advocacy of the defence of the 
country against foreign aggression, which 
he prophetically foresaw. 

There is likewise a handsome 
though weather-beaten iron lan- 
tern, presented by the warrior Izumi 
Saburo Tadahira in A.D. 1187. But 
in the temple's present state, the 
magnificent cryptomerias and other 
trees, in the midst of whose deep 
shade it stands, form undoubtedly 
the chief attraction of the place. 
Shiogama is noted for its ink-stones. 

About 1\ ri from Shiogama by 
jinrikisha, stands a stone monument 
called Tsubo-no-Ishi, commemorat- 
ing the former presence of a castle 
named Taga-no-Jo, built A.D. 624. 
At that time the Ainos still occupied 



the country to the north, and an 
inscription states that the frontier 
lay only 120 ri (probably of 6 elm 
each, that is 49 miles) distant. Old 
pottery is dug up in the vicinity. 

From Shiogama to the hamlet of 
Matsushima (Inn, Kwangetsu- 
ro), is a delightful sail amidst the 
promontories, bays, and islets, which 
stretch along the coast for 18 ri as 
far as Kinkwa-zan, the most cele- 
brated of the group. 

There are said to be 88 islands between 
Shiogama and Matsushima, and 808 in all 
between Shiogama and Kinkwa-zan, of 
which very few are inhabited. But eight 
and its compounds are favourite round 
numbers with the Japanese, and more- 
over the smallest rocks are included in 
the enumeration. The average height of 
the islands is from 60 ft. to 80 ft., the 
highest 300 ft. All are formed of vol- 
canic tuff, into which the sea makes 
rapid inroads. Doubtless many of the 
smaller isles disappear in this manner, 
while their number is maintained bj the 
gradual breaking up of peninsulas. 

Each island, down to the least, 
has received a separate name, many 
of them fantastic, as " Buddha's 
Entry into Nirvana," " Question and 
Answer Island," " the Twelve Im- 
perial Consorts," and so on; and no 
less fantastic than the names are 
the shapes of the islands themselves. 

In almost every available nook 
stands one of those thousand pine- 
trees that have given name and 
fame to the locality. At the hamlet 
of Matsushima, the temple of Ztci- 
ganji, containing the ancestral 
tablets of the Date family, will 
well repay a visit, though its ex- 
terior is not promising. In the 
outer court, in front of a small cave 
called the Hdshin ga Iwaya, stand 
two large figures of Kwannon cut 
in slate-stone. There is also a 
well-carved wooden figure of Date 
Masamune in a shrine behind the 
chief altar. The various apart- 
ments of the temple are handsomely 
decorated ; and when the gold foil 
so lavishly strewn about was 
fresh, the effect must have been 
very fine. Specimens of non-hollow 
bamboo are brought for sale at the 



Tomiyama. Nobiru. Ishinomaki. 



468 



Till, of Matsushima, but being rare, 
are somewhat expensive. Two ri 
distant lies 

Tomiyama, a hill from which 
by far the best general view of the 
archipelago is obtained, and where 
any traveller who, during the boat 
journey from Shiogama, may have 
been disappointed with his trip, 
will allow that the locality possesses 
great beauty, even should he think 
that this has been somewhat ex- 
aggerated by Japanese popular 
report. The whole distance may 
be accomplished in jinrikishas, ex- 
cepting the last 3 cho leading up to 
the temple of Taikdji, which stands 
near the top of the ascent and 
is said to have been founded by 
the celebrated Tarnura Maro (see p. 
65). From this spot the eye wanders 
over a maze of islets and promon- 
tories, land and sea being mixed in 
inextricable but lovely confusion. 
In the direction of Shiogama, the 
double peak of Shiraishi-no-take 
may be descried in the blue dis- 
tance, while to the r. rises the range 
dividing the province of Eikuzen 
from those of Uzen and Ugo. The 
highest hill to the 1. is on the island 
of Funairi-shima, above the port 
of Ishibama, a place of call for mer- 
chant steamers. Tomiyama, being 
but a short distance off the main- 
road to Ishinomaki, may be taken 
on the way thither either by jinriki- 
sha or basha, — altogether about 
9 ri from Matsushima. 

In going by steamer from Shio- 
gama, the islets are left behind 
after an hour's sail, and the canal 
which connects the shallow waters 
of the bay with Nobiru is entered. 

Notoini (poor accommodation). 
The so-called port of this place 
is little more than a creek with 
5 or 6 ft. draught of water, and 
has a bar across its mouth. Some 
time ago, the course of the river 
was altered by making a cutting 
to a point about 2 m. inland, 
where there is a wide bend. It 
was expected that the flow of the 
river in its new bed would suffice to 



keep the channel clear, that the 
old bed of the Naruse-gawa would 
be available to take off any super- 
fluous amount of water in times 
of flood, and that the bar could be 
kept down by dredging. But all 
attempts to effect this have been 
unsuccessful, and the failure has 
put a stop to various other 
schemes which had the attention 
of Government for increasing the 
facilities of trade in this region. 
The Canal, 10 m. in length, con- 
necting Nobiru with the Kitakami- 
gawa 2 m. above Ishinomaki, is 
part of the original scheme for 
making Nobiru the chief port in 
the Bay of Sendai, the mouth 
of the Kitakami being also ex- 
posed to the full sweep of the 
Pacific Ocean and to the violent 
S.W. gales that drive through the 
Matsushima group. A consequence 
of this is that the bar at the mouth 
of this river has likewise defied all 
efforts at removal. The canal is 
100 ft. wide, and just deep enough 
to admit of large cargo-boats being 
towed through. The level is main^ 
tained by means of a lock at the 
river end. The river steamers make 
use of this canal, except when the 
sea is very smooth outside. 

ishinomaki (Inns, *Asano-ya, 
Hoshi-ya), noted for its slate-quar- 
ries and salmon fisheries, stands at 
the mouth of the river Kitakami, 
the natural outlet for the trade of 
Nambu and the north. It is a 
bustling little sea-port, carrying on 
a fair amount of ship-building in 
European style. 

Hydriyama, a hill at the en- 
trance of the harbour, commands 
an extensive sea view, including 
the Matsushima archipelago, the 
windings of the river, a range of 
high mountains inland, and a 
bird's-eye view of the town. 

Steamers ascend the river daily 
to Kozenji (see p. 457), but the 
journey down the river is recom- 
mended instead, as the boats run 
through to Shiogama in 1 day, gene- 
rally in from 9 to 10 hrs. 



464 



Route 69, — Matsushima and Kinhwa-zan. 



2. — Kink w a- z an. 
The most direct means of reach- 
ing this sacred island is by one 
of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha's tri- 
weekly ste_amersto Oginohama(Inns, 
Kagi-ya, Omori), in the Bay of Sen- 
dai, whence small sailing-boats can 
be obtained for Kinkwa-zan, a dis- 
tance of about 10 ri. But it is more 
generally approached from the port 
of Ishinomaki, where also boats 
are procurable ; or if it is desired 
to shorten the sea passage, jin- 
rikishas may be taken from Ishi- 
nomaki to the vill. of Wada-no-ha 
(Inn by Ishikawa Jubei), which 
lies 1^ ri further along the coast 
between Ishinomaki and Ogino- 
hama. The hire of boats from 
Wada-no-ha to Kinkwa-zan was 
$1.50 per boatman in 1893. The 
distance by water is estimated at 
11 ri, of which again 2 ri may be 
saved by landing at the hamlet 
of Aikawa-hama (Inn, Izumi-ya), 
situated in a small bay to the 
W. of the channel separating 
Kinkwa-zan from the mainland. 
The latter plan is recommended. 
There is a road from Wada-no-ha 
to Oginohama, 4^ ri ; but it is not 
practicable for jinrikishas, neither is 
the hilly path of 4 ri more leading 
directly to the ferry at Kinkwa-zan. 
The time taken from Wada-no-ha 
depends upon the state of the wind, 
which, if unfavourable, affords an 
additional reason for landing at Ai- 
kawa-hama. From this hamlet to 
the ferry called Yamadori, is a walk 
of a little more than 1 m. over a 
low pass, the top of which affords an 
entrancing view of Kinkwa-zan and 
the entire Matsushima archipelago. 
A short descent then leads to the 
ferry-house, where the sonorous 
notes of a fine bronze bell announce 
to the boatmen on the sacred 
island that passengers are waiting 
to be conveyed across. Boats can- 
not be kept on this part of the 
mainland, owing to its exposure to 
the great seas that roll in from 
the Pacific, whilst the W. side 
of Kinkwa-zan opposite to it is 



comparatively sheltered. Spacious 
boats well-manned soon perform 
the 2 m. passage, and land the 
visitor at a small breakwater on 

Kinkwa-zan, a short distance 
below the temples. The tame deer 
with which the island abounds 
form picturesque objects as they 
stand on projecting ledges of rock, 
or graze quietly by the side of the 
road that leads up through a wood 
composed of pine, beech, and chest- 
nut trees. The only buildings on 
the island are those attached to the 
temples at which every one must 
stay ; but there is ample accommo- 
dation for all under the massive 
roof of the main edifice. Passports 
should be shown by the foreign 
visitor to the priests. A contribu- 
tion of from $2 to $3, if he desires 
to stay overnight, will generally 
ensure the use of the jodan, two 
large handsome rooms. If it is 
intended to return the same day, a 
lesser offering will suffice. No other 
payments are necessary. Excellent 
vegetarian food is provided, and 
served up by the acolytes. Guides 
will also be furnished to conduct 
the visitor round the island, if a 
request to that effect is made. 

Kinkwa-zan is one of the most renown- 
ed spots in the north, and has been, in 
spite of its comparative inaccessibility, 
the resort of pilgrims from all parts of 
Japan for centuries past. Such was its 
sanctity in old days, and such the in- 
ferior position assigned to the female sex, 
that no members of the latter were 
allowed to gaze on the island, much 
less put foot on its soil. It need scarce- 
ly be said that those days are past; 
but some of the old customs connect- 
ed with the place still linger. For in- 
stance, every pilgrim is conveyed gratis 
to and from the island, and receives food 
arid shelter from the priests until his de- 
votions are over. What contribution he 
may choose to make, rests entirely with 
himself. A quaint superstition prevails 
regarding the deer on the island. When 
the animals are sick, they are said to be 
found having their mouths tied up with 
skime-nawa (the straw rope often sus- 
pended before Shinto shrines) ; and it is 
further asserted that they refuse all food 
until recovery, when the bandage drops off. 
When questioned on the subject by the 
present writer, the priests ascribed the 
phenomenon to supernatural agency; 



Kinkwa-zan. 



465 



but being apparently imbued with the 
modern spirit of enquiry, added that 
they had referred the matter to the pro- 
fessors of the Imperial University in 
Tokyo for further explanation ! 

The origin of the name Kinkwa-zan 
("Golden-flower Mountain") is obscure. 
Tradition asserts that gold was found on 
the island, then known as Michinoku- 
yama; and the following lines in the 
Manyoshu, an anthology of the 8th century, 
are supposed to refer to the discovery : 



gi no 
Mi yo sakaen to 
Azuma naom 

Michinoku-yama ni 
Kogane hana saku 

which means, " To add lustre to the sov- 
ereign's august reign, golden flowers 
bloom in the mountains of Michinoku in 
the East." It is more probable, however, 
that it derived its name from the glitter 
of the quantity of mica found in the soil. 

Almost everything required by the 
temple inmates is raised on the 
spot. Their sake, of which 130 koku 
are produced yearly, is specially 
noted for the soothing peculiarity 
that no headache follows even un- 
limited libations, and every pil- 
grim may therefore drink to his 
heart's content. The chief festi- 
vals take place in February, March, 
August, and September. Begard- 
ing the history of the temples very 
little can be learnt, all the records 
and relics having perished by fire. 
Before the transfer of the buildings 
to the Shinto cult, they were attach- 
ed to the Shingon sect of Buddhists, 
and dedicated to the service of the 
goddess Benten. Some of the ori- 
ginal smaller shrines are still stand- 
ing ; but the Hondo, or chief tem- 
ple, was built only some fourteen 
years ago, and is dedicated to the 
god and goddess Kanayama-Hiko- 
no-Mikoto and Kanayama-Hime-no- 
Mikoto. Though it otherwise ex- 
hibits pure Shinto style, the eaves 
are adorned with fine carvings. 
The contribution box in front, made 
of a block of slate-stone and mea- 
suring 9 ft. in length and 3 ft. in 
breadth, with carvings of deer in 
relief, as well as the gaku in the 
oratory — a splendid piece of carving 
in keyaki wood, which took three 



years to finish— well deserve inspec- 
tion. 

The walk to the summit of Kin- 
kwa-zan takes about \ hr. from 
the temple, being but some 16 did. 
The path leads behind the main 
buildings, mostly through broken 
boulders and over the interlaced 
roots of beech-trees. The objects 
pointed out on the way are de- 
tached pieces of rock with fanciful 
designations. One of these rocks, to 
judge from the immense cairn raised 
upon it, seems to have attracted 
the special attention of pilgrims, 
and here it is that Kobo Daishi is 
said to have sat in meditation when 
he visited the island. The glorious 
view from the summit repays the 
traveller for any difficulty he may 
have had in reaching Kinkwa-zan. 
Nothing obstructs the vista of the 
broad and blue Pacific ; for the 
mountain, although densely wooded 
on all sides, slopes gradually down 
to the sea. On the W. side, the 
whole Matsushima archipelago is 
embraced, — even the outermost isles 
to the N., fringed with a thousand 
pines and encircled by white break- 
ers. Takahashi - yama, a higher 
peak to the N. W. on the mainland, 
shuts out the prospect in that direc- 
tion only. 

The small shrine on the top of 
Kinkwa-zan is dedicated to Wata- 
zumi-no-Mikoto, the Shinto God of 
the Sea. Close by is the site of the 
lighthouse which stood there until 
the erection of the present fine 
granite structure on the E. side of 
the island. A path from the sum- 
mit descends to the lighthouse, and 
joins what is called the Pilgrims' 
Circuit, a road round the island 
which no visitor should fail to 
follow, as it affords glimpses of 
wild coast scenery unsurpassed on 
the N.E. coast, noted though this 
be for its picturesque beauty. The 
circuit of the island by road is 
estimated at from 5 to 6 ri, and 
takes about the same number of 
hours to accomplish. 



466 



Route 70. — The North-East Coast. 



The return from Kinkwa-zan is 
usually made direct by water to 
Oginohama, Ishinomaki, or — should 
the wind be favourable — to Shio- 
gama. 



KOUTE 70.. 

The North-East Coast. 

from morioka to miyako. coast 
road to yamada, kamaishi, and 
kesen-numa. 

The North-East Coast, hitherto 
comparatively in accessible, can now 
be approached from several points 
on the Northern Railway. Small 
steamers also ply at irregular 
intervals along the coast, which 
deserves to be better known. Spe- 
cially to be recommended is the 
portion embracing the sea-board of 
the provinces of Rikuchu and Riku- 
zen, extending southwards from 
Miyako to Kesen-numa. The road 
leads over the necks of hilly penin- 
sulas, disclosing marvellous views 
of the fiord-like coast and of the 
mountain ridges that extend down 
to it. The harbours are the finest 
in Japan, though unfortunately but 
little advantage can be taken of them, 
as a mountain range shuts out the 
fertile valley of the Kitakami-gawa 
which attracts to itself all the pro- 
duce of the surrounding country, the 
scanty maritime population having 
to subsist on fishing and on the 
cultivation of small isolated patches 
of land around the bays. The nature 
of the country sufficiently indicates 
the roughness of the roads and of 
the accommodation to be expected. 
North of Miyako, the mountains 
recede from the sea and the land- 
scape becomes monotonous. 

From Morioka, a road practicable 
for jinrikishas leads to Miyako on 



the E. coast. The trip takes 2 days' 
hard travelling, the only available 
resting-place being Kawauchi^ al- 
most exactly half-way. 

Itinerary. 

MORIOKA to :— Ri. Cho M. 

Yanagawa 5 10 13 

Tashiro 2 14 5| 

Kadoma 2 9 5J 

Kawauchi 4 3 10 

Kawai 4 7 10J 

Haratai 3 6 7f 

Hikime 2 26 6£ 

MIYAKO 3 5 7f 

Total 27 8 66J 

Soon after leaving Morioka, the 
road begins a steady ascent for 7 
ri, reaching the water-shed after a 
series of large elbow-bends. The 
summit (2,600 ft.) is called Kabuto- 
kami-san, since here it was that 
the helmet of the rebel Sadato was 
found after his defeat near Ichino- 
seki by Hachiman Taroin A.D. 1100. 
From this point down to the sea, 
the road follows the course of the 
Hegawa-kawa, the grandest scenery 
coming some 3 ri below the pass 
on its E. side. Here for 2 ri the 
road is cut out, half tunnel-wise, 
high up along the face of the sheer 
precipice, which looks down upon 
the torrent tossing and foaming in 
its rocky channel. To see this 
to perfection, an early start from 
Morioka is necessary. From Ka- 
wauchi to Miyako is an endless 
succession of picturesque land- 
scapes, with granite boulders glit- 
tering in the broadening river as 
it sweeps round jutting cliffs and 
pillared blocks of basalt. Near 
Kadoma, a path branches off to the 
S., leading up the valley of the 
Oyama-gawa, whence the ascent of 
Hayachine-yama (6,660 ft.), the 
highest mountain in the district E. 
of the Kitakami-gawa, can be made. 

Miyako (Inn by Kikuchi Seibei) 
lies on the shores of a bay 5 m. 
deep, protected by an island forming 
a fine harbour. 



Route 71. — Yonezawa to Murakami and Tsuru-ga-oka. 467 



Coast Boad to Kamaishi. 

Itinerary. 

MIYAKO to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Yamada 6 — 14| 

Ozuchi 5 12 13 

KAMAISHI 3 19 8J 

Total 14 31 36J 



Horses are procurable at any of 
these places. 

Yamada (Inn by Shirotsuchi Sen- 
taro). Two villages lie on the 
shores of the magnificent bay that 
forms the harbour of Yamada, sur- 
rounded by mountains over 1,000 
ft. in height. 

Kamaishi (Inn by Niinuma) is 
situated at the head of a rocky 
inlet 2 m. deep. The ascent of 
Goyo-san, 3,900 ft., can easily be 
made from this place. About 10 m. 
inland is a district abounding in iron 
•ore of good quality, to work which 
large sums of money were spent by 
the Government some years ago, 
with but meagre results. 

From Kamaishi, the traveller 
may rejoin the Northern Bail way 
at Morioka by the Kamaishi Kaido, 
of which the following is the 

Itinerary. 
KAMAISHI to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Koshi 4 31 11| 

TONO 6 20 16 

Shimo Miyamori . . 5 24 13f 

Tassobe 1 19 3f 

Ohasama 2 15 6 

Otobe 4 33 12 

MOBIOKA 2 32 7 

Total 28 30 70i 



A somewhat more direct road for 
travellers going southwards diverges 
at the old castle-town of Tono (Inn 
by Murakami), and joins the rail- 
way at Hanamaki station, 1£ hr. 
from Morioka. 

The journey from Kamaishi to 
Kesen-numa will occupy two days 



on foot, with very poor accommoda- 
tion at the wayside hamlets. From. 
Kesen-niiina (Inn by Kumagae 
Ichibei), a jinrikisha road leads via, 
Semmaya to Ichinoseki on the 
Northern Bailway. The distance is 
approximately 13 ri. 



ROUTE 71. 

From Yonezawa by the Miomotb 
Valley to Murakami on the 
N.W. Coast and to Tsuru-ga- 
oka. 

Itinerary. 

YONEZAWA to:— Bi. Cho. M. 

Komatsu 3 ■ — 7 \ 

Tenoko 3 9 8 

Oguni 9 — 22 

Funato 2 — 5 

Arazawa 2 18 6 

Miomote 3 — 7J 

Iwakuzure 5 — 12 J 

MUBAKAMI .... 5 — 12 J 
Nakamura (by the 

Shindo) 8 31 21J- 

Arakawa 18 1J 

Nakatsugi 1 — 2J 

Kinomata 4 6 10J 

Sakashita 3 10 8 

Tagawa-yu 2 — 5 

TSUBU-GA-OKA 1 31 4J 

Total 54 15 133 



This rough but picturesque route 
is recommended only to pedestrians. 
Streams have occasionally to be 
forded. Jinrikishas can be taken 
from Yonezawa to Funato, from 1 
ri below Iwakuzure to Murakami 
and on to Nakamura, and again 
from Tagawa-yu to Tsuru-ga-oka, 
but must not be counted on. With 
few exceptions, the only accommo- 
dation is at the house of the head- % 
man of each village. 

The road lies first along the edge 
of the plain, then over a slight 



468 Route 71. — Yonezawa to Murakami and Tsuru-ga-oha. 



ascent, and up the valley of the 
Shirakawa to 

Tenoko (I1141, Yamagata-ya). The 
old road over the Sakura-toge is no 
longer used. The new road leads 
over the Uzn-toge, then down the 
valley, and eventually through the 
fine gorge of the Uzugawa. It 
is in places almost tunnelled out of 
the cliffs above the stream. Snow 
lies in patches here till the middle 
of June. Iide-san, towering to a 
height of 7,130 ft., is well seen to 
the 1. before reaching 

Ogiini (Inn by Nozawa Yohei). 
Thence a very bad jinrikisha road 
and a ferry over the Arakawa lead 
to Funato. From Arazawa a road 
direct to Murakami branches off 1. 
The path to Miomote — a mountain 
trail — keeps on up the valley, climbs 
a spur of Washigasu, or the Eagles' 
Eyrie (4,140 ft.), and crosses a long 
pass whose successive dips bear 
different names. Asahi-dake (6,530 
ft.) is seen to the r. After 2 ri the 
path descends to a stream which 
has to be forded, whence 1 ri more 
takes the traveller to the Miomote- 
gazva, a river famed for its beauty. 
This too may have to be forded ; 
but usually a boat can be found by 
continuing up the bank to a pool at 
the entrance of the gorge. On a 
little level space opposite stands 

Miomote (accommodation at the 
temple), surrounded by hills entire- 
ly wooded except for ledges of rock. 
A highly picturesque walk of 10 did 
may be taken up the gorge of the 
Miomote-gawa. The trail to Iwaku- 
zure, which is very rough — the dis- 
tance is 5 ri and occupies 7 hours — 
leads straight up the Azuki-zaka, 
opposite to a spring called Honoki 
Shimizu, or "Magnolia Spring," and 
thence over steep slopes and ridges 
across a jumble of heavily wooded 
hills. About 1 ri from Miomote, by 
the side of the path, stands a shrine 
— a tiny shed over a stick hung 
with gohei — dedicated to the local 
mountain god, Dorokujin. 

As the coolies pass, each lays a leaf on 
the shrine, and offers up a prayer for safe 



keeping. It seems that Dorokujin wa& 
one day passing this way to the Magnolia 
Spring, when he met, at a ravine called 
Ozawa, a beautiful maiden who was none 
other than the goddess Benten. She con- 
sented to wed him, and then left, pro- 
mising to return ; but as she never came 
back, he still waits and wanders over the 
mountains, looking after the safety of 
wayfarers. 

After a distant peep at the sea 
from the Toyaba-toge, the path 
descends to the Ozawa, 2J ri, which 
is merely a stream that, by choos- 
ing one's spot, can be crossed from 
rock to rock ; then it rises over the 
Ozaiua-toge, descending again to the 
Miomote-gawa, whose steep bank it 
follows 1. high up, past a second 
shrine to Dorokujin at a vantage- 
point commanding a bend in the 
river. It is 2£ ri more to* Iwa- 
kuzure. A still better plan is to 
hire a boat and drop down the 
rapids, 5 ri, in about 2 hrs. to 

Murakami (Inn, *Mura-ya), a 
fair-sized town. After crossing the 
Miomote-gawa near its mouth,, we 
see to the r. Eboshi-yama and the 
Echigo Fuji, a double-crested moun- 
tain, one of whose peaks assumes in 
miDiature the exact form of its great 
namesake, and others most various 
in size and contour. Clusters of pines 
and cryptomerias, and the never-end- 
ing green of a rich cultivation along 
the lower level and of the grassy 
and leafy heights, contribute to the 
charm of the landscape. 

From Nakamura, it is a per- 
petual succession of steep ascents. 

[An alternative way to Tsuru-ga- 
oka — wilder and longer (17 ri) — 
branches off at Nakatsugi over 
the Agari-toge, passing through 
the hamlets of Yamakumada, 
Tazawa, and Hongo.] 

The principal sight on the way is 
Urushi-yama no Iivaya, a striking 
mass of grey rock, which towers 
romantically above a purling brook 
from amidst a glade of giant cryp- 
tomerias, and is half-shrouded in 
live oaks and creepers that take root 
in almost inaccessible nooks and 



Pioute 72. — Sendai to Yamagata and Yonezawa. 



469 



Legend avers that the hero Hachiman 
Taro here built him a roof of arrows as 
a shelter from the weather, when he had 
defeated his foes in this mountain fast- 
ness. Hence the name (or rather per- 
haps the name may have given rise to the 
story) of Yabuki Daimyojin, lit. the " God 
of the Arrow-roofing," under which this 
warrior is worshipped as the local Shinto 
deity. 

Tagawa-yu, a village so called 
from its hot springs, is situated at 
the base of the Dainichi-toge. It 
contains several good tea-houses 
with pleasant bathing accommoda- 
tion. For 

Tsui u-ga-oka 9 see next page. 



ROUTE 72. 

From Sendai to Yamagata and 
Yonezawa. 

Itinerary. 
SENDAI to :— Bi. Cho. M. 

Ayako 3 — 7J 

Sakunami 4 — 9f 

Sekiyama 5 34 14£ 

Tendo 3 26 9^ 

YAMAGATA 3 8 7 J 

Kaminoyama .... 3 18 8J 

Nakayama 1 33 4f 

Akayu 2 24 6i 

YONEZAWA .... 4 4 10 

Total 32 3 781 



This route is two easy days' 
journey by jinrikisha, staying the 
first night at Yamagata. Sendai 
and Yamagata are also connected by 
a more direct but rougher road over 
a pass called the Futakuchi-toge. 

Sakunami (Inns, Koyeki, Sato), 
situated in a deep valley with pre- 
cipitous sides, possesses excellent 
hot baths, and is a pleasant place 
to stay at. The main road from 
Akita to Yamagata is joined at the 
town of 



Tendo, where it emerges on a 
plain which narrows towards Yama- 
gata. The views in this vicinity are 
very pleasing. The most striking 
object in the landscape is the sum- 
mit of Gwassan (for ascent of this 
mountain see next page), which 
rises behind picturesque lesser 
ranges, and whose slopes continue, 
even during the hottest part of the 
year, to be covered with large 
patches of snow. 

Yamagata (Inns, Goto, Echigo- 
ya), capital of the prefecture of the 
same name, and formerly the castle- 
town of Mizuno Izumi-no-Kami, is 
well-situated on a slight eminence, 
and has broad and clean streets 
with good shops. Leaving the high- 
ly cultivated plain of Yamagata, 
we enter some low hills, on the slope 
of one of which stands 

Kaminoyama (Inn, Kame-ya). 
This town boasts hot mineral baths, 
which, on account of their efficacy 
in rheumatism, attract visitors from 
considerable distances. Most of the 
inns are built high up the slope 
of the hill. Kaminoyama is noted 
as being one of the driest places in 
Japan. It has also a pleasiug repu- 
tation for cleanliness, and may be 
recommended as a health resort. 
There are plenty of walks in the near 
neighbourhood, and picturesque ex- 
cursions in many directions further 
afield. 

Akayu (Inn, Minato-j^a) is another 
place noted for its hot sulphur 
springs; but the bathing sheds stand 
in the most crowded part of the 
town where four streets meet, while 
the inns are apt to be filled with 
patients, and to be too noisy for 
the taste of foreign travellers. 
After crossing the Matsukawa, and 
passing the vill. of Nukanome, we 
reach 

Yonezawa (see p. 458). 



470 



Route 73. — Sendai to Tsuru~ga-oha and Akita. 



ROUTE 73. 

Fkom Sendai to Tsuru-ga-oka, 
Sakata, Honjo, and Akita. 

ascent op haguro-san and gwas- 
san. tsuru-ga-oka to yamagata. 
ascent of chokai-zan. 
Itinerary. 

SENDAI to :— Bi. did. M. 



Shinjo .... 
IMoto-Aikai 
Furukuchi 
Kiyokawa 
Karigawa . . 



TSURU-GA-OKA 
Back to Fujishima 

Niibori 

SAKATA 

Fukura 

Shiokoshi 

Hirazawa 

HONJO 

Nakamura 

Araya 

AKITA 



25 


31 


63 


2 


10 


U 


2 


8 


5i 


3 


12 


8* 


1 


12 


3* 


1 


34 


4f 


2 


8 


5* 


2 


8 


5* 


2 


26 


6? 


1 


33 


43 

^4 


5 


6 


12f 


5 


14 


13* 


2 


33 


7 


3 


7 


n 


6 


— 


14? 


4 


25 


1U 


1 


10 


3 



Total 74 25 180J 

This route has been compiled for 
those travellers whose chief object 
is mountain climbing, and who, 
after completing their tour, will be 
able to take steamer for Hakodate 
either at Sakata or at Akita. 

The road is the same as Section 
3 of Route 74 as far as Shinjo, where 
it diverges to the 1. to reach 

Moto-Aikai. Soon after passing 
this vill., it arrives at a ferry over 
the Mogami-gaiva, cne of the most 
important rivers of N. Japan, and the 
scenery becomes highly picturesque. 
The river, though flowing between 
high hills, covered partly with 
grass, partly with splendid yews and 
cryptomerias, is quite placid, and is 
studded with primitive boats having 
brown mats for sails. Descending 
a pleasantly cultivated valley, we 
reach Karigaioa, where the main 
road to Sakata joins in on the r. 



Tsnrn-ga-oka or Shonai (Inn by 
Tabayashi Gorobei) was formerly 
the castle-town of a Daimyo called 
Sakai Saemon-no-jo. The retainers 
of this personage are remembered 
for the sturdy resistance which 
they offered in 1868 to the Mikado's 
troops, and for their rough, un- 
cultivated manners. There are 
several remarkable waterfalls in 
the neighbourhood of Tsuru-ga-oka,. 
viz. Shiraito-no-taki near Kiyo- 
kawa, whose height is locally esti- 
mated at 74 ft. and its breadth 
at 24 f fc. ; No-no-taki, near the foot 
of Maya-san, about 100 ft. high ;. 
and Hitoguburi in the same vicinity. 
These last two waterfalls, tumbling 
over different sides of the same 
steep ridge, are visible at the same 
time, and with some smaller falls 
about 20 ft. in height, make a 
charming picture. 

[Knguro-san and Gwassan may 

be conveniently climbed from 
Tsuru-ga-oka. Gwassan, the 
higher of the two, is only 6,200 
ft. above the level of the sea ;, 
and it is therefore not so much 
on account of their height 
as of their reputation for 
sanctity, that they are known 
throughout the length and 
breadth of the land, and yearly 
attract crowds of pilgrims. 

A curious discussion has 
arisen concerning the existence 
of a third mountain called Yu- 
dono-san, to which, together 
with Haguro-san and Gwassan,. 
the collective name of San-zan> 
or the "Three Mountains," is 
applied. 

Yndono-san. is marked on almost 
all Japanese maps, posts point the 
way to it, pious pilgrims plan the 
ascent of it, and — no such moun- 
tain exists! This, on the authority 
of Dr. E. Naumann, long attached 
to , the Imperial Japanese Survey 
Department, and probably better 
acquainted with the byways of Japan 
than any other man living. Accord- 
ing to Mr. Percival Lowell, however, 
Yudono-san, though not itself a moun- 
tain, is a hollow on the shoulder of a 
mountain called Um ba-ga-take. This* 



Haguro-san. Gwassan. Chokai-zan. 



471 



spot is considered sacred, and is a 
goat of pilgrims. Those who affirm 
and those who deny the existence of 
the sacred mountain would therefore 
seem to be equally in the right, as 
the question is one which turns on 
the definition of the word "moun- 
tain," or rather of the Japanese 
word san. 

It is necessary, in order to 
avoid the discomfort of spend- 
ing two nights on the moun- 
tains, to start at a very early 
hour. Haguro-san is visited 
first, 4 ri. Thence to the sum- 
mit of Gwassan is 9 ri ; but ac- 
commodation for the night can 
be obtained at any of the three 
hamlets situated on its slope. 
The traveller is advised to 
choose the highest of the three, 
and next day to return to 
Tsuru-ga-oka via Tamuki and 
Oami, in the neighbourhood of 
■which latter vill. may be seen 
the primitive method of cross- 
ing an otherwise impassable 
ravine by kago-watashi, that is, 
a basket slung to ropes. Instead 
of returning to Tsuru-ga-oka, 
it is also possible to reach Yama- 
gata by descending from the 
top of Gwassan to the hamlet 
of Iwanezawa, a walk of 6 ri, 
where, at a distance of 1^ ri, 
one meets the road from Tsuru- 
ga-oka to Yamagata via the 
Boku-ju-ri-goe, of which the fol- 
lowing is a complete itinerary: — 

TSURU-GA-OKA to:— Ri. Cho. M. 

Matsune 2 33 7 

Top of Jino-toge. .1 — 2 J 

Churenji Onsen . . 8 \ 

Oami 1 — U 

Tamugi 1 — 2| 

Sasagoya hut 3 — 7J 

Top of Rokujuri- 

goe 1 18 3| 

Shizu 2 — 5 

Hondoji 2 34 7£ 

Mizusawa 1 20 3f 

Nagasaki 4 18 11 

YAMAGATA .... 3 — 7£ 



Total 24 23 60J 



Jinrikishas are practicable 
only for a few ri at either ex- 
tremity of this road.] 

Leaving Tsuru-ga-oka, the road 
crosses the Mogami-gawa close to 
its mouth, before reaching 

Sakata {Inn, Miura-ya), a port 
of call for steamers. The principal 
street presents a peculiar appear- 
ance, with its houses standing in 
separate enclosures. 

[From Fukura (fair accommo- 
dation), the ascent of Cliokai- 
zass, sometimes called Tori- 
no-umi-yama, may best be 
made. A trip to this magni- 
ficent mountain is strongly 
recommended. Scarcely any 
other peak in Japan, Yari-ga- 
take perhaps excepted, affords 
so extensive a prospect. Sunrise 
is the best time for the view, 
for which reason the traveller 
should arrange so as to spend 
the night on the top. It is, 
however, possible to make the 
ascent and to descend again to 
Fukura in one long day. The 
distance to the summit, which 
is considered to be 9 ri, is 
divided into three equal stages, 
of which the first 3 ri may be 
performed on horseback. The 
second takes one to the shed 
at Kawara-ishi, 4,800 ft. above 
the sea, where water and poor 
native food can be obtained, 
and where even in summer 
patches of snow may be seen. 
The third stage leads past the 
rim of an old crater, and over 
snow and volcanic scoriae to 
the present peak. Near the 
top are some sheds for pilgrims, 
and a small temple little better 
than a hut. The actual sum- 
mit rises 800 ft. above this point, 
and is reached by clambering 
over a wilderness of broken 
rocks and stones, the effect of 
some ancient eruption. 

The first recorded eruption took 
place in A.D. 861, and the last in 



472 



Route 74. — Ways to Akita. 



1861. Traces of its action may still 
be seen in the solfatara on the W. 
side of the mountain; but the up- 
heaval was an insignificant one, and 
the volcanic force of Chokai-zan is 
evidently becoming extinct. 

From the summit the eye 
wanders over the entire range 
of mountains dividing Ugo 
from Rikuchu, and over those 
, of Nambu beyond. Looking 
W. is the sea, with to the 
r. the long headland of Oji- 
ka. Opposite lies Hishima, 
and to the 1. Awajima and 
Sado. To the S. is the plain 
of the lower Mogami-gawa, 
bounded by the mountains of 
Uzen and Echigo, with the 
long slope of Gwassan in the 
centre. Most curious of all, 
as the first rays of light break 
through the darkness, is the 
conical shadow of Chokai-zan 
itself, projected on to the sea, 
and rapidly diminishing in 
size as the sun ascends.] 

The road now lies along the 
coast at the foot of Chokai-zan and 
Inamura-dake, as far as Shiokoshi, 
on the top of high cliffs overhanging 
the sea. The view of Chokai-zan 
varies constantly. From Shiokoshi 
to Eirazawa the coast is much 
broken up by small bays, whose 
entrances are guarded by rocky 
cliffs, and where small fishing vil- 
lages line the shore. 

Hotij«l (Inn, Komatsu-ya), for- 
merly the residence of a Daimyo 
named Rokugo, stands on the banks 
of the Koyoshi-gawa, at whose 
mouth is the small port of Furu- 
yuki. From this point onwards, as 
far as Akita, the coast extends in 
one long unbroken dreary line of 
sandy shore. The manufacture of 
salt from sea-water by a rough 
method is carried on here to a con- 
siderable extent; and in the month 
of May large quantities of hata- 
hata, a fish resembling the sardine, 
are caught with the seine. An in- 
ferior kind of lamp-oil is extracted 



from these fish, and the refuse 
employed as manure. At 

Araya, the Omono-gawa is cross- 
ed, to reach the prefectural town of 

Akita (see p. 474). 



ROUTE 74. 

Ways to Akita. 

The traveller bound for Akita has 
a choice of several routes, viz. 

1. By the regular tri- weekly 
steamers of the Nippon Yusen 
Kwaisha from Yokohama to Hako- 
date, in 2^ days, and thence to 
Tsitchizaki, the port of Akita, by 
smaller steamers, which run at 
intervals of from 4 to 10 days, and 
occupy 18 hrs. in making the pass- 
age. The distance from Tsuchi- 
zaki to Akita is 1 ri, 26 did. 

2. Rail from Tokyo (Ueno) to 
Kurosawajiri on the Northern Rail- 
way, in 17 hrs. ; thence by the fol- 
lowing itinerary, which is the most 
picturesque land route, some parts 
of it recalling the Aarthal. 

Itinerary. 
KUROSAWAJIRI to :— 

Ri. CM. M. 

Shitamura 3 18 8J 

Suginahata 3 31 9J 

Kawajiri 2 10 5§ 

Nonojuku 1 30 4f 

Yokote 5 30 14J 

AKITA (by itine- 
rary given in No. 
3, next page) . . 18 34 46£ 

Total 36 9 88J 

For Kurosawajiri see p. 458. The 
first part of the journey as far as 
Nonojuku is rough and moun- 
tainous. 

3. Rail from Tokyo (Ueno) to 
Sendai, in 12 hrs. Thence by road, 
the following being the 



Sendai to A lata. Mines of Innai. 



473 



Itinerary. 

SENDAI to :— Ri. Cho. 

Ayako 3 — 

Sakunami 4 — 

Sekiyama 5 34 

Tateoka 3 18 

Obanazawa 3 20 

Funagata 3 19 

Shinjo 2 12 

Kanayama 3 32 

Nozoki 4 11 

Innai 3 — 

Yuzawa 4 9 

Yokote 4 30 

Kakumagawa .... 3 18 

Omagari 1 25 

Hanatate 22 

Jinguji 1 2 

Kita Maruoka 27 

Kariwano 1 25 

Yodogawa 2 11 

Wada 3 12 

AKITA 4 — 

Total 65 3 



14J 



8* 
6f 

n 

10J 

hi 

8i 

M 

2* 
If 

4J 

5| 
81 
9| 



158| 



The road is practicable for jin- 
rikishas throughout. As far as 
Sekiyama, this route coincides with 
the first part of Eoute 72. At 

Tateoka (Inn, Ise-ya), the main 
road from Yamagata to Akita is 
joined. Not far from Tateoka lies 
Yamadera, with its old temples and 
fine landscapes. 

Skill jo (Inn by Ito Yunosuke), a 
quiet place, has a large trade in 
rice, silk, and hemp, but shows 
little outward evidence of prospe- 
rity. The style of buildings in this 
district and in those further to the 
N. differs entirely from that met 
with in central and southern Japan. 
Nearly all the houses are great 
oblong barns turned end-wise to the 
road, and are built with heavy 
beams and walls of lath and brown 
mud mixed with chopped straw. 
Bain-doors (ama-do), with a few pa- 
per windows at the top, replace the 
ordinary sliding screens (shoji) ; and 
as there are no ceilings to the rooms, 
the interior presents a very uninvit- 
ing appearance. Beyond Shinjo 
the road crosses a steep ridge into a 



singular basin, partly surrounded 
by thickly wooded pyramidal hills, 
at the foot of which lies the vill. of 
Kanayama. The next stage of the 
journey is through wild and pic- 
turesque scenery. Leaving the 
hamlet of 

^ozoki (good accommodation), 
the road descends along the head- 
waters of the Omono-gawa. The 
approach to 

Innai, as well as the road on to 
Yuzawa, is through an avenue of 
cryptomerias. The silver mines at 
Innai, first opened in the year 1599, 
were once the most productive in 
Japan. 

The following description, condensed 
from Dr. Rein, of the Japanese system 
of mining prior to the introduction of 
scientific European methods, may be of 
interest : — " The development of the mine 
and the excavation of ore were accom- 
plished solely by means of galleries or 
Ogiri, which went up or down, according 
to the direction of the lode, but were also 
run across the strata to effect an opening. 
The hauling out took place partly through, 
these passages, and partly through the 
so-called chimneys or Kemuri-dashi, 
which, however, are not to be confounded 
with shafts, these being then unknown 
to them. These Kemuri-dashi are not 
simple, smooth holes, leading directly to 
the depths below, but a peculiar arrange- 
ment of galleries, which rise and fall, 
twist about, grow wide or narrow, accord- 
ing as they encounter hard rock or non- 
metallic soil, or productive lodes and de- 
posits which may be excavated. In many- 
respects this resembles the clumsy, un- 
scientific method of mining among the 
Romans. But these employed captives 
and slaves, whereas in Japan, even to 
the present day, one part of this diffi- 
cult labour, the hauling out, is done 
by women and half-grown children. In 
the Roman and Carthaginian mines, 
windlasses at least lightened the labour ; 
but in Japan, all the material, ore 
or coal and waste earth, is carried to 
the surface in baskets or straw sacks 
on the back. The name, Kemuri-dashi 
(chimney) for these upper exit galleries, 
indicates also that they are used for 
ventilation. In like manner the lowest 
gallery serves principally to carry off 
the water of the mine, wherefore it is 
commonly called Midzu-nuki, water drain. 
In these mining operations no machines 
were employed, except very inadequate 
hand pumps; and the tools and other 
appliances were few in number. It is 
therefore surprising that they reached a 
depth of from 700—800 feet, and that the 



474 



Route 75. — From Akita to Aomori. 



galleries had a length, of 10,000 feet. In 
these operations, proper sledge hammers 
were altogether wanting. The work had 
to be done almost entirely with the help 
of the pickaxe, crowbar and steel wedge, 
and, in the absence of explosives, was 
necessarily carried on in a very limited 
space. Most of the galleries and short 
passages are therefore very narrow and 
low. * * * The water control belongs 
indisputably to the most primitive and 
inadequate arrangements of Japanese 
mines, being effected by means of a 
poor kind of hand-suction pumps, which 
are often quite insufficient, so that a mine 
frequently has to be deserted because 
the water becomes unmanageable. With 
these defects was often associated a 
system of mining by contract, which 
increased the planless plundering of 
the mines. * * * The preparation of 
the ores when brought to the surface is 
effected without machines, and falls into 
the hands of women and children exclu- 
sively. * * * For smelting all sorts of 
ores, the Japanese use a small, simple oven 
or smelting hearth, O-doJco or Fuki-doho 
(big,, or blast-bed), with a hand chest- 
bellows placed at its side. This ;is called 
Ofuigo and is worked by one man. One 
person is sufficient also for the smelting 
hearth. This hearth is a shallow pit, 12— 
15 cm. in depth, and 40 — 50 cm. in diame- 
ter. It has a floor 30 cm. thick, made of a 
cement of coal ashes and clay, stamped 
hard, resting in turn upon sand. The 
fire wall surrounding ihe pit is a basket 
work made of thin branches, and then 
covered close with mortar. Charcoal is 
the means of reduction in mixing the 
charge materials." 

Tokote (Inn, Kosaka) is a dirty 
town with a large trade in cottons. 
Omagari (Inn, Takenouchi). At 
Jingeiji (Inn, Hoso-ya), boats 
may be taken down the Omono- 
gawa to Akita. The current is 
swift, though there are no rapids ; 
and the journey of 42 m. may be 
comfortably accomplished in 9 hrs. 

Akita (Inns, Kobayashi, Toyo- 
kwan) is the capital of the prefec- 
ture of the same name. This town, 
also called Kubota, was formerly 
the seat of a Daimyo named Sa- 
take. Considerable trade is carried 
on here, and rice exported in 
large quantities to the northern 
parts of the Main Island and to 
Hakodate. The manufactures are 
striped tsumugi, or spun-silk cloth, 
and white chijimi. 

4. A road from Morioka (19 hrs. 



by rail from Tokyo) to Akita joins 
that given in No. 3 near Omagari. 
The whole distance _is 35 ri 8 cho, 
the itinerary as far as Omagari being 
as follows : — • 

MOEIOKA to :— Ri. Cho. M. 

Shizuku-ishi 4 10 10 J 

Hashiba 2 21 6£ 

To the border of 

the Prefecture .. 2 12 5| 

Obonai 2 23 6-J 

Kakunotate 5 11 13 

OMAGARI 4 35 12J 



Total 22 4 54 



ROUTE 75. 

Feom Akita to Aomoei. 

funakawa. back to akita by the 
coast. ascent of iwaki-san. 
Itinerary. 
AKITA to :— Ri. Cho. M. 



Tsuchizaki 

Shimo Abukawa . . 

Hitoichi 

Kado 

NOSHIEO 

Tsurugata 

Kotsunagi 

Tsuzureko 

ODATE 

Shirazawa 

Ikari-ga-seki 

Ishikawa . . 

HIROSAKI 

Namioka 

Shinjo 

AOMORI...- 



1 26 



4J 

9* 
5 
31 7 
31 14J 

3 5 
22 11J 

1 H 

13 10J 
21 6J 
28 11| 
19 8| 

14 5| 
4 26 11J 
4 14 lOf 
1 25 41 



3 32 

2 — 

2 
5 
2 
4 
3 
4 
2 
4 
3 
2 



Total 54 18 133 



Descending the r. bank of the 
Omono-gawa to Tsuchizaki, the 
road strikes north towards the 
shore of a large lagoon, called Ha- 
chiro-gata, whose greatest length 



Fimakaiva, Odate. Hirosaki. Iwaki-san. 



475' 



from N. to S. is 17 m., the breadth 
being about 7J m. The entrance 
on the S.W., by which it communi- 
cates with the sea, is only about 
150 yds. wide. 

[On the W. of the bay formed by 
the headland on the opposite 
side of the lagoon, lies the port 
of Fimakaiva (Inn by Moroi), 
near which are some remark- 
able rocks rising to 60 ft. in 
height, and in one place form- 
ing a natural bridge in the sea. 
Funakawa is 10 ri 28 cho dis- 
tant by road from Akita, pass- 
ing through Funakoshi, at the 
mouth of the lagoon, 6 ri 21 cho 
from Akita. Jinrikishas are 
available.] 

After leaving the lagoon at Kado, 
the road strikes across a rich plain 
extending from the sea-shore to 
the mountains on the r., and north- 
wards to - 

Nosliiro (Inn by Jinoshi) ; thence 
to Tsurugata on the Noshiro-gawa. 
From Tsurugata the road ascends 
the valley of the Noshiro-gawa to 

Odate (Inn by Hanaoka), where 
quantities of coarse lacquered ware 
are manufactured. Travellers com- 
ing from the opposite direction can 
descend by boat from Odate to Tsuru- 
gata. At Odate, the road again 
turns N. and crosses a range of 
hills, the slopes on the r. being 
grassy and bare of trees, while 
those to the 1. are covered with a 
dense forest. Numbers of horses 
are bred in this neighbourhood. 

Hirosaki (Inns by Ishiba, Nagai) 
was formerly the castle-town of a 
Daimyo whose territory included 
the district of Tsugaru, — a part of 
the present province of Rikuoku. 
The castle was destroyed some years 
ago, and its site is now occupied by 
barracks. Excellent apples grow in 
the neighbourhood. 

[On the coast, some 19 ri from 
Hirosaki, of which the first 10 
ri as far as Ajigasawa by jin- 
rikisha, lies Fuhaura, a place 



which is rising into importance 
- owing to its manganese mines, 
from 3,000 to 4,000 tons 
being produced annually. The 
road follows southwards along 
the coast through Noshiro (18 ri) 
to Akita, 15 ri more, practicable 
for jinrikishas.] 

On the W. of the town rises 
Iwaki-san 9 or the Tsugaru Fuji, 
so called on account of its similarity 
in shape to the famous mountain of 
that name. One of the best views 
of this peak is enjoyed by the travel- 
ler as he approaches Hirosaki from 
the S., when the mountain makes 
its appearance in a N.W. direction. 
Its solitary grandeur equals, if it 
does not surpass, that of the loftier 
cone after which it is named. The 
ascent is made from Hyakusaiva? 
about 3 ri from Hirosaki, at the 
south foot of the mountain, where 
stands a temple whose priest will 
furnish guides for the trip. The 
season at which pilgrims make 
the ascent is strictly limited ; 
but travellers will find no diffi- 
culty in obtaining the necessary 
permission at any time, by making a 
small pecuniary offering. At a height 
of 4,100 ft. lies an oval crater, about 
100 yds. wide, containing a small 
pond. To reach the highest peak 
of all, 4,650 ft. high, entails two steep 
clambers over boulders and loose 
gravel. Scattered over the summit 
lie numerous huge andesite boulders. 
The top is extremely steep, a fact 
apparently due in large measure to 
the washing away of ejectamenta, 
which has left only the solid 
rock. Notwithstanding the great 
degradation that has taken place 
upon the upper part of this moun- 
tain, its general form and the* exis- 
tence of beds of pumice indicate 
that it has been in a state of eruption 
during periods which, from a 
geological point of view, are quite 
recent. The ascent and descent can 
be easily accomplished in 5% hours. 

From Hirosaki the road leads 
across a plain cultivated with rice, 



476 



Route 76. — Lake Towada. 



beyond which it ascends a range 
of hills known as T sugar u-zaka, 
the top of which commands a 
magnificent view of the surrounding 
country. To the N. and N.E. lies 
the bay of Aomori looking like a 
huge lake; on the E. rise the 
mountains of the central chain that 
forms the backbone of the Main 
Island ; to the N.W. are the penin- 
sula of Mimmaya and the valley of 
the Iwaki-gawa ; on the S.W., Iwa- 
ki-san and the town of Hirosaki ; 
and on the S., the mountains that 
divide Tsugaru from Akita. Des- 
cending a narrow valley, the road 
shortly issues on the coast, and 
reaches 
Aomori (see p. 461). 



EOUTE 76. 

Lake Towada. 

This beautiful lake, 1,500 ft. above 
sea-level, lies 15 ri W. of Sannohe 
on the Northern Eailway, of which 
distance the first 3 ri to Takko (Inn 
by Ogata) can be done in jinrikisha; 
the rest must be walked or ridden. 
One may sleep at the Taikomori 
Farm-house, 2 ri beyond Takko, and 
at Yasumiya on the E. shore of the 
lake. The rough mountain paths 
lead up over moorland and through 
finely timbered country. It is a dis- 
tance of 1\ ri across the lake by boat 
from Yasumiya to the poor mining 
village of Towada, where small 
quantities of gold, silver, and copper 
are produced. 

[Kosaka, 6 ri S. of Towada, is a 
far more important mine, which 
has been worked from old 



times, and yields a little gold 
as well as much silver. Ani, 
still further to the south, pro- 
duces more copper than silver] . 

The road leads hence northwards 
to Edozawa, Ichi-no-w atari, Nika- 
mura, and Itadome, approximately 
2 ri distant from each other — the 
whole occupying one day, and the 
luggage being carried on bullocks' 
backs. The path is a succession of 
ups and downs, with one grand view 
backwards over the lake, and after 
that, scenery of the usual Japanese 
kind. Before the next stage, Kuro- 
ishi (Inn by Okazaki Morizo), about 
2 ri, where jinrikishas can be 
obtained, the mountains are sud- 
denly quitted, aud one enters the 
great rice-plain in which lies 
the important town of Hirosaki (see 
p. 475). The distance from Kuro- 
ishi to Aomori is about 9 ri, the 
main road .being joined at the vill. 
of Namioka. 

Should the traveller wish to 
approach Lake Towada from the 
west, the following itinerary of a 
mountain road from Odate (see p. 
475) will be found the best : — 

ODATE to :— Ri. Cho. M. 

Ogita 1 18 3f 

Otaki 1 23 4 

Junisho 17 1J 

Kemanai 3 4 7 j 

Oyu 1 30 4 £ 

TOWADA 5 — 12J 

Total .... 13 20 33 



There is passable accommodation 
at Ogita (Inn by Kobayashi), and 
at Kemanai_ (Inn by Osato) . The 
hamlet of Otaki possesses a small 
hot spring. 



SOUTH-WESTERN 
YEZO 












4.' V-i'''' ^VSAPPOKO '*'*'•'•"' ' 



-*' 1 / 



''^''', wiwiwxnt^f 



f 



tiZUv&nfiUjj 



f 



.«::::".,, -' 



^'™tll 



t - 



SECTION VIII. 



THE ISLAND OF YEZO 



(Routes 77—83, 




Route 77. — Hakodate and Neighbourhood. 



479 



EOUTE 77. 

Hakodate and Neighbourhood. 

1. general observations on yezo. 
2. hakodate. 3. walks near 
hakodate l yachigashira, the 
peak, goryo-kaku. 



1.- 



-General Observations on 
Yezo. 



No mention of Yezo is made in the 
earlier historical records, and it was pro- 
bably unknown to the Japanese until the 
period when the last of the Ainos, or 
Ainu, as they are called in their native 
tongue, were expelled from their ancient 
homes in the Main Island of Japan. 
Tradition asserts that Yoshitsune (p. 67), 
^a favourite hero of historical romance, 
found refuge here from the unnatural 
enmity of his elder brother ; and to this 
day his memory is revered by the simple 
aborigines. Later on Yezo was colonised 
and partly conquered by Takeda Nobu- 
hiro, to whose descendant, Matsumae 
Yoshihiro, the lordship of the island was 
granted in 160-1 by Ieyasu. Matsumae' s 
successors, whose seat of government 
was at the town of Matsumae, since re- 
named Fukuyama, continued to rule over 
the western portion of the island down to 
1868. From towards the end of the 18th 
century, the eastern half had, with the 
exception of a break from 1820 to 1854, 
been administered by officials of the Sho- 
gunate. During the civil troubles of 186S, 
Admiral Enomoto took the Shogun's fleet 
up to Yezo, captured Hakodate and Matsu- 
mae, and proclaimed a republic, but 
was forced to capitulate in the following 
year. After the overthrow of the Toku- 
gawa family and the consequent media- 
tisation of the Daimyos, Yezo was placed 
under a special department of the new 
government, entitled KaitakusJii (Colo- 
nisation Commission), and henceforth 
was regarded as a part of Japan proper. 
It received the designation of Hokkaido, 
or North Sea Circuit, and was divided 
into nine provinces. Yezo had been 
formerly resorted to by the northern 
Japanese chiefly for the sake of the 
fisheries ; but attempts were now made to 
induce natives of other parts of Japan to 
migrate thither as agricultural settlers, 
•and with the aid of a number of Ameri- 
can employes, headed by General Capron, 
public works were commenced on an ex- 
tensive scale with the object of develop- 
ing the resources of the island. After 
large sums had been expended without 
adequate return, the more ambitious of 
these schemes were abandoned in 1881, 
the Kaitakushi being dissolved, and the 
government of the island assimilated to 



the prefectural system of the rest of the 
empire. By a further change, in 1886, the 
prefectures were abolished, and an in- 
dependent local administration called 
the Hokkaidd-Cho was established, having 
its seat at Sapporo, the present capital. 
The chief ports of Yezo are Hakodate, 
Mororan, Kushiro, and Nemuro on the 
S.E. coast, and Otaru, not far from Sap- 
poro, on the west. The interior is still for 
the most part covered with virgin forest, 
rarely penetrated except by the aboriginal 
Ainos in quest of bears and deer. 

The characteristics of Yezo, both 
natural and artificial, differ in many- 
respects from those of the Main Island of 
Japan. The climate is colder, the country 
newer, the people less polished and more 
independent. Few if any old temples or 
other historical monuments exist; but 
there are interesting remnants of the 
Aino race, which once peopled not Yezo 
only, but a great portion of Northern 
Japan. In many places, too, relics of the 
stone age, which for this island has only 
recently passed away, are to be met with. 
The Aino villages most easy of access 
are Yurappu and Oshamambe on the 
shore of Volcano Bay, and Horobetsu and 
Shiraoi, on the Sapporo-Mororan Railway; 
but the race and its customs exist here in 
a less pure state than in the remoter dis- 
tricts of the north. 

Zoologically, Yezo belongs to a different 
sub-region from Japan proper, the deep 
Straits of Tsugaru forming what is called 
" Blakiston's line," from the name of the 
late Captain T. W. Blakiston, R.A., whose 
researches are well-known to science. On 
the Yezo side of this line there are no 
pheasants and no monkeys, while there 
is a species of grouse ; the bears are of a 
different species from those found on the 
Main Island. Yezo is also remarkable 
for the number of its singing birds. 
There are numerous other divergences 
both in the fauna and flora, adding their 
testimony to the fact that Yezo and the 
Main Island, though so close to each 
other, have been separated during long 
geological ages. The chief productions 
are herrings, salmon, iwashi, beche-de- 
mer, fish manure fnishin no kasuj, and 
above all kombu (or kobn), a broad, thick, 
and very long species of seaweed, which 
forms a favourite article of diet not only 
in Japan but in China, to which latter 
country large quantities are exported. 

For six months of the year Yezo is under 
snow and ice, the snow averaging about 2 
ft. at Hakodate, and from 6 ft. to 8 ft. in the 
N. and W. of the island. The lowest read- 
ing of the thermometer at Hakodate 
during the past thirteen years has been 
5°. 5 Fahrenheit. On the other hand, the 
second half of July and the first half of 
August are intensely hot, mosquitoes are 
very troublesome, and there is an ad- 
ditional pest of gadflies (obit), whose at- 
tacks are so violent that it is necessary 
to keep both face and hands well-protect- 



480 



Route 77. — Hakodate and Neighbourhood. 



ed when riding about the country. The 
best time for visiting Yezo is from the 
middle of May to the middle of July, and 
from the beginning of September to the 
beginning of November. The scenery of 
the island, though less striking than that 
of Japan proper, has a charm of its own 
and a certain resemblance to North-Cen- 
tral Europe. There is good salmon fishing 
in several places during the month of 
June, and snipe and duck shooting in 
the autumn, with occasionally a bear — not 
the brown bear of the Main Island, but a 
larger species resembling the grizzly. 

There are comparatively few good 
roads, the inns are often far apart, and 
jinrikishas and carriages are met with 
only in a few districts. Most journeys are 
performed in the saddle, horses being very 
numerous, though not particularly good 
or cheap. The usual charge for hire is 
from 12 to 20 sen a ri. 

The Japanese inhabitants of Yezo are 
a mixed community, being chiefly settlers 
from one or other of the northern pro- 
vinces. The consequence is that there 
is no special local dialect, but only 
a general use of various northern patois. 
The traveller acquainted with the 
standard Japanese language, as spoken 
in Tokyo, will do well to remember that 
i is constantly changed into w, and is 
sometimes dropped altogether. Thus, 
when he hears matsu and mizu (almost 
wi'dz), he must understand vnachi and 
michi. Nu rii (almost n f r') means ni ri, 
two ri. In fact, the northern people 
seem to try to speak without opening 
their mouths. The population of Yezo 
numbers 314,000, of whom 15,000 Ainos. 

2. — Hakodate. 

Hakodate. 

Inns. — Kakujo, Chigai - sangi, 
Kito. 

Restaurants. — [European dishes) 
Goto-ken, in Suehiro-chd ; Kyodo- 
kwan in the Public Gardens. 

Stores. — Kanemori, Imaichi, and 
Kaneni, all in the main street. 

British Consulate, on the hill. 

The town clusters at the foot of 
a bold rock, often compared to 
Gibraltar and known to foreigners 
as Hakodate Head, whose summit, 
locally called "the Peak," is 1,157 
ft. high. Among the largest build- 
ings are the Japanese Club, Public 
Hall, and Naval School. The num- 
ber of foreign residents — chiefly mis- 
sionaries — is small, and the town, 
notwithstanding its growing size 
and prosperity, is of little account 
as a port for foreign trade. At the 



west end stands a fort dismantled 
several years ago. Water-works 
were constructed in 1889. The water 
is conveyed in iron pipes from the 
river Akagawa, 7 m. distant. 

There is regular communication 
with Yokohama every three days 
by the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha 
steamers. Occasionally steamers 
run down the West Coast to Akita 
and Niigata. There is also con- 
stant communication with the other 
ports of Yezo, and with Aomori on 
the mainland. 

3. — Walks neab Hakodate. 

To the Public Gardens and Ya~ 
chigashira. The Public Gardens, 
on the E. outskirts of the town, 
contain a small Museum (Haku- 
butsu-kioan). Yachigashira (often 
mispronounced Yatsugashira) is 
the name of a picturesque dell 
lying a little further on, which, 
besides being a pleasant walk, 
offers the attraction of a good 
restaurant called Asada-ya, situated 
in its own grounds and command- 
ing a fine view. The Shinto tem- 
ple of Hachiman is also prettily 
placed on the hillside. The vil- 
lage on the near sea-shore seen 
from here is Shirisawabe, passing 
through which a walk of about J m. 
may be taken to a spot known to 
foreigners as East Point, just at the 
back of which stands a curious 
arched rock. 

The walk up the Peak takes about 
J hr. from the end of the town. 
There are numerous narrow paths 
leading to the summit, whence an 
extensive view is obtained, em- 
bracing S.E. Shiokubi, distant 13 
m. (Cape Blunt on the charts), and 
the volcano of Esan beyond, bear- 
ing E. by N., 22J m. Lying nearly 
N. rise Yorozu-yama, 12 m., and 
next the volcano of Koma-ga-take, 
22 m. ; Nanae, Arikawa, etc., are 
across the bay. Also across the 
bay to the W. lies Moheji, a pretty 
village with a small river running 
through it, and a lighthouse stand- 
ing on a prominent rock, N.W. of 



Route 78. — Excursions from Hakodate. 



481 



the Peak. Distant 28 m. is a 
mountain called Nigorigawa-yama. 
Behind Moheji, distant 13 m., is 
Karasu-dake, while to the S.W. 
rises Shiriuchi-dake, 22 m. The 
high land on the other side of the 
straits is plainly visible, with, on a 
clear day, Iwaki-san to the S.W. 
of Aomori. 

In the opposite direction, name- 
ly, turning out of the main street 
to the r., a walk or ride may be 
taken past the gaol and barracks to 
a fort called Goryo-kaku. This dis- 
used fort, erected in the latter days 
of the Tokugawa regime, stands 
about 4 m. from the town. The moat 
affords excellent skating, the ice 
being planed and swept. When it 
is about 12 inches thick, it is cut 
and exported to the southern ports. 



EOUTE 78. 

excuesions fkom hakodate. 
1. yunokawa. 2. the lakes. 3. as- 
cent of koma-ga-take. 4. esan. 
1.— (Shimo) Yunokawa. 

Distance, 1 ri 30 cho (4J m.) by 
jinrikisha or basha. 

Yunokawa (Inns, Sen shin -k wan, 
Yosei-kwan, Kakudai) is a pleasant 
place, owing to its pure sea air, 
its hot springs, and the pretty walks 
in the neighbourhood, especially 
one to Yunosawa, less than a ri 
inland. The large building r., about 
half-way between Hakodate and 
Yunokawa, is a convict prison. 

2. — The Lakes. 

Distance, 7 ri 5 cho (17 m.), pass- 
ing through Nanae which is 4 ri 
from Hakodate. 

The favourite holiday resort in 
the neighbourhood of Hakodate is 
that known to foreigners as " the 
Lakes." The two principal lakes 
are named respectively Junsai-numa 
(or Konuma), and Qnnma. They 
lie not far from the base of the 
volcano of Koma-ga-take. Their 
shores are covered with luxuriant 



vegetation, while the islets furnish 
objective points for those who may 
wish to go out boating. The lake 
fish can be taken with a worm, but 
will not rise to the fly. Konuma 
contains prawns of a very delicate 
flavour. Junsai-numa takes its 
name from a species of lily (Limnan- 
themum peltatum), which is consi- 
dered a delicacy and brought in 
great quantities to Hakodate. No 
place in Yezo affords so good a 
field to the entomologist, especially 
if lepidoptera be the object of his 
search. 

The Lakes may be reached on 
horseback or by carriage. The 
charge for horses varies from $1.50 
to $3, while basha cost about $5. 
The drive to the hamlet of Junsai- 
mura, where it is best to stay, takes 
from 3J to 4 hrs. The only halting- 
place worthy of mention is Nanae, 
where an experimental farm may 
be seen. Three miles beyond Nanae 
the ground rises, and pretty glimpses 
of Hakodate Peak and the moun- 
tains on the mainland are occa- 
sionally obtained. At 

Jimsai-mura, there are two inns, 
both on the 1. side of the road. The 
drivers mostly patronise the first 
one, situated immediately at the 
foot of the hill ; but the semi-Euro- 
pean house further on, known by the 
sign of Maru-san, is the better of 
the two. Travellers, however, should 
bring their own provisions. Primi- 
tive boats for going out on the lake 
and equally primitive fishing-gear 
can be hired. It is a 10 min. walk 
hence through a_ pretty wood to the 
shores of Lake Onuma. 

3. — Ascent of the Volcano Koma- 
ga-take. 
Itinerary. 
HAKODATE to :— Ri. Cho. M. 

Togeshita 5 5 12£ 

Shikonoppe (a little 

way on) — — 

Yakeyama 3 18 8| 

Total 8 23 21 

This is the mountain whose sharp 



482 



Route 78. — Excursions from Hakodate. 



peak (in reality only the higher 
side of the wall of the crater) 
forms so conspicuous an object 
from Hakodate. It lies nearly due 
N. of the town, and is reached by 
the road mentioned in Excursion 
2. The two trips should be com- 
bined, the night being spent at 
Junsai-mura. Accommodation of 
an inferior kind may be procured 
a little further on, at SMkonoppe, 
and also at Yaheyama at the very 
base of the mountain. From Jun- 
sai-mura the expedition can easily 
be made in 6 hrs., including stop- 
pages ; and many will prefer to 
make it at night, in order to wit- 
ness sunrise from the summit. For 
this purpose the carriage brought 
from Hakodate should be kept, so 
as to drive on as far as Yakeyama, 
i hr. of uninteresting road. Here 
horses are mounted, which, toge- 
ther with a guide, should be sent 
on ahead ; and 1 hr. ride through 
a thick growth of underwood and 
of grasses that overtop the riders' 
heads, leads to the place where it 
is necessary to dismount. It is 
another hour's walk over sand and 
volcanic detritus to the lip of the 
crater, which commands a fine 
view of Volcano Bay on the one 
hand, and on the other of the 
Lakes, behind which Hakodate Bay 
and even the town and shipping can 
be distinguished. To the 1. towers 
the wall of rock forming what looks 
like a peak from most points of 
view. The ascent of it, though 
not impossible, has rarely been at- 
tempted. Traces of vegetation are 
found up to the very summit. On 
the way up there is a little platform, 
said to be inaccessible, which sup- 
ports three curiously shaped stones 
popularly supposed to have been 
once the abode of a fabulous 
monkey (yaeri). Beneath and in 
front of the spectator lies the crater. 
To the r. is seen Yokotsu-dake, itself 
an old volcano, whose height is es- 
timated at 3,800 ft. 

Inside the crater a certain degree 
of activity is still displayed in the 



boiling pools; and care must be 
taken in treading on all circles or 
ridges of ground that rise slightly 
above the general level, as they 
are hollow and may give way. 
The descent to the place where 
the horses are waiting occupies only 
a few minutes. The height of Ko- 
ma-ga-take is 3,860 ft. There is no 
water on the way up. 

The last eruption of Koma-ga-take took 
place on the 22nd August, 1856, when all 
the neighbourhood of the present hamlet 
of Yakeyama (lit. " burning mountain") 
is said to have been denuded of trees. 

4. — The Volcano of Esan. 
Itinerary. 

HAKODATE to :— Ri. Cho. M. 

Shimo Yunokawa 1 30 4J 

Oyasu 3 10 8 

Toi 2 20 6£ 

Shirikishinai 2 10 5J 

Nidanai 2 16 6 

Todohokke (foot of 

Esan) 1 32 4| 

Total 14 10 34* 



This constantly active volcano, 
between 1,900 ft. and 2,000 ft. high, 
is the first point of the island of 
Yezo sighted on the voyage up from 
Yokohama. The journey thither 
from Hakodate may be performed on 
horseback in one day, but it is bet- 
ter to allow three days for the whole 
expedition there and back. If four are 
allowed, the following pleasant round 
trip may be made: — first to the Lakes 
and Koma-ga-take, and thence to 
Kakumi on the S. shore of Volcano 
Ba3^, where arrangements should 
be made for a boat to convey the 
party next day along the coast to 
Todohokke. 

The bold coast affords striking 
views, some waterfalls which leap 
over rocky ledges into the sea being 
especially beautiful. At Todohokke, 
which affords accommodation of 
the usual country type, a guide 
should be procured to lead the 
party up the mountain, whose 
summit will be reached after an 



Route 79,— From Hakodate to Fnhnyama. 



483 



hour's walk. The S. side of the 
crater-wall, by which the ascent is 
made, has been completely blown 
away ; the floor seethes with sol- 
fataras and springs of boiling water, 
and coDstant subterranean rum- 
blings are heard. The upper portion 
of the wall of the crater is of a 
bright yellow colour, and emits 
dense whitish fumes. 



ROUTE 79. 

From Hakodate to Fukuyama by 

Sea and Back by Land. 

Itinerary of Land Journey. 

FUKUYAMA to :— Bi. Clio. M. 

Yoshioka 3 25 9 

Fukushima . . 19 3 

Shiriuchi 7 — 17 

Kikonai 2 24 6J 

Izumisawa 1 34 4f 

Moheji 3 2 7J 

Kami-iso 2 15 6 

HAKODATE .... 3 4 7J 

Total 25 5 61J 

The quickest way to Fukuyama 
is by steamer, the passage occupying 
from 6 to 7 hrs. The other way is 
overland, and can be accomplished 
on horseback in 2 days. If the 
land journey be made from Hako- 
date, there is the advantage of being 
able to make sure of good horses, 
which by special arrangement may 
be taken through all the way. On 
the other hand, by taking the steam- 
er from Hakodate and returning by 
land, the risk of being steamer- 
bound at Fukuyama is avoided. 
Walking cannot be recommended, 
as there are numbers of streams to 
ford. 

Fukuyama, formerly called Ma- 
tsumae {Inn, Ueno Sukekichi ; those 
who intend to stay more than one 
day are recommended to arrange 



for accommodation at the Sado-ya? 
a clean, quiet, and prettily situated 
restaurant, standing on the hill 
behind the town, not far from 
the castle and commanding a good 
view of the sea), is situated on 
the coast to the S.W. of Hakodate. 

As long as the city was the seat of the 
lords of Matsumae, almost all the trade 
of Yezo passed through it, and travellers 
were obliged to come here to obtain pass- 
ports before proceeding to other points. 
But a fatal blow was dealt to its pro- 
sperity by the destruction of property 
which accompanied the civil war of 1869, 
and by the retirement of the Daimyo to 
Tokyo when the feudal system was 
soon afterwards broken up. It has been 
further injured by the growth of Hako- 
date; for Fukuyama possesses no harbour, 
merely an open roadstead. As usual in 
provincial Japanese capitals, the castle 
was built on an eminence overlooking the 
town. All that now remains, besides the 
three-storied tower, is a portion of the 
apartments formerly occupied by the Dai- 
myo himself. The women of Matsumae 
are noted for their fair complexions and 
good figures. 

In 1880 the greater part of the 
area formerly occupied by the castle 
was converted into a small Public 
Garden. Outside of this garden, 
as well as of the former castle pre- 
cincts, stands a cluster of Buddhist 
temples, the remnant of a larger 
number which existed up to 1869. 
These were the finest temples in 
Yezo ; but only two are now worth 
visiting, viz. Kozenji belonging to 
the Jodo sect, and Ryu-un-in be- 
longing to the Soto sect, which 
latter has been the leading de- 
nomination in this district. Ko- 
zenji, which was founded in 1533, 
was the burial-place of the Dai- 
myos' consorts, and is remarkably 
handsome. In the court in front 
of it stands a large stone image, 
formerly the principal object of 
worship in a temple now destroyed, 
which was called after it Sehibu- 
tsu-do, i.e., " the Hall of the Stone 
Buddha." 

The return journey on horseback 
is a pleasant one. Horses may be 
taken through the whole way ; but 
there is no difficulty in obtaining 
relays at Shiriuchi, where a halt 



484 



Route 80. — From Hakodate to Esashi. 



should be made for the night. 
Leaving Fukuyama, the road passes 
through the hamlets of Ncmori and 
Osaiva, the islet of Benten-jima 
and the island of Kojima being seen 
to the r., while on the 1. are views, 
not only of Yezo, but of the coast of 
the mainland. At the hamlet of 
Araya the road strikes inland 
among beautifully green though 
treeless hills, and soon begins to 
ascend. The steep descent to the 
hamlet of Rehige is called the Yo- 
shioka-toge — Yoshioka being the 
general name for the surrounding 
hamlets. The bottom of this hill is 
1 ri from Fukuyama. Thence the 
path lies along the beach, com- 
manding good views of the sea and 
distant shores, Cape Yoshimo stand- 
ing out conspicuously to the 1. On 
leaving 

Fukushima, the path again 
strikes inland for many miles among 
the hills, which are here wooded ; 
but there is a beautiful glimpse 
of the sea, with Iwaki-san in 
Nambu, from the top of the Fitku- 
shima-toge, \\ hr. beyond Fuku- 
shima. For the most part, the way 
lies over a sort of upland broken by 
gullies, the streams flowing through 
which have almost all to be forded. 
To the r. is occasionally seen Sen- 
gen-dake, the highest mountain in 
this vicinity. At 

Sliiriuchi (Inn, Kanenaka), re- 
gular cultivation begins and the 
road improves. Most of the rest 
of the way to Hakodate is flat, and 
runs along the sea-shore. Accom- 
modation is procurable at the 
various villages through which the 
road leads. After passing Kikonai, 
the Treaty Limit of the port of 
Hakodate is reached. In the neigh- 
bourhood of Moheji bluff sandstone 
cliffs rise abruptly from the sea, 
and at a little distance it looks as 
if there would not be room to pass 
between the rocks and the water. 
The path joins the main road lead- 
ing to Mori 1 ri out of Hakodate. 



ROUTE 80. 

Fkom Hakodate to Esashi. 

Itinerary. 

HAKODATE to : - Ri. Clio. M. 

Onomura 4 13 10J 

Nakayama 4 18 11 

Uzura 4 13 11 

Gamushi 2 18 6 

ESASHI 3 20 8| 

Total 19 15 47J- 



The whole distance may be done 
by basha in 1 day, when the road 
is in good repair. 

Starting from Hakodate and pass- 
ing through Kameda, the traveller 
turns off 1. to 

Onomura (Inn, Kakudai), and 
thence gradually a f scends for a dis- 
tance of 4 ri till the top of the pass 
is gained. From the summit a 
good view of Tengu-take, marked by 
three fir-trees, is obtained, and the 
ride to the village of Uzura may 
be accounted one of the prettiest 
in Yezo. The road winds in and 
out between steep cliffs above a 
foaming river, while the bold rocks 
and mountains recall the scenery of 
British Columbia. 

Nakayama (Inn, Kanesho). From 

Uzura (Inn, Miura-ya) a path 
diverges to the 1. across a river to 
the vill. oiTate, 2J ri distant, once 
a residence of the Daimyo of 
Matsumae, but dismantled in the 
rebellion of 1868, only portions of 
the wall being now visible. The 
land in this district is among the 
most fertile in Yezo. 

Gamuslii (Inn, Oyama-ya). 

Esashi (Inns, Minami-ya, Kakui) 
is an old-fashioned town of 14,000 
inhabitants, with a harbour unfor- 
tunately too much exposed. It 
nevertheless shares in the new pros- 
perity of all this part of Yezo. 
Fine views can be obtained from 
the high cliffs behind a Buddhist 
temple. 



Route 81. — Otaru, Sapporo, and Volcano Bay. 



485 



ROUTE 81. 

Otaru, Sapporo, the Hokkaido 
Railway, and Volcano Bay. 

voyage to otaru. [yoichi and 
iwanai; across country to 
oshamambe.] sapporo. excur- 
sions from sapporo. rail to 
mororan. volcano bay. 

This trip includes some of the 
best portions of Yezo, and will show 
the traveller within the limits of a 
week or 10 days as fair a specimen 
of the island — its scenery, its modern 
improvements, and aboriginal Ainos 
— as it is possible to compress with- 
in so short a time. 

Good steamers leave Hakodate 
for Otaru every fourth day, the pass- 
age taking 20 hrs. in fine weather. 
While passing through the Tsugaru 
Straits, where the main current 
always runs towards the E., the 
steamer hugs the cliff-bound coast 
of southern Yezo. Four hrs. from 
Hakodate it passes the castle-town 
of Fukuyama, formerly called 
Matsumae, for centuries the resi- 
dence of the Daimyos by whom the 
island was ruled. Ahead are seen 
the volcanic islands of Oshima and 
Kojima, and to the S., on the main- 
land of Japan, Iwaki-san, often 
called the Tsugaru Fuji from its 
beautiful logarithmic curvature. If 
the steamer leaves Hakodate at 
2 p.m. (the usual hour of sailing), she 
will sight the island of Okushiri 
before nightfall, and by morning 
will have passed Sail Bock and 
the shrine on the cliff to which 
junks make obeisance by lowering 
their sails, and will have rounded the 
high cliffs of Shakotan. From this 
point it is 28 m. to 

Otaru, properly Otarunai (Inns, 
Etchu-ya, Nakagawa. Europ. restt. 
Seiyo-kwan) . This Aino name means 
" the stream (nai) of the sandy (ota) 
road (ru)" The town is now, how- 
ever, entirely Japanese. Next to 
Hakodate it is the largest and most 
bustling place on the coast, the chief 



industry of its inhabitants being her- 
ring-fishing (nishin). The return 
steamers leave Otaru for Hakodate 
at noon. The only evidences of the 
former Aino occupation of the place 
are flint implements and frag- 
ments of pottery imbedded in the 
soil, and possibly some scribbling on 
a rock in a suburb called Temiya. 

This rock has terribly perplexed the 
learned. To begin with, are the inscrip- 
tions really inscriptions at all ? If so, are 
they of Aino origin— but then it is almost 
certain that the Ainos never knew aught 
of writing ? Or are they not rather 
cognate to " Bill Stumps his mark ? " A 
few years ago the authorities caused a 
shed to be erected over the rock in ques- 
tion, but not till the weather had exer- 
cised so disintegrating an influence on it 
that there is now little left to argue about. 

[There is a fair road from Otaru 
W. along the coast to YoicM 
(Inn, Yamato), 5 ri 20 did, 
whence a very pretty mountain 
road leads across the neck of 
the peninsula to Iwanai (Inn, 
Nanka Kohachi), 11 ri 30 did, 
on to Suttsu, 11 ri, and right 
round the south-western coast 
of the island to Hakodate. 
The way as far as Suttsu, is, 
with the exception of the noted 
Raiden-toge between Iwanai 
and Suttsu, mostly practicable 
for basha. Snow often lies on 
the Raiden-toge over 20 ft. deep. 
The rapid growth of the villages 
on this side of the island has 
been due to the exceptional 
prosperity of the fishing in- 
dustry. 

Shortly before reaching' Set- 
tsu, at the hamlet of Sakai, 
one may strike off in a southerly 
direction to Oshamambe on Vol- 
cano Bay, a distance of another 
10 ri practicable for baslia. 
Decent accommodation may be 
had at Notto, Arito, and Osha- 
mambe. The most beautiful 
object on the road is the is- 
olated cone of Shiribetsu. From 
Oshamambe the carriage road 
continues on to Mori (see p. 
487), and Hakodate], 



486 



Route 81. — Otarn, Sapporo, and Volcano Bay. 



Hokkaid5 Railway. 



© 


Names 




III 


of 


Remarks. 


r s 


Stations. 






OTARU (Temi- 




Miles. 


ya). 




1^ 

A 4 


Sumiyoshi. 




5 


Asari. 




10| 


Zenibevko. 




15| 


Karugawa. 




19% 


Kotoni. 




22 


SAPPORO. 




25* 


Shiraishi. 




28^ 


Atsubetsu. 




33 


Nopporo. 




35 


Ebetsu. 




40f 


Horomui. 


/'Branches to 




Sorachifuto, 


47J 


Iwamizawa Jet. . 


1 Poronai, and 
I k u s h u m- 


58i 


Kuriyama. 


v betsu. 


61| 


Yuni. 




71 


Oiwake Jet 


j Branch to 
( Yubari. 


93| 


Tomakomai. 




100| 


Shiraoi. 




118| 


Noboribetsu (To- 
betsu). 




122f 


Horobetsu. 




130f 


MORORAN. 





The railway journey from Otaru 
to Sapporo occupies 2 hrs. The 
rolling stock is American, and the 
line is said to have been built more 
cheaply than any other in the 
world. The scenery is pretty for 
the first few miles, the railway 
being hemmed in between bold cliffs 
and the sea. The plain surround- 
ing the mouth of the river Ishikari 
is then crossed, and the rest of the 
way runs across flat, marshy coun- 
try, covered with trees and tall 
rank weeds, to 

Sapporo (Hotel, *H6hei-kwan, 
originally intended for an Imperial 
Palace ; only the four rooms on the 
lower floor are generally avail- 
able, but distinguished visitors may 
obtain permission to occupy the 
upper storey ; Japanese Inns, *Ya- 
magata-ya, Asahi-kwan). 

This, the capital of the island, did not 
grow up naturally like Matsumae in old 
times and Hakodate in more recent days, 
in obedience to the requirements of trade. 
It was created by official fiat in the year 



1870, and depends for its prosperity chief- 
ly on the public institutions established 
there, notably on the Agricultural College 
which is the last remnant of the Kai- 
takushi, or Colonisation Commission, and 
on the Military Colony (Tonden-hei) in the 
adjoining country. The salmon and 
trout fishing for which Sapporo was for- 
merly noted, has been a good deal spoilt 
by the establishment of mills ; but 
there is snipe and duck shooting in the 
autumn. Few, if any Ainos, are now to 
be seen in the neighbourhood. 

The Museum, standing in grounds 
that resemble an English park, con- 
tains specimens of Aino work, stone 
implements, and ornithological and 
other collections. Adjacent to the 
Museum is a botanical garden. 
There are also saw-mills and flour- 
mills, sugar, hemp, and flax facto- 
ries, a brewery, and an establishment 
for making wine, besides small 
theatres and various other places of 
amusement. 

The pleasantest walks near Sap- 
poro are : — 

1. To the Nakajima Yuenchi, a 
pleasure park, with boating on the 
lake, J hr. from the inns. 

2. To the horse-farm of Makoma- 
nai. 

3. To the top of Maruyama, 
whence there is a fine view of the 
plain surrounding Sapporo, and of 
the Ishikari which is the longest 
river in Japan. 

The best longer excursions are :-* - 

4. On foot or by jinrikisha to 
Kariki, distant about 1 ri. There w 
take a dug-out canoe, and drift 
down to Ebetsu, spinning or fly- 
fishing on the way. Return in the 
afternoon by train. 

5. By train to Poronai, to see the 
coal-mines and the convict prison. 
The convicts are employed in the 
mines, the output of which rose in 
the last year for which statistics 
are available ( 1891 ) to nearly 
143,000 tons. 

6. On horseback or by jinrikisha 
or carriage past the Makomanai 
horse-farm, and through Ishiyama 
on the river Toyohira to Jodankei r 
where there are hot springs and 
good fishing. Distance, 6 ri. 



Hokkaido Railway. Volcano Bay. 



487 



Leaving Sapporo, the railway 
first runs E. through forest land 
partially cleared, and crosses the 
Yubari-gawa at Ebetsu. 

Iwamizawa (Inn, Mitsuroku) is 
a growing place. 

[The branch line N. to Sorachi- 
futo, 25 m., is intended to be 
carried on to Eamikawa on 
the river Ishikari, 140 miles 
from its mouth.] 

The line now bends south through 
a dense forest, which continues 
the whole way to the coast and 
shuts out all view. 

Oiwake (Inn, Shimbo). 

[The branch line from this place to 
the Yubari Coal-mines, 26Jm., 
follows the windings of the 
Yubari-gawa lined by maple- 
trees, and affords pretty glimp- 
ses of waterfalls] . 

Tomakomai (Bins, Inouye at 
station, Mizushima, in the town) 
lies some distance from the railway. 

[A3 or 4 day's excursion may be 
made hence to Piratori, the lar- 
gest settlement of the southern 
Ainos. The way lies 10 ri along 
the coast to Sarufuto, whence 5 
ri up the Saru river. A good 
description of this interesting 
village is given in Miss Bird's 
Unbeaten Tracks in Japan, 
Vol. II.] 

The eye wearied with the mono- 
tony of the forest now welcomes 
the sight of the Pacific Ocean beat- 
ing in breakers on the coast ; and 
in early summer the wealth of 
lilies of the valley and other wild- 
flowers is astonishing. From here 
on to the end of the journey, 
Ainos and their huts may occasion- 
ally be seen. Some hot springs about 
1£ ri inland from Noboribetsu enjoy 
local celebrity. 

Horobetsu (Inn, Suzuki) is a 
mixed Japanese and Aino village, 
the centre for many years of the 
Christianising and civilising en- 
deavours of the Rev. John Bat- 



chelor, of the Church Missionary 
Society. The present railway station 
of 

Mororan lies 1 ri 27 cho (4 J m.) 
from the town (Inns, Maruichi, Ya- 
rn an aka), which is finely situated on 
a landlocked bay, but shut out 
from all view of the neighbouring 
volcanoes. It is noted for a large 
sea-shell — the hotate-gai, or Pecten 
yessoensis. The Japanese Navy has 
its chief northern depot here. There 
is a large Aino vill. 1 ri 20 cho from 
Mororan. 

Steamers leave Mororan daily for 
Hakodate and Aomori, generally 
late at night, also for 

Mori (Inn, *Yamaka), on the 
opposite side of Volcano Bay, taking 
3 hrs. for the passage. The journey 
hence to Hakodate is made via 
the Lakes, in basha over a heavy 
road, 11 J ri (28 m.). 

[Some might prefer, instead of the 
steamer, to take the coast road 
round the head of beautiful Vol- 
cano Bay. Several Aino villages 
exist in this secluded region. 
The best are at Mombetsu, Usu, 
and Abuta. An account of this 
route will be found in Miss 
Bird's already quoted book of 
travels ; but since her day it has 
been made passable for basha. 
The first stage of 6 or 7 ri 
from Mororan to Mombetsu is 
done by steamer, after which 
the itinerary is as follows : — 

NISHI MOMBETSU to :— 

Bi. Cho. M. 

Usu 2 25 6J 

Abuta 1 19 3| 

Rebunge 4 4 10 

Shittokari .... 5 16 13J 
Oshamambe . . 1 12 3jr 

Kuroiwa 5 3 12£ 

Yamakushinai . 4 22 llf 

Otoshibe 2 21 6| 

Ishikura 2 11 5£ 

MORI 1 27 4j 



Total 31 16 76£] 



488 Route 82. — South-East Coast and Southern Kariles. 



ROUTE 82. 

The South-East Coast and the 
Southern Kuriles. 

During the summer and autumn, 
the Nippon Yusen Kioaisha runs 
steamers up the S.E. Coast of Yezo, 
and there are also steamers be- 
longing to smaller companies. Oc- 
casional steam communication is 
kept up with Kunashiri and Iterup. 
Those who prefer to go up the coast 
by land can do so on horseback; but 
they are warned that there is little 
to compensate for the hardships on 
the way. In many places it is a 
scramble over rocks by the sea- 
shore, and at others over steep 
mountains. There are also six or 
seven large rivers to cross, which 
after rain are often impassable for 
several days. From Tomakomai, on 
the railway, to Nemuro is a distance 
of 74 ri, or 180 m. The chief places 
visited, whether the journey be made 
by land or by sea, are the ports of 
Kushiro, Akkeshi, and Nemuro. 

Kushiro (Inn, Kanekichi) has 
been made a " Special Port of Ex- 
port' ' for coal and sulphur. Fine views 
are here obtained of O-Akanand Me- 
Akan, two high mountains to the N. 

At no other place in Yezo are so many 
relics of the stone age to be found as at 
Kushiro. The hills in the neighbourhood 
are covered with hundreds of dwellings, 
which are attributed by some inves- 
tigators to the Koropok-guru, a race be- 
lieved by them to have inhabited Yezo 
before the Ainos. Several camps — or 
what have been considered such — are 
seen on the crests of the hills, as also- two 
or three well-formed earthen forts, one 
called Moshiriya near the river, and the 
others at Lake Harutori, about 2 m. from 
the town, where likewise is a modern 
Aino village. 

Alvkeslri (Inn, Chugenji) is noted 
for its oysters, there being whole 
reefs entirely composed of these 
molluscs. An oyster-tinning estab- 
lishment on the American plan has 
existed here for many years past. 

The coast between Akkeshi and 
Nemuro is remarkable for the per- 
sistently tabular aspect of the main- 
land and of the islands near it. Of 



the latter, the chief are ; 1. Yururi, 
r. Takashima and Ko-Takashima, 
mere low ledges of rock, in spite of 
their names which signify " Lofty 
Island," and " Small Lofty Island." 
The high far-off mountains to the 
1. are Me-Akan, O-Akan, the snow- 
sprinkled ranges of Menashi-yama 
and O-Menashi-yama, and ahead 
Eausu-zan and Chacha-nobori in 
the island of Kunashiri. 

Nemuro (Inn by Suzuki Zensuke) 
is a thriving town, and possesses an 
Agricultural College. The harbour 
is good, but freezes over completely 
in winter, the ice extending as far 
as the eye can reach. 

The Kueile Islands. 

The Kuriles, of which Kunashiri and 
Iterup are the two southernmost, derive 
their name from the Russian word 
Tcurity, "to smoke," in allusion to the 
numerous volcanoes which they contain, 
and stretch N.E. and S.W. all the way 
from Yezo to Kamtchatka. The Japanese 
name is Chishima, or "the Thousaud 
Isles." Originally inhabited by a shifting 
population of Ainos and perhaps men of 
some other native race, the Kuriles at- 
tracted the cupidity of the Cossacks who 
conquered Kamtchatka at the end of the 
17th century. At that time the islands 
swarmed with fur-bearing animals, now 
ruthlessly hunted to the verge of extinc- 
tion. Gradually the whole group passed 
under Russian sway, though the Govern- 
ment of Yedo always asserted its right to 
the southernmost portion of the chain. 
At last, by the treaty of St. Petersburg, 
concluded in 1S75, the Kuriles were for- 
mally ceded by Russia to Japan, in ex- 
change for the far more valuable territory 
of southern Saghalien, which till then 
had been claimed as a Japanese posses- 
sion. 

The China Sea Directory says : — 
"The fog in which these islands are 
constantly enveloped, the violent currents 
experienced in all the channels separat- 
ing them, the steepness of their coasts, 
and the impossibility of anchoring, are 
such formidable obstacles, that it tries to 
the utmost the patience and perseverance 
of the mariner to acquire much know- 
ledge respecting them. Making the Ku- 
rile Islands from the westward during a 
dense fog, it frequently happens that the 
clear sky overhead allows of the summits 
of some of the islands being seen over the 
fog. Such a glimpse to a stranger would 
have more the appearance of blue sky 
with a few light clouds (cirri) instead of 
a high mountain streaked with snow. 



Route 83. — Kushiro to Abashiri. Northern Yezo. 



489 



The vicinity of land in the neighbourhood 
of the Kurile Islands may frequently be 
known by the flocks of birds * * * * 
Seaweed is also met with in straggling 
patches like the ordinary gulf -weed, grow- 
ing thicker by degrees till near the land 
it resembles a large field of very thick 
and strong weed. This weed entirely 
surrounds all the islands ; and in collect- 
ing it, it has to be cut with a scythe." 

From Notsu-no-saki, the head- 
land stretching N.W. of Nemuro, 
to Tomari, the nearest port in 
Knnashiri, is a distance of 3 ri. 
From Nemuro it takes some 5 hrs. 
to reach Rausu, prettily situated 
on the seashore, 3 J m. to the E. of 
the solfataras, to work which is the 
object of having an establishment 
in this place. This part of the 
island is thickly wooded with coni- 
fers of various species, while ferns 
and flowering-plants form the under- 
growth. Bears abound. From a 
clearing in the forest we get a 
beautiful glimpse of the singularly 
shaped Chacha-nobori (7,900 ft.), a 
cone within a cone, the inner and 
higher of the two being — so the 
natives say — surrounded by a lake, 
while away to the N.E. the sulphur 
is seen boiling up at four distinct 
spots on the flank of Rausu-zan. 
There are also several hot springs 
and a hot stream. One of these 
springs bubbles up on the beach, 
near the settlement, by whose in- 
habitants it is used as a bath. At 
Ichibishinai, on the W. coast of the 
island, is a boiling lake called Ponto, 
which deposits on its bed and 
around its shores what appears to 
be fine black sand, but is practically 
nearly pure sulphur. The water of 
the lake is extremely acid. 

The chief port of Iterup, called 
Staten Island by the old Dutch 
cartographers, is Shana, on the N. 
side of the island. A road leads 
from Shana to another town at the 
N.E. extremity, about 65 m. 
distant, and there is also a road in 
the opposite direction for 50 m. 
Horses can be obtained for the 
greater part of these journeys. The 
interior of Iterup is covered with 
a forest, which can only be pene- 



trated by following up the water- 
courses. The streams are alive 
with salmon from August to Decem- 
ber, and bears are plentiful. 

In 1892, Lieut. Gunji, of the Japanese 
Navy, with a few followers, set sail in open 
boats from Tokyo to establish a colony on 
the uninhabited island of Shumshu, the 
northernmost of the Kuriles, only 8 miles 
from Kamtchatka. After much suffering 
and loss of men and boats on the way, 
a remnant of the party reached Iterup, 
where they still eke out a livelihood by 
fishing and hunting. 



EOUTE 83. 

From Kushiro to Abashiri and 
Northern Yezo. 

Itinerary (approximate). 

KUSHIRO to :— Ri. M. 

Toro 7 17 

Shibetcha 6 14§ 

Iwo-san 10 24^ 

Yamabetsu — — 

Abashiri 19 46J 

Total 42 102J 



A road running by the side of 
the river has been made from 
Kushiro to Shibetcha ; but if the 
traveller prefer, he can take passage 
in the steam launch which leaves 
daily. There is a fine lake, 6 ri 
in circumference, near Toro (Inn 
by Matsumoto), a village consist- 
ing of two or three Japanese houses 
and some twenty Aino huts. At 
Shibetcha (Inns, Daihei, Yokota), 
there is a convict settlement of 
about 1,800 prisoners ; also a 
steam factory for refining sulphur. 
Good salmon and salmon-trout fish- 
ing may be had here from July to 
October. A railway 24 m. long con- 
nects Shibetcha with the volcano of 
Atosa-noboriy or Iwo-san, that is 
"Sulphur Mountain" (Inn at sta- 
tion). It is intended for the transport 



490 



Route 83. — Kushiro to Abashiri. Northern Yezo. 



of sulphur from the mountain, but 
passengers also may get a lift. 

[Not following the railway track, 
but turning aside for a distance 
of 7 ri, the traveller reaches the 
hot springs of Seishikaga (fair 
accommodation). Four ri fur- 
ther on is another lake, called 
KucharOy 12 ri in circumference, 
with some islands containing 
hot springs. The lake is deep 
and clear, and affords good 
fishing.] 

Splendid views are here obtained 
of O-Akan, Me-Akan, and the sur- 
rounding country. The sulphur is 
of first-rate quality, and is exported 
in large quantities to America. 
From Iwo-san, the traveller de- 
scends to Yamabetsu on the sea- 
shore. There being no accommoda- 
tion here, it is best to hurry on to 

Abashiri (Inn, Ishiyama). Relics 
of the ancient pit-dwellers can be 
seen on the hills. 



One may return from Abashiri to 
Nemuro, via Shari and Shibetsu, by 
crossing the neck of the mountain- 
ous peninsula — a distance of about 
96 miles; but the accommodation, 
except at Shibetsu and Betsukai, 
is wretched, none of the places 
passed through offering better ac- 
commodation than Aino huts. 

Those desirous of exploring the 
N.E. coast of Yezo can do so by 
turning to the 1. at Abashiri, 
whence a road leads the whole way 
to Soya — a distance of 71 ri (173 
miles), near the N. extremity of the 
island. This journey, however, 
is monotonous in the extreme. 

It is now also possible to cross 
Yezo from Abashiri to Sorachifuto on 
the railway, by a road cut through 
the forest and giant grasses, 70 ri 
(171 m.). The only fair accommo- 
dation is at Asahi-kawa, 13J ri (33 
m.) from Sorachifuto in the district 
of Kamikawa, the old Aino Kamui 
Kotan, or the " Land of the Gods." 




GLOSSARY OF JAPANESE WORDS. 




the 



Ai-dono, a secondary deity to whom, 
in addition to the principal ob- 
ject of worship, a Shinto temple 
is dedicated. 

Ai-no-ma, see p. 34. 

Ama-inu and Koma-inu, one open- 
mouthed, the 
other with 
mouth clos- 
ed ; but opini- 
ons differ as 
to which is 
which (comp. 
p. 34). 

Ame, a sweetmeat, see p. 83. 

Ana, a hole, a cave, a crater. 

Ara-gaki, see p. 253. 

Asemi, a flowering shrub 
Andromeda japoiiica. 

Ayu (often pronounced ai), a species 
of trout — the Salmo altivalis. 

Bampei, a screen opposite a temple 
gate. 

Basha, a carriage. 

Bashi (for hashi in compounds), 
a bridge. 

Bijutsu, the fine arts. 

Bosatsu, a Buddhist saint (see p. 40). 

Bugaku, an ancient pantomimic 
dance : bugaku-dai, a stage for 
the performance of this dance. 

Buyu, a species of sand-fly. 

Cha, tea : cha-dai, tea-money (see 
p. 7) ; cha-no-yu, " tea ceremo- 
nies;" cha-ya, a tea-house (see p. 8). 

Cho, a measure of distance (see 
p. 6) ; a street. 

Chozu-bachi, a wash-hand basin, 
a cistern. 

Dai, big, great. 

Daibutsu, a colossal image of a 
Buddha. 

Daikon, a vegetable of the radish 
tribe, but much larger ; often 
pickled, and then malodorous. 



Daimon, the great outer gate of the 

grounds of a Buddhist temple. 
Daimyo, a feudal lord. 
Daishi, a great Buddhist abbot or 

saint. 
Darani, a mystic Buddhist formula 

or incantation. 
Do, a hall, a temple. 
Dori (for toriin compounds), a street. 
Ema, an ex-voto picture : ema-do, 

a temple building hung with such 

pictures. 
Fude, a Japanese peri. 
Fuji-mi Ju-san-shu, the thirteen 

provinces from which Fuji can 

be seen. 
Fusuma, sliding - screens covered 

with paper. 
Futago, twins. 
Futon, a bed-quilt. 
Gakkd, a school, a college. 
Ga, of. 
Gawa (for Jcawa in compounds), a 

river, a stream. 

Gejin, the outer chamber or nave of 
a Buddhist temple. 

Gin, silver : gin-zan, a silver mine. 
Go, an honorific 

prefix. 
Go, a measure 

o f capacity 

(see p. 6), and 

o f distance 

(see pp. 141 

and 413). 
Gohei, the em- 
blems in a 

Shinto temple 

of the ancient 

offerings o f 

cloth ; they 

are now usual- 
ly strips o f 

white paper. ' (gohei) 




492 



Glossary. 



Sho- 




Go-honsha, a Shinto shrine on the 

summit of a mountain. 
Gokd, a halo (round the head of a 

saint). 

Goma, a Buddhist rite in which a 
fire of cedar-wood is burnt, and 
prayers are offered : goma-do, a 
shrine for the performance of this 
rite. 

Gong en, an avatar (see p. 35). 
Go-reiya, a mausoleum (of a 
gun), 

Goslid-gurama, a prayer- 
wheel (see p. 110). 

Gwaimnsho, the Foreign 
Office. 

Gyogi-yaki, a kind of an- 
cient earthenware (see 
p. 55). 

Gydja, a pilgrim. 

Haiden, an oratory (see p. 

DO) . 

Hakkei, eight views (see 
p. 328). 

Hakubatsu-kioan, a mu- 
seum. 

Hama, the sea-shore. (prayeb- 

Hana, a nose, a promon- wheel) 
tory. 

Hara, moorland. 

Harakiri, suicide performed by 

ripping up the abdomen. 
Hashi, a bridge. 
Hashira, a pillar. 
Hatamoto, a vassal of the Shogun 

having a fief assessed at less than 

10,000 JcoJcu. 
Hatoba, a landing-place. 
Heiden, a building in which gohei 

are set up. 
Higashi, east. 
Hinoki, a conifer — the Chamcecy- 

paris obtusa. 
Hiragana, the running hand form 

of the kana, or Japanese syllabary. 
Hojo, the apartments of the high- 
priest of a Buddhist temple. 
Ho/ce-kyo, the name of a Buddhist 

scripture (Sanskrit, Saddharma 

Pundarika Siltra). 
Hombo, the chief building of a 

monastery, in which the abbot 

resides. 
Honden, see Honsha. 




Hondo, the principal building of 
a Buddhist monastery. 

Hongwanji, see p. 64. 

Honsha, the main shrine of a Shin- 
to temple— sometimes translat- 
ed " chapel." 

Hoshu-no-tama, a Buddhist emblem 
of uncertain 
significance, 
perhaps best 
identified with 
the nyo - i - rin 
mentioned on p. 
46. 

Honzon, the prin- 
cipal deity or 
image of a Bud- 
dhist temple. 

Hoto, a pagoda- (hoshu-wo-ta^a) 
shaped treasure-house. 

HotoJce, a Buddhist deity, also a 
dead person. 

Hozo, the treasure-house of a 
temple. 

Ichi, a fair. 

Ichd, the name of a tree whose 
leaves turn gold in autumn — the 
Salisbicria adiamtifolia, also call- 
ed GingJco biloba. 

Ihai, a funeral tablet. 

Ike, a lake, a pond. 

Ishi, a stone. 

Ita-ga7ci, see p. 34. 

Iiva, a rock : iwa-goya, a cave used 
for sleeping in ; iwaya, a cavern. 

Iwashi, a fish resembling the pil- 
chard. 

Ji (in temple names), see p. 37. 

Jigoku, lit. hell, hence a solfatara. 

Jikido, see p. 37. 

Jimme, a sacred horse. 

Jimusho, an office (of a temple, etc.). 

Jinja, a Shintd temple. 

Jinrikisha, a small light vehicle 
drawn by one or two men. 

Kaerumata (lit. frog's thighs), 
pieces of timber shaped like the 
section of an inverted cup, sup- 
porting a horizontal beam. 

Kago, a kind of small palanquin. 

Kagura, a Shinto religious dance: 
kagnra-do, a stage for its per- 
formance (comp. p. 39). 

Kaiclidy see p. 38. 



Glossary, 



49& 



(see 



Kaido, a highway. 

Kakemono , a hanging scroll — gen- 
erally painted. 

Kami, above, upper. 

Kami, a Shinto god or goddess. 

Kamo-aoi, the name of a plant — 
the asarum, whose leaf is the 
crest of the Tokugawa family 
(comp. Mitsu-aoi). 

Kana, the Japanese syllabary. 

Kanjiki, iron clamps (see p. 9). 

Kannuslii, a Shinto priest. 

Kara, China : Kara-mon, a gate in 
the Chinese style. 

Kaiva, a river, a stream. 

Kaivara, a stony river-bed. 

Ken, a measure of length 
p. 6). 

Ken, a prefecture : kencho, the head- 
office of a prefecture. 

Keyaki, a tree whose very hard 
wood is much 
prized — the Zel- 
kowa keaki. 

Ki ku-no-mo n, the 
Imperial crest 
of the chrys- 
anthemum. 

Kimon, see p. 104. 

Kin, gold. 

Kin, a Japanese pound (weight); 
see p. 7. 

Kirin, a unicorn. 

Kiri-no-mon, the Imperial crest of 

the leaf and flower 

of the Paullownia 

imperialis. 
Kita, north. 
Ko, a child ; (in com- 
pounds) small. 
Koenchi, a public ( KIEI ^o mon) 

park. 
Kogo, an empress. 
Koku, the standard measure of 

capacity (see p. 7). Incomes 

were formerly estimated in koku 

of rice. 
Koma, a pony. 
Koma-inu, see ama-inu. 
Kongo-kai, the name of one-half 

of the universe according to the 

Buddhist cosmology. 
Kori, a wicker basket (see p. 11). 
Koro, a drum-tower. 




(kiku no moist) 





(koshin) 



Koro, an incense -burner. 

Koshin, a triad of sacred monkeys 

(see p. 44). 
Kotsu - do, a 

temple con- 
taining the 

bones of a 

deceased 

saint. 
Koya, a hut. 
Koya-maki, a 

conifer — the 

Sciadopytis 

verticillata. 
Kit, an urban district : kncho, the 

chief official of a district. 
Kuchi, a mouth, an entrance. 
Kuda-tama, a small hollow tube 

formerly used as s~ — "->\ 

an ornament ( foj 

(comp. p. 106). V V 

Kunaisho, the Imperial Household 
Department. 

Kuni, a country, a province. 

Kuroshio, (lit. black brine), the 
Japanese Gulf Stream. 

Kuruma, a jinrikisha. 

Kiuairo, a gallery. 

Ktuaisha, a company, a society. 

Kwan, an important building, — used 
chiefly in names of hotels, public 
halls, etc. 

Ktuan, the legal unit of weight (see 
p. 7). 

Kwankooa, an industrial bazaar. 

Kyodo, a library of Buddhist sutras* 

Kyoku, a government office. 

Kyoryuchi, a " Foreign Concesssion" 
— that part of a Japanese city in 
which foreigners are permitted to 
reside. 

Kyudo, an old road. 

Machi, a street, a town. 

Maga-tama, an an- p^ ^^^ 

cient form of or- V ° ) 

nament (comp. p. \^^ J 

106). 

Makimono, a scroll (see p. 13). 

Mamori, a charm. 

Mandara, a Buddhist picture — 
generally on a large scale and 
depicting one-half of the mytho- 
logical universe. 



494 



Glossary. 




Manji (Sanskrit svastika), a mystic 
diagram, ex- 
plained by some 
as the sjmibol of 
luck, by others 
as the symbol 
of Buddhist eso- 
terics. 

Mannen-bashi, see p. 225. 

Maru, a word of unknown meaning 
used in the mimes of ships. 

Masu, a salmon-trout (Salmo japo- 
nicus). 

Matsu, a pine-tree. 

Matsuri, a religious festival. 

Meibutsu, the specialty for which a 
place is noted. 

Meisho, a celebrated place. 

Mi-harashi, a prospect, a view down 
and over. 

Mikoshi, a sacred palanquin. 

MiJcoto, a title applied to Shinto 
deities. 

Minami, south. 

Minato, a harbour. 

Mine, a mountain peak. 



Mitsu-aoi, three asa- 
rum leaves, — the 
crest of the great 
Tokugawa famity 
(comp. Kamo-aoi). 



Mitsu-domoe, a figure like that here 
represented. Its 
origin and sym- 
bolic import are 
alike matters of 
debate. Besides 
the treble form 
here given, there 
also exist a 
double form (futatsu-domoe) and a 
single one (tomoe). 

Miya, a Shinto temple, an Imperial 
prince or princess. 

Mizu-ame, a sweetmeat (see p. 83). 

Mokusei, the Olea fragrans — a tree 
having small, deliciously scented 
flowers of a reddish yellow colour. 

2Ionzcki, see p. 64. 

Moto, original, proper. 

Mura, a village. 

Murodo, a pilgrim's hut on a moun- 
tain side. 





Mushi-boshi, a general airing. 

Myojin, a Shinto deity. 

Nada, a stretch of sea. 

Naijin, the inner part or chancel of 
a Buddhist temple. 

NaTca, middle. 

Namtc Amida Butsu, an invoca- 
tion of the god Amida, used chiefly 
by the Monto sect. 

Namu Myolio Renge Kyo, see p. 62. 

Nashiji, aventurine lacquer. 

Nehanzo, a picture of the entomb- 
ment of Buddha. 

Nembutsu, a prayer to Buddha. 

Netsuke, see p. 13. 

Ningyo, a doll. 

Nippon, Japan. 

Nishi, west. 

No, of. 

No, a species of lyric drama. 

Noriinono, a palanquin. 

Numa, a marsh, a tarn. 

Nure-botoJce, see p. 96. 

Nuri(-mono), lacquer- ware. 

Nyorai, a Buddha (see p. 46). 

0, an honorific prefix. 

(in compounds), big. 

O-fuda, a charm inscribed with a 
text. 

OTcu, the innermost recess, behind : 
oJcu-no-in, see p. 38. 

Oni, a demon. 

Onna, a woman : onna-zaka, a wo- 
man's staircase (see pp. 84 and 98). 

Onsen, a hot spring. 

Orimono, woven stuff. 

OtoTco, a man : otoko-za/ca, a man's 
staircase (see pp. 84 and 98). 

Oya-shirazu Ko-shirazu, see p. 148. 

RaJcan, a class of Buddhist saints 
(see p. 47). 

Ramma, ventilating 
the ceiling of a 
beautifully carved. 

Renge, a lotus-flower. 

Ri, a Japanese league (see p. 6) 

RiTcyu, a sum- 
mer-palace. 

Bimbo j the 
wheel of the 
the law, used 
chiefly as an 
ornament in 
temples dedi- 
cated to Fudo. (rimboJ 



panels 
room — 



near 
often 




Glossary. 



495 



Bin, a copper coin worth y 1 ^ cent. 
Binzd, a revolving library (see p. 

112). 
Bonin, a vagrant samurai in the 
" service of no feudal lord. 
Byd or ryu, a dragon. 
Byobu Shinto, see p. 34. 
Saka, an ascent, a hill. 
Sakaki, the Cleyera japonica — the 

sacred tree of the Shintoists. 
Saki, a promontory. 
Sama, Lord, Mr., Mrs., Miss. 
Sammon, a large two-storied gate 

leading to a Buddhist temple. 
Sampan, a shore-boat. 
Samurai, two-sworded gentry, the 

retainers of a feudal lord. 
San (in compounds), a mountain, 

sometimes a temple. 
San, Mr., Mrs., Miss. 
San-ju-rok-ka-sen, see p. 105. 
San-kei, the three great sights of 

Japan, viz. Matsushima, Ama-no- 

Hashidate, and Miyajima. 
Saiua, a valley, a ravine, a swamp. 
Seki, a barrier. 
Sembei, thin biscuits of various 

kinds. 
Shake, a salmon. 

ShaJcu, a foot (measure) ; see p. 6. 
ShaJcuclo, the name of an alloy (see 

p. 14). 
ShaJcujo, a staff with metal rings 

carried by Buddhist priests (see 

p. 43). 
Shamusho, the business office of a 

Shinto temple. 
Shibu-ichi, the name of an alloy (see 

p. 14). 
Shichi-clo-garan, a complete set of 

Buddhist temple buildings. 
Shima, an island. 
Shimo, lower. 
Shindd, a new road. 
Shinto, the aboriginal religion of 

the Japanese (see p. 32). 



S h ipp 0-710- 
mon — ( lit. 
" enamel 
crest,") the 
name of a 
Japanese 
crest. 





Shiro, a castle. 

Shishi, a lion, a wild-boar. 

Shd, small. 

Sho, a measure of capacity (see p. 6). 

Shogun, see p. 51. 

Shdji, a sliding paper door which 
serves as a window. 

Shoro, a belfry. 

Shumisen, a fabulous mountain — 
the centre of the Buddhist uni- 
verse. 

Sotetsu, the Cycas revoluta — a tree 
resembling the sago-palm. 

Sotoba, see p. 38. 

Sugi, a cryptomeria. 

Suji-bei, or Suji- 
Tcabe, a species of 
striped wall or- 
namentation 
(see p. 64). 

Tachibana, a kind 
of orange. 

Tai, a kind of sea- 
bream — the Ser- 
ranus margina- 
lis. (suji-bei.) 

Taizo-Tcai, the name of one-half of 
the universe according to the Bud- 
dhist cosmology. 

Take, a peak. 

TaJci, a waterfall. 

Tama-gaJci, see p. 34. 

Tani, a valley. 

TeikoJcu, an empire. 



Tengu, a long- 
nosed goblin, 
often repre- 
sented with 
wings and 
supposed to 
inhabit the 
mountains. 



Tennin, a Buddhist angel, repre- 
sented without wings. 

Tennb, an emperor. 

Tenshu, a castle keep or donjon. 

Tera, a Buddhist temple. 

Tetsudo, a railway. 

To, a pagoda (generally go-ju no to, 
a five-storied pagoda). 

Toba-e, a kind of quaint coarse 
picture. 




496 



Glossary. 




Toge, a pass over mountains. 

Tokko (Sanskrit vajrd), a Buddhist 
symbol for 
whose ex- 
planation 
see p. 46. It 
has three 
forms in Japan, — of which the 
simplest resembles one spoke of 
the " wheel of the law " (see 
Bimbo, p. 494). The other forms 
of it are the three-pronged, or 
sanJco, here figured, and the five- 
pronged, or goko. 

ToJconoma, an alcove. 

Tori, a street. 

Torii, a Shinto gateway (seep. 34). 



m 



The left-hand 
illustration gives 
the Pure Shinto, 
that on the right hand the Byo- 
bu Shinto form of this structure. 
Toro, a stationary lamp or lantern 
of stone or metal. 



Tsubo, the unit of land measure- 

(see p. 6). 
TsuJca, a mound. 
Tsumugi, a coarse fabric woven 

from spun floss-silk. 
Tsuri-baslri, a hanging bridge (see 

p. 218). 
Tsuzure-ori, see p. 101. 
TJma, a horse : uma-gaeshi (see p. 

143). 
Umi, the sea, sometimes a lake. 
TJra, a stretch of coast. 
TJra, back, behind. 
Waraji, straw sandals (see p. 9). 
Ya (in compounds), house. 
Ya-daijin, see p. 34. 
Yadoya, an inn. 

Yama, a mountain, a hill. [p. 11). 
Yanagi-gori, a wicker basket (see 
Yashihi, a feudal mansion. 
Yashiro, a Shinto temple. 
Yatsu-mune-zu7curi, many-gable d — 

said of a roof. 
Yen, a Japanese dollar. 
Yolcan, sweet bean-paste. 
Yu, hot water. 
Zan (for san in compounds), a 

mountain, a hill. 
ZashiJci, a room, an apartment. 
Zeifcwan, a custom-house. 
Zuijin, see p. 34. 












INDEX 



(When there are several references, the most important is given first.) 



Aba, 421, 417. 
Abashiri, 490. 
Abekawa, 269. 
Abe - no - Sadato, 458, 

466. 
Aborigines, 51, 121. 
Aboshi, 383. 
Abo-toge, 235. 
Abt railway, 150. 
Abukuma-gawa, 452. 
Abuta, 487. 
Ada, 350. 
Adams, Will, 83, 293, 

296. 
Adanogd, 242. 
Adanogo-gawa, 233. 
"Aden," 289. 
Adoption, 58. 
Afuri-yama, 85. 
Agano-gawa, 200. 
Agari-toge, 468. 
Agatsuma - gawa, 154, 

156. 
Agematsu, 281 ; 243. 
Ageo, 148. 
Ago, 369. 
Agune, 441. 
Aigaeri, 437. 
Aikawa, 212. 
Aikawa-hama, 464. 
Ainos, 479, et seq. ; 65, 

68, 260, 452, 460, 262. 
Ai-no-take, 227 ; 226. 
Ai-oi-no-Matsu, 290. 



AKASAKA-TOGE 

Aitsu, 424. 
Aiya, 378. 

Aizen My6-6, 39, 46. 
Aizu, 199, 200 ; 105. 
Ajigasawa, 475. 
Ajina, 389. 
Ajiro, 134, 138. 
Ajisuki - taka - hikone, 

168, 169. 
Akabane 88, 148, 451. 
Akadake, 224. 
Akagawa (Shimotsuke), 

196. 
Akagawa (Yezo), 480. 
Akagi-san, 160 ; 149, 

180, 181. 
Akahani-yama, 197. 
Akahito, 53, 357. 
Akaishi-gawa, 229. 
Akakura (mines), 180. 
Akakura (Myokozan), 

209, 210. 
Akakura (Nyoho-zan), 

173. 
Akakura-dake, 460. 
Akama, 425. 
Akama-ga-seki, 392. 
Akamatsu-toge, 440. 
Akanagi-san, 173. 
Akano, 410. 
Akanoura, 416. 
Akanuma-ga-hara, 176. 
Akao, 230. 
Akaoka, 409. 
Akappori, 173. 
Akasaka, 98. 
Akasaka-toge, 240.* 



Akasawa (Lake Kawa- 

guchi), 223. 
Akasawa (Minobu), 220, 

225. 
Akasawa-yama, 275. 
Akashi, 290, 381, 382. 
Akatsuka, 211. 
Akayu, 469. 
Akazu, 244. 
Akechi, 231. 
Akechi Mitsuhide, 61, 

325, 352. 
Aki (province), 388. 
Aki (Tosa), 409. 
Aki Fuji, 388. 
Akiha-sau, 270; 230. 
Akita, 474 ; 472. 
Akkeshi, 487. 
Akutami, 233. 
Alpine plants, 142, 242. 
Amagi (Chikuzen), 430, 

432. 
Amagi-san, 136. 
Amagori, 376. 
Amakuni, 186. 
Amakusa, 424, 441. 
Amami-Oshima, 446 ; 

445. 
Ama - no - Hasliidate, 

371. 
Ama-no Uki-hashi, 371, 

379. 
Ama-terasu, 39 ; 32, 251. 
Amatsu, 193. 
Amebata-yama, 225. 
Amida (god), 39; 48, 

64. 



498 



Index. 



AMIDA 


ASIATIC SOCIETY 


AZUSA-GAWA 


Amida (Harima), 290, 


Arida, 360. 


Aso-san, 437 ; 436. 


383. 


Arima, 291 ; 287. 


Asso, 369. 


Amihari, 459. 


Arimura, 442. 


Aston, W. G., 57, 121. 


Anabara, 221. 


Arita, 420 ; 413, 419. 


Asuka-yama, 120. 


Anadaira, 238. 


Arito, 485. 


Atagawa, 137. 


Anan, 39. 


Arsenal (Tokyo), 103. 


Atago (god), 98. 


Ananai, 410. 


Art motives, 47, 48, 53, 


Atago (Karuizawa), 


Ana-no-ura-toge, 370. 


55, 57, 60, 61, 138, 


151. 


Ancestor-worship, 32. 


167, 187, 236, 248, 


Atago (Kuwana), 247. 


Anchin, 360. 


255, 275, 290, 328, 


Atago (Kyoto), 325; 276. 


Anderson, Dr. William, 


335, 363, 390. 


Atago (Sendai), 456. 


2, 39, 54, 60, 63, 64, 


Art objects, 13. 


Atago (Tokyo), 98 ; 89, 


105, 304, 340. 


Art School (Tokyo), 108. 


90. 


Angels, Buddhist, 50. 


Asahi-dake, 468. 


Atago (Uraga), 83. 


Ani, 476. 


Asahi-kawa, 490. 


Atami (Iwashiro), 196. 


Anjin-zuka, 83. 


Asahi-no-taki, 136. 


Atami (Izu), 133; 4, 


Anjo, 263. 


Asaina, 194. 


131. 


Annaka, 149. 


Asaina Saburo, 53. 


Atawa, 364. 


Antoku, emperor, 53, 


Asakai, 201. 


Atoda-gawa, 431, 432. 


391. 


Asakawa, 409. 


Atosa-nobori, 489. 


Ao (Buzen), 432; 431. 


Asakusa, 109 ; 90. 


Atsubetsu, 486. 


Ao (Iga), 245. 


Asarna, goddess, 47. 


Atsugi, 85, 86. 


Aomigawa, 211. 


Asama, hot springs, 206. 


Atsumori, 60, 322, 352. 


Aomori, 461. 


Asama-yama (I.se), 256. 


Atsuta, 271 ; 245, 246. 


Aone, 455. 


Asama-yama (volcano), 


Autumn tints, 9. 


Ao-no-K6myoji, 325. 


152, 156, 205, 278. 


Avatars, divine, 35, 247. 


Aoyama, 98. 


Asami-gawa, 434. 


Avenues, 161, 323, 352, 


Apotheosis, 33. 


Asamushi, 461. 


371. 


Arahama, 211. 


Asano family, 388. 


Awa (Boshu), 182. 


Arai(Atami), 134. 


Asano Takumi-no-ka- 


Awa (Shikoku), 395. 


Arai (Karuizawa), 152. 


mi, 352. 


Awaji, 377 ; 291. 


Arai (Naoetsu), 210. 


Asari, 486. 


Awajima, 472. 


Arai-yu, 156. 


Ase-ga-hama, 180. 


Awashima, 384. 


Arakawa (Echigo), 467. 


Ashida, 279. 


Awata, 297, 299, 330. 


Arakawa (Hayakawa 


Ashikaga, 159. 


Awata palace, 320. 


valley), 225, 227. 


Ashikaga dynasty, 303- 


Awata-guchi, 318. 


Arakawa-dake, 226. 


4 ; 51, 52, 54, 61, 176. 


Awazu, 329. 


Aramaki, 455. 


Ashikubo, 268. 


Ayagawa, 398. 


Arashi-yama, 305, 326. 


Ashikura ( Hayakawa 


Ayako, 469. 


Araya (Ugo), 470. 


Valley), 226-8. 


Azabu, 98. 


Araya (Yezo), 484. 


Ashikura ( Tateyama) , 


Azaleas, 90, 120, 174, 


Arayama-toge, 260. 


239. 


348, 364, 368, 406. 


Arayasu, 208. 


Ashi-no-Umi, 122. 


Azuki-zaka, 468. 


Arayu, 195. 


Ashinoyu, 125 ; 122. 


Azuma, 151, et pass. 


Arazawa, 468. 


Ashio, 178. 


Azuma-bashi, 112. 


Archaelogy, 121, 189, 


Ashitaka-yama, 125, 


Azuma-gawa, 154. 


334,339,340,341,345. 


142, 265. 


Azuma - yama ( Iwa - 


Arched Rock, 387. 


Ashi-waia-koku, 379. 


shiro), 453. 


Architecture, 33, 37, 


Ashuku, 42. 


Azuma - yama (Yoko- 


208, 253, 301, 314, 


Asiatic Society of Ja- 


suka), 83. 


327, 343, 346, 353, 


pan, 43, 103, 242, 


Azusa-gawa, 206, 233, 


356, 363, 374, 401. 


271, 379, 391. 


235. 



Index. 



499 



BABA 


CARRIAGES 


CHINDA 


B 


Boju, 437 ; 433, 438. 


Cartography, 98, 141. 




Bon festival, 416. 


Carving, 55, 58, 65, 78, 


Baba, 276, 329. 


Bonin Islands, 3, 122. 


79, 84, 126, 155, 161, 


Baelz, Dr. E., 156. 


Bonitos, 366. 


186, 219, 269, 272, 296, 


BaieDJi, 134. 


Bonten, 40, 47. 


302—321, 339, 340. 


Bakan, 392. 


Books on Japan, 2. 


Castles, 271, 290, 293 


Bandai-san, 196, 452. 


Boots, 9, 17. 


305, 332, 356, 374, 


Bando, 395. 


Bosatsu, 40. 


387, 401, 428, 446. 


Bange, 201. 


Boslm, 182. 


Catalogue of Paintings, 


Banjiro, 136. 


Botanical Gardens (To- 


105, 304. 


Bank Holidays, 3. 


kyo), 103. 


Cathedral Rocks, 151. 


Banks, 5. 


Botany, 242, 348, 362, 


Catholic Missions, 50, 


Bantan Tetsudo, 372. 


395. 


52, 103, 296, 297, 391, 


Banyu-gawa, 85, 265. 


"Boys," 5. 


447, 458. 


Barriers, 130, 276, 330. 


Bozu-ga-Hora, 139. 


Cattle, 361. 


Batchelor, Rev. John, 


Brahma, 40. 


Cave-dwellers, 121. 


487. 


Bridges, remarkable, 


Caves, 81, 84, 120, 148, 


Bathing, 7, 16, et pass. 


114, 331, 347, 390, 


159, 237, 372, 445, 


Bazaars, 13. 


436. 


446. 


Beds, 8. 


Brinkley, Capt., 420, 


Celebrated men, 53. 


Beer, 10. 


445. 


Cemeteries, 99, 104, 309, 


Befu, 290. 


Buddha, 47 ; 36, etpass. 


314, 352, 441, 446. 


Bells, large, 80, 110, 


Buddhism, 35, et pass. 


Ceramic art, 55, 244, 


311, 319, 338. 


Buddhist seminary,354. 


et pass. 


Benkei, 53, 365, 457, 


Buju-toge, 362. 


Chacha-nobori, 489. 


et pass. 


Bukenji, 84. 


" Chairs," 11. 


Benten, 39, 49, 81. 


Buko-zan, 148. 


Cha-no-yu, 244, 296, 


Benten-daki, 155. 


Bungo, 413, 434. 


307. 


Benten-yama, 125. 


Bungo Fuji, 435. 


Charms, religious, 38, 


Benzaiten, 39. 


Burando Yakushi, 208. 


251, 253, 257. 


Beppu (Bungo), 434. 


Burial, 32. 


Checkers, 366. 


Beppu (Oki), 376. 


Bushu, 310. 


Cherry-blossoms, 60, 90, 


Besshi, 403. 


Buson, 54, 322. 


98, 104, 113, 119, 302, 


Betsukai, 490. 


Bussho-zan, 398. 


305, 323, 348. 


Bingo, 387. 


Buzen, 413. 


Chess, Japanese, 169. 


Bingo Nada, 382. 


Byobu-ga-ura, 400. 


Chiara Giuseppe, 103. 


Bingo-no-Saburo, 59. 


Byodo-in, 327. 


Chiba, 185 ; 182. 


Binzuru, 40. 




Chiburi, 375, 376. 


Bird, Miss, 487. 




Chichibu, 148, et pass. 


Bishamon, 40, 49; 39, 


G 


Chief sights, 12. 


48, 334, etpass. 




Chijiwa, 424. 


Bismarck Hill, 289. 


Calendars, 53, 64. 


Chikatsuyu, 361. 


Biwa Lake, 328; 4, 


Calligraphy, god of, 48. 


Chikubu - shima, 333 ; 


276, 287. 


Camphor trees, 134, 


328. 


Biwa-toge, 282. 


414, 442. 


Chikugo, 413. 


Black's Young Japan, 


Canadian Pacific Rail- 


Chikugo-gawa, 427, 432. 


86, 264. 


wav Co., 2. 


Chikuma - gawa, 205, 


Blakiston, Capt., 479. 


Canal (Biwa), 329 ; 320. 


206, et pass. 


Boars, 349, 362. 


Cape Manazuru, 133. 


Chikura, 192. 


Boats, 3. 


Capron, General, 479. 


Chikuzen, 413. 


Bodai-yama, 85. 


Cards, visiting, 17. 


Chin Nampin, 268. 


Bodhisattva, 40. 


Carriages, 10. 


Chinda, 436. 



500 



Index. 



CHINESE INFLUENCE 


DANJUKO 


DZUSHI 


Chinese influence, 32, 


Crown Prince, 91, 98, 


Dannoura, 391. 


35, 51, 52, et pass. 


134, 267. 


Daruma, 40. 


Chion-in, 318. 


Crows, 248, 363. 


Dashiwara-dani, 239. 


Chionji, 371. 


Cryptomerias, 161, 336, 


Date family, 54, 102, 


Chiwara, 402. 


352, 364, 368, 439, 


107, 408, 455. 


Clio Densu, 54, 303— 


442, 462. 


Dazaifu, 426; 48, 114, 


309, 399. 


Crystals, 213, 280. 


425. 


Choja-saki, 81. 


Curio Street (Tdkyo), 


Deer, 172, 189, 336, 


Choji-taki, 171. 


102. 


390, 464. 


Chokai-zan, 471. 


Curios, 13. 


Deer Island, 448. 


Chomeiji-yama, 330. 


Currency, 5. 


Death-Stone, 196. 


Chonan, 188. 


Custom-House, 3, 14. 


Deforestation, 136, 368. 


Choshi, 189. 


Czarewitch, 63, 330. 


Deguchi, 433. 


Ckoshu, 391. 




Dengyd Daishi, 54, 324,, 


Chosokabe, 395, 399. 




327. 


Christian relics, 107. 


D 


Deshima, 414 ; 52. 


Christianity in Japan, 




Deva, 48. 


50, 52, 107, 259, 391, 


Daiba, 135. 


Dictionary of Roads, 6. 


413-14, 417, 436, 447. 


Daibutsu (Hyogo), 291. 


Diet, Imperial, 52, 53, 


Chrysanthemums, 90, 


Daibutsu (Kamakura), 


91, 99, 100. 


99, 103, 294. 


78; 39. 


Distances, calculation 


Chuai, emperor, 391. 


Daibutsu (Kyoto), 310. 


of, 6, 11, 141, 350, 413. 


Chudo-Meguri, 146. 


Daibutsu (Nara), 338. 


Divers, female, 256. 


Chugushi, 175. 


Daibutsu (Tokyo), 105. 


Dixon, Prof. J. M., 103. 


Churenji, 471. 


Daichi-gawara, 431. 


Dobin-dake, 437. 


Chusonji, 457. 


Dai-ga-hara, 221, 228. 


Dockyards, 82, 416. 


Chu-Uma-Kaido, 231. 


Dai-ga-take, 128 ; 122. 


Dogashima (Izu), 137. 


Chuzenji, 175 ; 161. 


Daijingu, 39. 


Dogashima ( Miyano- 


Circular Railway, 88. 


Dai-Kagura, 250. 


shita), 124 ; 122. 


Civil Wars, 52, 53, 105, 


Daikoku, 40, 49. 


Dog-hunting, 196. 


200, 430, 441, 479. 


Daikoku-yama, 225. 


Dogo (Iyo),402; 401. 


Climate, 8, 133, 212, 


Daikon-gawa, 430. 


Dogo (Oki), 375, 376. 


359, 395, 446, 469, 


Daimon, 280. 


Dogs, 251, 351, 390. 


488. 


Danny 6s, 56, 91. 


Doi (Sanuki), 405. 


Cloisonne, 13, 88, 297. 


Dainichi-do, 171. 


Doi (Shimosa), 185. 


Clothing, 8. 


Dainichi Nyorai, 40-42. 


Dojoji, 360. 


Coinage, 5. 


Dainichi-toge, 469. 


Dolls, 309, 315, 336. 


Confucius, temples of, 


Daira, 259. 


Domyoji, 334. 


102, 160. 


Dairi, 425. 


Dorogawa, 349. 


Constitution, nolitical, 


Daisanji, 289. 


Doro Hatcho, 364. 


52, 53, 57, 254. 


Daiseishi, 40. 


Doryo-san, 128; 122. 


Conveyances, 10. 


Daisen, 373; 54. 


Doshima, 386. 


Convolvuli, 90. 


Daishaku, 459. 


Doshisha, 301 ; 297. 


Cormorant fishing, 118. 


Daishi, 40, 86. 


Dosojin, 40. 


213, 275. 


Daishoji, 259. 


Dotombori, 292, 295. 


Cotton, 159, 211, 272, 


Daitokuji, 302. 


Doves, 115. 


296, 397. 


Daiya-gawa, 164, 174. 


Dozaki, 424. 


Cow, figures of, 48. 


Dances, 33, 250, 297, 


Dutch in Japan, 52, 


Crape, 76, 160, 333. 


323, 337. 


56, 83, 107, 117, 166, 


Creator and Creatress, 


Dango-zaka, 103. 


404, 413-16, 420. 


43, et pass. 


Dangyd-taki, 377. 


Dutiable articles, 3. 


Cremation, 289, 352. 


Danjuro, 352. 


Dzushi, 81, 82, 84. 



Index. 



501 



Earth, goddess of, 50, 

155. 
Earthquakes, great, 91, 

208, 238, 274, 375. 
Ebetsu, 487. 
Ebisu, 41, 49, 277. 
Ebisu-minato, 212. 
Eboshi-jirna, 386. 
Echigawa, 276. 
Echigo, 210. 
Echigo Fuji, 468. 
Edozawa, 476. 
Eguchi, 405. 
Ei, 443. 
" Eight Views " (Hak- 

&ei)\ 328; 82, 97, 234. 
Eighty-eight Holy 

Places, 408 ; 397. 
Eikwando, 320. 
Eisai, 314. 
Eisho, 431. 
Eitel, Dr. E. J., 40. 
Ejiri, 267, 268. 
Eko-in, 113. 
Embassies, Japanese, 

53, 54, 107. 
Embroideries, 297. 
Emi, 192. 
Emma-O, 41, 344. 
Empress Dowager, 98. 
Ena-san, 243, 281. 
Enchin, 315. 
Engineering College, 99. 
Enko Daishi, 318. 
Enkyo, 215. 
Enno, 222, 228. 
En-no- Shokaku, 54, 

349. 
Enojima, 206. 
Enomoto, Admiral, 479. 
Enoshima, 80. 
Enoura (Izu), 137, 266. 
Enoura (Sagami), 133. 
Enoyu, 444. 
Enryakuji, 149. 
Enryo-kwan, 87, 115. 
Enzan, 218. 
Eruptions, great, 142, 

152, 197. 
Esaki, 383. 



FOBEIGN OFFICE 

Esan, 482. 

Esashi, 484. 

Eshin, 54, 96. 

Esumi, 369. 

Etajima, 388. 

Etchu-Hida moun- 
tains, 232. 

Eto Shimpei, 430. 

Europeanisation, 1, 52, 
91, 441, etpass. 

Execution ground, 330. 

Exhibitions, 91, 104. 

Exile, places of, 138, 
212. 

Expenses, 7. 

Ex-votos, 37, 188, 390, 
etpass. 



F 

Fairs, 90. 

Fairy Tales, 307, 331. 

Fatsisio, 138. 

Feast of Lanterns, 416. 

Festivals, curious, 365, 

367, 415. 
Festivals, national, 3, 

107. 
Feudalism, 51, etpass. 
Fire-drill, 374. 
Fire, god of, 41, 98, 

155, 326, 367. 
Fire, sacred, 390. 
Fishing, 15, 134, 175, 

181, 189, 197, 211, 

365, 460, 480, et sea. 
Five Hundred Rakan, 

47, et pass. 
Fixed Routes, 71 ; 4. 
Flag, Japanese, 328. 
Floods, 277, 361, 362. 
Flowers, 90, etpass. 
Fogs, 489. 
Food, 10, 12. 
Food, goddess of, 50, 

251. 
Foot-gear, 9. 
Foreign Settlements, 3, 

76, 115, 287, 293, 414. 
Foreigners, 3. 
Foreign Office, 100. 



FUKUOKA 

Formosan expedition, 

53, 416. 

Forts, 87, 282, 379, 392. 
Fortune-telling, 332. 
Forty-seven Ronins, 

54, 98. 

Foxes, nossession by, 

185, 196, 427. 
Fox-god, 43, 308, 309. 
Frescoes, 313. 

Fu Daishi, 41. 
Fubasami, 161. 
Fuchu, 404. 
Fudaraku-sen, 267, 340. 
Fuden-zaka, 365. 
Fude-sute-matsu, 82. 
Fudo, 41, 46, 186. 
Fugen, 41. 
Fugen-dake, 422. 
Fuji, 140, 328, etpass. 
Fuji, goddess of, 144. 
Fujieda, 263. 
Fujikawa, rapids, 221. 
Fuji-mi Ju - san - shu y 

141. 
Fujimi-toge, 172, 173. 
Fuji-no-mori, 328. 
Fujisawa, 265 ; 63, 80. 
Fujishima, 470. 
Fujishiro-saka, 360. 
Fujiwara, 195, 200. 
Fujiwara family, 52, 

186, 336, 457. 
Fukae (Chikuzen), 431. 
Fukae ( Shimabara ), 

424. 
Fukagawa, 114. 
Fukara Pass, 132. 
Fukaura, 475. 
Fukawa, 249. 
Fukaya, 148. 
Fukiage, 148. 
Fukuchiyama, 370. 
Fukuda, 246. 
Fukue, 447. 
Fukuhara, 182. 
Fukui, 259. 
Fukuma, 425. 
Fukumachi, 355. 
Fukumitsu, 241. 
Fukuoka (Chikuzen), 

426; 425. 



502 



Index, 



FUKUOKA 

Fukuoka (Mutsu), 460. 
Fukura (Awaji), 471. 
Fukura (Ugo), 380; 

377. 
Furuta (Higo), 445. 
Furuta ( Shimotsuke ), 

451. 
Fukuroi, 263. 
Fukurokuju, 42, 49. 
Fukushima (Iwashiro), 

452. 
Fukushima (Shinshu), 

281 ; 233. 
Fukushima (Yezo), 484. 
Fukuwara, 58, 60, 291. 
Fukuwata, 195. 
Fukuwatashi, 373. 
Fukuyama (Biugo), 387; 

383. 
Fukuyama ( Matsu- 

mae), 483, 485. 
Fukuyama (Osumi), 

439. 
Funabashi, 185. 
Funagata, 473. 
Funai, 436. 
Funairi-shima, 463. 
Fuuakawa, 475 ; 212. 
Funaki, 368. 
Funakoshi, 475. 
Funako-toge, 200. 
Funaoka-yama, 302. 
Funato (Kishu), 356. 
Funato (Uzen), 468. 
Funatsu (Fuji), 147, 

223. 
Funatsu (Hida), 240. 
Funerals, imperial, 309. 
Furotaira, 236. 
Furuichi, 250. 
Furukawa (Hida), 240. 
Furukawa ( Eikuzen ), 

456. 
Furukawa (Toku- 

shima), 396. 
Furukuchi, 470. 
Furumachi, 195. 
Furu-yashiki, 226. 
Furuyuki, 472. 
Fusan, 448. 
Fuse, 202. 
Fushiki, 259. 



GEISHU 

Fushimi (Kyoto), 309 ; 

308, 328. 
Fushimi (Nakasendo), 

282. 
Fusiyama, 141. 
Futa-ai-no-toge, 438. 
Futa-ara-no-jinja, 168. 
Futa-ara-yama, 162. 
Futaba-yama, 388. 
Futago, 118. 
Futago-yama ( Hako- 

ne), 127; 122. 
Futago-yama (Vries), 

140. 
Futago-yama (Yama- 

to), 342, 347. 
Futai, 201. 
Futakuchi-toge, 469. 
Futamata (E c h i g o) , 

210. 
Futamata (Harinoki- 

toge), 238. 
Futamata (Kaga), 241. 
Futami, 255 ; 247. 
Futamiya, 174. 
Futatabi-san, 288. 
Futatsu-dake, 155. 
Futatsu-goya, 454. 
Futatsu-ishi, 378. 
Futemma, 446. 
Futsukaichi, 426 ; 425, 

430. 
Futsu-nushi, 188. 
Fuwa, 276. 



Gamada, 234, 235. 

Game, 14, etpass. 

Gamman-ga-fuchi, 170. 

Gamushi, 484. 

Ganju-san, 459. 

Garden-parties, 99. 

Gardens, florists' (To- 
kyo), 90, 117, 119. 

Gardens, landscape, 
103, 165, 303, 307, 
316, 322, 324, 387, 
388, 396. 

Gautama, 47. 

Geishu, 388. 



GO-TOBA 

Geku temple, 251 — 5. 
Gemmudo, 372. 
Genkai Nada, 425. 
Genghis Khan, 67. 
Genji Mo?iogatari 1 61,, 

290, 332. 
Gensan, 448. 
Geology, 182, 183. 
Gero, 233. 
Geysers, 133, 158, 422, 

435, 437. 
Gifu, 274, 278. 
Gimba-yama, 279. 
Ginkakuji, 322. 
Ginza, 102. 
Gion, 318 ; 48, 416. 
Glimpses of Unfamiliar 

Japan, 2, 376. 
Gobo, 361. 
Gochi, 211. 
Go-chi Nyorai, 42. 
Gochoda, 156. 
Go-Daigo, emperor, 54,, 

59, 348, et pass. 
Godai-san, 409. 
Godo, 179, 180. 
Gods and Goddesses,, 

39; 32, etpass. 
Gogawa, 434. 
Gogoshima, 385, 402. 
Gojo, 350. 
Gokamura, 225. 
Gokase-gawa, 439. 
Gokasho, 439. 
Gokoknji, 104. 
Gold, discovered, 465. 
Goma ceremonies, 186» 
Gomen, 409. 
Gompachi and Komiv 

rasaki, 116. 
Gongen (god), 42 ; 35, 

50, etpass. 
Gongen (Hakone), 130. 
Gongen-dake, 224. 
Goroju, 185. 
Goroku-dake, 239. 
Goryo-kaku, 480. 
Go-Shirakawa, 310, 359. 
Gotemba,143,265; 128, 

140, 141. 
Goto Islands, 447 ; 414. 
Go-Toba, emperor, 376. 



Index. 



503 



GOTO KISABUBO 

Goto Kisaburo, 187. 

Goyo-san, 467. 

Goyu, 271. 

Gozu Tenno, 48, 336. 

Grapes, 213. 

Griffis, Rev. W. E., 2, 

259. 
Grinnan, Rev. R. B., 

283. 
Guides, 5, 140, 162. 
Gumma, 149. 
Gunchu, 408. 
Gunge, 381 ; 377. 
Gunji, Lieut., 489. 
Gwakko Bosatsu, 42. 
Gwassan, 470. 
Gyogi Bosatsu, 54, 338, 

et pass. 
Gyoja-do, 170, 172. 
Gyoji, 434. 



H 

Habu, 138, 139. 
Hachi-ga-machi, 234. 
Hachi-ishi, 161, 162. 
Hachijo, 138, etpass. 
Hachiman (god), 42 ; 

35. 
Hachiman (station), 

263. 
Hachiman, temples of, 

78, 114, etpass. 
Hachiman Taro, 55, et 

pass. 
Hachimen-zan, 434. 
Hachinohe, 460. 
Hachioji, 120; 85, 215. 
Hachiro-gata, 474. 
Hachisuka family, 396 ; 

378, 395. 
Hachiya, 434. 
Hagi, 375. 
Hagiwara, 233. 
Haguro-san, 470. 
Haguro-yama, 171. 
Hagyu, 191. 
Haibara, 245. 
Haiki, 418. 
Haijima, 216. 
Hainotsuka, 425. 



HABIMA NADA 

Hajikami-zaka, 367. 
Hakashima, 387. 
Hakata, 425, 431. 
Hakii, 221. 
Hakodate, 480. 
Hakone, 130 ; 122. 
Hakozaki, 425, 426. 
Hakuchi, 405, 407. 
Haku-san, 241 ; 232. 
Hamada, 375. 
Hama-dera, 358. 
Hamajima, 256. 
Hamamachi, 438. 
Hamamatsu, 270; 230. 
Hamana Lagoon, 270. 
Hamauo, 188. 
Hamanoichi, 443. 
Hamanomiya, 366. 
Hamasaki, 431. 
Hamawake, 434. 
Hamura, 216. 
Hana-magari, 152. 
Hanamaki, 458. 
Hanaizumi, 451. 
Hana-no-Iwaya, 367. 
Hanare-yama, 151. 
Hanasaki-gawa, 215. 
Hanashiki, 157. 
Hanatate, 473. 
Hanawa, 180. 
Handa (Iwashivo), 454. 
Handa (Owari), 250. 
Handbook of Colloquial 

Japanese, 21. 
Hanging Bridge, 218, 

222. 
Hankai Railway, 295. 
Hanno, 217. 
Hannya, waterfall, 174. 
Hanzobo, 80. 
Ha-no-ura, 409. 
Hara (Etchu), 238. 
Hara (Suruga), 142. 
Harabo, 137. 
Harada, 425. 
Harai-gawa, 398. 
Harakiri, 61, 279, 291, 

296, 325, 351, 441. 
Haratai, 466. 
Harima, 380, et pass. 
Harima-meguri, 290. 
Harima Nada, 382. 



HIDA-GAWA 

Harinoki-toge, 237. 
Harris, Mr. 136. 
Haruna, 155. 
Harutori, lake, 488. 
Hase, 343. 
Hashiba (Shimashima), 

206. 
Hashiba (Ugo), 474. 
Hashigi, 238. 
Hashihama, 400. 
Hashikura Rokuemon, 

107. 
Hashikura-ji, 406. 
Hashimoto (Kishu), 

350. 
Hashimoto (Kyoto), 

325. 
Hashiri-mizu, 151. 
Hashiwa, 281. 
Hassaki, 211. 
Hasseki, 182. 
Hasuda, 451. 
Hata (Hakone), 128, 

131. 
Hata (Shinshu), 223. 
Hatahiki-yama, 132. 
Hatahoko, 234. 
Hatsuse, 343. 
Hatsushima, 134. 
Hawaii, emigration to, 

391. 
Hayachine, 466 ; 458. 
Hayakawa (Miyano- 

shita), 123, 124. 
Hayakawa (Izu), 133. 
Hayakawa (Koshu), 

224. 
Hayazaki, 333. 
Health resorts, 12. 
Hearn,Lafcadio, Pref. t 

2, 376. 
Hegawa-gawa, 466. 
Hekigawa, 361. 
Hemi, 83. 

Hepburn, Dr. J. C, 21. 
Herai-dake, 460. 
Hibara, 199. 
Hida (Buzen), 431, 432. 
Hida (Izu), 137. 
Hida - Etchu Moun- 
tains, 232 ; 12. 
Hida-gawa, 233. 



504 



Index. 



HIDA KAIDO 

Hida Kaido, 233. 
Hidari Jingoro, 55, et 

pass. 
Hidetsugu, 351. 
Hideyori, 276, 310, 311. 
Hideyoshi, 55; 51, 293, 

316, etpass. 
Hie, 46, 99, 324. 
Hiei-zan, 324; 276,318. 
Hiekawa, 137. 
Higane (Atami), 134 ; 

122, 131. 
Higane (Kusatsu), 157. 
Higashi-gawa, 410. 
Higashi-Igawa, 405. 
Higasni - Iwase, 260 ; 

258. 
Higasbi-Mochiya, 279. 
Higashi-Ogawa, 181. 
Higashi-Otani, 317. 
Higashi-Oyama, 200. 
Higashi-vama, 321. 
Higo, 413. 
Hiino Misaki, 284. 
Hiji, 434. 
Hijikawa, 408. 
Hijiyama, 388. 
Hi'kage, 157. 
Hikage Chidori, 181. 
Hikata, 360. 
Hikawa, 217 ; 148. 
Hiketa, 397. 
Hikida, 258. 
Hikime, 466. 
Hikishima, 387. 
Hikone, 332 ; 276. 
Hiko-san. 429, 432. 
Hikushima, 386. 
Himegami-dake, 460. 
Himeji, 290 ; 287, 383. 
Himejima, 386. 
Himi (Nagasaki), 417. 
Himi (Note), 260. 
Hina-ga-take, 259. 
Hinata Chidori, 181. 
Hino, 119. 
Hinoki-toge, 235. 
Hinoki-yama, 370. 
Hino-misaki, 375. 
Hints, various, 16. 
Hiomo, 234. 
Hirabayashi, 226. 



HODAKA 

Hirado, 386, 414. 
Hiragana syllabary, 52, 

59 
Hiragi (Iyo), 405. 
Hiragi (Sanuki), 398. 
Hirahama, 132. 
Hiraigo-gawa, 362 
Hiraishi, 132. 
Hirano Jinja, 302. 
Hirano, spring, 290. 
Hirano, station, 333. 
Hirasawa (Nakasendo), 

280. 
Hirasawa ( Yatsu-ga- 

take), 224. 
Hirase, 241. 
Hirata, 374. 
Hiratsuka, 84, 86. 
Hirayama ( Kyoto ), 

276, 324, 329. 
Hirayama (Shikoku), 

405. 
Hirayu, 234. 
Hirazawa, 472. 
Hirooka, 193. 
Hirosaki, 475. 
Hirose, 230. 
Hirose-gawa, 455. 
Hirosbima, city, 388 ; 

375, 383. 
Hiroshima, island, 

385. 
Hiruma, 406. 
Hishima, 472. 
Hishi-ura, 376. 
History, 51. 
Hita, 432; 431. 
Hitachi, 182. 
Hito-ana, 147 ; 144. 
Hitoichi, 474. 
Hitomaro, 55, 290. 
Hitoyoshi, 445. 
Hiwada, 242. 
Hiwasa, 409. 
Hiyoku-zuka, 116. 
Hiyori-^ama, 256. 
Hiyosbi, 325. 
Hizen, 386, 413. 
Hizume, 458. 
Ho (Koshu), 225. 
Ho (Sanuki), 405. 
Hodaka (Hida), 236. 



HOEAIJI 

Hodaka (Kotsuke), 

160. 
Hodo, waterfall, 174. 
Hodogaya, 263. 
Hoei-zan, 142, 143. 
Hoido, 233. 
Hojo (Boshu), 192. 
Hojo (god), 316. 
Hojo (Iyo), 400. 
Hojo (Izu), 135. 
Hojo (Regents), 51, 52, 

54, 123, 135, 376, 397, 

426. 
Hoka-zan, 418. 
Hold, 375, 376. 
Hokigawa, 194. 
Hokkaido, 479. 
Hokkaido Railway, 486. 
Hokke sect., 36, 62. 
Hokkeji, 336. 
Hokkoku Kaido, 209, 

211, 239. 
Hokoda, 189. 
Hoko-kwai, 162. 
Hokuroku-do, 278. 
Holidays, 3. 
Hommonji, 117. 
Hommyo-gawa, 423. 
Homusubi, 98, 155. 
Hondo, 395. 
Hondoji, 471. 
Honen Shonin, 312, 

321. 
Hongo (Aid), 383. 
Hongo (Uzen), 468. 
Hongu, 362 ; 359, 369. 
Hongwanji sect, 64. 
Hongwanji temples, 

109, 115, 272, 312, 

313, et pass. 
Honjo (Musashi), 148. 
Honjo (Ugo), 472. 
Honkokuji, 312. 
Honno, 188. 
Honose, 218. 
Honshima, 385. 
Hon to S6men-ga-taki, 

171. 
Honzawa, 224. 
H6-6-do, 327. 
H6-6-zan, 228. 
Horaiji, 231. 



Index. 



505 



HORIE 


IKUNO 


INSCRIPTIONS 


Horie, 396, 397. 


Ichinohe, 460. 


Ikuno (Tamba), 370. 


Horikiri, 113. 


Ichinokawa, 403. 


Ikushumbetsu, 486. 


Hori-no-uchi (Tokaido 


Ichinomiya, 263. 


Ikuta, 288. 


By.), 263. 


Ichinono, 410. 


Ikutsuki-shima, 386. 


Hori-no-uchi (Tokyo), 


Ichi-no-saka, 375. 


Imabari, 402 ; 400. 


118. 


Ichinoseki, 456, 467. 


Imaichi, 161, 195. 


Horiuchi, 81. 


Ichinose-toge, 229. 


Imaisurugi, 259. 


Horobetsu, 487 ; 479. 


Ichi-no-tani, 290. 


Imajuku, 431. 


Horomui, 486. 


Ichi-no-watari, 476. 


Imari, 420 ; 413, 431. 


Horses, 11, 361, 376, 


Ida Ten, 42, et pass. 


Imba lagoon, 185. 


442, 446, 460, 480. 


Idake, 400. 


Imori-toge, 361. 


Horses, sacred, 34, 166. 


Ideguchi, 433. 


Imose-yama, 347, 357. 


Horse-shoe Valley, 289. 


Idezawa, 226. 


Imoyama, 347. 


Horyuji, 334 ; 107. 


Iemitsu, 55, 104, 119, 


Imperial Household, 


Hosokawa family, 395, 


169. 


102. 


427. 


leyasu, 56, 165, 267, et 


Ina, 230 ; 229, 243. 


Hosokute, 282. 


pass. 


Ina Kaido, 230. 


Hosonaga, 440. 


Iga, 249. 


Inaba-gawa, 436. 


Hoso-o pass, 178. 


Igano, 379. 


Inaba-yama, 274. 


Hospitals, 99. 


Ignis fatuus, 424. 


Inage, 185. 


Hota, 192. 


liba, 431. 


Inago, 224. 


Hotei, 42, 49. 


Iida 230. 


Inamura-ga-saki, 79. 


Hotels, 7. 


Iide-san, 468. 


Inamura-yama, 349. 


Hotoke, 42. 


ligai, 347. 


Inari, god, 43, 308, et 


Hotokeiwa, 170. 


lijima (Hida), 241, 


pass. 


Hotta family, 185. 


Iijima (Shinshu), 230.^ 


Inari (Kasama), 183. 


Hozu, 326. 


li - Kamon - no - Kami, 


Inari (Kyoto), 308, 276. 


Huish, M. B., 2. 


100, 332. 


Inari-kawa, 171, 173. 


Hunter's Gap, 288. 


Iinoyama, 398. 


Inasa-yama, 416. 


HyaJcu-nin Is-shu, 330, 


Iizaka, 453. 


Inatori, 137. 


337. 


Iizuka (Chikuzen), 425. 


Inawashiro, 197. 


Hyakusawa, 475. 


Iizuka (Takasaki), 149, 


Incarnations, divine, 


Hymns, Buddhist, 344. 


154, 156. 


35. 


Hyogo, 291 ; 287, 378. 


Iizuna-san, 208. 


Incense parties, 399. 


Hyuga, 439; 413. 


Ikao, 153. 


Indian influence, 35, 




Ikari, 200. 


305, 310, 335. 




Ikari-ga-seki, 474. 


Indigo, 397, 442. 


1 


Ikazuchi-yama, 426. 


Industries of Japan, 2. 




Ikeda (Awa), 406, 410. 


Inekoki, 236. 


Ibaraki, prefecture, 182. 


Ikeda (Higo), 425. 


Inland Sea, 382; 106, 


Ibaraki, station, 263. 


Ikeda ( Tenryu-gawa ), 


397, etpass. 


Ibi-gawa, 246. 


230. 


Innai, 473. 


Ibuki-yama, 276. 


Ikegami, 117 ; 37. 


Innoshima, 384. 


Ichiba (Bungo), 440. 


Ikegawa, 410. 


Inns, 7. 


Ichiba (Shinshu), 229. 


Ikejiri, 128. 


Ino, 410. 


Ichibishinai, 489. 


Ike-no-ura, 256. 


Ino (Shimosa), 184. 


Ichibu, 192. 


Ikeshima, 387. 


Ino (Tosa), 409. 


Ichikawa (Shimosa), 


Iki, 386, 447. 


Ino Chukei, 97. 


184. 


Ikko sect, 36. 


I-no-Kashira, 119, 91. 


Ichikawa Valley, 290. 


Ikudama, 293, 294. 


Inokuchi, 258. 


Ichiku, 441. 


Ikuno (Tajima), 372; 


Insatsu Kyoku, 102. 


Ichinoharu, 433. 


i 370. 


Inscriptions, 38, 485. 



506 



Index. 



INTKODUCTION 


IZANAMI 


JIN-GA-MINE 


Introduction , letters 


Itaibara, 373. 


Izawa, 223. 


of, 8. 


Itami, 290. 


Izogu, 253, 255. 


Inu-ga-take, 434. 


Itamura, 196. 


Izu, 133, 137. 


Inujima, 83. 


Iterup, 489 ; 488. 


Izugabara, 447. 


Inukami-gawa, 276. 


Itineraries, how calcu- 


Izumi (province), 277, 


Inu-ou-mono, 196. 


lated, 11. 


355. 


Irako-zaki, 250. 


Ito, 134, 137. 


Izumi (Satsuma), 442. 


Irimachi, 161. 


Itoigawa, 260 ; 258. 


Izumi (strait), 284. 


Iri-no-yu, 152. 


Itomi, 221, 224. 


Izumi-ga-mori, 408. 


Iriomote, 446. 


Itozawa, 199. 


Izumi-kawa, 400, 405. 


Irises, 90, 113. 


Itsukushima, 390. 


Izumisawa, 483. 


Iriyama-toge, 151. 


Iwabuchi, 22 2; 14 0, 


Izumo, great temple of,. 


Irogawa, 369. 


266. 


374 ; 33, 35. 


Isahaya, 423, 430. 


Iwade, 356. 


Izumosaki, 211. 


Isaki, 386. 


Iwafune, 159. 


Izuna-san, 208. 


Ise, 245; 33, 35, 271, 


Iwa-ga-saki, 176. 


Izuru, 159, 162. 


308. 


Iwai (Ichinoseki), 456. 


Izu-san, 134; 132. 


Ise Ondo, 250. 


Iwai (Inaba), 372. 




Iseji, 245, 246. 


Iwai-nushi, 188. 




Iseki, 366. 


Iwaki, 202. 


J 


Ise-mairi, 245. 


Iwakiri, 451. 




Isesaki, 159. 


Iwaki-saD, 475. 


Jakko, 171. 


Ishibama, 463. 


Iwakuni, 390 ; 389. 


Jakotsu-gawa, 124. 


Ishibashi, 451. 


Iwakuzure, 468. 


James, Mrs. T. H., 370. 


Ishibata, 275. 


Iwamizawa, 487. 


Japan (Dr. Kern's), 2. 


Ishibe, 249. 


Iwamurata, 278 ; 223. 


Japan and its Art, 2. 


Ishidoriya, 451. 


Iwanai, 485. 


Japan Mail, 101, 283. 


Ishigaki-jima, 446. 


Iwanezawa, 471. 


Japan Mail Steamship 


Ishigama, 426. 


Iwanuma, 455. 


Company, 3. 


Ishigami Sotojuku, 202. 


Iwasa Matahei, 57. 


Japanese Fairy Tale 


Ishii, 404. 


Iwasaki, Mr., 134. 


Series, 307, 331, 370. 


Ishikake-yama, 123, 


Iwasaki gorge, 224. 


Japanese Homes, 2. 


126. 


Iwase, 182. 


Japanese life, seeing, 


Ishikari, 486. 


Iwashimizu, 325. 


13; 12. 


Ishikawa, 474. 


Iwataki, 371, 373. 


Jesuits, 296, 426. 


Ishikawa Goemon, 57, 


Ivvate, 458. 


Ji sect, 36. 


320. 


Iwate-san, 459. 


Jie Daishi, 109. 


Ishikawa-jima, 115. 


Iwaya, 200. 


Jigen Daishi, 109, 163, 


Isbikoshi, 456. 


Iwaya-dake, 418. 


169. 


Ishikura, 487. 


Iwazu, 407. 


Jigoku-no-kawa, 176. 


Ishinden, 247. 


Iwoshirna, 387, 414. 


Jikaku Daishi, 57, et 


Ishinomaki, 463 ; 457, 


Iwo-san, 489, 490. 


pass. 


464. 


Iya, 407. 


Jike, 400. 


Ishiyama-dera, 3 31; 


Iyadani, 400. 


Jikkoku-toge (Hakone), 


329. 


Iyagawa, 407. 


131. 


Ishizuchi-yama, 103. 


Iyo, 395. 


Jikkoku-toge (Nakasen- 


Isobe, 149. 


Iyo Nada, 382. 


do), 281. 


Isoshi, 289. 


Izanagi, 43 ; 32, 39, 45, 


Jikoku, 48. 


Isuzu-gawa, 255, 257. 


183, 371, 378, 379. 


Jikwan waterfalls, 172. 


Itabashi (Shinshu), 224. 


Izanami, 43, 45, 98, 


Jimmu, emperor, 57, 


Itabashi (Musashi), 88. 


183, 326, 367, 371, 


121, 341, etpass. 


Itadome, 476. 


378, 379. 


Jin-ga-mine, 354. 



Index. 



507 



JINGO 


KAMIGATA 


KANAYAMA 


Jingo, empress, 57, 288, 


Kagami-bata, 139. 


Kami-ichi, 347. 


301, etpass. 


Kaga-no-Chiyo, 259. 


Kami-ide, 147 ; 144. 


Jinguji, 474. 


Kagara-shima, 386. 


Kamijima, 256. 


Ji-no-shima, 284. 


Kagemori, 148. 


Kamikane, 218. 


Jino-tdge, 471. 


Kage-no-shima, 414. 


Kamikawa, 487, 490. 


Jinrikishas, 7. 


Kagoshima, 440 ; 63, 


Kami-Kurogoma, 223. 


Jinzu-gawa, 239. 


86, 439. 


Kami-Megaro, 117. 


Jishikoku-yama, 408. 


Kagutsuchi, 98, 270. 


Kami-Miyori, 199. 


Jizo, 43, etpass. 


Kaidaichi, 383. 


Kami-Moroda, 156. 


Jizo-dake, 228. 


Kaifukn-toge, 430. 


Kami-Nishino, 242. 


Jizogaya, 430. 


Kaigane-san, 227. 


Kami-no-hara, 242. 


Jocho, 58. 


Kaimon-dake, 442; 440. 


Kami-no-kura, 365. 


Jodankei, 486. 


Kaitakushi, 479, 486. 


Kami-no-mara, 410. 


Jodo sect, 36, 318. 


Kaito, 245, 246. 


Kami-no-Suwa, 222, 


Jodoji-mura, 322. 


Kaiyusha, 5. 


279. 


Joe, 346. 


Kaizuka, 358. 


Kami-no-yama, 469. 


Jo-ga-hana, 241. 


Kajika-zawa, 221. 


Kami-Odori, 241. 


Jogashima, 84. 


Kakegawa, 270. 


Kamioka, 202. 


Joren-taki, 136. 


Kakemono, 13, 302. 


Kami-Takase, 400. 


Josetsu, 58. 


Kakizaki, 211. 


Kami-Tsutaki, 222. 


Joshinji, 114. 


Kakogawa, 290, 383. 


Kamiya, 350. 


Joyama, 135. 


Kaknma-gawa, 473. 


Kamiyama, 126 ; 122. 


Jujo-toge, 361. 


Kakumi, 482. 


Kami-Yashiro, 245. 


Ju-ni Doji, 111. 


Kakunotate, 474. 


Kami - Yoshida, 144^ 


Ju-ni-kai, 112. 


Kakuto, 443. 


215. 


Jtiniso, 118. 


Kamado, 282. 


Kami-Yujima, 225. 


Junisho, 476. 


Kamafuse-zan, 461. 


Kami-Zuketo, 396. 


Ju-ni-Ten, 305. 


Kamagori, 271. 


Kammuri-ga-take, 125. 


Junnin, emperor, 378, 


Kamaishi, 467. 


Kamogata, 383. 


380. 


Kamakura, 77; 67, et 


Kamogawa ( Bosbu ), 


Junsai-nnma, 481. 


pass. 


192. 


Jurojin, 43, 49. 


Kamanashi-gawa, 221. 


Kamogawa (Iyo), 402. 


Ju-san Mairi, 305. 


Kamatari, 346. 


Kamogawa ( Kyoto ), 


Ju-san-toge, 282. 


Kamazawa, 229. 


298, 299 ; 57, 304, 


Ju-san-zuka, 398. 


Kambara, 266. 


323, 329. 




Kambnku-yama, 429. 


Kamozawa, 217. 




Kameda (Ecbigo), 200. 


Kamui-kotan, 490. 


K 


Kameda (Yezo), 484. 


Kamuro, 350. 




Kame-ga-mori, 403. 


Kan Shojo, 48. 


Kabe, 375. 


Kameido, 114. 


Kana (telegrams in), 5. 


Kabuki-za, 115. 


Kameoka, 370 ; 326. 


Kana-ga-saki, 258. 


Kabuto, 236. 


Kameyama, 247, 249. 


Kanagawa ( B i z e n ) , 


Kabuto-yama, 289. 


Kameyama, emperor, 


373. 


Kachiki, 443. 


305, 310. 


Kanagawa (Yokoha- 


Kachiyama, 192. 


Kamezawa-gawa, 214. 


ma), 86 ; 76, 136. 


Kada, 358. 


Kami, 43. 


Kanagoi-toge, 434. 


Kado, 475. 


Kamibu, 405. 


Kanaiwa, 258. 


Kadoma, 466. 


Kamibuchi, 233. 


Kaname-ishi, 189. 


Kadori, 188. 


Kamidaki, 238, 239. 


Kanaoka, 60, 399, 457. 


Kadosawa, 202. 


Kamidera, 240. 


Kanaya (Bosbu^, 191. 


Kaempfer, 52, 130. 


Kami-Gamo, 323. 


Kanaya (Surnga), 270. 


Kaga-ishi, 177. 


Kamigata, 297. 


Kanayama (Hida), 233. 



508 



Index. 



KANAYAMA 

Kanayama (Uzen), 473. 
Kanayama-zaki, 361. 
Kanazawa (Kaga), 259. 
Kanazawa (Koshu Kai- 

do), 222, 229. 
Kanazawa (Yoko- 
hama), 82. 
Kanda aqueduct, 119. 
Kanda Myojin, 103. 
Kane, 350. 
Kaue-ga-take, 221. 
Kaneko, 154. 
Kannan-zan, 401. 
Kannawa-mura, 435. 
Kan-no-ura, 409. 
Kano (Izu), 137. 
Kano (Mino), 277. 
Kano school, 58, 302- 

322, et pass. 
Kanogawa, 135, 136. 
Kanoki-yama, 265. 
Kano-zan, 190. 
Kanuma, 161. 
Kanzaki (Hizen), 430. 
Kanzaki (Settsu), 263, 

289. 
Kaori, 454. 
Karaki-yama, 434. 
Karakunimi-dake, 444 ; 

443. 
Karasaki, 330 ; 329. 
Karasu temple, 248. 
Karasu-dake, 481. 
Karatsu, 386, 431. 
Kariba Myojin, 351. 
Karigawa, 470. 
Kariki, 486. 
Kariya (Awaji), 378 ; 

377. 
Kariya (Mikawa), 263. 
Kariyasu, 454. 
Karizaka-toge, 148. 
Karugawa, 486. 
Karuizawa, 150, 278. 
Karuizawa -Naoetsu 

Ry., 205. 
Kasadake, 235. 
Kasama, 183. 
Kasamatsu, 274. 
Kasamori, 188. 
Kasaoka, 383. 
Kasatori-toge, 279. 



KAWAJIEI 

Kashii, 425. 
Kashima, 189 ; 336. 
Kashiwabara (Naoetsu 

Ry.), 209. 
Kashiwabara ( Osaka- 

Nara Ry.), 334 ; 57. 
Kashiwabara (Sakurai), 

341. 
Kashiwadai, 451. 
Kashiwagi-zawa, 154. 
Kashiwara-yama, 379. 
Kashiwazaki, 211. 
Kasho, 43. 
Kasnga, 336. 
Kasuga Busshi, 312. 
Kasumi-ga-take, 236. 
Katagiwara, 326. 
Katamachi, 211. 
Katase, 80. 
Katashina-gawa, 180. 
Katata, 328, 329. 
Kato Kiyomasa, 58, 

271, 427, 445, et pass. 
Kato Shirozaemon, 244. 
Katsunuma, 216. 
Katsura, 366. 
Katsura palace, 307. 
Katsura-gawa (Banyu), 

85. 
Katsura-gawa (Izu), 

135. 
Katsura-gawa (Kyoto), 

326 ; 305. 
Katsuragi-yama, 342. 
Katsusa, 424. 
Katsuyama, (Echizen), 

242. 
Katsuyama (Mima- 

saka), 373. 
Kawabashiri, 439. 
Kawachi (Higo), 438, 

439. 
Kawaguchi (Awa), 407, 

410. 
Kawaguchi ( Echigo ) , 

201. 
Kawaguchi (Fuji), 223. 
Kawaguchi (Osaka), 

293. 
Kawaguchi (Tosa), 410. 
Kawai, 466. 
Kawajiri, 472. 



Kawakami (Awaji), 381; 

377. 
Kawakami (Iyo), 402. 
Kawamai, 202. 
Kawano, 217. 
Kawanoe, 405 ; 400. 
Kawara, 429. 
Kawarada, 247. 
Kawara-yama, 417. 
Kawara-yu, 156. 
Kawasaki (Ise), 255. 
Kawasaki (Musashi), 

86. 
Kawashima (Awa), 407. 
Kawashima (Hitachi), 

182. 
Kawatana, 418, 419. 
Kawauchi, 466. 
Kawaura, 236. 
Kawazu-no-hama, 136. 
Kazakoshi-yama, 131. 
Kazuno, 460. 
Kazuraki-yama, 276. 
Kazusa, 182, 282. 
Kazusaka-toge, 181. 
Keage, 329; 251. 
Kegon waterfall, 174. 
Keicho-zan, 196. 
Keigashima, 265. 
Keiki, ex-Shogun, 268. 
Keikwa Ajari, 186. 
Kei-no-Matsubara, 381. 
Keiya, 431. 
Kemanai, 476. 
Kemuri-shima, 380. 
Ken-ga-mine, 144 ; 141. 
Kenninji, 314. 
Ken-no-mine, 208. 
Kenrei Mon-in, 391. 
Kerosene, 212. 
Kesa Gozen, 366. 
Kesen-numa, 467. 
Kibi-toge, 429. 
Kibyu-dani, 236. 
Kiga, 124 ; 122. 
Kii Channel, 284, 379. 
Kiimi-toge, 354. 
Kiire, 443. 
Kikitsu, 423. 
Kikonai, 483. 
Kikuchi, Professor, 198. 
Kikuma, 400. 



Index. 



509 



KIMBO-ZAN 


KOGAWA-GUCHI 


KOMATSU-JIMA 


Kimbo-zan, 429. 


Kitano Tenjin, 301. 


Kogo, 242. 


Kimii-dera, 357. 


Kita-Shirakawa, 


Kogota, 456. 


Kimino, 156. 


Prince, 99, 105, 164. 


Koguchi, 369. 


Kimpu-zan (K 6 s h u), 


Kitataka, 431. 


Ko-gumo-tori, 369. 


214. 


Kita-ura Lagoon, 189. 


Kogyoku, empress, 346. 


Kimpu-zan (Yoshino), 


Kitayama-gawa, 362-4. 


Kohoji, 122. 


276. 


Kita-Yoshimi, 120. 


Koichi, 238. 


Kinkakuji, 302. 


Kitchen, god of, 44. 


Koishikawa, 103. 


Kinko-zan, 318, 330. 


Kiyohime, 360. 


Koishiwara, 430. 


Kinkwa-zan, 464 ; 462. 


Kiyokawa (Koshu), 214. 


Kojigoku (Miyano- 


Kinokawa, 356. 


Kiyokawa (Uzen), 470. 


shita), 124 ; 122. 


Kinokuni-ya Bunzae- 


Kiyomizu-dera, 315. 


Kojigoku (Shimabara), 


mon, 360. 


Kiyomizu-no-taki, 431. 


420, 421. 


Kinomata, 467. 


Kiyomori, 58, etpass. 


Kojiki, 52, 249 ; 43, 


Kinomiya, 134. 


Kiyosu, 263. 


151, 375, 395, et 


Kinomoto (Kishu), 367. 


Kiyosami, 193. 


pass. 


Kinomoto (Mino), 258. 


Kiyotaki (Kyoto), 325. 


Kojima ( Yezo ), 484. 


Kinsho-zan, 275. 


Kiyotaki (Nikko), 172. 


Kojima Takanori, 59. 


Kintaikyo, 390. 


Kiyotsu-gawa, 201. 


Kojimachi, 99. 


Kintoki-zan, 128 ; 122. 


Kiyozuka, 157. 


Kojin, 44. 


Kinugawa, 452; 199. 


Kizawa, 214. 


Kojiro, 423. 


Kinukasa-yama, 303. 


Kizugawa, 328, 340. 


Kokaji, 308. 


Kirakawa, 409. 


Kizuki (BuDgo), 434. 


Kokawa-dera, 355. 


Kirifuri waterfall, 171. 


Kizuki (Izumo), 374. 


Koken, empress, 378. 


Kirigakubo-toge, 202. 


Kizuro, 364. 


Kokoromi-zaka, 325. 


Kiri-ishi, 221. 


Ko-Asama, 152. 


Kokubu, 442. 


Kirin Beer, 10. 


Kobe, 287 ; 277. 


KokubuDJi, 119. 


Kirishima-yama, 443. 


Kobegawa, 375. 


Kokura, 425, 434. 


Kiritsumi, 152. 


Kobiro-toge, 362. 


Kokuzo Bosatsu, 44. 


Kirishitan-zaka, 103. 


Kobo Daishi, 58, 351, 


Koma, 460. 


Kiryu, 160. 


398-9, etpass. 


Komachi (Ono-no-), 60. 


Kisarazu, 190. 


Kobotoke-toge, 215. 


Komachi (Iyo), 401. 


Kisanda, 111. 


Kobu-ga-hara-toge, 177. 


Koma-ga-take (Hako- 


Kishi-Bojin, 43. 


Kobukuji, 339. 


ne), 127 ; 122. 


Kishiwada, 358. 


Kochi (Aki), 383. 


Koma-ga-take (Koshu), 


Kishu, 359, 368-9 ; 283, 


Kochi (Izu), 136. 


228. 


350. 


Kochi (Tosa), 409. 


Koma-ga-take (Biku- 


Kishu family, 356. 


K6chi-no-yu, 217. 


zen), 456. 


Kishu Kaido, 358. 


Kodachi, 147, 223. 


Koma-ga-take (Shin- 


Kiso Kaido, 280. 


Kodaiji, 316. 


shu), 243; 232, 281. 


Kisogawa, river, 274 ; 


Kodate, 386. 


Koma-ga-take (Yezo), 


246, 280, 282. 


Kodogawa, 398. 


481. 


Kisogawa, station, 263. 


Koenami, 379 ; 377. 


Komagino, 215 ; 120. 


Kita-Arima, 424. 


Kofu, 213. 


Komahashi, 215. 


Kita-dake, 226. 


Ko-Fuji, 141. 


Komakata, 159. 


Kitagawa, 440. 


Kofunakoshi, 457. 


Ko-Manago, 177. 


Kita-Gushiyarna, 424. 


Koga (Chikuzen), 425. 


Komatsu (Echigo), 200. 


Kitakami-gawa, 456. 


Koga (Shimosa), 452. 


Komatsu(Iyo), 400. 


Kita-Maruoka, 473. 


Koganei (Shimotsuke), 


Komatsu (Kaga), 259. 


Kitamuki-yama, 437. 


451. 


Komatsu (Kishu), 364. 


Kita - no - Mandokoro, 


Koganei (Tokyo), 119. 


Komatsu (Uzen), 467. 


316. 


Kogawa-guchi, 364. 


Komatsu-jima, 396. 



510 



Index. 



KOMEI 


KUJU-SAN 


KUROIWA 


Komei, emperor, 3, 323. 


Koropok-guru, 488, 


Kukai, 59. 


Komenotsu, 440. 


Kosaka, 476. 


Kuki, 452. 


Kome-no-ura, 259. 


Kosame, 157. 


Kukuno, 233. 


Kominato (Boshu, 193 ; 


Kose, 152. 


Kuma, 432. 


188. 


Koshi, 467. 


Kumada, 438. 


Kominato (Mutsu), 461. 


Koshibu, 229. 


Kumagai, 148. 


Ko-mitake, 143. 


Koshigoe, 80. 


Kumagai Naozane, 60, 


Komoku, 48. 


Koshime - no - Oshima, 


321, 352. 


Komori, 370. 


386. 


Kumagawa, 445. 


Komoro, 205; 153. 


Koshin, 44. 


Kumamachi, 410. 


Kompira (god), 44. 


Koshin-zan, 178. 


Kumamoto, 427 ; 413. 


Kompira (shrines), 398; 


Koshoji, 311, 328. 


Kumano (Izumo), 375. 


35, 89. 


Kosho-san, 429. 


Kumano (Kishu), 359 ; 


Kompira (Ikao), 154. 


Koshu, 213. 


89, 310. 


Kompira-yama (Naga- 


Koshu Kaido, 214, 222. 


Kumano-gawa, 361-5. 


saki), 416. 


Kosugo, 451. 


Kumano-Kaido, 360. 


Komukawa, 228. 


Kotaba, 217. 


Kumanosawa, 234. 


Komuro-zan, 134. 


Kotajima, 396. 


Kumayama, 401. 


Komyoji, 242. 


Kotaki, 178. 


Kume, 400. 


Konabe-toge, 136. 


Kotohira (god), 44. 


Kumihama, 372. 


Kongara Doji, 41. 


Kotohira (shrine), 398, 


Kunaisho, 102. 


Kongobuji, 351, 353. 


399. 


Kunashiri, 489 ; 488. 


Kongo-zan, 342. 


Kotoni, 486. 


Kunisada, 159. 


Konishi Yukinaga, 55, 


Kctsunagi, 474. 


Kuni - toko - tachi, 44, 


296. 


Kowaki-dani, 124 ; 122. 


251. 


K6-no-Amida, 247. 


Koya-san, 351. 


Kuno-zan, 267 ; 56, 163. 


Konodai, 121 ; 61. 


Koyasu, 85. 


Kuradama, 193. 


Konoha, 427 ; 425. 


Koyo-kwan, 98. 


Kurahashi, 345. 


Ko-no-Hana-Saku-ya- 


Koza, 369. 


Kurama-yama, 324. 


Hime, 47, 207, 269. 


Kozenji, 456. 


Kurashiki, 383. 


Konose, 445. 


Kozori, 226-8. 


Kure (Inland Sea), 388. 


Konosu, 120, 148. 


Kozu, 85, 123, 265 ; 4. 


Kure (Tosa), 410. 


Konsei-toge, 180. 


Kozuke-shima, 176. 


Kuriko, 453. 


Konuma, 481. 


Kozu-mura, 186. 


Kurile Islands, 489. 


K6raku-en (Tokyo) , 103. 


Kozu-no-miya, 294, 295. 


Kurino, 443. 


K6raku-en (Okayama), 


Kozushima, 138. 


Kurisu-gawa, 361. 


387. 


Kozuya, 451. 


Kuriyama, 486. 


Kora-san, 432. 


Kublai Khan, 51, 77, 


Kuriyama-go, 173. 


Korean influence, 32, 


426. 


Kurizane-toge, 432. 


35, 96, 304, 320, 334, 


Kubokawa, 410. 


Kurizuka, 451. 


335, 340, 430, 442. 


Kubota, 474. 


Kurobe, 239. 


Korea, invasions of, 55, 


Kucharo, 490. 


Kurobe-toge, 199. 


57, 391. 


Kuchinotsu, 421, 424. 


Kurobira, 214. 


Korean ports, 448 ; 447. 


Kuchiono, 372. 


Kuroda Nagamasa, 426. 


Kori, 454. 


Kudan, 99. 


Kurodani (Hida), 241. 


Koridani, 157. 


Kudo Suketsune, 64. 


Kurodani (Kyoto), 321. 


Korin, 60. 


Kugenuma, 81. 


Kuroe, 360. 


Koriyama (Iwashiro), 


Kugumiya, 432. 


Kurohime, 158, 209. 


452 ; 202. 


Kuhon-butsu, 117. 


Kuroi, 211. 


Koriyama ( Yamato ), 


Kujukuri, 189 ; 185. 


Kuroishi, 476. 


336. 


Ku-ju-ku-tani, 191. 


Kuroiso, 451. 


Koromo-gawa, 458. 


Kuju-san, 436. 


Kuroiwa, 487. 



Index. 



511 



KUEOKAMI 

Kurokami, 442. 
Kurokawa ( Aso - san ), 

437, 438. 
Kurokawa (Iyo), 403. 
Kurokawa ( Shinshu ), 

242. 
Kuronota, 216. 
Kurosaki, 425. 
Kurosawajiri, 458, 472. 
Kurose, 255. 
Kuroshio, 182, 359, 395. 
Kurotawara, 451. 
Kurozawa, 243. 
Kuruma Omura, 373. 
Kuruma-dani, 288. 
Kurume, 427 ; 425, 432. 
Kurumi, 402. 
Kururi, 193. 
Kusakabe, 218. 
Kusatsu (Kotsuke), 156. 
Kusatsu(Omi),276; 249. 
Kushi-ga-mine, 197. 
Kushima-yama, 408. 
Kushimoto, 369. 
Kushiro, 488. 
Kusunoki Masashige, 

60, 291. 
Kute, 234. 

Kutsukake, 152, 278. 
Kutsuzawa, 228. 
Kuwana, 246 ; 245. 
Kuwano, 409. 
Kwaikei, 317, 339. 
Kwammu, emperor, 

298, 317, 336. 
Kwankoba (Tokyo), 92. 
Kwannon, 44, 310, 343, 

et pass. 
Kwannon, cave-temples 

of, 148, 159. 
Kwannon, Twenty- 
eight Followers of, 46. 
Kwannon-dake (Ikao), 

202. 
Kwannon - dake (K6- 

shu), 228. 
Kwannonji, 400. 
Kwannon-no-taki, 418. 
Kwannon-saki, 192, 282. 
Kwannon-toge, 370. 
Kwansei Railway, 247, 

249. 



LOTUS-FLOWERS 

Kwanzeonji, 427. 
Kwaran-taki, 426. 
Kwazan, emperor, 344. 
Kyodomari, 417. 
Kyo-ga-shima, 225. 
Kyoraishi, 222. 
Kyoto, 297 ; 4, 9, 287. 
Kyu-Karuizawa, 150. 
Kyushu, 413 ; 386, 388. 
Kyushu Railway, 425 ; 
392. 



Lacquer, 97, 212, 219, 
460, 461. 

Lagoons, 182, 185,>189, 
452, 474. 

Lake Biwa, 328; 4, 
276, 287. 

Lake Chuzenji, 175. 

Lake Hakone, 122. 

Lake Haruna, 155. 

Lake Hibara, 197-9. 

Lake Inawashiro, 197. 

Lake Kawaguchi, 147, 
223. 

Lake Nojiri, 209. 

Lake Suwa, 279. 

Lake Towada, 476. 

Lake Yumoto, 176. 

Lakes (Hakodate), 481. 

Language, 18, 446, 480. 

Legations, 87, 99, 100. 

Legends, 65, 79, 113, 
151, 207, 221, 247, 
266, 275, 313, 323, 
343, 344, 346, 353, 
360, 363, 365, 371, 
374, 375, 379, 391, 
399, 406, et pass. 

Letters of introduction, 
8. 

Libraries, public, 108. 

Libraries, revolving, 
112. 

Licenses, shooting, 14. 

Long-tailed fowls, 409. 

Loochoo, 445; 3, 106, 
165, 166, 255, 441. 

Lotus-flowers, 90, 105, 
321, 430. 



MARIKO 

Love, god of, 39. 
Lowell, Percival, 242, 

260, 470. 
Luck, gods of, 48, 49. 
Luggage, 10 ; 3, 12. 
Lyric Dramas, 111, 113, 

266, 308. 



M 

Mabechi-gawa, 460. 
Mabuchi, 249. 
Macgowan, Rev. Dr., 

424. 
Machida, 397. 
Macpherson's Hill, 82. 
Madarao, 158. 
Madara-shima, 386. 
Maebaru, 431. 
Maebashi, 149. 
Maeda, 391. 
Maegasu, 246. 
Maegawa, 235. 
Maeyama, 423. 
Maezawa, 458. 
Magari-kawa, 361. 
Magome, 281. 
Magose-zaka, 367. 
Mahayana, 35. 
Maibara, 276 ; 258. 
Maiko, 290, 381. 
Maizuru, 370. 
Maki-ga-hora, 241. 
Makizono, 444. 
Makkura-daki, 171. 
Makomanai, 486. 
Mama Konodai, 121. 
Mania -no-Tekona, 122. 
Mameda, 432. 
Mamihara, 438. 
Mangwanji, 164 ; 163. 
Mannen-bashi, 225. 
Manyoshu, 65, 465. 
Manzawa, 218. 
Maple Club, 98. 
Maples, 90, 120, 161, 

291, 304, 309, 321, 

335, 337, 390. 
Maps, 2, 141. 
Mari, 193. 
Mariko, 118. 



512 



Index. 



MAEINE 


MIKASA-YAMA 


MINES 


Marine Biological La- 


Matsuyama, 401, 410. 


Mikawa (Iwaya), 200. 


boratory, 84. 


Matsuzaki, 137. 


Mikawa (province), 270. 


Marino, 222. 


Matsuzato, 214. 


Mikisato, 367. 


Marishiten, 46, et pass. 


Mausolea of Shoguns ; 


Mikkaichi, 355. 


Marugame, 400 ; 384. 


92, 108, 162, 165, 169. 


Mikkamachi, 241. 


Maruishi-bashi, 238. 


Mausoleum of Jimmu 


Mikumo, 249. 


Maruoka, 258. 


Tenno, 342. 


Mikuni, 259. 


Maruyama ( Kyoto ), 


Maya Bunin, 46, 288. 


Mikuni - toge (Bungo), 


317. 


Maya-san, 288 ; 284. 


440. 


Maruyama ( Sapporo ), 


Me-Akan, 488, 490. 


Mikuni-toge (Echigo), 


486. 


Megane-Bashi, 102. 


201. 


Maruyama (Tokyo), 97. 


Meguro, 116 ; 88. 


Mikura (Akiha), 270. 


Masakado, 61, 103, 186. 


Mei-no-hama, 426, 431. 


Mikura (island), 138, 


Masaki-gawa, 443. 


Mejiro, 88. 


139. 


Massage, 16. 


Menashi-yama, 488. 


Miles (table of), 6. 


Masuda, 451. 


Mendez Pinto, 413, 435, 


Military Academy, 121. 


Masuda-gawa (Buzen), 


442. 


Milk, 10, 361. 


429. 


Mera, 194. 


Milne, Prof. J., 141, 


Masuda-gawa (Hida), 


Mercy, goddess of, 44. 


437. 


233. 


Messageries, 2. 


Mimizu, 440. 


Matahei, Iwasa, 57. 


Metal-work 5 13, 14, 259, 


Mimi-zuka, 311. 


Matoya, 256. 


297. 


Mimpei, 380. 


Mats, 9, 12, 387. 


Mibukawa, 229. 


Minabe, 361. 


Matsubara, 134 


Michizane, 48. 


Minamata, 441. 


Matsubasbi, 445. 


Mida, 46. 


Minami-Arima, 424. 


Matsuchi-toge, 350. 


Midai-gawa, 226. 


Minami-G ushiyama, 


Matsuda (Boshu), 192. 


Mido, 456. 


424. 


Matsuda (Sagami), 130. 


Midogaito, 229. 


Minamoto family, 51 ; 


Matsue, 373, 


Midono, 281. 


42, 52, 61, 67, 290. 


Matsuida, 148, 150, 156, 


Mieno-toge, 439. 


Minato (Awaji), 381 ; 


Matsukawa (Iwashiro), 


Mifune, 438. 


377, 


452. 


Mihara (Bingo), 388; 


Minato (Kazusa), 191. 


Matsukawa (river), 454. 


383, 385. 


Minato-gawa (Hyogo), 


Matsumae, 479. 


Mihara (Kusatsu), 158. 


291. 


Matsune, 471. 


Mihara (volcano), 139. 


Minato-mura, 193. 


Matsushima (Ina Kai- 


Miharu, 202, 452. 


Mine (Inawashiro), 198. 


do), 230. 


Miidera, 330, 329. 


Mine (Yokohama), 81. 


Matsushima (Kyushu), 


Miike, 424, 427. 


Mine-no-Yakushi, 166, 


386. 


Mi-ike, 444. 


335. 


Matsushima (Oki), 376. 


Mikaburi-yama, 224. 


Mineral Springs, 9, 124, 


Matsushima (Sendai), 


Mikado, reigning, 77, 


135, 149, 154, 156, 


461; 456. 


91, 99, 107, 124, 273, 


158, 176, 195, 279, 


Matsumoto, 206 ; 233. 


332. 


372, 402, 420, 421, 


Matsunaga, 383. 


Mikados, 33, 35, 51, 52, 


434, 435, 469, et pass. 


Matsuno, 142, 222. 


56, 186, 301, 309, 341. 


Mines, antimony, 403. 


Matsunoki, 234. 


Mikado's Empire , 2, 61, 


Mines, coal, 4i9, 424, 


Matsuo, 381. 


259. 


425, 427, 431, 486, 


Matsuoka, 242. 


Mi - kaeri - no - A m i d a, 


487. 


Matsushiro, 207. 


320. 


Mines, copper, 178, 180, 


Matsuto, 259. 


Mikami-yama, 276, 330. 


234, 403, 476. 


Matsuyama, 121. 


Mikamo, 373. 


Mines, gold, 212, 476. 


Matsuzaka, 249. 


Mikasa-yama, 340. 


Mines, iron, 467. 



Index. 



513 



MINES 

Mines, manganese, 475. 
Mines, silver, 234, 240, 

372, 454, 473, 476. 
Mineyama, 372. 
Mining, 473. 
Mino, 233, 244, 281. 
Mino, 291. 
Minobu, 219; 62. 
Minpkawa, 423. 
Minoshima, 360. 
Mint, 294. 
Miomote, 468. 
Mio-no-Matsubara, 266. 
Mionoseki, 375. 
Mioya, 323. 
Miroku, 46. 
Mirrors, 33, 251, 271, 

335. 
Misaka-toge (Koshu), 

223. 
Misaka-toge (Mino), 

244, 
Misaki, 84, 138. 
Misato, 225. 
Misen, 349. 

Mishima (lyo), 400, 405. 
Mishima (Izu), 135. 
Mishima Nada, 382, 

399. 
Mission Stations, 50. 
Mississippi Bay, 77, 82. 
Misu, 361. 

Misumi, 402 ; 413, 445. 
Mitai, 439. 
Mitajiri, 391. 
Mitake (Kofu), 214. 
Mitake (Musashi), 217. 
Mitake (Nakasendo), 

282. 
Mitake (Ontake), 242. 
Mitake-yama, 370. 
Mitamura, 217. 
Mitford, A. B., 95, 98, 

185. 
Mito (Hitachi), 184. 
Mito (Izu), 137. 
Mito (princes of), 61, 

100, 103, 104, 184, 

185, 189. 
Mitoko, 386. 
Mitsubishi Company, 

416, 419, 425. 



MOHEJI 

Mitsu-ga-hama, 400 ; 

385, 408. 
Mitsuishi, 383. 
Mitsukuri, 136. 
Mitsumata, 201. 
Mitsuze-yama, 431. 
Miwa, 343. 
Miwatari, 249 ; 245. 
Miwazaki, 365, 369. 
Miya, 271. 
Miyabaru, 445. 
Miyachi, 433. 
Miyagawa, 368. 
Miyagi, 455. 
Miyagino, 124 ; 122. 
Miyai, 363. 
Miyaichi, 391. 
Miyajima, 389. 
Miyake, 138, 139. 
Miyako (Kyoto), 298. 
Miyako (Bikuchti), 466. 
Miyako-jima, 446, 447. 
Miyakonojo, 439. 
Miyako-odori, 297. 
Miyamizu, 439. 
Miyanoharu, 433. 
Miya-no-ichi, 440. 
Miyanokoshi, 280. 
Miyanoshita, 123, 122, 

130 ; 4, et pass. 
Miya-toge, 233. 
Miyazaki, 439. 
Miyazawa, 160. 
Miyazono, 432. 
Miyazu, 371. 
Miyoda, 205. 
Miyodo-gawa, 410. 
Miyoshima, 403. 
Mizaka, 375. 
Mizusawa (Kotsuke), 

154. 
Mizusawa (Bikuchu), 

458. 
Mizusawa (Qzen), 471. 
Mizutani, 242. 
Mobara, 188. 
Mochii, 410. 
Mochizuki, 278. 
Mogami - gawa, 470 ; 

454. 
Mogi, 417. 
Moheji, 484 ; 480. 



MOTOYAMA 

Moji, 392 ; 386, 425. 
Momai, 395. 
Mombetsu, 487. 
Momiji-dera, 289. 
Momiji-yama, 304. 
Momoishi-gawa, 460. 
Momoyama, 309. 
Money, 5. 

MoDgaku Shonin, 366. 
Mongol invasion, 51, 52, 

77, 168. 
Monju, 46. 
Monju-san, 452. 
Monkey god, 44. 
Monkeys, 284, 288. 
Monks, 35. 

Monto sect, 36, 37, 64. 
Monzeki, 64, 304. 
Moou god, 48 ; 32, 50. 
Moon temple, 288. 
Mori (Bungo), 431. 
Mori family, 375. 
Mori, Viscount, 254. 
Mori (Yezo), 487. 
Morioka, 458. 
Morita Myojin, 81. 
Mori-tsuka, 82. 
Moriyama, 423. 
Moriyoshi, prince, 54. 
Morizane, 432. 
Morodomi, 424. 
Moromi-gawa, 426. 
Mororan, 487. 
Morozaki, 250. 
Morse, Prof. E. S., 2, 

87. 
Mortuary temples, 92 ; 

108. 
Moshiriya, 488. 
Moto-Aikai, 470. 
Moto-Hakone, 127, 131. 
Motomiya, 196, 452. 
Motomura, 138, 139. 
Motona, 192. 
Motonobu, Kano, 58. 
Motoori, 249 ; 121. 
Moto-Shirane, 157. 
Motosu lake, 142, 147. 
Motoyama ( Sanuki ), 

395. 
Motoyama (Shinshu), 

280. 



514 



Index. 



MOUNTAIN DISTBICTS 


NAGUI-DAKE 


NAMBU 


Mountain districts, 9, 


N 


Naiku temple, 251, 257. 


226, 232, 348. 




Najima, 426. 


Mou u tain god, 135. 


Naba, 383. 


Nakabaru, 430. 


Mountains between 


Nabari (Iga), 245, 246. 


Nakabata, 143. 


Fujikawa and Ten- 


Nabari (Tosa), 409. 


Naka-dori, 89, 102. 


ryu, 226 ; 12. 


Nafa, 446 ; 445. 


Naka-hechi, 369. 


Mozumi, 240. 


Nabekamuri - y a m a , 


Nakaizumi, 270 ; 230. 


Muda, 349. 


236. 


Nakajo, 238. 


Muen-zuka, 113. 


Nabeshima, 384. 


Naka-Kaido, 282. 


Mugi, 409. 


Nabeshima (family), 99, 


Nakakoba, 423, 424. 


Mugiyama, 217. 


430. 


Naka-Miyori, 199. 


Muikamachi, 201. 


Nachi, 366, 369. 


Nakamura (Awa), 395. 


Mukade-yama, 276, 331. 


Naeba-san, 202. 


Nakamura (Echigo), 


Muk;'„ijima, 385, 388. 


Nae-no-taki, 210. 


468. 


Mukoda, 441. 


Nagahama (Fuji), 147. 


Nakamura (Tosa), 410. 


Mukdjima, 113. 


Nagahama (Iyo), 408. 


Nakamura (Ugo), 470. 


Mukomachi, 263, 326. 


Nagahama (Omi), 333 ; 


Nakano, 119. 


Mukoyama, 125. 


258, 281. 


Nakanogo, 258. 


Mukunoto, 434. 


Nagai, 202. 


Nakanoho, 233. 


Mumai, 241. 


Nagaike, 328. 


Nakano-machi, 230. 


Murakami, 468. 


Nagakubo (Shimotsu- 


Nakanojo, 156. 


Muraoka, 372. 


ke), 451. 


Nakano-shima (Kyli- 


Murasaki Shikibu, 61, 


Nagakubo (Shinshu), 


shu), 386. 


332. 


206, 279. 


Nakanoshima (Osaka), 


Murata rifles, 103. 


Nagamine, 199. 


293. 


Murayama, 143. 


Nagano (Izu), 137. 


Naka-no-shuku, 236. 


Mure, 205. 


Nagano (Shinshu), 207 ; 


Nakano-toge, 201. 


Murotsu, 381. 


158. 


Nakasendo, 277; 148, 


Murozu, 383. 


Nagano-bara, 156. 


206. 


Muryo-in, 103. 


Nagao, 397. 


Nakashima (Inland 


Musashi-mura, 427. 


Nagaoka (Bizen), 383. 


Sea), 385. 


Museums (Tokyo), 87, 


Nagaoka (Echigo), 211; 


Nakashima (Oki), 375. 


100, 102, 106. 


201. 


Nakatsu, 434 ; 433. 


Mushi-yu, 155. 


Nagaoka (Omi), 276. 


Nakatsu-gawa, 243, 281. 


Muslin, 211. 


Nagaoka-no-T e n j i n , 


Nakatsugi, 468. 


Mutsuda, 349. 


325. 


Naka-umi, 373. 


Mutsuki, 385. 


Nagao-toge, 132 ; 128. 


Nakayama (Iyo), 408. 


Muya, 396. 


Nagara-gawa, 246, 275. 


Nakayama ( M u t s u ), 


Myogi-san, 149, 156. 


Nagasaka, 198. 


460. 


Myoji-ga-toge, 432. 


Nagasaki (Hizen), 413. 


Nakayama (Uzen), 469. 


Myojin-dake, 237 ; 232. 


Nagasaki (Uzen), 471. 


Nakayama (Yezo), 484. 


Myojin-ga-take, 129; 


Nagasawa, 224. 


Nakayama Onsen, 259. 


122. 


Nagase-gawa, 197, 198. 


Nakayama-dera, 289. 


My 6 j 6 - ga - 1 ak e , 125; 


Nagasbima, 367. 


Nakayama - toge (Mi- 


122. 


Nagasu, 425, 434. 


kuni-toge), 202. 


Myoken, 201. 


Nagata-cbo, 99. 


Nakazato, 154. 


Myoken-yama (Kazu- 


Nagatsuro, 137. 


Namamugi, 86. 


sa), 191. 


Nagaura, 83. 


Namazu, 156. 


Myoken-zan, 371. 


Nagayo, 418. 


Namba, 293, 295. 


Myoko-zan, 210. 


Nago, 192. 


Nambu (district), 458, 


Myoshinji, 304. 


Nagoya, 271. 


461, 463. 


Myoto-seki, 255. 


Nagui-dake, 460. 


Nambu (Koshu), 218. 



Index. 



515 



NAMEGAWA 

Namegawa, 281. 
Namerikawa, 258. 
Nametoko, 408. 
Namioka, 474. 
Nanae, 481. 
Nanao, 260. 
Nana-taki (Jakko), 171. 
Nana-taki (Nyoho-zan), 

172. 
Nanatsu-mori, 456. 
Nana-ura, 427. 
Naniwa, 293. 
Nansho-zan, 458. 
Nantai-zan, 173, 175. 
Nanto, 336. 
Nanzenji, 320. 
Naoetsu, 211, 258. 
Nara, 336 ; 4, 287. 
Narada, 225, 226. 
Narai, 280. 
Naramoto, 137. 
Narashino, 186. 
Narihira, 61. 
Narita, 186; 39. 
Naruse-gawa, 463. 
Naruto (Channel), 380, 

397. 
Naruto (Kazusa), 188. 
Nashimoto, 136. 
Nasu, 194. 

Nasuno-yama, 196, 452. 
Natsushima, 82. 
Nature-worship, 32. 
Naumann, Dr. E., 150, 

470. 
Naval Colleges, 115, 

388. 
Naval Stations, 82, 370, 

388, 419, 487. 
Naze, 446. 
Nebane, 231. 
Nebara, # 147. 
Nebukawa, 133. 
Negio, 404, 405. 
Negoro-ji, 356. 
Neko-dake, 437 ; 436. 
Nekoya, 267. 
Nemba, 147. 
Nemori, 484. 
Nemuro, 488. 
Neo-dani, 274. 
Neu, 373. 



NISHIKI-GAWA 

Nezu Daimyojin, 83. 
Nezumi Kozo, 113. 
Nezumi-shima, 414. 
Nibu, 395. 
Nibukawa, 400. 
Nibuyama, 192. 
Nichiren,62,80,89,117, 

193, 219, 221, etpass. 
Nichiren sect, 36, 58, 

62, 219. 
Nichiro, 220. 
Nidanai, 482. 
Niekawa, 280. 
Nigishima, 367. 
Nigorigawa-yama, 481. 
Ni-gwatsu-do, 337. 
Nihon-bashi, 102; 91. 
Nihongi, 296, 328. 
Nihonmatsu, 452. 
Niibori, 470. 
Niigata, 212 ; 200. 
Niihama, 400, 403. 
Niimura, 234. 
Niishima, 138, et pass. 
Niita, 410. 
Niitsu, 212. 
Niiya, 408. 
Nijo Palace, 305. 
Nijo-san, 342. 
Nikamura, 476. 
Nikko, 161. 
Nikko Bosatsu, 46. 
Ninigi-no-Mikoto, 207, 

251, 443. 
Ninnaji, 304. 
Ninomiya, 260. 
Ninotaira, 124. 
Nintoku, emperor, 296. 
Ni-6, 46, 48, etpass. 
Nippara, 148, 217. 
Nippon Yusen Kwaisha, 

3, etpass. 
Nirazaki, 222. 
Nire, 158. 
Nirvana, 37. 
Nishi-Akao, 241. 
Nishi-Arie, 424. 
Nishijima, 221. 
Nishikata, 441. 
Nishiki, 369. 
Nishiki-gawa (Iwaku- 

ni), 390. 



NONAKA 

Nishiki-gawa (Kyushu), 

432. 
Nishiki-ura, 134. 
Nishimura, 423. 
Nishi-Nasuno, 194, 452. 
Nishino Buntaro, 254. 
Nishi-no-Kyo, 340. 
Nishinomiya (Haya- 

kawa Valley), 225. 
Nishinomiya (Settsu), 

277, 289, 291. 
Nishi-no-shima, 375. 
Nishi - no - umi ( Fuji), 

147. 
Nishi-no-umi (Nikko), 

176._ 
Nishi-Otani, 314. 
Nishi-Oyama, 433. 
Nishi-Tawara, 371. 
Nitta Yoshisada, 61 ; 

54, 79, 291. 
Niwasaka, 453. 
Niwase, 383. 
Nizaka-toge, 368. 
N5 (drama), 111, 196, 

266, 300, 308. 
Nobara, 434. 
Nobechi, 461. 
Nobeoka, 439. 
Nobiru, 463 ; 457. 
Noboribetsu (Tobetsu), 

487. 
Nobunaga, 61 ; 51, 55, 

325, etpass. 
Nodori-san, 227. 
Nofukuji, 291. 
Nogami-mura, 276. 
Nogata, 425. 
Noge-yama, 77. 
Noguchi, 238. 
Noheji, 461. 
Nojima (Kanazawa), 82. 
Nojima lighthouse, 194. 
Nojiri (Kishu), 368. 
Nojiri (lake), 209. 
Nojiri (N a k a s e n d 6), 

281. 
Nokendo, 81. 
Nokogiri-yama, 191. 
Nomashi, 138, 139. 
Nomugi, 236. 
Nonaka (Kishu), 361. 



516 



Index. 



NONAKA 


OGAWA 


OKADA 


Nonaka (Tajima), 371. 





Ogawa (river), 181. 


None, 409. 




Ogawa (Tango), 370. 


Nonojuku, 472. 


O-Akan, 488, 490. 


Ogawa-no-Yumoto, 181. 


Nopporo, 486. 


Oami (Kazusa), 188. 


Ogawara lagoon, 460. 


Norddeutscher Lloyd, 2. 


Oami (Uzen), 471. 


Oginohama, 464. 


Norikura, 234 ; 232. 


Oarai, 184. 


Ogishima, 384. 


Norokawa, 226, 229. 


Obaku sect, 36. 


Ogita, 476. 


North-East Coast, 466. 


Obaku-san, 328. 


Ogiwara, 281. 


Northern and Southern 


Obama, 421 ; 417. 


Ogo, 160. 


Courts, 52, 54. 


Obanazawa, 473. 


O-gumo-tori, 369. 


Northern Japan, 449 ; 


Obara, 238. 


Oguni, 468. 


9, 55. 


Obara, 455. 


Oguri Hang wan, 63, 


Northern Pacific S. S. 


Oba-sute-yama, 207. 


_ 362. 


Co., 2. 


Obiki-zaka, 367. 


O-Gwannon, temple, 


Northern passage (In- 


Objects of art, 13. 


103. 


land Sea), 385. 


Obonai, 474. 


Ohara (Kotsuke), 181. 


Northern Railway, 451. 


Obree Channel, 386. 


Ohara (Kyoto), 324. 


Noshiro, 475. 


Observatory (Tokyo), 


Ohara-toge, 242. 


Notajiri, 215. 


103. 


Ohasama, 467. 


Noto, 260. 


Obu (Kobe), 289. 


Ohashi, 434. 


Noto-gawa, 276. 


Obu (Owari), 263 ; 250. 


Ohato, 415, 416. 


Notsubara, 436. 


Occidental and Oriental 


Ohechi, 369. 


Notsu-no-saki, 489. 


S.S. Co., 2. 


Ohira, 454. 


Notto, 485. 


Ochiai (Buzen), 429. 


Ohiradai, 123, 124. 


Nouchi, 451. 


Ochiai (Koshu), 218. 


Ohira-gawa, 270. 


Nozawa, 201. 


Ochiai ( Mimasaka ) , 


Ohira-toge, 230. 


Nozoki, 473. 


373. 


Ohito, 135. 


Nozugawa, 136. 


Ochiai ( Nakasendo ) , 


Oi (Doro Hatchd), 364. 


Nukanome, 469. 


281; 244. 


Oi (Nakasendo), 281. 


Nukui-dani-toge, 239. 


Octagonal Hall, 97. 


Oigawa (Kyoto), 325. 


Nurnakunai, 460. 


Oda, 431. 


Oigawa (Tokaido), 270 : 


Nunia-no-taira, 197. 


Odai-ga-hara, 368. 


_230. 


Numao, 157. 


Odaira, 136. 


Oishi Kuranosuke, 98. 


Numasaki, 460. 


Odaira-toge, 230. 


Oiso, 85 ; 64. 


Nurnata, 181. 


Odaki, 453. 


Oita, 435. 


Numazu, 265 ; 135, 137. 


Odate (islet), 386. 


Oitake, 444. 


Nuns (Buddhist), 35, 


Odate (Ugo), 475. 


Oiwake (Buzen), 429. 


207. 


Odawara, 123 ; 78. 


Oiwake (Kyoto), 330. 


Nunobiki (Kobe), 288. 


Odera, 397. 


Oiwake (Shinshu), 153, 


Nunobiki ( Nobeoka ), 


Odo, 156. 


278. 


439. 


Oenami, 379. 


Oiwake (Yezo), 487. 


Nunobiki-no-Kwannon , 


Oeyama, 370 ; 307. 


Oji (Tokyo), 12Q, 451. 


205. 


Ofuji, 218. 


Oji (Yamato), 334. 


Nushima, 379, 396, 397. 


Ofuna, 264 ; 82, 84. 


Oji - Sakurai Railway, 


Nyaku-ichi, 355. 


Ofuna-Yokosuka Rail- 


_ 341. 


Nyoho-zan, 172. 


way, 82. 


Ojigoku (Miyanoshita), 


Nyorai, 46. 


Ofunatsu, 189. 


124 ; 122. 


Nyoirinji, 348. 


Ogaki, 275. 


Ojigoku (Shibu), 158. 


Nyotai-zan, 183. 


Ogasawara, 122. 


Ojigoku ( Tateyarna ), 


Nyu, 351, 355. 


Ogata, 83. 


240. 


Nyukasawa-toge, 229. 


Ogawa (Higo), 445. 


Ojin, 42, 58. 


Nyu-yama, 236. 


Ogawa (Mikawa), 270. 


Okada, 138. 



Index. 



517 



OKAWARA 

Okawara (Akaishi-san), 

_229. 

Okawara (North Ry.), 

451. 
Okayama, 387 ; 373. 
Okazaki (Awa), 396. 
Okazaki (Mikawa), 270. 
Okegawa, 148. 
Old Islands, 375 ; 374. 
Okinawa, 445, 446. 
Oki-no-shima, 284. 
Oki-shima, 384, 414. 
Okitsu, 266. 
Okkai, 181. 
Okoba, 443. 
Okoma-yama, 131. 
Okubo (Awa), 407. 
Okubo (Harima), 383. 
Okubo (Osumi), 443. 
Okubo (Tokyo), 120. 
Okubo Hikozaemon, 
_269. 

Okubo Toshirniclii, 99. 
Okuni-nushi, 46. 
Okushiri, 485. 
Okute, 282. 
Okuwa, 195. 
Okyo, 63, etpass. 
Omaclii, 238. 
Omae-zaki, 131. 
Ornagari, 474. 
Omarna, 160, 178, 180. 
O-Manago, 177. 
Omata, 159. 
Ome Kaido, 118, 216. 
Omi (Etchu), 238. 
Omi (province), 271, 
_328. 

Omi Hakkei, 329. 
Omine, 349 ; 348. 
Omishima, 385. 
Omiya (Chichibu), 148. 
Omiya (Fuji), 140, 147, 
__218. 

Omiya (Junction), 148, 
_451. 

Omiya Hachiman, 119. 
Omogawa, 218. 
Omono-gawa, 472, 473. 
Omori, 87. 
Omori-shima, 376. 
Omura, 419 ; 418, 430. 



OSAWA 

Omuro Gosho, 304. 
Omuro-zan, 134. 
Omuta, 427 ; 425. 
Onagawa, 440. 
Onami-ike, 444. 
Onamuji, 46, et pass. 
Ondo, 388. 
Ongagawa, 425. 
Ongawa, 151, 152. 
Oni, 46. 

Oni-ga-jo (Kishu), 367. 
Oni-ga-jo (Shikoku), 

408. 
Oni-ga-jo (Tamba), 370. 
Oni-no-ike, 441. 
Onna-taka, 229. 
Onnawara, 241. 
Ono, cascade, 281. 
Ono (Aki), 389. 
Ono (Tosa), 410. 
Onoe (Ise), 248. 
Onoe (Takasago), 290. 
Onogawa, 234. 
Onogoro-jima, 379. 
Onoichi-toge, 440. 
Onoki, 245, 246. 
Onomichi, 387 ; 383. 
Onomura, 484. 
Ono-niimachi, 202. 
Ono-no-Komachi, 60. 
Ono-no-Takarnura, 160. 
Onoyama-toge, 358. 
Onsen, 420 ; 413. 
Ontake, 242 ; 232. 
Onuma (Hakodate), 
_481. 

Onuma (Hitachi), 202. 
Onumazaki, 199. 
Onyu, 337. 
Open Ports, 3. 
Opening of river, 89. 
Oranges, 360, 378, 442. 
Orio, 425., 

Osaka (city), 292; 287. 
Osaka (Shikoku), 397. 
Osaka-Nara By., 333. 
Osaka-toge, 361. 
Osaka-yama, 330; 276. 
Osaki-shima, 385. 
Osawa (Fuji), 146. 
Osawa (Rikuchti), 458. 
Osawa (Yezo), 484. 



OWAMI 

Oshamambe, 487; 485. 

Oshima (Inland Sea), 

_385. 

Oshima (Izu), 138. 

Oshima (Kishu), 283. 

Oshima (Loochoo), 446, 

_ 445 ; 63. 

Oshima (Yezo), 485. 

Oshina, 231. 

Qshio, 198. 

Qshu, 458. 

Oshu Kaido, 451. 

Oshuku, 459. 

Osore-zan, 461. 

Ossaka, 233. 

O-sugi-dani, 368. 

Osumi, 413. 

O-Suwa, 414. 

Ota, 282. 

Ota Dokwan, 90. 

Ota Nobunaga, 61, 302. 

Otagawa, 388. 

Otai, 277. 

Otaka, 271. 

Otaki, 476. 

Otani (Hida), 234. 

Otani (Kyoto), 276, 330. 

Otaru, 485. 

Otataneko, 343. 

Otao, 441. 

Otenjo, 350. 

Otobe, 467. 

Otoko-yama, 324, 325. 

Otoku, 157. 

Otogu, 451. 

Otome-toge, 128; 122, 

_265. 

Otomo, Prince, 324. 

Otonashi-g awa, 362, 

_ 363. 

Otd-no-miya, 80. 

Otoshibe, 487. 

Oto - Tachibana - Hime, 

151. 
Otsu (Lake Biwa), 276, 
_324. 

Otsu (Yokosuka), 83. 
Ouchiyama-gawa, 368. 
Outline tours, 68. 
Owada, 185. 
Owaki-dani, 124. 
Owami, 195. 



518 



Index. 



OWARI BAY 


POTTERIES 


REVOLVING LIBRARIES 


Owari Bay, 250. 


Persecutions of Chris- 


Pownall, C. A. W., 150. 


Owari family, 271. 


tians, 52, 259, 413-14, 


Prayer-wheel, 110, 332. 


Owari province, 244. 


417, 424. 


Priestesses, 33, 249, 251. 


Owase, 367. 


Phallic emblems, 83, 


Priests, 33, 35, 374. 


Oyagawa, 270. 


366. 


Printing, 52, 102, 328. 


Oyama Junction, 452 ; 


Phoenix Hall, 327. 


Prisons, 115, 149, 427, 


159. 


Pictorial Arts of Japan, 


455, 489. 


Oyama (Tokaido By.), 


2. 


Processions, 167. 


_265. 


Pigeons, 38, 110. 


Protestant Missions, 50. 


Oyama (Daisen), 373. 


Pilgrimages, 86, 117, 


Proverbs, 161, 322. 


Oyama (Kishu), 369. 


175, 186, 189, 243, 


Provisions, 10. 


Oyama (Sagami), 84. 


245, 251, 270, 344, 


Public Holidays, 3. 


Oyama-bime, 207. 


350, 359, 375, 390, 


Puppet Shoguns, 135 ; 


Oya shirazu Ko shira- 


399, 408, 464, 470, 


51. 


zu, 146. 


471, etpass. 


Purchases, 13. 


Oyasu, 482. 


Pine-trees, 330 ; 266, 


"Pure Shinto," 35, 249, 


Oyu, 181. 


290, 323, 339, 357, 


et pass. 


Oyu, 476. 


371, 379. 




Ozaka, 292. 


Piratori, 487. 


R 


Ozaki, 358. 


Pisciculture, 175, 333. 




Ozasa, 158. 


Plague-God, 256. 


Race-courses, 77, 100, 


Ozawa, 468. 


Plains of Heaven, 81. 


105, 323. 


Ozu, 408 ; 401. 


Plum-blossoms, 90, 114, 


Rafts, 347, 350, 368. 


Ozuchi, 467. 


340. 


Raiden-toge, 485. 


Ozuki, 215. 


Poems, 57, 59, 65, 330, 


Railways, 11. 




337, 344, 357, 460, 


Rakan, 47, et pass. 


P 


465. 


Rakanji, 432. 




Poetical Geniuses 


Rapids, 85, 221, 230, 


Pacific Mail, 2. 


(Thirty-six), 105. 


326, 363, 365, 405, 


Pagodas, 37, et pass. 


Poets, 53, 55, 60, 63, 65. 


439, 440, 445. 


Painters, 54-64, et pass. 


Police, 17. 


Rashomon, 307. 


Palaces (Kyoto), 297-9, 


Politeness, 17, 20. 


Rausu, 489. 


304, 305, 307, 342. 


Ponto, 489. 


Rebellion (Saga), 430. 


Palaces (Tokyo), 101 ; 


Population, 68, 76, 91, 


Rebellion, ( Satsuma ), 


91, 98, 99. 


480. 


63, 441 ; 439, 440. 


Paper, 120, 405, 410. 


Porcelain (Arita), 420. 


Rebunge, 487. 


Paper money, 5. 


Porcelain ( Kutani ), 


Red Bridge, 164. 


Paper symbols, 33. 


259. 


Red Cross Hospital, 99. 


Pappenberg, 414 ; 387. 


Porcelain (Owari), 244, 


Regalia, Imperial, 271. 


Pariah class, 113. 


272. 


Regular routes, 71. 


Parks (Tokyo), 92, 104, 


Porcelain ( Satsuma ), 


Rehige, 484. 


110. 


442. 


Reiganjima, 88, 138. 


Passports, 3, 16, 287, 


Porcelain (Yatsushiro), 


Reiheishi Kaido, 148, 


413, 447, 483. 


445. 


161. 


"Peak" (Hakodate), 


Poronai, 486. 


Rein, Dr. J. J., 2, 141, 


480. 


Port Lazareff, 448. 


242, 395, 413, 473. 


Peninsular and Orien- 


Portuguese in Japan, 


Religions, 32, 34, 35, 50. 


tal S. S. Co., 2. 


52, 166, 413, 414. 


Rendaiji, 136. 


Peonies, 90, 294, 345. 


Post Office, 5. 


Restaurants, 8. 


Perry, Commodore, 52 ; 


Potteries, 244, 246, 259, 


Reviews, military, 99. 


1, 76, 83, 136. 


297, 318, 330, 379, 


Revolving Libraries,. 


Perry Island, 82. 


420, 430. 


112. 



Index. 



519 



RHODODENDRONS 

Rhododendrons, 229, 

364. 
Rhys Davids, Prof., 47. 
Rice crops, 395, 430, 

474. 
Rice, goddess of, 43. 
Richardson affair, 86, 

441. 
Riess, Dr. L., 414. 
Rikuzen, 455. 
Rin Shihei, 462. 
Rinnoji, 164 ; 163. 
Rinzai sect, 36, 316. 
Roads, 11. 
Rock Island, 283. 
Rokkauchi-yama, 458. 
Rokken, 249 ; 246. 
Rokko-san, 291. 
Roku-bu-ten, 47. 
Rokugo, 86. 
Roku-ju-ri-goe, 471. 
Rokumei-kwan, 87, 100. 
Rokuren, 386. 
R6nins,'54, 98. 
Rosetsu, 361, 369. 
Roshana, 310, 339. 
Rosoku-iwa, 151. 
Routes (Fixed), 71 ; 4. 
Rugs (Sakai), 296; 292. 
Russian Cathedral, 100. 
" Russian Hill," 416. 
Russian Mission, 51. 
Ryoan, 129. 
Ryobu Shinto, 34. 
Ryo-Daishi, 109. 
Ryogoku-bashi, 113. 
Ryomo Railway, 159. 
Ryoseki, 407. 
Ry6-un-kaku, 112. 
Ryugai-yama, 170. 
Ryujin, 369. 
Ryukyu, 446. 
Ryuzai-toge, 347. 
Ryuzan-jita, 239. 
Ryuzu-ga-taki, 176. 

s 

Sabayama, 391. 
Sadamitsu, 405, 407. 
Sado, 212. 
Saga (Kyoto), 305. 



Saga (Kyushu), 430. 
Sagami peninsula, 84. 
Sagami-gawa, 76, 85. 
Saganoseki, 383. 
Saga-no-Shaka-dd, 305. 
Saghalien, 488. 
Sago-palm, 296, 446, et 

pass. 
Saidaiji, 340. 
Saigawa, 207, 238, 280. 
Saigo, General, 63, 441; 

439. 
Saigo (Oki), 376. 
Saigu, 249. 
Saigyo Hoshi, 63. 
Saijo, 402 ; 400. 
Saijoji, 128 ; 122. 
Saikyo, 91, 297. 
Sail Rock, 485. 
Sai-no-ike, 377. 
Sai-no-kawara, 157. 
Saitojo, 429. 
Sakai (Echizen), 259; 

258. 
Sakai (Izumi), 296. 
Sakai (Izumo), 373. 
Sakai (Musashi), 119. 
Sakai (Yezo), 485. 
Sakaide, 384. 
Sakai-gawa, 358. 
Sakaime-toge, 405. 
Sakaki, 205. 
Sakakibara family, 210. 
Sakamoto, 331 ; 324. 
Sakanashi, 436. 
Sakashita (Akiha), 270. 
Sakashita (Uzen), 467. 
Sakata, 471 ; 212. 
Sakawa-gawa, 265. 
Sake-brewing, 277, 387, 

427, 465. 
Saki, 368. 
Sakihama, 409. 
Sakishima, 446. 
Sakunami, 469. 
Sakura, 185. 
Sakura Sogoro, 185, 

186. 
Sakurai (Kano-zan), 

191. 
Sakurai (Kisarazu) , 190. 
Sakurai (Shikoku), 400. 



SARUTA-HIKO 

Sakurai (Yamato), 343. 

Sakura-jima, 442 ; 440. 

Sakusa, 375. 

S'akya Muni, 47. 

Salmon, 15, etpass. 

Samban, 387. 

Sambeyama, 375. 

Sambon-matsu (Nara), 
245, 246. 

Sambon-matsu (Sanu- 
ki), 395. 

Sambutsu-do, 164. 

Sandals, 9. 

Sandanda, 431. 

Sando-gawa, 368. 

Sanetomo, 67. 

Sangen-jaya, 423. 

Sangu Tetsudo, 250. 

San-gwatsu-do, 337. 

San-indo, 373. 

Sanjo, 211. 

San-ju-san-gen-do, 309. 

San-kei, 371, 390, 461. 

Sannagi, 244. 

Sanno (god), 46, 99. 

Sauno (Lake Biwa), 
325, 331. 

Sannohe, 460. 

Sannokura, 156. 

Sannomiya, 277, 287. 

San-no-sawa, 157. 

Sanno-toge, 200. 

Sano (Awa), 405. 

Sano (Izumi), 358. 

Sano (Temrnyo), 159. 

Sano (Tokaido Rail- 
way), 265; 130, 135. 

Sanuki, 395, 397. 

Sanyo Ry., 383; 290. 

Sanyodo, 373. 

Sanzai, 350. 

Sapporo, 186; 479. 

Saratoga Spit, 282. 

Sardines, 408. 

Saris, Capt. John, 293. 

Sarufuto, 487. 

Saruhashi, 215. 

Saru-ga-kyo, 202. 

Sarusawa-no-Ike, 340. 

Sarushima, 82. 

Saruta-hiko, 47, 179, 
336. 



520 



Index. 



SARUTA-YAMA 

Saruta-yama, 417. 
Sasadaira, 238. 
Sasago-toge, 216. 
Sasagoya, 471. 
Sasakura, 436. 
Sasa-no-toji, 421. 
Sasazu, 240. 
Sasebo, 419 ; 413. 
Sashide, 218. 
Sashiki, 420. 
Sashikiji, 138. 
Satake Yashiki, 113. 
Satin, 160. 
Satow, Ernest M., 21, 

36, 41, 42, 84, 103, 

363, 391. 
Satoyama, 460. 
Satsuma, 441 ; 32, 413. 
Satsuma-Fuji, 440. 
Satta-toge, 267. 
Sawada, 136. 
Sawai, 217. 
Sawara, 188. 
Sawatari, 156, 157. 
Sculptors, 55, 58, 65, 

79. 
Sea-Gods, 48, 65, 102, 

151, 296. . 
Sea-weed, 479, 489. 
Seba, 280 ; 206. 
Sects (Buddhist), 36. 
Seido, 102. 
Seimi-yama, 396. 
Seiryo-den, 299. 
Seiryuji, 305. 
Seishi, 47. 
Seishikaga, 490. 
Sei-Shoko, 58. 
Seismological Society, 

437. 
Seitaka Doji, 41. 
Seki (Echigo), 201. 
Seki (Hida Kaido), 233 
Seki (Ise), 249. 
Seki (Yokohama), 81. 
Sekiba, 453. 
Sekida, 202. 
Sekido, 118. 
Seki-ga-hara, 275 ; 56. 
Sekigawa, 209. 
Sekimoto, 129. 
Sekinomiya, 372. 



SETTLEMENTS 

Sekinoto, 405. 
Sekison-san, 85. 
Sekiya, Prof., 198. 
Sekiya (Shiobara), 194. 
Sekiyama (Echigo), 210. 
Sekiyama (Uzen), 469. 
Seko, 238. 
Seko-no-taki, 136. 
Semi-maro, 330. 
Semine, 451. 
Semmaya, 467. 
Semmi, 238. 
Senda, 188. 
Sendai (Northern Ry.), 

455. 
Sendai (Satsurna), 440. 
Sendai-gawa, 443. 
Sendai-Ragi, 456. 
Sengakuji, 98. 
Sengen (goddess), 47, 

134, 144, 269. 
Sengen-dake, 484. 
Sengen-toge, 148. 
Sengen-yama (Ikao), 

155. 
Sengen-yama (Izu), 
134. 

Sengoku, 128 ; 122. 

Senjo-ga-hara, 176; 174. 

Sen jo - ga - take ( Noro- 
kawa), 227. 

Senjo-ga-take (Tamba), 
370. 

Sen-no-Rikyu, 296. 

Sensoji, 109. 

Senzan, 378. 

Sen-yuji, 309. 

Senzoku, 117. , 

Senzu, 138, 139. 

Serigawa, 276. 

Servants, 5, 7. 

Sessho-ga-wara, 157. 

Sessho-seki, 196. 

Sesshu, 63, 399. 

Seta, 331 ; 329. 

Setagawa, 276. 

Setaka, 427. 

Seto (Bizen), 383. 

Seto (Owari), 244 ; 231. 

" Seto-no-uchi," 382. 

Seto-zaki, 361. 

Settlements, Foreign, 3. 



Seven Isles of Izu, 138. 
" Seven Wonders," 226, 

390. 
Se-yama, 347, 358. 
Sezawa, 229. 
Shaka Muni, 47 ; 36, 

42, 44. 
Shaka-ga-take, 349. 
Shakotan, 485. 
Shakujo-ga-take ( Ise ), 

249. 
Shakujo-ga-take ( Nik- 

ko), 173. 
Shakusonji, 205. 
Shampooers, 16. 
Shana, 489. 
Shari, 490. 
Sharihotsu, 48. 
Shari-yama, 288. 
Shell-heaps, 87. 
Shiba, 92. 
Shiba Onko, 187. 
Shiba Rikyu, 87. 
Shibahara-toge, 201. 
Shibayama, 188. 
Shibetcha, 489. 
Shibetsu, 490. 
Shibiri-toge, 229. 
Shibu, 158 ; 157. 
Shibukawa, 154, 182. 
Shibu-toge, 158, 209. 
Shibuya, 88, 99. 
Shichi Fukujin, 48, 49. 
Shichi - h o n -matsu- 

zaka, 282. 
Shichimen-zan ( Mino- 

bu), 220, 225. 
Shichimen-zan (Naga- 
saki), 416. 
Shichimen-zan (Yama- 

to), 349. 
Shichi-ri-ga-hama, 80. 
Shichi-ri-g a - s h i m a , 

388. 
Shiga (Kishu), 355. 
Shiga (prefecture), 330. 
Shigemori, 58. 
Shigeoka, 440. 
Shigi-sen, 334. 
Shiida, *33. 
Shiiya, 211. 
Shijo, 298, 299. 



Index. 



521 



SHIJO SCHOOL 

Shijo school, 63, 64, 312. 
Shi-ju-has-saka, 369. 
Shiken-jaya, 346. 
Shikine, 139. 
Shikoku, 395; 384, et 

seq. 
Shikonoppe, 482. 
Shinia (Ikao), 155. 
Shima (province), 256, 

283, 368. 
Shimabara, 420, 423. 
Shimada, 270. 
Shimane, 375. 
Shimanto-gawa, 410. 
Shimashima, 206, 236. 
Shimazaka, 429. 
Shimazu Saburo, 86. 
Shimbashi, 87. 
Shimei-ga-take, 324. 
Shimizu (Kishu), 360, 

369. 
Shimizu (Suruga), 266. 
Shimmachi (Harinoki- 

toge), 238. 
Shimmachi ( Hyuga ) , 

439. 
Shimmachi (Kotsuke), 

148. 
Shimmei, 39. 
Shimmei-mae, 92. 
Shimo-Abukawa, 474. 
Shimoda (Izu), 136. 
Shimoda (Mutsu), 460. 
Shimoda (Yamato), 

341. 
Shimodate, 183. 
Shimo-Fukui, 409. 
Shimo-Gamo, 323. 
Shimohara, 233. 
Shimo-ike, 275. 
Shimo-Kaido, 282. 
Shimo-Kuribara, 216. 
Shimo-Miyamori, 467. 
Shimomura, 345. 
Shimo-Nashi, 241. 
Shimo-no-doi, 410. 
Shimonoseki, 392 ; 386. 
" Shimonoseki Affair," 

391. 
Shimonosho, 247. 
Shimo-no-Suwa, 279 ; 

230. 



SHIONADA 

Shimosa, 182. 
Shimo-Sannokura, 156. 
Shimoseno, 383. 
Shimo-Tsutaki, 222. 
Shimoyama, 410. 
Shimo-Yoshida, 144. 
Shimo-Yujima, 225. 
Shimozato, 369. 
Shin sect, 36, 64. 
Shinagawa, 87. 
Shinai-numa, 456. 
Shinano-gawa, 207, 278. 
Shindachi, 358. 
Shingon sect, 36 ; 33, 

59, 307, et pass. 
Shingu, 365 ; 359, 369. 
Shinjiko lagoon, 374. 
Shinjiku, 88, 119. 
Shinjo (M i m a s a k a ), 

373. 
Shinjo (Kikuoku), 473; 

470, 474. 
Shin-Karuizawa, 150. 
Shin-Minato, 390 ; 389. 
Shin-no-Jofuku, 365. 
Shinnyo-do, 322. 
Shinobazu, 105. 
Shinobu, 453. 
Shinomizu, 436. 
Shinonoe, 205. 
Shinran Shonin, 64, 99, 

247, 314, 317. 
Shinritsu, 407. 
Shinshu, 36, 64. 
Shinto religion, 32, 35, 

245, et pass. 
Shinto revival, 61, 214, 

249, 253, 342, et pass. 
Shin-yu, 127. 
Shiobara, 194. 
Shiogama (Matsu- 

shima),462; 457,461. 
Shiogama ( Shiobara ), 

195. 
Shiogawa, 222. 
Shioi, 429, 430. 
Shiojiri, 280 ; 230. 
Shiokawa, 198. 
Shiokosbi, 472. 
Shiokubi, 480. 
Shio-Misaki, 284. 
Shionada, 278. 



SHIZUHABA 

Shio-no-ue, 225. 
Shionoyu, 195. 
Shiotsu, 358, 360. 
Shiozawa, 201. 
Shipment of goods, 14. 
Shirahama, 194. 
Shirahone, 235. 
Shiraichi, 383. 
Shiraishi (Iwaki), 454. 
Shiraishi (Yezo), 486. 
Shiraishi-no-take, 463. 
Shiraito (Aso-san), 437. 
Shira-ito (Fuji), 147. 
Shira-ito (Nikko), 170. 
Shirakawa (Hida), 241. 
Shirakawa (Higo), 427. 
Shirakawa (Himeji), 

290. 
Shirakawa (Iwaki), 452. 
Shirakawa (Uzen), 468. 
Shirako, 194. 
Shirane (Koshu), 226. 
Shirane (Kusatsu), 157. 
Shirane (Nikko), 177. 
Shiranu-hi, 424. 
Shiraoi, 479, 486. 
Shira-taki, 436. 
Shiratori-san, 444. 
Shirazawa (Harinoki 

Pass), 238. 
Shirazawa (Ugo), 474. 
Shiribetsu, 485. 
Shirikishinai, 482. 
Shiriuchi (Mutsu), 460. 
Shiriuchi (Yezo), 484. 
Shirisawabe, 480. 
Shiroi, 182. 
Shiroshima, 386. 
Shiroyama (Hizen), 

419. 
Shiroyama (Kago- 

shima), 441. 
Shishido, 182. 
Shishigase-toge, 360. 
Shishikui, 409. 
Shishinden, 300. 
Shitamura, 472. 
Shi-Tenno, 48 ; 47. 
Shitta Taishi, 47. 
Shittokari, 487. 
Shizu, 471. 
Shizuhara, 324. 



522 



Index. 



SHIZUKA GOZEN 


SUBURBAN RAILWAY 


SUPERSTITIONS 


Shizuka Gozen, 111. 


Snow, 9, 209, 210, 212, 


Suegawa, 242. 


Shizuki, 378 ; 377. 


461, 479. 


Sue - no - matsu - yama, 


Shizuku-ishi, 459. 


So, 238. 


460. 


Shizuoka, 268. 


Soami, 320, 322. 


Sugabu, 436. 


Shobu-no-hama, 176. 


Sobo-san, 438. 


Sugar-cane, 266, 396, 


Shodaiji, 340. 


Sobutsu-yama, 85. 


397. 


Shobara, 374. 


Sochiho-san, 458. 


Sugaruga, 437. 


Shdden, 397. 


Soga Brethren, 64, 126, 


Sugawara-no-Michiza- 


Shodo Shonin, 162, et 


131. 


ne, 48, 426, et pass. 


seq. 


Soga-no-Iruka, 346. 


Sugi, 410. 


Shodoshima, 380, 384, 


So-gawa-fuchi, 214. 


Suginahata, 472. 


et pass. 


Soga-yama, 125. 


Sugita, 82. 


Shoguns, 51, 67, 268, et 


Soida, 429. 


Suiko, empress, 35. 


pass. 


Sokokura, 124. 


Suimon (Hakone), 132. 


Shogun-zuka, 317. 


Solfataras, 124, 196, 


Suisho-zan, 280. 


Shogyo Bosatsu, 114. 


422, 435, 438, 489. 


Suita, 263. 


Shoji lake, 142, 147. 


Soma-yama, 155. 


Suitengu, 102 ; 89. 


Shojiku-take, 429. 


S6meu-ga-taki, 170. 


Suizenji, 427. 


Shojo (demons), 111. 


Sone (Buzen), 433. 


Sujin, emperor, 345. 


Shojoken, 80. 


Sone (Harima), 290. 


Sukagawa (Iwashiro), 


Shokonsha, 100 ; 89. 


Sone (Kishu), 367. 


452. 


Shomu, emperor, 338. 


Sonejiro, 367. 


Sukagawa (Kdtsuke). 


Shooting, 14, 480. 


Sonenji, 122. 


181. 


Shops, 13. 


Sonetaro, 367. 


Sukegawa, 202. 


Shoso-in, 339; 107. 


Sonobe, 370. 


Suketo, 396. 


Shotoku Taishi, 64, 334, 


Sonogi, 419, 430, 431. 


Sukumo, 410. 


et pass. 


S6-on Jigoku, 125. 


Sukumo-gawa, 131. 


Shoun, 114. 


Sorachifuto, 486, 490. 


Sukuna-Bikona, 48. 


Shozuka no Baba, 43. 


Sori, 179. 


Suma, 290, 382. 


Shubun, 64. 


Sorinto, 164, 165. 


Sumaki, 195. 


Shugaku-in, 324. 


Sosen, 64. 


Sumida-gawa, 113. 


Shujaku, emperor, 186. 


Soto sect, 36. 


Sumitomo family, 404. 


Shuko, 322. 


Southern passage (In- 


Sumiyoshi (Kobe), 277. 


Shumi-sen, 207. 


land Sea), 385. 


Sumiyoshi (Sakai), 296. 


Shumshu, 489. 


So war a, 431. 


Suixriyoshi (Yezo), 486. 


Shuri, 446. 


Soya, 490. 


Summer resorts, 9, 12, 


Shusui, 186. 


Special ports of export, 


130, 151, 154, 156, 


Shuzenji, 135. 


246, 259, 424, 488. 


161, 290, 291, 390, 


Shuzu, 406. 


Spex Straits, 386. 


420, et pass. 


Siebold, 417. 


Sport, 14, 15, et pass. 


Sumoto, 378 ; 377. 


Sights, principal, 12. 


St. John, Capt., 366. 


Sumpu, 268. 


Silk districts, 120, 149, 


Staircases, men's and 


Sunago-yama, 288. 


159, 206, 215, 259, 


women's, 98. 


Sun-Goddess, 39; 32, 


425, 434, 452, 453. 


Staten Island, 489. 


208, 248, 251, 338. 


Simon Condera, 426. 


Statues, 304-321, 334, 


Sunosaki, 194. 


Siva, 41, 221. 


339, 340, 348. 


Superstitions, 104, 114, 


Sixteen Rakan, 47, et 


Steam Communication, 


127, 167, 168, 170, 


pass. 


2, et pass. 


185, 189, 229, 234, 


Skating, 9, 127. 


Stone slabs, 39, 44. 


247, 251, 254, 257, 


Skeleton tours, 68. 


Shlpa, 38. 


279, 295, 296, 312, 


Skins, 162, 281. 


Subashiri, 144. 


323, 336, 345, 390, 


Smoking, 12, 365. 


Suburban Railway, 88. 


407, 464. 



Index. 



523 



SURIKAMI-GAWA 


TAKATORI 


TAMUKE-YAMA 


Surikami-gawa, 453. 


Taikomori, 476. 


Takatori (Yamato), 347. 


Suruga-dai, 91, 100. 


Taiko-yama, 126. 


Takatsuki (Kyoto), 263. 


Susaki (Awaji), 380. 


Tailors (Chinese), 9. 


Takatsuki (Omi), 258. 


Susaki (Tokyo), 115. 


Tai-no-ura, 193. 


Takauji, Ashikaga, 54, 


Susaki (Tosa), 410. 


Taira, 202. 


291, 303. 


Susami, 369. 


Taira family, 52, 58, 


Takayama, 234. 


Susa-no-o, 48; 32, 39, 


67, 290, 391. 


Takayu, 453. 


44, 256, 271, 368, 374. 


Taishaku, 48 ; 47. 


Takazaki, 435. 


Suttsu, 485. 


Tajikara-o- no - Mikoto, 


Take, 442. 


Suwa, god of, 207. 


208, 251. 


Takebu, 238. 


Suwa (Kusatsu), 157. 


Tajima (Aizu), 200. 


Takeda (Bungo), 436. 


Suwa Lake, 279. 


Tajima (province), 287. 


Takeda (Tajima), 372. 


Suwara, 281. 


Tajimi, 244. 


Takeda Shingen, 213, 


Suwa-yama, 288. 


Tajiro, 425. 


352. 


Suwo Nada, 382. 


Takaboko, 414. 


Takefu, 259. 


Suyama, 147. 


Takachiho, 443. 


Take-ga-hana, 274. 


Suzaka, 158. 


Takada, 275. 


Take-ga-oka, 191. 


Suzuka-toge, 247, 249. 


Takahagi, 202. 


Takehara, 388. 


Suzukawa, 266 ; 140. 


Takahara, 200. 


Take-mika-zuchi, 189, 


Swords, 14, 53, 91, 100, 


Takahara-gawa, 240. 


336. 


308, 438, 443-4. 


Takahara-yama, 196. 


Takenomachi, 211. 




Takahashi-yama, 465. 


Takeno-toge, 436. 




Takahira, 181. 


Take-no-uchi, 134. 


T 


Takai-iwa, 422, 423. 


Takenouchi - no - Saku- 




Takama-no-hara, 189. 


ne, 65. 


Tabayama, 218. 


Takamatsu, 398 ; 383. 


Takeo, 420 ; 413, 431. 


Tabiishi-yama, 374. 


Takami-toge, 350. 


Takeshita, 439. 


Tabiko, 202. 


Takamiya, 247. 


Taketoyo, 250. 


Tachibana-ura, 396. 


Takamori, 438. 


Takihara Gu, 368 ; 253, 


Tachibo, 137. 


Takano-niachi, 223. 


255. 


Tachikawa, 139, 216. 


Takao (courtesan), 195, 


Takijiri, 136. 


Tada-no-Manju, 352. 


456. 


Takimoto, 409. 


Tadehara, 370. 


Takao (Kyoto), 304. 


Taki-no-gawa, 120. 


Tado (Kishu), 364. 


Takaoka (Etchu), 259. 


Takinomiya, 398. 


Tado (Kuwana), 247. 


Takaoka (Tosa), 410. 


Takino-o, 170. 


Tadotsu, 400 ; 384. 


Takao-zan, 120. 


Taki-no-yu, 195. 


Taenia Chujo - Hime, 


Takarazuka, 289. 


Takizaka, 128. 


321. 


Takasago, 290. 


Takko, 476. 


Taenia Fujin, 380. 


Takasaki, 148. 


Tales of Old Japan, 95, 


Taga, 381. 


Takase, 427 ; 425. 


98, 185. 


Taga-no-J6, 462. 


Takase-gawa, 431. 


Tallow-trees, 356. 


Tagawa-yu, 469. 


Takashima (Nagasaki), 


Tamagawa, 216; 86,91. 


Tagiri, 209. 


419 ; 387. 


Tamaiguchi, 364. 


Tago , 137. 


Takashima (Yezo), 488. 


Tamaki-san, 364. 


Tago-no-ura, 266. 


Takata (Echigo), 210. 


Tamashima, 383. 


Tagori-hime, 168, 170. 


Takata (Yamato), 341. 


Tamashita, 434. 


Taguchi (Echigo), 209. 


Takata sect, 247. 


Tamatsukuri, 374. 


Taguchi ( Kirishima ), 


Takata-gawa, 373. 


Tamayori-Hime, 323. 


443. 


Takato, 229. 


Tamba, 305, 326. 


Taho, 42. 


Taka-toge, 134. 


Tametomo, 138, 446. 


Taiko Hideyoshi, 55, et 


Takatoku, 200. 


Tamon, 48 ; 39. 


pass. 


Takatori (Kobe), 289. 


Tamuke-yama, 337. 



524 



Index. 



Tamuki, 471. 
Tamura, 431. 
Tamura Maro, 65, et 

pass. 
Tanabe (Iwaki), 202. 
Tauabe (Kishu), 361. 
Tauabe Sakuro, 329. 
Tanaka, 205, 278. 
Tanakami-zan, 330. 
Tanami, 369. 
Tanashita, 180. 
Tanegashima, 4-42. 
Tanegawa, 434. 
Tanigumi-dera, 275. 
Tankai, 309, 346. 
Tannowa, 358. 
Tanono, 410. 
Tanoura (Kagoshima) , 

442. 
Tanoura (Shirnono- 

seki), 391. 
Tan-yu, Kano, 58, 165. 
Tanzawa, 85. 
Tapirs, 165. 
Taradake, 421. 
Tarobo, 143. 
Taro-zan, 173, 177. 
Tarui, 275. 
Tarumi, 442. 
Tarusaka-yama, 246. 
Tashiro (Rikuchu), 466. 
Tashiro (Shinshii), 158. 
Tashiro-gawa, 229. 
Tassobe, 467. 
Tate, 484. 
Tateishi, 434. 
Tateishi-zaki, 258. 
Tateno, 433. 
Tateoka, 473. 
Tatesbina-yama, 223. 
Tateyama, mountain, 

239; 54. 
Tateyama, town, 192. 
Tatsukawa, 403 ; 400. 
Tatsumachi, 281. 
Tatsumi, cape, 440. 
Tatsuno, 383. 
Tatsuta (Tatta), 335. 
Tawara Toda Hidesato, 

186, 331. 
Tawara-yama, 437. 
Tawara-zaka, 427. 



THINGS JAPANESE 

Taya-no-ana, 84. 

Tazawa, 468. 

Tazura, 397. 

Tea, 268, 327. 

Tea Ceremonies, 244, 

296, 307, 322. 
Tea-bouses, 8. 
"Tea-money," 7. 
Telegraphs, 5. 
Telephones, 5. 
Temiya, 485, 486. 
Temma, 369. 
Temmangu, 48, 114. 
Temmu, emperor, 276. 
Temmyo, 159. 
Tempai-zan, 427. 
Temperature, 9. 
Temples, 12, 33, 37, et 

paSS. 

Temples, periodical re- 
building of, 189. 

Temples, "purification" 
of, 35, et pass. 

Tempo-zan, 347. 

Ten Province Pass, 131; 
122. 

Tendai sect, 36, 54. 

Tendo, 469. 

Tenga-jaya, 295. 

Tengu-take, 484. 

Tenjin, 48, 426, et pass. 

Tenjin (Awaji), 381. 

Tenjin-toge, 155. 

Tenjin-yama (Kazusa), 
191. 

Tenjin-yama (Yamato), 
343. 

Tennin, 50. 

Tenno-no-Mori, 380. 

Tennoji, 294, 333. 

Tenno-zan, 325; 324. 

Tenoko, 468. 

Tenryu-gawa, 230, 270. 

Tenryuji, 305. 

Ten-Shoko-Daijin, 39. 

Teradomari, 211. 

Terai, 259. 

Terute Hime, 63, 362. 

Teshima, 384. 

Theatres, 87, 91, 292. 

Things Japanese^ 2, 54, 
98, 275, 399, 



TOKUDO SHONIN 

"Thirteen Provinces 

round Fuji," 141 ; 4. 
Thirty - six Geniuses, 

105, 302. 
Thirty - three Holy 

Places of Eastern 

Japan, 344 ; 154. 
Thirty-three Places 

sacred to Kwannon, 

343, et pass. 
Tidal waves, 79, 115, 

136, 193. 
Timber-felliDg, 347, 349. 
Tips, 7, 17. 
Toba, 256. 
Tobacco, 442. 
Toba -no -In, emperor, 

196, 310. 
Toba Sojo, 65. 
Tobe, 402. 
Tobetsu (Noboribetsu), 

486. 
Tochigi, 159. 
Tochinoki Shinjoi, 437. 
Todaiji, 338 ; 107. 
Todeno, 407. 
Todohokke, 482. 
Todoroki (Kishu), 369. 
Todoroki (Koshu), 216. 
Tofukuji, 309. 
Togakushi-san, 208. 
Togami, 161. 
Togane, 188. 
Togawa, 401. 
Togeshita, 482. 
Togo-ike, 372. 
Tohita, 437. 
Toi (Izu), 137. 
Toi (Yezo), 482. 
Toji, 307. 
T6ji-in, 303. 
Toka-ichiba, 215. 
Tokaido, 264; 86, 130, 

135, 246, 247, 329. 
Tokaido Railway, 263. 
Tokei, 87, 91. 
Tokimata, 230. 
Tokitsu, 417, 418. 
Tokiwa, 58. 
Tokkaichi, 383. 
Tokonabe, 244. 
Tokudo Shonin, BU. 



Index. 



525- 



TOKUGAWA DYNASTY 


TSUKIJI 


UENOHAEA 


Tokugawa dynasty, 92 ; 


Toro-daki, 426. 


Tsukijima, 291. 


52. 


Tortoises, 296, et pass. 


Tsukinoki, 451. 


Tokugo-toge, 236 ; 233. 


Tosa province, 395. 


Tsukuba, 183 ; 182. 


Tokushima, 396, 407. 


Tosa school, 321. 


Tsukue, 381 ; 377. 


Tokusue, 431. 


Tosawa, 134. 


Tsumago, 281 ; 230. 


Tokuyama, 383. 


Toshima, 138, 283. 


Tsunagi (Aizu) 199. 


Tokyo, 87, 91 ; 4, 9. 


Toshimura, 256. 


Tsunagi ( Rikuchu ), 


Tokyo Bay, 182, 282. 


Tdshogu, 50. 


459. 


Tokyo-Takasaki-Karui- 


Tosotsu Heaven, 352. 


Tsunomine, 396. 


zawa Ryailwa, 148. 


Tosu, 427 ; 425. 


Tsunomiya, 189. 


Tokyo-Yokohama Rail- 


Tosu-Saga Ry., 430. 


Tsuri-bashi, 218, 222, 


way, 86. 


Totomi, 270. 


225. 


Tomakomai, 487, 488. 


Totsugawa, 361. 


Tsuruga, 258, 370. 


Tornari (Etchu), 258. 


Totsuka, caves of, 84. 


Tsuru-ga-oka, 470. 


Tomari ( Kunashiri ) , 


Tottori, 372. 


Tsurugata, 475. 


489. 


Towada, 476. 


Tsurugi, 241. 


Tombs of Shoguns, 92, 


Toyaba-toge, 468. 


Tsurugi-dake, 239. 


108, 161, et seq. 


Toyama (Etchu), 260. 


Tsurugi-saki, 282. 


T6me-no-saki, 267. 


Toyama (Nikko), 171. 


Tsurukawa, 215. 


Tomioka ( Amakusa ), 


Toyohara, 451. 


Tsuruma-gawa, 200. 


417. 


Toyohashi, 231, 270. 


Tsurumi-yama, 435. 


Tomioka (Awa), 396. 


Toyohira-gawa, 486. 


Tsurusaki, 440. 


Tomioka (K6tsuke),149. 


Toyokawa, 270. 


Tsuruzato, 231. 


Tomioka (Yokohama), 


Toyokuni temple, 311. 


Tsushima, 447 ; 414. 


82. 


Toyono, 209 ; 158. 


Tsuten-kyo, 309. 


Tomiyama (Boshti), 


Toyooka, 372. 


Tsuyutare, 223, 278. 


192. 


Toyo-uke-bime, 50, 251. 


Tsuzureko, 474. 


Tomiyama (Matsushi- 


Toyoura, 391. 


Tumuli, 98, 296, 330, 


ma), 463. 


Travelling Expenses, 7. 


335, 340, 341 5 342, 


Tomizato, 407. 


Treaties, foreign, 53, 


345, 347, 380, 397. 


Tomotsu, 387. 


136. 


Twenty-eight Follow- 


Tonda, 369. 


Treaty Limits, 3, 184. 


ers of Kwannon, 310. 


Tonden-hei, 486. 


Treaty Ports, 3. 


Twenty-five Bosatsu, 


Tonegawa, 452 ; 181, et 


Troglodytes, 121. 


126, et pass. 


pass. 


Tsu, 247 ; 245. 




Tono, 467. 


Tsubaki-hara, 241. 




Tonoki, 223. 


Tsubarai, 222. 


u 


Tonokuchi, 199. 


Tsubata, 258. 




Tonomine, 346 ; 276. 


Tsuboi, Prof., 98, 121. 


Uba-ga-mori, 347. 


Tonosawa, 123. 


Tsuboya, 442. 


Ubago, 127 ; 122. 


Tooth, Buddha's, 309. 


Tsuchi-Mikado, 397. 


Uchihara, 182. 


Topes, 38. 


Tsuchiyama, 383. 


Uchi-Mayumi, 368. 


Tora Gozen, 64, 126. 


Tsuchizaki, 472. 


Uchino, 211. 


Tori Busshi, 65, 334. 


Tsuda Sanzo, 330. 


Uchinoko, 408. 


Torigawa, 331. 


Tsugaru, 475 ; 461. 


Uchinomaki, 433. 


Torii, vill., 200. 


Tsugawa, 200. 


Uda, emperor, 303, 304. 


Torii-toge ( Kusatsu ), 


Tsuge 249. 


Udo, 445. 


158. 


Tsuji, 406. 


Udoma, 139. 


Torii-toge (Nakasendo), 


Tsujikawa, 371. 


Ueda, 206. 


280. 


Tsukazaki, 431. 


Ueki, 425. 


Tori-no-machi, 89. 


Tsukigase, 340. 


Ueno (Tokyo), 104. 


Toro, 489. 


Tsukiji, 115 ; 91. 


Uenohara, 215. 



526 



Index. 



UENO-NO-YAMA 


VRIES ISLANE 


► 


WEBSTER ISLAND 


Ueno-no-yama, 220. 


Uryu-zaka, 278. 




w 


Uesugi family, 90, 160, 


Usa, 434. 






213, 454. 


Usami, 137. 




Wabuka, 369. 


Ugo-no-Mitama, 43. 


Ushibuse, 265 ; 135. 


Wada (Boshu), 192. 


Ugui, 365. 


Ushijima (Inland Sea), 


Wada (Izu), 134. 


Uji (Ise), 250. 


384. 




Wada (Shinshu), 279. 


Uji (Yamashiro), 326. 


Ushijima (Tokyo), 


113. 


Wada (Ugo), 473. 


Ujina, 388. 


Ushikubi, 241. 




Wadahama, 400. 


Ukegawa, 369. 


Ushima, 434. 




Wada-no-ha, 464. 


Uke-mochi - no - Kami, 


Ushiwaka, 67. 




Wada-no-Misaki, 292, 


50. 


Ushizu, 431. 




384. 


Ukitsu, 409. 


Usu, 487. 




Wada-toge, 279. 


Uma-gaeshi (Chuzenji), 


Usuda, 223. 




Wadayama, 372 ; 371. 


174. 


Usui, 185. 




Wagakawa, 458. 


Uma-gaeshi (Fuji), 141, 


Usui-gawa, 150. 




Wajiki, 409. 


143, 144. 


Usui-toge (Karuizawa), 


Waka-hirume, 288. 


Umami-yama, 429. 


150, 151, 278. 




Wakamatsu(Aizu), 199, 


Umeda, 293. 


Usui-toge ( Miyanoshi- 


452. 


Umewaka, 113. 


ta), 128. 




Wakamatsu ( Chiku- 


Ume-yasbiki, 114. 


Utsubusa, 218. 




zen), 425. 


Umidaira, 132. 


Utsunomiya, 452 ; 


161. 


Waka-no-ura, 357 ; 347. 


Umijiri (Hakone), 127, 


Uwadaira, 202. 




Wakasa-no-I, 337. 


131. 


Uwashima, 386. 




Wakasare - no - chaya, 


Umijiri (Shinshu), 224. 


Uwajima, 408. 




152. 


Unbeaten Trades in 


Uzumasa, 304. 




Wakayama, 356. 


Japan, 487. 


Uzura, 484. 




Wake, 383. 


Une, 383. 


Uzu-toge, 468. 




Wake-Ikazuchi, 323. 


Unebi, 341. 






Wakimachi, 407. 


Unebi-yama, 342. 






Wakura, 260. 


University, Imperial, 


V 




Wakuya, 456. 


103 ; 84, 99. 






Wami-toge, 151. 


Unkei, 65, 79, 310, et 


Vandalism, 271, 


305, 


War, gods of, 42, 111. 


pass. 


306. 




Warabi, 148, 451. 


Unna, 230. 


Vegetable wax -trees, 


W T arai-do, 166. 


Uno, 350. 


360, 432, 442. 




Waraku-en, 292. 


Unomachi, 408. 


Vegetarianism,350, 351, 


Wars, civil, 52, 53, 105, 


Unuma, 277. 


464. 




441. 


Uuzen, 420. 


Venus Hill, 416. 




Wasbigasu, 468. 


Uomi, 134. 


Visiting Cards, 17. 




Washing, 9. 


Uotsu, 260 ; 258. 


Vladivostock, 448. 




Washio-yama, 409. 


Uraga, 83, 282. 


Vocabulary, 21. 




Washizu, 270. 


Urago, 376. 


Volcano Bay, 487 ; 


479. 


Watagawa, 215. 


Urakami, 417. 


Volcanoes, active, 


139, 


Watanabe - no - Tsuna, 


Uramacbi, 461. 


140, 152, 157, 


177, 


337. 


Urarni, 172. 


437, 440, 442, 


443, 


Watarase - gawa, 178, 


Urasa, 201. 


444, 453, 471, 


481, 


179; 160. 


Urashima Taro, 65, 84, 


482, 489. 




Watase, 425. 


281, 370. 


Volcanoes, extinct 


134, 


Waterfalls, 147, 161, 


Urawa, 148, 451. 


149, 150, 158, 


160, 


275, 366, 436, 437, 


Uresbino, 420, 419 ; 


210, 235, 242, 


422, 


439, 470, 482. 


431. 


459, 475. 




Weather, 9. 


Urushi-yama, 468. 


Vries Island, 138, 282. 


Webster Island, 82. 



Index. 



527 



WEIGHTS 


YAMATO-MEGUBI 


YOKA-ICHIBA 


Weights and Measures, 


Yakeyama (Hakodate), 


Yamato - take, 66, et 


6. 


482. 


pass. 


West Coast, 257, 373 ; 


Yakeyama (Rikuoku), 


Yamazaki, 263, 325. 


9, 212. 


461. 


Yamura, 215. 


Weston, Rev. Walter, 


Yakeyama (Shinshu), 


Yanagase, 258. 


Pref., 237, 529. 


209, 210. 


Yanagawa (Chikugo), 


Whaling, 283, 367. 


Yakiyama-toge, 367. 


427. 


Whitney, Dr. W. N., 6. 


Yakushi Nyorai, 50 ; 42. 


Yanagawa ( Rikuchu ), 


Wild animals, 162, 194, 


Yakushi-dake, 228. 


466. 


221, 232, 284, 349, 


Yakushi-ji, 340. 


Yanagiwara, 288. 


362, 448, 479. 


Yakushima, 442. 


Yanagizawa, 459. 


Will Adams, 83, 293, 


Yakyu Inari, 121. 


Yanagizawa-toge, 218. 


296. 


Yamabetsu, 489, 490. 


Yanai, 383. 


Williams, Sir Monier, 


Yamada (Echigo), 211. 


Yanaka, 254. 


41. 


Yamada (Ise), 250 ; 


Yanoshiri-toge, 238. 


Wilson's Island, 386. 


245, 369. 


Yao, 334. 


Wisdom, bump of, 39. 


Yamada (Rikuchu), 


Yari-ga-take, 236 ; 206, 


Wisdom, gods of, 42, 


467. 


207, 232. 


98. 


Yamada-toge, 158. 


Yasaka, 316, 318 ; 48. 


Wistarias, 90, 114, 337. 


Yamadera, 473. 


Yase, 324. 


Women, exclusion of, 


Yamadori, 464. 


Yashima, 385. 


351, et pass. 


Yamae, 430. 


Yashima-yama, 398. 


Women, Japanese, 17. 


Yamaga, 429. 


Yashiro ( Kirishima ), 


Wonsan, 448. 


Yamagata (Inawashi- 


443. 


Wrestling, 87, 89, 113. 


ro), 197. 


Yashiro (Nagano), 207. 




Yamagata (Uzen), 469, 


Yasuda (Echigo), 200. 


X 


471. 


Yasuda (Tosa), 409. 




Yamagawa, 440. 


Yasuhira, 68. 


Xavier, St. Francis, 52, 


Yamaguchi ( Kishu ), 


Yasukuni temple, 100. 


391, 436. 


358. 


Yasumiya, 476. 




Yamaguchi (Suwo), 391; 


Yatsu-ga-take, 224. 


Y 


375. 


Yatsushiro, 445. 




Yamaguchi Ousen, 156. 


Yawata (god), 42. 


Yabakei, 431. 


Yamakita ( Kyushu ), 


Yawata (Kyoto), 325. 


Yabase, 329. 


432. 


Yawata ( Nakasendo ), 


Yabe, 438. 


Yamakita (Tokaido 


278, 


Yabegawa, 427 ; 425. 


Railway), 265. 


Yawata (Shirnosa), 184. 


Yabigawa, 376. 


Yamakumada, 468. 


Yawatano, 137. 


Yabuhara, 280. 


Yamakushinai, 487. 


Yedo, 90; 56,87. 


Yabuki, 451. 


Yamamoto, 355. 


Yedo-gawa, 121. 


Yachigashira, 480. 


Yamanaka (Fuji), 147. 


Yez®, 479 ; 15. 


Yaeyama-jima, 446. 


Yamanaka (Izumi), 


Yobuno, 429. 


Yagami, 423. 


358. 


Yodogawa (Kyoto), 293, 


Yagi, 379. 


Yamanaka Onsen, 198. 


327, 329. 


Yagoshima, 199. 


Yamanojo, 444. 


Yodogawa (Ugo), 473. 


Yagura-zawa, 129. 


Yamashina, 276, 330. 


Yodo-Gimi, 331. 


Yahagi-gawa, 270. 


Yamashiro (Kaga), 259. 


Yogi, 379. 


Yahazu-yama, 155, 265. 


Yamashiro-dani, 407. 


Yoichi, 485. 


Yahiko, 211. 


Yamato, 341-2 ; 57, 298, 


Yoio-no-Mori, 249. 


Yainai-cho, 346. 


et %)ass. 


Yoita, 211. 


Yaita, 451. 


Yamato-meguri, 245, 


Yoka, 372. 


Yaizu, 263. 


345. 


Yoka-ichiba, 221. 



528 



Index. 



YOKAMACHI 

Yokamachi, 241. 

Yokkaichi (Buzen), 434. 

Yokkaichi (Owari), 246; 
245. 

Yokobori, 202. 

Yokogawa, 443, 444. 

Yoko-gawara, 402. 

Yokohama, 75. 

Yokohama-Tokyo Rail- 
way, 86. 

Yokokawa, 150. 

Yokoo-dani, 236. 

Yokosuka, 82. 

Yokota, 193. 

Yokote, 474 ; 472. 

Yokotsu-dake, 482. 

Yokoya, 156. 

Yonago, 373. 

Yonezawa, 454, 469. 

Yoriaido, 236. 

Yoriie, 67. 

Yorimasa, 327. 

Yoritomo, 67 ; 51, 169, 
et pass. 

Yoro, 275. 

Yorozu-yama, 480. 

Yose, 85, 214. 

Yoshida (Fuji), 144, 
215. 

Yoshida (Hyuga), 443. 

Yoshida (Iyo), 408. 

Yoshida, temple, 322. 

Yoshihama, 133. 

Yoshii, 432. 

Yoshiie, Minamoto-no, 
55. 

Yoshijima Jinja, 348. 

Yoshima, 384. 

Yoshimasa, 79, 322. 

Yoshimatsu, 443. 

Yoshimitsu, 302, 303. 

Yoshimo, 484. 

Yoshimochi, 302. 

Yoshinaga, 383. 

Yoshino (Iyo), 410. 

Yoshino (Sagami), 215. 



YUNOKAWA 

Yoshino (Yamato), 347 ; 

54, 119. 
Yoshino-gawa ( Shiko- 

ku), 404 ; 396. 
Yoshino-gawa (Yama- 
to), 347. 
Yoshioka, 484. 
Yoshisada, 258. 
Yoshitomo, 58. 
Yoshitsune, 67, 457. 
Yoshiwara ( Tokaido ), 

140, 142. 
Yoshiwara (Tokyo), 112. 
Young Japan, 86, 264. 
Yuasa, 360. 
Yuba, 129. 
Yubari, 487. 
Yuda, 391. 
Yudono-san, 470. 
Yuensan, 448. 
Yufu-dake, 435. 
Yugano, 136. 
Yugashima, 136. 
Yugawara, 134. 
Yugi, 409. 
Yui-ga-hama, 77. 
Yukawa, 134. 
Yuki, 182. 
Yukiai-gawa, 80. 
Yume - no - Uki - hashi, 

309. 
Yumihari-toge, 347. 
Yu-mi-yama, 433. 
Yumoto (Hakone), 123. 
Yumoto (Haku - san), 

241, 242. 
Yumoto (Ikao), 154. 
Yumoto (Iwaki), 202. 
Yumoto (Nikko), 176. 
Yumoto ( Tateyama ), 

239. 
Yumura, 372. 
Yuni, 486. 

Yu-no-hana-zawa, 125. 
Yunohara, 455. 
Yunokawa, 481. 



ZOZU-SAN 

Yunomine, 362. 
Yunosawa ( Karuiza- 

wa), 152. 
Yunosawa (Yezo), 481. 
Yunoshima, 233. 
Yu-no-taki, 176. 
Yunotan, 437. 
Yunotani, 407. 
Yura (Awaji), 379; 377. 
Yura (Kishu), 360. 
Yura (Tango), 370. 
Yura strait, 284. 
Yuragawa, 370. 
Yurappu, 479. 
Yurishima, 385. 
Yururi, 488. 
Yusawa, 154. 
Yushima, 372. 
Yushu-kwan, 100. 
Yutenji, 117. 
Yuyama, 291. 
Yuzaki, 362. 
Yuzawa (Mikuni-toge), 

201. 
Yuzawa (Ugo), 473. 
Yuzu Nembutsu, 36. 



Zaimoku-iwa, 455. 
Zaragoe, 239. 
Zaru-ga-take. 225. 
Zassho-no-kuma, 425. 
Zempukuji, 99. 
Zen sect, 36. 
Zenibako, 486. 
Zenkoji, 207, 310. 
Zentsuji, 399. 
Zeze, 331. 
Zocho, i8. 

Zodiac, signs of, 335. 
Zojoji, 92. 
Zo-6 Gongen, 348. 
Zoological gardens, 108. 
Z6toku-in, 77. 
Zozu-san, 398. 



ERRATA AND ADDENDA. 



P. 28, sixth sentence. — For husadai read kudasai. 

P. 37, No. 13.— For koro read koro. 

P. 40 and p. 47. — Daiseishi and Seishi are identical. 

P. 45, lines 6 and 4 from bottom. — For Hitomaru read Hitomaro. 

P. 87. — Central Telegraph Office removed to Edo-bashi. 

,, To Theatres add Meiji-za, in Hisamatsu-cho, Nihon-bashi. 
P. 105, r. col. line 18. — The switchback railway has been removed. 
P. 134, 1. col. — In Walk No. 4, read 1 mile, not 1 ri. 
P. 201, r. col. line 4 of description. — For Chojija read Choji-ya. 
P. 228, middle of 1. col. — For Komoro read Kozori. 
Pp. 229, 232, et seq. — The following measurements of altitudes for 

several mountain peaks and other places in Routes 28 and 30 have been 

kindly forwarded by Rev. Walter Weston : — 

Akaishi-san . . 10,147 ft. 

Koma-ga-take (Shinshu) . . . . . . 10,100 ,, 

Norikura 10,150 „ 

Yari-ga-take 10,300 ,, 

Hirayu 4,500 „ 

Abo-toge 6,400 „ 

Tokugo-toge 7,100 „ 

Harinoki-toge 8,120 ,, 

Zaragoe 7,300 ,, 

Ryuzan-jita ........ 4,150 ,, 

P. 242, r. col. line 4 of small type.— For Vol. XXII read Vol. XXI. 
Pp. 245 and 247. — The Railway is now completed between Tsu and 

Yamada — a distance of 24 J miles — under the name of the Sangu Tetsudo, 

or " Pilgrim Railway." The following is the schedule : — 



Names of Stations. 


Remarks. 


Tsu. 

Akogi. 

Takajaya (Karasu). 

Rokken. 

Matsuzaka. 

Oka. 

Tamaru. 

Miyagawa (Yamada). 


Time from Tsu 
to Miyagawa, 
about 1J hour. 
Long jinrikisha 
ride from station 
into Yamada. 



P. 254, middle r. col. — For Kannami read Kan-name. 

P. 270, r. col. line 22 from bottom. — For Hamano read Hamana. 

P. 281, r. col. middle. — A new road from Tsumago onwards now 
obviates the necessity for crossing the Magome-toge and the Jik-koku- 
toge. It rejoins the old Nakasendo Dear Ocbiai. 

P. 365, r. col. line 7 from bottom. —For Mizawaki read Miwazaki. 

P. 446, 1. col. line 2.— For Mayiko read Miyako. 

P. 451. — Near end of railway schedule add Shimoda after Numasaki, 
and Uramachi before Aomori. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 




Advertisements. 



THE 




LIMITED 




YOKOHAMA, Nos. IS, 19 «fc 30, KTJ]V1>. 




The Situation of the Grand Hotel on the Sea-board, 

^^TITH the NEW and ELEGANT ADDITIONAL BUILDING containing upwards 
& of 100 apartments, and surrounded by fine Verandahs over 200 feet long, 
making an extensive promenade, affords its occupants a magnificent view of the Har- 
bour and a cool and pleasant residence, even in the hottest days of the sultry season. 

In addition to this, the Hotel grounds comprise fine Tennis Lawns and Walks. 
The Company can safely challenge any Hotel in the East for pleasantness of situation, 
comfort, and elegance. 

A STEAM LAUNCH, under European supervision, attends all outgoing and 
incoming Steamers, thus ensuring the safe transit of Passengers' luggage through 
the Customs and conveyance to the Hotel, without trouble to the owners. 

LOUIS EPPINGER, 

Manager. 



Advertise me iits. 



YAAMI HOTEL, 

MRRUYRMR, KYOTO , 



THIS FAVOURITE AND LONG-ESTABLISHED 
having been recently enlarged by the addition of two new buildings, 

AND 

RENOVATED, NOW CONTAINS 

75 ROOMS OF WHICH 40 HAVE FRONT ASPECTS. 

It is Situated on Maruyama, 

A Suburb of the Old Capital, 

Commanding Panoramic Views of the City, 

AND 

liMwnei foi its liittiespi Sctneiy, 

Beautiful Walks in the Immediate Vicinity. 
HOWS ALL WELL VENTILATED, 

AND 

COMFORTABLY FURNISHED IN EUROPEAN STYLE. 
The Hotel is Distant from the Station only 20 Minutes. 

MEALS PREPARED BY AN EXPERIENCED COOK. 

Can he Served at all Hours. 



Advertisements. 




mm®,*mmAmm by k. §®awa 



Advertisements. 




: '®M'M 





Photographic Studio, Photo-Engraving Studio, 

Misaki-cho, Kanda. Hiyoshi-cho, Shimbashi. 

TOKYO. 




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IN 



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Advertisements. 



KAIKATEI, 



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Hakone. 



THESE CELEBEATED 

vn C§3 OD TIE 



ARE SITUATED ABOVE MIYANOSHITA, 

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CAN BE OBTAINED AT 

AT A FIXED AND MODERATE SCALE GF CHARGES. 



A. FARSARI & CO., 

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VIEWS #f MlLJU P&IKCIPA& 

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CHILDREN A SPECIALITY. 



4 d*@,j Art PMompbors, 

No. 1«>. TtTJT>fT>. 



Advertisements. 




WITH the object of assisting visitors to this country, we, the undersigned members 
of the KAIYUSHA, or " Licenced Guides Association," undertake the supply of 
competent and trustworthy English-speaking guides, guaranteeing perfect satisfaction 
in all respects. The necessity of care in selecting guides will be appreciated, when it is 
understood that many persons offer their services in that capacity who have little 
knowledge of the duties involved, and are not in any respect qualified. Our As- 
sociation has been known and tested during a period of TWENTY YEARS. The under- 
signed mem bers of the Kaiyusha therefore beg to draw attention to the fact that they 
cannot be held responsible for the conduct of guides hired on board steamers or at 
railway stations, or in fact at any places other than the principal hotels in Japan ; 
and they respectfully request visitors seeking guides to apply only at the office of" the 
Hotel at which they may be staying, when their wants shall have immediate attention, 
only responsible men being supplied, for whose conduct the Association will hold 
itself responsible. 

Guides can meet travellers at any place, if requested to do so by letter or telegram. 
If any particular Guide, or a Guide speaking French or German, is desired and 
mentioned in the application, he will respond if not otherwise engaged. In order to 
avoid delay and inconvenience, tourists are requested to apply for the Guide's services 
21- hours before starting on a long excursion, and 2 or 3 hours before a short trip. 

TERMS : — Two dollars per day for a party of one or two tourists ; over two, 25 
cents added for each tourist. In all cases the Guide's travelling expenses (but not his 
Hotel expenses) must be paid by his employer. 



NAMES OF LICENSED GUIDES: 



YOKOHAMA. 

T. ITO. 

S. NISHIGORI. 

K. MATSUDA. 

S. OHASHI. 

F. TAKAGAKI. 

TETSUZO YOSHIDA. 

W. MUTO. 

NAKAJIMA KATSU. 

TAJIMA KOBEI. 

Y. F. SHIMIZU. 

HIRATA MATSU. 

R. KAITO. 

MITSU OS HIM A. 

KATO FUJI. 

S. HATTORI. 



HIRATA OTO. 
T. HORI. 

K. T. FUKUYAMA. 
MA CHID A KISABURO. 
S. OKUMURA. 
K. HASHIMOTO. 
MATSUDAIRA TOYOKI- 
CHI (French). 
Assistants. 
K. SHIMIZU. 
S. YAMAMOTO. 
M. TAMAKI. 
K. FU.III. 
K. ITO. 
Y. KUSAMA. 
K. MA NO. 
K. ISHIGAML 



KOBE. 

T. KIMOTO. 
K. YAJIMA. 
S. ITO. 
K. ISAKI. 
H. YAMATO. 
K. YAMAMOTO. 
Y. YAMAGUOHI. 
Assistants. 
G. OGAWA. 
T. NAKAMURA. 
K. FU.TISAWA. 
T. TATSUMI. 
Y. YASUDA. 
J. MORITA. 
S. INUZUKA. 
Y. OKITA. 



Yokohama: \ TTTTTnxT i AnniAnr* ^ Kotoe : 

No. 116, motomachi, KAIYUSHA OFFICES No 2l2> m ° t ° machi > 

Sanchome. ) ( Itchome. 

Tokyo : 

No. 2, Yamashita-cho, Kyobashi-ku. 



Advertisements. 




MIYANOSHITA 



HOT MINERAL 

11SJG 



»* 



Mm €h 



f%im m ffl if 




*j 



KUIU 




S. N. YAMA8UCHI, Proprietor. 



Advertisements, 





UPPER NIKKO, 



iLji^K yrid Ji|iy yUlYiJ? UBS 1 da*>£? JU 



HOTEL 

is delightfully situated near the famous Mausolea of 
the Shoguns. The ROOMS are large, comfort- 
ably furnished, and provided with Stoves. 

A Billiard Room and Tennis Lawn 

-A-DRIE ATTACHED.' 



IKMtS served m tike fe©sf Imropeaa Style. 



{Rooms should be engaged by letter or telegram. 
Attendance at every train). 



Manages. 



ft* f^afrctyadlji, 



Proprietor. 



10 



Advertisements. 



t\a 




& 



KAWARA MAORI SAHJO AGARU, KYOTO. 

{15 Minutes from the Station). 

PATRONIZED by HI H. the CZAIEWIGH of RUSSIA. 



CJT^jt* ^tV0t ©la** ®0t&l is splendidly situated and corn- 
fill) mands a magnificent view. The buildings are fitted up with 
^^ the ELECTRIC LIGHT and ELECTRIC BELLS throughout, 
and every bedroom is provided with a FIRE-PLACE. 

Good VENTILATION, luxurious FURNITURE and first-class 
CUISINE. 

Both TABLE DHOTE and MEALS 

AT ALL HOURS. 

T. MAYEDA, Proprietor. 

ORIENTAL HOTEL, 



FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 



TJI>r3TJE;^ D ^.SSEX) 



CUISINE AND CELLAR. 

Steam Launch meets all Incoming k Outgoing Steamers. 



L beguex - 



= "Proprietor and Manager. 



Advertisements. 



11 



SK 



™d\K\\j 




The Largest and Best Situated in 



m 



gfcttttatefr fljattfl has been opened 
by fit HW aw ft, tn e Proprietor of the 
Old Kanaya Hotel, in Nikko-Irimachi, and Visitors 
will now, far tl}£ ftVSt time, find at Nikko 
every comfort of a giv&t-cla&& &XXV&peiXn 
fljattfl, with an Excellent Cuisine. 

The Extensive Views over the beautiful valley 
of the Daiya and the mountain ranges of Nantai are 
unequalled. 

Detached Houses in Japanese and Semi-Euro- 
pean style are attached to the Hotel. 



SPECIAL ARRANGEMENTS CAN BE MADE FOR FAMILIES. 



12 



Advertisements. 



®fe Jmprtal Maid, 



LIMITED. 



m 



<pt, Uok^xrama ... 



ptana^ing Qxvzctov* 



" One of the finest Hotels in the World."'— Cook's Tours. 

BUT the- ONE HOTEL in the Far East in the comfort it affords, in the elegance of 
its furnishing and appointments, in the size and magnificence of its structure, 
and in its efficient and liberal management that can be favourably compared to the 
famous Hotels of Europe and America. 

The Imperial Hotel is within 5 minutes of the Railway station, and centrally 
situated with respect to the chief objects and places of interest. 
All communications will receive special attention. 

SPECIAL. MONTHLY HATES, 




Tlie Imperial Hotel Premises, Tokyo. 



LIVERY STABLE-KEEPER. 




Advertisements. 



13 



no 1 



ii 



Mori Tome. 

PROFESSIONAL TATTOOER. 

% Imperial Hotel, Tokyo. 



To face p. 12 of Advertisements. 



The most beautiful position in Ikao, situated 2,500 

feet above Sea Level, commanding magnificent 

Views of the vicinity, 

COMFORTABLY FURNISHED ROOMS. 

Well Supplied Table at all Hours. 
W iaii and Liquors of the Boat Qua! 

CHARGES MODERATE. 



M< MQ9URM «.-. Proprietor. 



14 A dvertisem en ts . 



A NEW MAP OF TOKYO an a » b^ ** . 

Guide $ 0.50 

GATOLOGUE OF PLANTS ^ the Herbarium of the College of 

Science, Imperial University 2.00 

HEPBURN, J. G. — Japanese - English and English - Japanese 

Dictionary, Unabridged 4th ed 7.50 

„ Abridged by the author 2.00' 

HISTORY OF THE EMPIRE OF JAPAN -Compiled and Translated 
for the Imperial Japanese Commission of the World's 
Columbian Exposition, Chicago, U.S.A., 1893 .... 10.00 

IMBRIE W. — Hand-Boot of English - Japanese Etymology 

2nd ed 1.50 

KOEKI MONDO— Romanized by W. Imbrie. ....... .30 

KIU0 DO WA.— Translated and Edited by Eev. C. S. Eby. . . .30 

OUTLINE MAP of Japan 20 

WHITNEY W.N. — Concise Dictionary of the Principal Eoads, 

Chief Towns and Villages of Japan, with 

Populations, Post Offices, etc., with appendix 1 .50 

„ Index of Chinese Characters in Hepburn's 

Dictionary arranged according to their 

Eadicals .75 

YATABE R. — Iconographia Floras Japonicaa; or Descriptions 
with figures of Plants indigenous to Japan, with 20 Plates 

Vol. I, Pt. 1 1.00 

„ I, Pt. 2 1.00 

„ I, Pt. 3 1.25 



TOKYO: 

publishers and ^Booksellers, 

Bos. U & 15, liteMsM Yorf to.eliOBie. 




Advertisements. 



15 



I Uasegawa. 

\0 ; )-\ IYOSHICHO. 



P 



RINTER 



0F J A ^To' 



TIC 



foK/o 
.nd Publisher 
\anese Artis- 
^.\Rooks ; Pam- 









r-\ °<k*& 6 > ^. 

h n 








OTHER 
AP E FL 



K 



0ULA 

Gta 
Prig 
' Ja 




16 



Advertisements. 



nil ii IP 





Telegraphic Address: Raffles— Singapore. 

FJJj First- (Mass Motel, 

WHICH has been enlarged and entirely renovated, is 
facing and commanding an extensive view of the 
harbour, close to the Public offices, Mercantile quarters, 
and the Esplanade. 

§*ttit#) consisting of Sitting-room, Bed-room, Dressing- 
room, with Private Bath-room attached. 

A most spacious Dining-room facing the sea. 

$ciV) ^xllxavb and ^jeaMnfl l£U*cmt in separate block 

and fitted up with all modern improvements. 

$0%xv $xv&t -cla«# ^tUtarfr ®aMe#* 

The Table d'Hote is always supplied with every deli- 
cacy in season, and is open to non-residents. 

Breakfast, 9 a.m. ; Tiffin, 1 p.m. ; Dinner, 7.30 p.m. 

Boarders and Visitors of the Baffles Hotel can have 
their Lunch at the Baffles Tiffin Booms in Baffles Square, 
without extra charge. 

Wines, Spirits, and Lipors of the best qualities and brands. 

ELECTRIC BELLS THROUGHOUT THE BUILDINGS. 



TEKMS-MODERATE. 

BRANCH HOTELS : 

EASTERN & ORIENTAL HOTEL, PENANG. SARKIES BROTHERS, 

SARKIES' HOTEL, RANGOON. Proprietors. 



Advertisements. 



17 



rJK51ll fiJT^lk* 



,OEBO 



DEALER IN ALL KINDS OF 



'anm 



me 's^/dfamam 




FINE THIN KIOTO PORCELAIN TEA SETS, 

Hand PaintEd Papar Lantern and Silk Fans, 

(MARKED FIXED PRICES.) 



HO. 13, 
GlON-MAiJHI,) 



K. YASHIMAU 



KIOTO, 
JAPAN. 



N. MESS & Go. 



ETC., ETC., ETC , 

No. 8, Our a Bund, Nagasaki, 

(Opposite the Ijlnngtong and Shanghai Banning ©orparaticrn.) 



N: MESS & Co. t 



Have always on hand 
Choice and Varied 

Collection of the fol- 
lowing and other High-class Articles, for sale at the Lowest Market Prices: — 
Porcelain of every description, including Satsuma and Kioto Vases, and other 
Useful and Ornamental Articles ; Cloisonne Vases, Card Plates, etc. ; 
Bronze Vases, Gongs, etc. ; Lacquered and Inlaid Cabinets ; Ivory Carvings ; 
Silk Screens, Dressing Gowns, Jackets, Pocket Books, Handkerchiefs ; Illus- 
trated Albums of selected Native Figures and Scenery ; and other articles too 
numerous to mention, all guaranteed of the best manufacture. 

dP A VISIT IS RESPECTFULLY SOLICITED. 



18 



Advertisements. 



3|<m|fywj & $fiattj$»i 3m\\m €n$mtk% 



PAID UP CAPITAL $10,000,000.00 

RESERVE FUND $ 4,200,000.00 

RESERVE LIABILITIES OF PROPRIETORS . . . . $10,000,000.00 



HEAI> OFFICE: HONGKONG. 

Chief Manager THOS. JACKSON, Esq. 



LONDON. 



Manaaers \EWEN CAMERON, Esq. 

managers . . j ^ E NOBLE, Esq. 

Bankers— LONDON & COUNTY BANKING COMPANY, Limited. 



SHANGHAI. 









*■■'-■■' ■*.-■■*— -"J ■*-• 


IBHANOUES AND AGENCIES. 


London, 


Bombay, 


Manila, 


Amoy, 


Lyons, 


Calcutta, 


Iloilo, 


Tientsin, 


Hamburg, 


Singapore, 


Foochow, 


Hiogo, 


New York, 


Saigon, 


Bangkok, 


Batavia, 


San Francisco, 


Shanghai, 


Hankow, 


Penang. 



YOKOHAMA BRANCH. 

Interest allowed on Current Accounts at 2% on Daily Balances over $500. 
On fixed Deposits for 12 months at 5% 

n n n »» O ,, ,, 4 / 

it 11 ii it & ii • * •• •• >) <3/o 



LOCAL BILLS DISCOUNTED. 

Credits granted on approved Securities, and every description of 
Banking and Exchange business transacted. 

Drafts granted on London and the Chief Commercial places in Europe, 
India, Australia, America, China, and Japan. Circular Notes issued for the 
use of Travellers. 

DAVID JACKSON, Manager. 



Advertisements. 19 



WIPPON WUBEM MAMMA 

(The Japan Mail Steamship Company) 

HEAD OFFICE TOKYO. 



Telegraphic Address, " MORIOKA, TOKYO. 



Branch Offices at the Principal Ports in Japan, and at Shanghai, 
Hongkong, Fusan, Gensan and Jinsen, 

AND 

Agencies at Chefoo, Tientsin, Newchwang, Amoy, Foochow, 

Takcrw, Formosa, Manila, Vladivostock, Singapore, 

Colombo, Bombay, London, and Glasgow. 

WEEKLY COMMUNICATION BETWEEN 

YOKOHAMA, KOBE, SHIMOKOSEKI, NAGASAKI, AND SHANGHAI. 

N connection with the Steamers of the Pacific Mail and Occidental 



I 



and Passengers, Tickets issued to America and Europe. Three- 
weekly service between Kobe-Bombay, Via Moji, Hongkong, Singapore, 
and Colombo. Bombay-Kobe, Via Colombo, Singpore, Hongkong, and 
Shanghai. 

For Arrivals and Departures see Advertisements in Local Papers. 

The following are the more important Lines on which the Steamers are plying. 

Eegtjlar Lines : 
Yokohama- Yokkaichi. Yokohama-Handa. Yokohama-Sanriku. 

Kobe-Yokohama-Oginohama-Hakodate-Otaru. Yokohama-Shimonoseki-Misumi- 

Kobe-Kagoshima-Oshima-Loochoo. Nagasaki. 

Kobe-Onomichi-Shimonoseki-Sakai (Hakushu)-Tsuruga-Fukui-Naoyetsu-]S T iigata- 

Kamo-Sakata-Tsuchizaki-Noshiro-Hakodate-Otaru. 

Kobe-Shimonoseki-Nagasaki-Fusan-Gensan- Vladivostock. 

Kobe-Shimonoseki-Nagasaki-Fusan-Jinsen-Chefoo-Tientsin. 

Kobe-Shimonoseki-Nagasaki-Goto-Tsnshima- Fusan- Jinsen-Chefoo-Taku-Newchwang. 

Shan ghai-Chef oo- Jinsen-Nagasaki- Fusan -Gensan- Vladivostock. 

Kobe-Shimonoseki-Nagasaki-Foochow-Amoy-Manila-(occasional, Hongkong-Takow ) . 

Hokodate-Nemuro. Awomori-Hakodate-Muroran. Otaru-Soya. 

Nemuro-LIurile Islands. 

The Japan Mail Steamship Company possesses a fleet of First-Class large and 
full-powered steamships, fitted with the latest improvements for the comfort and con- 
venience of passengers. For information in regard to freight, passage, sailings, &c, 
apply at any of the Branches or Agencies, or at the Head Office in Tokyo, where full 
Particulars on all points may be had. 



20 



Advertisements. 



TRADE 




MARK. 






an 



(IWAMOTO) 

OLDEST BRONZE SHOP IN THE CAPITAL. 



DEALER IN HIGH-CLASS 

BROCADES, DAMASKS, TAPESTRY, EMBROIDERIES 

IN ANCIENT JAPANESE STYLE, 

Embroidered Clothing, Table Covers, 



AND- 



SULK WBAPPKBS (FUKCfgA), 

ETC., ETC., ETC. 



Prices fixed and as low as possible. 



No. 16, KAWASE-KOKU-CHO, MHOHBASHI-KU, TOKYO. 



Advertisements. 



21 




TOKYO, JAPAN. 
(JOEZOJ 
^tftmclj : No. 4, Sakaicho Itchome, Yokohama, Japan. 



K. KOBAYASHI, 



MANUFACTURER 



1'' 



INCLUDING 



GOLD AND SILVER LACQUER, BROKE WARE, METAL WORK, IVORY CARVINGS, 
CLOISONNE, PICTURES. 

«5ffl¥\HE very best modern works exclusively. Direct relations with the 
£jp artists enable us to offer their works at the lowest prices, from 
which no reduction can be made. Purchasers are invited to inspect the 
processes of manufacture. 



|}jesigns ami ®bje£ts ^pe-dallt) madia to &t&ei\ 

Many Medals awarded at Domestic and Foreign Exhibitions. 



Advertisements. 



GREEN RIBBON MEDAL WAS BESTOWED AGGORDING TO THE IMPERIAL EDIGT. 



Grand Prix 
was awarded at 

Paris 

International 

Exposition. 







If 



JAPAN. 

n % •&. m # « 



Medal 

was awarded at 

World's 

Columbian 

Exposition. 




IliflA 



D 



(Sanjo-dori Karasumaru, Kyoto, Japan), 

MANUFACTURER OF ART FABRICS 

TO THE 

IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD DEPARTMENT, 

HAS ESPECIALLY FINE 

Embroideries, Figured Velvets, Silks, Crapes, and Brocades, 

INCLUDING : 

BEDCOVERS, CUSHIONS, DRESSES, FIRE SCREENS, HANDKERCHIEFS, HANGING 

PICTURES, KAKEMONOS, MUFFLERS, PARASOLS, PORTIERES AND 

CURTAINS, SCREENS, SHAWLS, TABLE-COVERS, ETC., ETC. 

OUB MOTTOES. 

O RDERS have prompt attention. 
IV EW designs are beinpr; prepared. 
E VERY thing is of the latest fashion. 

1? RICES are moderate. 
R, EDUCTION is never made. 
I NTENDED to furnish the best. 
O AREPULLY packed and shipped. 
E XTENSIVE stock always on hand. 



Advertisements. 



23 




Awarded 95 Gold) **ffif* 
and Silver Prizes ]• ^ r 



and Medals 




At Home Sr Foreign 
International Ex~ 

Q >«jA Cm Sii/ Qtv i J Cmi CI ( hibitons. 

Irftttic ijronz^ |iare, ||sltt and Mtiet[ plaid JmA 

AND ALL KINDS OF 

DECORATED METAL GOODS IN ORIGINAL JAPANESE DESIGNS. 



Ifases, Card-trays, Candlesticks, I'eapots, Incense- 
tmrners, <&sh-traus, <&c. t <&c, 

STRICTLY OUSTIE PRICE. 



Teramachi Below Sliljo, Kyoto, Japan. 

^^p M^ <M^ <Mms> J» ® 




B> €> 



General Manufacturer and Wholesale and Retail Dealer in Every 

tion of 



Jme §lvt Iktoise*J%E WLwxt, 



\Mr\-U\NOUO MKCYW, NkGkSIWA. ifxPKU. 



M 



INIATURE men-of-war, Brooches, Bangles, Lockets, Combs, AN 

a Variety of other Useful and Ornamental Articles always on 

hand. Other goods made to order on the shortest notice. 

Material and Workmanship Guaranteed. Gold and Silver 

raised or inlaid work executed on Tortoise-shell to any design. 



D 



Advertisements. 




Buyers of really 

during 



WILL FIND 



This high-class house, under the 
r management of K. NAKAMURA, the 
MOST ADVANTAGEOUS place in 
Japan at which to make their purchases. 

GOODS IWAY BE INSPECTED AT ANY TIME. 

Goods Carefully Packed & Shipped to all Parts of the World. 



Advertisements. 



25 



TRADE 





No. 1. SMchome, Moto-Sukiya-cho, Kyobashi-ku, Tokyo. No. 1. 

(A short step from any of the principal hotels.) 

PHOTOGRAPHER 

AND 

DEALER IN THE BEST COLOURED PHOTOGRAPHS 

OF THE 



ALSO 



Collotypes, Bromide Photographs, and Magic Lantern Slides. 

Superior Lacquer Covers for Albums and Handsome Frames. 
AT MODERATE PRICES. 



SOLE AGENT 

FOE THE MAGNIFICENT ART PHOTOGRAPHS OF 

ME. KAJIMA S1IB1I. 



JAPAN, the Garden of the World, has been reproduced in the unrivalled 
photographs of the celebrated Amateur, Mr. Kajima Seibei, in such a 
manner as to make his work the wonder and admiration of every visitor 
to our studio. Millions of examples of Japanese Scenery and Costumes 
from the negatives kindly lent by him were submitted to the Photographic 
Society of Japan (Viscount Enomoto, President), and the selectiou made 
from them has earned for Mr. Kajima the title of " King of Amateur 
Photographers" and the unqualified praise of various European photo- 
graphic periodicals. This result he has achieved by the excellence of his 
apparatus and his own matchless artistic skill. A day is all too short 
for a visit to our studio, which is like making a tour of Japan. The best 
artists are employed for the coloured specimens. 

ALL SHOULD GOME AND SEE FOR THEMSELVES. 



26 Advertisements. 



THE 



KIHIN-KWAI, 

OR 

Society for Facilitating Foreign Travel 

IN JAPAN. 

The object of the Society is to afford every facility and conve- 
nience to foreigners visiting Japan. No idea of monetary profit 
enters into its programme. 

The principal functions which the Society proposes to 
perform are : — 

1. To exercise superintendence over guides. 

2. To improve the accommodation offered at inns. 

3. To furnish facilities for inspecting works of art. 

4. To provide means of visiting places of interest. 

5. To aid tourists in making purchases. 

6. To organize arrangements for travel. 

7. To introduce tourists to Japanese men of note. 

8. To simplify the process of obtaining passports. 

9. To compile sources of information for tourists. 

MARQUIS HACHISUKA. 
SHIBUSAWA EIICHI, Esq. 



FlJKUZAWA SuTKJIRO, EsQ. 

Masuda Takarhi, Esq. 
Nabeshima Kejjiro, Esq. 



Marquis Kido. 

Sannomiya Yoshitane, Esq. 

YOKOYAMA MaGOICHIRO, EsQ. 



FOR FURTHER PARTICULARS APPLY TO THE HEAD OFFICE OF THE SOCIETY, 
IN THE IMPERIAL HOTEL, TOKYO. 



Advertisements. 



27 



'Ml 






IKAO, JAPAN. 
!♦ W&xxvamat&n 






T IEEE IE S I S T IEzl IB IB Jt±J S T 



t^'UKi' "^ ^ ie ^ s ^ c ^» unequalled in the comfort it affords, situated 
^^$2^1 near the most celebrated hot springs in Japan. There are 




several well-ventilated, commodious Bed and Sitting Rooms, 
and also a spacious Dining Boom, furnished in European 
St} r le. For the convenience of Visitors we employ trust- 
worthy interpreters and waiters, and the Meals are prepared 

by experienced cooks. All kinds of Wine are always on hand. Baths 

free, hot and cold. 

a lakge billiaed saloon with european table. 
Charges Moderate. 

SPECIAL TERMS CAN BE MADE BY THE DAY, WEEK, OB. MONTH. 

KOBE PHARMACY AND DISPENSARY. 



*.' 




CHEMISTS AID PHARMACOPOEISTS. 

PRESCRIPTIONS PUT UP BY 

QUALIFIED AND REGISTERED CHEMISTS ONLY. 



Perfumes, Toilet Articles, Patent Medicines, Pocket Filters and Sundries. 



English & French Hotels, Books on Japan, Stationery & G-uide Boohs. 



AGENTS FOR KELLY & WALSH, LD„ 
BOOKSELLERS, &C. 



AGENTS FOR THE OFFICIAL RAILWAY 
AND TRAVELLERS' GUIDE, &G. 



28 



Advertisements. 



TKADE 




MARK. 




Chief Address : Ho. 9, Gnsoku-cho, Kyobashi-ku, Tokyo. 





rt Stare* 



me 



II^EGS to announce to the Foreign Public that the pawn- 
@? broking business carried on by his Firm for over three 
hundred years has furnished him with an unequalled stock of 
rare and beautiful Art Objects, to be disposed of Wholesale or 
Retail at reasonable rates : — 

gold lacquer-ware, 

WARLIKE IMPLEMENTS, OLD COPPER, 
603LB AM» SILfER ORHA8EKTS, 

CLOISONNE. MINIS SWORDS, IVORIES, 

CHOICEST JAPANESE AND CHINESE 

porcelain^, pcfeeng, ^ntique j&MIg, 

C?tc., Otc., Otc 

Inspection by Foreign Connoisseurs Respectfully Invited. 



Advertisements. 29 



HENRY SJONG & CO. 

EAST INDIA, ARMY, CIVIL SERVICE & COLONIAL 
BANKERS & AGENTS, 

65, CORNHILL, & 45, PALL RIIALL, LOUDON. 



KELLY & WALSH, Ltd., Yokohama, Japan. 
KELLY & WALSH, Ltd., Shanghai, China. 
KELLY & WALSH, Ltd, Hongkong. 




je*£r#* ^$XXXQ §£♦ jtittjg & ©*♦ furnish intending 
Passengers with complete information regarding the ex- 
pense and relative advantages of the various routes to 
different parts of the World; they will supply Plans, 
carefully select Berths and secure Passages on the most 
favourable terms, particularly for Families or Parties. These arrange- 
ments are made without any charge for trouble or correspondence. 

BILLS OF EXCHANGE on India, Europe, the United States, 
and Canada, are purchased and sold at the best current rates, and 
telegraphic remittance of Money made to all parts of India. 



PASSENGERS proceeding from China or Japan to Eng- 
land via America are recommended to forward their 
heavy Baggage to London via Suez c/o Henry S. 
King & Co. -who have engaged for the convenience 
of their constituents New Storage premises with 
ample space and facilities for warehousing Packed 
Goods, Baggage, &c., &c. 



80 



Advertisements. 



PATRONISED BY THE IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD DEPARTMENT. 



TRADE 



m 




MARK. 



(K. SANOl. 

F««E kMl CURIO ©1P©T S 

No. 14, Shin-Yemoncho, Higashi-Mak abort, Nihonbashi, Tokyo. 



^ncient SJniwtiese ^rt (gitrios. 

Comprising :— Gold and Silver Lacquer, Gold, Silver, and Copper Work, 
Wood and Ivory Carvings, Porcelains, Cloisonne, Screens. 

Old Writings and Pictures, Kakemonos, Makimonos, and also various 
other kinds of art goods. 

VISITORS ARE CORDIALLY INVITED TO IHSPECT OUR COLLECTION. 



r 



my<mt f%feg 




X 




STATUETTES 

AND 

MBTAL-WOBK,. 
In Pure Japanese Fancy Designs, 

nmmtfactttvefc i»jj 

MARUKI. 



No. 6, Sukiyacho, Nihonbashi-ka, Tokyo, Jape. 



Advertisements. 



31 








General Manufacturer of Tortoise Shell 

A LARGE ASSORTMENT 

ALWAYS ON HAND, 
nig genuine SDortois^ jSJrell kept in stod. 
MONOGRAM WOFiK IN SHELL 

AND 

PRECIOUS METALS A SPECIALTY. 



Mbto-JHagomachi, - - J\ r a?/a$ak4, Japan. 



fa 




I 



DEALER IN 



Photographs, Albums, Frames, Etc. 

A GREAT VARIETY OF 

JAPANESE SCENES, 

Large and Small, Coloured and Uncoloured, 

ALWAYS ON HAND. 

Photographs in Various Forms 

TAKEN TO ORDER ON SHORT NOTICE. 



Advertisements. 






// *■*» All Goods Guaranteed. 

GOLD & SILVER 10MRMS 





No. 55, MOTO-KAGO-MACHI, NAGASAKI. 



h 



m 



INTIKKO, JAPAN 




WW 



Only twenty minutes' ride from the Station and close 
to the Temple grounds. 



Excellent Cui^e, 



UNSURPASSED COMFORT. 
SPECIAL RATES MADE FOR A LONG STAY. 



ijrajfiktor 



FOR PARTICULARS APPLY TO 



JM. 



Advertisements. 33 



THE 



fflitsu Bishi Dockyard and Engine Works 



ISTJ^O-^-SJLICI 



Patent Slip taking Yessels up to 1,200 Tons. 



The GRANITE DOCK with a depth of 26' and length 
of 411' is now being lengthened to 500 feet. 



SHIP BUILDING YARD 

where Vessels of large size and power are constructed. 

Boilers Built to order, either Land or Marine. 

All the MOST MODERN MACHINERY in use, 

AND 

Heaviest Tifpe of Hfltenlic ^ivefcei 1 . 

A FIRST CLASS SALVAGE PLANT IN CONSTANT READINESS. 

Viz : 1. 18", 3. 12" Centrifugal Pumps, and 3 No. 11 Pulsometers. 
Flexible Hose, Divers' Gear, and Electric Lamp. 



TELEGEAPH ADDEESS: 

" DOCK"- Nagasaki. 

Nagasaki, April, 1894. 



34 Advertisements. 



hwellvn d $o. t 




XjIZMZITIEID. 



Pispensing and family (chemists. 

Dragging' j&niMegmeii, 

DEALERS IN PHOTOGRAPHIC APPLIANCES, 

MANUFACTURERS OF AERATED WATERS 



OF 



Standard Excellence and Purity, 

PROPRIETORS OF THE COOOH LIIOTOS, 

Laou-ti-che Hair Wash, Alpine Bitters, 

DIGESTIE AM) DIGESTIHE LOZENGES. 



Medical Hall, 

JVb. 2, JVanki?i IZoad, Shanghai. 



Advertisements. 35 



THE 



+4* *°^ 

i> L M ■ D T I E) 3 ^ 



TWO BRANCHES: 

Yokohama, No. 5-b, Bund Central. Tokyo, No. 1, TsukijI. 



THE YOKOHAMA BRANCH: 

WMM FiFMi Class M§i§i 

situated on the Bund Central, in the centre of the principal Business 
Localities, commands a Magnificent View of the Harbour and sur- 
rounding Scenery. 

The Rooms being well-ventilated, commodious, and furnished with 

every requisite, afford most desirable accommodation. The Electric 

Light has recently been placed in all the Buildings. 

%\\t %m mi Jpw-^adfe |j)i(Hmil JJJmm 

WINES AND LIQUORS 

Of the Best Qualities and Brands only are Supplied. 

THE TOKYO BRANCH 
(METROPOLE HOTEL) 

Is beautifully situated on the sea-board, and the premises have been 
lately re-decorated and eleganth burnished. The Electric Light is laid 
on in all the rooms. The grounds are well and artistically planned, and 
the Hotel is within ten minutes ride from the Shimbashi Station. 

At Yokohama the Steam Launch attends all Arrivals and Departures, 



36 Advertisements. 



MEIOI-¥JL f 

HONCHO-DORI ITGHOME, YOKOHAMA. I I GINZA NIGHOME, TOKYO. 

YOKOHAMA No. 30.— TELEPHONE— TOKYO No. 1198. 



provision and Wine Merchant, 

* "WHOLESALE AND RETAIL. 

§ tin eg or to %jicr §r limit ^njest^B feswcte in the $nst 

CONTRACTOR TO THE NIPPON YUSEN KA1SHA 

(The Japan Mail Steamship Co.) 
SOLE AGENT FOR 

THE JAPAN BREWERY COMPANY, LTD., 

(The Kirin Beer) 

AND 

THE HIRANO NATORAL_MINERAL WATER. 

SUPPLIED WITH 



AT 

®1)£ %&v?z&\ Market |£at£#* 

BRANCH STOK.ES : 

Ginza Nichome, Tokyo. Koraibashi-dori Shichome, Osaka. 

A. GEN T S : 

S. TSUCHIYA, R. H. POWERS & CO., 

Motomachi, Kobe. Bund, Nagasaki. 

MORIKAME, KANAMORI, 

Hakodate. Hakodate. 

Household Stores and Family Groceries of every Description. Pass- 
Books furnished, and accounts made up monthly. We make a specialty 
of Selecting, Packing and Forwarding Stores suitable for Travellers Visit- 
ing the Interior and for Country trips. Unused Stores credited when 
returned in sound condition. 

Tourists visiting Japan will be introduced to the best class of Japanese 
Merchants who deal in Silk Manufactures, Curios, &c, &c. 



Advertisements. 



37 



!♦ dforiumr & 00, 



M%,M' 



fi&IOic 



AND 



tMttt Jtodptt; 



LEADING HOUSE FOR MANILA CIGARS. 



In stack Every class of Previsions suitable far 
Travellers, including 

Huntley and Palmer's Biscuits, Bovril, Lieblgs, Potted 

Meats, Cocoatina, Chocolate Menier, 

Preserved and Dried Fruits. 



J. CURNOW & Co., 

(OPPOSITE CORNER TO KELLY & WALSH, L'D.) 

No. **3, Main (Street, Yokohama. 



Advertisements. 



ESTABLISHED A M» R. W. BORTHWICK, 

1£63, rawk E&k bBX&B Jfbk Manager. 



^t %3k A HI /I MAN 

^ (LIMITED) ^Jr ^ 

^^ BRITISH AND FOREIGN 1l ^^% 

CHEMISTS y 




NO. 79. Ml STREET, YOKOHAMA. NO. 79. 



(^%T'Ci\XVi&t J & and others will find in this the oldest established Phar- 

! |||) macy in Japan, Patent Medicines, Proprietary Articles, Medical 

and Toi'et Requisites of every description, 

AT LOWEST POSSIBLE PRICES. 



0ISPEISI1S DEPARTMENT. 

American, British, French, German, and other Continental Prescriptions 
dispensed with accuracy according to their Respective Pharmacopoeias 

BY 

EXPERIENCED AND QUALIFIED CHEMISTS ONLY. 

Drugs, Chemicals and all Pharmaceutical Products, guaranteed to be 
Pure, Fresh and of Standard Strength. 



HOMCEOPATHIC MEDICINES. 



PERFUMES, TOILET WATERS, SOAPS, POMADES, HAIR WASHES, 

Hot Water Bags, Air Cushions, Sponges, 

Hair, Tooth, Nail, Shaving and Moustache Brashes. 



No. 79. MAIN STREET. No. 79. 



Advertisements, 39 



HINTS TO TOURISTS. 



M&MVM AM'B MAE' J 

SELECT ?4EDICINAL SPECIALITIES. 

Prepared according to Tried and Reliable Formulas Highly recom- 
mended to those travelling in the East. 

RED BARK BSTTE HS. — A charming " Pick-me-up," possesses a pleasant 
bouquet equal to the best cocktail. Acts as an exhilarating, stimulat- 
ing, Aromatic Tonic. 

QUININE AND iRQN TONIC.— Useful in;General Debility, Neuralgia, Malaria, 
loss of appetite. Braces up the system. 

IODISED SARSAPARILLA. -An excellent Blood Purifier. 

ANT! CHOLERA DROPS. — For tne prevention of Cholera and Cure of 
Diarrhoea, Dysentery, Colic, etc. Being in a concentrated form this 
preparation is very convenient for carrying in the pocket. 

ANTI-CHOLERA MIXTURE. — Astringent, Anodyne and Anti-spasmodic, pre- 
pared according to the Board of Health Formula. 

GRAPE SALINE . — ^ n Effervescing Saline Aperient — Pleasant to take — 
Effervescent Carlsbad Salts, Citrate of Magnesia and Sulphate of Soda. 

SEIDL1TZ POWDERS. — Guaranteed to keep in all climates. 

Concentrated Essence of Ginger. Rubini's Essence of Camphor. 

McKesson and Bobbin's Gelatine Coated Pills. 

Burroughs, Wellcome and Coy's Compressed Tabloids. 

Brands Essence of Beef — Essence of Chicken. Liebegs and " Bex" 

Extract of Meat. Valentines Meat Juice. Murdock's Food. 
Anti-mosquito Cones, Eau de Luce, Insect Powder, Anti-mosquito Soap. 



Where so much sickness arises from the drinking of impure waters 

NORTH & RAE'S CELEBRATED AERATED WATERS 

will be found to be unsurpassed for Purity and General Excellence. 

SODA, SELTZER, LEMON SQUASH, MINERAL TONIC, LEMONADE, GINGER BEER, 
ZOLAKONE, GINGER ALE. CHAMPAGNE CIDER. 

No. 79. MAIN STREET. No. 79. 



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